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33d Conaress, ? SENATE. Ex. Doc. )

2d Session.

REPORTS

OF

EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS,

TO

ASCERTAIN THE MOST PRACTICABLE AND ECONOMICAL ROUTE FOR A RAILROAD

FROM THE

MISSISSIPPI RIVER TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

MADE UNDER THE DIRECTION OF THE SECRETARY OF WAR, IN

1853-4,

ACCORDING TO ACTS OF CONGRESS OF MARCH 3, 1853, MAY 31, 1854, AND AUGUST 6, 1854.

~ VOLUME I.

WASHINGTON:

BEVERLEY TUCKER, PRINTER,

1855.

I

Gir eigienlare

«

; 1D ae or Be 3 . iad 4 ip ad - PO cx < : aan i im ds . Th) + y rayne ne ne a i i a ee F 4 Te ine © at

/ -

9 Toe

CONTENTS OF VOLUME I.

REPORT OF THE SECRETARY OF WAR.

EXAMINATION OF THE REPORTS OF THE SEVERAL ROUTES EXPLORED. RAILWAY MEMORANDA,

LETTER OF MAJOR GENERAL THOMAS 8. JESUP.

REPORT OF GOVERNOR I. I. STEVENS.

IN SENATE—Fesruary 24, 1855.

Resolved, That there be printed, for the use of the Senate, ten thousand copies of the several reports of surveys for a rail- road to the Pacific, made under the direction of the Secretary of War; and also of the report of F. W. Lander, civil engineer, of a survey of a railroad route from Puget’s Sound, by Fort Hall and the Great Salt lake, to the Mississippi river; and the report of John C. Frémont, of a route for a railroad from the head-waters of the Arkansas river into the State of California; together with the maps and plates accompanying said reports, necessary to illustrate the same; and that five hundred copies be printed for the use of the Secretary of War, and fifty copies for each of the commanding oflicers engaged in said service.

Attest: ASBURY DICKINS, Secretary.

THIRTY-SECOND CONGRESS, SECOND SESSION—Cuaprer 98.

Sxor. 10. And be it further enacted, That the Secretary of War be, and he is hereby authorized, under the direction of the President of the United States, te employ such portion of the Corps of Topographical Engineers, and such other persons as he may deem necessary, to make such explorations and surveys as he may deem advisable, to ascertain the most practicable and economical route for a railroad from the Mississippi river to the Pacific ocean, and that the sum of one hundred and fifty thousand dollars, or so much thereof as may be necessary, be, and the same is hereby, appropriated out of any money in the treasury not otherwise appropriated, to defray the expense of such explorations and surveys.

Approved March 3, 1853.

THIRTY-THIRD CONGRESS, FIRST SESSION—Cuarrer 60. Appropriation: For deficiencies for the railroad surveys between the Mississippi riyer and the Pacific ocean, forty thousand dollars. Approved May 31, 1854. THIRTY-THIRD CONGRESS, FIRST SESSION—Cuarrer 267. Appropriation: For continuing the explorations and surveys to ascertain the best route for a railway to the Pacific, and for

completing the reports of surveys already made, the sum of one hundred and fifty thousand dollars. Approved August 5, 1854.

Erratoum.—On page 3, report of Secretary of War, for “March 3L” read March 3.

Nore.—In the note to Table A, page 31, report of the Secretary of War, marked thus *, which reads, “These are the esti- mates of the office, those of Governor Stevens having been brought to the same standard of increased cost as the other routes, and his equipment reduced to that of the other routes. His estimates were $117,121,000 and $7,030,000;” the sum of $117,121,000 is the estimate for the whole route from St. Paul to Seattle. From St. Paul to Vancouver the estimate of Governor Stevens is $110,091,000,

INDEX

TO

REPORT OF THE SECRETARY OF WAR AND OFFICE REPORTS.

Contents of volume I -.---- 2-2. 6c oc cen ne conn on iw as on oe nnn wenn nw ne oon enn ns Resolution authorizing printing of reports .--..----------------- ------+ ------ ---- +--+ - -- 2-02 eos ee eee Acts of Congress of March 3, 1853, May 31, 1854, and August 5, 1854, authorizing the surveys and explorations. --.. Note in reference to Governor Stevens’s estimate of cost of road

REPORT OF THE SECRETARY OF WAR.

Provisions under which the explorations and surveys were made-.....--..--------- --+- +--+ +--+ ------ -+-------- General map .----- .----- 2-22 cee n ne ene ee een enn nee nnn nnn cee eee eee cee eee cone eee eens eens General sketch of the country between the Mississippi river and the Pacific ocean..-..----.--------------------- General description of the mountain systems, soil, water, &c., between the Mississippi river and the Pacific ocean -- Remarks upon the several routes -.-. ---- -- ++ «2-0 2-22 1 - ene eee ene nae cee ce nnn wee nen ns eens eee ene Examination of route near the 47th and 49th parallels of north latitude, explored by Governor I. I. Stevens and Captain G. B. McClellan, Corps of Engineers .....----- ..---- ------ ---- ---- ---- = 222 eee ee ene ween enn eee eee Examination of route near the 41st and 42d parallels of north latitude, explored by Captain J. C. Frémont, Captain H. Stansbury, Corps of Topographical Engineers, and Lieutenant E. G. Beckwith, 3d regiment of artillery-.----- Examination of route near the 38th and 39th parallels of north latitude, explored by Captain J. W. Gunnison, Corps of Topographical Engineers; report by Lieutenant E. G. Beckwith, 3d regiment artillery.----.---.------------ Examination of route near the 35th parallel of north latitude, explored by Lieutenant A. W. Whipple, Corps of To- pographical Engineers. --- 20.2. o-oo ww eas wen wenn nn wean enw nw wn ane ewe one nne Examination of route near the 32d parallel of north latitude, explored by Captain John Pope, Lieutenant John G. Parke, and Major William H. Emory, Corps of Topographical Engineers-.....----..------------------------- Examination of extension of route of 32d parallel from the mouth of the Gila to San Francisco, explored by Lieute- nant R. §. Williamson, Corps of Topographical Engineers Remarks in regard to estimates of cost and equated lengths; comparison of results; “the most practicable and economical route,” its characteristics and advantages ,..--. .---.----- .----- ------ eee eee oe = oe ee ee Table showing lengths, sums of ascents and descents, equated lengths, cost, &c., of the several routes-.-.----------

Table of distances of the eastern termini of the routes to the Mississippi river and the principal Atlantic and Gulf ports-

List of documents accompanying Secretary’s report... ---. 2c one. cee ene een e ween cane www ene enone === enn

EXAMINATION OF THE ROUTES BY CAPTAIN A. A. HUMPHREYS AND LIEUTENANT G. K. WARREN, CORPS GRAPHICAL ENGINEERS. :

CHAPTER I.

Route near the 47th and 49th parallels of north latitude.

Considerations determining the general direction of the route ----- Bese COs Cond SSGOU DOSEESOn Emenee cacao eae Examination of route in detail from St. Paul, Mississippi river, to the Missouri river, near Fort Union, (comprising

topographical description, grades, character of work, supplies of building material, fuel, water, &c. ) Examination of route in detail from near Fort Union to the eastern base of the Rocky mountains. .-..-------.---- Water from the Red river of the north to Maria’s river Examination of route in detail from the eastern base of the Rocky mountains to the crossing of the Spokane river-- Description of the passes of the Rocky mountains, and continuation of route through them...--.-.--------------- Description of the passes of the Bitter Root mountains, and continuation of route through them -.-..------------- Examination of route in detail from the crossing of the Spokane river to the crossing of the Columbia river.-.----- Exaniination of route in detail from the crossing of the Columbia river to Puget Sound, by the Yakima Pass. ..---.

230-49

OF

Page. ill iv

TOPO-

39

39, 40 41 AL 41-45 41-43 43-45 45, 46 46

v1 INDEX.

Page Snow upon the Yakima Pass. ...--- ---- ------ --- 2-2 eee nee cee ene eee eee ce ene ee ene cee eee eee eens eee wee 46, 47, 48 Examination of route in detail, from the crossing of the Columbia to Puget Sound, by the pass of the Columbia river. 48 Motal length of the TOUtO-=<-s00ccmcejcane cee -orelcee =n maw= =eomnew wee nann ses seeleee-== s=~e= se aeeenmae=e=e=ss 49 1 bd ee ee eee a eee 2 Bo Bs, 4 ree te eR ei a Fo ne yt I nS 49, 50,51 Pel Ct: ee Se et a a a a et a en te es Pe yer = see 55 51, 52, 53 Glidractoriatios OF tlle ZOUtO}=.5-- peceen pact ccec ces cern mop eseenes monn anlenen emn™ ete aaa emma ee een eter 53, 54 General jelevatiOUs> os =~ cac- ose wict essa cee ces chee es osname bch ealebe aan e sea peceinbes none elle n= ann nee nee 53 Sim (of @scente ADC GESCONUE, GoCrec coe oe ce ow eee cee ope ese eee = bo nei sinnele'sle'g= = le == =m en mim se een emme 53, 54 MMP Gleseees eons cecees acco pecs satan eee eee a ae ee eels eae ee alee ee atin el none 54 GL eae oro ccc c Sooo ak ceo acac cutee cus wereas See Deter arc a esen inte mse ae meme eee = a eam ail nl te 54 CHOTA CS ESERIES AIOE ISEES BOSS STS CODD DOOR SECO ER Ig DIOS GEES PSS Oe OHO Te ies ee nas ets elma tN emis meres 55 Estimated cost of road, with remarks.... .--- .-- 2-220 ceo s0 enc eee cocoa BESo On “ha enaoaasooouS soe see ee 55 CHAPTER II. Route near the forty-first and forty-second parallels of north latitude. General description of the route from the Missouri river to Fort Bridger, on a tributary of Green river -----. ------ 56 Examination of route in detail from the Missouri river to Fort Bridger, (comprising topographical description, grades, character of work, supplies of building material, fuel, water, snow, estimate of cost, &c).--..--.-------- 56, 57 Examination of route in detail from Fort Bridger, through the Wahsatch mountains, to the south end of the Great SRA A he cee on Oe HIB ASeSe Sac SOO SESO CSS EE OOOSSe | ARDIESS A poo SECU OS Seco OSS SOS bese aes aS Sass Caco 57,58 General description of the Great Basin near the latitudes of 41° and 42°...-..----. .----- ---- ----- +--+ +----- +--+ 58, 59 Examination of route in detail from the south end of the Great Salt lake to the foot of the eastern slope of the Sierra IEC Re os e585 SOE Deg DOOR EDI SDS SS SISE o SEOs SSCS S00 Se SS ISSO BOSS DOS DOSESO DOSSIEOBSSSNNS pooseasese 59 Plateau of the Sierra Nevada 59, 60 Examination of the Madeliu Pass from the eastern foot of the Sierra Nevada to Round Valley, on the Sacramento PIV Olan oe ees eciee eee nee e heme SE an ape ee ae tae aaa a eae ee ee le eae ee le ed eae 5 60 Examination of route in detail along the Sacramento river from Round Valley to 18 miles above Fort Reading.-.-.. 60 Detailed description of the Sacramento river through the mountain district....-.-.---------------------. See 61 Total length of the route... . -... 2-2-2 oe. one ee ese w coe men cow ene mown ane oem wens enn n enemas sone man w nna e= 62 Timber, building materials, &c...--- 20. -2- = cone woe ane one conn e conn we ern en nn wees wenn sews con oe= ences o==s 62 100 CARRS Bs Oe ec Seto SOUS Ee oe BOC DCO ESAS ECO IE CORD OSD OC OOD C55 SI9> OSE oS So Neon pose Sere ose 62 Snow, climate, and 3vater.- <<. oes oo eae omen me biinn- anne == oan SERA 0 aS ADE SC IIIS DORE SOUS OOOO 62, 63, 64 i a= sat cece ceeds cae - eo REISS ODOC SN Gy scne SEECSN ooo oe Sa sane se cose secon rene ee esas one e eee 64, 65 atMALe OL PLODADe CORLIOL TORO naman. amc on - aismnemelaemnite mimes ine ieee lane mean eae la ne =i Seer eee 65, 66 Characteristic features of the voute > ec se anes oem slattee hate ccitecicinceeeninn nm callaen iss wina-lecee==leere= elves 66 Sum of ascents and descents. (See table, page 107.) Supplement to the examination— Description of the Rocky Mountain plateau on the route...--.. .--.---.-----------0+-- ate pore 36 ae 66, 67 Description of the country east of the plateau, to the Mississippi river ....-..----- .--..----- ---+ seen eee 4 67, 68 Description of the route from the Missouri river to Fort Bridger, by the South Pass.......----.- Se) eae 68, 69 Ditto by Bridgotis Pasisos. coos oo one nite oan). oe bee aoe eeeds Joe eceeeek Lone eee * 69, 70 Lengths; sumsjor ascents and: descents; (850... no sctwte ww cos 4 = <ehenlea an wcen lac neue beeees ieee ae 5ieaee 70 Connexion of the South Pass with the head-waters of Green river, and connexion with the Columbia river.... 70 CHAPTER II. Route near the thirty-cighth and thirty-ninth parallels of north latitude. General considerations determining the position of the route..--.. ---. ---. --- 2+ 222 ene wen wen ween ene n nee wee * 71 Features of the country from the Rocky mountains to the Great Basin .,..----.----- e202 222 eens ween eee oe _ 71 [CPE LT Gas se eects Seo Deeigeor oped seec a -eategd tessa oo soda eseecoos scat eae 71 Timber, building materials, &c.-.---..---.--- Stebdcecssahcess ae ee eee Se ee PE ee * file BOi se anysa cow ean sae ebocte nada et dates ta sce ches Duce ten See tie See eRe eres <etee Pilea eee er ene S066 71,72 CORI. 225 oon dinden cote een ose anse BONO a SOI RS PIC Ie AR SOON eens mace cios = 72 Elevations of the Rocky Mountain passes, grades, tunnels, and construction of the road from the Coo-che-to-pa Pass, in the Rocky mountains, to Sevier lake, in the Great Basin. -......---.-------- ---- 200+ --------- Ween abkteoe ces 72 ABU UO OL LOU ecein tee aie na eates akan cieneeleauEemicse seas toate tenons «ee aes Cee e ere spe edieee tock Societe = 72 Sum of ascents and descents........-....----..2---.----- RO ETE eT hee 3 ele Ledeseewarmbesenss cos uses 72 Examination of route in detail from the western foot of the Wahsatch mountains to San Francisco by the Tay-ee- chay-pah Pass, in latitude 35°, and by the Madelin Pass; lengths, sums of ascents and descents, and position and length of the shortest line from St. Louis to San Francisco...... se ccev decnve cnacavavencsndewsecnce cunsus uses 73

INDEX. vil

CHAPTER IV.

Route near the thirtyfifth parallel of north latitude.

Page.

Considerations determining the general position of the route ..---. ---.------ ------ 2222 e222 ween e wee eee eee 74 Description of the route, distances and elevations, tunnel in Cajon Pass, &¢ --.------------------0 +--+ +--+ ------ 74,75 (BATE) cope eon On CEC O CE SE SD OSS E SD SEDO SOC E OOS Br CSCO BOROO0 SSC 50e HEC OCD POS ROE EOOUINS=5 OS D200 CSE DOO DCS paar 75 giles ek ee eee eee Lt See ee Rete at Sue chee eee se MNES Ne, bs SSS Sas Mee uae 75, 76 Building material... 2. - 0% 6.205 2205 cone meen e eee s wee nn = ne enn ann = awn nn nnn ce ene mann nnn nee eee nnn 76 LUG -ceceas necdecoupeancoton.pouens cscosechos bdce de 5e50 Sdccosenbcos udetacosdccantasbcnpede nocopedonecebces 77 VWI? o esc enccbocose. conse CHUL ene dodenCOSe 5 Sncody ess acrioSsscoce cecebac 0 cens Hasse DSceacnsocSo soca casos 77 Elevations, sum of ascents and descents, lengths, &¢...----.----. +++ +-----+ e222 + 22-2 eee ee beens ween eee eee 17,78 Estimated cost, with remarks. .--...-.- one ee eee cen nee eee cee cent nee eee eens eens cece ee eee eee 78

CHAPTER V. Route near the thirty-fifth parallel of north latitude. 1h 1nnrn May Saye UNE LT) (CRETE) eos ested csOs0d SASSO OSHS DED OSONEIDSSS Soon Sooo reso Cncoss soso nncces 79-81 Examination of route in detail from Fulton to the Llano Estacado, (comprising topographical description,

Grades; Dulldmprmavenials;<tWely WaAcels OCs) letra alele sete ala lett ttre alet stearate a ei fe tell 79 Westward extension of fertile soiliin this latitud@=-5. «s< ++ o)-one eae ots een cates cer eeeres eeee cies eee 79 Construction across the Llano Estacado, water, ties, lumber, fuel, &c.-----..-. ..-.------------ eee eee eee 79, 80 Construction from the Pecos river to the Rio Grande, and Guadalupe Pass, water, ties, lumber, fuel.......-- 80 Bnildinoystone tomy eduriver to kioy Gtande, tise ='efasale(leete seis) ecln «lm eniela amine = aie) = tees sete ee ae eee et 80, 81 OEY pores acto toto Siem Cond Heao cnoO OSES can cheb eatin cots wens cosa cea boa ease cabo coon SSSA coeds rane aoas 8L General characteristics of this portion of the route, and elevations .----...-.-.----.----.---------------- 81 Remarks upon the estimated cost of construction...-. ~~... .. 2. os eee. cece we coe eee one n ns anon os === 81

irom) the Rio Grande tothe mouth of the Gila. soo - oo. ce came neces weewes saewe nen ee womens sos secs 81-86 General description of the country between Dona Ana, on the Rio Grande, and the Pimas villages, on the Gila—

PROMO! Ue Oe, CleranOn, Hani Gsf CaChoseneseccs Sono Oee OOS BECHOS SEpnSS poSSon CHSeSo eer eacansEces 81, 82 UWRO Gi Rigg; NALIRT GATE cos Bho pono SSSI RSD EEO PSCd SEEC CODE DESC SOOO RBH ESO OODEOS Ere Seossetjoase sees 82 Routesalongy wero) Grand ensestemeectesee sales acsmisn aloes s\mecats reiseeten sail siaiaietesie eels sei ine ieee ayeeiate 82 LEATI EGG GE) o-oo Geibenn poco oenenSneennooScs 6606 orise RSOCUT BOS SCD OOo SES HOS HESIBEHe Sco asad ooSeae 82, 83 \NGIOP 2 osee besSco SS COSO GOB SECBHOS SOS ADSOBHOOS S505 ID ISOSSS boTd HOCOUS aseceo Hd cos Sses HeSsHSsbase 83, 84, 85 LOGI cecocoscosecosce SD SOCO SSS SSS ASC GSS HOSSSO SogtioS SEeSHO SoSoRSoSoO HES TESS oOoHEDS pboSes coeeeSeS neo 85 Peculiar features of the country favoring the cheap construction of a railroad...--....---..---.----------- 85 Examination of the route in detail from the Pimas villages, along the Gila to the Colorado river. 2... .--.---- 86

EEE ——Hromathe mouth oruhe Gila, toiSanMtanciseOs 2\22c0 ence cee =\ecoalecme en eeewcectec cus cicueseeeececeaeeeee 86-94 Examination of the route in detail from the mouth of the Gila to the eastern entrance of the San Gorgonio

Pass, passes of the coast range, Colorado desert, construction, water, soil, distances, grades..-- ---.------ 86 San GorgoniovPass—natural crades:—-sdat- sos sacs on seek we ene das Seiceve se oesew wats sseadle secciew Se eniccee 87 Connection with San Diego; with San Pedro; their harbors. ....-<.-.. 222 -06- ---2 onee ee cone cee nne ease 87 Continuation of detailed examination of the route to San Francisco..-.-.---------.---- ------ --- 2 = eee ee 87 Passes through the coast range, by which the Great Basin may be attained from the plains of Los Angeles, and

Rel Genomontneen GWrLasBwnsecat ies saeic ies ace aeaie ene mim aes enaigeesac Saas comenmEecisine mew sjeaer 87,88 Continuation of the route from San Gorgonio Pass to the Great Basin........---- ------ eee eee ween ee eens 88 Passes from the Great Basin to the head of the Tulares Valley----.----- ------ e--ene --ne ween ne cen ene enne 88, 89 Superiority of the Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass -.-..----. SOBRE C CONS ECE OC ERO DEO EE CoC EE SSS BDECOC EARS RASS anced 89 Continuation of the route in the Great Basin, and to the Tulares Valley..--...---.---------- ---------+ eos 89 Continuation of the route along the Tulares and San Joaquin Valleys, to the Straits of Martinez. ..---..----- 89, 90 More direct route to San Francisco by the San José Valley ---.-----.---.---.----- Postecneceser ase sade 90 Soil, building materials, fuel, water, sum of ascents and descents, lengths, &e 90 Characteristic features of this portion of the route, the mountain passes and their character; use of steep

CREGIEE 2 dace: CaSO Sag OOOC TENDS DUO CRE ED RE SO EO NES GOCE CECB REARS ECE rE Ee Cra Reman eae 90, 9L Extract from the report of Allan Campbell, esq., chief engineer of the Valparaiso and Santiago railroad, in

win ChiatheylEenbyech On, steep! piad esis dISCURBEd perce ee aeas aaa econ see ee eae scrcececdeerece=seces 91-94 Application of this discussion to the natural grades in the mountain passes of this route near the thirty-second

HOLA GM emma emicinices ssc cincc Soe soaestalcac'sice soos Qroseoceo occnsoncence cogase copteceadecac nose 94 Snow and ice on the Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass, and on the route generally...----. .----. 2020+ s-e--- eeeeee eee 94 General review of the whole route. .....-...----- e222 ----00 ceeeee saigaccvocecsssc cen se casaecoos oes ns ae 94-99

General considerations which determine the position of the route; its characteristics; elevations of its mountain passes, and general elevation; peculiar features of the arid plains favorable to cheap construction of road; water, and cost of carrying it.......-.--. aes Peweusyscesis cas beiewaniesbajesestacmaesanreeas ndamoaCooC! 94,95

Vill INDEX.

Ties and lumber for the whole route.-..-.....------ ------ -----+ -----0-- ARS ABnc seni SacBee

Fuel for the whole route, and its proportionate yearly cost on railroads-..--...----- ----+. -----+-----+ --- Navication of the: Colorado T1VON~ «0m => nee cecien en monseneg ence + -= sh vonsinennlquveuylea= ==> sae ==—Fieme =

Daily inspection of the road and stations -.-.. .----- --- e202 enn eee ee eens nee eens ere wenn eens Solon the wholenronte:-scsenc ee marie ese peeean none oer en oe a Sew ines ee ee eee eee eee General advantages of the route in soil, productiohs, population, surface, mountain passes, and climate....--------- Estimate of cost of construction...--. ..---- ------ 22-2 eee e ne conn ne eee eee won cen ones one wee nne =e soss-t Business of the road; earnings; cost of working; Massachusetts roads; New York roads---.----.-------- aoss55- Comparison of the routes, showing the advantages and disadvantages of each; and explanation of the table of lengths, @istances, &c., LOllOWING-- << 6-65 cow e cone cee ew ene w ew ees se een === wees ==se senses cawel>===s=5= Seana eee

Table showing the lengths, sum of ascents and descents, &c., &ce., of routes explored........----.-----+-.------ Table of distances from the eastern termini of the routes to the Mississippi river and the principal Atlantic and Gulf POTTS. «2 ewe we nee eee ene ween eee ee wens teen ween ne ne Ft we ene cee ee wenn cern ween ween e eee cee wee wane

CHAPTER VI.

Notes on the characteristics of the route from Independence to Santa Fé..... .----- -----+ ---- eee eee eee nn eee ee

Notes on the characteristics of the route from Indianola, via San Antonio, to El Paso...-..-.-...---.------------ MEMORANDA ON RAILWAYS BY BREVET CAPTAIN GEORGE B. MC’CLELLAN.

