if katy + il by i he Ks { ) ( : \ i : » h lw i ‘ ‘ i ’ : } i , tf * | +“ i a ' ‘ ye ¢ #4 : ( bee ’ h 2 i ; ' a3 ’ I ! Boat : ' i : ph * : , ’ ‘ ib bh . { mili> ‘ { i ty heoh . . li ’ hea Al aoe | f 4 H ¢ Ae dy ’ ; } Ny y ‘ ate : an 4 ‘ r wert é ‘ iy 7 “ rf : ’ ‘ ¢ * / * hd a ae ’ aot ; ¢ ‘ : H the + . Pi A ae ne Ti > ’ ryan | 5 Py Pay) ioe me, p i pha , } ps ‘ ty Pan 14 i aE . N 7 MN iy! , sa ; Oia bee et Afi ¥ , melee \ ee Ts ah iW ree A a EN, 7 Fs 33d Conaress, ? SENATE. Ex. Doc. ) 2d Session. REPORTS OF EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS, TO ASCERTAIN THE MOST PRACTICABLE AND ECONOMICAL ROUTE FOR A RAILROAD FROM THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. MADE UNDER THE DIRECTION OF THE SECRETARY OF WAR, IN 1853-4, ACCORDING TO ACTS OF CONGRESS OF MARCH 3, 1853, MAY 31, 1854, AND AUGUST 6, 1854. ~ VOLUME I. WASHINGTON: BEVERLEY TUCKER, PRINTER, 1855. I Gir eigienlare « ; 1D ae or Be 3 . iad 4 ip ad - PO cx < : aan i im ds . Th) + y rayne ne ne a i i a ee F 4 Te ine © at / - 9 Toe CONTENTS OF VOLUME I. REPORT OF THE SECRETARY OF WAR. EXAMINATION OF THE REPORTS OF THE SEVERAL ROUTES EXPLORED. RAILWAY MEMORANDA, LETTER OF MAJOR GENERAL THOMAS 8. JESUP. REPORT OF GOVERNOR I. I. STEVENS. IN SENATE—Fesruary 24, 1855. Resolved, That there be printed, for the use of the Senate, ten thousand copies of the several reports of surveys for a rail- road to the Pacific, made under the direction of the Secretary of War; and also of the report of F. W. Lander, civil engineer, of a survey of a railroad route from Puget’s Sound, by Fort Hall and the Great Salt lake, to the Mississippi river; and the report of John C. Frémont, of a route for a railroad from the head-waters of the Arkansas river into the State of California; together with the maps and plates accompanying said reports, necessary to illustrate the same; and that five hundred copies be printed for the use of the Secretary of War, and fifty copies for each of the commanding oflicers engaged in said service. Attest: ASBURY DICKINS, Secretary. THIRTY-SECOND CONGRESS, SECOND SESSION—Cuaprer 98. Sxor. 10. And be it further enacted, That the Secretary of War be, and he is hereby authorized, under the direction of the President of the United States, te employ such portion of the Corps of Topographical Engineers, and such other persons as he may deem necessary, to make such explorations and surveys as he may deem advisable, to ascertain the most practicable and economical route for a railroad from the Mississippi river to the Pacific ocean, and that the sum of one hundred and fifty thousand dollars, or so much thereof as may be necessary, be, and the same is hereby, appropriated out of any money in the treasury not otherwise appropriated, to defray the expense of such explorations and surveys. Approved March 3, 1853. THIRTY-THIRD CONGRESS, FIRST SESSION—Cuarrer 60. Appropriation: For deficiencies for the railroad surveys between the Mississippi riyer and the Pacific ocean, forty thousand dollars. Approved May 31, 1854. THIRTY-THIRD CONGRESS, FIRST SESSION—Cuarrer 267. Appropriation: For continuing the explorations and surveys to ascertain the best route for a railway to the Pacific, and for completing the reports of surveys already made, the sum of one hundred and fifty thousand dollars. Approved August 5, 1854. Erratoum.—On page 3, report of Secretary of War, for “March 3L” read March 3. Nore.—In the note to Table A, page 31, report of the Secretary of War, marked thus *, which reads, “These are the esti- mates of the office, those of Governor Stevens having been brought to the same standard of increased cost as the other routes, and his equipment reduced to that of the other routes. His estimates were $117,121,000 and $7,030,000;” the sum of $117,121,000 is the estimate for the whole route from St. Paul to Seattle. From St. Paul to Vancouver the estimate of Governor Stevens is $110,091,000, INDEX TO REPORT OF THE SECRETARY OF WAR AND OFFICE REPORTS. Contents of volume I -.---- 2-2. 6c oc cen ne conn on iw as on oe nnn wenn nw ne oon enn ns Resolution authorizing printing of reports .--..----------------- ------+ ------ ---- +--+ - -- 2-02 eos ee eee Acts of Congress of March 3, 1853, May 31, 1854, and August 5, 1854, authorizing the surveys and explorations. --.. Note in reference to Governor Stevens’s estimate of cost of road REPORT OF THE SECRETARY OF WAR. Provisions under which the explorations and surveys were made-.....--..--------- --+- +--+ +--+ ------ -+-------- General map .----- .----- 2-22 cee n ne ene ee een enn nee nnn nnn cee eee eee cee eee cone eee eens eens General sketch of the country between the Mississippi river and the Pacific ocean..-..----.--------------------- General description of the mountain systems, soil, water, &c., between the Mississippi river and the Pacific ocean -- Remarks upon the several routes -.-. ---- -- ++ «2-0 2-22 1 - ene eee ene nae cee ce nnn wee nen ns eens eee ene Examination of route near the 47th and 49th parallels of north latitude, explored by Governor I. I. Stevens and Captain G. B. McClellan, Corps of Engineers .....----- ..---- ------ ---- ---- ---- = 222 eee ee ene ween enn eee eee Examination of route near the 41st and 42d parallels of north latitude, explored by Captain J. C. Frémont, Captain H. Stansbury, Corps of Topographical Engineers, and Lieutenant E. G. Beckwith, 3d regiment of artillery-.----- Examination of route near the 38th and 39th parallels of north latitude, explored by Captain J. W. Gunnison, Corps of Topographical Engineers; report by Lieutenant E. G. Beckwith, 3d regiment artillery.----.---.------------ Examination of route near the 35th parallel of north latitude, explored by Lieutenant A. W. Whipple, Corps of To- pographical Engineers. --- 20.2. o-oo ww eas wen wenn nn wean enw nw wn ane ewe one nne Examination of route near the 32d parallel of north latitude, explored by Captain John Pope, Lieutenant John G. Parke, and Major William H. Emory, Corps of Topographical Engineers-.....----..------------------------- Examination of extension of route of 32d parallel from the mouth of the Gila to San Francisco, explored by Lieute- nant R. §. Williamson, Corps of Topographical Engineers Remarks in regard to estimates of cost and equated lengths; comparison of results; “the most practicable and economical route,” its characteristics and advantages ,..--. .---.----- .----- ------ eee eee oe = oe ee ee Table showing lengths, sums of ascents and descents, equated lengths, cost, &c., of the several routes-.-.---------- Table of distances of the eastern termini of the routes to the Mississippi river and the principal Atlantic and Gulf ports- List of documents accompanying Secretary’s report... ---. 2c one. cee ene een e ween cane www ene enone === enn EXAMINATION OF THE ROUTES BY CAPTAIN A. A. HUMPHREYS AND LIEUTENANT G. K. WARREN, CORPS GRAPHICAL ENGINEERS. : CHAPTER I. Route near the 47th and 49th parallels of north latitude. Considerations determining the general direction of the route ----- Bese COs Cond SSGOU DOSEESOn Emenee cacao eae Examination of route in detail from St. Paul, Mississippi river, to the Missouri river, near Fort Union, (comprising topographical description, grades, character of work, supplies of building material, fuel, water, &c. ) Examination of route in detail from near Fort Union to the eastern base of the Rocky mountains. .-..-------.---- Water from the Red river of the north to Maria’s river Examination of route in detail from the eastern base of the Rocky mountains to the crossing of the Spokane river-- Description of the passes of the Rocky mountains, and continuation of route through them...--.-.--------------- Description of the passes of the Bitter Root mountains, and continuation of route through them -.-..------------- Examination of route in detail from the crossing of the Spokane river to the crossing of the Columbia river.-.----- Exaniination of route in detail from the crossing of the Columbia river to Puget Sound, by the Yakima Pass. ..---. 230-49 OF Page. ill iv TOPO- 39 39, 40 41 AL 41-45 41-43 43-45 45, 46 46 v1 INDEX. Page Snow upon the Yakima Pass. ...--- ---- ------ --- 2-2 eee nee cee ene eee eee ce ene ee ene cee eee eee eens eee wee 46, 47, 48 Examination of route in detail, from the crossing of the Columbia to Puget Sound, by the pass of the Columbia river. 48 Motal length of the TOUtO-=<-s00ccmcejcane cee -orelcee =n maw= =eomnew wee nann ses seeleee-== s=~e= se aeeenmae=e=e=ss 49 1 bd ee ee eee a eee 2 Bo Bs, 4 ree te eR ei a Fo ne yt I nS 49, 50,51 Pel Ct: ee Se et a a a a et a en te es Pe yer = see 55 51, 52, 53 Glidractoriatios OF tlle ZOUtO}=.5-- peceen pact ccec ces cern mop eseenes monn anlenen emn™ ete aaa emma ee een eter 53, 54 General jelevatiOUs> os =~ cac- ose wict essa cee ces chee es osname bch ealebe aan e sea peceinbes none elle n= ann nee nee 53 Sim (of @scente ADC GESCONUE, GoCrec coe oe ce ow eee cee ope ese eee = bo nei sinnele'sle'g= = le == =m en mim se een emme 53, 54 MMP Gleseees eons cecees acco pecs satan eee eee a ae ee eels eae ee alee ee atin el none 54 GL eae oro ccc c Sooo ak ceo acac cutee cus wereas See Deter arc a esen inte mse ae meme eee = a eam ail nl te 54 CHOTA CS ESERIES AIOE ISEES BOSS STS CODD DOOR SECO ER Ig DIOS GEES PSS Oe OHO Te ies ee nas ets elma tN emis meres 55 Estimated cost of road, with remarks.... .--- .-- 2-220 ceo s0 enc eee cocoa BESo On “ha enaoaasooouS soe see ee 55 CHAPTER II. Route near the forty-first and forty-second parallels of north latitude. General description of the route from the Missouri river to Fort Bridger, on a tributary of Green river -----. ------ 56 Examination of route in detail from the Missouri river to Fort Bridger, (comprising topographical description, grades, character of work, supplies of building material, fuel, water, snow, estimate of cost, &c).--..--.-------- 56, 57 Examination of route in detail from Fort Bridger, through the Wahsatch mountains, to the south end of the Great SRA A he cee on Oe HIB ASeSe Sac SOO SESO CSS EE OOOSSe | ARDIESS A poo SECU OS Seco OSS SOS bese aes aS Sass Caco 57,58 General description of the Great Basin near the latitudes of 41° and 42°...-..----. .----- ---- ----- +--+ +----- +--+ 58, 59 Examination of route in detail from the south end of the Great Salt lake to the foot of the eastern slope of the Sierra IEC Re os e585 SOE Deg DOOR EDI SDS SS SISE o SEOs SSCS S00 Se SS ISSO BOSS DOS DOSESO DOSSIEOBSSSNNS pooseasese 59 Plateau of the Sierra Nevada 59, 60 Examination of the Madeliu Pass from the eastern foot of the Sierra Nevada to Round Valley, on the Sacramento PIV Olan oe ees eciee eee nee e heme SE an ape ee ae tae aaa a eae ee ee le eae ee le ed eae 5 60 Examination of route in detail along the Sacramento river from Round Valley to 18 miles above Fort Reading.-.-.. 60 Detailed description of the Sacramento river through the mountain district....-.-.---------------------. See 61 Total length of the route... . -... 2-2-2 oe. one ee ese w coe men cow ene mown ane oem wens enn n enemas sone man w nna e= 62 Timber, building materials, &c...--- 20. -2- = cone woe ane one conn e conn we ern en nn wees wenn sews con oe= ences o==s 62 100 CARRS Bs Oe ec Seto SOUS Ee oe BOC DCO ESAS ECO IE CORD OSD OC OOD C55 SI9> OSE oS So Neon pose Sere ose 62 Snow, climate, and 3vater.- <<. oes oo eae omen me biinn- anne == oan SERA 0 aS ADE SC IIIS DORE SOUS OOOO 62, 63, 64 i a= sat cece ceeds cae - eo REISS ODOC SN Gy scne SEECSN ooo oe Sa sane se cose secon rene ee esas one e eee 64, 65 atMALe OL PLODADe CORLIOL TORO naman. amc on - aismnemelaemnite mimes ine ieee lane mean eae la ne =i Seer eee 65, 66 Characteristic features of the voute > ec se anes oem slattee hate ccitecicinceeeninn nm callaen iss wina-lecee==leere= elves 66 Sum of ascents and descents. (See table, page 107.) Supplement to the examination— Description of the Rocky Mountain plateau on the route...--.. .--.---.-----------0+-- ate pore 36 ae 66, 67 Description of the country east of the plateau, to the Mississippi river ....-..----- .--..----- ---+ seen eee 4 67, 68 Description of the route from the Missouri river to Fort Bridger, by the South Pass.......----.- Se) eae 68, 69 Ditto by Bridgotis Pasisos. coos oo one nite oan). oe bee aoe eeeds Joe eceeeek Lone eee * 69, 70 Lengths; sumsjor ascents and: descents; (850... no sctwte ww cos 4 = nee cecien en monseneg ence + -= sh vonsinennlquveuylea= ==> sae ==—Fieme = Daily inspection of the road and stations -.-.. .----- --- e202 enn eee ee eens nee eens ere wenn eens Solon the wholenronte:-scsenc ee marie ese peeean none oer en oe a Sew ines ee ee eee eee eee General advantages of the route in soil, productiohs, population, surface, mountain passes, and climate....--------- Estimate of cost of construction...--. ..---- ------ 22-2 eee e ne conn ne eee eee won cen ones one wee nne =e soss-t Business of the road; earnings; cost of working; Massachusetts roads; New York roads---.----.-------- aoss55- Comparison of the routes, showing the advantages and disadvantages of each; and explanation of the table of lengths, @istances, &c., LOllOWING-- << 6-65 cow e cone cee ew ene w ew ees se een === wees ==se senses cawel>===s=5= Seana eee Table showing the lengths, sum of ascents and descents, &c., &ce., of routes explored........----.-----+-.------ Table of distances from the eastern termini of the routes to the Mississippi river and the principal Atlantic and Gulf POTTS. «2 ewe we nee eee ene ween eee ee wens teen ween ne ne Ft we ene cee ee wenn cern ween ween e eee cee wee wane CHAPTER VI. Notes on the characteristics of the route from Independence to Santa Fé..... .----- -----+ ---- eee eee eee nn eee ee Notes on the characteristics of the route from Indianola, via San Antonio, to El Paso...-..-.-...---.------------ MEMORANDA ON RAILWAYS BY BREVET CAPTAIN GEORGE B. MC’CLELLAN. Letter to Secretary of War..--.. .-.. ----- 2-2-2 20 - e one come ne een e- =n 00 oe aaancos Seceinooraissace sesose onc Gradients.---- EE es Fe Reece tee (ecco nite ma atemoccalee Rosa Beco bSasee wt Oba wceossoees ae ee 5 Formule. .--.-- ee eee naan oe eoiercinn waleeels ete etnies = =i nia OS SSeees > Sone ceases eee (Chin GS-23 one oc co banesD Does OBOE EOD SURGES SOE CCISONSes Croc Seeemeson fosdosss oe dos eee teee re eee WOnBtIUCHON Sse e eo. ooo mee canna w pec ene wens canaleewaursuves=(o====a\e=—=ssiob= OP Pe oe eee eS Weights, cost, S&0.-- 220 20. sees comm nw cere enn e monn en ce== ena wise ES i Eee es IBYId 208: caer nce es om cnienoelene= ceneictbe me slonevloweeas ces ee als =sim~nleneemelom=le== Sinn oman en == m= == alan eee iWiaterandiiiel Spe: exten ger oe corer oat Cacbe~faee ect s/o Lee Sanne eee oes SRapos OeSe SS cenbass6 a5555 Statistics of various railroads... -...----.------------- Semel otststs elale staf alatetete cia natal tates BoeSonccnc aches Characteristics and cost of six railways... .---2- co0e cee cen nne cower e conn cas ene eens ene ene wenn ne wane we Depots, & 6.2202. cence enn cower cence ween sewer e corn ns nn wen ewes eee Sag dodeoo Sasasoosos soso sesssocesae Repairs and inspection of track.c.--- e-c--0 cone eee ee ene eens enn eee ene n wee ene wee cone none coe e ww cn cnne Wonue Bee seer ce cere tees < acces ch menccns sacees eennine smten= === pene hh em ee eiiee melee aia 4925239. 5555055=5 . Table showing comparative lengths of some of the largest tunnels. ---------. ---------------- +----+-----+------ IR hoc S26 Sep en oe tees Oe Se PD ECO SEO SISSIES 59 SS BOSS SSS S09 DOSS Eanes oo SSE OSIOSSS DDR UTE See ce ssenasaneuoeS Sac Gaatoaennsco nace sece Rode oso see os 2085 sSsacseaass Socosos5 8505500 Cattle, &c..---.-... Peouee Ceo smoconece sao SSO 0020 Saponses SSO OF Sossoasss505° REPORT OF GENERAL JESUP. Cost of transporting troops and supplies to California, Oregon, New Mexico, &C..--++ 2200 e0-2ee enn nne eenne wees 97 97,98 98 98, 99 99-104 104-106 107 108 109, 110 110, 111 115 115 116-119 119 119 120 120, 121 121, 122 122, 123 123-125 125, 126 126 126-129 129 130 130 130 183, 134 REPORT OF Pitts ek hb ARY OF WAR ON THE SEVERAL RAILROAD EXPLORATIONS. ‘4 es eT oe ot oi tt6 i | J. ). (ie Siw i | REI | gy! Be ae emeete” Yih i ier . pea jars Te es ~ rs . ‘. ‘, 2. 7 : a. —_ ban - . — 5 7 ai sh 7 “ ate. - 7 “us *~ _ 7 aes. ae REPORT OF°THE SECRETARY OF WAR. War DEPARTMENT, Washington, February 27, 1855. Str: I have the honor, in obedience to the provisions of the 11th section of the army appro- priation act, approved March 31, 1858, to lay before Congress printed reports of the engineers employed under the provisions of that act to make such explorations and surveys as this department might,deem advisable, in order to ascertain the most practicable and economical route for a railroad from the Mississippi river to the Pacific ocean. The great amount of labor required in the preparation of the general map, originally de- signed to accompany this report, and the unfinished condition of the original maps and other data, have delayed its completion beyond the period anticipated, but it is confidently believed that its engraving will be finished in time to accompany the extra copies of the report ordered by the two houses of Congress. It embraces the territory of the United States between the great lakes and the Mississippi river, on the east, and the Pacific ocean on the west. It is based upon the most reliable astronomical data within those limits; and the details having been compiled with care, from all the government explorations and surveys and other reliable authorities, it will present more minute information upon the region embraced by it than has heretofore been exhibited on any general map. It will show the relation to each other of the different railroad routes recently explored, their connexions with prominent points on Lakes Superior and Michigan, the Mississippi river and the Gulf of Mexico, and with the ports of the Pacific ; and, exhibiting only such features as have been determined by reliable observers, it will be of great value in showing what further explorations are necessary, and in determining their direction and extent. I have heretofore reported the nature of the explorations and surveys ordered in compliance with this act ; and by a reference to the statements there made, it will be seen that in order to accomplish as much as possible within the limited period indicated, not only were there as many distinct corps employed as there were routes to be surveyed, but several parties were, in some cases, employed upon different sections of the same route. It appears, therefore, necessary, in submitting these several reports, many of which are quite voluminous and in detached parts, to present a general recapitulation of their results, indicating those distinguishing characteristics, the comparison of which will determine which of the routes surveyed best fulfils the condition of practicability and economy proposed by the act. I will here repeat the general sketch of the country given in my first annual report, but corrected in accordance with the results of the recent explorations. This will serve, in the absence of a more elaborate description, to give some general idea of the nature of the country over which they extended. ‘The western portion of the continent of North America, irrespective of the mountains, is traversed from north to south by a broad, elevated swell or plateau of land, which occupies the greater portion of the whole space between the Mississippi river and the Pacific ocean. The crest of this plateau, or the water-shed of the country, is nearly midway between the Pacific coast and the Mississippi. It may be represented on the map by an undulating line traced 4 MOUNTAIN SYSTEMS. between the headwaters of the streams which flow eastward and those which flow westward. It divides the whole area between the Mississippi and the Pacific into two nearly equal portions—that on the east being somewhat the larger. This crest of the water-shed has its greatest elevation in Mexico; and thence declines to its lowest point about the latitude of 32°, where it has a height of about 5,200 feet, between the waters of the Rio Grande and those of the San Pedro, a tributary of the Gila. From this parallel it increases in altitude north- ward, and reaches its maximum near the 38th parallel, where it is about 10,000 feet high. Thence it declines as we pass northward; and, in latitude 42° 24’, it has an elevation of, say, 7,490 feet; and in the latitude of about 47° it is reported to be at least 1,450 feet lower. The heights here given are those of the lowest passes over the crest or water-shed of the great plateau of the country, and not those of the mountain peaks and ridges which have their base upon it, and rise, in some cases, to the height of 17,000 feet into the region of perpetual snow. : The slope of the plateau on the east and south, towards the Mississippi and the Gulf of Mexico, is comparatively gentle, and in the northern part of Texas, that known by the name of the Llano Estacado, or Staked Plain, is by steps. It is traversed by the Missouri, the Platte, the Arkansas, and other large rivers, which rise among the mountains near the crest, and flow eastward and southward in channels sunk beneath the general surface-level of the — plains. Its crest, and nearly the entire distance thence to the Pacific, is occupied by high plains or basins, differing from each other in elevation from 1,000 to 3,000 feet, and by mountain peaks _ and ridges, varying in direction to almost every point of the compass, though they have a general course north and south. Many of these mountains, including those that bound this system, have obtained the name of chains, and a short classification of them will now be attempted, although it is to be premised that our knowledge of them is most imperfect, and the classification now made, future explorations will probably show to be erroneous. The only proper classification must be made by the geologist, after a thorough exploration for this purpose, which it will require a long period to accomplish. These mountains may be considered as constituting three great systems, extending gen- erally throughout our possessions in a north and south direction; and though this arrange- ment may not be the best or most accurate, yet it will enable us to take a comprehensive view of the whole as regards the construction of a railroad, since any direct line that can be traced from the Mississippi to the Pacific, except near the 48th and 32d parallels, will encounter each of these three systems in some point. Calling the most eastern system No. 1, we find a portion of it, crossing the Rio Grande, and entering Texas at the Great Cation. Its extension south into Mexico forms the east front of the Sierra Madre. Running northward, this system includes all the mountains on either side of the Rio Grande, enclosing its valley and the Salinas Basin. Those on the east form the divide between the Pecos and Salinas Basin, and between the Rio Grande ond Canadian; on the west they divide the waters of the Rio Grande from those that flow to the Gulf of California. Those on the east are sometimes called the Rocky mountains, some- times the Sierra Madre; and this last name is sometimes applied to those on the west. There seems to be a necessity for considering the mountains on both sides of the Rio Grande as one system, ‘These may be said to unite near the headwaters of the Rio Grande and Arkansas, and here the mountains have their greatest development. The Sierra de la Plata extends to the southwest, the Elk mountains to the west, and the various chains forming the Park mountains to the north, The Park mountains, in latitude 41° 80/, sink into the plateau, forming the region of the South Pass; and the only continuation we have of this system is in the Black Hills, which continue to the north, with diminished elevation, till, in latitude 46° 15', they are merggd into the coteau through which the Upper Missouri makes its passage. mong the mountains included in this system are the Sierra Madre, a portion of what is called the Rocky mountains, the Diabolo mountains, the Guadalupe mountains, Hueco mount- 4, MOUNTAIN SYSTEMS, 5 ains, Organ mountains, Sandia mountains, Santa Ie mountains, Sierra Blanea, Sierra Mojada, Sierra San Juan, Sierra de la Plata, Elk mountains, Park mountains, Medicine Bow mount- ains, and Black Hills. System No. 1 is thus but partially gorged by the Rio Grande, whose passage of the Great Caiion is wholly impracticable for any method of communication ; that of El Paso is practi- cable. It is completely cut through by the North Platte and Sweet Water, forming a prac- ticable route; and is turned by the Upper Missouri. Low mountains or hills are known to exist between the Black Hills and the Wind River chain, about the headwaters of the Yellowstone and Missouri; but this region is too little known to be treated of with confidence, and may have a decided effect in modifying this classi- fication. System No. 2. If, from the Great Northern Bend of the Missouri, we travel west for 450 miles, we come again upon what are called the Rocky mountains; and still further west lies the Ceeur d’ Alene, or Bitter Root range, the two enclosing the Bitter Root or St. Mary’s valley; and both are considered as forming a part of this system, Following it to the south, it includes the Wind River chain, the Bear mountains, the Uinta mountains, and the Wahsatch, which last continue as far south as it has been explored, probably forming the divide between the Great Basin and the Colorado, till the junction of the latter with the Gila. System No. 3. From the junction of the Gila and Colorado, we find continuous mountains running to the northwest, and terminating at Point Conception, on the Pacific. On the south they are joined by the mountains forming the peninsula of California, the junction being at the San Gorgonio Pass, in latitude 33° 45’. On the north, two chains leave this range in latitude 35°. One, called the Coast range and Coast mountains, lies to the west of the San Joaquin and Sacramento valleys, the waters of which break through them at the Bay of San Francisco. The other, called the Sierra Nevada, lies to the east of these valleys. A great depression, forming a plateau, is known to exist in the Sierra Nevada in latitude 40° 30’, and another in latitude 42° 45’, near Lake Abert. This chain may, perhaps, be considered as terminating at or in these plateaus, or to find its con- tinuation in the Cascade or Coast range, which extend into the British possessions, being broken through by the Columbia and partly by the Klamath rivers. The Blue mountains, to the south of the Columbia, represented as having a general north- east direction, may be considered, along with the mountains mentioned since leaving the Colorado, as forming system No. 3. The Humboldt River chain, running north and south, (where crossed,) and separating the waters of the Humboldt or Mary’s river from those of the Great Salt Lake Basin, is a marked feature; but as to its connexion, north and south, with other ranges, nothing is certain. There seem good reasons for believing that the east and west ranges, represented as sepa- rating the Columbia River basin from the Great Basin, as well as the range represented as extending west from the Vegas of Santa Clara, are only apparently such, the deception arising from the overlapping of the side spurs to chains, the general direction of which is north and south, The ‘triangular space’ lying between the Rio Grande, Gila, and Colorado, is everywhere, so far as known, exceedingly mountainous; the ranges, such as the Mogollon and San J’ran- cisco mountains, having a general northwest direction, Too broad an interval exists between the explorations of Lieutenant Whipple and those of Captain Gunnison, to enable us to speak with certainty of their relation to the systems already alluded to. In portions of the mountain region, the waters find no outlet to the sea, but drain into — lakes and ponds, or sinks, carrying with them all the impurities of the basins to which they belong, and are there uniformly brackish or very salt. Prominent examples of this are the Salinas Basin, of New Mexico, and the Great Salt Lake Basin in Utah. aa 6 ‘MOUNTAIN SYSTEMS. From most portions of this interior mountain belt, the waters have been able to force their barriers and escape to the ocean. The valleys thus drained are, those of the southern tributaries of the Upper Missouri, that of the North Fork of the Platte, and its tributary the Sweet Water, between the first and second systems; that of the U,per Rio Grande del Norte, in the first system ; that of the Great Colorado of the West and its tributaries, between the first and second systems ; those of the waters of the Bay of San Francisco and of the Klamath river, in the third system; and that of the Columbia river and its tributaries, between the second and third systems. Some of these streams, as well as others in the enclosed basins, have in places worn for themselves, through the solid rock, the most stupendous chasms or cafions, often 2,000 feet in vertical height, many of which it is imposs.ble to follow or to cross. The position of this belt of mountain region, stretching from north to south, gives rise to a peculiarity of climate and soil. Fertility depends principally upon the degree of temperature and amount of moisture, both of which are much affected by increase of elevation; and the latter also depends on the direction of the wind. The upper or return current of the trade- wind, flowing backward towards the northeast, gives a prevalence of westerly winds in the north temperate zone, which tends to spread the moisture from the Pacific over the western portion of our continent. These winds, however, ascending the western slope of the mountain ridges, are deprived of their*moisture by the diminished temperature of the increased elevation ; and hence it is that the plains and valleys on the eastern side of the ridges are generally parched and barren, and that the mountain system, as a whole, presenting, as it were, a screen against the moisture with which the winds from the west come laden, has for its eastern margin a sterile belt, which probably extends along the whole range, with a width varying from 250 to 300 and 400 miles. From the foregoing sketch it will be perceived that the lines of exploration must traverse three different divisions or regions of country lying parallel to each other, and extending north and south through the whole of the western possessions of the United States. The first is that of the country between the Mississippi and the eastern edge of the sterile belt, having a varying width of from 500 to 600 miles. The second is the sterile region, varying in width from 200 to 400 miles ; and the third, the mountain region, having a breadth of from 500 to 900 miles. Explorations show that the surface of the first division, with few exceptions, rises in gentle slopes from the Mississippi to its western boundary, at the rate of about six feet to the mile, and that it offers no material obstacle to the construction of a railroad. It is, therefore, west of this that the difficulties are to be overcome. The concurring testimony uf reliable observers had indicated that the second division, or that called the sterile region, was so inferior in vegetation and character of soil, and so deficient in moisture, that it had received, and probably deserved, the name of the desert. This opinion is confirmed by the results of the recent explorations, which prove that the soil of the greater part of this region is, from its constituent parts, necessarily sterile; and that of the remaining part, although well constituted for fertility, is, from the absence of rains at. certain seasons, except where capable of irrigation, as uncultivable and unproductive as the other. This general character of extreme sterility likewise belongs to the country embraced in the mountain region, From the western slopes of the Rocky mountains to the 112th meridian, or the western limit of the basin of the Colorado, the soil generally is of the same formation as at lying east of that mountain crest, mixed, in the latitudes of 35° and 32°, with igneous rocks; and the region being one of great aridity, especially in the summer, the areas of cultivable land are limited. The western slopes of the highest mountain chains and spurs within this region being of a constitution favorable to fertility, and receiving much larger depositions of rain than the plains, have frequently in their small valleys a luxuriant growth of grasses, which sometimes clothes the mountain-sides; and where the wash is deposited on mountain stream or river-bottom the soil is fertile, and can be cultivated, if the elevations are not too great, and the means of irrigation available. Such mountain-valleys and river-bottoms 4 EXAMINATION OF THE ROUTES. - 7 exist upon all the routes, and the difference in the areas found in the different latitudes is not sufficiently great to be of any considerable weight in determining the question of choice of route. It is probable that all the routes are nearly on an equality in this respect. The cultivable valleys of the Rocky mountain district near the route of the 47th parallel do not probably exceed an area of 1,000 square miles, though there are extensive tracts of fine grazing lands. In this latitude the great sterile basaltic plain of the Columbia, and the barren table-lands, spurs, and mountain masses of the Cascade range, principally occupy the space between the Coeur d’ Alene mountains and the main chain of the Cascade system. In this area, where the rocks are principally of igneous origin, there are likewise occasional valleys of culti- vable soil. The western slopes of the Cascade mountains descend to the borders of Puget sound, On the routes of the 41st and 38th parallels, in the region under consideration, the only large body of soil capable of productive cultivation, by the construction of suitable works for irrigation, is that of the basin of the Great Salt lake, estimated to be 1,108 square miles in extent, about one-tenth part of which, being susceptible of cultivation without the construc- tion of irrigating canals, is now cultivated by the Mormons. Here also are extensive grazing lands. The great elevated plain of the Rocky mountains in latitudes 41° and 42°, and that of latitude 38°, called the San Luis valley, are covered with wild sage, the narrow border of grass found upon the streams being the chief, almost only, production capable of supporting animal life. The slopes of the mountains bounding them are covered with grass. ‘ The plains of the Great Basin, whose greatest width (500 miles) is in latitude 41°, are, with the exception heretofore stated, entirely sterile, and either bare or imperfectly covered with a scattered growth of wild sage. Where a stream or lake is found in this desolate region, its immediate borders generally support a narrow belt of grass and willows; the former being also found on the mountain slopes, where occasionally a scattered growth of stunted cedars is like- wise seen. Water is found on the mountain-side. The predominating rocks, from the Wahsatch mountains to the Sierra Nevada, are of igneous origin. Inthe southern portion of the Basin the granitic rocks are more abundant than the volcanic. On the routes of the parallels of 35° and 32° the valleys of the Pecos, Rio Grande, Gila, and Colorado of the West, contain the largest areas of fertile soil capable of irrigation and cultiva- tion. That in New Mexico is estimated at 700 square miles, exclusive of the regions occupied by Indians, of which 200 square miles are now under cultivation. Here the grazing land is of very great extent, the table-lands, as well as the mountain-sides, being covered with grass. The valley of the Colorado of the West, between its mouth and the 35th parallel, contains 1,600 square miles of fertile soil, which can be irrigated from the river. The plains south of the Gila in its lower course, and that west of the Colorado, extending to the Coast range, called the Colorado desert, as well as the contiguous portion of the Great Basin, are bare and exceedingly sterile in their aspect, and closely resemble each other. The soil of the Colorado desert, and much of this as well as other parts of the Great Basin, is, how- ever, favorably constituted for fertility, but the absence of the essential, quickening element, water, leaves them utterly unproductive. West of the Coast, Sierra Nevada, and Cascade mountains the country is better watered than that just considered; and the soil being mostly well constituted for fertility, is productive in proportion to the yearly amount of precipitation and the means of irrigation. The general position and direction of the four routes to be explored were explained in my report of December 1, 1853, and copies of the instructions given to the parties were appended to it. They were directed to observe and note all the objects and phenomena which have an im- mediate or remote bearing upon the railway, or which might seem to develop the resources, peculiarities, and climate of the country; to determine geographical positions, obtain the topo- graphy, observe the meteorology, including the data for barometric profiles, and two of the 8 ROUTE NEAR THE FORTY-SEVENTH AND FORTY-NINTH PARALLELS. parties were to determine the direction and intensity of the magnetic foree. They were to make a geological survey of the lines; to collect information upon, and specimens of, the botany and zoology of the country; and to obtain statistics of the Indian tribes which are found in the regions traversed. Thus would be obtained all the information for the general consideration of the question, as well as the data upon which the cost of construction and working a railroad depend. If the results of the explorations made under these instructions do not furnish the data requi- site to solve every question satisfactorily, they at least give a large amount of valuable in- formation, and place the question in a tolerably clear light. We see now, with some precision, the nature and extent of the difficulties to be encountered, and, at the same time, the means of surmounting them, As the readiest mode of communicating the nature and extent of the information contained in.the reports herewith submitted, a brief description of each route, its characteristic features, facilities, difficulties, and probable cost of construction, will be given. For a long distance west of the Mississippi, the enterprise of private companies, acting under State charters, has explored the country, and has projected or is constructing railroads, stretching towards the Pacific. As the examinations made under these auspices, and our general knowledge of that part of the country, afford the information necessary to determine all questions bearing upon the practicability of a railroad, it has been deemed unnecessary to incur the expense and delay of continuing the explorations directed by the act, eastward of the points reached, to which railroads are already projected, and consequently but one of the routes, the most northern, has its starting-point on the Mississippi. The connexion of the others with that river, as well as with the seaports of Atlantic and Gulf States, is shown by a table (B) hereto annexed, compiled from the best railroad maps. j ROUTE NEAR THE FORTY-SEVENTH AND FORTY-NINTH PARALLELS OF NORTH LATITUDE. Taking the routes in their geographical order, that near the 47th parallel, the general direction of the exploration of which was intrusted to Governor Stevens, of Washington Territory, will be the first discussed. The route was to cross the Rocky mountains at the sources of the tributaries of the Missouri and Columbia rivers, and, in approaching and leaving the mountains, to follow as far as prac- ticable the valleys of these rivers and their tributaries. The general direction of the Missouri from the Rocky mountains to the Great Bend, in lati- tude 48° 30’, is from west to east, and thence to latitude 43° 30’ southeast. The point where the direction changes is reached from St. Paul,.on the Mississippi, by a line passimg up on the east side of that river to Little Falls, 109 miles, and there crossing it; thence gaining the divide between the waters of Hudson’s bay and those of the Missouri, keeping on this divide, and approaching, in longitude 103°, within a few miles of the 49th parallel; then passing southerly, between the 104th and 105th meridians, and entering the valley of the Missouri river. The route then follows this valley to the mouth of Milk river. The ground near the Missouri here becoming rough and broken, the route is obliged to leave it and follow the valley of Milk river 187 miles; then entering the prairies, which near the mountains are more favorable for location than near the Missouri river, it continues in a line nearly parallel to the river, across its tributaries, the Marias, Teton, and Sun rivers, and enters either Clark’s or Cadotte’s Pass. As far as the crossing of Sun river, 1,093 miles from St. Paul, the route is over river bottom or prairie, the usual expense of construction over such ground being increased by the necessity of guarding against freshets by embankment on the river bottoms, of ballasting in the soft, sticky soil of Milk river, of providing supplies of water during the dry season, over certain portions of the route, by reservoirs and aqueducts, estimated to cost, with planting trees for supply of fuel, $3,000,000, and of transporting ties and lumber for distances of from 100 to ‘ROUTE NEAR THE FORTY-SEVENTH AND FORTY-NINTH PARALLELS, 9 470 miles—forest-growth suitable for ties and lumber not being found at closer intervals on the route. These, in connexion with the uninhabited and uncultivable condition of the country for 740 miles, form the difficulties of this portion of the route, and will materially increase the cost of its construction. ait most difficult portion of the whole route is, however, that which is now entered upon, : from Sun river to the Spokane, a distance of 365 salen embracing the Rocky mountains proper, and a secondary chain lying west of them, called Coeur d’Alene and the Bitter Root mountains, Through the Rocky mountains seven passes were explored; but the only ones among them, upon which the information obtained was sufficiently thorough and complete to enable projects to be made, are two (Clark’s and Cadotte’s) lying near each other in latitude 47°, and connecting the headwaters of Dearborn river, a tributary of the Missouri, with the Black- foot, a head branch of the Columbia. The summit ridge of Clark’s Pass has an elevation of 6,323 feet, and requires a tunnel 21 miles long, at an elevation of 5,300 feet. Its connexion with the main line of survey along the valley of the Blackfoot river was not made, though ‘‘believed’’ practicable, with grades of 50 feet per mile. The interyal unexamined is 4} miles long. This pass has been adopted by Governor Stevens in the railroad estimate, and is probably practicable. The approach to the other pass (Cadotte’s) is difficult, owing to the numerous deep ravines of the tributaries of a branch of Dearborn river, which the road must cross. The summit of the pass has an elevation of 6,044 feet; requires a tunnel 44 miles long, at an elevation of 5,000 feet, with grades of approach of 60 feet, and of departure of 40 feet, per mile. A tunnel 44 or even 24 miles in length, in rock or part rock, at a depth below the summit of 1,000 feet, in a severely-cold climate, 800 or 1,000 miles distant from a thickly-inhabited district, is a work of vast difficulty; and the necessity of the construction of one of these two tunnels, in connexion with the character of the approach, and the difficult nature of the work required, continuing westward as far as the crossing of the Spokane river, in all a distance of 365 miles, is one of the most serious objections to the route. From either pass the route seeks the Blackfoot river, with the view of reaching Clark’s fork, which opens the only pass through the Bitter Root mountains, the practicability of which was determined. Ip order to reach Clark’s fork, two routes were examined. The first fol- lows the Blackfoot river to its junction with Hell-Gate, a distance of 93 miles. The valley is narrow and wooded, the stream winding, and for twenty miles there is a narrow gorge. Numerous’ bridges will be required. The Hell-Gate, a few miles after being joined by the Blackfoot, empties into the St. Mary’s, called below this junction the Bitter Root. The con- struction of the road along this stream to its junction with Clark’s fork will be a work of . great difficulty and expense, requiring short curves, steep gradients, numerous bridges, heavy side-cutting, and high embankments, in consequence of the spring freshets, (from twenty to thirty feet of vertical rise.) From the nature of the examination, its practicability cannot be considered as established. The other route, (shorter, and probably less difficult,) having followed the Blackfoot but a short distance, crosses to the Jocko, descends this to the Flathead, and descends the latter to its junction with the Bitter Root, forming Clark’s fork, bounded closely by high, rocky mountains. Having reached Clark’s fork, the route continues along this river as far as Lake Pend d’Oreille, between rugged, rocky mountains, which at several points crowd upon the river. The valley of this river is heavily timbered, principally with pine, and, with the lake, it is subject to freshets fifteen feet in height. Leaving Lake Pend d Oreille at its lower extremity, the route crosses to the Spokane without difficulty. At the Spokane river the continuous mountain region and the forest terminate, and ‘‘all great difficulties of location upon the route cease.’ The earth-excavation and embankment throughout this section (from the east base of the Rocky mountains tu the Spokane river, 365 miles) will be large in 2a 10 ROUTE NEAR THE FORTY-SEVENTH AND FORTY-NINTH PARALLELS. amount, and expensive; there will be frequent rock-excavation, and the bulk of the rock- excavation in the entire route will be in this section. It is evident that the difficulties of con- struction will be great, and the cost excessive. Upon the passes of the Rocky mountains, Governor Stevens says: ‘‘It is not doubted there are other passes in this portion of the Rocky mountain range, even better than those explored ; they are indicated by the general depression of the mountain range, with the greater fre- quency of the streams stretching out to meet each other from the opposite slopes of the mount- ains ; and I consider it important that, in future operations, a whole season should be devoted to their thorough examination, and that instrumental surveys should be made of the pass found to be the most practicable.’’ Leaving the Spokane, the route enters the Great Plain of the Columbia, a table-land stretch- ing from the Ceeur d’Alene to the Cascade mountains, a distance of 200 miles. Its central and western portions are of trap formation, and are described on the map as sandy, rocky, and sterile. Its summit, 800 feet above the Spokane river, is readily attained, the treeless plain is crossed in a distance of 110 miles, and a suitable point for crossing the Columbia river, 400 or 450 yards wide, reached, 140 miles distant from the Spokane. This point is about Giaaliy distant from the cayiednle waters of the Pacific in Puget sound and in the Columbia river. The whole intermediate space is occupied by the Cascade mountains, with their secondary chains, spurs, and high, broken table-lands, through which there are but two passes reported practicable for a railroad—that of the Columbia river and that of the Yakima, sometimes erroneously called the Snoqualme. The Yakima Pass gives the most direct route to Puget sound, the distance by it being 150 or 160 miles shorter than by the Columbia River Pass. It requires a tunnel through rock, (siliceous conglomerate,) either 4,000 yards long, 3,000 feet above the sea, or a tunnel 11,840 yards long, 2,400 feet above the sea. The reconnaissance did not extend westward from the summit more than three miles. The evidence respecting the amount of snow found on the summit of the pass at the close of winter, makes it probable that it is then 20 feet deep there. This question should be satisfactorily settled, and the reconnaissance completed, before the practicability of the pass can be considered established. In the opinion of the officer making the reconnaissance—Captain McClellan, Corps of Engineers—the pass is barely practicable, and only at a great cost of time, labor, and money. Under every favorable condition of position the construction of either of the proposed tunnels would be seriously objectionable ; but where the position itself is so unfavorable, the final advantages should be very great to determine the selection of this route. The information now possessed is sufficient to decide against this route. The route by the pass of the Columbia follows that river from the Great Plain, being gen- erally located, as far as the Dalles, in bottom-lands which present no difficulties. From the Dalles to near Vancouver, 90 miles, the rocky bluffs close upon the river, and the work required will be similar to that of the Hudson River railroad along the mountain region, In the opinion of Mr. Lander, ‘‘the high floods to which the Columbia river is subject, are serious obstacles to obtaining the best location for cheap construction offered by its valley.’’ In 1854, the rise of the river during the flood was 10 feet above spring level, and 17 feet above summer level. The Columbia river is navigable for sea-going vessels to Vancouver, the point now reached ; but the unfavorable character of the entrance to that river, and the great superiority of the ports on Puget sound, seemed to render it expedient to adopt some one of the latter as the Pacific terminus of this route. Continuing down the Columbia, therefore, through bottom- lands, to the mouth of the Cowlitz, the route enters the wide and comparatively flat and wooded valley of that river, ascends it, and, crossing over the wooded and prairie plains, which, “though not fully explored, are sufficiently well known to insure the unusually favorable character of the country for the construction of a railway,’’ reaches Seattle, the best port on the east side of Puget sound. ROUTE NEAR THE FORTY-SEVENTH AND FORTY-NINTH PARALLELS. WL From the Rocky mountains to Seattle, wood, stone, and other building materials, are found along the line of the route, or at points so accessible to it, that it may be considered well sup- plied with them throughout. The information upon the character of the soil upon the route does not admit of satisfactory conclusions to be deduced. It is sufficient, however, to show that in this latitude, as in that of the Arkansas, the uncultivable region begins about the 99th meridian. Immediately under the Rocky mountains the soil improves, probably from the mountain wash. The tertiary and cretaceous formations extend, in these latitudes, from about the 97th meridian to the eastern base of the Rocky mountains, and, under the meteorological conditions found in this space, are unsuitable for agricultural purposes. There are some very limited exceptions to this gen- eral character in portions of river bottoms. These tertiary formations in the arid regions of Asia and Africa form the great deserts of those countries. The country west of the Rocky mountains to the Pacific slopes may likewise be described as one of general sterility. The eastern portion of the Great Plain of the Columbia is represented to be grassed; its middle and western parts almost entirely sandy, rocky, and sterile. The mountain masses, spurs, and table-lands of the Cascade chain, east of the main crest, are sterile. There are exceptions to this general sterility in the mountain valleys, where the soil is better constituted for fertility, and the rains more abundant; but, although portions of these are suitable for agricultural purposes, they are better adapted to grazing. The sum of the areas of cultivable soil in the Rocky mountain region does not exceed, if it equals, 1,000 square miles. West of the Cascade mountains there are rich river bottoms, clay formations that are arable, and prairies offering good grazing. The principal favorable characteristics of this route are its low profile, low grades, and the low elevation of the mountain passes, and its connexion with the Missouri and Columbia rivers. The reported sum of the ascents and descents is the least of all the routes; this proportion may, however, be changed when the minor undulations are measured. The principal unfavor- able features are, in construction, the tunnel required on the Rocky mountains, and the difficulty and expense of construction from the eastern approach of the Rocky mountains to the Spokane river, and the expense of the construction along the Columbia river, from the Dalles to near Vancouver. These, when considered carefully, are serious objections to the route, not only in the money, but the time, they will consume. In thickly-populated countries their construction would be difficult and costly; situated as they are—the Rocky mountain region especially—the difficulties, cost, and time required, are greatly increased. The severely-cold character of the climate throughout the whole route, except the portion west of the Cascade mountains, is one of its unfavorable features; and, for national considera- tions, its proximity to the dominions of a powerful foreign sovereignty must be a serious objection to it as a military road. Its cost has been estimated by Governor Stevens, by the Columbia River valley and the Cow- litz, at $117,121,000; the cost of work at eastern prices having had 25 per cent. added to it from the Bois des Sioux to the Rocky mountains, and 40 per cent. thence to the Pacific. It has been thought safer to add 100 per cent. to the cost at eastern prices from the eastern slope of the Rocky mountains to the Pacific. This would swell the estimate to $150,871,000. Should Governor Stevens have included a full equipment in his estimate, $10,000,000 should be subtracted from this sum to bring the estimate in accordance with those of the other routes, and the cost then becomes $140,871,000. The length of the route from St. Paul to Vancouver is 1,864 miles. The sum of ascents and descents, as far as reported, is 18,100 feet, which will be equivalent, in the cost of working the road, to an increased horizontal distance of 343 miles: this added to the length of the line of location, gives for equated length 2,207 miles. From St. Paul to Seattle, by the Columbia route, is 2,025 miles, which the sum of ascents and descents increases to an equated distance of 2,387 miles. 12 ROUTE NEAR THE FORTY-FIRST AND FORTY-SECOND PARALLELS. The work upon this route, under Governor Stevens, embraced a wider field of exploration than that upon any other explored, and a great amount of topographical and general inform- ation was collected in relation to the country traversed. The necessary astronomical observa- tions were not made to determine accurately the longitudes of the several stations, and the loss of his barometrical observations, after the completion of the field-work, left no means of revising and verifying the profile of the route. The examination of the approaches and passes of the Cascade mountains, made by Captain McClellan, of the Corps of Engineers, presents a reconnaissance of great value, and though performed under adverse circumstances, exhibits all the information necessary to determine the practicability of this portion of the route, and reflects the highest credit on the capacity and resources of that officer. ROUTE NEAR THE FORTY-FIRST AND FORTY-SECOND PARALLELS OF NORTH LATITUDE. About one-half of the route in this latitude, extending from the Missouri river to Fort Bridger, on a tributary of Green river, has not been explored with a special reference to the practicability of constructing a railroad, and the reports do not contain all the details neces- sary to the elucidation of the subject. The information respecting it is to be found in the reports of Col. Fremont and Capt. Stansbury. From Fort Bridger to Fort Reading, on the Sacramento river, the exploration has been made by Lieut. HE. G. Beckwith, under the appropriation for that purpose. The route may commence on the Missouri, either at Fort Leavenworth, about 245 miles from the Mississippi at St. Louis, or at Council Bluffs, about 267 miles from the Mississippi at Rock Island, ascend the Platte and enter the eastern chain of the Rocky mountains (the Black Hills) by the North fork and its tributary, the Sweet Water. Another route, by the South fork and a tributary called Lodge Pole creek, has been suggested by Capt. Stansbury as shorter and less expensive; but the information respecting it is not sufficiently full to make further mention of it necessary. From the Missouri river to the entrance of the Black Hills, 30 miles above Fort Laramie, 520 miles from Council Bluffs, and 755 miles from Fort Leavenworth, the route resembles others from the Mississippi to the Rocky mountains, and needs no special mention. Its cost per mile will be about the same. The route west of this point crosses many lateral streams that have cut deep ravines into the soil, and leaves the Platte just below the Hot Spring Gap, above which it is walled in by cafions. To avoid these, the route crosses a range of hills 800 feet above the river, and descend- ing to the Sweet Water, a branch of the Platte, follows that stream to its source, where the summit of the plateau of the South Pass (elevation 7,490 feet) is attained. The valley of the Sweet Water is generally rather open, but occasionally it cuts through mountain spurs, forming cajions. From the first gorge in the Black Hills to the summit of the pass, 291 miles, the work will be difficult and expensive, and is assimilated in amount to that of the Baltimore and Ohio railroad, From the South Pass the route follows down Sandy creek, a tributary of Green river, to the crossing of the latter, and thence to Fort Bridger, (elevation 7,254 feet,) on Black’s fork, likewise a tributary of Green river. The amount of work on this section would be consid- erably less than on the preceding. From Council Bluffs to Fort Bridger the distance is 942 miles; from Fort Leavenworth 1,072 miles. The route now ascends the divide between the waters of Green river and those of the Great Salt lake, by the valley of Black’s fork, or of one of its tributaries, with grades of 69.5 and 40.3 feet per mile. The summit is a broad terrace at the foot of the Uinta mountains, and has an elevation of 8,373 feet. From this point the line descends over the undulating country ROUTE NEAR THE FORTY-FIRST AND FORTY-SECOND PARALLELS. 13 separating the Uinta and Bear River mountains, crossing the head of Bear river, and, entering the valley of White Clay creek at its head, follows down that stream to its junction with Weber river. The Wahsatch mountains now intervene between this plateau country ‘and the Great Salt lake, and the passage through them may be effected by following Weber river, or by ascend- ing to near the sources of the Timpanogos; and descending that stream—both nate affluents, directly or indirectly, of the Great Salt lake—the distances are about the same to their common point on thaf lake. There are canons upon both these streams. That of the Timpanogos is 10 miles in length, and narrow, being from 100 to 300 yards in width. It is direct in its general course, but must be bridged at several points, to avoid short curves. The sides are of blue limestone, and will require rock-blasting at some points. The river, 30 yards wide, descends with a powerful current, and, when most swollen, is six feet above its ordinary level. On Weber river there are two cations. The upper is rather a gorge or defile, 84 miles long. The mountains rise to a great height above it, and are rocky and precipitous, and much broken by ravines. The river is winding, and it “i be necessary to cross it frequently. The lower canon, near the borders of the valley of Great Salt lake, is four miles long, direct, with an average width of 175 yards, the stream being 30 yards wide, and impinging frequently with great force against the base of the mountains, which, however, are sufficiently retreating to admit of the practicable passage of a railway. Entering the valley of Great Salt lake from either this or the Timpanogos cafion, there is no obstacle to the construction of a railway passing by the south end of the lake, and crossing the Jordan, Tuilla valley, and Spring or Lone Rock valley, to its west side. By the valley of the Timpanogos, the distance from near Fort Bridger to the south end of the Great Salt lake, on the western side of the valley of the Jordan, is 182.55 miles; the greatest grade required, 84 feet to the mile. The amount of work required on this section, excepting that along the canon, will not, in the opinion of Lieutenant Beckwith, be great. From the western shore of Great Salt lake to the valley of Humboldt river, the country con- sists alternately of mountains, in more or less isolated ridges, and of open level plains, rising gradually from the level of the lake on the east, to the base of the Humboldt mountains on the west; that is, from 4,200 feet to 6,000 feet above the sea. West of the Humboldt mount- ains the country is of the same character, the plains declining until, at the west shore of Mud lake, usually called the foot of the Sierra Nevada, the elevation is 4,100 feet. The mountains in this space of 500 miles, (by the route travelled 600 miles,) between the Great Salt lake and the foot of the Sierra Nevada, have a general north and south course. Occasionally cross-spurs close in the valleys to the north and south, but more frequently this isolation is only apparent. The mountains are sharp, rocky, and inaccessible in many parts, but are low and easily passed in others. Their general elevation varies from 1,500 to 3,000 feet above the valleys, and but few of them retain snow upon their highest peaks during the summer. They are liberally supplied with springs and small streams, but the latter seldom extend far into the plains. At the time of melting snows there are many small ponds and lakes, but at other seasons the waters are absorbed by the soil near the base of the mountains. Grass is found in abundance upon nearly every range, but timber 1s very scarce—a small scat- tered growth of cedar only being seen upon afew ranges. Hast of the Humboldt mountains the growth of cedars is more abundant, and the grass better, than to the west. The valleys rarely have a width east and west of more than five or ten miles, but often have a large extent north and south. They are irregular in form, frequently extending around the ends of mount- ains, or uniting to succeeding valleys by level passages. The greater part of the surface of these valleys is merely sprinkled by several varieties of sombre artemisia, (wild sage,) pre- senting the aspect of a dreary waste. Though there are spots more thickly covered with this vegetation, yet the soil is seldom half covered with it, even for a few acres, and is nowhere 14 ROUTE NEAR THD FORTY-FIRST AND FORTY-SECOND PARALLELS. suitable for settlement and cultivation. Immediately west of Great Salt lake there is a plain of mud, clay, and sand, impregnated with salt, seventy miles in width from east to west by its longest line, and forty at a narrower part further south, thirty miles of which must be piled for the passage of a railroad across it. A railroad may be carried over this series of valleys and around the mountain masses, at nearly the general level of the valleys. The route in this manner reaches the foot of the Humboldt mountains, a narrow but elevated ridge, containing much snow during most of the year, and crosses them by a pass nine miles long, about three of which are occupied by a narrow, rocky ravine, above which the road should be carried on the sloping spurs of the mountains on the western descent; elevation of summit 6,579 feet above the sea. At the time when passed, 21st May, snow covered the high peaks above it, and a few drifts extended into the ravines down to the level of its summit. The descent is now made to the open valley of Humboldt river, which is followed for about 190 miles. The steepest grade proposed in the pass of Humboldt mountain is 89 feet per mile for eight miles, but this can be reduced by gaining distance to any desirable extent. The Humboldt river, as described by Colonel Fremont, is formed by two streams rising in mountains west of the Great Salt lake. Its general direction is from east to west, coursing among broken ranges of mountains; its length about three hundred miles. It is without affluents, and terminates near the foot of the Sierra Nevada in a marshy lake. It has a moderate current—is from two to six feet deep in the dry season, and probably not fordable anywhere below the junction of the two streams during the melting of the snows. The valley varies in width from a few miles to twenty, and, excepting the immediate river-banks, is a dry, sandy plain, without grass, wood, or arable soil. Its own immediate valley (bottom) is a rich alluvion, covered with blue grass, herds-grass, clover, and other nutritious grasses, and its course is marked through the plain by a line of willow. Of the three lines from the Humboldt river to the foot of the Sierra Nevada, the best is that by the Noble’s Pass road, as it avoids the principal range of mountains crossed on the line followed a few miles south. The line followed crosses two ranges of the general character of the Basin mountains, and reaches the foot of the Madelin Pass of the Sierra Nevada, on the west shore of Mud lake, in a distance of 119 miles, and at an elevation of 4,079 feet above the sea. In this latitude the Sierra Nevada was found to be a plateau about 5,200 feet above the sea, 40 miles in width from east to west, enclosed at these limits by low mountains, the summits of the passes through which are 400 and 500 feet above the base. The plain is covered with irregular spurs, ridges, and isolated peaks, rising a few hundred feet, limiting it in a north and south direction sometimes to a space of a few hundred yards, and at others to that of ten miles. These spurs, &c., on the eastern portion of the plateau, are sparsely covered with cedar ; on the western, heavily covered with pine. There is no drainage from this plain, the waters of a few small streams and springs forming grassy ponds upon its surface. In its general features it is similar to the Great Basin, excepting that as more rain falls upon it, the vegetation is comparatively luxuriant. There are two routes by which this plain may be reached from the Great Basin, and the descent made to the Sacramento river. That by the Madelin Pass, the more northern, is most probably the better of the two, and is the only one necessary to be considered. Leaving Mud lake, it ascends by the valley of Smoky creek for three miles, through a narrow gorge (from 100 to 150 yards wide) in an outlying spur of the Sierra Nevada. After this the route is over more open ground, varying, in degree, to the summit of the pas- sage through the eastern ridge bounding the Sierra Nevada plateau. The pass is thus far of a very favorable character—the length of the ascent is 22.89 miles; the difference of elevation, 1,172 feet; the altitude of the summit, 5,667 feet; and the steepest slope is 75 feet per mile. The plateau being gained, is crossed by a nearly level line to the low ridge bounding it on the west, the summit elevation of which, 5,736 feet, is attained by following a ravine valley. The descent to the Sacramento along one of its tributaries is now commenced, and is at ROUTE NEAR THE FORTY FIRST AND FORTY-SECOND PARALLELS. 15 first rapid. A cut is proposed at the summit, 120 feet deep, running out to the surface at either end, making a length of four miles, ana a grade of 124 feet to the mile for 2.4 miles. It may be preferable to tunnel or to cut only one-half the depth proposed. The open plain of Round valley, on the Sacramento, is reached 15 miles from the summit, (difference of eleva- tion 1,300 feet,) located for one-half that distance on the mountain side, which is broken by ravines, The route now lies over the smooth plain of Round valley for 15 miles, to the head of the first cation on the Sacramento. This cation is a formidable obstacle to be overcome. Its entire length is nearly 14 miles, succeeded by an open valley of similar extent, which is followed by a second cation, nine miles in length, of the same character as the first. From the mouth of Canoe creek, four miles below the foot of the second canon, for the space of 96 miles the course of the Sacramento lies entirely through heavily-timbered mountains, which rise precipi- tously from the river-banks to the height of from 1,500 to 2,000 feet above the stream. Its course is very sinuous, with all varieties of curves greater than a right-angle, and is seldom entirely straight for two miles consecutively. The construction of this portion of the route, 136 miles in length, would be one of no ordinary difficulty or expense under the most favorable circumstances of dense population, and the facilities of railroad construction which it would afford. It is impossible, with the data presented, to form a reliable opinion of its probable cost. Seventeen miles above Fort Reading the open valley of the Sacramento is attained, over which a railroad may be carried to the bay of San Francisco, 250 or 300 miles distant. The distance from Fort Bridger to Fort Reading by the line of Lieutenant Beckwith’s profile is 1,012 miles; from Fort Leavenworth to Fort Bridger, 1,072 distance from Fort Leavenworth to Fort Reading, on the eam 4084 es and to Benicia 2,264 miles. The distance from Council Bluffs to Benicia by the above route is 2,134 miles. Using the line along which the route can be located in the Great Basin, about 103 miles shorter than that travelled, the distances become, from Fort Bridger to Fort Reading, 909 miles; from Fort Leavenworth to Fort Reading, 1,980 miles; and to Benicia, 2,161 miles. The distance from Council Bluffs to Benicia becomes 2,031 miles. The points of supply for ties, lumber, &c., are at distances apart of 500, 300, 200, and 700 miles, as timber is only found at the eastern extremity of the route, on the Black Hills, Wind River mountains, the Uinta and Wahsatch mountains, and on the western slopes of the Sierra Nevada. The scattered growth of cedar upon the Basin mountains may, perhaps, be found available for ties. Should the coal-beds of Green river prove to be of such quality and extent as to admit of being profitably mined, the points of supply of fuel—the same as those just designated for lumber—will be importantly increased. Coal may then be had for nearly the cost of mining it at the eastern terminus of the road, for cost of mining near its middle, and at its western terminus for the cost of mining, and freight to that point from Puget sound. Fuel for working-parties will generally be found contiguous to the route. The winter climate is known to be severe on the plains east of the Rocky mountains in this latitude. That it is more severe, and of long duration, upon the great table-land of the Rocky mountains, is to be inferred. Lieut. Beckwith found the sun had not yet begun to melt the snow upon the terrace divide on the western border of the plateau, and about 1,000 feet above it, when he crossed the former, on the 10th April. The snow was here from twelve to sixteen ieee deep, and had oduinnuictechs in deep drifts on the northeast slopes of the hills and ravines. Captain Stansbury found the Uinta mountains covered with snow for a considerable distance from their summits on the 19th August. The quantity of snow that falls upon the great undulating plain between Fort Laramie and Fort Bridger is not exactly known. It ig probable that no unusual difficulty may be apprehended from it on this plain, 16 ROUTE NEAR THE FORTY-FIRST AND FORTY-SECOND PARALLELS. or on the terrace divide, where crossed by Lieut. Beckwith; but the fall of snow in the Wah- satch and other mountains is very much greater, and accumulates in their gorges, ravines, and cafons, to great depths. Apparently, Lieut. Beckwith does not apprehend unusual difficulties from this cause along the proposed railroad route in this region, or in that of the Madelin Pass. The supply of water upon the Rocky mountain plateau must be very limited at certain seasons of the year: the distances apart of these supplies are not given. Abundant supplies of water were found by Lieut. Beckwith on the mountains of the Great Basin. The season of the year when he crossed it—the spring—was the most favorable in this respect. On this route, as on others, from the 98th or 99th meridian to the western slopes of the Sierra Nevada, a distance of 1,400 miles, the soil is uncultivable, excepting the compara- tively limited area of the Mormon settlement, and an occasional river-bottom and mountain valley of small extent. West of the Black Hills the plains are covered with artemisia, rarely furnishing any grazing except along the water-courses—the mountains being generally clothed, to a greater or less extent, with grass. The barren aspect of the Great Basin has been already described. In that desolate region there are but few and very limited areas where the conditions of soil, water, and temperature requisite for cultivation, are found. The features of this route, favorable to the economical construction of a railroad, are apparent from the description of it which has just been given. Its unfavorable features may be briefly described: as the costly construction, for nearly three hundred miles along the Platte and Sweet Water, in ascending to the summit of the South Pass; in the cajion otf the Timpanogos; in the two canons of the Sacramento, fourteen and nine miles in length; and in the very sinuous course of the river, for the space of ninety-six miles, through heavily- timbered mountains rising precipitously from the stream—the cost of constructing a railroad along which cannot be properly estimated until minute surveys are made. Although the route passes over elevated regions, the sum of ascents and descents is the next least after that of the 47th parallel, which is to be attributed to the table-land character of the mountain districts. It partakes of the character of the route near the 47th parallel, in the long and severe winters on the plains east of the Rocky mountains and westward to the Great Basin. The cost, as estimated in the office, from Council Bluffs to Benicia, a distance of 2,031 miles, is $116,095,000. The statistics of the route will be found in the table appended. The survey of the western portion of this route by Lieutenant Beckwith, has resulted in the discovery of a more direct and practicable route than was believed to exist from the Great Salt lake to the valley of the Sacramento. Since his report was made, a brief communication from Brevet Lieutenant Colonel Steptoe, commanding the troops in Utah, has announced the discovery of a still more direct route from Great Salt lake to San Francisco. The new portion of this route passes to the south of Humboldt or Mary’s river, and, entirely avoiding the difficulties. experienced by travellers along that stream, proceeds to the valley of Carson river, being well supplied with water and grass. From Carson river it crosses the Sierra Nevada by the passes at the head of that river, and descends to the valley of the Sacramento, being practicable throughout for wagons. In the absence of instrumental surveys affording data for the construction of profiles, no opinion can be formed as to the practicability of this route for a railroad. Should it be found practicable, however, it will lessen the length of the route of the 41st parallel, and still further diminish its difficulties, already known to be less than on any other route except that of the 32d parallel. ROUTE NEAR THE THIRTY-EIGHTH AND THIRTY-NINTH PARALLELS. Mi ROUTE NEAR THE THIRTY-EIGHTH AND THIRTY-NINTH PARALLELS OF NORTH LATITUDE. The general consideration that determined the position of the route to be examined near the 38th and 39th parallels of latitude, was its central position geographically, it being about midway between the northern and southern boundary lines of the United States, which is like- wise the position, nearly, of the Bay of San Francisco; the two termini of the route, St. Louis and San Francisco, being respectively in latitudes 39° and 38°, nearly. Moreover, a route near these parallels would probably give the shortest road from the Bay of San Francisco to the navigable waters of the Mississippi. The exploration of the route conducted by Captain J. W. Gunnison, corps of Topographical Engineers, commenced on the Missouri at the mouth of the Kansas, about 245 miles from the Mississippi at St. Louis. The Kansas, and its branch called the Smoky Hill fork, were followed to a convenient point for crossing to the Arkansas, the valley of this latter river having been entered west of the Great Bend and near the meridian of 99°. The route then ascended the valley of the Arkansas to the mouth of Apishpa creek, fifty miles above Bent’s Fort; leaving it here, and crossing to the entrance of the Rocky mountains, here called the Sierra Blanca, at the Huerfano Butte, on the river of that name, a tributary of the Arkansas. The elevation at this point is 6,099 feet ; its distance from Westport, mouth of the Kansas river, by the rail- road route, 654 miles. Of the several passes through the Rocky mountains connecting the tributaries of the Huerfano with those of the Rio del Norte, but one, the Sangre de Cristo, was found practicable for a railroad, the new and only practicable approach to this pass being explored by Capt. Gunnison. By side location the summit, 9,219 feet above the sea, 692 miles from Westport, was attained, and the descent made to the valley of the Rio Grande with practicable though heavy grades; and thence the grades were favorable to the vicinity of Fort Massachusetts. The western chain of the Rocky mountains is now to be crossed in order to gain and traverse the basins of the two great tributaries of the Colorado of the West, Grand and Green rivers. For this purpose the valley of San Luis, an extensive, uncultivable plain, covered for the most part with wild sage, was ascended with easy grades to Sahwatch creek, one of whose affluents rises ina pass of the Rocky mountains, here called the Sahwatch mountains, known by the name of the Coo-che-to-pa Pass. The approach to the summit of the pass, 10,032 feet above the sea, 816 miles from Westport, is not favorable, the pass in this part having a defile character, overhung occasionally by walls of igneous rock. ‘To cross the summit, a grade of 124 feet per mile for several miles, and a tunnel nearly two miles long, are required. The descent, with grades varying from 41 to 108 feet per mile, is by the valley of Pass creek, along which much cutting and filling will be necessary, as the hills are cut by numerous ravines. For 16 miles before the junction of Pass ereek with Coo-che-to-pa creek, the former passes through a broken cation. After following Coo-che-to-pa creek seven miles, the valley of Grand river is attained. The route follows the valley of this river 173 miles, then crosses the divide to Green river, 68 miles, and by the tributaries of the latter approaches the pass through the Wahsatch mount- ains. A tunnel three-quarters of a mile long is here required, the eastern approach to which is by means of a grade of 125 feet per mile for 6} miles, and a descent to the west for 5 miles of 131 feet per mile. Thence westward along the valley of Salt creek for 18 miles the grade is 95 feet per mile, 16 miles of which is through a rocky cafion, intersected by lateral streams. The route then enters the valley of the Sevier, the exploration terminating on this river, 86 miles further on, and 1,348 miles from Westport. From the western border of the State of Missouri to the Rocky mountains, 650 miles, no timber suitable for railroad purposes will be found, upon which reliance can be placed. From the Coo-che-to-pa Pass to the Great Basin, 500 miles, there is none available on the route, and the nearest supplies on the mountains bordering the Great Basin are in latitudes 40° and 41°. 