Letter to Secretary of War..--.. .-.. ----- 2-2-2 20 - e one come ne een e- =n 00 oe aaancos Seceinooraissace sesose onc Gradients.---- EE es Fe Reece tee (ecco nite ma atemoccalee Rosa Beco bSasee wt Oba wceossoees ae ee 5 Formule. .--.-- ee eee naan oe eoiercinn waleeels ete etnies = =i nia OS SSeees > Sone ceases eee (Chin GS-23 one oc co banesD Does OBOE EOD SURGES SOE CCISONSes Croc Seeemeson fosdosss oe dos eee teee re eee WOnBtIUCHON Sse e eo. ooo mee canna w pec ene wens canaleewaursuves=(o====a\e=—=ssiob= OP Pe oe eee eS Weights, cost, S&0.-- 220 20. sees comm nw cere enn e monn en ce== ena wise ES i Eee es IBYId 208: caer nce es om cnienoelene= ceneictbe me slonevloweeas ces ee als =sim~nleneemelom=le== Sinn oman en == m= == alan eee iWiaterandiiiel Spe: exten ger oe corer oat Cacbe~faee ect s/o Lee Sanne eee oes SRapos OeSe SS cenbass6 a5555 Statistics of various railroads... -...----.------------- Semel otststs elale staf alatetete cia natal tates BoeSonccnc aches Characteristics and cost of six railways... .---2- co0e cee cen nne cower e conn cas ene eens ene ene wenn ne wane we Depots, & 6.2202. cence enn cower cence ween sewer e corn ns nn wen ewes eee Sag dodeoo Sasasoosos soso sesssocesae Repairs and inspection of track.c.--- e-c--0 cone eee ee ene eens enn eee ene n wee ene wee cone none coe e ww cn cnne Wonue Bee seer ce cere tees < acces ch menccns sacees eennine smten= === pene hh em ee eiiee melee aia 4925239. 5555055=5 . Table showing comparative lengths of some of the largest tunnels. ---------. ---------------- +----+-----+------ IR hoc S26 Sep en oe tees Oe Se PD ECO SEO SISSIES 59 SS BOSS SSS S09 DOSS Eanes oo SSE OSIOSSS DDR UTE See ce ssenasaneuoeS Sac Gaatoaennsco nace sece Rode oso see os 2085 sSsacseaass Socosos5 8505500 Cattle, &c..---.-... Peouee Ceo smoconece sao SSO 0020 Saponses SSO OF Sossoasss505°

REPORT OF GENERAL JESUP.

Cost of transporting troops and supplies to California, Oregon, New Mexico, &C..--++ 2200 e0-2ee enn nne eenne wees

97 97,98

98 98, 99 99-104

104-106 107

108

109, 110 110, 111

115 115 116-119 119 119 120 120, 121 121, 122 122, 123 123-125 125, 126 126 126-129 129 130 130 130

183, 134

REPORT

OF

Pitts ek hb ARY OF WAR

ON THE

SEVERAL RAILROAD EXPLORATIONS.

‘4 es

eT oe ot oi tt6 i | J. ). (ie Siw i | REI | gy!

Be ae emeete” Yih i ier .

pea jars Te es ~ rs

. ‘. ‘, 2. 7 : a. —_ ban - . — 5 7 ai sh 7 “ ate. - 7 “us *~ _ 7 aes. ae

REPORT OF°THE SECRETARY OF WAR.

War DEPARTMENT, Washington, February 27, 1855.

Str: I have the honor, in obedience to the provisions of the 11th section of the army appro- priation act, approved March 31, 1858, to lay before Congress printed reports of the engineers employed under the provisions of that act to make such explorations and surveys as this department might,deem advisable, in order to ascertain the most practicable and economical route for a railroad from the Mississippi river to the Pacific ocean.

The great amount of labor required in the preparation of the general map, originally de- signed to accompany this report, and the unfinished condition of the original maps and other data, have delayed its completion beyond the period anticipated, but it is confidently believed that its engraving will be finished in time to accompany the extra copies of the report ordered by the two houses of Congress. It embraces the territory of the United States between the great lakes and the Mississippi river, on the east, and the Pacific ocean on the west. It is based upon the most reliable astronomical data within those limits; and the details having been compiled with care, from all the government explorations and surveys and other reliable authorities, it will present more minute information upon the region embraced by it than has heretofore been exhibited on any general map. It will show the relation to each other of the different railroad routes recently explored, their connexions with prominent points on Lakes Superior and Michigan, the Mississippi river and the Gulf of Mexico, and with the ports of the Pacific ; and, exhibiting only such features as have been determined by reliable observers, it will be of great value in showing what further explorations are necessary, and in determining their direction and extent.

I have heretofore reported the nature of the explorations and surveys ordered in compliance with this act ; and by a reference to the statements there made, it will be seen that in order to accomplish as much as possible within the limited period indicated, not only were there as many distinct corps employed as there were routes to be surveyed, but several parties were, in some cases, employed upon different sections of the same route. It appears, therefore, necessary, in submitting these several reports, many of which are quite voluminous and in detached parts, to present a general recapitulation of their results, indicating those distinguishing characteristics, the comparison of which will determine which of the routes surveyed best fulfils the condition of practicability and economy proposed by the act.

I will here repeat the general sketch of the country given in my first annual report, but corrected in accordance with the results of the recent explorations. This will serve, in the absence of a more elaborate description, to give some general idea of the nature of the country over which they extended.

‘The western portion of the continent of North America, irrespective of the mountains, is traversed from north to south by a broad, elevated swell or plateau of land, which occupies the greater portion of the whole space between the Mississippi river and the Pacific ocean. The crest of this plateau, or the water-shed of the country, is nearly midway between the Pacific coast and the Mississippi. It may be represented on the map by an undulating line traced

4 MOUNTAIN SYSTEMS.

between the headwaters of the streams which flow eastward and those which flow westward. It divides the whole area between the Mississippi and the Pacific into two nearly equal portions—that on the east being somewhat the larger. This crest of the water-shed has its greatest elevation in Mexico; and thence declines to its lowest point about the latitude of 32°, where it has a height of about 5,200 feet, between the waters of the Rio Grande and those of the San Pedro, a tributary of the Gila. From this parallel it increases in altitude north- ward, and reaches its maximum near the 38th parallel, where it is about 10,000 feet high. Thence it declines as we pass northward; and, in latitude 42° 24’, it has an elevation of, say, 7,490 feet; and in the latitude of about 47° it is reported to be at least 1,450 feet lower. The heights here given are those of the lowest passes over the crest or water-shed of the great plateau of the country, and not those of the mountain peaks and ridges which have their base upon it, and rise, in some cases, to the height of 17,000 feet into the region of perpetual snow. :

The slope of the plateau on the east and south, towards the Mississippi and the Gulf of Mexico, is comparatively gentle, and in the northern part of Texas, that known by the name of the Llano Estacado, or Staked Plain, is by steps. It is traversed by the Missouri, the Platte, the Arkansas, and other large rivers, which rise among the mountains near the crest, and flow eastward and southward in channels sunk beneath the general surface-level of the — plains.

Its crest, and nearly the entire distance thence to the Pacific, is occupied by high plains or basins, differing from each other in elevation from 1,000 to 3,000 feet, and by mountain peaks

_ and ridges, varying in direction to almost every point of the compass, though they have a general course north and south. Many of these mountains, including those that bound this system, have obtained the name of chains, and a short classification of them will now be attempted, although it is to be premised that our knowledge of them is most imperfect, and the classification now made, future explorations will probably show to be erroneous. The only proper classification must be made by the geologist, after a thorough exploration for this purpose, which it will require a long period to accomplish.

These mountains may be considered as constituting three great systems, extending gen- erally throughout our possessions in a north and south direction; and though this arrange- ment may not be the best or most accurate, yet it will enable us to take a comprehensive view of the whole as regards the construction of a railroad, since any direct line that can be traced from the Mississippi to the Pacific, except near the 48th and 32d parallels, will encounter each of these three systems in some point.

Calling the most eastern system No. 1, we find a portion of it, crossing the Rio Grande, and entering Texas at the Great Cation. Its extension south into Mexico forms the east front of the Sierra Madre. Running northward, this system includes all the mountains on either side of the Rio Grande, enclosing its valley and the Salinas Basin. Those on the east form the divide between the Pecos and Salinas Basin, and between the Rio Grande

ond Canadian; on the west they divide the waters of the Rio Grande from those that flow to the Gulf of California. Those on the east are sometimes called the Rocky mountains, some- times the Sierra Madre; and this last name is sometimes applied to those on the west. There seems to be a necessity for considering the mountains on both sides of the Rio Grande as one system, ‘These may be said to unite near the headwaters of the Rio Grande and Arkansas, and here the mountains have their greatest development. The Sierra de la Plata extends to the southwest, the Elk mountains to the west, and the various chains forming the Park mountains to the north, The Park mountains, in latitude 41° 80/, sink into the plateau, forming the region of the South Pass; and the only continuation we have of this system is in the Black Hills, which continue to the north, with diminished elevation, till, in latitude 46° 15', they are merggd into the coteau through which the Upper Missouri makes its passage. mong the mountains included in this system are the Sierra Madre, a portion of what is called the Rocky mountains, the Diabolo mountains, the Guadalupe mountains, Hueco mount-

4,

MOUNTAIN SYSTEMS, 5

ains, Organ mountains, Sandia mountains, Santa Ie mountains, Sierra Blanea, Sierra Mojada, Sierra San Juan, Sierra de la Plata, Elk mountains, Park mountains, Medicine Bow mount- ains, and Black Hills.

System No. 1 is thus but partially gorged by the Rio Grande, whose passage of the Great Caiion is wholly impracticable for any method of communication ; that of El Paso is practi- cable. It is completely cut through by the North Platte and Sweet Water, forming a prac- ticable route; and is turned by the Upper Missouri.

Low mountains or hills are known to exist between the Black Hills and the Wind River chain, about the headwaters of the Yellowstone and Missouri; but this region is too little known to be treated of with confidence, and may have a decided effect in modifying this classi- fication.

System No. 2. If, from the Great Northern Bend of the Missouri, we travel west for 450 miles, we come again upon what are called the Rocky mountains; and still further west lies the Ceeur d’ Alene, or Bitter Root range, the two enclosing the Bitter Root or St. Mary’s valley; and both are considered as forming a part of this system, Following it to the south,

it includes the Wind River chain, the Bear mountains, the Uinta mountains, and the Wahsatch, which last continue as far south as it has been explored, probably forming the divide between the Great Basin and the Colorado, till the junction of the latter with the Gila. System No. 3. From the junction of the Gila and Colorado, we find continuous mountains

running to the northwest, and terminating at Point Conception, on the Pacific. On the

south they are joined by the mountains forming the peninsula of California, the junction being at the San Gorgonio Pass, in latitude 33° 45’.

On the north, two chains leave this range in latitude 35°. One, called the Coast range and Coast mountains, lies to the west of the San Joaquin and Sacramento valleys, the waters of which break through them at the Bay of San Francisco. The other, called the Sierra Nevada, lies to the east of these valleys. A great depression, forming a plateau, is known to exist in the Sierra Nevada in latitude 40° 30’, and another in latitude 42° 45’, near Lake Abert. This chain may, perhaps, be considered as terminating at or in these plateaus, or to find its con- tinuation in the Cascade or Coast range, which extend into the British possessions, being broken through by the Columbia and partly by the Klamath rivers.

The Blue mountains, to the south of the Columbia, represented as having a general north- east direction, may be considered, along with the mountains mentioned since leaving the Colorado, as forming system No. 3.

The Humboldt River chain, running north and south, (where crossed,) and separating the waters of the Humboldt or Mary’s river from those of the Great Salt Lake Basin, is a marked feature; but as to its connexion, north and south, with other ranges, nothing is certain.

There seem good reasons for believing that the east and west ranges, represented as sepa- rating the Columbia River basin from the Great Basin, as well as the range represented as extending west from the Vegas of Santa Clara, are only apparently such, the deception arising from the overlapping of the side spurs to chains, the general direction of which is north and south,

The ‘triangular space’ lying between the Rio Grande, Gila, and Colorado, is everywhere, so far as known, exceedingly mountainous; the ranges, such as the Mogollon and San J’ran- cisco mountains, having a general northwest direction, Too broad an interval exists between the explorations of Lieutenant Whipple and those of Captain Gunnison, to enable us to speak with certainty of their relation to the systems already alluded to.

In portions of the mountain region, the waters find no outlet to the sea, but drain into —

lakes and ponds, or sinks, carrying with them all the impurities of the basins to which they belong, and are there uniformly brackish or very salt. Prominent examples of this are the Salinas Basin, of New Mexico, and the Great Salt Lake Basin in Utah. aa

6 ‘MOUNTAIN SYSTEMS.

From most portions of this interior mountain belt, the waters have been able to force their barriers and escape to the ocean. The valleys thus drained are, those of the southern tributaries of the Upper Missouri, that of the North Fork of the Platte, and its tributary the Sweet Water, between the first and second systems; that of the U,per Rio Grande del Norte, in the first system ; that of the Great Colorado of the West and its tributaries, between the first and second systems ; those of the waters of the Bay of San Francisco and of the Klamath river, in the third system; and that of the Columbia river and its tributaries, between the second and third systems. Some of these streams, as well as others in the enclosed basins, have in places worn for themselves, through the solid rock, the most stupendous chasms or cafions, often 2,000 feet in vertical height, many of which it is imposs.ble to follow or to cross.

The position of this belt of mountain region, stretching from north to south, gives rise to a peculiarity of climate and soil. Fertility depends principally upon the degree of temperature and amount of moisture, both of which are much affected by increase of elevation; and the latter also depends on the direction of the wind. The upper or return current of the trade- wind, flowing backward towards the northeast, gives a prevalence of westerly winds in the north temperate zone, which tends to spread the moisture from the Pacific over the western portion of our continent. These winds, however, ascending the western slope of the mountain ridges, are deprived of their*moisture by the diminished temperature of the increased elevation ; and hence it is that the plains and valleys on the eastern side of the ridges are generally parched and barren, and that the mountain system, as a whole, presenting, as it were, a screen against the moisture with which the winds from the west come laden, has for its eastern margin a sterile belt, which probably extends along the whole range, with a width varying from 250 to 300 and 400 miles.

From the foregoing sketch it will be perceived that the lines of exploration must traverse three different divisions or regions of country lying parallel to each other, and extending north and south through the whole of the western possessions of the United States. The first is that of the country between the Mississippi and the eastern edge of the sterile belt, having a varying width of from 500 to 600 miles. The second is the sterile region, varying in width from 200 to 400 miles ; and the third, the mountain region, having a breadth of from 500 to 900 miles.

Explorations show that the surface of the first division, with few exceptions, rises in gentle slopes from the Mississippi to its western boundary, at the rate of about six feet to the mile, and that it offers no material obstacle to the construction of a railroad. It is, therefore, west of this that the difficulties are to be overcome.

The concurring testimony uf reliable observers had indicated that the second division, or that called the sterile region, was so inferior in vegetation and character of soil, and so deficient in moisture, that it had received, and probably deserved, the name of the desert. This opinion is confirmed by the results of the recent explorations, which prove that the soil of the greater part of this region is, from its constituent parts, necessarily sterile; and that of the remaining part, although well constituted for fertility, is, from the absence of rains at. certain seasons, except where capable of irrigation, as uncultivable and unproductive as the other.

This general character of extreme sterility likewise belongs to the country embraced in the mountain region, From the western slopes of the Rocky mountains to the 112th meridian, or the western limit of the basin of the Colorado, the soil generally is of the same formation as

at lying east of that mountain crest, mixed, in the latitudes of 35° and 32°, with igneous rocks; and the region being one of great aridity, especially in the summer, the areas of cultivable land are limited. The western slopes of the highest mountain chains and spurs within this region being of a constitution favorable to fertility, and receiving much larger depositions of rain than the plains, have frequently in their small valleys a luxuriant growth of grasses, which sometimes clothes the mountain-sides; and where the wash is deposited on mountain stream or river-bottom the soil is fertile, and can be cultivated, if the elevations are not too great, and the means of irrigation available. Such mountain-valleys and river-bottoms

4

EXAMINATION OF THE ROUTES. - 7

exist upon all the routes, and the difference in the areas found in the different latitudes is not sufficiently great to be of any considerable weight in determining the question of choice of route. It is probable that all the routes are nearly on an equality in this respect.

The cultivable valleys of the Rocky mountain district near the route of the 47th parallel do not probably exceed an area of 1,000 square miles, though there are extensive tracts of fine grazing lands. In this latitude the great sterile basaltic plain of the Columbia, and the barren table-lands, spurs, and mountain masses of the Cascade range, principally occupy the space between the Coeur d’ Alene mountains and the main chain of the Cascade system. In this area, where the rocks are principally of igneous origin, there are likewise occasional valleys of culti- vable soil. The western slopes of the Cascade mountains descend to the borders of Puget sound,

On the routes of the 41st and 38th parallels, in the region under consideration, the only large body of soil capable of productive cultivation, by the construction of suitable works for irrigation, is that of the basin of the Great Salt lake, estimated to be 1,108 square miles in extent, about one-tenth part of which, being susceptible of cultivation without the construc- tion of irrigating canals, is now cultivated by the Mormons. Here also are extensive grazing lands.

The great elevated plain of the Rocky mountains in latitudes 41° and 42°, and that of latitude

38°, called the San Luis valley, are covered with wild sage, the narrow border of grass found upon the streams being the chief, almost only, production capable of supporting animal life. The slopes of the mountains bounding them are covered with grass. ‘ The plains of the Great Basin, whose greatest width (500 miles) is in latitude 41°, are, with the exception heretofore stated, entirely sterile, and either bare or imperfectly covered with a scattered growth of wild sage. Where a stream or lake is found in this desolate region, its immediate borders generally support a narrow belt of grass and willows; the former being also found on the mountain slopes, where occasionally a scattered growth of stunted cedars is like- wise seen. Water is found on the mountain-side. The predominating rocks, from the Wahsatch mountains to the Sierra Nevada, are of igneous origin. Inthe southern portion of the Basin the granitic rocks are more abundant than the volcanic.

On the routes of the parallels of 35° and 32° the valleys of the Pecos, Rio Grande, Gila, and Colorado of the West, contain the largest areas of fertile soil capable of irrigation and cultiva- tion. That in New Mexico is estimated at 700 square miles, exclusive of the regions occupied by Indians, of which 200 square miles are now under cultivation. Here the grazing land is of very great extent, the table-lands, as well as the mountain-sides, being covered with grass. The valley of the Colorado of the West, between its mouth and the 35th parallel, contains 1,600 square miles of fertile soil, which can be irrigated from the river.

The plains south of the Gila in its lower course, and that west of the Colorado, extending to the Coast range, called the Colorado desert, as well as the contiguous portion of the Great Basin, are bare and exceedingly sterile in their aspect, and closely resemble each other. The soil of the Colorado desert, and much of this as well as other parts of the Great Basin, is, how- ever, favorably constituted for fertility, but the absence of the essential, quickening element, water, leaves them utterly unproductive.

West of the Coast, Sierra Nevada, and Cascade mountains the country is better watered than that just considered; and the soil being mostly well constituted for fertility, is productive in proportion to the yearly amount of precipitation and the means of irrigation.

The general position and direction of the four routes to be explored were explained in my report of December 1, 1853, and copies of the instructions given to the parties were appended to it.

They were directed to observe and note all the objects and phenomena which have an im- mediate or remote bearing upon the railway, or which might seem to develop the resources, peculiarities, and climate of the country; to determine geographical positions, obtain the topo- graphy, observe the meteorology, including the data for barometric profiles, and two of the

8 ROUTE NEAR THE FORTY-SEVENTH AND FORTY-NINTH PARALLELS.

parties were to determine the direction and intensity of the magnetic foree. They were to make a geological survey of the lines; to collect information upon, and specimens of, the botany and zoology of the country; and to obtain statistics of the Indian tribes which are found in the regions traversed. Thus would be obtained all the information for the general consideration of the question, as well as the data upon which the cost of construction and working a railroad depend.

If the results of the explorations made under these instructions do not furnish the data requi- site to solve every question satisfactorily, they at least give a large amount of valuable in- formation, and place the question in a tolerably clear light. We see now, with some precision, the nature and extent of the difficulties to be encountered, and, at the same time, the means of surmounting them,

As the readiest mode of communicating the nature and extent of the information contained in.the reports herewith submitted, a brief description of each route, its characteristic features, facilities, difficulties, and probable cost of construction, will be given.

For a long distance west of the Mississippi, the enterprise of private companies, acting under State charters, has explored the country, and has projected or is constructing railroads, stretching towards the Pacific. As the examinations made under these auspices, and our general knowledge of that part of the country, afford the information necessary to determine all questions bearing upon the practicability of a railroad, it has been deemed unnecessary to incur the expense and delay of continuing the explorations directed by the act, eastward of the points reached, to which railroads are already projected, and consequently but one of the routes, the most northern, has its starting-point on the Mississippi. The connexion of the others with that river, as well as with the seaports of Atlantic and Gulf States, is shown by a table (B) hereto annexed, compiled from the best railroad maps. j

ROUTE NEAR THE FORTY-SEVENTH AND FORTY-NINTH PARALLELS OF NORTH LATITUDE.

Taking the routes in their geographical order, that near the 47th parallel, the general direction of the exploration of which was intrusted to Governor Stevens, of Washington Territory, will be the first discussed.

The route was to cross the Rocky mountains at the sources of the tributaries of the Missouri and Columbia rivers, and, in approaching and leaving the mountains, to follow as far as prac- ticable the valleys of these rivers and their tributaries.

The general direction of the Missouri from the Rocky mountains to the Great Bend, in lati- tude 48° 30’, is from west to east, and thence to latitude 43° 30’ southeast. The point where the direction changes is reached from St. Paul,.on the Mississippi, by a line passimg up on the east side of that river to Little Falls, 109 miles, and there crossing it; thence gaining the divide between the waters of Hudson’s bay and those of the Missouri, keeping on this divide, and approaching, in longitude 103°, within a few miles of the 49th parallel; then passing southerly, between the 104th and 105th meridians, and entering the valley of the Missouri river. The route then follows this valley to the mouth of Milk river. The ground near the Missouri here becoming rough and broken, the route is obliged to leave it and follow the valley of Milk river 187 miles; then entering the prairies, which near the mountains are more favorable for location than near the Missouri river, it continues in a line nearly parallel to the river, across its tributaries, the Marias, Teton, and Sun rivers, and enters either Clark’s or Cadotte’s Pass.

As far as the crossing of Sun river, 1,093 miles from St. Paul, the route is over river bottom or prairie, the usual expense of construction over such ground being increased by the necessity of guarding against freshets by embankment on the river bottoms, of ballasting in the soft, sticky soil of Milk river, of providing supplies of water during the dry season, over certain portions of the route, by reservoirs and aqueducts, estimated to cost, with planting trees for supply of fuel, $3,000,000, and of transporting ties and lumber for distances of from 100 to

‘ROUTE NEAR THE FORTY-SEVENTH AND FORTY-NINTH PARALLELS, 9

470 miles—forest-growth suitable for ties and lumber not being found at closer intervals on the route. These, in connexion with the uninhabited and uncultivable condition of the country for 740 miles, form the difficulties of this portion of the route, and will materially increase the cost of its construction.

ait most difficult portion of the whole route is, however, that which is now entered upon,

: from Sun river to the Spokane, a distance of 365 salen embracing the Rocky mountains proper, and a secondary chain lying west of them, called Coeur d’Alene and the Bitter Root mountains,

Through the Rocky mountains seven passes were explored; but the only ones among them, upon which the information obtained was sufficiently thorough and complete to enable projects to be made, are two (Clark’s and Cadotte’s) lying near each other in latitude 47°, and connecting the headwaters of Dearborn river, a tributary of the Missouri, with the Black- foot, a head branch of the Columbia.

The summit ridge of Clark’s Pass has an elevation of 6,323 feet, and requires a tunnel 21 miles long, at an elevation of 5,300 feet. Its connexion with the main line of survey along the valley of the Blackfoot river was not made, though ‘‘believed’’ practicable, with grades of 50 feet per mile. The interyal unexamined is 4} miles long. This pass has been adopted by Governor Stevens in the railroad estimate, and is probably practicable.

The approach to the other pass (Cadotte’s) is difficult, owing to the numerous deep ravines of the tributaries of a branch of Dearborn river, which the road must cross. The summit of the pass has an elevation of 6,044 feet; requires a tunnel 44 miles long, at an elevation of 5,000 feet, with grades of approach of 60 feet, and of departure of 40 feet, per mile.

A tunnel 44 or even 24 miles in length, in rock or part rock, at a depth below the summit of 1,000 feet, in a severely-cold climate, 800 or 1,000 miles distant from a thickly-inhabited district, is a work of vast difficulty; and the necessity of the construction of one of these two tunnels, in connexion with the character of the approach, and the difficult nature of the work required, continuing westward as far as the crossing of the Spokane river, in all a distance of 365 miles, is one of the most serious objections to the route.

From either pass the route seeks the Blackfoot river, with the view of reaching Clark’s fork, which opens the only pass through the Bitter Root mountains, the practicability of which was determined. Ip order to reach Clark’s fork, two routes were examined. The first fol- lows the Blackfoot river to its junction with Hell-Gate, a distance of 93 miles. The valley is narrow and wooded, the stream winding, and for twenty miles there is a narrow gorge. Numerous’ bridges will be required. The Hell-Gate, a few miles after being joined by the Blackfoot, empties into the St. Mary’s, called below this junction the Bitter Root. The con- struction of the road along this stream to its junction with Clark’s fork will be a work of . great difficulty and expense, requiring short curves, steep gradients, numerous bridges, heavy side-cutting, and high embankments, in consequence of the spring freshets, (from twenty to thirty feet of vertical rise.) From the nature of the examination, its practicability cannot be considered as established.

The other route, (shorter, and probably less difficult,) having followed the Blackfoot but a short distance, crosses to the Jocko, descends this to the Flathead, and descends the latter to its junction with the Bitter Root, forming Clark’s fork, bounded closely by high, rocky mountains. Having reached Clark’s fork, the route continues along this river as far as Lake Pend d’Oreille, between rugged, rocky mountains, which at several points crowd upon the river. The valley of this river is heavily timbered, principally with pine, and, with the lake, it is subject to freshets fifteen feet in height. Leaving Lake Pend d Oreille at its lower extremity, the route crosses to the Spokane without difficulty. At the Spokane river the continuous mountain region and the forest terminate, and ‘‘all great difficulties of location upon the route cease.’ The earth-excavation and embankment throughout this section

(from the east base of the Rocky mountains tu the Spokane river, 365 miles) will be large in 2a

10 ROUTE NEAR THE FORTY-SEVENTH AND FORTY-NINTH PARALLELS.

amount, and expensive; there will be frequent rock-excavation, and the bulk of the rock- excavation in the entire route will be in this section. It is evident that the difficulties of con- struction will be great, and the cost excessive.

Upon the passes of the Rocky mountains, Governor Stevens says: ‘‘It is not doubted there are other passes in this portion of the Rocky mountain range, even better than those explored ; they are indicated by the general depression of the mountain range, with the greater fre- quency of the streams stretching out to meet each other from the opposite slopes of the mount- ains ; and I consider it important that, in future operations, a whole season should be devoted to their thorough examination, and that instrumental surveys should be made of the pass found to be the most practicable.’’

Leaving the Spokane, the route enters the Great Plain of the Columbia, a table-land stretch- ing from the Ceeur d’Alene to the Cascade mountains, a distance of 200 miles. Its central and western portions are of trap formation, and are described on the map as sandy, rocky, and sterile. Its summit, 800 feet above the Spokane river, is readily attained, the treeless plain is crossed in a distance of 110 miles, and a suitable point for crossing the Columbia river, 400 or 450 yards wide, reached, 140 miles distant from the Spokane. This point is about Giaaliy distant from the cayiednle waters of the Pacific in Puget sound and in the Columbia river. The whole intermediate space is occupied by the Cascade mountains, with their secondary chains, spurs, and high, broken table-lands, through which there are but two passes reported practicable for a railroad—that of the Columbia river and that of the Yakima, sometimes erroneously called the Snoqualme.

The Yakima Pass gives the most direct route to Puget sound, the distance by it being 150 or 160 miles shorter than by the Columbia River Pass. It requires a tunnel through rock, (siliceous conglomerate,) either 4,000 yards long, 3,000 feet above the sea, or a tunnel 11,840 yards long, 2,400 feet above the sea. The reconnaissance did not extend westward from the summit more than three miles. The evidence respecting the amount of snow found on the summit of the pass at the close of winter, makes it probable that it is then 20 feet deep there. This question should be satisfactorily settled, and the reconnaissance completed, before the practicability of the pass can be considered established. In the opinion of the officer making the reconnaissance—Captain McClellan, Corps of Engineers—the pass is barely practicable, and only at a great cost of time, labor, and money. Under every favorable condition of position the construction of either of the proposed tunnels would be seriously objectionable ; but where the position itself is so unfavorable, the final advantages should be very great to determine the selection of this route. The information now possessed is sufficient to decide against this route.

The route by the pass of the Columbia follows that river from the Great Plain, being gen- erally located, as far as the Dalles, in bottom-lands which present no difficulties. From the Dalles to near Vancouver, 90 miles, the rocky bluffs close upon the river, and the work required will be similar to that of the Hudson River railroad along the mountain region, In the opinion of Mr. Lander, ‘‘the high floods to which the Columbia river is subject, are serious obstacles to obtaining the best location for cheap construction offered by its valley.’’ In 1854, the rise of the river during the flood was 10 feet above spring level, and 17 feet above summer level.

The Columbia river is navigable for sea-going vessels to Vancouver, the point now reached ; but the unfavorable character of the entrance to that river, and the great superiority of the ports on Puget sound, seemed to render it expedient to adopt some one of the latter as the Pacific terminus of this route. Continuing down the Columbia, therefore, through bottom- lands, to the mouth of the Cowlitz, the route enters the wide and comparatively flat and wooded valley of that river, ascends it, and, crossing over the wooded and prairie plains, which, “though not fully explored, are sufficiently well known to insure the unusually favorable character of the country for the construction of a railway,’’ reaches Seattle, the best port on the east side of Puget sound.

ROUTE NEAR THE FORTY-SEVENTH AND FORTY-NINTH PARALLELS. WL

From the Rocky mountains to Seattle, wood, stone, and other building materials, are found along the line of the route, or at points so accessible to it, that it may be considered well sup- plied with them throughout.

The information upon the character of the soil upon the route does not admit of satisfactory conclusions to be deduced. It is sufficient, however, to show that in this latitude, as in that of the Arkansas, the uncultivable region begins about the 99th meridian. Immediately under the Rocky mountains the soil improves, probably from the mountain wash. The tertiary and cretaceous formations extend, in these latitudes, from about the 97th meridian to the eastern base of the Rocky mountains, and, under the meteorological conditions found in this space, are unsuitable for agricultural purposes. There are some very limited exceptions to this gen- eral character in portions of river bottoms. These tertiary formations in the arid regions of Asia and Africa form the great deserts of those countries.

The country west of the Rocky mountains to the Pacific slopes may likewise be described as one of general sterility. The eastern portion of the Great Plain of the Columbia is represented to be grassed; its middle and western parts almost entirely sandy, rocky, and sterile. The mountain masses, spurs, and table-lands of the Cascade chain, east of the main crest, are sterile. There are exceptions to this general sterility in the mountain valleys, where the soil is better constituted for fertility, and the rains more abundant; but, although portions of these are suitable for agricultural purposes, they are better adapted to grazing. The sum of the areas of cultivable soil in the Rocky mountain region does not exceed, if it equals, 1,000 square miles. West of the Cascade mountains there are rich river bottoms, clay formations that are arable, and prairies offering good grazing.

The principal favorable characteristics of this route are its low profile, low grades, and the low elevation of the mountain passes, and its connexion with the Missouri and Columbia rivers. The reported sum of the ascents and descents is the least of all the routes; this proportion may, however, be changed when the minor undulations are measured. The principal unfavor- able features are, in construction, the tunnel required on the Rocky mountains, and the difficulty and expense of construction from the eastern approach of the Rocky mountains to the Spokane river, and the expense of the construction along the Columbia river, from the Dalles to near Vancouver. These, when considered carefully, are serious objections to the route, not only in the money, but the time, they will consume. In thickly-populated countries their construction would be difficult and costly; situated as they are—the Rocky mountain region especially—the difficulties, cost, and time required, are greatly increased.

The severely-cold character of the climate throughout the whole route, except the portion west of the Cascade mountains, is one of its unfavorable features; and, for national considera- tions, its proximity to the dominions of a powerful foreign sovereignty must be a serious objection to it as a military road.

Its cost has been estimated by Governor Stevens, by the Columbia River valley and the Cow- litz, at $117,121,000; the cost of work at eastern prices having had 25 per cent. added to it from the Bois des Sioux to the Rocky mountains, and 40 per cent. thence to the Pacific. It has been thought safer to add 100 per cent. to the cost at eastern prices from the eastern slope of the Rocky mountains to the Pacific. This would swell the estimate to $150,871,000.

Should Governor Stevens have included a full equipment in his estimate, $10,000,000 should be subtracted from this sum to bring the estimate in accordance with those of the other routes, and the cost then becomes $140,871,000.

The length of the route from St. Paul to Vancouver is 1,864 miles. The sum of ascents and descents, as far as reported, is 18,100 feet, which will be equivalent, in the cost of working the road, to an increased horizontal distance of 343 miles: this added to the length of the line of location, gives for equated length 2,207 miles.

From St. Paul to Seattle, by the Columbia route, is 2,025 miles, which the sum of ascents and descents increases to an equated distance of 2,387 miles.

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The work upon this route, under Governor Stevens, embraced a wider field of exploration than that upon any other explored, and a great amount of topographical and general inform- ation was collected in relation to the country traversed. The necessary astronomical observa- tions were not made to determine accurately the longitudes of the several stations, and the loss of his barometrical observations, after the completion of the field-work, left no means of revising and verifying the profile of the route.

The examination of the approaches and passes of the Cascade mountains, made by Captain McClellan, of the Corps of Engineers, presents a reconnaissance of great value, and though performed under adverse circumstances, exhibits all the information necessary to determine the practicability of this portion of the route, and reflects the highest credit on the capacity and resources of that officer.

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About one-half of the route in this latitude, extending from the Missouri river to Fort Bridger, on a tributary of Green river, has not been explored with a special reference to the practicability of constructing a railroad, and the reports do not contain all the details neces- sary to the elucidation of the subject. The information respecting it is to be found in the reports of Col. Fremont and Capt. Stansbury.

From Fort Bridger to Fort Reading, on the Sacramento river, the exploration has been made by Lieut. HE. G. Beckwith, under the appropriation for that purpose.

The route may commence on the Missouri, either at Fort Leavenworth, about 245 miles from the Mississippi at St. Louis, or at Council Bluffs, about 267 miles from the Mississippi at Rock Island, ascend the Platte and enter the eastern chain of the Rocky mountains (the Black Hills) by the North fork and its tributary, the Sweet Water. Another route, by the South fork and a tributary called Lodge Pole creek, has been suggested by Capt. Stansbury as shorter and less expensive; but the information respecting it is not sufficiently full to make further mention of it necessary.

From the Missouri river to the entrance of the Black Hills, 30 miles above Fort Laramie, 520 miles from Council Bluffs, and 755 miles from Fort Leavenworth, the route resembles others from the Mississippi to the Rocky mountains, and needs no special mention. Its cost per mile will be about the same.

The route west of this point crosses many lateral streams that have cut deep ravines into the soil, and leaves the Platte just below the Hot Spring Gap, above which it is walled in by cafions. To avoid these, the route crosses a range of hills 800 feet above the river, and descend- ing to the Sweet Water, a branch of the Platte, follows that stream to its source, where the summit of the plateau of the South Pass (elevation 7,490 feet) is attained. The valley of the Sweet Water is generally rather open, but occasionally it cuts through mountain spurs, forming cajions.

From the first gorge in the Black Hills to the summit of the pass, 291 miles, the work will be difficult and expensive, and is assimilated in amount to that of the Baltimore and Ohio railroad,

From the South Pass the route follows down Sandy creek, a tributary of Green river, to the crossing of the latter, and thence to Fort Bridger, (elevation 7,254 feet,) on Black’s fork, likewise a tributary of Green river. The amount of work on this section would be consid- erably less than on the preceding.

From Council Bluffs to Fort Bridger the distance is 942 miles; from Fort Leavenworth 1,072 miles.

The route now ascends the divide between the waters of Green river and those of the Great Salt lake, by the valley of Black’s fork, or of one of its tributaries, with grades of 69.5 and 40.3 feet per mile. The summit is a broad terrace at the foot of the Uinta mountains, and has an elevation of 8,373 feet. From this point the line descends over the undulating country

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separating the Uinta and Bear River mountains, crossing the head of Bear river, and, entering the valley of White Clay creek at its head, follows down that stream to its junction with Weber river.

The Wahsatch mountains now intervene between this plateau country ‘and the Great Salt lake, and the passage through them may be effected by following Weber river, or by ascend- ing to near the sources of the Timpanogos; and descending that stream—both nate affluents, directly or indirectly, of the Great Salt lake—the distances are about the same to their common point on thaf lake.

There are canons upon both these streams. That of the Timpanogos is 10 miles in length, and narrow, being from 100 to 300 yards in width. It is direct in its general course, but must be bridged at several points, to avoid short curves. The sides are of blue limestone, and will require rock-blasting at some points. The river, 30 yards wide, descends with a powerful current, and, when most swollen, is six feet above its ordinary level.

On Weber river there are two cations. The upper is rather a gorge or defile, 84 miles long. The mountains rise to a great height above it, and are rocky and precipitous, and much broken by ravines. The river is winding, and it “i be necessary to cross it frequently. The lower canon, near the borders of the valley of Great Salt lake, is four miles long, direct, with an average width of 175 yards, the stream being 30 yards wide, and impinging frequently with great force against the base of the mountains, which, however, are sufficiently retreating to admit of the practicable passage of a railway.

Entering the valley of Great Salt lake from either this or the Timpanogos cafion, there is no obstacle to the construction of a railway passing by the south end of the lake, and crossing the Jordan, Tuilla valley, and Spring or Lone Rock valley, to its west side.

By the valley of the Timpanogos, the distance from near Fort Bridger to the south end of the Great Salt lake, on the western side of the valley of the Jordan, is 182.55 miles; the greatest grade required, 84 feet to the mile. The amount of work required on this section, excepting that along the canon, will not, in the opinion of Lieutenant Beckwith, be great.

From the western shore of Great Salt lake to the valley of Humboldt river, the country con- sists alternately of mountains, in more or less isolated ridges, and of open level plains, rising gradually from the level of the lake on the east, to the base of the Humboldt mountains on the west; that is, from 4,200 feet to 6,000 feet above the sea. West of the Humboldt mount- ains the country is of the same character, the plains declining until, at the west shore of Mud lake, usually called the foot of the Sierra Nevada, the elevation is 4,100 feet.

The mountains in this space of 500 miles, (by the route travelled 600 miles,) between the Great Salt lake and the foot of the Sierra Nevada, have a general north and south course. Occasionally cross-spurs close in the valleys to the north and south, but more frequently this isolation is only apparent. The mountains are sharp, rocky, and inaccessible in many parts, but are low and easily passed in others. Their general elevation varies from 1,500 to 3,000 feet above the valleys, and but few of them retain snow upon their highest peaks during the summer. They are liberally supplied with springs and small streams, but the latter seldom extend far into the plains. At the time of melting snows there are many small ponds and lakes, but at other seasons the waters are absorbed by the soil near the base of the mountains. Grass is found in abundance upon nearly every range, but timber 1s very scarce—a small scat- tered growth of cedar only being seen upon afew ranges. Hast of the Humboldt mountains the growth of cedars is more abundant, and the grass better, than to the west. The valleys rarely have a width east and west of more than five or ten miles, but often have a large extent north and south. They are irregular in form, frequently extending around the ends of mount- ains, or uniting to succeeding valleys by level passages. The greater part of the surface of these valleys is merely sprinkled by several varieties of sombre artemisia, (wild sage,) pre- senting the aspect of a dreary waste. Though there are spots more thickly covered with this vegetation, yet the soil is seldom half covered with it, even for a few acres, and is nowhere

14 ROUTE NEAR THD FORTY-FIRST AND FORTY-SECOND PARALLELS.

suitable for settlement and cultivation. Immediately west of Great Salt lake there is a plain of mud, clay, and sand, impregnated with salt, seventy miles in width from east to west by its longest line, and forty at a narrower part further south, thirty miles of which must be piled for the passage of a railroad across it. A railroad may be carried over this series of valleys and around the mountain masses, at nearly the general level of the valleys.

The route in this manner reaches the foot of the Humboldt mountains, a narrow but elevated ridge, containing much snow during most of the year, and crosses them by a pass nine miles long, about three of which are occupied by a narrow, rocky ravine, above which the road should be carried on the sloping spurs of the mountains on the western descent; elevation of summit 6,579 feet above the sea. At the time when passed, 21st May, snow covered the high peaks above it, and a few drifts extended into the ravines down to the level of its summit.

The descent is now made to the open valley of Humboldt river, which is followed for about 190 miles. The steepest grade proposed in the pass of Humboldt mountain is 89 feet per mile for eight miles, but this can be reduced by gaining distance to any desirable extent.

The Humboldt river, as described by Colonel Fremont, is formed by two streams rising in mountains west of the Great Salt lake. Its general direction is from east to west, coursing among broken ranges of mountains; its length about three hundred miles. It is without affluents, and terminates near the foot of the Sierra Nevada in a marshy lake. It has a moderate current—is from two to six feet deep in the dry season, and probably not fordable anywhere below the junction of the two streams during the melting of the snows. The valley varies in width from a few miles to twenty, and, excepting the immediate river-banks, is a dry, sandy plain, without grass, wood, or arable soil. Its own immediate valley (bottom) is a rich alluvion, covered with blue grass, herds-grass, clover, and other nutritious grasses, and its course is marked through the plain by a line of willow.

Of the three lines from the Humboldt river to the foot of the Sierra Nevada, the best is that by the Noble’s Pass road, as it avoids the principal range of mountains crossed on the line followed a few miles south. The line followed crosses two ranges of the general character of the Basin mountains, and reaches the foot of the Madelin Pass of the Sierra Nevada, on the west shore of Mud lake, in a distance of 119 miles, and at an elevation of 4,079 feet above the sea.

In this latitude the Sierra Nevada was found to be a plateau about 5,200 feet above the sea, 40 miles in width from east to west, enclosed at these limits by low mountains, the summits of the passes through which are 400 and 500 feet above the base. The plain is covered with irregular spurs, ridges, and isolated peaks, rising a few hundred feet, limiting it in a north and south direction sometimes to a space of a few hundred yards, and at others to that of ten miles. These spurs, &c., on the eastern portion of the plateau, are sparsely covered with cedar ; on the western, heavily covered with pine.

There is no drainage from this plain, the waters of a few small streams and springs forming grassy ponds upon its surface. In its general features it is similar to the Great Basin, excepting that as more rain falls upon it, the vegetation is comparatively luxuriant.

There are two routes by which this plain may be reached from the Great Basin, and the descent made to the Sacramento river. That by the Madelin Pass, the more northern, is most probably the better of the two, and is the only one necessary to be considered. Leaving Mud lake, it ascends by the valley of Smoky creek for three miles, through a narrow gorge (from 100 to 150 yards wide) in an outlying spur of the Sierra Nevada.

After this the route is over more open ground, varying, in degree, to the summit of the pas- sage through the eastern ridge bounding the Sierra Nevada plateau. The pass is thus far of a very favorable character—the length of the ascent is 22.89 miles; the difference of elevation, 1,172 feet; the altitude of the summit, 5,667 feet; and the steepest slope is 75 feet per mile.

The plateau being gained, is crossed by a nearly level line to the low ridge bounding it on the west, the summit elevation of which, 5,736 feet, is attained by following a ravine valley.

The descent to the Sacramento along one of its tributaries is now commenced, and is at

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first rapid. A cut is proposed at the summit, 120 feet deep, running out to the surface at either end, making a length of four miles, ana a grade of 124 feet to the mile for 2.4 miles. It may be preferable to tunnel or to cut only one-half the depth proposed. The open plain of Round valley, on the Sacramento, is reached 15 miles from the summit, (difference of eleva- tion 1,300 feet,) located for one-half that distance on the mountain side, which is broken by ravines,

The route now lies over the smooth plain of Round valley for 15 miles, to the head of the first cation on the Sacramento. This cation is a formidable obstacle to be overcome. Its entire length is nearly 14 miles, succeeded by an open valley of similar extent, which is followed by a second cation, nine miles in length, of the same character as the first. From the mouth of Canoe creek, four miles below the foot of the second canon, for the space of 96 miles the course of the Sacramento lies entirely through heavily-timbered mountains, which rise precipi- tously from the river-banks to the height of from 1,500 to 2,000 feet above the stream. Its course is very sinuous, with all varieties of curves greater than a right-angle, and is seldom entirely straight for two miles consecutively. The construction of this portion of the route, 136 miles in length, would be one of no ordinary difficulty or expense under the most favorable circumstances of dense population, and the facilities of railroad construction which it would afford. It is impossible, with the data presented, to form a reliable opinion of its probable cost.

Seventeen miles above Fort Reading the open valley of the Sacramento is attained, over which a railroad may be carried to the bay of San Francisco, 250 or 300 miles distant.

The distance from Fort Bridger to Fort Reading by the line of Lieutenant Beckwith’s profile is 1,012 miles; from Fort Leavenworth to Fort Bridger, 1,072 distance from Fort Leavenworth to Fort Reading, on the eam 4084 es and to Benicia 2,264 miles.

The distance from Council Bluffs to Benicia by the above route is 2,134 miles.

Using the line along which the route can be located in the Great Basin, about 103 miles shorter than that travelled, the distances become, from Fort Bridger to Fort Reading, 909 miles; from Fort Leavenworth to Fort Reading, 1,980 miles; and to Benicia, 2,161 miles.

The distance from Council Bluffs to Benicia becomes 2,031 miles.

The points of supply for ties, lumber, &c., are at distances apart of 500, 300, 200, and 700 miles, as timber is only found at the eastern extremity of the route, on the Black Hills, Wind River mountains, the Uinta and Wahsatch mountains, and on the western slopes of the Sierra Nevada. The scattered growth of cedar upon the Basin mountains may, perhaps, be found available for ties.

Should the coal-beds of Green river prove to be of such quality and extent as to admit of being profitably mined, the points of supply of fuel—the same as those just designated for lumber—will be importantly increased. Coal may then be had for nearly the cost of mining it at the eastern terminus of the road, for cost of mining near its middle, and at its western terminus for the cost of mining, and freight to that point from Puget sound.

Fuel for working-parties will generally be found contiguous to the route.

The winter climate is known to be severe on the plains east of the Rocky mountains in this latitude. That it is more severe, and of long duration, upon the great table-land of the Rocky mountains, is to be inferred. Lieut. Beckwith found the sun had not yet begun to melt the snow upon the terrace divide on the western border of the plateau, and about 1,000 feet above it, when he crossed the former, on the 10th April. The snow was here from twelve to sixteen ieee deep, and had oduinnuictechs in deep drifts on the northeast slopes of the hills and ravines. Captain Stansbury found the Uinta mountains covered with snow for a considerable distance from their summits on the 19th August. The quantity of snow that falls upon the great undulating plain between Fort Laramie and Fort Bridger is not exactly known. It ig probable that no unusual difficulty may be apprehended from it on this plain,

16 ROUTE NEAR THE FORTY-FIRST AND FORTY-SECOND PARALLELS.

or on the terrace divide, where crossed by Lieut. Beckwith; but the fall of snow in the Wah- satch and other mountains is very much greater, and accumulates in their gorges, ravines, and cafons, to great depths. Apparently, Lieut. Beckwith does not apprehend unusual difficulties from this cause along the proposed railroad route in this region, or in that of the Madelin Pass.