3a 18 ROUTE NEAR THE THIRTY-EIGHTH AND THIRTY-NINTH PARALLELS, With building-stone it is about as well supplied as the other routes. Of water there is a sufficient supply, except between Grand and Green rivers, a distance of 70 miles, where, at certain seasons of the year, little or none is found. The soil west of the meridian of 99° is, under the present meteorological conditions, unculti- vable, except in limited portions of river-bottoms and small mountain valleys; these latter, from their great elevation, being better adapted to grazing than agricultural pnrposes. This description is completely in accordance with the geological formation and meteorological con- dition; the former, from the meridian of 99° west, being apparently tertiary, excepting in the high mountain passes. This route may be considered to possess, in common with that of the 41st parallel, the large body of fertile soil in Utah Territory occupied by the Mormons, the area of which is about 1,108 square miles. The coal field of Missouri lies at the eastern extremity of this route; the indications of coal in the Grand and Green River basins make it highly probable that seams sufficiently thick for profitable mining exist there. In regard to grade and construction, it is unnecessary to enter into any discussion of that portion of the route from Westport to the Sangre de Cristo Pass. It presents no peculiar diffi- culties or advantages, but is similar to the routes of the 47th and 41st parallels. It would appear that the Sangre de Cristo and Coo-che-to-pa Passes are practicable in grade; but the construction of the road through the Coo-che-to-pa Pass, and the western approach to it, would be costly under favourable circumstances of population, &c., not only on account of the tunnel, but of the numerous ravines that are crossed west of the pass, and the cation that follows. The following brief enumeration of the character and extent of the difficulties to be encountered between the Coo-che-to-pa Pass and the Great Basin, make it evident that the route must be considered impracticable. From the head of the cafion on Grand river, not far below the mouth of Coo-che-to-pa creek, to the Uncompahgra river, a distance of 70 miles, the ground is cut up with deep, wide, pre- cipitous ravines, the largest several hundred feet deep. These ravines cannot be turned near the mountains without entountering similar difficulties, and at a cost greater than that of a route along the river. Thus the route is forced upon Grand river, and along its cafion, 60 miles in length, broken and interrupted by the deep ravines already mentioned and numerous smaller gullies. The roadway throughout the greater part of this distance must be blasted out ut solid rock, and these wide ravines, from 100 to 200 feet deep, where they cut through the cation, crossed by viaducts or filling. Then follow 50 miles to the mouth of Blue river, the construction still of a difficult and costly character, from the caiions of the river and broken nature of the ground. From Blue to Green river is 100 miles, over which the road will require numerous bridges and culverts, and a costly road-bed foundation of broken stone or piling over a clayey soil, which in wet weather is almost impassable. From Green river to the Wahsatch Pass, about 80 miles, the construction would still be of a costly character, the country being of the same ravine and chasm-like nature as that between the mouth of Coo-che-to-pa creek and Uncompahgra river, though on a smaller scale. Next follows the Wahsatch Pass, the work in which is difficult and expensive. The greatest grade is 131 feet per mile; a tunnel not quite three-quarters of a mile long is requisite; and finally, a cafion 16 miles long on Salt creek, the walls of which are frequently broken by lateral streams, gives the only route along which the road ‘can be brought, by cutting in solid rock at very great expense. The difficulties of engineering and the cost of construction of this portion of the route from the Coo-che-to-pa Pass to Sevier river, in the Great Basin, a distance of about 500 miles, would be so great that it may be pronounced impracticable; and it is evident, from the report ROUTE NEAR THE THIRTY-EIGHTH AND THIRTY-NINTH PARALLELS. 19 of Lieutenant Beckwith, that, to use his own language, ‘‘no other line exists in the imme- diate vicinity of this, worthy of any attention in connexion with the construction of a railroad from the Mississippi river to the Great Basin.’’ It is unnecessary, therefore, to consider the route further, or to enter into any discussion connected with the probable practicability and cost of constructing and working a railroad over other portions of the route where counterbalancing advantages are not found to compensate, in any degree, for the enormous cost of that under consideration. Laying aside the utterly impracticable nature of this route, the following considerations will show its disadvantages as regards expenses of working, supposing it constructed : From Westport to the west base of the Un-kuk-oo-ap mountains is 1,323 miles; sum of ascents, 23,190 feet; of descents, 19,052 feet; length of equivalent horizontal line for the route, 2,123 miles. Of the direct route from the point at the western base of the Un-kuk-oo-ap mountains, near where the survey under Capt. Gunnison terminated, to the Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass, there is no survey or positive information. There is every reason to belive that it is, for the most part, a desert of the same general character as other portions of the Great Basin. Supposing the route to be a.straight line, with uniform descent from the Un-kuk-oo-ap mountains to the entrance of the Tay-ee-chay-pah Pass, in latitude 35° 5’, (no pass being known to be prac- ticable to the north of it in this portion of the Sierra Nevada,) the distance will be 430 miles, and the descent 1,830 feet; the equated horizontal distance, 464 miles. From the entrance of the Tay-ee-chay-pah Pass to San Francisco is 326 miles; sum of ascents, 1,308 feet; sum of descents, 4,608 feet; equated length, 440 miles. Adding these together, with the equated distance from the mouth of the Kansas to the west base of the Un-kuk-oo-ap mountains, we have the total equated distance from Westport to San Francisco, 3,027 miles—the length of the straight horizontal line, which supposes no obstacle to be avoided, being only 1,500 miles. The distance from Sevier river to Great Salt lake is 120 miles; sum of ascents and descents, 1,600 feet; equated distance, 150 miles; thence to Benicia, by the route near the 41st parallel, explored by Lieut. Beckwith, is 872 miles; sum of ascents and descents, 15,200 feet: making the.equivalent horizontal line 1,160 miles; which added to the equated distance from West- port to Sevier river, 2,050 miles, we have a total of 3,360 miles, as the equated distance by this route from Westport to Benicia. ; Neither in soil, climate, productions, population, nor in any other respect, does it possess advantages superior to other routes favoring the construction and working of a railroad. _ The exploration of this route, conducted by Capt. Gunnison, of the Corps of Topographical Engineers, exhibits the high professional skill and sound judgment which characterized that officer. The extensive and reliable information which he collected, and the exact manner in which his operations were conducted, up to the period when he lost his life in the discharge of his duty, show how thoroughly he would have completed the task he had commenced, and how great a loss the service sustained in his untimely death. Several of his civil assistants fell with him, and the charge of the survey devolved upon Lieut. Beckwith, of the artillery, who has made, from the field-notes left by Capt. Gunnison, a thorough report of his explora- tions. Satisfied of the impracticability of the line he had traversed, Lieut. Beckwith com- , menced an exploration eastward from the Great Salt lake, to connect that position with the line of the 41st parallel, and then returning to Salt lake, continued the survey westward to the waters of the Pacific. This work, in all its parts, has been well done, and the topography well represented. More than ordinary credit is due to this officer, as the task performed by him was not in the line of his usual duties, and was executed without the aid of assistants, and with the means left to the party after a season of field operations. 20 ROUTE NEAR THE THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL. ROUTE NEAR THE THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL OF NORTH LATITUDE. The general features which have determined the position of this route, the exploration of which was conducted by Lieut. A. W. Whipple, Topographical Engineers, are the exten- sion, west and east, of the interlocking tributaries of the Mississippi, the Rio Grande, and the Colorado of the West. It would appear to possess also a greater yearly amount of rain than the regions immediately north and south of it—and, as a consequence, a better supply of fuel and timber. Commencing at Fort Smith, on the Arkansas river, about 270 miles from the Mississippi at Memphis, the route, as far as the Antelope Hills on the Canadian, a distance of 400 miles, may follow either the valleys of the Arkansas and Canadian, or a shorter line perhaps, but over more ground, south of the Canadian, this latter route branching again, and following either the valley of the Washita, or the dividing ridge between it and the Canadian. From the Antelope Hills the route continues along the bottom of the Canadian, on the right bank, to the mouth of Tucumcari creek, about 250 miles, and ascends by the valley of Tucumeari, or by that of Pajarito creek, to the dividing-ridge between the Canadian and the Pecos rivers, elevation about 5,543 feet, and enters the valley of the latter. It follows this valley until, by means of a tributary, it rises to the high table-land, or basin, lying east of the Rocky mountains, elevation about 7,000 feet, crosses the elevated Salinas basin, 30 miles wide, the lowest point being 6,471 feet, and gains the divide in the Rocky mountains, eleva- tion about 7,000 feet; from which point it descends to Albuquerque, or Isleta, on the Rio Grande, through the San Pedro Pass; or it may descend to the Rio Grande by the valley of the Galisteo river, north of Sandia mountain. A third route is indicated along the valley of the Pecos to its headwaters; thence to an affluent of the Galisteo ; and thence, as before, to the Rio Grande. Isleta, on the Rio Grande, is 854 miles from Fort Smith, and 4,945 feet above the sea. Crossing the ridge separating the Rio Grande from the Puerco, the route follows the valley © of its tributary, the San José, to one of its sources in a pass of the Sierra Madre, called the Camino del Obispo; at the summit, (elevation 8,250 feet,) a tunnel three-fourths of a mile long, at an elevation not less than 8,000 feet, is required, when the descent is made to the Zuni river and near the Pueblo of Zuni; the route then crosses, over undulating ground, to the Puerco of the West, at the Navajo spring. Another route across the Sierra Madre, about twenty miles further north, was examined by Mr. Campbell, which is apparently far more favorable. The profile, however, is not from reliable instrumental examination. The height of the summit is about 7,750 feet above the sea. The Puerco of the West heads in this pass, and the route follows the valley of this stream, (intersecting the other line at Navajo spring,) to its junction with the Colorado Chiquito; then the valley of that stream to the foot of the southeastern slopes of the San Francisco mountains, elevation 4,775 feet; distance from Fort Smith 1,182 miles, and from the crossing of the Rio Grande 328 miles. Here it ascends to the dividing ridge between the waters of the Gila on the south, and of the Colorado of the West on the north, and continues (or nearly so) upon it for about 200 miles, to the Aztec Pass, elevation 6,281 feet ; distance from Fort Smith 1,350 miles. The highest point reached upon this undulating ridge is 7,472 feet, at Leroux’s spring, at the foot of the San Francisco mountain. From the Aztec Pass, the descent to the Colorado of the West is made by a circuitous route northward along valleys of its tribu- taries, the largest and last being Bill Williams’s fork, the mouth of which, on the Colorado, is 1,522 miles from Fort Smith, and at an elevation above the sea of about 208 feet. The Colorado is now ascended 34 miles, when the route, leaving it at the Needles, follows what was erroneously supposed to be the valley of the Mohave river, but which proved to be the valley of a stream, dry at the time, whose source was in an elevated ridge, which probably divides the Great Basin from the waters of the Colorado. The summit having been attained, ROUTE NEAR THE THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL. 21 at an elevation of 5,262 feet above the sea, the descent is made to Soda lake, the recipient at some seasons of the waters of the Mohave river, 1,117 feet above the sea, with an average grade of 100 feet to the mile for 41 miles—the steepest grade yet required on this route. From Soda lake the ascent to the summit of the Cajon Pass, elevation 4,179 feet, in the Sierra Nevada, is made by following the valley of the Mohave river. The summit of this pass, by the line of location, is 1,798 miles from Fort Smith, and 242 from the point of crossing the Colorado, Here a tunnel of 23 or 3;4 miles through white conglomerate sandstone is required, descending to the west with an inclination of 100 feet to the mile, which grade will be the average for 22 miles into the valley of Los Angeles, if the broken character of the hills should be found, upon careful examination, to admit of such side location as would reduce to that degree the natural grades varying between 90 and 171 feet per mile. Thence to the port of San Pedro the ground is favorable for location. The principal characteristics of this route, in comparison with others, are, probably, its passing through or near more numerous cultivable areas, its more abundant natural supply of water as far west as the Colorado, and the greater frequency and extent of forest growth on the route between the Rio Grande and the Colorado. These two latter characteristics entail a third, however, of an unfavorable nature—the large sum of ascents and descents. Near the meridian of 99° the change from fertile land to uncultivable is complete, excepting in the river bottoms, which are more or less fertile. Some portions of the upper valley of the Canadian, the upper valley of the Pecos, the valleys of the Rio Grande, Zuiii, Colorado Chiquito, San Francisco, Colorado of the West, and its tributaries, possess a fertile soil, requiring generally irrigation to make it productive. That portion of the southwest corner of the Great Basin traversed by this route, and over which the explorations of Lieut. Williamson also extended, is well constituted for fertility, its barrenness resulting from the absence of rain. Generally the uncultivable plains have an abundance of nutritious grass, though there are extensive tracts where little or none is found. The route may be considered sufficiently well supplied with good building-stone, since sand- stones suitable for the bridge-building required are reported to exist in the generally soft trias formation, extending from Delaware mountain, on the Canadian, to the Rocky mountains, a distance of 600 miles. Forest growth, furnishing timber of size suitable for ties and lumber for railroad uses, is found in the following localities: continuously on the route east of longitude 97°; in or near the Pecos valley; in the Rocky mountains and Sierra Madre; in the Mogollon mountains, (south of the route,) in which the Colorado Chiquito and some of its tributaries rise; on the slopes of the San Francisco mountain; and continuously, with short intervals, for more than 120 miles; and on the Sierra Nevada. The distances apart of these points of supply are respectively 540 miles, 100 miles, 150 miles; from the Sierra Madre to San Francisco mountain, 250 miles; then for a space of about 120 miles the supply may be considered continuous; thence to the Sierra Nevada, 420 miles. If the road be built from the two termini, the greatest spaces over which ties, lumber, &c., must be brought by it are 400 and 500 miles. The route, therefore, in comparison with others, is favorably circumstanced in this respect. The same localities will supply fuel; and, in addition, the coal-fields of Delaware mountain will furnish the eastern portion of the route where wood cannot be economically used. It is reported that coal exists in severa! localities in the Rocky mountains, both east and west of the Rio Grande, near this route, but there is no positive and reliable information that it has been found in sufficient quantities for profitable mining. The route for 540 miles east of the Sierra Nevada must receive its fuel from the ports of the Pacific. Over portions of this route, as upon all others, no fuel whatever, not even sufficient for working parties, will be found. The greatest distance over which this total absence of fuel exists, is between the Colorado and Mohave rivers, 115 miles. 22 ROUTE NEAR THE THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL. The exact distances over which water is not found at certain seasons are not stated. Between the 100th meridian and the Pacific there are spaces destitute of it, where, from the known character of the geological structure, there is no doubt that sufficient supplies can be obtained either by deep common wells, artesian wells, or reservoirs. These more abundant supplies of timber and water, west of the Rio Grande, are attained at the expense of great elevation and somewhat rugged ground. The Galisteo Pass in the Rocky mountains, and the passes in the Sierra Madre, being wide openings, or valleys, rather than mountain passes, no difficulty need be apprehended from snow, even if it fell to greater depths than those known; over the remainder of the route no difficulty from this cause is to be met with. The sum of the ascents from San Pedro to Fort Smith is 24,641 feet; of descents, 21,171 feet; equivalent, in the cost of working the road, to an increased horizontal distance of 924.5, - which added to the length of the line of location, 1,892 miles, gives for length of equated dis- tance 2,816 miles. The general features of the country indicated lines for examination at more than one point, which will probably greatly improve the route by reducing the ascents and, shortening distances. The party was, however, unable to examine them. The heaviest grades that will probably be required on the route from Fort Smith to San Pedro, do not equal those in use on the Baltimore and Ohio railroad. The description of the topographical features of the route is not sufficiently minute to enable one to form a satisfactory opinion of the difficulties of ground to be encountered, and, con- sequently, of the probable cost of the formation of the road-bed. Lieut. Whipple assimilates the several portions of the route to roads already built, possessing, as nearly as possible, similar features and difficulties. Four hundred and eighty (480) miles of the route are assimilated to the Hudson River rail- road, 151 miles to the Worcester and Albany railroad, (Western railroad,) and 374 miles to the Baltimore and Ohio railroad—making 1,005 miles assimilated to railroads among the most costly that have been constructed in the United States. The impression given by the description of the route in the report induces the opinion that the ground is more favorable than the comparison of Lieut. Whipple supposes. Assuming this assimilation to be correct, and bringing the estimate to a uniform standard of increased cost over eastern prices and of equipment, the estimated cost of the route from Fort Smith to San Pedro becomes $169,210,265. This estimate is believed to be, as above stated, in excess; but the data for reducing it have not yet been reported to the department. Should it be desired to reach San Francisco by the Tulares and San Joaquin valleys, the route should leave the Mohave valley some 30 miles before reaching the entrance to the Cajon Pass, 1,768 miles from Fort Smith—elevation about 2,555 feet—and proceed across the south- west corner of the Great Basin towards the Tah-ee- ranean Pass, reaching its entrance at an elevation of 3,300 feet, in a distance of about 80 miles. The route from this point is coincident with that Berenice ceened for the 32d parallel. The sum of ascents from San Francisco to Fort Smith, by the route from Mohave river to Tayee-chay-pah Pass, is 25,570 feet; of descents, 25,100 feet; the equivalent in miles of hori- zontal road is 963 miles, which added to the location-distance between those two points, 2,174 miles, gives for equated length of road 3,137 miles. The exploration of the route by Lieut. Whipple, and his report thereon, are entitled to the highest commendation, for the completion of the work in all its parts, the full and exact observations which he made for the determination of longitudes and latitudes, and the wide range of scientific research which he instituted into all the collateral branches connected with .the question which his exploration was designed to solve. ROUTE NEAR THE THIRTY-SECOND PARALLEL. 23 ROUTE NEAR THE THIRTY-SECOND PARALLEL OF NORTH LATITUDE. Among the considerations which determine the general position of the route near the 32d parallel, are the low elevation of the mountain passes in this latitude, and their favorable topographical features, as well as those of the table-lands, extending over more than 1,000 miles of the route; the favorable character of the surface generally, on the route, by which the most costly item of construction in railroads, the formation of the road-bed, is, in a great measure, avoided ; the shortness of the line, 1,600 miles, from the navigable waters of the Mis- sissippi to the Pacific, and the temperate climate on the elevated portions in this southern latitude. The explorations made upon this route are, from Preston, on Red river, to the Rio Grande, by Capt. John Pope, Topographical Engineers; from the Rio Grande, near Fort Fillmore, to the Pimas villages, on the Gila, by Lieut. John G. Parke, Topographical Engineers. From the Pimas villages to the mouth of the Gila, the reconnaissance in New Mexico and California of Major W. H. Emory, Topographical Engineers, in 1846, has been used; and from the mouth of the Gila to San Francisco, the exploration of Lieut. R. 8. Williamson, Topographical Engineers, has furnished the data. Fulton, on the Red river, about 150 miles from the Mississippi, may be considered the eastern terminus of the route, although the examination of Capt. Pope extends only to Pres- ton, 133 miles further west. A direct line from Fulton to the point on the eastern border of the Llano Estacado selected by Capt. Pope for crossing it, would give more favorable ground than that traversed by him between Preston and this point; the latter in a distance of 352 miles gives generally easy grades and cheap construction through a country alternately wooded and open, abundantly supplied with water and fuel, and with forest growth suitable for ties and lumber for two-thirds of the length. From Fulton to the eastern border of the Llano Esta- cado is 485 miles, 370 of which are wooded. The exploration of Capt. Pope comprised three distinct belts of country, the first of which has been just described above. The second is the Llano Estacado, whose mean elevation is 4,500 feet, the smooth surface of which along the route proposed, 125 miles from the eastern border to the Pecos river, presents in this respect great facilities for the construction of a railroad. It is, however, at certain seasons of the year destitute of water, is scantily supplied with grass, and not a single tree is to be seen upon it. Its geological formation is such as to render the success of obtaining water by artesian wells, at moderate depths, highly probable. During, and for some time subsequent to the rainy season, there are here, as on most other arid plains, numerous ponds, the contents of which might be collected in reservoirs; but the distance from the Colorado Springs to the Pecos, 125 miles, is not so great as to form a serious obstacle to the working of a railroad. Between the Pecos and the Rio Grande, 163 miles, three mountain chains rise from the table-lands, the Guadalupe, Hueco, and Organ mountains. The Guadalupe mountain is crossed without a tunnel, elevation of summit 5,717 feet, and with a grade of 108 feet to the mile for 22 miles. A high viaduct and heavy cutting and filling for three miles near the summit, form the costly and difficult part of the pass. The Waco Pass is still more favora- ble, the greatest grade being about 80 feet to the mile; the elevation of the summit, 4,812 feet. The Organ mountain is turned just before reaching the Rio Grande at Molino and El Paso. A peculiarity of the mountains in the western part of the continent, in this and other lati- tudes, is, that they have no intervening deep secondary valleys between the main chain and the plains. Over the usually uniform and smooth surface of these last, the general elevation of which, between the Pecos and the Rio Grande, is from 4,000 to 4,500 feet, the valley of the Rio Grande is attained near Molino, at an elevation of 3,830 feet, and at a distance of 787 miles from Fulton. 24 ROUTE NEAR THE THIRTY-SECOND PARALLEL. The region between the Rio Grande and the Pimas villages on the Gila, just above which point the latter leaves the mountain region, may be described as a great plain, interrupted irregularly and confusedly by bare, rugged, abrupt, isolated mountains or short ranges, around or through the passes in which a railroad may be constructed with quite practicable grades. The mean elevation of this plain, or series of basins into which the ridges divide it, is about 4,100 feet; the mean elevation of the summits of the passes through the ridges is 4,700 feet, the highest, through the Chiricahui range, being 5,180 feet. Except through the passes, the surface is so smooth as to require but little preparation to receive the superstructure of a rail- road; and even in the two most difficult of the passes, the natural slope of the ground may be used for a railroad until the construction of the road reduces the cost of materials and supplies to the lowest rates. In one of these two passes (the Chiricahui) the steepest natural slope is 194 feet per mile for 2} miles. In the second pass the steepest natural slope is 240 feet per mile for three-fourths of a mile. Both these grades are within the power of a thirty-ton engine, carrying 200 passengers and baggage. In one case deep cutting in rock, or a tunnel near the surface, at the summit, with heavy side cutting and high embankments for short distances; and, in the other, a short cut of 60 feet, probably through rock, are proposed by Lieut. Parke, to attain grades of 46 feet and 90 feet per mile, or less by increasing distance. The great difficulty experienced in crossing this district is in the long distances over which no water is found at certain seasons. The survey by Lieut. Parke was made during the dryest season of the year, and, irrespective of the springs found at intermediate points, the whole distance between the two rivers, Rio Grande and Gila, may be divided into five spaces, varying from 80 to 53 miles in length, at the termination of which large permanent supplies of water are found at the most unfavorable season of the year. These spaces and points are— Kromithe Rio'Grande to the Rio Mimbres:...:c-cccccesssssceee sneak aanctinanicenenctnteie aetebienttos 71 miles. From the Rio Mimbres to the stream of the Valle de Sauz................0seceseeeeseeeeeees 72 es Hromithe Valledewauz-to the San Pedrotsceet es peeeceseens eae etaes ecm sepecesseeeciess decid 800 He Hromithe SaniPedrorto "Lnezomaisach.cs.sedecwe sce eceebocten derteanen cine totem tesoe ste Ge wcbuteG: onebre bot ak from’ /Tuezonmtoythe Gila: {82.0 0c ts ceeseee chmeeeree cnn cee ne chow cme eee eee aatbaceecensmmcen’s [ene (Ge Not counting the stream of the Valle de Sauz, the distance from the Rio Mimbres to the San Pedro is 152 miles; which distance is not so great that railroad trains could not cross it without water, special arrangements having been made for the purpose. But this is the worst aspect of the case. At other seasons the supply of water is more abundant, and lakes and ponds are formed upon the plains, which may be drained into tanks; and the geological formation is such as to indicate the existence of sufficient supplies of water beneath the surface, which may be brought to it by artesian wells. The line proposed by Lieut. Parke leaves the Rio Grande near Fort Fillmore, 35 miles from Molino, between which points the river, where confined to one channel, is about 300 yards wide, crosses the district just described, and enters the valley of the Gila near the Pimas villages, the elevation above the sea being 1,365 feet. The route then follows this river to its junction with the Colorado, a distance of 223 miles, with a general slope of 5.6 feet per mile. The Gila, in this distance, flows through a plain with occasional mountains, ridges, and peaks; its valley is highly favorable to cheap construction from its generally smooth surface, and from not being liable to freshets. From the point now attained, the nearest port in our territory is San Diego, but the passes of the intervening Coast range are very difficult, if not impracticable, and the route is forced northward to the San Gorgonio Pass, which is much the most favorable of the passes in the Coast range explored by Lieut. Williamson for this route. It is an open valley, from two to five miles wide, the surface smooth and unbroken, affording, in its form and inclination, every facility to the building of a railroad. The entrance of this pass is 133 miles from the mouth ROUTE NEAR THE THIRTY-SECOND PARALLEL. 