The supply of water upon the Rocky mountain plateau must be very limited at certain seasons of the year: the distances apart of these supplies are not given.

Abundant supplies of water were found by Lieut. Beckwith on the mountains of the Great Basin. The season of the year when he crossed it—the spring—was the most favorable in this respect.

On this route, as on others, from the 98th or 99th meridian to the western slopes of the Sierra Nevada, a distance of 1,400 miles, the soil is uncultivable, excepting the compara- tively limited area of the Mormon settlement, and an occasional river-bottom and mountain valley of small extent.

West of the Black Hills the plains are covered with artemisia, rarely furnishing any grazing except along the water-courses—the mountains being generally clothed, to a greater or less extent, with grass. The barren aspect of the Great Basin has been already described. In that desolate region there are but few and very limited areas where the conditions of soil, water, and temperature requisite for cultivation, are found.

The features of this route, favorable to the economical construction of a railroad, are apparent from the description of it which has just been given. Its unfavorable features may be briefly described: as the costly construction, for nearly three hundred miles along the Platte and Sweet Water, in ascending to the summit of the South Pass; in the cajion otf the Timpanogos; in the two canons of the Sacramento, fourteen and nine miles in length; and in the very sinuous course of the river, for the space of ninety-six miles, through heavily- timbered mountains rising precipitously from the stream—the cost of constructing a railroad along which cannot be properly estimated until minute surveys are made.

Although the route passes over elevated regions, the sum of ascents and descents is the next least after that of the 47th parallel, which is to be attributed to the table-land character of the mountain districts.

It partakes of the character of the route near the 47th parallel, in the long and severe winters on the plains east of the Rocky mountains and westward to the Great Basin.

The cost, as estimated in the office, from Council Bluffs to Benicia, a distance of 2,031 miles, is $116,095,000.

The statistics of the route will be found in the table appended.

The survey of the western portion of this route by Lieutenant Beckwith, has resulted in the discovery of a more direct and practicable route than was believed to exist from the Great Salt lake to the valley of the Sacramento. Since his report was made, a brief communication from Brevet Lieutenant Colonel Steptoe, commanding the troops in Utah, has announced the discovery of a still more direct route from Great Salt lake to San Francisco. The new portion of this route passes to the south of Humboldt or Mary’s river, and, entirely avoiding the difficulties. experienced by travellers along that stream, proceeds to the valley of Carson river, being well supplied with water and grass. From Carson river it crosses the Sierra Nevada by the passes at the head of that river, and descends to the valley of the Sacramento, being practicable throughout for wagons.

In the absence of instrumental surveys affording data for the construction of profiles, no opinion can be formed as to the practicability of this route for a railroad. Should it be found practicable, however, it will lessen the length of the route of the 41st parallel, and still further diminish its difficulties, already known to be less than on any other route except that of the 32d parallel.

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ROUTE NEAR THE THIRTY-EIGHTH AND THIRTY-NINTH PARALLELS OF NORTH LATITUDE.

The general consideration that determined the position of the route to be examined near the 38th and 39th parallels of latitude, was its central position geographically, it being about midway between the northern and southern boundary lines of the United States, which is like- wise the position, nearly, of the Bay of San Francisco; the two termini of the route, St. Louis and San Francisco, being respectively in latitudes 39° and 38°, nearly. Moreover, a route near these parallels would probably give the shortest road from the Bay of San Francisco to the navigable waters of the Mississippi.

The exploration of the route conducted by Captain J. W. Gunnison, corps of Topographical Engineers, commenced on the Missouri at the mouth of the Kansas, about 245 miles from the Mississippi at St. Louis. The Kansas, and its branch called the Smoky Hill fork, were followed to a convenient point for crossing to the Arkansas, the valley of this latter river having been entered west of the Great Bend and near the meridian of 99°. The route then ascended the valley of the Arkansas to the mouth of Apishpa creek, fifty miles above Bent’s Fort; leaving it here, and crossing to the entrance of the Rocky mountains, here called the Sierra Blanca, at the Huerfano Butte, on the river of that name, a tributary of the Arkansas. The elevation at this point is 6,099 feet ; its distance from Westport, mouth of the Kansas river, by the rail- road route, 654 miles.

Of the several passes through the Rocky mountains connecting the tributaries of the Huerfano with those of the Rio del Norte, but one, the Sangre de Cristo, was found practicable for a railroad, the new and only practicable approach to this pass being explored by Capt. Gunnison. By side location the summit, 9,219 feet above the sea, 692 miles from Westport, was attained, and the descent made to the valley of the Rio Grande with practicable though heavy grades; and thence the grades were favorable to the vicinity of Fort Massachusetts.

The western chain of the Rocky mountains is now to be crossed in order to gain and traverse the basins of the two great tributaries of the Colorado of the West, Grand and Green rivers. For this purpose the valley of San Luis, an extensive, uncultivable plain, covered for the most part with wild sage, was ascended with easy grades to Sahwatch creek, one of whose affluents rises ina pass of the Rocky mountains, here called the Sahwatch mountains, known by the name of the Coo-che-to-pa Pass.

The approach to the summit of the pass, 10,032 feet above the sea, 816 miles from Westport, is not favorable, the pass in this part having a defile character, overhung occasionally by walls of igneous rock. ‘To cross the summit, a grade of 124 feet per mile for several miles, and a tunnel nearly two miles long, are required. The descent, with grades varying from 41 to 108 feet per mile, is by the valley of Pass creek, along which much cutting and filling will be necessary, as the hills are cut by numerous ravines. For 16 miles before the junction of Pass ereek with Coo-che-to-pa creek, the former passes through a broken cation. After following Coo-che-to-pa creek seven miles, the valley of Grand river is attained.

The route follows the valley of this river 173 miles, then crosses the divide to Green river, 68 miles, and by the tributaries of the latter approaches the pass through the Wahsatch mount- ains. A tunnel three-quarters of a mile long is here required, the eastern approach to which is by means of a grade of 125 feet per mile for 6} miles, and a descent to the west for 5 miles of 131 feet per mile. Thence westward along the valley of Salt creek for 18 miles the grade is 95 feet per mile, 16 miles of which is through a rocky cafion, intersected by lateral streams. The route then enters the valley of the Sevier, the exploration terminating on this river, 86 miles further on, and 1,348 miles from Westport.

From the western border of the State of Missouri to the Rocky mountains, 650 miles, no timber suitable for railroad purposes will be found, upon which reliance can be placed. From the Coo-che-to-pa Pass to the Great Basin, 500 miles, there is none available on the route, and

the nearest supplies on the mountains bordering the Great Basin are in latitudes 40° and 41°. 3a

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With building-stone it is about as well supplied as the other routes. Of water there is a sufficient supply, except between Grand and Green rivers, a distance of 70 miles, where, at certain seasons of the year, little or none is found.

The soil west of the meridian of 99° is, under the present meteorological conditions, unculti- vable, except in limited portions of river-bottoms and small mountain valleys; these latter, from their great elevation, being better adapted to grazing than agricultural pnrposes. This description is completely in accordance with the geological formation and meteorological con- dition; the former, from the meridian of 99° west, being apparently tertiary, excepting in the high mountain passes.

This route may be considered to possess, in common with that of the 41st parallel, the large body of fertile soil in Utah Territory occupied by the Mormons, the area of which is about 1,108 square miles.

The coal field of Missouri lies at the eastern extremity of this route; the indications of coal in the Grand and Green River basins make it highly probable that seams sufficiently thick for profitable mining exist there.

In regard to grade and construction, it is unnecessary to enter into any discussion of that portion of the route from Westport to the Sangre de Cristo Pass. It presents no peculiar diffi- culties or advantages, but is similar to the routes of the 47th and 41st parallels.

It would appear that the Sangre de Cristo and Coo-che-to-pa Passes are practicable in grade; but the construction of the road through the Coo-che-to-pa Pass, and the western approach to it, would be costly under favourable circumstances of population, &c., not only on account of the tunnel, but of the numerous ravines that are crossed west of the pass, and the cation that follows.

The following brief enumeration of the character and extent of the difficulties to be encountered between the Coo-che-to-pa Pass and the Great Basin, make it evident that the route must be considered impracticable.

From the head of the cafion on Grand river, not far below the mouth of Coo-che-to-pa creek, to the Uncompahgra river, a distance of 70 miles, the ground is cut up with deep, wide, pre- cipitous ravines, the largest several hundred feet deep. These ravines cannot be turned near the mountains without entountering similar difficulties, and at a cost greater than that of a route along the river. Thus the route is forced upon Grand river, and along its cafion, 60 miles in length, broken and interrupted by the deep ravines already mentioned and numerous smaller gullies. The roadway throughout the greater part of this distance must be blasted out ut solid rock, and these wide ravines, from 100 to 200 feet deep, where they cut through the cation, crossed by viaducts or filling.

Then follow 50 miles to the mouth of Blue river, the construction still of a difficult and costly character, from the caiions of the river and broken nature of the ground. From Blue to Green river is 100 miles, over which the road will require numerous bridges and culverts, and a costly road-bed foundation of broken stone or piling over a clayey soil, which in wet weather is almost impassable.

From Green river to the Wahsatch Pass, about 80 miles, the construction would still be of a costly character, the country being of the same ravine and chasm-like nature as that between the mouth of Coo-che-to-pa creek and Uncompahgra river, though on a smaller scale.

Next follows the Wahsatch Pass, the work in which is difficult and expensive. The greatest grade is 131 feet per mile; a tunnel not quite three-quarters of a mile long is requisite; and finally, a cafion 16 miles long on Salt creek, the walls of which are frequently broken by lateral streams, gives the only route along which the road ‘can be brought, by cutting in solid rock at very great expense.

The difficulties of engineering and the cost of construction of this portion of the route from the Coo-che-to-pa Pass to Sevier river, in the Great Basin, a distance of about 500 miles, would be so great that it may be pronounced impracticable; and it is evident, from the report

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of Lieutenant Beckwith, that, to use his own language, ‘‘no other line exists in the imme- diate vicinity of this, worthy of any attention in connexion with the construction of a railroad from the Mississippi river to the Great Basin.’’

It is unnecessary, therefore, to consider the route further, or to enter into any discussion connected with the probable practicability and cost of constructing and working a railroad over other portions of the route where counterbalancing advantages are not found to compensate, in any degree, for the enormous cost of that under consideration.

Laying aside the utterly impracticable nature of this route, the following considerations will show its disadvantages as regards expenses of working, supposing it constructed :

From Westport to the west base of the Un-kuk-oo-ap mountains is 1,323 miles; sum of ascents, 23,190 feet; of descents, 19,052 feet; length of equivalent horizontal line for the route, 2,123 miles.

Of the direct route from the point at the western base of the Un-kuk-oo-ap mountains, near where the survey under Capt. Gunnison terminated, to the Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass, there is no survey or positive information. There is every reason to belive that it is, for the most part, a desert of the same general character as other portions of the Great Basin. Supposing the route to be a.straight line, with uniform descent from the Un-kuk-oo-ap mountains to the entrance of the Tay-ee-chay-pah Pass, in latitude 35° 5’, (no pass being known to be prac- ticable to the north of it in this portion of the Sierra Nevada,) the distance will be 430 miles, and the descent 1,830 feet; the equated horizontal distance, 464 miles.

From the entrance of the Tay-ee-chay-pah Pass to San Francisco is 326 miles; sum of ascents, 1,308 feet; sum of descents, 4,608 feet; equated length, 440 miles. Adding these together, with the equated distance from the mouth of the Kansas to the west base of the Un-kuk-oo-ap mountains, we have the total equated distance from Westport to San Francisco, 3,027 miles—the length of the straight horizontal line, which supposes no obstacle to be avoided, being only 1,500 miles.

The distance from Sevier river to Great Salt lake is 120 miles; sum of ascents and descents, 1,600 feet; equated distance, 150 miles; thence to Benicia, by the route near the 41st parallel, explored by Lieut. Beckwith, is 872 miles; sum of ascents and descents, 15,200 feet: making the.equivalent horizontal line 1,160 miles; which added to the equated distance from West- port to Sevier river, 2,050 miles, we have a total of 3,360 miles, as the equated distance by this route from Westport to Benicia. ;

Neither in soil, climate, productions, population, nor in any other respect, does it possess advantages superior to other routes favoring the construction and working of a railroad.

_ The exploration of this route, conducted by Capt. Gunnison, of the Corps of Topographical Engineers, exhibits the high professional skill and sound judgment which characterized that officer. The extensive and reliable information which he collected, and the exact manner in which his operations were conducted, up to the period when he lost his life in the discharge of his duty, show how thoroughly he would have completed the task he had commenced, and how great a loss the service sustained in his untimely death. Several of his civil assistants fell with him, and the charge of the survey devolved upon Lieut. Beckwith, of the artillery, who has made, from the field-notes left by Capt. Gunnison, a thorough report of his explora- tions. Satisfied of the impracticability of the line he had traversed, Lieut. Beckwith com- , menced an exploration eastward from the Great Salt lake, to connect that position with the line of the 41st parallel, and then returning to Salt lake, continued the survey westward to the waters of the Pacific. This work, in all its parts, has been well done, and the topography well represented. More than ordinary credit is due to this officer, as the task performed by him was not in the line of his usual duties, and was executed without the aid of assistants, and with the means left to the party after a season of field operations.

20 ROUTE NEAR THE THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

ROUTE NEAR THE THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL OF NORTH LATITUDE.

The general features which have determined the position of this route, the exploration of which was conducted by Lieut. A. W. Whipple, Topographical Engineers, are the exten- sion, west and east, of the interlocking tributaries of the Mississippi, the Rio Grande, and the Colorado of the West. It would appear to possess also a greater yearly amount of rain than the regions immediately north and south of it—and, as a consequence, a better supply of fuel and timber.

Commencing at Fort Smith, on the Arkansas river, about 270 miles from the Mississippi at Memphis, the route, as far as the Antelope Hills on the Canadian, a distance of 400 miles, may follow either the valleys of the Arkansas and Canadian, or a shorter line perhaps, but over more ground, south of the Canadian, this latter route branching again, and following either the valley of the Washita, or the dividing ridge between it and the Canadian.

From the Antelope Hills the route continues along the bottom of the Canadian, on the right bank, to the mouth of Tucumcari creek, about 250 miles, and ascends by the valley of Tucumeari, or by that of Pajarito creek, to the dividing-ridge between the Canadian and the Pecos rivers, elevation about 5,543 feet, and enters the valley of the latter. It follows this valley until, by means of a tributary, it rises to the high table-land, or basin, lying east of the Rocky mountains, elevation about 7,000 feet, crosses the elevated Salinas basin, 30 miles wide, the lowest point being 6,471 feet, and gains the divide in the Rocky mountains, eleva- tion about 7,000 feet; from which point it descends to Albuquerque, or Isleta, on the Rio Grande, through the San Pedro Pass; or it may descend to the Rio Grande by the valley of the Galisteo river, north of Sandia mountain. A third route is indicated along the valley of the Pecos to its headwaters; thence to an affluent of the Galisteo ; and thence, as before, to the Rio Grande.

Isleta, on the Rio Grande, is 854 miles from Fort Smith, and 4,945 feet above the sea.

Crossing the ridge separating the Rio Grande from the Puerco, the route follows the valley © of its tributary, the San José, to one of its sources in a pass of the Sierra Madre, called the Camino del Obispo; at the summit, (elevation 8,250 feet,) a tunnel three-fourths of a mile long, at an elevation not less than 8,000 feet, is required, when the descent is made to the Zuni river and near the Pueblo of Zuni; the route then crosses, over undulating ground, to the Puerco of the West, at the Navajo spring.

Another route across the Sierra Madre, about twenty miles further north, was examined by Mr. Campbell, which is apparently far more favorable. The profile, however, is not from reliable instrumental examination. The height of the summit is about 7,750 feet above the sea. The Puerco of the West heads in this pass, and the route follows the valley of this stream, (intersecting the other line at Navajo spring,) to its junction with the Colorado Chiquito; then the valley of that stream to the foot of the southeastern slopes of the San Francisco mountains, elevation 4,775 feet; distance from Fort Smith 1,182 miles, and from the crossing of the Rio Grande 328 miles. Here it ascends to the dividing ridge between the waters of the Gila on the south, and of the Colorado of the West on the north, and continues (or nearly so) upon it for about 200 miles, to the Aztec Pass, elevation 6,281 feet ; distance from Fort Smith 1,350 miles. The highest point reached upon this undulating ridge is 7,472 feet, at Leroux’s spring, at the foot of the San Francisco mountain. From the Aztec Pass, the descent to the Colorado of the West is made by a circuitous route northward along valleys of its tribu- taries, the largest and last being Bill Williams’s fork, the mouth of which, on the Colorado, is 1,522 miles from Fort Smith, and at an elevation above the sea of about 208 feet.

The Colorado is now ascended 34 miles, when the route, leaving it at the Needles, follows what was erroneously supposed to be the valley of the Mohave river, but which proved to be the valley of a stream, dry at the time, whose source was in an elevated ridge, which probably divides the Great Basin from the waters of the Colorado. The summit having been attained,

ROUTE NEAR THE THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL. 21

at an elevation of 5,262 feet above the sea, the descent is made to Soda lake, the recipient at some seasons of the waters of the Mohave river, 1,117 feet above the sea, with an average grade of 100 feet to the mile for 41 miles—the steepest grade yet required on this route. From Soda lake the ascent to the summit of the Cajon Pass, elevation 4,179 feet, in the Sierra Nevada, is made by following the valley of the Mohave river. The summit of this pass, by the line of location, is 1,798 miles from Fort Smith, and 242 from the point of crossing the Colorado, Here a tunnel of 23 or 3;4 miles through white conglomerate sandstone is required, descending to the west with an inclination of 100 feet to the mile, which grade will be the average for 22 miles into the valley of Los Angeles, if the broken character of the hills should be found, upon careful examination, to admit of such side location as would reduce to that degree the natural grades varying between 90 and 171 feet per mile. Thence to the port of San Pedro the ground is favorable for location.

The principal characteristics of this route, in comparison with others, are, probably, its passing through or near more numerous cultivable areas, its more abundant natural supply of water as far west as the Colorado, and the greater frequency and extent of forest growth on the route between the Rio Grande and the Colorado. These two latter characteristics entail a third, however, of an unfavorable nature—the large sum of ascents and descents.

Near the meridian of 99° the change from fertile land to uncultivable is complete, excepting in the river bottoms, which are more or less fertile. Some portions of the upper valley of the Canadian, the upper valley of the Pecos, the valleys of the Rio Grande, Zuiii, Colorado Chiquito, San Francisco, Colorado of the West, and its tributaries, possess a fertile soil, requiring generally irrigation to make it productive. That portion of the southwest corner of the Great Basin traversed by this route, and over which the explorations of Lieut. Williamson also extended, is well constituted for fertility, its barrenness resulting from the absence of rain. Generally the uncultivable plains have an abundance of nutritious grass, though there are extensive tracts where little or none is found.

The route may be considered sufficiently well supplied with good building-stone, since sand- stones suitable for the bridge-building required are reported to exist in the generally soft trias formation, extending from Delaware mountain, on the Canadian, to the Rocky mountains, a distance of 600 miles.

Forest growth, furnishing timber of size suitable for ties and lumber for railroad uses, is found in the following localities: continuously on the route east of longitude 97°; in or near the Pecos valley; in the Rocky mountains and Sierra Madre; in the Mogollon mountains, (south of the route,) in which the Colorado Chiquito and some of its tributaries rise; on the slopes of the San Francisco mountain; and continuously, with short intervals, for more than 120 miles; and on the Sierra Nevada. The distances apart of these points of supply are respectively 540 miles, 100 miles, 150 miles; from the Sierra Madre to San Francisco mountain, 250 miles; then for a space of about 120 miles the supply may be considered continuous; thence to the Sierra Nevada, 420 miles. If the road be built from the two termini, the greatest spaces over which ties, lumber, &c., must be brought by it are 400 and 500 miles. The route, therefore, in comparison with others, is favorably circumstanced in this respect.

The same localities will supply fuel; and, in addition, the coal-fields of Delaware mountain will furnish the eastern portion of the route where wood cannot be economically used. It is reported that coal exists in severa! localities in the Rocky mountains, both east and west of the Rio Grande, near this route, but there is no positive and reliable information that it has been found in sufficient quantities for profitable mining.

The route for 540 miles east of the Sierra Nevada must receive its fuel from the ports of the Pacific.

Over portions of this route, as upon all others, no fuel whatever, not even sufficient for working parties, will be found. The greatest distance over which this total absence of fuel exists, is between the Colorado and Mohave rivers, 115 miles.

22 ROUTE NEAR THE THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

The exact distances over which water is not found at certain seasons are not stated.

Between the 100th meridian and the Pacific there are spaces destitute of it, where, from the known character of the geological structure, there is no doubt that sufficient supplies can be obtained either by deep common wells, artesian wells, or reservoirs.

These more abundant supplies of timber and water, west of the Rio Grande, are attained at the expense of great elevation and somewhat rugged ground.

The Galisteo Pass in the Rocky mountains, and the passes in the Sierra Madre, being wide openings, or valleys, rather than mountain passes, no difficulty need be apprehended from snow, even if it fell to greater depths than those known; over the remainder of the route no difficulty from this cause is to be met with.

The sum of the ascents from San Pedro to Fort Smith is 24,641 feet; of descents, 21,171 feet; equivalent, in the cost of working the road, to an increased horizontal distance of 924.5,

- which added to the length of the line of location, 1,892 miles, gives for length of equated dis- tance 2,816 miles.

The general features of the country indicated lines for examination at more than one point, which will probably greatly improve the route by reducing the ascents and, shortening distances. The party was, however, unable to examine them.

The heaviest grades that will probably be required on the route from Fort Smith to San Pedro, do not equal those in use on the Baltimore and Ohio railroad.

The description of the topographical features of the route is not sufficiently minute to enable one to form a satisfactory opinion of the difficulties of ground to be encountered, and, con- sequently, of the probable cost of the formation of the road-bed. Lieut. Whipple assimilates the several portions of the route to roads already built, possessing, as nearly as possible, similar features and difficulties.

Four hundred and eighty (480) miles of the route are assimilated to the Hudson River rail- road, 151 miles to the Worcester and Albany railroad, (Western railroad,) and 374 miles to the Baltimore and Ohio railroad—making 1,005 miles assimilated to railroads among the most costly that have been constructed in the United States.

The impression given by the description of the route in the report induces the opinion that the ground is more favorable than the comparison of Lieut. Whipple supposes.

Assuming this assimilation to be correct, and bringing the estimate to a uniform standard of increased cost over eastern prices and of equipment, the estimated cost of the route from Fort Smith to San Pedro becomes $169,210,265.

This estimate is believed to be, as above stated, in excess; but the data for reducing it have not yet been reported to the department.

Should it be desired to reach San Francisco by the Tulares and San Joaquin valleys, the route should leave the Mohave valley some 30 miles before reaching the entrance to the Cajon Pass, 1,768 miles from Fort Smith—elevation about 2,555 feet—and proceed across the south- west corner of the Great Basin towards the Tah-ee- ranean Pass, reaching its entrance at an elevation of 3,300 feet, in a distance of about 80 miles. The route from this point is coincident with that Berenice ceened for the 32d parallel.

The sum of ascents from San Francisco to Fort Smith, by the route from Mohave river to Tayee-chay-pah Pass, is 25,570 feet; of descents, 25,100 feet; the equivalent in miles of hori- zontal road is 963 miles, which added to the location-distance between those two points, 2,174 miles, gives for equated length of road 3,137 miles.

The exploration of the route by Lieut. Whipple, and his report thereon, are entitled to the highest commendation, for the completion of the work in all its parts, the full and exact observations which he made for the determination of longitudes and latitudes, and the wide range of scientific research which he instituted into all the collateral branches connected with .the question which his exploration was designed to solve.