25 of the Gila, in a straight line over the Colorado desert, a smooth and nearly horizontal plain, requiring but little preparation for the superstructure of a railroad. Thirty-five miles of this is a gravel plain; the remainder is alluvial soil, which only needs irrigation to be highly productive. On this latter soil, water is found at a depth of 30 feet. The steepest natural slope, in ascending to the summit of this valley pass, (elevation 2,808 feet,) is 132 feet per mile for two miles. San Diego and San Pedro can be reached by lines of about equal length from the San Gorgonio Pass. To the former, the first section of the route to San Luis Rey (about 75 miles long) would pass through a country generally favorable to the construction of a railroad, being a plain with numerous hills from 500 to 1,000 feet high, irregularly distributed on its surface, between and around which a road may be carried with favorable grades. Between San Luis Rey and San Diego, however, about 40 or 45 miles, the coast is cut into numerous deep intricate gullies by the drainage of the plain. To San Pedro, about 125 miles, the route lies almost wholly over the same description of ground as that constituting the first section of the San Diego route, and avoids the obstacles presented by the second. It is, therefore, assumed that the terminus of this route should be at San Pedro, the point which it has now reached. It may, however, be proper to remark that San Pedro is an open roadstead, and would require the construction of a breakwater to constitute it a safe harbor. From the report of Capt. Pope, it would appear that the belt of fertile land which lies on the west side of the Mississippi throughout its length, extends on this route nearly to the headwaters of the Colorado of Texas, in about longitude 102°—that is, about three degrees further west than on the more northern routes. The evidence adduced in support of this opinion is not, however, conclusive; and, until it is rendered more complete, the fertile soil must be considered in this, as in other latitudes, to terminate about the 99th meridian. Thence to the Pacific slopes the route is over uncultivable soil, though generally grassed, the exceptions being, as on the route of the 35th parallel, in aan of the valleys of the Pecos, Rio Grande, Gila, and Colorado of the West. The table-lands and mountain slopes are usually well covered with grama-grass, and in New Mexico have supported immense herds of cattle. There are excep- tions to this, however, on the greater portion of the Llano Estacado, on portions of the plains between the Rio Grande and the Gila; and (comprised in that space) from Tuczon to the Gila, 80 miles, there is no grass on the route travelled, nor is it to be found on the Lower Gila valley; occasional patches of bunch-grass only being found on the plain, and a species of grama-grass sometimes upon the mountain sides. No grass is found on the Colorado desert, 135 miles along the line of location. = The length of the route through this generally uncultivable soil is 1,210 miles. Upon descending from the summit of the San Gorgonio Pass, on the route to San Pedro, the soil is fertile, and either well watered or can be irrigated. The climate throughout the route is salubrious, the heat due its southern latitude being moderated by the elevation of the table-lands. On the Colorado desert it is torrid, but not unhealthy, and much of the country west of the Sierra Nevada and Coast range is celebrated for health and agreeableness. The principal characteristic of this route is the great extent of high, arid, smooth, and nearly horizontal table-lands which it traverses, reaching an elevation of 4,000 feet upon the dividing ridge between the Brazos and Colorado rivers of Texas, near which elevation it continues until it descends from the pass of the Sierra de Santa Catarina to the Gila river, a space of nearly 600 miles. The elevation at the summit of the Llano Estacado is 4,700 feet, and in the passes of the Guadalupe and Hueco mountains, east of the Rio Grande, 5,700 and 4,800 feet, respectively. Between the Rio Grande and the Gila, the greatest elevation, which is twice attained, is 5,200 feet; the mean elevation, before the descent to the Gila is com- -menced, being 4,100 feet. From the eastern edge of the Llano Estacado to the pass of San ; 4a 26 ROUTE NEAR THE THIRTY-SECOND PARALLEL. Gorgonio, 1,052 miles, the route crosses three rivers, the Pecos, the Rio Grande, and the Great Colorado of the West. The peculiar features of the arid region over which the route lies from the eastern edge of the Llano Estacado to the summit of the San Gorgonio Pass, prove, when closely examined, to be most favorable to the construction of a railroad, since they obviate to a great degree the necessity of the most costly item of railroad construction, the prepara- tion of the road-bed for the superstructure; this preparation, with few and limited excep- tions, throughout a distance of about 1,000 miles, having been already made by nature. This item amounts to from one-half to three-fourths of the whole cost of a railroad. Draining and ballasting are also dispensed with at the same time. Over the remaining portions of the route, the ground is generally favorable to the construction of the road-bed. The mountain passes are, of their kind, highly favorable, those west of the Rio Grande requiring no difficult engineering for location through them, and but little rock excavation or expensive embankment and side- cutting. The Guadalupe and Hueco Passes are more difficult. The most unfavorable supposition for supplies of ties and lumber for the construction of that portion of the route between the eastern limit of the Llano Estacado and the summit of the San Gorgonio Pass, 1,052 miles, is that they are to come from either end of the road, from 300 miles east of the Llano Estacado, and from the port of San Pedro on the Pacific, 1,400 miles apart. It is supposed that the road is to be built from both ends, in sections not greater than 50 miles each, and made to aid in building itself, transporting its own material, &c., so far as the proper adjustment of economy of time and means will admit; this would bring the mean cost of lumber over this distance of 1,052 miles to $524 per 1,000 feet, and the mean cost of ties to $1,760 per mile. The worst case having been examined, it remains to be said that ties and lumber can be obtained on and near this portion of the route from the Guadalupe and Hueco mountains, from the headwaters of the Rio Mimbres, from the Pinal Lleno, from the Salinas river (tribu- tary of the Gila) and headwaters of the San Francisco, and from the San Bernardino mount- ains of the Coast range; which sources of supply, the length apart of the most distant being 500 miles, may be found to materially obviate the necessity of transporting lumber from the two ends of the road. The coal of the Brazos and that from Puget sound may be used over the 1,200 miles from San Pedro, to within 200 miles of the Brazos, at a mean cost per ton of $16. The portions of the route where unusual means must be resorted to for supplies of water, have already been pointed out. Under the most unfavorable suppositions, the cost per mile, over these portions, of obtaining water by artesian wells, will not probably exceed $1,000, an expenditure greatly overbalanced by the saving in road-bed formation, from the regu- larity and smoothness of surface of the arid regions. The mode and probable cost of obtaining water at short distances in these dry regions, by artesian wells, reservoirs, and deep common wells, are discussed in the accompanying detailed reports. The practicability of the method by artesian wells is now being sub- jected to trials. If these should fail, of which, however, in the Llano Estacado, there is little probability, the permanent streams and large springs are sufficiently near for the purposes of a railroad ; and since its construction over these districts will require small working parties, the expense of supplying them with water and fuel, when necessary, will not largely increase the cost of con- struction. It is probable that the region between the Rio Grande and the Gila, 350 miles by the route explored, is more arid than corresponding regions on the more northern routes, but the construction of works of an unusual kind on railroads for supplies of water, are as essential on all these routes as upon that now under consideration. ROUTE NEAR THE THIRTY-SECOND PARALLEL. 27 The length of this route from Fulton to San Pedro is.......csseeseereeeneeeeeeeesenerees 1,618 miles. Mhe sum Of the ascents and GesceMmts........... cree cece secicraieojnesase scores aseseceessnescs 32,784 feet ; To overcome which is equivalent, in the cost of working the road, to traversing a horizontal distance of 621 miles; and the equated length of the road is......... 2,239 miles. BEM SCs SiUET) Ad CSL OO Hams ots te he crate ors Te me leo etc atcte ers eval in]e ciebloira es oiis/ms ta sispeleicigie delas'ate $68,970,000 EXTENSION OF THE ROUTE OF THE THIRTY-SECOND PARALLEL TO SAN FRANCISCO. For a connexion with the Bay of San Francisco, the most direct route from the San Gor- gonio Pass would be through one of the passes leading irom the plain of Los Angeles to the valley of Salinas river. The practicability of these passes is yet to be determined, and an exploration is now being made for this purpose. With the information now possessed, the Bay of San Francisco must be reached by crossing the Coast range to the Great Basin, passing over its southwestern extremity, then crossing the Sierra Nevada and descending to the Tulares valley. The best pass by which to reach the Great Basin is the ‘‘ New Pass,’’ made known by Lieut. Williamson’s explorations. Descending from the summit of the San Gorgonio Pass to the town of San Bernardino, 24 or 25 miles distant, with natural slopes less than 80 feet per mile, excepting for 1.3 mile, where the slope is 127 feet per mile, the route to the Mission and Low Pass of San Fernando (about 100 miles from the summit of San Gorgonio) is over a country giving gently undulating grades, and in other respects favorable to construction, in fertile soil, building-stone, water, and fuel. The San Fernando Pass is about eight miles through. Its summit has an elevation of 1,949 feet. A tunnel is required one-third of a mile long, through soft sandstone, 203 feet below the summit. An ascent of 620 feet is made on the south side, with grades of 155 feet per mile for four miles along the natural slopes, which cannot be reduced by side location without great expense, and a descent of four miles of 115 feet per mile, with heavy side-cutting in earth on the north side. The ascent to the New Pass in the valley of Santa Clara is now begun, and with a cut of 50 feet for a short distance at the summit in drift, the summit is attained in 29 miles over natural slopes without side location, and with grades varying from 55 to 105 feet per mile. For the space of one mile on the ascent, the mountains close in precipitously, and the streams wind abruptly ; and it may be necessary here to cut two or perhaps three short tunnels, from 100 to 300 feet long, through slaty granite. The elevation of the summit is 3,164 feet. Descending to the Great Basin, cutting and filling will be required for two or three miles to adjust the natural slope to the grade west of the summit. After that, and until descending into the Tulares valley by the Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass, a distance of about 70 miles, the ground will require little preparation for the superstructure. The lowest level descended to in the Great Basin is about 2,900 feet. The Tah-ce-chay-pah Pass, first explored throughout by Lieut. R. 8. Williamson, is the most favorable in this part of the Sierra Nevada. Its summit is a nearly horizontal prairie for 7 miles. The elevation of its entrance from the Great Basin is 3,300 feet, from which the natural slope ascends at the rate of 22 feet to the mile for 12 miles, then at 80 feet per mile for 9 miles, to the prairie summit. The descent to the Tulares valley is 15} miles by the natural slopes, which vary from 153 to 192 feet per mile, a side location in earth-cutting giving an average grade of 144 feet per mile for 17 miles, which may be reduced still further by an extension to 21 miles—the Tulares valley being entered at an elevation of 1,489 feet. There are two intervals of 13 and 17 miles in the Great Basin where there is no water. Artesian wells here, as in the similar formations between the Rio Grande and the Gila, will probably reach supplies at moderate depths. Deep common wells may be successfully resorted to. 28 ROUTE NEAR THE THIRTY-SECOND PARALLEL. The natural slopes of the three passes just considered are within the power of a 30-ton engine witha load of 200 passengers, each with 100 pounds of baggage. Supposing 20-ton engines used, and that they carried the maximum loads adapted to the other portions of the road, where the greatest grades are 40 feet to the mile, it would be necessary to divide this load into three parts to pass a grade of 150 feet per mile; and the grades being brought to that, its disadvantage consists in the expense of two additional engines worked through the passes. From the head of the Tulares valley, the navigable waters of the Bay of San Francisco may be reached in several ways. The eastern side of the Tulares and San Joaquin valleys is intersected by numerous streams from the Sierra Nevada. The western is bounded by the Coast chain, and has few streams. That part of the Tulares valley between Kern and San Joaquin rivers, a space of 150 miles, having a soft alluvial soil, is, at certain seasons, miry; a road, therefore, extending through it, should keep near the foot-slopes of the mountains. From the Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass to the best point of crossing Kern river, 214 miles, the route passes over a dry, dusty plain, destitute of water and fuel, the soil of which is not well constituted for fertility. From the crossing of Kern river to the second crossing of the San Joaquin, near Grayson’s, the numerous river-beds or bottoms should be crossed on piles, the spaces varying from 50 to 300 feet—the greatest width to be spanned not exceeding 100 feet. From Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass to the Straits of Martinez, the location distance would be 288 miles. The most direct route to San Francisco from the Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass will be found through one of the passes known to exist inthe mountain range separating the Tulares and San Joaquin valleys from those of the Salinas and San José rivers. The distance through it is about 10 miles; the elevation of the passes about 600 feet. From Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass the route should cross to the western side of the Tulares valley, around the head of the lakes, and enter the Salinas valley as soon as practicable. The soil of the Tulares valley, north of Kern river, and of the San Joaquin valley, is well constituted for fertility, and needs merely the proper amount of water to be highly productive. Sufficient water and fuel for working parties can be found at convenient distances on this section, (excepting where it crosses the Great Basin, and approaching Kern river; the amount of deficiency on these portions having been already given.) Lumber and good building-stone are found at various points in the mountains, accessible from their foot-slopes. For fuel for locomotives, the coal of Puget sound and Vancouver’s island must probably be depended upon. The topographical features of this extension of the route are, with the exception of the mount- ains, favorable to cheap construction. The mountain passes are likewise of a favorable character, their only objectionable feature being their high grades. The nature and extent of this objection has been already stated, and, it is seen, 1s not serious. From Fulton to San Francisco the distance is 2,039 miles; the sum of the ascents and descents 42,008 feet, which is equivalent to 795 miles; and the equated length of the road is 2,834 miles; the estimated cost is $93,120,000. To Lieut. Williamson, assisted by Lieut. Parke, was intrusted the survey of a route from the Bay of San Francisco to the junction of the Gila and Colorado rivers, connecting with the ports of San Pedro and San Diego on the one side, and on the other with the most practicable mountain passes. His work has been thoroughly and handsomely executed, presenting much new and valuable information of the mountain passes on the southern portion of the Sierra Nevada and Coast range. The geological examination, made under his orders, is highly creditable and instructive. The examination of the middle section of the route of the 32d parallel, by Lieut. Parke, was very thorough, and highly creditable, though executed with small means; and his report very satisfactorily exhibits the character and essential features of the country over which he passed. The scientific labors of the boundary survey, which had been previously performed in CONCLUSION. 29 this region, rendered it unnecessary to do more than make what may be strictly called a railroad exploration. The examination of the eastern portion by Capt. Pope, assisted by Lieut. Garrard, of the dragoons, was made under the most disadvantageous circumstances, the party having been organized at a remote point, where neither instruments, nor assistants specially instructed in the scientific branches connected with the survey, could be procured. It was, however, creditably performed, and satisfactorily exhibits the topography and general character of the country along the line surveyed. , CONCLUSION. To aid in a comparison of the several routes, reference is made to a table prepared by Capt. A. A. Humphreys, and hereto appended. With regard to the estimates of cost, although lelieved to be as accurate as can be made under present circumstances, they are to be considered as intended not so much to show the absolute sums of money which would build the several roads, as to represent the relative quantities of materials and labor required for the purpose. If now tested in the actual con- struction of any one of the roads, they will doubtless be found to contain many errors; but as the same data have been assumed on all the routes, the same amount of error will probably be found in each, and the actual expense will thus preserve the same proportion. With regard to the equated lengths of the seycral roads, or, in other words, the influence of ascents and descents upon the expense of working, it is proper to direct attention to the remarks of the engineer, appended to the tables, in which he states that, on all the routes, the amount reported will be subject to increase when the minor undulations of the ground shall be measured ; and this increase will be greatest on those routes and in those portions where the features of the country are less regular—that is, where there are most of such minor undula- tions to be measured. The equated distances also affect the cost of working a road only under certain circumstances, which may or may not exist on the contemplated route. A comparison of the results stated above, and of those exhibited in the tables referred to, conclusively shows that the route of the 32d parallel is, of those surveyed, ‘‘the most prac- ticable and economical route for a railroad from the Mississippi river to the Pacific ocean.’’ This is the shortest route; and not only is its estimated cost less by a third than that of any other of the lines, but the character of the work required is such that it could be executed in a vastly shorter period. It is obvious that a road on any of these routes, with the exception perhaps of the 47th parallel, must be built continuously from the two extremities, and an obstacle that arrests its progress at any point defers the commencement of all the work in advance. The tunnels and much of the other work on the more northerly routes in the most desolate regions are such as could not be commenced until a road was constructed up to those points, and would then require a long period for their completion. On the southernmost route, on the contrary, the progress of the work will be regulated chiefly by the speed with which cross-ties and rails can be delivered and laid, the nature of the country being such that throughout the whole line the road-bed can easily be prepared in advance of the superstructure. The few difficult points, such as the Pass of the Guadalupe and Hueco mountains, and the passes between the Rio Grande and Gila, would delay the work but an inconsiderable period. This peculiarity of the ground presents another advantage in the fact that temporary tracks could be laid upon the natural surface of the earth to almost any extent, to serve for the trans- portation ot materials and supplies. ¥ The climate on this route is such as to cause less interruption to the work than on any other route. Not only is this the shortest and least costly route to the Pacific, but it is the shortest and cheapest route to San Francisco, the greatest commercial city on our western coast: while the aggregate length of railroad lines connecting it at its eastern terminus with the Atlantic 30 CONCLUSION. and Gulf seaports is less than the aggregate connexion with any other route, as will be seen by reference to the appended table B. With regard to the circumstances which affect the cost of working and maintaining the road, they are more favorable than on any other route. In this dry climate the decay of cross-ties and other timber would be very slow, and the absence of severe frost would have a most important influence upon the permanence of the road-bed, and heavier grades could be adopted than in a climate where ice and snow prevail. The snows on all the other routes, except that of the 35th parallel, could not fail at certain seasons to suspend the working of the road, for on all, such snows are known to have fallen as would interpose an effectual barrier to the passage of trains. Such an occurrence in this desolate region would be attended with more serious consequences than in inhabited districts. In only one important respect is this route supposed to be less favorable than some of the others, and that is, in the supply of fuel. The difference, however, in favor of the others is not great, unless the existence of coal at certain points along those routes where it is indicated should be verified by further examination. The cost of fuel is about one-fifth of the whole expense of maintaining and working a railroad. The grades of the several routes, and other similar information, will be found upon the sheets of profiles compiled in the office. In the determination of the explorations proper to be made—in the examination of the reports of the suveying parties, the preparation of the profiles, and of a general map to exhibit, in their geographical relation to each, all the routes of which an instrumental examination had been made—I am greatly indebted to the assistance which has been rendered by the officers of the corps of topographical engineers employed in the office established here in connexion with the explorations directed by the act; and I will here especially acknowledge my obliga- tions to Major W. H. Emory, whose extensive knowledge of the western regions of our country, no small part of which he had actually explored, and whose sound judgment in all things con- nected with topographical reconnaissances and field operations, gave me important aid in the or- ganization of the work and the subsequent office examinations necessary to systematize its results. When, in August, 1854, Major Emory’s duties as commissioner to run the boundary- line between Mexico and the United States separated him from further connexion with these explorations, he was succeeded by Capt. A. A. Humphreys, whose high scientific attainments and power of exact analysis had been manifested in several important positions which he had held, and are further shown in the able and comprehensive examination, herewith sub- mitted, of the reports of the several parties of exploration. Lieut. G. K. Warren, first under Major Emory, and subsequently under Captain Humphreys, has been specially intrusted with the preparation of the material and the construction of the general map, together with the compilation of profiles of all the routes which had been instru- mentally surveyed, and the collection of all general information which would aid in the determination of the question before the department. In these duties he has recently had the zealous and efficient aid of Lieut. H. L. Abbott. These laborious and important duties have been performed by the officers above named with the most commendable diligence and intelligence, and much of whatever success belongs to the preparation and presentation of the matter collected is due to these ofticers. Capt. McClellan, of the corps of enginers, after the completion of his field operations, was directed to visit various railroads, and to collect information of facts established in the con- struction and working of existing roads, to serve as data in determining the practicability of constructing and working roads over the several routes explored. The results of his inquiries will be found in a very valuable memoir herewith submitted. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, JEFEF’N DAVIS, Secretary of War. Hon. Linn Boyp, Speaker of the House of Representatives. TABLE OF LENGTHS, ETO. 31 A. Table showing the lengths, sums of ascents and descents, equated lengths, cost, &e., of the several routes explored for a railroad from the Mississippi to the Pacific. (For the grades, see the profiles accompanying the report.) Sterile region. : J a S 2 Me = “ oO =D = oe z 5 Sirois 2 58 3 =! a La q =] Ssiho = Ss cA =z 2 = esi-e 3 = = 5 5 = \ Se |E= = o a 2 = len =e lsolea a . = i Dike o = ../2 S ESiz5 S ol) Sh alse = ESlE 2 |Sa|58 ra Sere ee Slee 5S [else 85 = a = sm ° @}2 s jegle2 = Sb Se a ma 3 SVE = jasiad | ws €|/¢| 8 |se 3 |zelé Peleelszlsleleleleleissls= Se ers & SE = 35/7 s\e=|8 18 (SSIS (SS 2 | 2 2 = be poe ee eeissltsolale|eolol|alale| EN ees B15 ea o Im SESsleSls ls lslclsls isle] & 5 $ P § Si ols Ao VS sha halsl els slsia = g coe en S a fe Sse st] ee |] se lelalalalajal se a 3 = | = a | PLS" 1S 1s |o lelelelelele| = 3 = & =| § 5 : te : -S1S/S l/eisisisieis) & 2 a =] 5) So Ss ° Ss ° Ss1eare isis /sle isis) 2 a i=} n 4 S) Zz 12 2 |2 ala l|rldiloiK je | 2 Miles.| Miles.| Feet. | Miles. Feet. Route near 47th and 49th | 1,445] 1,864/18, 100) 2,207/*#130,781,000| 374! 1,490} || 1,000) 470} 580) 720) 130) 97) 28)...|... .| 6,044) Tunnel at ele- purallels, from St. Paul van of 5,219 to Vancouver. feet. Extension thence to Seattle|...... 161] 1,000} 180) *10,090,000} 161],... ...] ....... 161 Route nearthe 41st and 42d | 1,410] 2, 032/29, 120) 2,583! 116,095,000) 632} 1,400) |j 1,100} 180) 170) 210) 160/580/2=5/270) 107/20). .| 8,373) parallels, via South Pass trom Council Bluffs to Benicia. y Route near the 38th and| 1,740) 2,080/49, 986] 3,125\Cost so great) 620) 1,460} || 1,100) 340) 276) 165) 348)466)170) 60/155,80/2010, 032) Tunnel at ele- 39th parallels,from West- that the road vat'n of 9,540 port to San Francisco by is impracti- feet. the Coo-che-to-pa and cable. Tah-ee-chay-pah Passes. The same, from Westport} 1,740) 2,290|56,514] 3,360)..,..do.....| 670) 1,620] 1,100) 275) 308) 190} 143)725)284)110/155 80 20:10, 032) Tunnel at ele- to San Francisco by the vat?n of 9,540 Coo-che-to-pa and Ma- feet. delin Passes. Route near the 35th paral-| 1,360) 1,892/48, 819] 2,816) + 169,210,265| 416] 1,476} 2,300) 305) 347) 260) 185/160)305/235) 95 ..)..| 7,472 jel, from Fort Smith to San Pedro. Branch road to San Fran-}......] 406] 7,500) 506) 19,935,000) 322) 84)........| 290] 10) 72) 35) ~ e1seo, from the Mohave river. Route near the 32d paral-| 1,400] 1,618|32,784] 2,239] 68,970,000] 408} 1,210) 2,300) 485) 300) 100) 170/503) 60}...)...)..)..| 5,717, Jel, from Fulton to San Pedro. Extensionto San Francisco}......| 440/10,150) 632) 25,100,000) 376; 70) ..00e20/9290) 50) 65) 35 REE EEE Eee *These are the estimates of the office, those of Gov. Stevens having been brought to the same standard of increased cost as the other routes, and his equipment reduced to that of the other routes. His estimates were $117,121,000 and $7,030,000. + Supposing the route to be a straight line, with uniform descent from the Un-kuk-oo-ap mountains (near Sevier river) to the entrance of the Tah-ee- chay-pah Pass, the most favorable supposition. < t This estimate for the route near the 35th parallel is thought to be largely in excess. || These sums do not include the areas of cultivable soil as far west as the Cascade and Sierra Nevada mountains, The sum of the minor undulations (not included in the sum of ascents and descents here given) will probably be greater for the route of the 47th parallel than for the other routes ; that for the route near the 32d parallel will probably be the least of all. With the amount of work estimated for the roads in this report, the equated lengths corresp nding to the sum of ascents and descents has but little practical value. With a full equipment and heavy freight business, the sum of ascents and descents becomes important. A comparison of the degree of curvature of the routes cannot be made. NOTE TO TABLE A. The sum of the ascents and descents given for the various routes, does not take into con- sideration those minor undulations which sometimes largely increase the aggregate. I think it probable that when detailed surveys are made, it will be found that this sum for the route near the 47th parallel will be more increased than those for the other routes, and that the sum for the route near the 32d parallel will be less increased than the others. The equated lengths corresponding to these sums, may give erroneous impressions. If the loads to be habitually carried over the roads are within the power of the engines over the greatest grades proposed, then the sums of ascents and descents really have little meaning or value. The wear and tear of rail and machinery, and consumption of fuel, would be some- what greater on the road having the largest sum; but the difference would not be worth taking into account, unless there was an equality in all other respects between the routes. If there are some grades so steep as to require the division of the loads habitually carried over other portions, the cost of the extra locomotives, and of working them over those portions, will show the extent of the disadvantage and yearly cost. 32 TABLE OF DISTANCES, ETC. So far as any estimate has been made by me of the amount of work to be done on the roads, these sums of ascents and descents have little practical value, since those portions of the routes have been indicated where it may be considered advisable to use steep natural slopes with extra engines, to expedite the completion of the road, and save expensive road-bed pre- paration. With a full equipment and heavy freight business, the sum of ascents and descents becomes important. The nature of the surveys does not admit of a comparison of the degree of curvature on the several routes. B. Distances of the eastern termini of the several Pacific railroad routes to the Mississippi river, Boston, New York, Charleston, and New Orleans, by railroads built, building, and projected, as measured on the “* Railroad Maps.”’ Miles. PENSt. eeaMleto DOStOne. ....ccecscccsoose sdede jag cbse oles baeseisascceuscietnees Caeser eee tere ceceaceeaae 1,316 COMNEW, VOT. 2. 0chsccheaele sass ocanismmancecemoeeeoabeeeseetcroae ste eaee ber aeroe eee Feeeeostiods 1,190 to Charleston. «scai iwcsco denser teneee cere eee een hone oe eestor osteo eee eeeee L193 to New, Orleans} obec eckceen. csp seca hen ean ctiec ste sideaes oNeetiested cuaeocanteessoreenee 1,198 FREER EO BUG, Gee nch onisbicnesessescestnaetteeitGetanen idee daceeshesecdh ce teneetaeameees 4,897 2. JOounel Biatiscto Rock Islands.( Miss: rivier)s. sits 5aas | & = - 2 S > Year. S I S SF ee . a 5 Pam ates = = E Sirs z a 5 = |) = > Eb = Sl 3 = = 2 = a C eo i tee ee = EI = 2 Sane 2 & = = = > 5 & | = < = 5 < n O71 32 =) n 7 < = > a | | | | — } (SS ee | 4.66 3.18 | 7.11 4.57 | 0.70 | 0.00 | 0.00 | 0.24 | 0.02 | 0.02 | 2.52 1.18 | 12.38 | 0.24 | 2.56 | 7.84 | 23.02 } | | LSS4wceceeceeees 2.90 | 2.10 | 8.00 | 3.07 | 2.40 | 0.00 | 0.00 | 0.00 | 0.00 | 2.26 | 0.87 |....... 13.47 | 0.00 | 3.13 | 6.18 | 22.78 | | Gy Mean......0+ | 3.78 | 2.64 | 7.55 | 3.82 1.55 | 0.00 | 0.00 | 0.12 | 0.01 1.14 1.69 1.18 | 12.92 | 0.12 | 2.84 | 7.60 | 23.48 | } Observations for December, 1854, have not yet been received. For the mean of the two years the rain for that month has been supposed to be the same as in 1853. Mean temperature of Fahrenheit from two years’ observations. ° ° | ° | ° December ........2+e00+ 47.0 WERT siete scaininiais'olotssist ste 53.74 | JUNC... .ceeeeeeeeeeees 75.30 September........00000. 71.84 JAaNuary .eceecsesceeees 44.25 Ma Paced COSCO AEE 60.02 July... ier 84.40 |} October ......... on 64.03 EDIUOLY. fe eieisisoicislesic cies 50.55 WLS riaeleetcatsaisratsinesieis 66.71 August 78.95 November 54.72 Winter .......... 47.2 | Spring secenee. om 60.16 | Summer......... 79.55 Autumn......s.e.. 63.53 Abundant supplies of water were found by Lieut. Beckwith on the mountains of the Basin. The season of the year when he crossed it, the spring, was the most favorable. In the dry season, the supply is, no doubt, much less abundant. SOIL, The only large body of cultivable soil found on this route west of the 99th meridian, is that occupied by the Mormons on the western foot-slopes of the Wahsatch mountains, forming the eastern border of the Great Basin. The following description of this fertile tract is taken from Lieut. Beckwith’s report upon the route near the 38th and 39th parallels of north latitude : ““The western range of the Wahsatch mountains, standing on the eastern border of the Great Basin, is continuous, extending north and south over five degrees of latitude, from the vicinity of Little Salt lake to north of Bear river, broken only by the passage of the Sevier, Timpanogos, Weber, and Bear rivers. Its altitude at 3,000 feet above the general level of the country is quite uniform ; but it occasionally falls down to 2,000, and at a few points rises to 4,000 and 4,500 feet. Its western slope is very steep—often inaccessible—presenting gen- erally a formidable barrier to the entrance of a railroad into the Basin from the east. Many small streams descend from it; and as far as its disintegrations have been deposited at its base upon the alkaline plains of the Basin, it forms a rich soil. This line of deposite is narrow, and not continuous, but varying in width, where it is found, from two or three miles to ten or twelve at a few points, as opposite Utah and Great Salt lakes, where it occupies the entire space from the mountain to the lake shores. It is to this narrow belt of land that the Mor- mon settlements are almost exclusively confined, the isolated settlements being upon similar deposites in small valleys at the base of other mountains, the small mountain streams, upon which these deposites are the richest, and chiefly exist, being used for irrigation. Respectable crops of wheat and oats are produced, and barley has been cultivated to, some extent; but corn does not flourish well. The grass of this district and of the higher mountain valleys is excellent; and potatoes and other roots are produced in abundance, and of a superior quality.’’ The area of this body of fertile soil, susceptible of irrigation by the construction of suitable works, is estimated by Lieutenant Beckwith at 1,108 square miles. ROUTE NEAR THE FORTY-FIRST AND FORTY-SECOND PARALLELS. 65 The areas of the different localities are estimated as follows: Square miles. Eastern shore of Great Salt lake, from Bear river to Great Salt Lake City........... 350 allevaor there Ondam peiver, os. caves sucs asec lisetses ©secics «as seieiias ee vleelaelaise s@iolageste alasieaa ales 374 Valley of Tuilla, west of Oquirrh mountains and east of Cedar mountains.............. 204 Piotalwoun Greaty salt lace) MnO pers, andes serie ch vesepiscascte-ciselgeisceiiduaiganasetiectias se seselyte se 928 Wipontihesborderstof Witahtlakees ae cstcwadsecieccces ss losses este sessile scmeceeiesiess eeeerunedas 180 MING tenl (GSMA OVE) ems caeisclaceeiossies nalts snesia-teis laluaidals selasaieaiapsinae ee seisrisisesseesle we eelsslnessilgaseciits 1,108 About one-tenth of this area is susceptible of irrigation without the construction of costly works, and is tilled by the Mormons, 27,000 in number, who eagerly seek for, and occupy, small tracts of cultivable soil, if sufficiently large to support a few families, even though at great distances from the main settlement. On this route, as on others, from the 98° or 99° meridian westward to the western slopes of the Sierra Nevada, a distance of about 1,400 miles, the soil is generally uncultivable, the excep- tion being the comparatively limited area of the Mormon settlement, and an occasional river- bottom and mountain-valley of small extent. East of the Rocky mountains the plains are of the same character as those described for the route of the 38th and 39th parallels, uncultivable west of the 99th meridian. West of the first chain of these mountains the plains are covered with artemisia, rarely furnishing any grazing, except along the water-courses. The mountains, however, are generally covered, to a greater or less extent, with grass—the soil of those north, south, and west of the route between Fort Bridger and the headwaters of the Timpanogos river being of superior quality. The absence of the geological report prevents my referring to the geological structure, which together with the climatological conditions, serve to corroborate or disprove opinions formed on appearances of sterility or fertility. The indications given of the character of both, however, from the report, are sufficient to establish the general correctness of the opinions expressed. ESTIMATE OF PROBABLE COST. This estimate is made to show the probable relative cost of this route, as compared with others. That portion of it for the difficult and costly section of the Sacramento river, 136 miles in length, and for the cafion on the Timpanogos river, I have less confidence in than in the esti- mates generally. The estimate includes an equipment suitable for the first working of the road, about one-fifth that requisite for the development of its full power. From Council Bluffs to the first gorge of the Black Hills, 520 miles, 25 per cent. being added to cost at eastern prices for one-half the distance, $35,000 POG CNEL e acu aevenvoscnce GENERAL ADVANTAGES OF THE ROUTE. The mineral wealth of the countries near the 32d parallel has been indicated by others, and needs no other mention. The proposed road passes near the northern borders of the Mexican States, or departments of Chihuabua and Sonora. They extend northward from latitude 27° or 28° to our boundary. The surface is generally table-lands, affording good grazing; the climate is agreeable. The svil of the river valleys is fertile, capable of producing, when irrigated, wheat, cotton, &c. Their wealth is principally in cattle farms and mines of gold and silver. The area is 280,000 square miles. The population exceeds 300,000. Although this route passes near the frontier of Mexico, yet it is not liable to objection from this circumstance, since we control the frontier, and the construction of the road would probably break the power of the Indian tribes. ' It passes through or near territories having already large populations; that of New Mexico, according to the report of Captain Pope, being 50,000; and that of Chihuahua and Sonora, as above stated, being more than 300,000. The chief advantage of this route is, that for the space of 1,100 or 1,200 miles, the usual item of great expense in railroads is in a great measure avoided, there being no necessity to prepare an expensive road-bed except in a few instances in the passage of the mountain chains. Drain- ing and ballasting are also dispensed with at the same time. Over the remaining portions of the route—418 miles if to San Pedro, and 839 miles if to San Francisco—the ground is generally favorable to the construction of the road-bed. The mountain passes of the route are generally favorable; those west of the Rio Grande requiring no difficult engineering for location through them, and but little rock excavation or expensive embankment and side cutting. ‘The Guadalupe and Hueco passes are more difficult. The short tunnel on the San Fernando Pass, and those that may be needed in the New Pass, will not be found difficult in their execution. The climate throughout the route is salubrious, the heat due its southern latitude being mod- erated by the elevation of the table-lands. On the Colorado desert it is torrid, but not un- healthy, and west of the Sierra Nevada and coast range is celebrated for health and agreea- bleness. From a consideration of these favorable circumstances, and after a close examination of all the sources of increased cost of construction, from the peculiarities of situation, climate, and geological and topographical formation, I am of opinion that the road may be built as a first class road, in regard to superstructure, rail, &c., and equipped sufficiently for the business that may be reasonably expected, for a sum that will not probably exceed $45,000 per mile. The following estimate is submitted, including depots and equipment: ESTIMATE. From Fulton, on the Red river, to the Llano Estacado, 449 miles, at $35,000 per mile, 25 per cent. being added to the cost at eastern prices for one-half the dis- tance; over the Llano Estacado, 125 miles, at $35,000 per mile, peculiarities of construction having been considered, and 50 per cent. at cost at eastern ROUTE NEAR THE THIRTY-SECOND PARALLEL. 99 prices having been added; the sum of the two distances being 624 miles, at SOURCE MING = yrs. Hook sae ce cae cetae a cas eae west eceecsececess $21,840,000 From the Pecos to the Rio Grande, the cost being assimilated to that of the Bal- timere and Ohio railroad for 80 miles, and 50 per cent. being added to the cost —SOmniles,atrovo, 000 per milena. 2 rss 4 aes ee eae ele $6,000,000 The remaining 83 miles, at $45,000 per mile............-.-.....- $3,735,000 $9,735,000 From the Rio Grande to San Pedro, on the Pacific, 831 miles, at $45,000 per TEL Cee ere e eee eT acho or eee mat! te Caio Ue ly. Sal ad $37,395,000 Total from Fulton, on Red river, to San Pedro, being 1,618 miles......-----.- $68,970,000 In continuation to San Francisco, the distance from the Rio Grande at El Paso to San Fernando may be considered the same as to San Pedro, and the amount of estimate as above may be adopted. The remaining distance from San Fer- nando to San Francisco is about 421 miles, of which about 75 miles is of a highly favorable character of mountain passes, which may be estimated at OOM COOmperpunil esters erat atetsinrs = a)e sya! ayer sate oS = e “ls ola jas s Se iG a ga |e a} Cj ro} © 2 2 ° Ss Ps, SVE VS \ol) 3S 3 2 s ls a \3 ald Jala a e| 3 a a = tb = = aplelelselelelsle| 2 s th = =] S 3 So =) — S S a — Ss mz 2 5 3 3 t s/s /Ss/e/F/S iS/S} 3 =) Q rie | S a Xl | lis| a) joo] m Miles. Miles.| Feet. | Miles. Feet 1,410, 2,025 19, 100] 2,387 a$140,871,000| 535) 1, 490/6 1,000] 631) 580) 720| 130) 97] 28 | 6,044 | ‘ | | 1,455) 1,864 18,100) 2,207/a 130,781,000] 374| 1,490/4 1,000] 470| 580] 720) 130] 97| 28}. | 6,044 | 1,410) 2,032.29, 120, 2,583 116,095,000) 632) 1, 400 61,100} 180; 170} 210) 160 580)255)/270 107 20 ..| 8,373 ) 1,740) 2,080,49, 986) 3,125 seen e eee 620) 1,460/6 1,100) 340) 276) 165] 348 456/170) 60/155 80 20) 10, 032 1,740} 2,290 565514] 3,360) .0.c.0c0ece0e 670} 1,620] -1,100| 275, 308) 190). 143,725]284]110/155 80 20/10, 032 | 1,360) 1,892/48,812 2, 816d 169, 210, 265] 416) 1,476) 2,300) 305) 347) 260) 185 160}305/235 95)..)..| 7,472 Seeees 25 1741505670; 3.137). cece vevcecee| G44). 1,530) 2,300) ccclereslancclsecelevelevnlers|oeelesloslocsecs | 1,400) 1,618 32,784 2,239! 68,970,000) 408) 1,210} 2,300} 485) 300) 100) 170 503) 60)...)...). 5,717], 1,620| 2,039142;008 2,834 93,120,000, 759] 1,280] 2,300] 700| 410| 160| 205 504) 60)...|- 5,717 Tunnel at ele- vat’n of 5,219 feet. Tunnel at ele- vatn of 5,219 feet. Tunnel at ele- vat’n of 9,940 feet. Tunnel at ele- vat’n of 9,540 feet. aThese are the estimates of the office, those of Gov. Stevens having been.brought to the same standard of increased cost as the other routes, and his equipment reduced to that of the other routes. His estimates were $117,121,000 and $110,091,000. 6 These sums do not include the areas of cultivable soil as far west as the Cascade and Sierra Nevada mountains. ¢ Supposing the route to be a straight line, with uniform descent from the Un-kuk-o0-ap mountains (near Sevier river) to the entrance of the Tah-ee- chay-pah Pass—the most favorable supposition. d This estimate for the route near the 35th parallel] is thought to be largely in excess. The sum of the minor undulations (not included in the sum of ascents and descents here given) will probably be greater for the route of the 47th parallel than for the other routes ; that for the route near the 32d parallel will probably be the least of all. With the amount of work estimated for the roads in this report, the equated lengths corresponding to the sum of ascents and descents has but little practical value. With a full equipment and heavy freight business, the sum of ascents and descents becomes itnportant. 108 TABLE OF DISTANCES. Distances of the eastern termini of the several Pacific Railroad routes to the Mississippi river, Boston, New York, Charleston, and New Orleans, by railroad built, building, and projected, as measured on the ‘* Railroad maps.” Miles. 1, St. Paul to: Boston. 22c,.2% Ses tear sbew. Ale ce ee ee ee eee 1,316 to’ New York accdenct ee ee iro cea eee ee eee eee 1,190 to: Charleston. s22335.4 nb on oes 6 ee eee eee Eee 1,193 to: New :Orléans? i422 A354 sic 235. ee es eee ee 1,198 2. Council Bluiisito-Rock Island (Miss-riven)sen= - 222-1 eee ee ao eee eee eee 267 to) Boston fe. ae aoeee Dolce inte 6 wake cree eck Sa ac ee eee 1,374 OMS TR Voy et at es eet er Ae (oe re ee een DA Ee ee 1,252 tor@hanlestone ss ee wcasibe seer ests cde ew tec es eee ree 1,195 tomNew; Orléans. 6% a0) 66 Secepae ot Selous Date ee ee 1,075 3. Westport, mouth of Kansas, (near Fort Leavenworth) to St. Louis, (Miss. river)... -- 245 tof Boston.) 3-. 3 says bb ete eee hee ee Ot 1,415 to New York: 2.06 Shoden cee oe ee ee ee ee 1,220 to Charleston: 25 G2 224025 Aes es 8 ee 1,045 to NewgOrleam Sts * eps cfs tare, aha tore Sie = seis eters ee Ae ee 875 4. Fort Smith, on the Arkansas, to Memphis, (Miss. river)... .<-<-.500= ad mined ln el For a 22-ton engine on six drivers: ihe totaladkesive: Weight 19... Snuie ca.ere a apeiaerais micycndnarctaioeirt gone ete By, formula (1)'the maximum load on adevel 1s. .3.-2-52 ager sone eae aie By formula (2) the maximum grade up which it can draw a load of 76 tons is... By formula (4) the maximum grade for same load is........-.------------- By formula (1) the maximum load this engine can daw up a grade of 150 feet is By formula (3) the maximum load for 150 feet grade is....---.-----.------- For a 24-ton engine on four drivers: The total adbesive weight 4902 os vqjeiccte, etd aie reer elaie = talents eer By formula.(1) the maximum load onja levelises od 42% 2%. oni eames By formula (3) the maximum load on a level is............------------+-- By formula (2) the maximum grade up which this engine can draw a load of 76 (Mh RiSos seo 00s see “Saabs sna Onbos oo qoanar nce SO oes asa ons. Saou By formula (4) the maximum grade for 76 tons is..-.-...--.-------------- By formula (1) the maximum load this engine can draw up a grade of 150 feet is By formula (3) the maximum load for same grade (150 feet) is........--.--- For a 24-ton engine on six drivers: Mheitotal adhesive welt, 1S a's = mae =e pleiele nie ei stele ete aie By formula (2) the maximum grade up which this engine can draw a load of 76 (O08 IS snapoeaeccme seme e ces amb eae epi ee ae ee ee By formula (4) the maximum grade for same load is.....----...----------- By formula (1) the maximum load this engine can draw up a grade of 140 feet is By formula (3) the maximum load up same grade is....-....-----++--+-+--- By formula (1) the maximum load this engine can draw up a 200-feet grade is. By formula (3) the maximum load up same grade is...-....- waite aviicie > « By formula (1) the maximum load up 275 feet grade is.......-+.+---------- By formula (3) the maximum load up same grade is ...-..--------+-------- For a 30-ton engine on four drivers : Wie COAL BOBESIVS WIRES «0% sino hin See oe eee ets aide 4 pone By formula (1) the maximum load on a level is..........- Sse 49,280 1,232 289 201 137 98 34,406 860 615 196 135 95 684 53,760 tons. ce lbs. tons. feet. “ec tons. lbs. tons. CURVES—CONSTRUCTION. Wl By fonaniar(s) the*maxinmm) load! on’ ablevelis../. 0.02. 250022 ee el. 770 tons. By formula (2) the maximum grade for load of 76 tons is............-.----- 250° feet. Bytormula (4)*the maximum grade for 76 tons'is...2-5.5..2. 2.22005... fo 173 ‘“ By formula (1) the maximum load up a grade of 150 feet is............-.--- 1194 tons. By formula (3) the maximum load for same grade is.-....-..--.-...-.-.--- 8 8 « By formula (1) the maximum load on a 200-feet grade is----.-.....-..-...- 934 By formula (3) the maximum load on a 200-feet grade is...--.-.-...-.----4- Oy 0 For a 30-ton engine on six drivers: MPeRtOiAl AdlesIve: WEIODES. =). 2 = rane ele ceec doe wae Seaetincceeees eee 67,200 Ibs. By formula; (1) the maximum, load on a level is. ~~... 2. 2. s2see0sc acess 1,680 tons. By formula (2) the maximum grade up which this engine can draw a load of OG GORTERIA SST A SS i ae a a ls nee eS AMR CS Ce SPY 401 feet. By formula (4) the maximum grade for the same load is...........--------- 281 cc By formula (1) the maximum load this engine can draw up a grade of 150 feet is. 186 tons. By formula (3) the maximum load for same grade is..........-- Rea ere yateyss USB Ep ec By formula (1) the maximum load for grade of 200 feet is........---.----0-- AAG =e By formula (3) the maximum load for the same grade is.......-.-..-------- 1045 « CURVES. On the Virginia Central road there are curves of 300 feet radius on a grade of 328 feet per mile. On a level, trains run on curves of 300 feet radius at a velocity of 20 miles per hour. A radius of 150 feet, and even less, is practicable; but in such cases the velocity of the train must be greatly diminished. There are various formule for the calculation of the resistance on curves, but the simple inspec- tion of a wheel that has been some little time in use will show the inaccuracy of the results. The formulz are based upon the supposition that the surface of the tire is conical; this shape is soon destroyed by what is called the channeling of the wheel. The resistances in question can probably be determined only by the result of many experi- ments with a dynanometer. On the Pennsylvania Central road the grade is reduced on curves at the rate of 0.025 per 100 feet per degree of curvature. CONSTRUCTION. To lay the rails—The road-bed being prepared, cross-ties placed, and iron distributed, a party ef six men will lay half a mile of track per day. The cross-ties should be prepared with corrosive sublimate; the sulphurets do not answer a good purpose. 20,000 spruce cross-ties were prepared in this way, and laid in 1840; they are now perfectly sound, although the natural duration of the wood is but five years. Cross-ties average about twenty-five cents each. Shallow excavations may be covered with workmen. In the case of deep excavations, where the earth cannot be removed laterally, sections of one-half mile, worked from both ends, are usually most advantageous; this distance, however, will depend chiefly upon the relation between the established gradients and the natural surface of the ground. The end of a cut composed of loose gravel or sand will accommodate a force capable of moving 15 to 20,000 yards in a month. In one case, 26,000 cubic yards of sand were moved in that time, the average haul being three- quarters of a mile. ; Long, deep cuts of gravel, sand, or similar deposite, can be opened, (working two levels at each end,) with an average haul of one mile, at the rate of 15,000 to 25,000 cubic yards in 26 days. Ordinary gravel can be dug, thrown into, p, ear, and moved an ayerage haul of 1,000 feet for 120 ‘STATEMENT OF WEIGHTS, COST, ETC. 12 cents to 14 cents per cubic yard; for every additional 100 feet add a third of a cent. One man shovels into a car 15 yards to 18 yards per day. STATEMENT OF WEIGHTS, COST, &C. Locomotives weigh from 12 tons to 30 tons, generally from 20 tons to 24 tons. They cost from $5,000 to $8,500, freight-engines being rather more expensive than passenger-engines. This ineludes the cost of an ordinary eight-wheel tender. A tender on sixteen wheels, carrying about 2,500 gallons of water, will weigh about 28,000 pounds empty. A tender on eight wheels, of 1,250 to 1,500 gallons capacity, weighs 14,000 pounds empty. A tank on exght wheels, holding 3,000 gallons water, will weigh less than an eight-wheel tender, and cost $650. A tank on six wheels, of 2,500 gallons capacity, costs $550. Baggage-cars generally weigh 16,000 pounds, and cost $1,200. Passenger-cars for 50 passengers weigh 12,000 pounds, and cost $2,000. Passenger-cars for 75 passengers weigh 14,000 pounds, and cost $2,500. Freight-cars on eight wheels weigh 14,000 pounds, cost $650, and are of about eight tons to ten tons capacity. Passengers are usually allowed from 50 pounds to 80 pounds of baggage each. The weight of passengers may be estimated at 150 pounds each. On the New England roads the average cost of the transportation of freight is 14 cent per ton per mile. The transportation of passengers costs about 1} cent each per mile. This is the average of the actual running cost, and does not cover depreciation of the road; to provide for this, and to secure a fair profit, it is generally stated that the freights and fares charged must be double the amounts given above. In Massachusetts the average cost of repairing locomotives is (per annum) 64 cents per mile run. For repairing tracks, exclusive of iron renewals, 114 cents. The average durability of iron in Massachusetts is not more than ten years. Old rails are re-rolled at a cost of $25 per ton; the ends may be rewelded for $5 per ton. In this connexion it may be remarked that the ends of the rails first give way, as a general rule; they are repaired by cutting off the injured part of the upper flange and welding on a piece of ‘‘Swedes” bar-iron. Small injuries in the middle part of the rail may be repaired, economically, in the same manner. The average waste of steam while engines are at rest, stopping on the road, steaming up, &c., is one-third of the whole amount generated. In Massachusetts, engines usually run with a pressure of 100 pounds in the boiler. The strength of the boiler is from 350 to 500 pounds. Rails are now rolled from 18 feet to 23 feet in length; on the New England roads they average about 60 pounds to the yard; 90 pounds to the yard is recommended by many engineers as the proper weight for the Pacific railway. A cast-iron wheel of the ordinary size will safely bear a weight of 14 ton. BRIDGES. The railway wooden-truss bridges cost from $30 to $35 per running foot. 200 feet has been found to be about the maximum length that it can safely have; many engi- neers prefer reducing the spans to 50 feet. Iron bridges have been successfully and economically used on some railways, and cost $40 per foot. Many engineers prefer, whenever it is possible, using culverts and high embankments to the WATER AND FUEL. 121 employment of bridges, as being the safer and more economical plan. This course has been adopted with embankments as high as 160 feet. WATER AND FUEL. The capacity and weight of tenders and tanks will be found on page 120. To supply a passenger train, of 200 passengers, for 25 miles, under ordinary circumstances of track, &c., there will be required, of— et eRe eee ele ama are aire Mer ahata ages Oe ate clay URE aociniaie aia dies anleed 1,250 gallons. Moods (Suc lmaswpiune) aerate tars ciate ier seretainsicts 2 cvs ais cle-sioe oes oe Seta rerateare wie ots 1.44 cord. OPO mea aap hrACi te ajar meena pao acme, orate stents Slam SS.a', Sisie'e wa Sisle Geese aS = 0.64 ton. Onmotrcoke.2 =.= saan oeftRepalels Sy aratavele fe a ejode's Soles wisiee oes shcisis cine celeb 5,5 0.62 ton. To supply same train 100 miles— : ORIG Gas See ea SEA WHA a een Ae LO gre ea 5,000 gallons. GTS 6 ic AE aan eRe eee, UO 2c Oe aa A 5.76 cords. Mimcomaantunacite sos 42.0. S 2 ooh os Ue ee ct ee come fe eee eee eee eee 2.56 tons. CL BU Rios cact tie, ARR ape le Nena Sarit ae RU RE cae ESTE AER Le 2.48 tons. The quantity of anthracite as given above is on the supposition that the train makes no long stops; in that case, the amount would have to be increased. The average of six trips on the Boston and Maine railway gives the following result: A load of 170.5 tons (weight of cars and freight, exclusive of engine and tender, in tons of 2,000 pounds) was drawn 74 miles, at a velocity of 14.5 miles per hour, with an expenditure of 4,654.5 pounds of anthracite, and 3,348 gallons of water. The average of eight trips gave asa result that 10.59 pounds of anthracite evaporate 7.48 gallons of water, or 0.78 ton to 1,250 gallons of water. The trip with Cumberland coal indicated that 9.19 pounds of it will evaporate 7.48 gallons (1 cubic foot) water, or 0.64 ton to 1,250 gallons of water. On the same road the average of ten trips results as follows: A load of 210 tons (as above) was drawn 74 miles, at a velocity of 14.1 miles per hour, with an expenditure of 3.4 cords of wood, and 3,734 gallons of water. These experiments were conducted in the winter season, and the track was more or less obstructed by snow and ice, giving a very unfavorable state of the rail. 1 cord of beech evaporates 1,621 gallons water. 1 cord of spruce és 1,200 ce 1 cord of hemlock ‘“ 1,028 ce 1 cord of pitch-pine “ 994 oe 1 cord of white-pine “ 906 ue Cotton-wood can be used, but is one of the least valuable species of timber as a steam-generator per pound; and its specific gravity is very low. The result of a year’s work on the Central road of Georgia shows that one cord of wood was used for every sixty-six and four-tenths miles on the road. As pine wood is corded on the tender, one cubic foot will evaporate one cubic foot (7.48 gallons, or 623 pounds) of water. One cord southern pine weighs 3,180 pounds. One cord common dry pine weighs 2,616 pounds. For passenger trains the water stations are usually about 25 miles apart. For freight trains 12 to 15 miles is found a convenient distance for replenishing the supply. Over ordinary grades, say 30 feet to 40 feet, there would be no difficulty in carrying water and fuel for 100 miles, either by using additional tenders, or large ones made for the especial 16a 122 STATISTICS OF VARIOUS RAILROADS. case, or tanks; the weight, &c., of these being given, it becomes a simple matter of calculating the extra weight to be drawn in any given case. A partial remedy would be to condense the exhaust steam. This has been done in Scotland to a certain extent. In ascending heavy grades water is required oftener than usual. Thus on the heavy grades of the Baltimore and Ohio road (116 feet) water is taken every eight miles; on the Western Massa- chusetts road the water stations are 10 to 12 miles apart on the heavy grades. It is to be remarked that on this road the average consumption of wood is not greater than on others of less heavy grades. When the track is obstructed by snow it becomes necessary for the passenger trains to take in wood and water oftener than usual, using about double the ordinary amount. STATISTICS OF VARIOUS RAILROADS. Boston and Worcester road. Length, 45 miles; maximum grade, 373 feet; minimum radius, 541 feet. This distance is accomplished, by trains of four to six passenger cars, in 14 hour; consuming 14 cord of wood, and evaporating 1,200 gallons of water; water is taken once on the road. Freight trains with maximum loads take water every 12 to 15 miles. An engine has run, with a train, from Boston to Worcester and back (90 miles) with one cord of wood. Boston and Providence road. Length, 433 miles; maximum grade, 37} feet. Trains of four to six passenger cars run at a velocity of 25 miles an hour, maintaining the same up the maximum grade ; they consume 3,500 pounds of wood, and evaporate 10,000 pounds of water; take water once on the road, but no wood. Freight trains as on Worcester road. In severe snow-storms passenger trains drawn by two or more engines take water every 12 to 15 miles. Pennsylvania Central road. Passenger trains wood and water at from 20 to 30 miles; freight trains at an average of 10 miles. Boston and Maine road. Trains of four to seven cars at velocities from 24 to 34 miles per hour; take water every 20 miles. . Boston and Lowell road. Length, 26 miles. Passenger trains pass over this distance in one hour; take neither wood nor water; evaporate 1,100 to 1,200 gallons, and consume three fourths of a cord of pine. Freight trains carrying maximum loads due the engine take water once on the road, and travel with velocity of 12 miles per hour. Burlington to Rutland. Distance, 67 miles. Passenger trains take wood and water once; freight trains take wood and water four times. Rutland to Bellows Falls. Distance, 53 miles; maximum grades, 60 feet. CHARACTERISTICS AND COST OF RAILWAYS. 123 Neither wood nor water is taken on the road in passenger trains. Velocity up maximum grade, 15 miles per hour. With reference to the transportation of coal to be used as fuel, it may be stated that the freights by canal in New York and Pennsylvania vary from 1,%; to 1,74, cent per ton per mile; that the railroad freights on coal average about 1$ cent per ton per mile; and, finally, that in Pennsyl- vania, under very favorable circumstances, coal can be delivered on the canal-boats, at the mine, broken, screened, and weighed, at 55 cents per ton. ‘Taking the average weight of hard wood fit for generating steam at 14 ton per cord, the probable expenses of transporting it by railway would be 24 cents per cord per mile. The experiments before alluded to on the Boston and Maine road show that 1 ton of anthracite ==1.6 cord of wood (such as used there;) or one cord of wood = 0.625 ton of coal, taking evaporating power as the standard of comparison. The general result of these experiments was that coal is more economical, especially with heavy loads, than wood. The presence of metallic salts in water is injurious to the boilers; if in large quantities, they they are prohibitory. From the data given above, it would seem that the cost of transportation of wood for fuel would be about 2.4 times that of coal for the same purpose. Tt will be remarked that freight trains habitually take water oftener than passenger trains; this arises from two principal causes: first, more steam is wasted in freight trains, on account of the great detentions, &c., as well as other causes; secondly, the various water-stations seldom give sufficient water to afford a full supply to several trains; a little is, therefore, taken from each, so that no one need be exhausted. Relations between weight of water and fuel, and maximum load of engine. For a 22-ton engine on 4 drivers, on a level: Weight of water and wood for 25 miles = ,!; of maximum load of engine. Weight of water and wood for 100 miles = ,!, of maximum load of engine. Weight of water for 100 miles and wood for 200 miles = '; of maximum load of engine. Weight of water and wood for 200 miles = ;!5 of maximum load of engine. Weight of water and coal for 25 miles = ;1; of maximum load of engine. Weight of water and coal for 100 miles = ,!; of maximum load of engine. Weight of water for 100 miles and coal for 200 miles = ,'; of maximum load of engine. Weight of water and coal for 200 miles = ,'; of maximum load of engine. The maximum load of this engine, on a grade of 40 feet per mile, is by formula (1) 252 tons; by formula (3) 180 tons. The relative consumption of fuel and water on passenger and freight trains is in proportion to the resistance to be overcome, and may be determined when the velocity and weight of each train are known. CHARACTERISTICS AND COST OF SIX RAILWAYS. 1. Massachusetts Western road. Length of main road, 1553 miles, of which 53 miles is double track; sidings, &c., 84 miles: equivalent to 217 miles single track. Maximum grade, 83 feet for 14 mile; total rise and fall, 2,0S5 feet; minimum radius of curvature, 882 feet; total degrees of curvature, 6,370° ; weight of rail per yard, 564 pounds and 70 pounds ; 33 way-stations, 59 engines, 48 passenger-cars, 17 baggage-cars, 1,666 freight-cars; miles run in one year, 947,382. Graduation and masonry, per mile of TPAUDE ROACH sek sey enye eet ers rece eeretetataiere $22,352 50 Wooden bridges, (6,092 feet,) per foot.........- Cet eee aS Oucsse tr eeaDEae $38 08 124 CHARACTERISTICS AND COST OF RAILWAYS. Superstructure, per imilevof single tracks). “6.0005... CUT eee ee eee $7,243 78 Engineering, per mileof main road.......---.030--- 0-00 Saensecsonseses $1,105 74 Total cost of road in comple te running order, per oie Of mainroad seer eee oe $64,214 56 Total cost of road in running order, exclusive of land damages and stations, per mile ofsmain TOAd... S..c0s. eet dese ase cee eee os- ce oe eee eee $60,042 52 Velocity of express trains, 35 miles ; accommodation trains, 28 miles; freight trains, 15 miles per hour. 2. Boston and Lowell railway. Length of road, 26 miles, all double track ; branches, sidings, &c., 163 miles: equivalent to 68% miles single track. Maximum grade, 10 teet for 6 miles; total rise and fall, 190 feet; minimum radius of curvature, 1,975 feet ; total degrees of curvature, 665°; weight of rail per yard, 56, 60, 63 pounds ; 9 way stations, 22 engines, 22 passenger-cars, 11 bags age-cars, 308 freight-cars ; miles run in one year, 275,681. Graduation and masonary, per mile of main road....-.---.---------------- $15,475 00 Wooden bridyes, (2/397 feet.) per running foots. A222 22 St ser ESL Le $18 81 Superstructure, per mile of single track: F222 22 bP ee ee eee eee ee ee ae $4,967 60 Bupineering, per mile iofi miata roadenes OND 2 AE BUR ID Se be cee $1,632 35 Total cost of road, equipment, &c., in complete running order, per mile of main mond lan. ets 28! be Bitte ea Ae fc SMO Se Ae Ae ee $78,636 00 Total cost of road in running order, exclusive of land damages and stations, per MULEOL MAIN TOAC = 2 s,a\o0 ere a wctoieiee Sele cinis o dee ele eee Oe $39,090 34 On the road the land damages and cost of depots, stations, &c., were enormous. Velocity of express trains, 35 miles ; accommodation, 25 miles; freight, 12 miles per hour. 3. Boston and Maine railway. Length of road, 74 miles, of which 464 double track; branches, sidings, &c., 294 miles: equivalent to 1034 miles single track. Maximum grade, 474 feet for three-fourths of a mile ; total rise and fall, 1,498 feet; minimum radius of curvature, 1,050 feet; total degrees of curva- ture, 1,98S° ; weight of rail per yard, 56 and 60 pounds; 18 way-stations; 28 engines; 35 passenger-cars, 13 baggage-cars, 585 freight-cars; number of miles run in one year, 516,828. Graduation and masonry per mile of main road.........-.-----.---------> $11,920 00 Woodenibridges, (9,619 feet;) per footVi tc. .v.5 seb. ee eee eer $38 61 Superstmucture, per mile of single trachkocc se. cho cso ocala Eee eae $9,517 67 Total cost, in complete running order, per mile of main road.......--------- $55,558 71 Total cost in running order, exclusive of land damages, stations, &c., per mile OU THONN ORG: 2% sss ccs ore eta, cio woidrece nate che etree ae eee ee ee $38,525 78 Velocity of express trains, 36 miles per hour. Velocity of accommodation trains, 24 miles per hour. Velocity of freight trains, 11 miles per hour. 4, Boston and Providence railway. Length, 434 miles, of which 15} double track; sidings, branches, &c., 19 miles: equivalent to 784 miles single track. Maximum grade, 374 feet; total rise and fall, 505 feet; minimum radius of curvature, 1,910 feet ; total degrees of curvature, 342°; weight of rail yer yard, 56 to 58 pounds; 26 way-stations; 20 engines; 31 passenger-cars; 9 baggage-cars; 125 freight- cars ; number of miles run in one year, 305,734. Graduation and masonry, per mile, main road........ 0 SS = $17,625 50 Wooden bridges; *per Minnie toot! <2 < ot See Be ae Rise te pees cease $32 00 COST OF RAILWAYS—DEPOTS. 125 Tron bridges, per running foot.........----------2----- 2-22 2-20-22 eee eee $40 Superstructure, per mile; eiip tevinaele et tft 1 ra. 0. tat rt eee ere aioe = afte SS $8,390 Engineering, per mile, main road......---------------------+-------+---- $2,294 Total cost in complete running order, per Mil esmMaimwhOAd -\s/sfee eels teers oe $81,273 Total cost in running order, deducting land damages, stations, &c., per mile, THAT ORME es oc Sin SEI eT eis ER etmcieiebe streets ote afb ie wpevel ens $57,397 Velocity of express trains, 344 miles per hour. Velocity of accommodation trains, 25 miles per hour. Velocity of freight trains, 14 miles per hour. 5. Vermont Central road. Length, 124 miles. Reta EL ROM. (eG INU). aa tera ee Setar soteimeiage Se sitianine saSie wb 4 o- eee eee ee $6.60 fiehivhyvery bard granite, (U..S.) si a ncpsicpon aw pints ni 9 ninnimnynseeie Eieipiaaiaiea nt $4.36 Scnnyiball: ‘slate; (U.S:) i aia wjesiem cteys saree [see alone oie ais mieten ee $2.00 Whsior rns ENN (ORS) Be eenrco Oocne ena odoe soCOb Use soekes dssendisedacoscesne $2.085 Blisworth, blue clay, lined, (Eng.) .....---. ioe aa ace ciceae eae oes St oe eee eee $1.545 ox, freestone, marble, clay, é¢.; lined; (Hng:)-- ~~~. 2 ewe a ot ee $3.464 Blaisy, exclusive of shafts, but including the lining, (France)..........--.--.--.... $3.176 Blue, Ridse,.costwper Cubichy and sem ose eicie Saas rete eta ose anion See $4.000 The Blaisy tunnel cost, exclusive of shafts, $108 31 per lineal foot. In comparing the cost of tunnels in different countries, the difference of the price of labor should be considered. This has not been done in any of the examples here given; the actual cost in pounds sterling, &c., being simply reduced to dollars. The time required to drive the heading of the Black Rock tunnel was 1,243 days and 1,144 nights, or 2,387 spaces of 12 hours each, for 1,782.5 feet in length of tunnel. For details of this tunnel, see the following tables. In the Kilsby tunnel, a working shaft 129 feet deep, much troubled with water, was finished in seven or eight weeks. In hard rock, where continual blasting is required, two expert miners can run a “ branch” 40 inches by 32 inches to the length of 10.5 inches in 12 hours. A tunnel cannot be pushed further than 500 feet without resorting to artificial means of venti- lation. Ventilation is found to be better in cold weather than in warm. Headings are about 12 feet high; width at base, that of tunnel at that height. In the table on the succeeding page, P. L. means partly lined with masonry. 7 lined with masonry. not lined with masonry. se not stated. has shafts. supposed to have shafts. sf average depth. a average per running foot taken from total cost. a was constructed to drain the lakes in the valley of Mexico, to prevent overflows. Measures are in feet and decimals ; Time, in working days ; Cost, in dollars and decimals. . - - UP OREN P (X.)—For details of construction of Kilsby tunnel, see American Railroad Journal, vol. I, new series, (1838,) page 229 et seq. TUNNELS. Comparative Table of some of the largest Tunnels. 1 a s a * Zc 3S F| 3 =| & Name of tunnel. Formation. 5 = es I | re Locality. 3S at = =! 77 S 4 ey S ’ a | 8 Sues 2 S 3 = S| = er =| = = s 3 Es i) a 3 =) a a|s R 4 = 5 a Feet. Dollars.| Dollars. Nerthe .......+--+| P. L.| 4 ...| Hard limestone,..| 24...| 610..| 29.5 >< 26.25 | 15,153 |....+.../.0.... «++| 1,298,450 | Near Marseilles, France. Riqueval . P. L.} 1803 | Chalk..........-.| 54...| 210..| 26.25 x 26.25 | 18,623) 2,139] 39.887 742,817 | St. Quentin canal, France. Pouilly..... P. L.) 1824 | Chalk and clay.,.| 32...| 164..| 20.34 >< 20.34 | 10,928 | 2,504 | 113.965 | 1,245,412 | Bourgogne canal, France. Asschviller.......- Picea | L809) | Zaccatecssenine cee Maal Ziresc|) BOsc0De 20.2011) cy Goe 1,878 | 68.38 |a. 504,897 Maine and Rhine canal, rance. Mauvage..... ewes) Zhe 1840) |i Aicccecnisecdeceste |e Z...| 25.59 25,59 | 15,752 | 2,085 | 94.43 |a.1,487,393 | Maine and Rhine canal, France. Rolleboise.........| Z--..| 1841 | Chalk........+...| S.8.| Z...| 24.94 < 24.94 | 8,670 626 | 62.98 546,099 | Rouen railway, France. Roule .... «| Z....| 1841 | Z... S.S.| Z...| 24.94 « 24.94 | 5,645 522} 62.98 355,513 | Rouen railway, France. WslOran ...0..0c00.| Aer 1839 | Zo. ncecccccceccee|S5.| Zoe.| 21.83 21.33] 4,548) 2,087 | 56.98 259,173 | National road, No. 126, France. Kilsby, (X).......|/L....| 1834 | Clay and sand....| 18 164..| 27 | X 23.50 | 7,233 | 1,252 | 194.31 1,405,417 | London and Birmingham railway, England. Blechingly........| L...,| 1840 | Blue clay.........| 12...] 97...| 294 25.05 | 3,972 626 | 162.86 423,271 | London and Dover rail- way, England. ‘Thames and Med- | P. L.| 1822 | Chalk. ..........| S....| 194..] 30 > 38.7 | 11,880 939 | 45.59 541,550 leans and peey ca- way. . nal, England. BOX. . 200.0000) P. L.| 1837 | Marble, freestone,| 15...] 400..| 35 >< 39 9,680 | 1,252) 148,15 1, 434, 063 | Great Western railway— marl, &e. shafts 25 feet diameter, one-third of tunnel in rock—Fngland. Hare Castle.......|L....| 1824 | Rock and sand....| 15...| 187..] 14 16 8,778 939) 57.05 500, 799 ene ae Mersey canal, ngland. Nochistonge (D)..| L....| 1807 | Clay and marl,...| S....| 164..) 13.78 x 11.48 | 21,659 287 || nce eve soodebenc no Zumpango, Mexico; a Desagua. Blisworth.,. aE can 16.5 < 18 9,240 | 2,191 | 93.185 214,229 | G. J. canal, England. Sapperton P.L. 150) 5<5 12,900 | 1,878 | 12.44 160,476 | Thames and Severn canal, England. Black Rwock.. NL..| 1835 | Greywacke slate..| 6.. 139..| 19 17.23] 1,932 sees! 77.18 149,120 | Reading, Penn., railway, United States. Blaisy....... .|L....| 1846 | Chalk, clay, &c...| 22 646...) 26.25 < 96.25 | 13,455 | 1,043 | 136.06 1, 830, 730 ree and Lyons railway, rance. Edge Hill.........| P. L.| 1826 | Clay and freestone| S....| Z-..| 22 X16 6,600 |.... 30.15 198,969 | Liverpool and Manchester railway, England. Littlebourg .......| Lr .+..| 1840 | Z..scceeccescceees| 14...|(C)177| 27.5 XX 24 8,607 590 | 129.61 1,115,544 | Manchesterand Leeds rail- way, England. Weodhead .......| Z....| Z...| Millstone rock....| 5.-+-| 600..|....eseeeeeeeeee| 15,840 | 1,800 ]..... eeey| 1,026,705 Manchester and Sheffield railway, England. A tunnel has been projected at Mt. Cenis, on the line of the Lyons and Turin railway, of the length of 7.6 miles; the gradient in the tunnel to be 105 feet to the mile; the section of the tunnel to be 19 by 25 feet; no shafts to be used. By the aid of machinery it was expected to complete this work in five years, at an expense of $2,615,000. The inventor of the machine and the engineer of the road is the Chevalier Mause. His plans and estimates were submitted to, and approved by, a board of eminent engineers and geologists, among whom was the celebrated Mr. Robert Stevenson. The tunnel projected through the Hoosack mountain was to have been 44 miles long, 23 feet by 22 feet ; two shafts about 850 feet and 750 feet deep, 10 feet in diameter. The cost variously estimated at from $2,000,000 to $3,000,000. ‘Time estimated by different engineers at from four to ten years. The machinery designed for boring did not succeed, and the project has not as yet been commenced seriously. At the crossing of the Blue Ridge by the Virginia Central railroad there are four tunnels. The main tunnel is 4,280 feet in length; has been four years under construction, and is estimated to require two years more to complete it. No shafis are used. It is ventilated by machinery. A portion of it is lined. It is for a single track, and is in the clear 21 feet high by 15 feet in width. Where lined, the abutments of the lining are 4 feet thick; the arches 3 feet thick. The excavation in these places is 26 feet high by 23 feet wide. A portion of one of the small tunnels is through a very difficult formation of loose rock and earth. In the main tunnel much trouble is experienced from the water. The main tunnel is 700 feet below the crest of the mountain through which it passes. The workmen are arranged in three reliefs, and work night and day. No machinery is used for boring or excavating. It is the opinion of the engineer that no machinery can be applied when the tunnel requires lining, for want of space. He states that no excavating machine has yet been successful. La 130 SNOW—FREIGHTS—CATTLE, ETC. SNOW. The roads in Massachusetts, with rare exceptions, find little difficulty in clearing the track from snow in the course of one day. They only fail to do so when the snow drifts badly, and packs hard. To open the road, from two to five engines are attached to each train, with a snow-plough in front. The train pushes through until stopped, when it backs off and again advances. Snow to the depth of five or six feet, as a maximum, can be cleared in this manner. With higher ploughs and additional power, it is possible that slightly greater depths of light snow may be worked through. Snow a foot deep does not present a very great obstacle—that is to say, the train makes regular progress at reduced speed. Embankments are far less obstructed than cuts. Cuts of twenty feet deep, and upwards, are less obstructed than those of from five to ten feet. Alongside of cuts like the latter, snow fences are used. These are board fences, about eight feet high, placed some twelve feet back from the edge of the excavation. Drifting snow obstructs a train far more than a settled fall; for when the engine is brought to a state of rest, and finds it necessary to “back” in order to obtain a new impetus, the snow blows in under the wheels, and sometimes “blocks” the train so that it cannot move either way. In such cases a large manual force is necessary to clear all the wheels at once. Men and shovels are always carried on the train when the fall of snow is great, in order partially to open heavy drifts and to provide for the contingency of the train being blocked. Freight trains should be discontinued until the road is opened; the work being done by the passenger trains. Light dry snow is by no’ means so serious an obstacle as wet heavy snow, except in regard to its liability to drift. In opening the road over heavy gradients, commence working from the summit. When the snow opposes a considerable resistance the engines use about double the usual quantity of fuel and water. Snow-ploughs are generally of two sizes; the larger sizes are from nine to ten feet high, and about seven feet broad; the smaller are about four feet high by seven feet broad, and are some- times of iron. FREIGHTS. Average freights during the last eight years from Calcutta to Boston $15 per ton. Average for same time from Calcutta to London $17 per ton. From Canton to the United States $10 to $18 per ton. From Canton to England $26 per ton. From Shanghai to the United States $10 to $20 per ton. From Shanghai to England $26 to $30 per ton. Freights from Boston to San Francisco average since 1849, $22 per ton; at present, $12 per ton. Average freight from China and the East Indies to San Francisco $13 per ton. Silks usually pay $5 per ton more than teas. CATTLE, &C. The total number of live stock carried over the Baltimore and Ohio railway during the year ending September 30, 1854, was 164,869, of which number 75,575 were transported a distance of 368 miles. At the same rate of freight as on the Baltimore and Ohio road it would cost about $36 per head for horned cattle from Fort Smith to San Francisco, and about $42 per head from Memphis. To transport horses and mules by railroad from Memphis to San Francisco, by way of Fort Smith, would cost about $47 per head. REPORT UPON THE COST OF TRANSPORTING TROOPS AND SUPPLIES TO CALIFORNIA, OREGON, NEW MEXICO, ETO, ETC: MAJOR GENERAL THOMAS 8. JESUP, QUARTERMASTER GENERAL, U. 8. ARMY. HY ae ae —— : 7 Motes » Ce 4 J Ahir ar cme MNRAS COST OF TRANSPORTING TROOPS, &c. QUARTERMASTER GENERAL'S OFFICE, Washington City, November 16, 1854. Sm: In reply to your letter, dated the 8th instant, asking information in regard to trans- portation, I have the honor to report, in answer to the ‘‘1st.