ROUTE NEAR THE THIRTY-SECOND PARALLEL. 23

ROUTE NEAR THE THIRTY-SECOND PARALLEL OF NORTH LATITUDE.

Among the considerations which determine the general position of the route near the 32d parallel, are the low elevation of the mountain passes in this latitude, and their favorable topographical features, as well as those of the table-lands, extending over more than 1,000 miles of the route; the favorable character of the surface generally, on the route, by which the most costly item of construction in railroads, the formation of the road-bed, is, in a great measure, avoided ; the shortness of the line, 1,600 miles, from the navigable waters of the Mis- sissippi to the Pacific, and the temperate climate on the elevated portions in this southern latitude.

The explorations made upon this route are, from Preston, on Red river, to the Rio Grande, by Capt. John Pope, Topographical Engineers; from the Rio Grande, near Fort Fillmore, to the Pimas villages, on the Gila, by Lieut. John G. Parke, Topographical Engineers. From the Pimas villages to the mouth of the Gila, the reconnaissance in New Mexico and California of Major W. H. Emory, Topographical Engineers, in 1846, has been used; and from the mouth of the Gila to San Francisco, the exploration of Lieut. R. 8. Williamson, Topographical Engineers, has furnished the data.

Fulton, on the Red river, about 150 miles from the Mississippi, may be considered the eastern terminus of the route, although the examination of Capt. Pope extends only to Pres- ton, 133 miles further west. A direct line from Fulton to the point on the eastern border of the Llano Estacado selected by Capt. Pope for crossing it, would give more favorable ground than that traversed by him between Preston and this point; the latter in a distance of 352 miles gives generally easy grades and cheap construction through a country alternately wooded and open, abundantly supplied with water and fuel, and with forest growth suitable for ties and lumber for two-thirds of the length. From Fulton to the eastern border of the Llano Esta- cado is 485 miles, 370 of which are wooded.

The exploration of Capt. Pope comprised three distinct belts of country, the first of which has been just described above. The second is the Llano Estacado, whose mean elevation is 4,500 feet, the smooth surface of which along the route proposed, 125 miles from the eastern border to the Pecos river, presents in this respect great facilities for the construction of a railroad. It is, however, at certain seasons of the year destitute of water, is scantily supplied with grass, and not a single tree is to be seen upon it. Its geological formation is such as to render the success of obtaining water by artesian wells, at moderate depths, highly probable. During, and for some time subsequent to the rainy season, there are here, as on most other arid plains, numerous ponds, the contents of which might be collected in reservoirs; but the distance from the Colorado Springs to the Pecos, 125 miles, is not so great as to form a serious obstacle to the working of a railroad.

Between the Pecos and the Rio Grande, 163 miles, three mountain chains rise from the table-lands, the Guadalupe, Hueco, and Organ mountains. The Guadalupe mountain is crossed without a tunnel, elevation of summit 5,717 feet, and with a grade of 108 feet to the mile for 22 miles. A high viaduct and heavy cutting and filling for three miles near the summit, form the costly and difficult part of the pass. The Waco Pass is still more favora- ble, the greatest grade being about 80 feet to the mile; the elevation of the summit, 4,812 feet. The Organ mountain is turned just before reaching the Rio Grande at Molino and El Paso.

A peculiarity of the mountains in the western part of the continent, in this and other lati- tudes, is, that they have no intervening deep secondary valleys between the main chain and the plains. Over the usually uniform and smooth surface of these last, the general elevation of which, between the Pecos and the Rio Grande, is from 4,000 to 4,500 feet, the valley of the Rio Grande is attained near Molino, at an elevation of 3,830 feet, and at a distance of 787 miles from Fulton.

24 ROUTE NEAR THE THIRTY-SECOND PARALLEL.

The region between the Rio Grande and the Pimas villages on the Gila, just above which point the latter leaves the mountain region, may be described as a great plain, interrupted irregularly and confusedly by bare, rugged, abrupt, isolated mountains or short ranges, around or through the passes in which a railroad may be constructed with quite practicable grades. The mean elevation of this plain, or series of basins into which the ridges divide it, is about 4,100 feet; the mean elevation of the summits of the passes through the ridges is 4,700 feet, the highest, through the Chiricahui range, being 5,180 feet. Except through the passes, the surface is so smooth as to require but little preparation to receive the superstructure of a rail- road; and even in the two most difficult of the passes, the natural slope of the ground may be used for a railroad until the construction of the road reduces the cost of materials and supplies to the lowest rates. In one of these two passes (the Chiricahui) the steepest natural slope is 194 feet per mile for 2} miles. In the second pass the steepest natural slope is 240 feet per mile for three-fourths of a mile. Both these grades are within the power of a thirty-ton engine, carrying 200 passengers and baggage.

In one case deep cutting in rock, or a tunnel near the surface, at the summit, with heavy side cutting and high embankments for short distances; and, in the other, a short cut of 60 feet, probably through rock, are proposed by Lieut. Parke, to attain grades of 46 feet and 90 feet per mile, or less by increasing distance.

The great difficulty experienced in crossing this district is in the long distances over which no water is found at certain seasons. The survey by Lieut. Parke was made during the dryest season of the year, and, irrespective of the springs found at intermediate points, the whole distance between the two rivers, Rio Grande and Gila, may be divided into five spaces, varying from 80 to 53 miles in length, at the termination of which large permanent supplies of water are found at the most unfavorable season of the year.

These spaces and points are—

Kromithe Rio'Grande to the Rio Mimbres:...:c-cccccesssssceee sneak aanctinanicenenctnteie aetebienttos 71 miles. From the Rio Mimbres to the stream of the Valle de Sauz................0seceseeeeseeeeeees 72 es Hromithe Valledewauz-to the San Pedrotsceet es peeeceseens eae etaes ecm sepecesseeeciess decid 800 He Hromithe SaniPedrorto "Lnezomaisach.cs.sedecwe sce eceebocten derteanen cine totem tesoe ste Ge wcbuteG: onebre bot ak from’ /Tuezonmtoythe Gila: {82.0 0c ts ceeseee chmeeeree cnn cee ne chow cme eee eee aatbaceecensmmcen’s [ene (Ge

Not counting the stream of the Valle de Sauz, the distance from the Rio Mimbres to the San Pedro is 152 miles; which distance is not so great that railroad trains could not cross it without water, special arrangements having been made for the purpose. But this is the worst aspect of the case. At other seasons the supply of water is more abundant, and lakes and ponds are formed upon the plains, which may be drained into tanks; and the geological formation is such as to indicate the existence of sufficient supplies of water beneath the surface, which may be brought to it by artesian wells.

The line proposed by Lieut. Parke leaves the Rio Grande near Fort Fillmore, 35 miles from Molino, between which points the river, where confined to one channel, is about 300 yards wide, crosses the district just described, and enters the valley of the Gila near the Pimas villages, the elevation above the sea being 1,365 feet. The route then follows this river to its junction with the Colorado, a distance of 223 miles, with a general slope of 5.6 feet per mile. The Gila, in this distance, flows through a plain with occasional mountains, ridges, and peaks; its valley is highly favorable to cheap construction from its generally smooth surface, and from not being liable to freshets.

From the point now attained, the nearest port in our territory is San Diego, but the passes of the intervening Coast range are very difficult, if not impracticable, and the route is forced northward to the San Gorgonio Pass, which is much the most favorable of the passes in the Coast range explored by Lieut. Williamson for this route. It is an open valley, from two to five miles wide, the surface smooth and unbroken, affording, in its form and inclination, every facility to the building of a railroad. The entrance of this pass is 133 miles from the mouth

ROUTE NEAR THE THIRTY-SECOND PARALLEL. 25

of the Gila, in a straight line over the Colorado desert, a smooth and nearly horizontal plain, requiring but little preparation for the superstructure of a railroad. Thirty-five miles of this is a gravel plain; the remainder is alluvial soil, which only needs irrigation to be highly productive. On this latter soil, water is found at a depth of 30 feet.

The steepest natural slope, in ascending to the summit of this valley pass, (elevation 2,808 feet,) is 132 feet per mile for two miles.

San Diego and San Pedro can be reached by lines of about equal length from the San Gorgonio Pass. To the former, the first section of the route to San Luis Rey (about 75 miles long) would pass through a country generally favorable to the construction of a railroad, being a plain with numerous hills from 500 to 1,000 feet high, irregularly distributed on its surface, between and around which a road may be carried with favorable grades. Between San Luis Rey and San Diego, however, about 40 or 45 miles, the coast is cut into numerous deep intricate gullies by the drainage of the plain.

To San Pedro, about 125 miles, the route lies almost wholly over the same description of ground as that constituting the first section of the San Diego route, and avoids the obstacles presented by the second. It is, therefore, assumed that the terminus of this route should be at San Pedro, the point which it has now reached. It may, however, be proper to remark that San Pedro is an open roadstead, and would require the construction of a breakwater to constitute it a safe harbor.

From the report of Capt. Pope, it would appear that the belt of fertile land which lies on the west side of the Mississippi throughout its length, extends on this route nearly to the headwaters of the Colorado of Texas, in about longitude 102°—that is, about three degrees further west than on the more northern routes. The evidence adduced in support of this opinion is not, however, conclusive; and, until it is rendered more complete, the fertile soil must be considered in this, as in other latitudes, to terminate about the 99th meridian. Thence to the Pacific slopes the route is over uncultivable soil, though generally grassed, the exceptions being, as on the route of the 35th parallel, in aan of the valleys of the Pecos, Rio Grande, Gila, and Colorado of the West. The table-lands and mountain slopes are usually well covered with grama-grass, and in New Mexico have supported immense herds of cattle. There are excep- tions to this, however, on the greater portion of the Llano Estacado, on portions of the plains between the Rio Grande and the Gila; and (comprised in that space) from Tuczon to the Gila, 80 miles, there is no grass on the route travelled, nor is it to be found on the Lower Gila valley; occasional patches of bunch-grass only being found on the plain, and a species of grama-grass sometimes upon the mountain sides. No grass is found on the Colorado desert, 135 miles along the line of location. =

The length of the route through this generally uncultivable soil is 1,210 miles. Upon descending from the summit of the San Gorgonio Pass, on the route to San Pedro, the soil is fertile, and either well watered or can be irrigated.

The climate throughout the route is salubrious, the heat due its southern latitude being moderated by the elevation of the table-lands. On the Colorado desert it is torrid, but not unhealthy, and much of the country west of the Sierra Nevada and Coast range is celebrated for health and agreeableness.

The principal characteristic of this route is the great extent of high, arid, smooth, and nearly horizontal table-lands which it traverses, reaching an elevation of 4,000 feet upon the dividing ridge between the Brazos and Colorado rivers of Texas, near which elevation it continues until it descends from the pass of the Sierra de Santa Catarina to the Gila river, a space of nearly 600 miles. The elevation at the summit of the Llano Estacado is 4,700 feet, and in the passes of the Guadalupe and Hueco mountains, east of the Rio Grande, 5,700 and 4,800 feet, respectively. Between the Rio Grande and the Gila, the greatest elevation, which is twice attained, is 5,200 feet; the mean elevation, before the descent to the Gila is com-

-menced, being 4,100 feet. From the eastern edge of the Llano Estacado to the pass of San ; 4a

26 ROUTE NEAR THE THIRTY-SECOND PARALLEL.

Gorgonio, 1,052 miles, the route crosses three rivers, the Pecos, the Rio Grande, and the Great Colorado of the West. The peculiar features of the arid region over which the route lies from the eastern edge of the Llano Estacado to the summit of the San Gorgonio Pass, prove, when closely examined, to be most favorable to the construction of a railroad, since they obviate to a great degree the necessity of the most costly item of railroad construction, the prepara- tion of the road-bed for the superstructure; this preparation, with few and limited excep- tions, throughout a distance of about 1,000 miles, having been already made by nature. This item amounts to from one-half to three-fourths of the whole cost of a railroad. Draining and ballasting are also dispensed with at the same time. Over the remaining portions of the route, the ground is generally favorable to the construction of the road-bed. The mountain passes are, of their kind, highly favorable, those west of the Rio Grande requiring no difficult engineering for location through them, and but little rock excavation or expensive embankment and side- cutting. The Guadalupe and Hueco Passes are more difficult.

The most unfavorable supposition for supplies of ties and lumber for the construction of that portion of the route between the eastern limit of the Llano Estacado and the summit of the San Gorgonio Pass, 1,052 miles, is that they are to come from either end of the road, from 300 miles east of the Llano Estacado, and from the port of San Pedro on the Pacific, 1,400 miles apart.

It is supposed that the road is to be built from both ends, in sections not greater than 50 miles each, and made to aid in building itself, transporting its own material, &c., so far as the proper adjustment of economy of time and means will admit; this would bring the mean cost of lumber over this distance of 1,052 miles to $524 per 1,000 feet, and the mean cost of ties to $1,760 per mile.

The worst case having been examined, it remains to be said that ties and lumber can be obtained on and near this portion of the route from the Guadalupe and Hueco mountains, from the headwaters of the Rio Mimbres, from the Pinal Lleno, from the Salinas river (tribu- tary of the Gila) and headwaters of the San Francisco, and from the San Bernardino mount- ains of the Coast range; which sources of supply, the length apart of the most distant being 500 miles, may be found to materially obviate the necessity of transporting lumber from the two ends of the road.

The coal of the Brazos and that from Puget sound may be used over the 1,200 miles from San Pedro, to within 200 miles of the Brazos, at a mean cost per ton of $16.

The portions of the route where unusual means must be resorted to for supplies of water, have already been pointed out. Under the most unfavorable suppositions, the cost per mile, over these portions, of obtaining water by artesian wells, will not probably exceed $1,000, an expenditure greatly overbalanced by the saving in road-bed formation, from the regu- larity and smoothness of surface of the arid regions.

The mode and probable cost of obtaining water at short distances in these dry regions, by artesian wells, reservoirs, and deep common wells, are discussed in the accompanying detailed reports. The practicability of the method by artesian wells is now being sub- jected to trials.

If these should fail, of which, however, in the Llano Estacado, there is little probability, the permanent streams and large springs are sufficiently near for the purposes of a railroad ; and since its construction over these districts will require small working parties, the expense of supplying them with water and fuel, when necessary, will not largely increase the cost of con- struction. It is probable that the region between the Rio Grande and the Gila, 350 miles by the route explored, is more arid than corresponding regions on the more northern routes, but the construction of works of an unusual kind on railroads for supplies of water, are as essential on all these routes as upon that now under consideration.

ROUTE NEAR THE THIRTY-SECOND PARALLEL. 27

The length of this route from Fulton to San Pedro is.......csseeseereeeneeeeeeeesenerees 1,618 miles. Mhe sum Of the ascents and GesceMmts........... cree cece secicraieojnesase scores aseseceessnescs 32,784 feet ; To overcome which is equivalent, in the cost of working the road, to traversing a

horizontal distance of 621 miles; and the equated length of the road is......... 2,239 miles. BEM SCs SiUET) Ad CSL OO Hams ots te he crate ors Te me leo etc atcte ers eval in]e ciebloira es oiis/ms ta sispeleicigie delas'ate $68,970,000

EXTENSION OF THE ROUTE OF THE THIRTY-SECOND PARALLEL TO SAN FRANCISCO.

For a connexion with the Bay of San Francisco, the most direct route from the San Gor- gonio Pass would be through one of the passes leading irom the plain of Los Angeles to the valley of Salinas river. The practicability of these passes is yet to be determined, and an exploration is now being made for this purpose. With the information now possessed, the Bay of San Francisco must be reached by crossing the Coast range to the Great Basin, passing over its southwestern extremity, then crossing the Sierra Nevada and descending to the Tulares valley.

The best pass by which to reach the Great Basin is the ‘‘ New Pass,’’ made known by Lieut. Williamson’s explorations.

Descending from the summit of the San Gorgonio Pass to the town of San Bernardino, 24 or 25 miles distant, with natural slopes less than 80 feet per mile, excepting for 1.3 mile, where the slope is 127 feet per mile, the route to the Mission and Low Pass of San Fernando (about 100 miles from the summit of San Gorgonio) is over a country giving gently undulating grades, and in other respects favorable to construction, in fertile soil, building-stone, water, and fuel.

The San Fernando Pass is about eight miles through. Its summit has an elevation of 1,949 feet. A tunnel is required one-third of a mile long, through soft sandstone, 203 feet below the summit. An ascent of 620 feet is made on the south side, with grades of 155 feet per mile for four miles along the natural slopes, which cannot be reduced by side location without great expense, and a descent of four miles of 115 feet per mile, with heavy side-cutting in earth on the north side. The ascent to the New Pass in the valley of Santa Clara is now begun, and with a cut of 50 feet for a short distance at the summit in drift, the summit is attained in 29 miles over natural slopes without side location, and with grades varying from 55 to 105 feet per mile. For the space of one mile on the ascent, the mountains close in precipitously, and the streams wind abruptly ; and it may be necessary here to cut two or perhaps three short tunnels, from 100 to 300 feet long, through slaty granite. The elevation of the summit is 3,164 feet. Descending to the Great Basin, cutting and filling will be required for two or three miles to adjust the natural slope to the grade west of the summit. After that, and until descending into the Tulares valley by the Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass, a distance of about 70 miles, the ground will require little preparation for the superstructure. The lowest level descended to in the Great Basin is about 2,900 feet.

The Tah-ce-chay-pah Pass, first explored throughout by Lieut. R. 8. Williamson, is the most favorable in this part of the Sierra Nevada. Its summit is a nearly horizontal prairie for 7 miles. The elevation of its entrance from the Great Basin is 3,300 feet, from which the natural slope ascends at the rate of 22 feet to the mile for 12 miles, then at 80 feet per mile for 9 miles, to the prairie summit.

The descent to the Tulares valley is 15} miles by the natural slopes, which vary from 153 to 192 feet per mile, a side location in earth-cutting giving an average grade of 144 feet per mile for 17 miles, which may be reduced still further by an extension to 21 miles—the Tulares valley being entered at an elevation of 1,489 feet. There are two intervals of 13 and 17 miles in the Great Basin where there is no water. Artesian wells here, as in the similar formations between the Rio Grande and the Gila, will probably reach supplies at moderate depths. Deep common wells may be successfully resorted to.

28 ROUTE NEAR THE THIRTY-SECOND PARALLEL.

The natural slopes of the three passes just considered are within the power of a 30-ton engine witha load of 200 passengers, each with 100 pounds of baggage.

Supposing 20-ton engines used, and that they carried the maximum loads adapted to the other portions of the road, where the greatest grades are 40 feet to the mile, it would be necessary to divide this load into three parts to pass a grade of 150 feet per mile; and the grades being brought to that, its disadvantage consists in the expense of two additional engines worked through the passes.

From the head of the Tulares valley, the navigable waters of the Bay of San Francisco may be reached in several ways.

The eastern side of the Tulares and San Joaquin valleys is intersected by numerous streams from the Sierra Nevada. The western is bounded by the Coast chain, and has few streams. That part of the Tulares valley between Kern and San Joaquin rivers, a space of 150 miles, having a soft alluvial soil, is, at certain seasons, miry; a road, therefore, extending through it, should keep near the foot-slopes of the mountains. From the Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass to the best point of crossing Kern river, 214 miles, the route passes over a dry, dusty plain, destitute of water and fuel, the soil of which is not well constituted for fertility.

From the crossing of Kern river to the second crossing of the San Joaquin, near Grayson’s, the numerous river-beds or bottoms should be crossed on piles, the spaces varying from 50 to 300 feet—the greatest width to be spanned not exceeding 100 feet. From Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass to the Straits of Martinez, the location distance would be 288 miles. The most direct route to San Francisco from the Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass will be found through one of the passes known to exist inthe mountain range separating the Tulares and San Joaquin valleys from those of the Salinas and San José rivers. The distance through it is about 10 miles; the elevation of the passes about 600 feet. From Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass the route should cross to the western side of the Tulares valley, around the head of the lakes, and enter the Salinas valley as soon as practicable.

The soil of the Tulares valley, north of Kern river, and of the San Joaquin valley, is well constituted for fertility, and needs merely the proper amount of water to be highly productive. Sufficient water and fuel for working parties can be found at convenient distances on this section, (excepting where it crosses the Great Basin, and approaching Kern river; the amount of deficiency on these portions having been already given.) Lumber and good building-stone are found at various points in the mountains, accessible from their foot-slopes. For fuel for locomotives, the coal of Puget sound and Vancouver’s island must probably be depended upon.

The topographical features of this extension of the route are, with the exception of the mount- ains, favorable to cheap construction. The mountain passes are likewise of a favorable character, their only objectionable feature being their high grades. The nature and extent of this objection has been already stated, and, it is seen, 1s not serious.

From Fulton to San Francisco the distance is 2,039 miles; the sum of the ascents and descents 42,008 feet, which is equivalent to 795 miles; and the equated length of the road is 2,834 miles; the estimated cost is $93,120,000.

To Lieut. Williamson, assisted by Lieut. Parke, was intrusted the survey of a route from the Bay of San Francisco to the junction of the Gila and Colorado rivers, connecting with the ports of San Pedro and San Diego on the one side, and on the other with the most practicable mountain passes. His work has been thoroughly and handsomely executed, presenting much new and valuable information of the mountain passes on the southern portion of the Sierra Nevada and Coast range. The geological examination, made under his orders, is highly creditable and instructive.

The examination of the middle section of the route of the 32d parallel, by Lieut. Parke, was very thorough, and highly creditable, though executed with small means; and his report very satisfactorily exhibits the character and essential features of the country over which he passed. The scientific labors of the boundary survey, which had been previously performed in

CONCLUSION. 29

this region, rendered it unnecessary to do more than make what may be strictly called a railroad exploration.

The examination of the eastern portion by Capt. Pope, assisted by Lieut. Garrard, of the dragoons, was made under the most disadvantageous circumstances, the party having been organized at a remote point, where neither instruments, nor assistants specially instructed in the scientific branches connected with the survey, could be procured. It was, however, creditably performed, and satisfactorily exhibits the topography and general character of the country along the line surveyed. ,

CONCLUSION.

To aid in a comparison of the several routes, reference is made to a table prepared by Capt. A. A. Humphreys, and hereto appended.

With regard to the estimates of cost, although lelieved to be as accurate as can be made under present circumstances, they are to be considered as intended not so much to show the absolute sums of money which would build the several roads, as to represent the relative quantities of materials and labor required for the purpose. If now tested in the actual con- struction of any one of the roads, they will doubtless be found to contain many errors; but as the same data have been assumed on all the routes, the same amount of error will probably be found in each, and the actual expense will thus preserve the same proportion.

With regard to the equated lengths of the seycral roads, or, in other words, the influence of ascents and descents upon the expense of working, it is proper to direct attention to the remarks of the engineer, appended to the tables, in which he states that, on all the routes, the amount reported will be subject to increase when the minor undulations of the ground shall be measured ; and this increase will be greatest on those routes and in those portions where the features of the country are less regular—that is, where there are most of such minor undula- tions to be measured. The equated distances also affect the cost of working a road only under certain circumstances, which may or may not exist on the contemplated route.

A comparison of the results stated above, and of those exhibited in the tables referred to, conclusively shows that the route of the 32d parallel is, of those surveyed, ‘‘the most prac- ticable and economical route for a railroad from the Mississippi river to the Pacific ocean.’’

This is the shortest route; and not only is its estimated cost less by a third than that of any other of the lines, but the character of the work required is such that it could be executed in a vastly shorter period. It is obvious that a road on any of these routes, with the exception perhaps of the 47th parallel, must be built continuously from the two extremities, and an obstacle that arrests its progress at any point defers the commencement of all the work in advance. The tunnels and much of the other work on the more northerly routes in the most desolate regions are such as could not be commenced until a road was constructed up to those points, and would then require a long period for their completion.

On the southernmost route, on the contrary, the progress of the work will be regulated chiefly by the speed with which cross-ties and rails can be delivered and laid, the nature of the country being such that throughout the whole line the road-bed can easily be prepared in advance of the superstructure. The few difficult points, such as the Pass of the Guadalupe and Hueco mountains, and the passes between the Rio Grande and Gila, would delay the work but an inconsiderable period.

This peculiarity of the ground presents another advantage in the fact that temporary tracks could be laid upon the natural surface of the earth to almost any extent, to serve for the trans- portation ot materials and supplies. ¥

The climate on this route is such as to cause less interruption to the work than on any other route.

Not only is this the shortest and least costly route to the Pacific, but it is the shortest and cheapest route to San Francisco, the greatest commercial city on our western coast: while the aggregate length of railroad lines connecting it at its eastern terminus with the Atlantic

30 CONCLUSION.

and Gulf seaports is less than the aggregate connexion with any other route, as will be seen by reference to the appended table B.

With regard to the circumstances which affect the cost of working and maintaining the road, they are more favorable than on any other route. In this dry climate the decay of cross-ties and other timber would be very slow, and the absence of severe frost would have a most important influence upon the permanence of the road-bed, and heavier grades could be adopted than in a climate where ice and snow prevail.

The snows on all the other routes, except that of the 35th parallel, could not fail at certain seasons to suspend the working of the road, for on all, such snows are known to have fallen as would interpose an effectual barrier to the passage of trains. Such an occurrence in this desolate region would be attended with more serious consequences than in inhabited districts.

In only one important respect is this route supposed to be less favorable than some of the others, and that is, in the supply of fuel. The difference, however, in favor of the others is not great, unless the existence of coal at certain points along those routes where it is indicated should be verified by further examination. The cost of fuel is about one-fifth of the whole expense of maintaining and working a railroad.

The grades of the several routes, and other similar information, will be found upon the sheets of profiles compiled in the office.

In the determination of the explorations proper to be made—in the examination of the reports of the suveying parties, the preparation of the profiles, and of a general map to exhibit, in their geographical relation to each, all the routes of which an instrumental examination had been made—I am greatly indebted to the assistance which has been rendered by the officers of the corps of topographical engineers employed in the office established here in connexion with the explorations directed by the act; and I will here especially acknowledge my obliga- tions to Major W. H. Emory, whose extensive knowledge of the western regions of our country, no small part of which he had actually explored, and whose sound judgment in all things con- nected with topographical reconnaissances and field operations, gave me important aid in the or- ganization of the work and the subsequent office examinations necessary to systematize its results.

When, in August, 1854, Major Emory’s duties as commissioner to run the boundary- line between Mexico and the United States separated him from further connexion with these explorations, he was succeeded by Capt. A. A. Humphreys, whose high scientific attainments and power of exact analysis had been manifested in several important positions which he had held, and are further shown in the able and comprehensive examination, herewith sub- mitted, of the reports of the several parties of exploration.

Lieut. G. K. Warren, first under Major Emory, and subsequently under Captain Humphreys, has been specially intrusted with the preparation of the material and the construction of the general map, together with the compilation of profiles of all the routes which had been instru- mentally surveyed, and the collection of all general information which would aid in the determination of the question before the department. In these duties he has recently had the zealous and efficient aid of Lieut. H. L. Abbott.

These laborious and important duties have been performed by the officers above named with the most commendable diligence and intelligence, and much of whatever success belongs to the preparation and presentation of the matter collected is due to these ofticers.

Capt. McClellan, of the corps of enginers, after the completion of his field operations, was directed to visit various railroads, and to collect information of facts established in the con- struction and working of existing roads, to serve as data in determining the practicability of constructing and working roads over the several routes explored. The results of his inquiries will be found in a very valuable memoir herewith submitted.

Very respectfully, your obedient servant, JEFEF’N DAVIS, Secretary of War.

Hon. Linn Boyp,

Speaker of the House of Representatives.

TABLE OF LENGTHS, ETO. 31 A.

Table showing the lengths, sums of ascents and descents, equated lengths, cost, &e., of the several routes explored for a railroad from the Mississippi to the Pacific. (For the grades, see the profiles accompanying the report.)

Sterile region.

: J a S 2 Me = “ oO =D = oe z 5 Sirois 2 58 3 =! a La q =] Ssiho = Ss cA =z 2 = esi-e 3 = = 5 5 = \ Se |E= = o a 2 = len =e lsolea a . = i Dike o = ../2 S ESiz5 S ol) Sh alse = ESlE 2 |Sa|58 ra Sere ee Slee 5S [else 85 = a = sm ° @}2 s jegle2 = Sb Se a ma 3 SVE = jasiad | ws €|/¢| 8 |se 3 |zelé Peleelszlsleleleleleissls= Se ers & SE = 35/7 s\e=|8 18 (SSIS (SS 2 | 2 2 = be poe ee eeissltsolale|eolol|alale| EN ees B15 ea o Im SESsleSls ls lslclsls isle] & 5 $ P § Si ols Ao VS sha halsl els slsia = g coe en S a fe Sse st] ee |] se lelalalalajal se a 3 = | = a | PLS" 1S 1s |o lelelelelele| = 3 = & =| § 5 : te : -S1S/S l/eisisisieis) & 2 a =] 5) So Ss ° Ss ° Ss1eare isis /sle isis) 2 a i=} n 4 S) Zz 12 2 |2 ala l|rldiloiK je | 2 Miles.| Miles.| Feet. | Miles. Feet.

Route near 47th and 49th | 1,445] 1,864/18, 100) 2,207/*#130,781,000| 374! 1,490} || 1,000) 470} 580) 720) 130) 97) 28)...|... .| 6,044) Tunnel at ele- purallels, from St. Paul van of 5,219 to Vancouver. feet.

Extension thence to Seattle|...... 161] 1,000} 180) *10,090,000} 161],... ...] ....... 161

Route nearthe 41st and 42d | 1,410] 2, 032/29, 120) 2,583! 116,095,000) 632} 1,400) |j 1,100} 180) 170) 210) 160/580/2=5/270) 107/20). .| 8,373) parallels, via South Pass trom Council Bluffs to Benicia.

y Route near the 38th and| 1,740) 2,080/49, 986] 3,125\Cost so great) 620) 1,460} || 1,100) 340) 276) 165) 348)466)170) 60/155,80/2010, 032) Tunnel at ele- 39th parallels,from West- that the road vat'n of 9,540 port to San Francisco by is impracti- feet. the Coo-che-to-pa and cable.

Tah-ee-chay-pah Passes. The same, from Westport} 1,740) 2,290|56,514] 3,360)..,..do.....| 670) 1,620] 1,100) 275) 308) 190} 143)725)284)110/155 80 20:10, 032) Tunnel at ele-

to San Francisco by the vat?n of 9,540

Coo-che-to-pa and Ma- feet.

delin Passes.

Route near the 35th paral-| 1,360) 1,892/48, 819] 2,816) + 169,210,265| 416] 1,476} 2,300) 305) 347) 260) 185/160)305/235) 95 ..)..| 7,472 jel, from Fort Smith to San Pedro.

Branch road to San Fran-}......] 406] 7,500) 506) 19,935,000) 322) 84)........| 290] 10) 72) 35) ~ e1seo, from the Mohave river.

Route near the 32d paral-| 1,400] 1,618|32,784] 2,239] 68,970,000] 408} 1,210) 2,300) 485) 300) 100) 170/503) 60}...)...)..)..| 5,717, Jel, from Fulton to San Pedro.

Extensionto San Francisco}......| 440/10,150) 632) 25,100,000) 376; 70) ..00e20/9290) 50) 65) 35

REE EEE Eee

*These are the estimates of the office, those of Gov. Stevens having been brought to the same standard of increased cost as the other routes, and his equipment reduced to that of the other routes. His estimates were $117,121,000 and $7,030,000.

+ Supposing the route to be a straight line, with uniform descent from the Un-kuk-oo-ap mountains (near Sevier river) to the entrance of the Tah-ee- chay-pah Pass, the most favorable supposition. <

t This estimate for the route near the 35th parallel is thought to be largely in excess.

|| These sums do not include the areas of cultivable soil as far west as the Cascade and Sierra Nevada mountains,

The sum of the minor undulations (not included in the sum of ascents and descents here given) will probably be greater for the route of the 47th parallel than for the other routes ; that for the route near the 32d parallel will probably be the least of all.

With the amount of work estimated for the roads in this report, the equated lengths corresp nding to the sum of ascents and descents has but little practical value. With a full equipment and heavy freight business, the sum of ascents and descents becomes important. A comparison of the degree of curvature of the routes cannot be made.

NOTE TO TABLE A.

The sum of the ascents and descents given for the various routes, does not take into con- sideration those minor undulations which sometimes largely increase the aggregate.

I think it probable that when detailed surveys are made, it will be found that this sum for the route near the 47th parallel will be more increased than those for the other routes, and that the sum for the route near the 32d parallel will be less increased than the others.

The equated lengths corresponding to these sums, may give erroneous impressions. If the loads to be habitually carried over the roads are within the power of the engines over the greatest grades proposed, then the sums of ascents and descents really have little meaning or value. The wear and tear of rail and machinery, and consumption of fuel, would be some- what greater on the road having the largest sum; but the difference would not be worth taking into account, unless there was an equality in all other respects between the routes.

If there are some grades so steep as to require the division of the loads habitually carried over other portions, the cost of the extra locomotives, and of working them over those portions, will show the extent of the disadvantage and yearly cost.

32 TABLE OF DISTANCES, ETC.

So far as any estimate has been made by me of the amount of work to be done on the roads, these sums of ascents and descents have little practical value, since those portions of the routes have been indicated where it may be considered advisable to use steep natural slopes with extra engines, to expedite the completion of the road, and save expensive road-bed pre- paration. With a full equipment and heavy freight business, the sum of ascents and descents becomes important.

The nature of the surveys does not admit of a comparison of the degree of curvature on the several routes.

B.

Distances of the eastern termini of the several Pacific railroad routes to the Mississippi river, Boston, New York, Charleston, and New Orleans, by railroads built, building, and projected, as measured on the “* Railroad Maps.”’

Miles.

PENSt. eeaMleto DOStOne. ....ccecscccsoose sdede jag cbse oles baeseisascceuscietnees Caeser eee tere ceceaceeaae 1,316 COMNEW, VOT. 2. 0chsccheaele sass ocanismmancecemoeeeoabeeeseetcroae ste eaee ber aeroe eee Feeeeostiods 1,190

to Charleston. «scai iwcsco denser teneee cere eee een hone oe eestor osteo eee eeeee L193

to New, Orleans} obec eckceen. csp seca hen ean ctiec ste sideaes oNeetiested cuaeocanteessoreenee 1,198

FREER EO BUG, Gee nch onisbicnesessescestnaetteeitGetanen idee daceeshesecdh ce teneetaeameees 4,897

2. JOounel Biatiscto Rock Islands.( Miss: rivier)s. sits 5aas<acwasvaneesh dalleeenees Satebun ARREECe ae 267 DOMBOS COD sd devs coe autosedsaecccehinn dese tioceaee ahaa eer ck set eee eR Dee Ene See 1,374

GO SNe we WiOrki Mic. Scsistciite «abicice sun Seks See SAR eRe Emre ee aoe le SERIO GARE Scere 1,252

Go Charleston tactics danwncwoct avs oke Moneta swank th eee drone teencanec etme omens 1,195

to New Orleans. 5.55.20 VGoeis sess tvsetecccnce segue nose ane cep soeedccnseneteeeeeeee 1,075

PIG STOPBLOH sce ncchocsepocmmsh ya seaippesmmenees S500 JUnd EdaodonocsacoasqongaR0bN seers LOalGs

3. Westport, mouth of Kansas, (near Fort Leavenworth,) to St. Louis, (Miss. river)... 245 EO VOBCON.: 01e 0.0. sininisvetoeror & oceretetaye ofale Tetote ale iov olete ss ators eal sTois wlalclerejeeletacs vietelclore Satsieialsererais eR RInSTS 1,415

LOVING W VOLK iv ces cnc cece sotees veuis nepreisice dots etees an'in''sis(os «(os conntaepiinenths tee ee meh aie 1,220

to Charleston. scestecsasaduanntecnwts ots ancad cectiecn se aedecscens duslsccece teenies Nene e eels 1,045

to New Orleansycr xa.wereast vc ateanip Vanaetunins Ken Aeeedto av ceeee ner stite detetad aceee ence 875

NOON CO ALC tome amsnctedastercese teenctees IOSO00S000G02 00 0odo Te Sa oncaCooURSCOGKIC Sposooee 4,800

4, Fort Smith, on the Arkansas, to Memphis, (Miss. river) ..........ssssscesscesececeeeeeees 270 HOMBOSCOMS « siaid sects o8iattd Stes SRA Rs TENN so taR ee BO Oa w ee rene ee tee 1,540

tooNew. Lorkssccoccccincelaceveak wenseislertlan « deelaents Sagan ates eeaae va tena ee ae Cate se 1,345 GONCWarLEStON A g6 ci ase bist. alate ae eee dees atdeleatuele ta dtsten Sen ceeiane sekhireeeseeenintece 960

to NWewi Orleans... ccd. \rweeetlsate lle Steehe. cede edanee aces dndente deters memnmene 655

AP RVO PALO. .idnsnsinand%sspanesas dnimanftctans outs tig ad aeea tien eee 4,770

Bb. Fulton’ to. Gaines, : (Miss. TVET). ....aisspnsexsensnceaspaepdesussaanesusn gunn tasces ene 150 £0 DOStOU mess smewsosisoseoaas epieusace snanep aes sincpote tease hh eRn chee geccan tena s MTceeeaReEaener es 1,530

TO NEW WIOLK. . .sccsesiceesn canvases naneniceepalsioeasaes anecik saihces abe tea tan naan maaan araneh fc 1,335

£0 Ch aTlestOn wcsstprcscssencuchoserncseeteaes ew sas Sais aaera aA Agen ReaRmecat cap seo s5¢ 950

£0 New, Orleans. ...n.yccsce dazues'sp eet teeeesaaetiss saeateuep ane Meat aera de cn sasecc ns 402

Aggregate....... Ba Be Sdrakeatcats chs sPReaNTS RAN CaPERERARVEN AAR ave toesccanss ase) a

LIST OF DOCUMENTS. ; 33

LIST OF DOCUMENTS ACCOMPANYING THE REPORT OF THE SECRETARY OF WAR.

I,—Examination by Captain A. A. Humphreys, Topographical Engineers, of the reports of the explorations to determine the most practicable and economical route for a railroad from the Mississippi river to the Pacific ocean.

II.—Memoranda by Captain George B. McClellan, Corps of Engineers, upon some practical points connected with the construction and working of railways. II.—Letter of Major General Jesup, Quartermaster General U.S. A., upon the cost of trans- porting troops and supplies to California, Oregon, New Mexico, &c. IV.—Report of Governor I. I. Stevens upon the route near the 47th parallel. V.—Reports of Lieutenant E. G. Beckwith, 3d Regiment of Artillery, upon the routes near the 41st and 38th parallels. VI.—Report of Lieutenant A. W. Whipple, Topographical Engineers, upon the route near the 35th parallel. VII.—Report of Captain John Pope, Topographical Engineers, upon that portion of the route near the 32d parallel from Preston to the Rio Grande. VIII.—Report of Lieutenant John G. Parke, Topographical Engineers, upon that portion of the route near the 32d parallel from the Rio Grande to the Gila IX.—Extract from the report of Major W. H. Emory, Topographical Engineers, of a military reconnaissance made in 1846 and 1847. X.—Report of Lieutenant R. 8. Williamson, Topographical Engineers, of explorations in California in connexion with the routes near the 35th and 32d parallels,

5a

AN EXAMINATION

BY DIRECTION OF THE

HON. JEFFERSON DAVIS, SECRETARY OF WAR,

OF THE

REPORTS OF EXPLORATIONS FOR RAILROAD ROUTES

FROM

THE MISSISSIPPI TO THE PACIFIC, MADE UNDER THE ORDERS OF THE WAR DEPART-— MENT IN 1853-54, AND OF THE EXPLORATIONS MADE PREVIOUS TO THAT TIME, WHICH HAVE A BEARING UPON THE SUBJECT:

BY

CAPT. A. A. HUMPHREYS & LIEUT. G. K. WARREN,

CORPS TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS,

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Route of forty-seventh and forty-ninth parallels, from surveys under Gov. StOVONE In ebo—4 ee cece scenes come

CHAPTER I.

Route of forty-first and forty-second parallels, from surveys of Lieut. E. G. Beckwith, 3d artillery, 1852—Brevet Capt. J. C. Frémont, topographical engineers, in 1842-3—and Capt. Stansbury, in 1849 .....-.. SoS ASomesco sete

CHAPTER III.

Route of thirty-eighth and thirty-ninth parallels, from surveys under Capt. Gunnison, topographical engineers, and i Gity REL RO hi atie Btilrntl GaAs CER Rep snariqndss co sso™ Soocoa DOSES SOOO DAS RASOSS OOH Roe oscar E Saco sonsS

CHAPTER IY.

Route of thirty-fifth parallel, surveyed by Lieut. Whipple, topographical engineers, in 1853....-----.--.-..-------

CHAPTER YV.

Route of thirty-second parallel, surveyed by Capt. J. Pope, topographical engineers, from Preston to Dona Ana, 1853—Lieut. Parke, topographical engineers, from Dona Ana to Pimas Villages, 1853—Major Emory, topo- graphical engineers, from Pimas Villages to mouth of Gila, 1848—Lieut. Williamson, topographical engineers, in California, 1853 .......-.-.- SORE CHOC BOSS BES ORIN ie ea a= SSIS IRS Sn SEO Sem oe OTE op os aSecsc cones

CHAPTER VI.

Notes from Dr. Wislizenus’s report on the Cimarron route from Independence, Missouri, to Santa Fé, and from the reports of Col. Johnston, topographical engineers, Lieut. Smith, topographical engineers, Capt. S. G. French, United States artillery, and others, of the route from San Antonio to E] Paso....--....-..----- «-2------+ Roar tase

71

74

79

109

AN EXAMINATION

OF THE

REPORTS AND EXPLORATIONS FOR RAILROAD ROUTES FROM THE MISSISSIPPI TO THE PACIFIC.

War DEPARTMENT, Office of Pacific Railroad Surveys, Washington, February 5, 1855.

Srr: In accordance with your instructions, I submit the following result of the examination of the reports of the explorations, made under the orders of the War Department, to determine the most practicable and economical route for a railroad from the Mississippi to the Pacific; as well as of the explorations and surveys previously made which have a bearing upon this subject.

It has been found impossible to complete the general map of the country embracing these and former explorations, owing to the great amount of labor required in its preparation, the unfinished condition of the original maps and other data upon which it is to be founded; and the heavy duties imposed upon the officer having it in charge.

This map should be accompanied by a report giving the authorities and data upon which it rests, with explanations of the adjustment of discrepant authorities; and also a brief memoir upon the physical geography of the regions embraced within its limits. Such a memoir neces- sarily formed a preliminary to a report upon the most practicable and economical route for a rail- road from the Mississippi to the Pacific; but the unfinished condition of the maps and material collected in the departments of science necessary to elucidate the subject, and the insufficiency of the material, when prepared, for so comprehensive a subject, precluded the possibility of its being undertaken at the present time, more especially as the labors of all in the office were required in the preparation of the details necessary to discuss the greater or less degree of practicability and economy of each route separately.

The report herewith submitted partakes more of the character of memoranda upon the differ- ent routes, than of a report upon the whole subject; and, in fact, it was prepared as such, with the intention, principally, of aiding your examination of the reports of the officers charged with the explorations, rather than as a general report upon all the routes. These memoranda would have served as the basis of a general report, but time does not admit of their being placed in that shape, and they are consequently submitted in their present condition, with this explanation of the cause of their deficiency in comprehensiveness of matter, and in arrangement.

Upon relieving Major Emory, in August last, from the charge of the Pacific Railroad office, I found that the preparation of the material for the general map, a work of great labor, and the superintendence of its construction and drawing, had been intrusted to Lieut. G. K. Warren, topographical engineers, whose zeal and ability in the performance of this and the general office duty, Major Emory acknowledged in warm terms. Lieut. Warren has continued in charge of the office duties, which include the critical examination of the reports, maps, profiles, and all original data submitted by the exploring parties and others, and reports upon

38 REPORT.

the result; the preparation of the general map and its engraving; the compilation of profiles of all the routes recently explored and previously examined barometrically; the preparation of all the maps, profiles, and other drawings made in the office, comprising the duplication of the originals received from the exploring parties; the preparation of reports upon those routes and portions of routes and lines formerly explored, but not with a special view to the

railroad question. In addition to this, he has likewise largely aided me in making this

report.

This laborious service has been executed by him with great intelligence, zeal, and energy,

Lieut. H. L. Abbot, topographical engineers, was assigned to duty in this office in October last, and has most zealously aided Lieut. Warren in the compilation of the office profiles, and assisted me in investigations connected with this report.

I would especially call your attention to the admirable arrangement of the profiles which have been compiled in the office, by Lieuts. Warren and Abbot, exhibiting so well all the in- formation upon, and the data and statistics of the routes, (as far as it is possible to compress them into so small a space,) as to serve the purpose of a brief report.

In making this examination I have had the advantage of frequent personal conferences with the chiefs of the exploring parties, and with Dr. John Evans and W. P. Blake, esq., geologists.

I have also availed myself of the information contained in the memoranda upon various practical points connected with the construction and working of railroads; prepared in the office by Byt. Capt. George B. McClellan, corps of engineers, as suggested by my letter to the department of the 7th October last.

Very respectfully, your obedient servant, A. A. HUMPHREYS, Captain Topographical Engineers.

Hon. Jerrerson Davis,

Secretary of War.

CERAVE Tekike at ROUTE NEAR THE FORTY-SEVENTH AND FORTY-NINTH PARALLELS OF NORTH LATITUDE.

Although the report of Governor I. I. Stevens of his exploration of the northern route is clearly and forcibly written, yet, as all the facts bearing upon a particular portion of the route are not always to be found in one place, I have thought that it would facilitate the review to recapitulate the leading characteristics of the railroad route proposed, with such additional investigations and opinions as appeared to be necessary. The great extent of ground examined, the number of subjects treated, and the voluminous character of the report, seemed to require this somewhat laborious process.

The general direction and position of the extreme northern route is mainly determined by the following considerations:

1. From the great northern bend of the Missouri, (lat. 48° 30’, about,) near the mouth of White-earth river, to Council Bluffs, (lat. 43° 30’,) the river flows in a general southeast direc- tion. Throughout this portion of its course the country on either side is generally rough and broken; to the east lies the Coteau du Missouri, a high, rolling prairie, and to the west a rough and rugged country (including the ‘‘ Mauvaises Terres,’’ and excepting the smooth table-land divide between the Yellow Stone and Missouri) extends to the base of the mountains. ‘To the east and north, the Coteau du Missouri sinks into the prairie, and near the parallel of 49° can be completely turned. The northern route should, therefore, seek the shortest practicable line between this point and the navigable waters of the Mississippi. St. Paul, at the head of navigation of the Mississippi, appears the most suitable eastern terminus of the road. The manner in which these two points are connected will be discussed hereafter.

2. After passing the Coteau du Missouri, the valley of the Missouri and its tributaries, in direction and acclivity, furnish the best approach to the Rocky mountains, the passes of which, near the sources of the Missouri, in latitude 47°, have an elevation of about 6,000 feet, being nearly 1,500 feet lower than the Great South Pass.

3. The Rocky mountains once crossed, the route to the Pacific is then determined by the course of the tributaries of the Columbia.

Finally, the navigable character of the Missouri, of the Columbia, and of the great lakes, as well as the Mississippi—all of which can be made to aid in the construction of this road— gives to it, at first glance, a character of great importance. Its objectionable features are also apparent in its high northern latitude, and consequent severity of climate, which greatly detracts from the importance of the aid from navigation by obstructing the rivers with ice, and in the long intervals through which labor in the open air must be suspended, and, finally, in its contiguity to the soil of a powerful foreign sovereignty.