—The present cost of transporting troops to San Francisco and Fort Vancouver, via the Isthmus, how much for each officer and soldier; stating whether the price includes their food, and, if not, what additional amount is paid for food, or the transportation of their rations and arms,’’—that the last troops sent to San Francisco, via the Isthmus, (in May, 1854,) their transportation was as follows: $225 for, each commissioned officer; $150 for each enlisted soldier, laundress, &c. The whole were subsisted by the contractor; 100 pounds of baggage allowed to each person on the steamers, and 25 pounds each across the Isthmus; all over the 25 pounds across the Isthmus to be paid for at 15 cents per pound. No troops have been sent from the Atlantic coast direct to Vancouver or Oregon, via the Isthmus. For those sent from San Francisco, California, to Vancouver or Oregon, in June, 1853, $75 was paid for each commissioned officer, and $40 for each enlisted soldier, &c., and $30 a ton for stores. In December, 1853, $15 a ton, and in February, 1854, $20 a ton, for stores. From information received from New York since the receipt of your letter, I learn that the company now demands $300 for each officer, and $150 for each enlisted soldier, from New Orleans to San Francisco, including the transit of the Isthmus—extra baggage to be paid for at 15 cents per pound. To the ‘‘2d.—What is the cost of the transportation of provisions, in bulk, to San Francisco and Fort Vancouver, via the Isthmus, and also via Cape Horn,’’—I have to report that no pro- visions or other public stores, in bulk, have been sent to San Francisco or Fort Vancouver, via the Isthmus; but from information just received from New York, I learn that the present charges by that route are $14 a ton to Aspinwall, $300 a ton (15 cents per pound) across the Isthmus, and $80 a ton from Panama to San Francisco—say $394 a ton of 2,000 pounds. The agents of the line think, that when the railroad across the Isthmus shall be completed, the freight across will not exceed one-fourth of the above, $75 a ton—say $169 for the whole dis- tance. Via Cape Horn to San Francisco, or Benicia, subsistence stores have been shipped during the present year from Baltimore at 90 cents per cubic foot, $4 50 per flour-barrel; and from New York at $3 70 per barrel for flour, and 60 cents per cubic foot for other packages. To the ‘‘3d.’"—The same rates will apply to camp and garrison equipage and clothing ; as all such freight, by sea-going vessels, is charged for by the cubic foot. To the ‘4th,’ I have to report that ordnance and ordnance stores have been sent from New York, via Cape Horn, in June, 1854, at two cents per pound for ordnance, consisting of heavy guns, carriages, shot and shells; in August at $28 per ton for the same, and in October at two cents a pound for the heavy ordnance; and 60 cents per cubic foot for ammunition, and other boxes, &c. None have been sent via the Isthmus. To the ‘‘5th”’ I report, that, during the present year, the contracts for the transportation of military stores of all kinds are as follows: From Fort Leavenworth to El Paso, $14 per 100 lbs. 134 COST OF TRANSPORTING TROOPS, ETC. From Fort Leavenworth to Fort Fillmore, $13 75 per 100 Ibs. From Fort Leavenworth to Albuquerque, $10 83 per 100 Ibs. From Fort Leavenworth to Fort Union, $7 96 per 100 lbs. No transportation has ever been paid for men, as they march, the only cost being for the transportation of their baggage, subsistence, &c., on the route. This may be estimated at about $15 per man to Albuquerque. The above are about the average rates for several years past, and it may be presumed will be those for the future. As to what was the cost of transporting artillery and supplies from the city of New York to the northern frontier in the war of 1812—'14, this office furnishes no information, and I think it would be extremely difficult, if not impossible, to ascertain what were the average rates. There were no permanent or Macadamized roads in northern New York during that period, and the passage of heavy-loaded wagons, at the best of times, extremely difficult and slow. It may be fair to presume that each ton cost at the rate of $5 (the daily cost of a wagon and team) for each ten miles of distance from Albany to the different points on the frontier when the roads were in the best condition, and double this in the spring and fall of the year—say from fifty cents to one dollar a mile for each ton transported. For General Harrison’s army on the northwestern frontier, there were instances when the teams, loaded with forage, not only consumed all they were transporting to that army, but hhad to draw forage from the army depots to enable them to return. Much of the subsistence intended for the army was also consumed by the teamsters and escorts en route. Since writing the above, I have information from New York that heavy freight can now be sent to San Francisco at about $15 a ‘ton, and 30 cents per foot for measurement goods, and that a vessel could be chartered for Fort Vancouver at $20 a ton. These rates should not, however, be taken as ruling for the coming year, freight of all kinds being extremely low at this time. I have the honor to be your obedient servant, TH. 8. JESUP, Quartermaster General. Hon. Jerry. Davis, Secretary of War. wed: 2s oi — —) 7s as “> ee P 4) 6 4 EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS FOR A RAILROAD ROUTE FROM THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN, WAR DEPARTMENT. REPORT OF EXPLORATIONS FOR A ROUTE FOR THE PACIFIC RAILROAD, NEAR THE FORTY-SEVENTH AND FORTY-NINTH PARALLELS OF NORTH LATITUDE, FROM ST. PAUL TO PUGET SOUND. BY I. I. STEVENS, GOVERNOR OF WASHINGTON TERRITORY, - ipa 4 Ae eC Wee ry | ps CLONAL OMONDINT LOT TOO LO ae 4. sue Aan ” wf 7 - 7 av - ; + te - MV LERAL INE MOV, A LA tt SD he EP Aa Wiel 4 eas 7 ew aid = > \ — a - , < | 4 2 hs . whe — —ey Fa we ry oad Se Jk ole \ ay @ ph te ae : AK UOe PRET OF" FES ee ond jp a 2 ’ _- » 4a Lamy anne Ee Tre anna, RA nuges's0e LAB ie OF CON TENT Sz JOIN TA aE Page, Letter of Governor I. I. Stevens to the Secretary of War. Steamer Nominee, Upper Missouri, May 27, 1853......... 1 Object of the exploration. ...--------.------------ ------ ++ 22-2 --2 2-2 eee eee eee wae cee ene ene een ee eaceser e556 2 General organization of the expedition. .----- .----. ------ --2 22+ one nena en ee ne ene ene ne nnn een wn nnn ewes 5 3 Programme of meteorological observations ...---- -----< ------ ------ p--na n wenn pewnne omnnne arene nnn 5 Memoranda in relation to sketches in natural history, geology, botany, and to views of scenery and natural objects-..-. a structions tok MACNOblC ODSELVALIONG! = cea e = satce =! are waa me Salen aie wee alee aw eels eel anal alatetaielelnie alae =ia ea la alae 8 Memoranda in reference to natural history operations...---..----- MOdooE BooceD cagete CaocEd CooDoO cmoDe Rees SemoeS 9 Directions for mineralogical and geological examinations ........--...----.----..---------- SeCHeC or CeeponeDectiod il Letter of Governor I. I. Stevens to the Secretary of War. Camp Pierce, June 3, 1853 ....-..-----.--------------- 13 Report of reconnaissance of the Upper Mississippi from St. Paul to Fort Ripley, by Mr. F. W. Lander. St. Paul, May 92) TEED. cose Seno eT E COL OD DERE EH OOS Eon EEE GEER a See ee ee eee 14 Letter of instructions from Governor I. I. Stevens to Mr. F. W. Lander. Camp Pierce, May 31, 1853 ..---.---.---- 16 Letter of instructions from Governor I. I. Stevens to Mr. A. W. Tinkham. Camp Pierce, May 31, 1853........---.. 17 Letter of Governor I. I. Stevens to the Secretary of War. Camp Davis, near Sauk rapids, June 10, 1853...--..----. 18 Letter of Governor I. I. Stevens to the Secretary of War. Camp McClelland, west side of Cheyenne river, July 4, 1853 19 Letter of Governor I. I. Stevens to the Secretary of War. Camp Cushing, near Fort Union, August 18, 1853......... 20 Letter of Governor I. I. Stevens to the Secretary of War. Fort Benton, September 8, 1853.....-...----..----.---- 22 Letter of Governor I. I. Stevens to the Secretary of War. Fort Benton, September 8, 1853..---....--..----..---- . 23 Letter of Governor I. I. Stevens to the Secretary of War. Fort Benton, September 8, 1853...-....---.-----.------ 24 Letter of Captain G. B. McClellan, corps of engineers, to the Secretary of War. Camp at Ketetas, on Yakima river, Spal” Ue) WEB R cosas Seas ocoo cos Goon ecesoe cero escons podaceceoess Saabegsess cece coocos epesnonetgonsees 24 Letter of Governor I. I. Stevens to the Secretary of War, giving statement of results already accomplished, work to be done during the fall and winter, and work proposed from the resumption of operations in the spring to the close of the next fiscal year. Fort Benton, September 18, 1853. -- <2. 1 -- - ooo oe oon en won penne cece en ween ne none ooen 26 Order issued on arrival of Lieutenant Saxton at Fort Benton, September 15, 1853...-..----..-..------------------ 33 Instructions to Lieutenant C. Grover, September 5, 1853 34 Instructions to Lieutenant J. Mullan, September 8, 1853 34 Instructions to Lieutenant A. J. Donelson, September 7, 1853..--- .- 220-2222 ones cee eens cen wn een nne 35 imsiractions to Lieutenant A. J. Donelson; September 7, L853: 42s -s- 2-5 oe poor e cin nn an we cece wesees een accinacecace 36 Instructions to Lieutenant A. J. Donelson, September [4, 1853...--..----------.------.-------- wosanuiaetoaceeass. 38 instructions to Lieutenant hh. Saxton, Septembernd9: 1653-22 <- oo ooo ecco cee een caccee sn cceem erences ane cess 3 PINUCHOUS LOM Tr. AMES) DOtY, PeplOmMVOLy lOO eee ane see alte ale im a eels lela e emcee elo slopes aaa safe le eee 41 UNG sacned SaceosonesSasndcte Gees coe Groene Cot oo ceoren cenSed sees GaSSS5 SESS DEroEe cogcot Sesccocaccorcccee 41 to 52 Letter of Governor I. I. Stevens to Captain J. W. T. Gardner, relieving him from duty on account of ill health. Camp HBG, dITOG) 3h, USES! cegcsonbes case con psbnsbacondobeo sess osnecnonpEesos coaSSonsq0otDesoogd AGHesebanese cacn 52 Letter of Governor I. I. Stevens to the Secretary of War, submitting statement of operations since report from Fort Tarim limps Wo Me DERE OG hy IER ee oe copa SSDS HRSSOSHon once enod shige SapoRe Ecosse HeSaeece bone 52 Letter of Lieutenant J. Mullan to Governor I. I. Stevens, reporting arrival at St. Mary’s village from Fort Benton. St. WOODS TOES Ville Whe, OG 2 SSB Repose Bese CO TCC S Se SOO BAOC TO GOCE G0 HSS SeS CIES ED OSEOON RSs ne Seeo SeOraE 59 inierecmnsatonlneutenanucl. \ullan,Octobor onleoo o-secaceie costs ceceee clecbace cotuivecieneee=sjaoneeetaecwsce 61 PUM HONBLOS Men tenant Act. DOnelson, October 2), cosas oes sclctccioceee be cee cs cccenacesvecce sccccececcsaeces 62 neon Lm GEOLoe Suckley) Ocuober 2, 160d. saa seas nlaen ei nts See ececleceie ae ciciticisaecieniniecaeeceetientees 64 Instructions to Mr. A. W. Tinkham, October 3, 1853......---.- WM s aiee eee G a eee Rota oho aoe os nce deteas ess 64 MoRtric uo une HINeRE Moby October is WlG08 cect cosets se -Sein Sci ec rece eee cosisan se teeeaeedlesee/ese uae 65 UAC UCHOL ME enbenantiOn| Grover, OCtOber a; 1853s 2scc=c <-iemnass sewenn=mi==>a\enmnaaen ns J 40.—Report of Lieutenant John Mullan, U.S. A., on the Indian tribes in the eastern portion of Washington Territory. Bitter Root; Valley, W. 'T., November.18; 18532 _. 2. 0. << - wana cccecs anon ceee ences care emnslenna == ae eee J 41.—Reports of Mr. James Doty on the Indian tribes of the Blackfoot nation, Fort Benton, December, 1853...---- J 42.—Report of Mr. J. M. Stanley’s visit to the Piegan camp at the Cypress mountain. Washington, D. C., January 19: ABSA 22! 3h seen al. weiclgld tee Sec de 2 qo eee ee ee 23. Seeks ee eee ee eee Letter of the Secretary of War to Governor I. I. Stevens. Washington, a 25, 154 Sod (enenae ese see seal Letter of Governor I. I. Stevens to the Secretary of War, with statement of partial results of the exploration, latitudes and longitudes, and barometric and meteorological observations. Washington, D, C., August 4, 1854..-..----.---. Report of George Gibbs on a reconnaissance of the country lying upon Shoal Water bay and Puget sound. Olympia, W. T., March 1, 1854.2 .22. coon. cece cnn ne wenn wee ew ewes cen n ne cee nae concen cer ese cane wees mans cone nena wae Report of George Gibbs upon the geology of the central portion of Washington Territory. Olympia, W. T., May 1, 18542 seoeeeee tee weet oda ee Sos ae ee elaine net Spee ae aioe kl amelie namie el Be ee ee ee = Final report of Lieutenant C. Grover of his examinations from Pike lake to Fort Union. ..-.--------------------- = Final report of Lieutenant C. Grover of his survey of the Missouri from the Great Falls to the mouth of Milk river- -- Final report of Lieutenant C. Grover of his examinations on a trip from the headwaters of the Missouri to the Dalles of the(Columbin cbs a2s cas Sec ce St Stews veceiem mee nlene ee +t » Lap & 9 ¢@ Pavel, baele REPORTS FROM THE FIELD. Upprr Mississrppr, Steamer Nominee, May 27, 1853. Dear Str: I have the honor respectfully to inform the department, that I left Washington city on the 9th instant, stopped in New York one day to transact business, and taking the route of Lake Erie and Chicago, reached St. Louis on the 15th. I remained in St. Louis until the departure of the Fur Company’s boat on the 21st, which carried up ten thousand rations to Fort Union, and a small party, consisting of Lieutenant Donelson, Lieutenant Mullan, Mr. Graham, and six sappers and miners. Lieutenant Donelson is instructed to make the best possible survey of the Missouri, and of the country in the vicinity of Fort Union, from the White Harth to the Poreupine rivers. Whilst at St. Louis I secured the services of Alexander Culbertson, Esq., as a special agent among the Blackfeet Indians. He has lived in the country twenty years, and knows by name every adult male in each tribe. He estimates the number to be from fifteen hundred to eighteen hundred lodges. I found him to bea reliable, steadfast, calm man. He joins the main party at Fort Union, and accompanies us to Fort Benton. The Fur Company make the trip, 400 miles, in twenty days, four mules drawing 1,600 pounds. The grasses in the Blackfeet region are exceedingly good, the country is well watered, and wagons can be taken to the very base of the mountains. The Blackfeet tribes know all the passes in the mountains, and Mr. Culbertson assures me that we shall have no difficulty in securing the confidence of, and controlling the Blackfeet. With vigilance and firmness, I entertain no apprehensions whatever. Dr. John Evans, who is intrusted with the geological reconnaissance of Oregon, under the supervision of the General Land Office, for which Congress has made a special appropriation, has accepted the position of geologist of my expedition. He will, on his way to Oregon, go through the ‘‘Mauvaises Terres,’’ exploring the routes in that interesting region, connecting it with the Missouri by two lines, leading respectively to Fort Pierre and Fort Union, and making for my exploration collections of the highest value to geological science. The topo- graphical information which he will collect will be a great assistance in enabling me to deter- mine the best route for my return party. Dr. Evans will place at the disposal of the expedi- tion all his topographical notes and barometrical observations crossing the mountains, and thus, at very small expense, the expedition will derive from his labors great aid in both its direct and incidental objects. I shall reach St. Paul’s this evening, where I expect to find all the arrangements well ad- vanced to commence the exploration, and from which place I hope to start, at the furthest, by the first of June. I will communicate again with the department as I leave the settlements, and will at the same time enclose a statement of expenditures up to that point. I enclose, herewith, printed copies of the instructions given in each branch of the survey. As the party was quite numerous, and each member receives copies of them, in addition to if 2 OBJECT OF THE EXPLORATION. specific instructions, I had them all printed, except the paper called ‘‘ General Organization of the Expedition,’ as it was more economical than to be subjected to clerk hire for so great a labor. I have the honor to be, very truly, your obedient servant, ISAAC I. STEVENS. Hon, Jerrerson Davis, Secretary of War. NORTHERN PACIFIC RAILROAD EXPEDITION. The special object of the exploration is the determination of a railroad route from the head- waters of the Mississippi river to Puget sound. In consequence of the meagreness of the in- formation in reference to the country to be gone over, particularly in the Rocky and Cascade mountains, a general topographical survey must be had of these mountains between the 46th and 49th parallels, and of most of the intervening country, in order to determine the general course of the railroad and furnish the data to guide the civil engineers in determining the route. The operations involved are therefore as follows: 1. A general reconnaissance of the country.—This reconnaissance will embrace the general features of the country, as mountain ranges and passes, windings of rivers and streams, their dividing ridges, prairies, and everything which shall be necessary in the construction of a general map of the country passed over. The result of this examination, done by recon- noitring corps assigned to the special duty, will be to determine the most advantageous route to be pursued for the railroad, and to direct the movements of the party intrusted with locating it. It will be an important object in the general reconnaissance to determine, with all possible accuracy, the important features of the country, especially those which have a bearing upon the location and construction of the proposed railroad. Of this class are the important points of the Missouri and Columbia rivers, as the heads of steamboat and boat navigation; the debouches of the mountain passes, both of the Cascade and Rocky mountain ranges; and of such import- ant points the latitude and longitude should be determined, either by the sextant and transit, or by the sextant and chronometer, as may be practicable. The observations of important objects by compass ranges should be referred either to those points whose geographical positions have been determined, or to the base line of the route. Parties intrusted with reconnaissances and surveys will make topographical sketches of the country on the several routes pursued by them, and will, as far as practicable, be supplied with the necessary instruments for working with facility. In the lack of an odometer for measure- ment, such means must be made use of as are generally resorted to in similar cases, as measure- ment by the pace of a horse or a man, &c. 2. The survey and location of the railroad.—This will be along the route resulting from the labors of the reconnoitring corps, and will embrace all the facts bearing upon the construction of the road; particular regard being had by the reconnoitring corps, and the corps intrusted with the location of the road, to the natural facilities for the transportation of iron, supplies, &c., which will be required for the road. Objects observed will be referred to the known points of the base line of the route, referred to hereafter. The route will be run by compass courses day by day, and measured by an odometer, and the results thus obtained, checked by the daily determination of latitude and longitude, will form the base line, to which will be referred all objects observed in the survey. A general profile of the route will be determined by means of barometrical measurements. The altitudes of the halting places at night and noon, the tops of ridges and bottoms of valleys, and, so far as possible, the altitudes for the construction of a continuous profile, in connexion GENERAL ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDITION. 3 with the measurements by the odometer, will be obtained. In the crossing of rivers, the height of the banks must be noted; the depth of the water, the apparent highest water, the nature of the bottom on which the foundation for the abutments and piers must rest, the width between the banks, and all information determining the means and cost for carrying a road over the stream, should be obtained as fully as practicable. So, in smaller crossings of gullies and small streams, similar facts in reference to culverts should be obtained. In general, everything in the character of the country passed over affecting the construction of a railroad will be noted, the estimated or determined grades, the nature of the excavation, facilities for obtaining stone, timber, and all building materials, &c., &ec. The positions of all objects noted on the route will be determined either directly by the odometer and compass, referred to the line of the route by compass bearing and estimated dis- tance from one point, or simply sketched in, according to the importance of the object. 3. The decisive points which must determine the location of the road are the mountain passes of the Cascade and Rocky mountain ranges; and it may occur that the location of the road between the two ranges, and for a long distance east of the Rocky mountains, must be sus- pended until these passes be examined and selected; and much of the general reconnaissance must be made after the selection of these mountain passes, which are the controlling points of the survey. It is proposed to construct the following maps, embodying the geographical results of the exploration ; and the efforts of reconnoitring and surveying parties will be especially directed to obtaining the best data for the construction of these maps: A general map, scale 3354553, from the headwaters of the Mississippi river to the Pacific ocean, and from the 42d to the 56th parallel. A map in two sheets, scale ;z54y55, of Washington Territory, and thence eastward to the headwaters of the Mississippi. A map, scale z5 557, Cascade range, Rocky mountains, and other critical points of the route. Mountain passes, scale gyhyy- Working sketches, scale z545,-. The field-books are constructed so as to be convenient for reduction to the scale of the several maps above. As ruled, in small squares of about 3 inch side, each side represents } of a statute mile, scale z5455, and it is designed that this scale should be generally used in sketching. Where necessary, however, to depart from it, the sketches should be of a scale sj55, gotu0> suiss, &e., the sides of the squares respectively representing 3!5, +!5, 4, statute mile, as shall be found necessary, the scale by which the sketch is made being marked on the page containing it. The direction of the magnetic meridian of the sketch (running longitudinally down the page, or taking the direction of the other sides of the square, as shall be most convenient at different times) will also be noted on each page, and the magnetic variations recorded in the field-book with each day’s work. The work of the day will be made up in camp at night with ink, and will be transferred by the draughtsman to the general map, scale ;zy2s00- GENERAL ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDITION. 1. The expedition is in charge of Isaac I. Stevens, governor of the Territory of Washington. 2. There will be two main parties in prosecuting the work. One party, under the immediate direction of Governor Stevens, will proceed from the Mississippi river, and surveying rapidly the intermediate country, will reach as early as practicable the Rocky mountains, and examine all the passes to ascertain the most practicable one. The second party, under the command of Brevet Captain George B. McClellan, will organize at Puget sound, or on the Columbia, and operate for a similar purpose in the Cascade range of mountains. The partie: °°’ operate in 4 GENERAL ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDITION. the mountains until they are thoroughly explored, or till driven away by the snow, when they will be applied, with probably a somewhat reduced organization, to the survey of the inter- mediate region. To insure unity in the entire operation, Governor Stevens, as soon as the eastern party has been put to work on the Rocky mountains, will advance rapidly with a small reconnoitring force to meet Captain McClellan and arrange the entire operations. For more full information as to the organization of the expedition and character of the survey, see the printed instructions of the Secretary of War. 3. All officers detailed on the survey are on topographical duty, and will in the field receive one dollar per day. 4, Lieutenant Rufus Saxton, jr., is the acting assistant quartermaster and commissary of the expedition. His most important duty as such is, as early as practicable to cross the isthmus, and establish a depot of provisions at the Flathead village of St. Mary’s, just west of the Rocky mountains, and then crossing the mountains by the Blackfoot trail, meet the eastern party at Fort Benton, at the sources of the Missouri river. 5. Till he joins the main party, Lieutenant Cuvier Grover will act as commissary and quarter- master for the eastern party. 6. Under the instructions of the Secretary of War, the administrative branches of the service will bear all the expenses of the army portion of the expedition. The appropriation for the survey will be chargeable with the pay, subsistence and transportation of the civilians employed as a scientific corps, and their assistants, with instruments and collections. 7. Each officer and scientific man of the expedition will keep a daily journal, noting every- thing worthy of observation of a general character. These journals will be deemed a part of the results of the expedition, will be turned over as a part of its archives, and will be made use of in preparing the report. This is not intended to preclude copies being taken and published by the writer, after the publication of the report and proceedings of the expedition. 8. Whilst every effort will be made to render the expedition in all its parts effective, the most rigid economy is enjoined. Transportation is not only expensive but cumbersome. Personal baggage must be reduced to the smallest practicable amount. Attendants and animals to be kept at a minimum. Great care must be taken in matters of account, particularly in the divi- sion of the expenses between the survey and administrative branches of the services. 9. The clerk and disbursing agent is Isaac F. Osgood. He will keep an account of books and instruments, taking receipts therefor whenever practicable. They will be turned over to him when not wanted for further use. 10. Professor Spencer F, Baird is the naturalist of the expedition. ‘The naturalists and col- lectors, for full information in reference to their duties, are referred to his printed notes prepared expressly for this expedition, and his printed directions prepared for the Smithsonian Institu- tion. The collections will all be sent to him in Washington for the preparation of that portion of the report. 11. Dr. John Evans is the geologist of the expedition; and the geologists and collectors are referred to his printed paper for valuable suggestions in reference to that interesting and almost unexplored region in which the expedition will operate. 12. For instructions in reference to meteorological matters, see printed instructions, 13. For full information and instructions in reference to the topographical and railway survey, reference will be had to the printed instructions. 14, For magnetic and astronomical instructions, reference will be had to the written paper of the instructions. 15. Mr. Stanley is appointed the artist of the expedition. For valuable suggestions in con- nexion with this and other branches of the work, see a written paper prepared by him, which will serve as a basis of instructions. : 16, Whilst great care will be taken to assign each man to his special and appropriate duty, INSTRUCTIONS FOR METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 5 all are desired to inform themselves in reference to the general objects and results of the expe- dition, and do all they can to forward the several special operations. This is the more important, as parties will be frequently subdivided, and several duties thus be, of necessity, thrown upon the same individual. Sr. Louis, May 21, 1853. My Dear Sr: If it would be a possible thing for you to prepare a brief popular notice of the “‘Mauvaises Terres’’ to go into my preliminary report, I shall be glad. That report I mean to send from Puget sound, about the 15th of December, and your notes I should want a month earlier. I hope the artist will prove equal to his duties, and that with his assistance you will be able not only to make sketches of the bad lands, but a tolerable survey, which can be incorporated into our general map. You will easily connect it with the Missouri river by your two lines to Fort Pierre and Fort Union. At Fort Union, should I leave before your arrival, I will leave word as to the two routes I shall take, with the probable time of being at Fort Benton. I hope I shall not fail to meet you before you cross the mountains. Truly yours, ISAAC I, STEVENS. Cannot you, in the form of a journal, have a notice which will answer as a preliminary notice. And I would suggest that if, at Fort Benton, you could let me have your journal, with all your sketches and topography, the artist and draughtsman of the expedition could at once prepare them, with other matter, for publication. Mr. Joun Evans, Geologist, St. Louis. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. PROGRAMME. 1. Permanent posts for one year, to be kept up for a longer period if additional appropria- tions are made. 2. Parties in the field to be continued six months; the permanent posts a result of their labor. 3. At permanent posts will be barometrical and hygrometrical observations; a!so, quantities of rain and snow will be carefully observed; also, observations as to wind and storms. 4. Parties in the field will all observe for temperature, wind, and storms. Some four main parties will use the barometer, and, if practicable, make observations as to rain and moisture. Aneroids to be used for detailed work. Norse.—The aurora borealis, temperature of hot springs, &c., will be carefully observed, both at posts and by field parties. 5. Permanent posts,—Four main posts: 1, Puget sound; 2, Columbia barracks; 8, the Flathead village of St. Mary’s; 4, Fort Benton; and three posts of second order: 5, Fort Colville or Okinakane; 6, Fort Wallah-wallah; 7, the British trading post at the debouche of the Marias Pass; and five winter posts: 8, in the Blackfoot trail; 9, in the Marias Pass; 10, in the intermediate pass; 11, 12, two passes in the Cascade range. Nore.—The above programme of posts is designed to indicate what it is desirable to accom- plish. Circumstances may require changes in it and a reduction of the scale. INSTRUCTIONS FOR METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS, Norr.—These instructions have been drawn up by Lorin Blodget, Esq., under the direction of the Smithsonian Institution. 6 INSTRUCTIONS FOR METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. EN ROUTE OBSERVATIONS. Observe all the instruments at every halt of the party. Observe the barometer and thermometer at every point of considerable elevation or depres- sion, and at every point of abrupt change of climate in passing a mountain range. Observe at some certain hour, whenever possible, and not at points, between hours. Take the temperature of large springs and streams en route, and of the earth, when practicable, at one foot below the service. Measure every fall of rain during a halt, whether partial or com- plete, as in starting or halting during rain. Enter all observations precisely as taken, with proper note of locality, circumstances, &c. Special parties from a camp to determine heights must arrange hours for simultaneous baro- metric observations, and compute heights by the compared observations. Measure the amounts of rain, at different heights, when it may be done in surveys. CAMP OBSERVATIONS, Observe all instruments in camp hourly, when the force is sufficient; bi-houwrly, at the even hours, with less force; three times at 7 a. m., 2 p. m., and 9 p. m., with the least camp force. Observe the barometer simultaneously with any party leaving camp, or known to be taking elevations near. Camp and field observations to be made in the blank-book forms. Refer to the directions on the monthly blanks. POST OBSERVATIONS. Observe all instruments at 7 a. m., 2 p. m., and 9 p.m. Ifa few more can be taken, observe at sunrise, 9a. m.,and6p.m. If sufficient force can be applied, give night observations at 12 p.m., 2 a. m., and 4 a. m., and hourly observations during the day. Use the blank books for hourly observations, and the sheet forms for the less numbers and the monthly results. Observe extremes of temperature and of barometer whenever they occur differing materially from the regular observations. INSTRUMENTS. Barometers.—Use the open cistern or Alexander’s barometer for a standard; the syphon and Wurdemann’s for common field-work; and the aneroid for difficult surveys only, and where great accuracy is not required. Compare all the others used with the standard, before leaving a post and on the return to the same. Adjust the float or tangent point of the open-cistern barometer carefully before each observa- tion. Fill the tube perfectly on taking the instrument down, by screwing up the bottom of the sack, or by inclining the tube in the Alexander’s barometer. The instrument remains perfect when a small vacuum gives a clear concussion in throwing the mercury to the end of the tube. Wurdemann’s steel barometer should not be completely filled after an observation; leave a globule of mercury, as large as a rifle-ball, in the short tube, to permit the expansion of the forcing it through the joints of the tube in the changes of temperature. A slight shock of the column should be felt on shaking the tube. , Adjust the aneroid barometer to the mercurial before each separate use of the aneroid, (by the screw at the back.) This form of barometer cannot be used for variations greater than one inch, or for a time beyond one day, without re-adjustment. Suspend all barometers vertically, for observation, and read the verniers from the top or apex of the convex surface of the column of mercury. All barometers, except the aneroid, must be carried by a man, and cannot be packed safely. MEMORANDA IN RELATION TO FIELD SKETCHES. 7 Thermometer.—Take the air temperature in the shade, and where the air circulates freely. Suspend the thermometer, and leave it a sufficient time for the purpose. Wet-bulb thermometer, or hygrometer.—Coat the bulb with very thin cotton or linen. If it is kept constantly wet, the observation may be instantly made; if not, wait five or ten minutes after wetting it. If the air is very still, fan it, or swing it until it falls as low as it will. Right degrees of difference shows a dry atmosphere; twelve degrees, very dry; no difference is com- plete saturation. Rain gauge.—Place the gauge in an open space, and sink it in the earth nearly to the level of the surface when practicable, at the beginning of every rain, and measure the amount when it ceases. One inch on the surface will measure fowr in the small part of the gauge. A foot-rule will give the amount, one inch deep being one-fourth or .25 on the surface; one-tenth of an inch being (.025) twenty-five thousandths. The small part of the gauge full gives three inches; the whole gauge four and 5 inches. (The gauge is 6 inches across the top, 3 inches in the tube; the tube is 12 inches high; the whole 15 inches high; the two inner capacities as one to four.) Measure snow as snow, and melted as water. Soft snow will measure in the gauge; dry snow should be caught in a box; melting as many superficial inches as the gauge contains. The general purpose of these observations should be kept in view by each observer as a guide beyond specific directions. That purpose is to make the best possible determination of heights and of the profile of the country; secondly, to get the utmost possible amount of definite know ledge relative to its climate. The mean and extreme temperature of each particular district for each month of the year ; the amount of rain and snow, and sum of rain and melted snow, for each month and each dis- trict; the contrast afforded in different districts and by the different mountain ranges; the comparison of the Pacific climates with those of the mountain valleys and the plains, and the comparison of both with those of the eastern United States. The determination of every fact which may bear upon its topography ; upon engineering in every district; upon adaptation to settlement and cultivation ; and upon its general salubrity. MEMORANDA IN RELATION TO SKETCHES IN NATURAL HISTORY, GEOLOGY, BOTANY, AND TO VIEWS OF SCENERY AND NATURAL OBJECTS. BY J. M. STANLEY, ARTIST OF THE EXPEDITION. 1. Asa general rule, all that is necessary in regard to the delineation of animals, birds, and reptiles, while on a journey, will be to make sketches of their attitudes and outlines, with- out going into any minute detail. This is less necessary for birds than for other mentioned reptiles, as frogs, toads, and salamanders, which ought always to be sketched while alive. Details can always best be supplied in the office. Neither is it necessary to make colored sketches, excepting of such species as are likely to fade after preservation. Birds, quadrupeds, insects, and shells will usually retain their color sufficiently. Reptiles, fishes, crustacea, and soft animals generally, and nearly all alcoholic specimens, fade more or less, and should have sketches of color made while alive, or immediately after death. These can be made on the outlines of the natural attitude, but no care need be bestowed in details of drawings, as these will be made anew. Sometimes it will be sufficient to write on the sketch of outline the names of colors corresponding to different areas of the body. Similar sketches of colors may be made for flowers of evanescent tints. Sketches of entire trees of the different species will be highly interesting, as communicating information otherwise indescribable. Fossils, of course, need not be drawn, except when of such size as to prevent their being 8 INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAGNETIC OBSERVATIONS. brought along. Sketches of geological formations, rock exposures, &c., may frequently be made to great advantage. When possible, the subject of the sketch should always be brought along, and a corresponding number made to indicate the relation of the two. 2. Sketches of Indians should be made and colored from life, with care to fidelity in com- plexion as well as feature. In their games and ceremonies, it is only necessary to give their characteristic attitudes, with drawings of the implements and weapons used, and notes in detail of each ceremony represented. It is desirable that drawings of their lodges, with their historical devices, carying, &c., be made with care. INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAGNETIC OBSERVATIONS. BY J. H. HILGARD, ASSISTANT U. 8. COAST SURVEY. A.—Observations with azimuth compass. These observations will be made by reading the magnetic azimuth of the sun, near rising or setting, and noting the time. An observation should be taken on each limb of the sun, and the mean used. The error of the chronometer must be known by a suitable observation for time. The sun’s true azimuth and resulting magnetic declination will be computed according to the printed form, B.— Observations with the magnetoneter and dip circle. 1. Observations of dip, declination, and relative horizontal intensity will be made daily, if practicable. 2. One set of observations of dip, without reversal of poles, will be made with each needle whenever time permits, and will be recorded-in the printed form, At convenient stations, at intervals of four or five weeks, the connection depending on the reversal of poles will be deter- mined by four sets of observations with reversal, with each needle. The dip circle may be placed in the magnetic meridian by means of the magnetic bearing of some object, determined by the azimuth compass. 3. Observations of declinations will be made and computed according to the form prepared for that purpose. The zero of the collimator magnet will be determined once a week by inversals. The observation of true azimuth may be made on the sun, or any star near rising or setting. 4, The observations of relative horizontal intensity will be made by vibrating one or both of the larger magnets in the vibration apparatus, and observing the time of 200 vibrations. The largest are of vibration should not exceed 2°; observations of deflection, for attaining the magnetic moment of the vibrating magnets, will be made once a month, in connexion with the observations of vibration by deflecting one of the shorter magnets with the magnets used in vibrating ; the observations being made and recorded strictly according to the printed form, These sets of deflections should be observed with each magnet, at distances no less than 1.5 feet from the deflected magnet. 5, The observations of horizontal intensity cannot be reduced to absolute measure, until the moments of inertia of the vibrating magnets, (with their stirrups and suspension,) designated by K in the formula, are determined, This is done by vibrating them loaded with a ring, the moment of inertia of which K is known by its dimension and weight, Both inertia rings should be used for this purpose, and at least five series of vibrations, with and without rings, should be observed with each magnet. These observations, as well as those for the temperature, co-eflicient gy, may be made during the ensuing winter. They may be made in a room, and are not influenced by local attraction. MEMORANDA IN REFERENCE TO THE NATURAL HISTORY OPERATIONS. 9 6. Great care will be observed to place the magnets in their proper positions in the cases, and not to touch them with iron or steel. The observations must be made ata distance of at least 300 paces from the wagons, to avoid the influence of the iron tires. Observers will care- fully divest their clothing of all substances having magnetic attraction, MEMORANDA IN REFERENCE TO THE NATURAL HISTORY OPERATIONS. PREPARED BY 8. F. BAIRD, UNDER THE DIRECTION OF THE SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION. The general principles to be observed in making collections of natural history in a new country, or one previously unexplored, is to collect everything which may present itself, from time to time, subject to the convenience or practicability of transportation. The number of specimens to be secured will, of course, depend upon the dimensions, and the variety of form or condition caused by the different features of age, sex, or season. Where a small part only of the specimens collected can be taken along, such species should be selected as are least likely to be procured in other localities or at other opportunities. Among these may be mentioned the reptiles, fishes, soft insects, &c.; in fact, all such as require alcohol for their preservation. Dried specimens, as skins, can be procured with less difficulty, and are likely to be brought in by persons not specially interested in scientific pursuits. The description of various processes, to be employed in the collection and preservation of speci- mens of different kinds, will be found detailed at sufficient length in the ‘‘ Directions’’ published by the Smithsonian Institution, and in the Admiralty Manual of Scientific Enquiry. In collecting specimens of any kind, it will be important to fix, with the utmost precision, the localities where found. This is especially desirable in reference to the fishes, which occupy a very intimate relation to the waters in which they live. The smaller quadrupeds, of the size of a mouse, may be preserved entire in alcohol. Larger kinds should be skinned, and the skins thrown into alcohol, or coated inside with arsenic and dried. The latter course may be indicated for species larger than a prairie dog or hare. The skulls of the small kinds may be left in the skins; those of the larger should be removed, taking care to attach some common mark by which they may be again brought together. Large animals, of the size of a wolf and above, may, for greater convenience, be skinned after the method pur- sued by butchers, by skinning the legs down to the toes, and cutting off at that point. The skins need not be sewed up, as is directed for the smaller kinds, but rolled up into bales, after applying an abundance of arsenie and drying. It will be very important to procure the skeletons, and, at all events, the skulls, of all the species of animals, in sufficient numbers to include all the variations of age and sex. These may be roughly prepared by cutting off the flesh and drying in the sun. As the expedition will pass through the breeding-ground of many species of birds whose nidi- fication and eggs are not known, attention should be paid to securing abundant specimens of the nests and eggs. As far as possible the skin of the bird to which each set of eggs may belong should be secured, and have a mark attached common to it and the egg. The larger snakes should be skinned, as indicated in the ‘‘Directions,’’ as thereby they will occupy much less space than otherwise. The smaller specimens preserve entire, together with the lizards, salamanders, and small frogs. All of these that can be caught should be secured and preserved. The head, legs, with feet, the tail, in fact the entire skin of turtles, may be preserved in alcohol ; the soft parts then extracted from the shell, which is then to be washed and dried, Every stream, and, indeed, many localities in each stream, when passable, should be explored for fishes, which are to be preserved as directed in the pamphlet. For these, as well as the other alcoholic collections, the lino bags will be indispensable. 2f 10 MEMORANDA IN REFERENCE TO THE NATURAL HISTORY OPERATIONS, All the alcohol used should be supplied with tartar emetic. This, besides adding to its pre- servative powers, will remove any temptation to drinking it on the part of unscrupulous per- sons. Insects can, with the exception of lepideptera, be readily preserved in alcohol ; crabs and small shells may likewise be treated in the same manner. The specimens from each locality should be kept entirely separate. This can readily be done by means of the lino bags. The locality of the specimens may be marked with a red or black pencil on the outside, or written with ink on a piece of parchment and dropped inside. The ink should be perfectly dry before being wetted. Larger specimens may have the parchment label tied to some part without enclosure in the bags. As the instructions contained in the ‘‘ Directions’ are not sufficiently minute in regard to plants, it will be necessary to go here into some detail. The portfolios provided are intended to receive the plants as collected. About forty or fifty sheets of the paper should be put into the portfolio on starting out on an excursion. Put the specimens of each species in a separate sheet as fast as gathered from the plant, taking a fresh sheet for each additional species. On returning to camp, place these sheets (without changing or distributing the plants) between the brown drying-papers in the press, and draw the straps tight enough to produce the requisite pressure. The next day the driers may be changed, and those previously used laid in the sun to dry. This to be continued until the plants are perfectly dry. If paper and transportation be limited, several specimens from the same locality may be com- bined in the same sheet after they are dry. Throw into each sheet a slip of paper having a number or locality written on it correspond- ing with a list kept in a memorandum book. Record the day of the month, locality, size, and character of the plant, color of flower, fruit, &c. If the stem is too long, double it or cut it into lengths. Collect, if possible, half a dozen specimens of each kind. In the small specimens, collect the entire plant so as to show the root. It will not be possible to collect minerals, fossils, and geological specimens in very great quantity of large dimensions. The fossils selected should be as perfect as possible, and especial care should be paid to procuring the bones and teeth of vertebrate animals. Of the minerals and rocks, specimens as large asa hickory-nut will, in most cases, be suflicient for identification. All facts relating to the habits and peculiarities of the various species of animals should be carefully recorded in the note-book, especially those having relation to the peculiarities of the season of reproduction, &c. The accounts of hunters and others should also be collected, as much valuable information may thus-be secured. The colors of the reptiles and fishes when alive should always be given. ? MEMORANDUM OF APPARATUS FOR MAKING COLLECTIONS IN NATURAL HISTORY, SUPPLIED TO THE SEVERAL PARTIES OF MAJOR I, I. STEVENS. : 1. Two leather panniers, supplied with back-strap for throwing across a mule. One of these is intended to contain the copper kettles, and their included alcohol, together with the nets and other apparatus; the other to hold the botanical apparatus, skins of animals, minerals, &c. 2. Two copper keliles in one of the panniers, to contain the alcohol for such specimens as require this mode of preservation, viz: reptiles, fishes, small quadrupeds, most insects, and all soft invertebrates. The alcohol, if over eighty per cent., should have one-fourth of water added. 3. An iron wrench, to loosen the screw-caps of the copper kettles, when too tight to be man- aged by hand, 4. Two India rubber bags, one for each kettle. These are intended to be inflated inside of the kettles, and by displacing the alcohol cause it to rise to the edge of the brass cup, and thus DIRECTIONS FOR THE MINERALOGICAL AND GEOLOGICAL EXAMINATIONS, iL) fill the kettle. Unless this be done, and any unoccupied space thus filled up, the specimens will be washed against the sides of the vessel and much injured. 5. Small bags made of lino, of different sizes, and open at one end. These are intended, in the first place, to separate the specimens of different localities from each other; and, in the second place, to secure them from mutual friction, or other injury. The number or name cor- responding to the locality is to be marked on the outside with red chalk, or written with ink on a slip of parchment and dropped inside. The specimens are then to be placed in the bag, a string tied around the open end, and the bag thrown into alcohol. he ink of the parchment must be dry before the slip is moistened in any way. N. B.—Fishes and reptiles over five or six inches in length should have a small incision made in the abdomen, to facilitate the introduction of the alcohol, Larger snakes and small quadrupeds may be skinned, and the skins placed in alcohol. 6. Led chalk pencils, for marking the bags. 7. Parchment, to serve as labels for the bags. This may also be cut into labels and fastened by strings to such specimens as are not suited for the bags. 8. Small seines, for catching fishes in small streams. The two ends should be fastened to brails or sticks, (hoe-handles answer well,) which are taken in the hands of two persons, and the net drawn both up and down stream. - Fishes may often be caught by stirring up the gravel or small stones in a stream, and drawing the net rapidly down the current. Bushes or holes alone the banks may be enclosed by the nets, and stirred so as to drive out the fishes, which usually lurk in such localities. 9. Casting-net. This is sent only to the permanent station. 10. Alcohol. About five gallons to each travelling party. This should be about eighty per cent. in strength, and medicated by the addition of one ounce of tartar emetic to one gallon of alcohol, to prevent its being surreptitiously drunk. 11. Arsenic, in two-pound tea canisters. This may be applied to the moist skins of birds and quadrupeds, either dry or mixed with alcohol. 12. Yartar emetic, for medicating the alcohol as above. 13. Cotton, for stuffing out the heads of birds and mammals. To diminish the bulk, but little should be put into the bodies of animals. The skulls of the quadrupeds had better be removed from the skins, but carefully preserved. 14. Paper, for wrapping up the skins of birds and small quadrupeds, each separately. The paper supplied for botanical purposes will answer for this. 15. Butcher knife, scissors, needles and thread, for skinning and sewing up animals, 16. Blank labels of paper for marking localities, sex, &c., and tying to the legs of the dried skins. 17. Portfolio for collecting plants. 18. Press for drying plants between the blotting paper. Pressure is applied by straps. 19. Very absorbent paper for drying plants. 20. Stijfer paper for collecting plants in the field. The same paper to be used for wrapping skins of birds and quadrupeds, as well as minerals and fossils. 21. Small bottles for collecting and preserving insects. 22. Geological hammer. 23. Fine shot for birds. About No. 9 is most convenient for the purpose. Wasuineton, April 20, 1853. Sm: In compliance with your request, I have the honor to submit, briefly and simply, a few suggestions for the guidancé of your several corps, such as in my judgment will best serve to develop the mineral and agricultural resources of theinteresting but comparatively unexplored region of country assigned to you for examination, 12 DIRECTIONS FOR THE MINERALOGICAL AND GEOLOGICAL EXAMINATIONS, The best mode of effecting these objects would be, in the first place, to collect sufficient data for the construction of a geological section and map, showing the order and succession of rocks from the upper Mississippi river to the Pacific ocean. To accomplish this object, careful exam- ination should be made of every exposure of rock in place on the route; the dip, or inclination from the horizontal; thickness of each stratum of rock exhibited; relative position; and, so far as practicable, the lithological character noted. Where outbursts of granite or other igneous rocks occur, through the stratified rock, observe the general range of the volcanic action; also notice the direction of veins of quartz or other minerals. Specimens for analysis should be collected at all important points. ‘Two inches by one of surface, and half an inch in thickness, will answer this purpose. Careful barometrical observation should be made, not only of the elevations, but at regular intervals, say six times a day, along the whole extent of country. The small streams and rivers afford the best opportunity for geological investigations. In all cases where the rocks are fossiliferous, collect two or three well preserved specimens; these would better determine the age and true position of the rocks than weeks of investigation without them ; one or two perfect specimens being far more valuable than a dozen that have been rubbed or fractured. From the Sioux river to the falls of the Missouri, on both sides of the Missouri, you pass through the cretaceous and tertiary formations, perhaps as rich in fossil remains as any other region in the country, or it may be in the world. Microscopic organic deposits, recent and fossil, are occasionally met with. These infusorial remains are sometimes found in layers of considerable thickness, and are well worthy of careful investigation. These rocks are silicious and calcareous, usually of a yellowish tinge and some- what friable, and have been found in the banks of the Missouri, and in the beds of several of its small tributaries. Small specimens should be collected. All discoveries of valuable ores, or useful minerals, clays, marls, saline and chalybeate springs, &c., should be located, when practicable, by the distance and direction from some prominent geographical feature of the country, as mountain, river, &c., and specimens be col- lected for analysis. In connexion with this subject it is highly important that a series of observations be made on the dip and intensity of the needle, as intimately connected with the geological and mineralogical character of that region of country, and as likely to lead to results interesting to the cause of general science. Note carefully at all times whether there are such indications of valuable minerals as would render expedient a further examination. All specimens of rocks, minerals, and fossils, should be wrapped in strong paper, with a label of the locality inside written in ink, and packed sufticiently tight, either in bags or boxes, to prevent rubbing. Crumbling fossils may be preserved by soaking them in a thin solution of glue or gum arabic. Specimens of soil for analysis should be collected, and the sub-soil noted, in prairie and bottom land, throughout the entire route; at least on every change of surface rocks, as you pass over the various geological formations, from the magnesian limestone and lower sandstone of the St. Peter’s river, through the vast drift region extending to the Sioux river of the Mis- souri, through the various chalk marls, sandstones, plastic clays and slaty clays of the creta- ceous formations, the limestone coarse conglomerates and silicious clays of the tertiary period, on to the comparatively fertile strip of land caused by the decomposition of the older limestones of the Rocky mountains and the vegetable matter washed down from their various slopes, to the basaltic soils of Middle Oregon, occupying three hundred miles in extent, and, crossing the Cascade range of mountains, to the tertiary soils of Western Oregon. Lach of these soils, so different in their constituents, produces different grasses, wild flowers, and trees, and is more or less adapted to various agricultural purposes. Hence the vast importance of a careful analysis of these soils in advance of the settlement of the country. Bags, made of ticking, holding from a pint to a pint and a half, are best suited to a preservation of these specimens. . LETTER TO. THE SECRETARY OF WAR. 13} They should be numbered, and a corresponding number entered in the note-book, with a par- ticular description of the localities. Tt will not be necessary to make geological collections, except of soils, until you reach Traverse des Sioux, as the exploring parties of Dr. Owen have already determined with suffi- cient accuracy the geology of that district. But after crossing the extensive drift region before alluded to (where it is only important to notice the underlying rocks) you come into the rich fossiliferous regions of the cretaceous and tertiary formations. Here it is of great importance to make careful geological sections of the rocks exposed, and to collect all the fossil remains met with, in order to determine with greater accuracy the boundary of these formations, and as far as practicable of their various members. As before stated, they extend to near the falls of the Missouri, and this is the only portion of the route where it is particularly desirable that extensive geological collections should be made, A1l specimens collected in this region you are requested to deposit at Forts Union and Benton, carefully packed in boxes for shipment down the Mis- sourl river, and directed to An interesting feature in the geology of the upper Missouri river country is the great lignite bed, commencing about latitude 47°, and showing itself at various points on the Missouri river for seven hundred miles. In this vast prairie country, almost wholly destitute of timber, it is important that the quality and extent of this coal bed be determined. Specimens, therefore, should be collected, both of the coal and the rocks associated with it. Special attention is directed to the geological formations along the base of the Rocky mount- ains, both east and west of the main range. The age of these rocks has been a matter of some doubt; and it is highly important, if any of them are fossiliferous, that collections be made. The Bitter Root range of mountains is perhaps the most interesting portion of your route for mineralogical research. Icollected here rich specimens of iron, copper, and other valuable and useful ores; and in some portions of the range the rocks bear considerable analogy to the talcose and other allied rocks of the gold-bearing regions of California. As you proceed northward a considerable change occurs in the geological features of the country. Galena, of good quality, has been found near Fort Colville, north of the British line. If these seams extend into our own territory, it would prove a discovery of great value, and it is therefore worthy of investigation. West of the Cascade range of mountains, on the way to and from Puget sound, your parties will pass and repass through the great coal or lignite region of Washington Territory. The beds are of greater thickness and better quality than have been found in the same geological formation in any other country, and may prove of great value. It is my intention to spend several months in the exploration of that section, but the incidental information obtained by your numerous corps might be of great advantage in developing the extent and value of these deposits. Very respectfully, JOHN EVANS, Geologist of the Expedition. Gov. Isaac I. Stevens. Camp Prerce, June 8, 1853. Sir: I reached St. Paul’s on Friday evening last (May 27,) and the next morning went to the camp which had been established by Captain Gardiner, some three miles from Fort Snelling, west of the Mississippi river; and which, in honor of the President, I have named Camp Pierce. The camp was established by Captain Gardiner on the 24th of May, the day after the arrival of the full list of mules, one hundred and seventy-two in number; and on the 25th ultimo the 14 REPORT ON RECONNAISSANCE OF UPPER MISSISSIPPI. whole expedition was brought together, with the exception of Mr. Stanley, the artist, Mr. Osgood, the disbursing agent, Mr. Evans and Mr. Kendall, two aids of the expedition, and myself. About one-half of the mules had never been broken, either in wagons, to pack, or saddle, and the remaining half were quite wild, and required much work to prepare them for service. In consequence of these difficulties, and there not having been engaged a sufficient number of teamsters, some delay has necessarily occurred in setting out. Captain Gardiner and Lieutenant Grover have been indefatigable in their exertions, and, considering the difficulties that have been encountered, great progress has been made. On Tuesday, (May 31,) the two civil engineers, Mr. Lander and Mr. Tinkham, were sent out with small parties to commence the survey of the railroad route. Their riding-mules, as well as all the riding-mules of the gentlemen of the party, have been broken by themselves with very little additional assistance, several of the younger members of the party having only succeeded in mastering their animals after having been thrown several times. Mr. Lander, the morning he set out, was thrown, and had his shoulder put out of joint. It was brought back by the main strength of three men, and he immediately set out at the head of his party. I refer to these facts to show the spirit of my command, and the promise thus given that all difficulties must disappear before the hardihood and the resolution thus exhibited. All this has been done in the midst of drenching rains. It has rained since Tuesday, till to-day. Mr. Lander had previously made a reconnaissance of the several crossings of the Mississippi, for the details of which I refer you to the enclosed copy of his report. I also enclose the instructions given to Mr. Lander and Mr. Tinkham, in relation to their respective duties. To-day I sent off a small train of three wagons and twenty-four pack-mules to a depot and station which I propose to establish west of the Mississippi river, near the Sauk rapids. The mules were the wildest of the whole number, and were packed for the first time, yet they reached their camping ground, setting out at 11 o'clock, a distance of six miles, in season to picket the animals before sundown. ‘To-morrow I shall send off a small train, and on Monday the whole camp will be in motion. Proceeding with the astronomical and magnetic party, I shall take the steamer at St. Anthony, and reach the depot west of the Sauk rapids on Tuesday evening, and there estab- lish a station, which, with the observations at this station, will connect with Nicollet’s survey, and give a good base on the Mississippi river. I shall reach.the depot in season to make arrangements for the whole command to cross the river, and at the same time be in easy com- munication with Mr. Tinkham and Mr. Lander. The whole command will, I trust, be on the west side of the Mississippi on Saturday next, June 11, and on Monday I hope to be able to push rapidly into the interior. Lieutenants Du Barry and Grover have been indefatigable in preparing themselves for their duties, practising at all the observations and computations. They will be able, on leaving the Mississippi, to take command of sub-parties, and make in person all the observations. Before leaving this depot, I will again communicate with the department, and state more specifically how I shall organize the several parties, particularly those under Lieutenants Du Barry and Grover. I am, very truly and respectfully, your obedient servant, ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory, in Command of Expedition. Hon. Jerrerson Davis, ' Secretary of War, Washington, D. C. St. Paut’s, May 22, 1853. Srr: In receiving your instructions in regard to a reconnaissance of the upper Mississippi for a railroad crossing, I was directed to view this subject with reference to a feasible connexion REPORT ON RECONNAISSANCE OF UPPER MISSISSIPPI. 15 with Lake Superior; to choose a point which should not interfere with steamboat navigation, and one that would occupy a favorable position for joining the main line east. With these quite definite instructions to guide my examinations, I have made an actual reconnaissance of the river from St. Paul’s to Fort Ripley, and beg leave to submit the following report: At the ferry near falls of St. Anthony, at the rapids near mouth of Sauk river, at several points for two miles above these rapids, at the ferry near Swan river, and at Little Falls, I have found locations for crossing the river with a railroad bridge. The first of these, near the falls of St. Anthony, is about eight hundred (800) feet. It does not occupy.so favorable a posi- tion, in regard to a connexion with Lake Superior, as either of the other points. The crossing ismuch greater in length, and the quantity of masonry larger than at those farther north. The cost of this masonry is excessive, from the necessity of bringing the material for construc- tion from Sauk rapids. The distance to ‘‘Dead Colt Hillock’’—a point near the course of survey—is not less by this crossing than by passing over the fine gravel country east of the Mississippi to Sauk rapids. The water is deep, and the current much more swift than at any of the other points. Passing west, the country is thickly wooded, springy, entirely impassable for wagons, and inducing additional cost in grubbing and culvert masonry. I deem this crossing the least favorable of those I have examined. LHighty miles north of the falls of St. Anthony, at the head of steamboat navigation, and near the mouth of Sauk river, occur several favorable crossings, nearly similar in character. These, with the routes connected, should at some future period be subjected to a careful survey; the limited time allowed for the present examination necessarily confining my attention to reconnaissance. The first of these, near the mouth of Sauk river, is about five hundred (500) feet. By encoun- tering the rapid current near the falls, excellent foundation for bridge masonry can be obtained upon the granite ledge of the section. Within two (2) miles are five other points, none exceed- ing six hundred (600) feet in length. The adjoining ledge furnishes granite of suitable quality for heavy masonry. I have estimated the cost of a bridge at Sauk rapids, for a road-bed of twenty (20) feet, as follows: 500 feet of Howe's truss, at twenty-five dollars ($25)..........ccccsecescseceenecnees $12,500 1,353 cubic yards of bridge masonry, at twelve dollars ($12)...........cceeeeeeeee 16,236 VE pei lied PTO UTE GLO MRE Y eset cece ce aleieds cle saleable succeeeetedeaveetinhe Wie, \leddceubiones 1,000 29,736 Five miles farther north, near the mouth of river Watab, occurs a crossing four hundred (400) feet in length, with excellent foundations of granite ledge. This crossing is so situated as to induce cutting of about twenty (20) feet in hard material, upon the east shore of the river ; say twenty thousand yards at forty (40) cents, or $8,000. The adjacent ledge not being of suitable quality for building, the material for masonry must be brought from Sauk rapids. The location is neither so feasible of approach, nor in facility of getting west, as that at Sauk rapids, although the passage of the river is shorter, and the current not so swift. Twenty-four miles north of Watab, near the mouth of Swan river, is a crossing four hundred and fifty (450) feet in length. It has no advantages over those at Sauk rapids. The abutment foundations must be obtained by piling; pier foundations adjusted by coffer-dam or winter crib- work. The current is not swift, the water about eight feet in depth. Four miles north of this point, at the island near Little Falls, is a very fine crossing of three hundred and twenty-five (825) feet. Four wing abutments and a slight increase of truss will be required, from the destructible nature of the ledge foundation, which is slate rock, strongly impregnated with iron, and affected by the atmosphere. Two short bridges would be necessary—one, of one hundred and twenty- five (125) feet, crossing the east branch of the river to island ; thence embankment of one hundred 16 INSTRUCTIONS TO CIVIL ENGINEER. and fifty (150) feet; thence bridge span of two hundred (200) feet, over main channel of the river. The actual width of the main channel here is one hundred and seventy-five (175) feet, and the whole crossing the best upon the Mississippi from St. Paul’s to Fort Ripley. The boulders of the hill-sides in this vicinity afford good granite for light masonry. The magazine at Fort Ripley is built of these boulders; but they are not abundant, neither do they furnish blocks of sufficient size for exposed bridge abutments. ‘The material for this purpose must be brought from Sauk rapids, thirty-two miles below. The country on the east side of the Missis- sippi, from St. Paul’s to Little Falls, presents facilities for railway construction I have never seen exceeded; one hundred and twenty miles of level, or slightly rolling gravel plain, supersedes all necessity for ballasting, and affords peculiar advantages for forming an embankment road- bed—the very best mode of construction for guarding against the snows and frosts of a northern climate. Passing west from Little Falls, I find no serious difficulty to encounter over a route which had been represented to me as very severe. The country, to be sure, is broken, the ground springy, and the cost of moving material will evidently exceed that of the line east of the Mis- sissippi. There is a greater quantity of earth to be excavated, and quite an increase in the amount of culvert masonry; still the surface presents a favorable aspect for good alignment. No cut will exceed twenty feet. There is no appearance of ledge, and by exercising some degree of care in the location an excellent route can be obtained. I have no knowledge of this line extending beyond Long Prairie. It is represented to me as broken into sharp ridges, very swampy, and quite thickly wooded. Summing up this matter, it seems evident that the proper course of the survey would be from St. Paul’s up the eastern shore of the Mississippi to Sauk rapids, thence near the Red River trail towards the head-waters of the Sauk. Sufficiently reliable information is afforded to prove to us that a very excellent route can thus be secured. The passage of the Mississippi is made at a point that does not interfere with steamboat navi- gation. It affords all necessary advantages to a communication with Lake Superior, is in a favorable position as regards an eastern connection, and will thus insure the proper direction of capital in the location of private lines. The crossing at Little Falls is nearer a direct route from the Pacific to Lake Superior, and therefore worthy of serious notice; yet it is evident