The northern railroad route may be said to commence at St. Paul, in about latitude 45°, at the head of steamboat navigation of the Mississippi. The road ascends the left bank of the Mississippi, passing over fertile prairies or oak uplands to Little Falls, the best point for crossing the river, a distance of 109 miles, without rock-cutting, and with light grades, seldom exceed- ing ten feet per mile. For structures, both of wood and stone, the material is good, and near at hand,

Crossing the Mississippi river with 325 feet of bridge, the line is directed to the prairie of the Bois des Sioux, an extensive flat plain. Between this and the Mississippi is a high, rolling prairie, forming part of the divide between the waters of Hudson’s bay and those of the Mis-

40 ROUTE NEAR THE FORTY-SEVENTH AND FORTY-NINTH PARALLELS.

sissippi. The road passes successively through a wooded and fertile prairie country, and crosses the tributaries of the Minnesota river at their sources. From the Mississippi to the Bois des Sioux the distance is 110 miles; the rise is about 750 feet; the grades generally ten feet per mile, though occasionally thirty feet. Lumber and stone are to be supplied from the Mississippi and west of it; the excavation and embankments are light.

The line passes for 40 miles over the almost absolute plain of the Bois des Sioux, leaving its western edge near and north of Dead Colt Hillock, here entering the rolling prairie, keep- ing south of the Shayenne river, whose valley is 150 to 200 feet below the general level of the prairie, and along the dividing ridge between it and the Riviére 4 Jacques; then crossing the latter river at a width of 120 feet, it is directed towards the valley of Mouse river, bounded on the south by the high plateau of the Coteau du Missouri. Keeping along the base of the coteau, to avoid the deep coulées of Mouse river,* and its tributary, Riviére des Lacs, the coteau is turned, near the head of the latter river, by the Grande Coulée, and with a grade not exceed- ing 40 feet per mile, the line passes to the bottom lands of the Missouri, near the mouth of Big Muddy river, about 30 miles west of Fort Union. Steamboats of two-feet draught can at all times, when not obstructed by ice, ascend the Missouri to Fort Union, the trip up from St. Louis occupying 42 days, and back 17 days. The total rise in this distance (about 400 miles) from the prairie of the Bois des Sioux to the Missouri is 700 feet. From Dead Colt Hillock to the valley of Mouse river, 200 miles, the country is in part undulating, rising gradually.

The earth-work from the Mississippi to the Missouri will be neither heavy nor expensive, and no rock excavation, except in crossing the ‘‘divide into the valley of the Missouri. The grades need not exceed 30 feet per mile, and will rarely be so great.”

For 400 miles of this portion of the route, wood for building and fuel (if wood be used for, it) must be obtained from the Red River of the North, and from the bottom lands of Mouse river. But little stone for masonry is needed. Excellent sandstone can be obtained in the vicinity of the Butte de Maison du Chien, near which the line enters the valley of Mouse river. Materials for good bricks are to be obtained on Red, Bois des Sioux, Shayenne, and Mouse rivers. From Camp Guthrie, on the Shayenne, to the Mouse River valley, (about 150 miles,) nearly one-half the small ponds and lakes are brackish and salt. The fresh-water ponds are, however, constantly interspersed and more abundant, and “occur quite as often as is desirable either for travelling or railroad purposes. With this abundant supply, no unusual construe- tion or expense will be required in establishing watering places.’’—Governor Stevens’s report.

Mr. Lander, the estimating engineer, says, ‘‘the portion extending through the salt-water region—the one under consideration—will need particular attention regarding a supply of pure water for the use of engines. The proper mode of overcoming this difficulty will be by extending an aqueduct along the line of the road from the lakes upon the Grand Coteau du Missouri.’’ An estimate for this purpose is made, and, including the cost of planting 640 acres of trees every 20 miles over — miles of the route, amounts to $2,000,000.

Should supplies of water be needed at points where it could not be furnished by the usual means, because of the small quantity of rain that falls, artesian wells might prove more economical, if the geological formations indicate their feasibility.

The position of the northern part of the Grande Coulée, by which the route leaves the valley of Riviére des Lacs and enters that of the Missouri, has been determined from an estimated distance of twenty miles from the odometer line. As represented upon the map, it approaches so close to the 49th parallel (about two miles from it) that, without more accurate determination, it cannot be known whether the route, as here projected, may not pass over British territory.

* Mouse river, next to the Red River of the North, is the most important river on the route between the Mississippi and

Missouri. It flows in a deep, wide valley 200 feet below the prairie-level, with a wooded bottom from one-half to two miles wide, its high and steep banks being cut by deep coulées extending ten and fifteen miles into the prairie.

ROUTE NEAR THE FORTY-SEVENTH AND FORTY-NINTH PARALLELS, 41

After reaching the Missouri, the line follows the valley of this stream to the mouth of Milk river, 120 miles from Fort Union, then ascends the valley of Milk river, 187 miles, the erades rarely exceeding the river-slopes, (the Missouri being one foot per mile, the Milk three feet per mile,) with an average embankment of eight feet, and with but little rock excavation, and that in soft sandstone. The river bottoms, composed of clay and sand, are soft and sloppy in wet weather, and parched and cracked during the dry season. As the Rocky mount- ains are approached, the country bordering the Missouri river is rough and broken; nearer the mountains, prairies afford more favorable ground for location.

Having turned the Bear’s Paw mountains, lying between the Milk and Missouri rivers, the line leaves the valley of Milk river and rises to the prairie, with a grade of thirty-five feet per mile, taking a southwest direction towards the passes in the Rocky mountains, which lie near the 47th parallel of latitude, crossing in its course the Maria’s and Teton rivers with grades of forty feet per mile, and the Sun river without difficulty, the whole distance being about 440 miles.

The cotton-wood of the Missouri and Milk rivers not being suitable for building material, except for a temporary road, by which to build the permanent one, this portion of the route is dependent upon the pine of the Trois Buttes mountain, (sleepers for 300 miles single track from this source,) of the Rocky mountains, and of the mountains south of Fort Benton. Good sandstone is to be found near Fort Union, at the crossing of Milk river, and at the Trois Buttes; lime near Fort Union, the Trois Buttes, and the Rocky mountains; clay, for brick, on the Missouri and Milk rivers; and sand in the beds of the rivers, though not abundant, in a clean state.

If cotton-wood cannot be used as fuel, we have on this route spaces of 100, 200, and 400, or 500 miles between the points of supply; that is, 200 miles from the Red river supply to that of the Mouse river; 400 miles from the Mouse river supply to that of the Bear’s Paw, or 500 to that of the Trois Buttes; and from the Trois Buttes to the Rocky mountain supply, not less than 100 miles. The supplies of lumber are the same as for fuel.

At what distances apart large supplies of water can be had from the Red River of the North to Maria’s river is not stated. The rivers along which the road runs cannot alwaye be relied upon for it, since the road is immediately under the bluffs of the valley, and the small streams are dry in summer, and so of the ponds on the prairies; both in extreme dry and hot seasons, and in the winter, there would be deticieucies. The high plateaux making back from these rivers, it is thought, will afford the means of securing, by reservoirs, ample supplies. The precise data upon which this opinion is formed are not given; the number, capacity, and posi- tion of the ponds or small lakes proposed to be used are not stated, nor the distances at which the reservoirs can be made.

Between the Maria’s and Sun rivers, Grizzly Bear lake is indicated as a point of supply. From the Bois des Sioux to Riviére 4 Jacques is about 120 miles. From Riviére a Jacques to Butte de Maison, where probably the ponds of the Coteau du Missouri could give a large supply of water, is 115 miles. Thence to head of Riviere des Lacs, 120 miles. Thence to mouth of Big Muddy, on the Missouri, 120, &c. There can be no doubt that supplies of water at these distances can be got during all seasons, which may be made to answer for rail- road purposes, though not sufficient for working parties.

The line has now reached the base of the Rocky mountains, and an elevation, where it may enter the passes through them, of 4,700 feet above the sea.

In deciding upon the route by which the road should cross this mountain chain, regard must be had, not only to the difficulties of approach to the passes and the difficulties in the passes, but also to the best pass (from every consideration) of the Bitter Root mountains.

This last is a secondary mountain chain lying west of the principal, separating from it in about latitude 45° 30’, and running northward and westward into the British possessions. Flowing in the valley, between these two chains, are the Flathead and St. Mary’s or Bitter

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42 ROUTE NEAR THE FORTY-SEVENTH AND FORTY-NINTH PARALLELS.

Root rivers; the former rising in about latitude 48° 30’, and running south, and the latter rising in about latitude 45° 30’, and running north. As these two streams approach each other a spur from the Rocky mountains turns them towards the west. Their junction forms Clark’s fork of the Columbia, a clear, rapid river, from 150 to 200 yards wide, rarely fordable, which has forced a passage through the Bitter Root mountains; this pass was adopted for the railroad route.

Seven passes in the Rocky mountains were examined ; they lie between latitude 48° 30’ and latitude 45° 30’.

Beginning at the north, in about latitude 48° 30/, is the Maria’s Pass, leading from the Maria’s river to the Flathead river. It is not desirable in direction, unless a route leading westward be found north of Clark’s fork. The tunnel, at its summit, would be at an elevation of 8,000 or 8,500 feet; about the limit of perpetual snow in that latitude. On the west, the fall in seventeen miles would be 2,170 feet. The great severity of the climate would of itself render this pass almost impracticable. About the 20th of October, Mr. Tinkham found the snow-banks of the previous winter still lying upon the shaded borders of the small lakes or ponds on the eastern slopes at an elevation of about 5,600 feet. The instruments used by Mr. Tinkham were a barometer and pocket-compass.

The next pass is that of Lewis and Clark, connecting the head-waters of Dearborn and Black- foot rivers—the former a tributary of the Missouri, the latter of the St. Mary’s. The summit ridge has an elevation of 6,323 feet, which must be pierced by a tunnel two and a half miles long, through rock, at an elevation of 5,300 feet; grades of approach from the east forty feet to the mile, and of descent to the valley of Blackfoot river, ‘‘it is believed,’ will not exceed fifty feet per mile.

The examination of this pass was made by Mr. Lander; his instruments were a barometer and pocket-compass. He abandoned the examination (the reasons for it are not, to my appre- hension, contained in the extracts from his report) seven and a half miles west of the summit, and four and a half miles before reaching the route of the main party that entered the valley of Blackfoot river by Cadotte’s Pass. The connexion of Lewis and Clark’s Pass with the valley of the Blackfoot river has not, then, been made, though ‘¢ believed practicable at grades not exceeding fifty feet per mile.’’ This pass should be gone over instrumentally before its practicability can be considered demoustrated, Tt has been adopted in the railroad estimate, and is probably practicable.

The next pass is Cadotte’s, connecting a tributary of Dearborn river with a tributary of the Blackfoot river. The approach to this pass is practicable, though difficult, owing to the numerous deep ravines of the tributaries of Beaver creek, a northern branch of Dearborn river, over which the road must cross in approaching the pass from Sun river. The summit of the pass has an elevation of 6,044 feet; will require a tunnel 4} miles long (fifty per cent. of cutting in clay slate,) at an elevation of 5,000 feet, with grades of sixty feet approaching from the east, and forty feet per mile from the west. The pass itself is difficult.

The main train of the exploring party passed over this route, the instruments used being a barometer, odometer, and Schmalkalder compass. It follows the valley of Blackfoot river, generally narrow and wooded, to its junction with the Hell-Gate, a distance from the summit of ninety-three miles. For twenty miles before this junction there is a narrow gorge ending in Hell-Gate. From the narrowness of the valley and winding of the stream, it will be necessary to cross frequently from side to side, and the bridging will be expensive from the absence of stone suitable for building material, the nearest point of supply known being in Flathead River valley, seventy miles distant from Hell-Gate. The grades will vary from thirty-five to forty- five feet per mile.

The Blackfoot river joins the Hell-Gate river just before the latter makes the passage of the gorge from which it derives its name, the Hell-Gate river itself being a tributary of the St. Mary’s. At the head of the Liddle Blackfoot (another tributary of the Hell-Gate, coming from

ROUTE NEAR THE FORTY-SEVENTH AND FORTY-NINTH PARALLELS. 43

the east,) two passes in the Rocky mountains, in latitude 46° 30’, were explored. They are sometimes called the Northern and Southern Little Blackfoot Passes, but named in Governor Stevens’s map as the Hell-Gate Passes. They connect between the waters of the Little Black- foot and Prickly-Pear creeks.

South of these, in latitude 45° 45’, another pass was examined, called the Hell-Gate Pass. It connects the south fork of Hell-Gate with a branch of Wisdom river. And still further south, in latitude 45° 38’, another pass, called the Big Hole Mountain or St. Mary’s Pass, was explored, connecting the waters of St. Mary’s river with a fork of Wisdom river. These last four passes are all reported as probably practicable; but as the southern Little Blackfoot, Hell- Gate, and St. Mary’s Passes received no instrumental examination, as the last-named is out of direction, and the two former involve a considerable detour from the route of the Missouri, are approached with difficulty, and will only become important should a good route or routes be found through the Black Hills to the Mississippi, it is unnecessary to note them further. The profiles of the northern Little Blackfoot with its approaches from the Missouri, of the valleys of the Little Blackfoot and of part of the Hell-Gate river, were determined by Mr. Tinkham, his instruments consisting of a barometer and pocket-compass.

The approach by this route is over a broken region of country, and a better approach, it is thought, will be found north of the Missouri, nearer the base of the mountains, along the line examined by Lieutenant Mullan. The elevation of the summit is 6,250 feet; a tunnel of two miles will be required. The eastern approach is estimated practicable with grades of fifty or sixty feet per mile, and the western descent with a grade of thirty feet to the mile. A thorough examination of this route is recommended in connexion with the other passes in this vicinity. It is unnecessary, therefore, to consider it further, since the data are still too imperfect to enable us to form certain conclusions.

Three passes through the Bitter Root mountains were explored; a fourth was subsequently examined, but has not yet been reported upon; a fifth pass, the northern Nez Percés, it was not considered necessary to examine.

The passes reported upon are that of Clark’s fork, which has been adopted as being the least difficult; the Coeur d’ Alene Pass, by the Coeur d’Alene Mission, and the southern Nez Percés trail. Beginning at the south, the southern Nez Percés trail, leading from the head of St. Mary’s river to the head of a tributary of the Snake river, (the southern fork of the Columbia) was examined by Mr. Tinkham, in the latter part of November and first half of December ; his instruments were a barometer and pocket-compass until the former was cached. From the great height of the summit, 8,000 feet, and the great depth of snow so early in the season, it is not necessary to consider this pass. It is probably impracticable.

The northern Nez Percés trail is reported to be of the same character.

The Cceur d’ Alene Pass, leading from the Bitter Root near its junction with the Flathead to the Spokane river, if found to be practicable, would give a route to Wallah-Wallah seventy miles shorter than that by Clark’s fork; but as no instruments for measuring vertical or hori- zontal distances were carried with the party that examined this route, its practicability cannot be considered established, but merely such information gained as serves to show that it is probably practicable, and that an instrumental profile should be taken. :

The pass of Clark’s fork formed by the passage of the river through the Bitter Root mount- ains, along which the main party travelled, is practicable.

It will be noticed that the passes of Lewis and Clark, and Cadotte, give the most direct route from the line east of the Rocky mountains to this pass.

We will now return to the line of the main party at Hell-Gate, the termination of the Black- foot valley. From this point two lines were examined to Clark’s fork. One follows the valley of the Bitter Root to Clark’s fork; the other crosses a dividing ridge to the valley of Jocko river, keeping along this stream to its junction with the Flathead, which it then follows to Clark’s fork,

a

44 ROUTE NEAR THE FORTY-SEVENTH AND FORTY-NINTH PARALLELS.

Of the first, Governor Stevens says: ‘‘The route will be long, in consequence of the curves of the river, “and will involve curves of the minimum radius, numerous bridge-crossings, con- siderable side-cutting, and high embankments on the prairie portions, in consequence of the spring freshets (twenty to thirty feet vertical rise.) The rock, in side-cuttings, can be easily quarried. The greater portion of this route has been personally examined by me, and I am satisfied of its practicability, though at great expense.’’

Mr. Lander, in whose judgment and experience Governor Stevens placed great confidence, says of this portion of the route: ‘* The*descent of the Bitter Root is very severe. The general grade of the river-valley for that distance is not great (11,1, feet per mile,) but the changes in level are abrupt, the valley extremely narrow and crooked; sharp curvature and steep gradients will be needed under any system of location, and, by the best mode of conquering these difficulties, the line will be extreme in cost and nearly impracticable.’’

The only instrument used on this examination was a pocket-compass. Governor Stevens’s party left the Bitter Root at the debouche of the Coeur d’ Alene Pass, and Mr. Lander ata point several miles before reaching Clark’s fork. The topographer of the expedition, Mr. Lambert, describes this unexamined portion of the Bitter Root as a cation, but in conversation I find that his description was inferred from partial information, and was not intended to mean that the mountain-sides closing in upon the river were vertical walls. Dr. Suckley makes no special mention of it. In respect to this portion of the route, he says: ‘‘ The numer- ous very short curves, obliging frequent crossings by strong bridges, the great length of the route if the river is followed, the steep banks, and the high-raised work necessary to prevent the encroachinents of the freshets, (which in many places rise from twenty to thirty feet above the common level,) will all render this part of the road exceedingly expensive.’’ In view of the difficulties to be encountered on this line, and of the nature of the reconnaissance of it, it should not be considered practicable until more exact data are obtained upon which to form a correct opinion.

By the second line to Clark’s fork: To overcome the summit of the Jocko divide, 852 feet above Hell-Gate, the approach will require a grade of sixty feet, and the descent to the valley of the Jocko a grade of sixty feet, both for short distances, with heavy embankments, and prob- ably a lofty bridge. Lieutenant Donelson is of opinion that these grades may be reduced to forty-five and forty feet. Along the valley of .the Jocko and Flathead rivers, on their left banks to Clark’s fork, the grade will be twenty feet per mile. Ten or twelve miles before reaching Clark’s fork, the mountains close in upon the river with steep slopes and rough pro- jecting rocks. The heavy growth of timber obliged the party to leave the river, returning to it again at Horse Plain on Clark’s fork, a few miles below the junction of the Bitter Root and Flathead. This portion of the Flathead, like that of the Bitter Root, is described by Mr. Lambert asacaton. The distance to Horse Plain from Hell-Gate by the Jocko is 70 miles, by the Bitter Root 95 miles.

A better connection with the Flathead can probably be made by leaving the Blackfoot valley above the defile ; further examination is necessary to establish this, however.

Lieutenant Donelson says the average fall of Clark’s fork is eleven feet per mile, and he estimates that the railroad could descend with gradients of from fifteen to twenty feet per mile. With the exception of occasional small prairies, marked on the map, ‘its valley throughout is heavily timbered, mainly with pine. At several points on the route the rocky hill-sides crowd upon the river, and all deep-cutting will probably expose the rock, appa- rently, in general, a species of limestone or trap.

The line crosses the Flathead some miles above its junction with Clark’s fork, (or Bitter Root?) continues on the right bank as far as Big Rock; then crosses Clark’s fork, following the left bank, and recrosses at the Cabinet mountain. Tunnelling the Cabinet mountain 300 yards through 50 per cent. basaltic rock, it would continue on the right bank of the river to

ROUTE NEAR THE FORTY-SEVENTH AND FORTY-NINTH PARALLELS. 45

Lake Pend d’Oreille, and on the western side of the lake to its lower extremity. The river and lake are subject to freshets fifteen feet in height.

The summit separating Clark’s fork and Spokane river is about 800 feet above the level at which these two rivers are crossed. The transit could be made, Lieutenant Donelson reports, with gradients not exceeding twenty-five feet per mile, though Governor Stevens says forty feet. The mountain region ends near the crossing of Spokane river. Mr. Lander, in continuation, after reporting upon the Bitter Root, says: ‘‘ From the junction of the Bitter Root with Clark’s fork to the crossing of Clark’s fork, below Lake Pend d’Oreille, the line assumes a more favorable character; and, although still severe, may be readily adjusted to reasonable rate of curvature and grade. The crossing of the summit section, between Lake Pend d’ Oreille and the valley of the Spokane, is very favorable, and can be made upon gradients of forty feet per mile. All great difficulties of location upon the route cease at the valley of the Spo- kane.’’

Regarding the subject of construction west of the Rocky mountain summit, the line passes, in nearly its whole extent, through forests which could furnish an abundance of pine and cedar of fine quality, and of fir and larch. The rafting of lumber cannot be carried on above Horse Plain, though it is probable that logs can be run in the freshets from the heads of the tribu- taries of Clark’s fork. Lieutenant Donelson saw no good stone for building over this space. A locality on the Blackfoot, not far from Hell-Gate, another at Big Rock, (on Clark’s fork,) and the mountains on the right of Clark’s fork, for some distance below Thompson’s prairie, would furnish stone in great abundance, which would answer for ordinary purposes. Mr. Tinkham states that not far from the Hudson Bay Company’s post, among the Flatheads, good limestone for building could be obtained. Good granite is found on the Columbia, 140 miles above the mouth of the Yakima. Dr. Evans, geologist, informs me that stone will be found throughout this section at distances sufficiently near to obviate excessive cost. Sand can be obtained from Clark’s fork, Pend d’Oreille lake, and elsewhere. The earth excavation and em- bankment throughout this section (from the east base of the Rocky mountains to the Spokane river) will be large in amount, and expensive. In all the mountain valleys the deep side-hill cuttings will frequently expose rock, and the bulk of the rock excavation in the entire railroad route will be in this section.

It is evident that throughout this section, from the entrance of the Rocky Mountain Pass to the crossing of the Spokane, a distance of 365 miles, the difficulties of construction will be very great; and that even if the two extremities rested upon thickly inhabited districts, the cost would be excessive.

Upon the passes of the Rocky mountains, Governor Stevens says:

<<Tt is not doubted there are other passes in this portion of the Rocky mountain range, even better than those explored; they are indicated by the general depression of the mount- ain range, with the greater frequency of the streams stretching out to meet each other from the opposite slopes of the mountains ; and I consider it important that, in future operations, a whole season should be devoted to their thorough examination, and that instrumental sur- veys should be made of the pass found to be the most practicable.’’

The region between the Coeur d’Alene mountains and the Cascade range, a space of 200 miles, is called the Great Plain of Columbia, or the Spokane Plain. It is a table-land, whose central and western portions are of trap formation, and are described on the map as sandy, rocky, and sterile. Its summit, some 800 feet above the level of the crossing of the Spokane, could probably be attained with gradients of 35 feet, the descent to the crossing of the Colum- bia river (near the junction of the Snake river) with grades of 30 feet, and from thence to Wallah-Wallah, 10 miles further, with grades of 20 feet. From the crossing of the Spokane to the crossing of the Columbia it is about 140 miles, 110 of which are over the treeless plain of the Columbia. The river is here from 400 to 450 yards wide, with good approaches. The earth excavation and embankment will not probably exceed the heaviest work of the prairies

46 ROUTE NEAR THE FORTY-SEVENTH AND FORTY-NINTH PARALLELS.

east of the mountains. <A portion of the excavation on the first part of the Spokane Plain will be rock (basaltic trap.) Its eastern end rests upon the pine, cedar, and larch districts of the Columbia.

Lumber can be brought down the Columbia to its western end, and also from the Yakima, 100 miles above its mouth. Good granite is found on the Columbia, 140 miles above the mouth of the Yakima.

Within our territory, nearly the whole space between the Columbia river (its general course being from north to south) and Puget sound, is occupied by the Cascade mountains, with their secondary chains, spurs, and high, broken table-lands. Through these mountain masses, between the parallels of 45° 30’ and 49° north latitude, there are but two passes reported practicable for a railroad—that of the Columbia river, and that in which the north or main fork of the Yakima (a tributary of the Columbia) heads. This latter pass has been heretofore erroneously called Snoqualme Pass. The Yakima Pass gives the most direct route to Puget sound, the distance by it being 150 or 160 miles shorter than by the Columbia River Pass. The approach to it is by the valley of the Yakima. From the crossing of the Columbia to the commencement of the pine timber, 96 miles, the valley is wide, open, and terraced; the ground is sand, gravel, or loose stones. For 21 miles further, an open pine wood extends, with a light soil, sometimes gravelly. The grades are from 8 to 12} feet per mile. No diffi- culties of construction whatever are met with. From this point there are two methods of pass- ing the dividing ridge—one by a tunnel 4,000 yards long, 3,000 feet above the sea; the second by a tunnel of 11,840 yards, 2,400 feet above the sea. For the short tunnel the ascent of 895 feet is made in 184 miles, giving a grade, supposing it to be uniform, of 48.4 feet per mile, in fifty per cent. rock-cutting. The tunnel 4,000 yards long will pass through solid rock, (silicious conglomerate ;) thence to the falls of the Snoqualme, 45 miles from the tunnel, the road will be in side-cutting, (silicious conglomerate) with a grade of 59.8 feet per mile, suppos- ing it to be uniform. The distance to the falls of Snoqualme was travelled over and estimated to be greater by Mr. Tinkham, and the grade proportionately less. From the Snoqualme falls to Seattle, on Puget sound, it is about 30 miles; the first ten will require a grade of not more than 20 feet per mile, and the remaining 20 miles will pass over a level country. If the second tunnel be used, the 184 miles before reaching it will be with a grade of 15.2 feet per mile, with little side-cutting, through a thickly timbered country. The divide must be pierced by a tunnel 11,840 yards long, of a similar character to the short tunnel; the grade to the Snoqualme falls will then be 46.3 feet per mile, and the total length of the section 240 miles.

But the grades in both cases will be necessarily broken, and higher than the estimate in many places.

The elevations of the different points from the Columbia, to a point about three miles west of the summit, were taken with a barometer; the distances were estimated.

In conclusion, Captain McClellan states: ‘“‘I am of the opinion that the Yakima Pass is barely practicable, and that only at a high cost of time, labor, and money.’’ The depth of snow upon the summit of this pass has been much discussed. Captain McClellan, who made the reconnaissance, says, that he and his party spared no pains in inquiring of the Indians during the summer, fall, and winter, as to the quantity and nature of the snow in the mountains during the winter. We examined (he says) the snow-marks on the trees, (similar, he informs me, to those made by standing water on trees,) in the passes, &c. All the information obtained was consistent; and the resulting conclusion, that in ordinary winters there could not be less than from 20 to 25 feet of snow in the passes.

For the purpose of examining this point, Mr. Tinkham crossed the mountains from Wallah- Wallah to Seattle, by the Yakima Pass, during the month of January, passing the summit on the 21st of January. ‘For about six miles on the summit the snow was found to be six feet deep, with an occasional depth of seven, as also of four feet.’? ‘‘The whole breadth of snow, over twelve inches deep, was somewhat less than sixty miles in extent. Of this, about

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forty-five miles were two feet and upwards; about twenty miles were four feet and upwards; and six miles were six feet and upwards. All the snow was light and dry; it was the accumu- lated snows of the winter to January 21, deposited in successive layers of a few inches to two feet, which have generally lain undisturbed since their fall; and they present little obstruction to removal, in comparison with the compact drifted snows of the Atlantic States.’’

From the known effect of abrupt mountains, rising from plains, in increasing the precipita- tion of rain, it is not probable that less rain falls on the main chain of the Cascade mount- ains than at Puget sound, but rather more.

The mean amount of the winter rain at Steilacoom, on the sound, is 20.6 inches; the amount is nearly the same each winter. The yearly means of the winter rain, in the table of Governor 8.’s report, are erroneous, though the mean for the winter of several years is correct.

Snow occupies from ten to twelve times the bulk of an equal quantity of rain. The snow of the Cascade mountains is reported to be very dry and light, and the proportion between it and rain is probably greater than as 12 to 1. Assuming it to be 12, and supposing the pre- cipitation on these mountains, during December, January, and February, to be in the form of snow, we have at the close of February 20.6 feet of snow.

The mean temperatures at Steilacoom, Puget sound, from observations at the military post there for (four) years, are:

November, 46°.2 Fahr.; December, 38°.3 Fahr. ; January, 38°.1 Fahr.; February, 40°.7 Fahr.; March, 41°.8 Fahr. ; April, 48°.6 Fahr.

Applying the rule that for every 300 feet of elevation there is a decrease of 1° Fahr., we have for the temperatures of an elevation corresponding to that of the summit of the Sno- qualme or Yakima Pass—

November, 36°; December, 28°; January, 28°; February, 30°.7; March, 31°.8; April, 38°.6.

But from the barren and broken character of the mountain masses east of the Cascade crest, the abruptness of the eastern slopes of the main chain, and its great general elevation, 8,000 feet above the sea, with bare rocky peaks projecting above this height, the highest reaching an elevation of 15,000 or 16,000 feet, the temperature of the Yakima Pass must be lower than the rule of decrease of temperature for increase of elevation would give when applied to the temperature of Steilacoom. The influence of these causes is shown in the meteorological report of Lieut. Mowry, by which it will be seen that the climate of the Cascade range and the country east of it is very cold. Lieut. Mowry says, page 404, at Chequoss (a pass in the Cascade chain 4,000 feet above the sea,) on the summit of the Cascade range, August 9th, the thermometer indicated a temperature below the freezing-point, and ice formed to the thickness of half an inch. At the same time and place, strawberries were growing in great luxuriance and abundance. The Indians informed him that the snow fell there as early as No- vember, &c., &c.

Of the 8.69 inches of rain that fell during January at Steilacoom, 5.37 inches fell after the 26th ; and of the 20.7 inches rain that fell there during the winter (December, January, and February,) but 7.74 inches had fallen at the time Mr. 'Tinkham crossed the Yakima Pass, (21st January ;) that is, but little more than one-third of the whole quantity that fell during the winter. The above investigation is in accordance, then, with the facts as found by Mr. Tink- ham; but one-third of the snow had fallen when he crossed.

Lieut. Grover, in crossing from Clark’s fork to the Coeur d’ Alene prairie, between the 19th and the 22d of February, found 24 feet of very hard snow for the most part of the way, the elevation being about 2,000 and 2,500 feet. The country here is very dry, according to Lieut. Mowry.

It seems probable, from the foregoing investigation, that not less than 20 feet of snow is usually to be found on the summit of the Yakima Pass at the close of winter—gradually

48 ROUTE NEAR THE FORTY-SEVENTH AND FORTY-NINTH PARALLELS.

changing to 12 feet, 6 feet, &c., &c. But the question should not be considered settled until further examinations and an instrumental survey of the Yakima Pass are made.

The terminus of the road should be on Puget sound, and, from the report of Capt. McClel- lan, the harbor of Seattle would appear to be the most favorable on the eastern shore. To return to the crossing of the Columbia river near the mouth of Snake river.

Capt. McClellan states: ‘‘ With regard to the Columbia river, I am not prepared to speak so much in detail; the last barometer being broken hefore we reached there on our return, and for other good reasons, I passed down by water. Mr. Lander, however, travelled the greater part of the distance by land; and as his examination corroborates the opinion I formed atthe time, I shall content myself with expressing in general terms the nature of that pass.’’ His conclusion is, that ‘‘it is not only practicable, but remarkably favorable;”’ and, in his opinion, it would be desirable that an instrumental survey should be made of the Yakima Pass and the Columbia River Pass, should any more railroad explorations be made on this line. In conversation Capt. McClellan informed me, that the work on the route along the Columbia river, from the Dalles to near Vancouver, 90 miles, would be similar to that of the Hudson River railroad along the mountain region. Mr. Lander says, ‘‘the high floods to which the Columbia river is subject, are serious obstacles to obtaining the best location for cheap construction offered by its valley.’’ From observations made at Fort Van- couver, from May 8 to July 20, 1854, the rise of the river during the flood was 10 feet above spring level, and 17 feet above summer level.

Governor Stevens says: ‘‘The pass of the Columbia river, examined personally by myself as well as Captain McClellan and Mr. Lander, is remarkably favorable in its grades, which rarely exceed ten feet, in the ease with which debris from the ledges can be worked to form the embankments required to guard against freshets, and the great facility with which wood and stone, both of good quality, can be transported down the Columbia for purposes of con- struction. The only serious obstacle is Cape Horn mountain, which, to avoid sharp curvature, may require a tunnel seven hundred feet in length. The grades down the Columbia to near the mouth of the Cowlitz, and thence to Olympia, Steilacoom, or Seattle, will be small, the work light, and abundant materials of all kinds will be found for road-beds and super- structure.’’ The ascents and descents are estimated at 300 and 700 feet. On the Columbia the line is, for the most part of the way, located in the bottom lands of the river, and will rarely be forced from them to the rocky bluffs bordering its intervale. Between Wallah- Wallah and the Dalles Mr. Tinkham found it necessary in only two instances to: cross the rocky spurs jutting out from the river bluffs.

The bluffy country bordering the Columbia ceases near Cape Horn. From below the Dalles the woods commence, and continue to the head of Cowlitz river.

“‘The wide and comparatively flat and wooded valley of the Cowlitz connects with plains, sometimes of prairie and sometimes of woodland, extending to Puget sound, and which, although not fully explored, are sufficiently well known to insure the unusually favorable character of the country for the construction of a railway.”’

The total length from the crossing of the Columbia to Seattle is about 390 miles. The earth excavation will not probably exceed the heaviest work of the prairies east of the mount- ains, and is estimated not to exceed an average of seven to eight feet. The material for em- bankment is almost always of a superior character.

The amount of rock-cutting, with the exception of the portion of the line between the Dalles and Cape Horn, will be very small. The rock is generally a basaltic trap.

In reference to the facilities for construction upon Clark’s fork and on the Columbia, Gov- ernor Stevens says: ‘‘By improvements either in the bed of the river, or in the use of locks at several points on the Columbia and Clark’s fork, and by the substitution of rail where such im- provement is impracticable, itis not doubted that a continuous communication can be established from the mouth of the Columbia to the mouth of the Spokane, and probably to Colville, and

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from the Pend d’Oreille lake to Horse Plain. Rails will undoubtedly be required at several of the places, and transfer be made from steamer to steamer.”’

The total length of the route from St. Paul to Seattle, Puget sound, by the Columbia River Pass, is 2,025 miles, or 2,050 if the Bitter Root river is used instead of the Jocko; by the Yakima Pass, 1,870 and 1,845 miles respectively. The distances just given are taken along the line of location for the proposed railroad. They are nearly the same as those travelled, except on the prairies east of the Rocky mountains, and on the Spokane Plain, where the located line is shorter than that travelled over, there being no serious obstacles to the more direct course. The distances given differ from those used by Governor Stevens, owing to a revision which the maps have undergone since his report was written.

SOIL.

In the absence of the geological report of Dr. Evans, whose field duties in Washington and Oregon Territories have detained him there until recently, the information upon the character of the soil upon the route is not as full, detailed, and satisfactory as could be desired. Previous geological examinations, over portions as far west as about longitude 101° or 102°, show that the uncultivable region begins in about the same longitude on this route as in the latitude of the Arkansas.

From the geological information respecting the region between the meridian of 101° and the Spokane Plain imparted recently by Dr. Evans, from the report of Mr. Gibbs upon the section west of the Spokane, and after a close examination of the reports, the following general conclusions have been arrived at respecting the soil of the region traversed by the northern route.

From the Mississippi to the western border of the Plateau of the Bois des Sioux, in about the meridian of 98° west of Greenwich, the soil is fertile; the upper layer being composed of vegetable mould. Here it begins to be mixed with sand and gravel, the proportion of which ingredients increases as you proceed westward. From Fort Union to the foot of the mountains, (15 or 20 miles east of the crest,) the upper covering of sand, clay, and gravel is from one to three feet thick, and lies upon a coarse sandstone. The grass, luxuriant on the vegetable mould, gradually becomes thinner, until on the sterile soil it is very sparse. Immediately under the mountains it improves again—perhaps from the intermingling of limestone debris, and the comparatively greater fall of rain.

On the Coteau du Missouri the ground is rougher, and the grass thinner, than on the prairie; and west and south of the Missouri it is in many places even yet more rough and sterile, the Mauvaises Terres beginning not far from the mouth of L’ Eau-qui-court river.

In fact, the tertiary and cretaceous formations extend from about longitude 97° west of Greenwich to the eastern base of the Rocky mountains; the soil being stiff clay and sandstone, alternating with each other. The former are well constituted for fertility; but, under the pres- ent meteorological conditions, (the small yearly amount of rain, and the total absence of it at certain seasons,) they are unsuitable for agricultural purposes. They produce luxuriant grasses in the spring, but in the dry season (the summer) the sun withers the grass, parches, bakes, and cracks the clay surface, and not only gives it a sterile aspect, but renders it unculti- vable. The sandstone soils are in themselves sterile. It is thought by some that if the annual burning of the prairies were to cease, forests would grow upon the clay soils, a greater amount of rain in the summer be precipitated by them, and that these clay soils would thus become cultivable.

The river-bottoms in part (where the soils of the different strata become mixed,) and the val- leys among the mountains, form exceptions to this general condition of sterility. As, for instance, it is Lieut. Donelson’s opinion that upon the Missouri the soil is such that the set- tlements might be continuous upon its banks up to the mouth of L’ Eau-qui-court river, longi-

Ta

50 ROUTE NEAR THE FORTY-SEVENTH AND FORTY-NINTH PARALLELS.

tude 98°; from that point to Fort Union, about one-fourth could be settled. Above Fort Union, Lieut. Grover says: ‘‘On the lower portion of the river (between Fort Benton and Fort Union,) there are many quite extensive bottoms well adapted to agricultural purposes. There is a good deal of arable land, also, in the vicinity of Fort Benton, and in the Sun River valley.’”’ The proportion of cultivable bottom lands on this section of the river is much less than one-fourth. The Mouse River valley is represented to be fertile, as its growth of ash, elm, and oak indicates. Describing that portion of the route from Fort Union to Fort Ben- ton, Governor Stevens writes, ‘‘ The bottem lands, both of the Missouri and Milk rivers, are composed of clay and sand, &ec.”’

The space between the Rocky and Cascade mountain chains is principally occupied, between the parallels of 45° and 49° latitude, with mountain masses and the great elevated plain of the Columbia.

From the main Cascade chain the generally sterile soil extends eastward ever the dry region until the rain that falls upon the Coeur d’ Alene, Bitter Root, and other mountains, begins to be felt; we then have grazing. The soil improves in quality as the mountains are approached, the valleys of which are represented as fertile, perhaps influenced in some degree by the nature of the mountain debris that have been washed upon them. The Colum- bia river and its affluents, in their lower courses within the limits above mentioned, are stated to carry gravel and sand, but no fertilizing matter.

It is their upper or mountain valleys (between the Cascade and Rocky mountains) only that are productive ; their lower are uncultivable.

The fertile or cultivable areas are most probably the exceptions to the general character of the soil between these two mountain chains, and are of limited extent.

The soil, too, of a large portion described as fertile, is most probably better adapted to grazing than to farming. The valley of St. Mary’s, and other mountain valleys in that region, and west of the Bitter Root mountains, are represented to have dark gravelly soils. The prairies on the Columbia river are also more or less gravelly. The middle and western parts of the plain of the Columbia are sandy, rocky, and sterile; here and there are swales, having rich mould; bunch-grass, varying in degree of sparseness of growth, is found over a large portion of its surface.

Lieutenant Mullan says of the St. Mary’s valley, which has been considered as a kind of standard, ‘‘the soil of the valley of the Bitter Root (St. Mary’s) is fertile and productive, well timbered with pine and cotton-wood, but whose chief characteristic and capability is that of grazing large herds of cattle, and affording excellent mill-sites along the numerous mountain streams.”’

Probably about one-fourth of the area of the valley is cultivable, the remainder being suit- able for grass-lands only.

Dr. Suckley, referring to the Hell Gate, Bitter Root, Clark and Columbia rivers, and to the Dalles, says, ‘‘there are a few pieces of excellent land along these rivers.’? The valley of Clark’s fork is heavily timbered with pine; there is no grass.

Within the limits of Washington Territory, between the Cascade and Rocky mountains, there are 7,356 Indians. Within the same Territory, west of the Cascades, the areas being as 3 to 1 about, there are 6,903 Indians. This may give some indication as to the capabilities of the soi] for supporting animal life.

West of the Cascade mountains there are generally prairies, soon exhausted by cultivation, but offering good grazing; clay formations that are arable, and rich river bottoms. The fall of rain in the year is about 47 inches; the temperature is moderate.

Governor Stevens estimates that there are 4,000 square miles of tillable land on the eastern slopes of the Rocky mountains, and that the mountain valleys on the western slopes contain 6,000 square miles of arable land, _

The preliminary report of the geologist of the party, made from Washington Territory,

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where he was still engaged in the field when the report of Governor Stevens was prepared, failed to reach the latter, who thus was not afforded the means of correcting opinions formed from those appearances of fertility presented by the growth of grasses, &c., which are liable to mislead, especially after traversing a region devoid of such verdure. A more thorough examination of the country and soil proves that very little, if any, of the eastern slopes of the Rocky mountains is suitable for cultivation; and that the valleys of the streams east of the mountains, and those west, are capable of sustaining merely small agricultural settlements. The greater portion of these valleys are only suited for grazing lands; and this mountain region, described as containing 10,000 square miles of arable land, admirably adapted by nature for a grazing country, can never sustain a large agricultural population.

There must be some numerical error in the estimate of the area of the grassed lands between the Bitter Root and the Rocky mountains, since careful measurements in the office make it much less than that given above.

It is not probable that the area of cultivable soil within the limits mentioned, east and west of the Rocky mountains, will exceed one-tenth of the area stated—that is, 1,000 square miles.

The character of country along the route from St. Paul to Seattle may be summed up as follows:

From St. Paul to Little Falls, fertile soil........ tidtisltePstewsics ceksaeeas tock ose een cee 109 miles. From the Mississippi river at Little Falls to Dead Colt Hillock, the soil is

fertlle< CMe GIStANCO 1S) VDOOUbi ce. ccs seeewesedsisuioceouassocacssmsonssecaesacdclinaseeeesncceas ao) MLC OMOTE: From that point to the crossing of Reviére a Jacques, near the 99th meridian,

the change from fertility to an uncultivable condition takes place ...............04. GGrmnc

Thence to the crossing of Sun river, a distance of 752 miles, the prairie is uncul- tivable; the river bottom of the Missouri in part, those of Jacques river, Mouse river, and of other streams, possessing a cultivable soil .............cececeeneeen enone UA We then have mountain region of 404 miles, a well-wooded district to the Spokane river, with mountain valleys of partly cultivable soil, and prairies of the same CHUTACUCL teeter oconcuscnecsesiatn seer comcast tenaenceteete cereceina ales an seats mente cette . 404 « (The sum of the areas of the cultivable soil in the Rocky mountain region being about 1,000 square miles.) From the Spokane river to the crossing of the Columbia, 10 miles above Fort

Wallah-Wallah, over the barren plain of the Columbia...................cceeseeeees 142, <* Thence to the Cascades, an uncultivable though grazing district, about............+ aga ae Thence to Seattle, on Puget sound, over cultivable land, about............sscesseeeeeees a) re”

otal, jecuteten tesa Sas aeaeniodect Fethiaguaseaee ate echiwaiadae dasllveinederer 23020), <<

So that of the 2,025 miles from St. Paul to Seattle, on Puget sound, we have only a space of about 535 miles of fertile country; the remaining 1,490 miles being over uncultivable prairie soil, or mountain-land producing only lumber, with the limited exception of occasional river- bottoms, mountain-valleys, or prairie.

CLIMATE.

Of the 47 inches of rain that fall yearly at Steilacoom, Puget sound, 15 inches fall during the autumn months, and 20.6 inches during the winter months. At Fort Laramie, on the plain just east of the Rocky mountains, 23.5 inches rain fall during the year. Ten inches of these 23.5 fall during the spring, and only 3.4 inches during the winter. At Fort Snelling about 25 inches fall during the year: of this only 2 inches fall during the winter ; 6.8 inches during the spring ; 10.2 inches during the summer ; and 5.7 inches during the autumn. The excessive autumn and winter rains of Puget sound are converted into spring rains at the eastern base

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of the Rocky mountains, and into summer rains at Fort Snelling. It is probable that the Bitter Root range has a heavy winter precipitation, and, arresting a large proportion of the moisture from the west, protects the Rocky mountains from it and from heavy winter snows—a circumstance favorable to the construction and working of a railroad through the Rocky mountains in this latitude. It appears probable, too, that the greatest precipitation in this region takes place during the latter part of winter and the early part of spring. Mr. Tinkham, in crossing the Bitter Root range, found two and three feet of snow in the latter part of Novem- ber; and, before he left the camp on the summit of the pass, (7,250 feet elevation) the snow increased to the depth of six feet.

The evidence adduced by Goy. Stevens shows that no obstruction to a railroad need be appre- hended from snow across the plains through the passes of the Rocky mountains, and thence by way of the Columbia River Pass to Puget sound, though the great rise of the Bitter Root and Flathead rivers and Clark’s fork, in the spring freshets, indicates a large deposition of snow at their sources. It is reported, that two winters previous to that of Gov. Stevens’s party being there, (winter of 1851-2,) a party of Flathead Indians were prevented from returning to their village, in St. Mary’s valley, although only two or three days’ travel from it, by the passes being blocked up with snow; they were on that account obliged to pass the winter in one of the valleys east of St. Mary’s. This does not, however, make it impracticable for a railroad, since it was the accumulation of drift of the whole winter, and on a railroad track it would be removed as fast as it fell. ‘The meteorological observations made at Fort Benton and in St. Mary’s valley during the past year, will be interesting. The amount of winter rains converted into snow, give pretty sure indications, in these climates, of the greatest depth that may be encountered, allowing one foot of snow to one inch of rain.

With respect to the temperature of the route: San Francisco, in about latitude 37°, has a winter temperature of 50° Fahrenheit ; Fort Moultrie, Charleston harbor, about latitude 33°, has about the same winter temperature, 50° Fahrenheit ; Steilacoom, Puget sound, about lati- tude 47°, has a winter temperature of about 39° Fahrenheit—the same, nearly, as that of Fort Monroe, Old Point Comfort, Chesapeake bay, in latitude about 37°, which is 40° Fahren- heit.

The mean winter temperature of Steilacoom, Puget sound, is 39°; of San Francisco, 50°.4; showing an increase of about 1° of Fahrenheit for 1° of latitude, which is the change generally on that coast within those limits, corresponding nearly with the eastern part of Europe, as given by Humboldt.

On the Atlantic coast, the change from south to north in our territory, as far north as Boston, is about 2°.4 Fahrenheit for 1° of latitude. The meteorological observations that I have access to, those of the Surgeon General’s bureau, do not show whether’this change of proportion takes place gradually between the shores of the two oceans, or if it be sudden.

Along the Mississippi river the decrease of temperature for increase of latitude is somewhat less than on the Atlantic.

Along the chain of the Rocky mountains the change of temperature in some instances corre- sponds with the Atlantic, sometimes with the Mississippi ; in other cases, the proportionate decrease of temperature going north is greater than either. The observations on the northern route, as given in the report, are too imperfect to enable a satisfactory comparison to be drawn between them and those made at points further south. So far as any conclusions can be deduced from them, they indicate that the law of change of temperature along the Rocky mountain range for change of latitude is nearly the same as that along the Mississippi or the Atlantic coast—the points being reduced to a common elevation by the allowance of 1° Fah- renheit for every 300 feet of elevation. It is supposed, also, that no great modifying influ- ences from local causes exist—such, for instance, as the Great Salt lake. If, then, we find points along the northern route, among the mountains, with winter temperatures not exceed- ing those many degrees further south, in the same mountain chain, it will be due simply to

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the low elevation of the former. That the winter climate is severely cold on the prairies between Fort Benton and the mountains, and in the Rocky mountain passes, is inferrible from the reports of Mr. Tinkham and Lieutenant Grover. That the cold is excessive on the prairie over the whole route is evident, from the meteorological information contained in