that the interests of private companies should not be neglected, and that those operations should be fostered which, in efforts to develop the resources of this rich inland country, will add their share to the importance of our great enterprise, and aid in bringing it to a successful termina- tion. Passing through a country already forward in vegetation, and presenting every facility for expediting progress of survey, the route at Sauk rapids is superior to all others in the fea- tures required by your letter of instructions. Submitting this result of my examinations, I remain, with respect, your obedient servant, F. W. LANDER. Gov. Isaac I. Srevens, Chief N. P. R. R. Exploring Expedition. Camp Pisree, May 31, 1853. Dear Sir: You will immediately proceed to St. Paul’s, and at once commence the survey of a railroad route, and proceed northward on the east side of the Mississippi river, crossing said river at the Sauk rapids, making a reconnaissance of the country over which you pass, and directing particularly your attention to the examination of the river crossings. At Sauk rapids you will direct your attention to the investigation of the best method of, and securing the means for, the crossing of the main party, which will follow in a few days. You are authorized to employ men, secure boats, and to procure the best means to accomplish this INSTRUCTIONS TO CIVIL ENGINEER. Ay object; and the arrangements which you make you will communicate to me at the earliest prac- ticable moment. From Sauk rapids you will continue your reconnaissances of the country westward, exam- ining the various routes. You are not confined to any specific route, but, keeping in mind the line over which the main train will pass, much is left to your own judgment. In the map of Nicollet, accompanying this, several probable routes are laid down: one cross- ing the Cheyenne river but once, and passing just south of the Miniwakan lake; a second crossing the river twice, and passing some twenty or thirty miles south of the lake; a third keeping at the headwaters of the southern tributaries of the same river, in the general direc- tion of Dead Colt Hiliock, and north of the Coteau des Prairies. All these routes, there is reason to believe, can be pursued, and they are referred to simply to call your attention to the magnitude and extent of the work of the expedition through that region. You will endeavor to keep me advised of your movements, and may expect me to join you before you have advanced far into the interior. You will give special attention to the several river crossings on the Red river trail, so far as it will be pursued by the main party, and will make such arrangements for the crossings as you may deem advisable. Endeavor to replace the two teamsters sent with your wagon to-day, and send them back to camp; send in all the good men you come across. Hngage none but hardy fellows to assist you, and such men as will be useful in the whole expedition, should their services be needed. Purchase the four-mule team at Fort Ripley, and have it at Sauk rapids for the main party, with two good teamsters. : Tam, very truly, &c., ISAAC I. STEVENS. F. W. Lanper, Esq. Camp Pierce, May 31, 1853. Dear Str: You have already received verbal instructions to take the field to-day and enter upon your duties as one of the associate civil engineers on the northern Pacific railroad explo- ration. The general course reconnoitred by your associate, Mr. Lander, east of the Mississippi river, from St. Paul’s to the crossing of the Mississippi above the Sauk rapids, will be pursued by you; and, whilst you will collect as much data in reference to the details of the construction as practicable, you will arrange the scale of it so that with your present force, with a few days’ experience, you will be able to make fifteen or twenty miles per day. You will connect the camp, and the magnetic and astronomical observations, with your route ; and at each camping-ground leave some mark, as a blazed tree, whereby future observations can be connected with your work. You will also note in your journal good points for camping, with brief notes as to grass, water, and wood for camp-fires. Keep up the sketches with care. The variation of the needle will be furnished in season. You will probably reach the Sauk rapids a day or two in advance of the main train, and will be able to make a rapid instrumental survey of the same. I have instructed Mr. Lander to make arrangements for the crossing at that point; and should the main body not reach you, you will cross the river without delay and work westward. Should you, on special occasions or for permanent services, find it necessary to engage more men, you are authorized to do so—recollecting that it will be necessary, so far as practicable, to reduce the scale of the work, abridging the quantity of the data, rather than to increase the force. A written report will be required, to include the crossing of the Mississippi; and I will sug- 3f 18 LETTER TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR, gest that, so far as practicable, it be simply your journal. It seems to me, that with a brief introductory memoir, it will be just the thing that is to be desired. Send to camp all the good men you find; we are very deficient in force. Yours, truly, ISAAC I. STEVENS. A. W. Tryxuam, Esq. Camp Davis, NEAR Sauk Raps, June 10, 1853. Srr: Having on Saturday and Sunday, June 4th and 5th, sent forward two small parties of wagons, and a party with the mountain howitzer and five dragoons, I broke up my camp on Lake Amelia (Camp Pierce) on Monday, June 6th, and sent the command forward in three parties: one under Lieutenant Grover, consisting of the astronomical, magnetic, and meteoro- logical party, were sent on the steamer that plies between St. Anthony and Sauk rapids, with directions to land on the west side of the Mississippi river, below the mouth of the Sauk river, one of its western tributaries, and, crossing the ford, to establish an astronomical, magnetic, and meteorological station on the Red river trail; the second, under Lieutenant Du Barry, con- sisting of Mr. Stanley, the artist of the expedition, Dr. Suckley, the surgeon and naturalist, Mr. Le Frambois, the guide, a sergeant and fourteen dragoons; the third consisting of the train in charge of Mr. Everett, the quartermaster and commissary clerk. I remained in St. Anthony until about noon of Tuesday, to secure the services of several voyageurs; and particularly of Pierre Boutineau, the great guide, and Menoc, the great hunter; in which I was successful. Taking a rapid conveyance, I pushed forward forty miles the same day, passing all the parties on the road, and reached Sauk rapids, a distance of seventy miles, on Wednesday, at 11 o’clock a.m. Lieutenant Grover landed as directed, on Tuesday evening, and being somewhat incom- moded by rains, did not establish his camp till yesterday. Yesterday afternoon I pushed forward with Boutineau, the guide, and reached the civil engineers, eighteen miles ahead, at Cold spring; in company with whom, towards night-fall, T rode to the crossing of Sauk river and back—eight miles. One bad place near the camp has been placed in good condition. There are two other bad places in the road, which I am con- fident can be made practicable for wagons in a few hours; and I think the civil engineers will be beyond the river Sauk to-day. I returned from the civil engineer camp to Camp Davis this morning, and shall in an hour go to the east side of the Mississippi river, at Sauk rapids, to make provision for the crossing of a portion of the train. Lieutenant Du Barry is hourly expected. The remainder of the train will hardly cross the river till Monday. We made very good observations of all kinds at Camp Pierce, and the promise is good here. The railroad examinations, pushed fifteen or twenty miles a day, are satisfactory. The artists have been much occupied, and in the natural history department we have made quite a col- lection. No delay shall occur here. The animals will not be pushed, but kept in motion. They are, generally, well broken—thanks to the spirit and determination of the command. I have not yet entirely arranged my plans; all I can do is to see what a day will bring forth, bringing to the duties of each day all that previous experience has suggested. I will write again as I leave the Red river trail, and will send in a more elaborate report. I am, very respectfully, your obedient servant, ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory, in Command of Expedition. Hon. Jerrerson Davis, Secretary of War. LETTER TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR. 19 Camp McCLELiaNnD, WEST SIDE OF CHEYENNE River, July 4, 1853. Sir: The train from Pembina and the Red river, on their way to St. Paul’s, passed the survey- ing party on the 2d instant, and I embrace the opportunity again to communicate with the department. My last letter, in regard to the progress of the expedition, was written on the eve of leaving Camp Davis, since which time we have made rapid progress into the interior. The command has now become thoroughly organized, with broken animals, and hardy willing men. I feel the utmost confidence in accomplishing the great objects of the expedition. Besides the difficult task of breaking-in wild animals, many too young for the service, and the still more difficult task of getting into working condition those run down in the operation, we have had to encounter bad roads, muddy sloughs, river crossings—consuming each an entire day—and drenching rains. But for a few days the weather has been good. To-day we shall reach the Maple river and enter upon the high rolling prairie. The worst portions of the road are gone over. The grazing is remarkably fine. Every man is now mounted, and we shall now make our regular marches of fifteen to twenty miles per day. But to return to Camp Davis. On the 12th of June I despatched Lieutenant Grover, with a picked party of some fifteen men, with instructions to reconnoitre carefully the country north and in the vicinity of White Bear lake, with the view of ascertaining the point where the expe- dition should leave the Red river tract, and indicating that it was desirable to run from that point north of Lake Traverse to the Dead Colt Hillock, and thence to the Yellowstone. The remainder of the party followed on the 13th, 15th, and 16th; and on the 23d the whole party was in camp at Pike lake, a few miles north of White Bear lake. Here we remained till Saturday, and made our final arrangements for the march to the Yellow- stone. Some inefficient men were sent home; and a detached party of nineteen picked men, two wagons, twenty-six mules, and four horses, under Lieutenant Grover, was organized to explore the line he was sent forward from Camp Davis to examine. He moved on the morning of the 23d, in fine spirits, determined to distinguish himself. I was then confident, and am still, that he will pass over a fine route. It is an almost irresistible inference, from the general course of the streams as laid down on Nicollet’s map. His instructions are to push forward to the Yellowstone, touching, if possible, the Missouri, to connect with Lieutenant Donelson’s survey. I moved also on the 23d with the main train, and crossed the Cheyenne early on Saturday morning, (July 2.) We have moved rapidly; one day making, to reach wood, a march of twenty-seven miles. We bridged the Wild Rice river, and found a good bridge on the Chey- enne, the work of our Red river friends. The train is now in motion, and I am behind to make up a mail, the last till I reach the Yellowstone. We shall cross the Cheyenne a second time a few miles north of Bald Hillock creek, and shall pass within fifteen or twenty miles of Miniwakan lake. Thence our course will be nearly straight. With my reconnoitring force I hope to cover a broad belt of country, connecting with Lieutenant Grover’s route. The accompanying sketch will show the char- acter of our work. It is all the result of careful observation. The work north of our route, on the Bois de Sioux, Wild Rice, and Red rivers, was done in a single day, by Mr. Adams, a young gentleman attached to the civil engincers’ party: that west of our present camp, on the Chey- enne, by Mr. Lander, one of my civil engineers, assisted by Mr. Adams and one man. Mr. Lander left this on Saturday afternoon, at four o’clock, and returned last evening a little after eight—riding eighty miles in twenty-eight hours, and carefully observing for all that distance. By a comparison with Nicollet’s map, it will be seen that the course of the Cheyenne at its southern bend is much out of the way, and I have determined to have its southern shore care- fully examined by Mr. Lander. He will accordingly start to-day, with Mr. Adams and four 20 LETTER TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR. picked men, on his duty; and he will be instructed carefully to explore the region along, and south and west of, the Cheyenne river, connecting, if possible, with Lieutenant Grover’s route. He has choice animals and spare horses for reconnoitring. I entertain no apprehensions as to hostile Indians. He will join me south of the Miniwakan lake. The sketch indicates the course of Lieutenant Grover, of my proposed course to the second crossing of the Cheyenne river, and the relative position of the two routes to the direct course from the Sauk crossing to the mouth of the Yellowstone. The country thus far is exceedingly favorable for a railroad. I am confident no grade to this point will be found of more than twenty feet. The Cheyenne is a great obstacle, and the indi- cations are very decided that the line must go south. I have indicated a practicable railroad route. Its cost, without equipment, will not exceed twenty thousand dollars per mile. No important deflection is made. The crossing of the Cheyenne at this point would cost, say one hundred thousand dollars. Twenty miles west, at the point A, not fifty thousand dollars. The line by Dead Colt Hillock will, I think, be better. But when I reach the Yellowstone and have Lieutenant Grover’s work before me, I shall be able to report more definitely on this portion of the route. I must make my acknowledgment for the promptitude and efficiency shown by the civil engi- neers, Mr. Tinkman and Mr, Lander, in the work on the railroad explorations. Very truly yours, ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor, &e., in Charge of Expedition. Hon. Jerrerson Davis, Secretary of War. Camp Cusntne, NEAR Fort Union, August 8, 1853. Srr: I have the honor to report to the department, that since the date of my last communi- cation at Camp McClelland, upon the Cheyenne river, the party has advanced with rapid marches up to this point, where we arrived at noon on August Ist. The detached party under Lieut. Grover, which was referred to in my communication as having been despatched by a southern route by the Dead Colt Hillock, arrived six days in advance of us, with information concerning the route of the most satisfactory character. The animals are all in fine condition; our marches the last nine days having exceeded an average of twenty miles, and but two are at this time unserviceable. The very short time to make up my mail at this time—as the steamer, which only arrived last evening, returns at noon to-day—will permit only the brief statement of our general success, reserving a full report until my arrival at Fort Benton. A broad belt of country has been thoroughly examined, the courses of Cheyenne river, and of the valley of the Mouse river, have been brought in by side reconnaissance, and excellent practicable routes for a railroad ascertained. From this point I shall move to-day for Fort Benton, which will be reached in twenty-five days. The command will be divided into two parties, one under my own supervision, with Lieutenant Grover in charge of the scientific details, taking the usually travelled road by Milk river, and the second under Lieutenant Donelson, pursuing a route some fifty miles to the northward, on which the most prominent landmark is the Cypress mountain, in which rise streams flowing into both the Saskatchewam and the Missouri rivers. I have secured excellent guides, by one of whom I am assured that he will lead us to a pass in the mountains through which the whole wagon train can be taken— a pass through which, from Fort Benton to the St. Mary’s village, an express train can move in four days, a pack train in seven, and a wagon train in fifteen days. Everything looks extremely favorable, and I doubt not in the least that by the last of September we shall have crossed the mountains. As regards the Indians, I take pleasure in reporting that we have met two large encampments of Assiniboins, by whom we have been received with unbounded hospi- LETTER TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR. 21 tality. In reference to the Blackfeet, whose country we are now about entering, I am assured by Mr. Culbertson, my special agent for that tribe, that they will receive us with open arms, and that no trouble need be apprehended. The necessary precautions will, of course, be taken to secure against attacks and loss of animals, but I can see no reason to apprehend the slightest trouble with any of the tribes to be met upon the route. The enclosed memorandum will give you a more full account of the details of the operations, and the enclosed sketch of a railroad route certainly practicable, at a cost probably not exceeding $40,000 per mile. It is certain that the two great key points of country are the valley of Mouse river and the region of the Bois des Sioux. The Mouse river is erroneously given on all the maps. It nowhere approaches the Missouri nearer than thirty or forty miles, and the pass over the Coteau is so gradual, and the whole valley is so open, that the ascent is scarcely observed. I must not fail particularly to advert to Lieutenant Donelson’s excellent survey of the Mis- souri river, as high as the boat has been navigated the present season, some one hundred and twenty miles above this point, and the numerous collections made by him on the route; and to a very extended reconnaissance of the White Harth river, and the Coteau de Missouri, during which, in nine days, he passed over a distance of two hundred and thirty-five miles. A more detailed account will be given hereafter. I shall from Fort Benton make report on the navigability of the Missouri, with suggestions for, and an estimate as to its improvement. T. 8S. Everett, Esq., the quartermaster and commissary clerk of the expedition, returns from this point to Washington, and will call on you personally, to give you information which I cannot embody in a report at this time. I am, sir, very respectfully, your most obedient servant, ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory. Hon. Jerrerson Davis, Secretary of War. N. B.—The memorandum I regret I cannot prepare in time, and shall have to refer you to Mr. Everett for additional particulars which cannot be found in this brief letter. Norruern Pacrric RamRoap ExpLoraTioN AND SuRVEY, Fort Benton, Upper Missouri, September 8, 1853. Str: We left Fort Union on the 9th of August, and pursued the Milk river line, abandoning the two lines contemplated in my letter of the 8th of August. The junction of the two parties was made at the Big Muddy river, and resulted from my inability to furnish proper transport- ation and the requisite force to the two parties. The train moved forward under my charge until the 24th of August, when with a small party, including Alexander Culbertson, Esq., the special agent among the Blackfeet Indians, and accompanied by two select detached parties under the respective directions of Lieut. Grover and Mr. Lander, I started in advance, and arrived here on the Ist instant. We found that the Missouri is much out of place on all the maps, and the Milk river still more so—flowing nearly due west. Up to this point, we have found the country entirely practicable for a railroad. Whichever pass in the mountains may be decided upon, the Milk River valley will furnish a good approach. Dr. Evans, geologist of the expedition, arrived here on the 5th instant, having made a com- plete and satisfactory examination of ‘‘Mauvaises Terres,’’ the country south of the Yellow- stone from the Black hills to the Missouri river, and north of the Missouri, between the Milk and Missouri rivers. ; 22 LETTER TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR. The main train reached here on the 6th instant, the animals in excellent condition, and the men all anxious to press forward to the mountains: the command is a unit, and none are desirous to turn back. Already are my parties ahead, examining the country between here and the mountains. Lieut. Grover, with a select party of seven men, started on the 5th to reconnoitre Cadotte’s Pass, and ascertain its practicability for wagons, and open the communication with Captain McClellan. Mr. Lander, the estimating engineer, with a small picked party, has gone northward to make athorough examination of the Marias Pass, and a reconnaissance of the country to the Kootenaies post. This pass is said, in consequence of fallen timber, to be almost impracticable, and is here pronounced to be the most difficult of the three passes to be examined, Lieut. Mullan, with a small party, has gone to the Flathead camp, on the Muscle Shell river, about a hundred miles south of this point, where procuring good Flathead guides, he will go through a third pass, and join the expedition at the St. Mary’s village. Lieut. Donelson will leave to-day with an advance party of twenty-five men, two wagons, &c., making a thorough survey and reconnaissance of the approaches to Cadotte’s Pass, and make the road practicable for the wagon train which will follow on the 11th instant, and overtake him at the foot of the first dividing ridge. I shall, with a small party, start to-day for the Piegan camp at the Cypress mountain, some hundred and twenty miles northward, passing along the base of the mountains. I shall make an examination of the approaches, and, returning to this point, overtake the train before it reaches the St. Mary’s village. No apprehensions are felt as to snow: there will be none during the coming month, and the first fortnight of the following, except on the mountain peaks. I am determined, if practicable, to push my whole wagon train through. On reaching the St. Mary’s village, I shall establish a winter post, in charge of Lieut. Mullan, to operate in the passes of the mountains, till driven out by snow, and then to explore the lateral valleys and passes, examining the country south- ward to Fort Hall, to connect the survey with Fremont’s, and northward to the Kootenaies post, under the 49th parallel. In addition to the reconnaissance of Cadotte’s Pass and opening the communication with Capt. McClellan, Lieut. Grover is instructed to return to Fort Benton, make a survey of the Missouri river from the Falls to the Milk river, connecting with the survey of that river by Lieut. Donel- son, and, returning to Fort Benton, get up a dog train and cross the mountains in the month of January. The winter post under the charge of Lieut. Mullan, besides furnishing the means of obtaining valuable meteorological information, is essential to the success of the dog train of Lieut. Grover. The labors of the survey up to this point have been of the most satisfactory character, and attended with entire success, besides examining a large field of country, and establishing the entire practicability of a railroad. The Missouri river is believed to be navigable at all seasons of the year, except when obstructed by ice, to the Falls of the Missouri, for steamboats not drawing over eighteen inches of water. Slight obstructions may occur which can be removed at a comparatively small expense. The survey of the Missouri river from the Falls to a small distance below Milk river, where Lieut. Donelson’s labors terminated, will be taken up next month by Lieut. Grover, and continued. On their joint labors and collections a reliable report on its navigability will be based. I have the honor to be, very respectfully, your obedient servant, ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory, in Charge of Exploration. Hon. Jurrerson Davis, Secretary of War. LETTER TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR. 23 Nortaern Pactrrc RAILROAD EXPLORATION AND Survey, Fort Benton, Upper Missouri, September 8, 1853. Sm: Dr. Evans, the geologist of the expedition, will precede me through the mountains, and going with a light pack train, will reach the mails a fortnight before me. I have made every exertion to prepare my accounts in season for estimates for Congress, at the commencement of its session; but having not yet even met or communicated with the parties west of the mount- ains, I can only make a conjectural estimate. With great exertion on my part to reduce expense and to push through my operations, I am obliged to report that the allotment made of $40,000 from the appropriation for the survey will be entirely exhausted by the close and per- haps by the middle of next month. I do not feel justified to suspend operations. We are on the eve of complete success. My parties are now exploring the passes of the mountains. My intercourse with the Indians has been of the most satisfactory character. The Blackfeet In- dians have sent their chiefs and braves to invite me to their camps; not a horse has been stolen, not a man touched ; no private article has been missed. They have brought our disabled ani- mals into camp, and acted as guides and guards. These Indians sent their war parties to the California trail, and horses believed to be stolen from our emigrants by the Crows are actually taken to the camps of the formidable Blackfeet, under the 49th parallel. To-day I set out with a small party, with Mr. Culbertson, the special agent, to visit a large Piegan camp at their most favorite resort, the Cypress mountains, one hundred and twenty miles north of this point. My object is twofold: to secure guides for the examination of the Marias Pass; and to bring about a general pacification of all the tribes north of the Missouri, and those immediately west of the mountains, on the basis of the treaty of Laramie. I shall, in a letter of this date to the Commissioner of the Indian Bureau, recommend a council to be held next year at some suitable point, say Fort Benton, and shall urge the passage of an appropriation of money to defray the expenses. I do not doubt that complete success will attend it, and that hereafter a single man will be able to go unmolested through these vast plains. In view of the great results which I am of opinion this expedition is on the eve of accom- plishing, I do not feel that I would fulfil the reasonable expectations of the department by sus- pending operations. It seems to me my highest obligation is to continue vigorously the work placed in my charge, and to get results which will justify the expenditure of means. Believing that the department and Congress will sanction this course, I shall vigorously pursue the work, reducing the force on the approach of winter to the smallest amount compatible with an efficient winter organization, and one which in the spring can at a moment be increased for a full re- sumption of the work. This I will earnestly recommend. An instrumental survey should be made of the best mountain passess, both of the Rocky mountain and Cascade range. The inter- mediate lines should be reviewed. The astronomical, magnetic, and meteorological observations should be continued. A large expenditure has been made; trained men are in the field, and all the appliances are at hand. I shall not suspend the work till I receive the instructions of the department to this effect. Estimate for continuing the work to the close of the present fiscal year is, monthly, as follows: ICT ME OLS USO Seana clda'e ci cae'sp.a sign ciuos vee edeieeevens qelscenteinaaiesuacnas $2,500 ENO MERC emlcso mmemnamett: teeeastt et sleeves ciseiee accartsaleisasicisiesjo/scisiciee oieorecr 5,000 FECEIMNET NEO DO nce ciaisisics sa sisiiwiase vinsiows sees coalesce enon eeesescialseds's cael neiam sale 3,000 Jct Wei dlCi 4 ctbpcduodoganbudReabaonudoncidotnent MédcenaHanaces decd aaneesonnces as 3,000 5 LL ngellte 5) locagpse Bl quopaanay edeeenine Uocar sachs Onch Snceicee Pee Seep Rennes 3,000 22 pl Se eliGemegnsaahdod aa uBGi oriceinee Biel HaCee RE He ort Ndlias Sane mE ata 3,000 J QiiTIlL, USS (hs caede pace ao HBO UBDR MRR HER OR cedcchoLcHCcAMeC OSHS a hoHeR team Eyes AH amr 3,000 May, $854.0! <3. agoodgnenbecotoridécnadaobsossooade hed sieanaiiaiice steeen tectiacaene tee 3,500 June, 1854..... Doo dbenneBdeoBeighedaan jac hn dBA Acie eae aeMsehs SRGPSRRSCED AA REE 4,000 24 LETTER FROM CAPTAIN MCCLELLAN TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR. Estimate for fiscal year ending June 30, 1855, $40,000. In addition to the above, I am satisfied that the Missouri can be navigated by steamers to the falls above this place, and I would recommend an appropriation of $10,000 to test the ques- tion next year. The Indian Bureau needs a steamer exclusively for its own use. RECAPITULATION, For continuing the exploration and survey of a route for a railroad from the headwaters of the Mississippi to Puget sound, including the thorough examination of the passes of the mount- ains during the winter, and including a steamer to determine the practicability of navigating the Missouri river to the falls, for the fiscal year ending June 30, 1854, $40,000. For continuing the survey of a route of a railroad from the headwaters of the Mississippi to Puget sound, including an instrumental survey of the best mountain passes, for the fiscal year ending June 30, 1855, $40,000. I have the honor to be, very respectfully, your obedient servant, ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory, in Charge of Exploration and Survey. Hon. Jerrerson Davis, Secretary of War. Nortuern Pactric RAmRoAD EXPLORATION AND SURVEY, Fort Benton, Upper Missouri, September 8, 1853. Sr: I have to request that $10,000 still remaining in the treasury, of the sum allotted to me from the appropriation for the survey of the several routes for a railroad from the Missis- sippi river to the Pacific, be drawn out and placed on deposit, subject to my order, with the Treasurer of the United States. In a report of this date, I have made estimates for continuing the survey the present year, and have recommended that an appropriation of $40,000 be asked of Congress. I will earn- estly request that, from existing appropriations legitimately applicable to such a purpose, a portion of this sum be drawn out and placed on deposit with the Treasurer of the United States, subject to my order, and that I be advised of the action of the department at the earliest prac- ticable period. Communications should be sent to me at Olympia, Washington Territory. I regret I cannot go into more details at this time. But at this moment I feel that I must throw my energies into the almost herculean task before me, and send in careful estimates on reaching Puget sound. I have the honor to be, very respectfully, your obedient servant, ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory, in Charge of Exploration. Hon. Jerrerson Davis, Secretary of War. Camp at Kereras, on YAkrMA River, September 18, 1853. Sir: I have the honor to report that, in consequence of the great detentions caused by the miserable quality of the animals and pack-saddles with which I was provided, and the difficult nature of the country through which we have passed, I was unable to reach the valley of the Wenass (a branch of the Yakima) until August 20. Hearing, from what seemed good authority, that there were numbers of government mules at Steilacoom, and that the trip could be made in five days, I at once sent in my pack-horses to be exchanged, and to bring out provisions to enable me to start from here with three months’ supplies; intending to occupy myself, in the meanwhile, in examining the passes near Regnier. On my return from the LETTER FROM CAPTAIN MCCLELLAN TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR. 25 Nahchess Pass, I received an express from Lieutenant Hodges, informing me that most of his horses had given out, and that there were no spare mules at Steilacoom. I therefore at once determined to reduce the size of the party, and on the next day sent in the escort and packers enough to reduce the number from sixty-eight to about thirty, for which number I can carry the requisite supplies on mules. The Nahchess Pass is at the head of the river of the same name, (the south fork of the Yakima,) about fifteen miles north of Regnier. The lowest point of the divide is 4,966 feet above Vancouver; the divide quite narrow, the ascent in the upper eight miles of the valley 1,612 feet. The valley is frequently reduced to a mere cation, wholly occupied by the bed of the stream. Judging from the snow-marks on the trees, and information received from the Indians, the snow accumulates to great depths in the narrow valleys—I should suppose at least twenty feet—and upon the mountains some five to six feet. Lieutenant Hodges reports the valley on the west side as sloping with great rapidity for about twenty miles from the summit, and as presenting no great difficulties thence to the sound, The pass at the head of the main Yakima, (the Snoqualme Pass) some twenty miles north of the Nahchess Pass, is but 3,544 feet above Vancouver. On the lowest point of the summit is a shallow lake, about two hundred yards long, from which the water runs both ways. From this lake to the west the descent is exceedingly rapid. Towards the east the descent in the distance of about three quarters of a mile is five hundred and thirty feet to another lake about half a mile long; from this to the large lake in which this river heads—a distance of about two miles in a direct line—the descent is five hundred and ninety-nine feet. From this last lake (Kitchelus) there is no difficulty in the way of the construction of a road of any kind; the valley of the river being generally wide and level, but covered in the upper part by a dense growth of timber. The snow must accumulate to about the same extent as in the other pass; but the valley on the east slope being more open, the obstruction would be much less on this route. Being exceedingly pressed for time, I was unable to proceed more than a few miles beyond the divide in the Snoqualme Pass; as far as I went the valley was narrow and the descent steep. The Indians say that, at the distance of about twenty-five miles from the divide, the stream enters a lake, at the foot of which is a cascade some sixty feet in height. Lieutenant Hodges informs me that the officers of the Hudson’s Bay Company at Nisqually are confident that the western portion of this pass is better than the corresponding portion of the Nahchess Pass. But the result of my short experience in this country has been, that not the slightest faith or confidence is to be placed in information derived from the employés of the company, or from the inhabitants of the Territory: in every instance when I have acted upon information thus obtained, I have been altogether deceived and misled. It will, therefore, be impossible to make any accurate comparison of the relative advantages of the west slopes of these passes until we have examined the whole of the Snoqualme Pass ourselves. Near St. Helens the mountains are by no means so large and rugged as near Mount Regnier, yet there does not appear to be so well marked and defined a pass. The lowest point over which our trail passed in that vicinity was 3,100 feet above Vancouver; yet, judging from the appearance of the country near St. Helens, I think there would be great difficulty in passing by the mount- ain. In the portion of the range near Regnier the mountains are so thickly timbered that it is very difficult to obtain any extensive view, and they are so rough as to make it exceedingly difficult to explore them even on foot. J have examined the divides on foot, and, from the short time at my disposal, have been unable to extend the examination as far as would be desirable. Following the west slope of the mountains from Vancouver to the Cathlapoot’l river, the country is very densely timbered, and required constant cutting on the trail. With the exception of a few small tracts, the soil is poor. In the valley of the Cathlapoot’l, which we followed for four days, the country is quite rough and thickly timbered—the soil miserable, and no grass. On the east slopes, near Mount Adams, the country is generally covered by open pine woods, with a coarse grass, the soil not good enough to induce settlements. The last forty-five miles of the trail have been over barren sage plains, mostly without grass, always without 4f 26 LETTER TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR. timber, and very stony: in some of the valleys pretty good bunch-grass is found. ‘The soil of the valleys of the Yakima and its branches, though very limited in extent, is good enough to make tolerable farms, if irrigated. The Indians raise excellent potatoes, but the cold nights (the thermometer frequently standing below 32° at sunrise) and the shortness of the season, would be great obstacles in the way of cultivation. We have found gold in this valley, but no deposit sufficiently rich to justify working. The Indians are thus far perfectly friendly. I have informed the chiefs of the probable passage of immigrants through their country, and of Governor Stevens’sapproach. They have promised to be friendly to the immigrants, and extend every assistance to them ; to prevent depredations on the part of their own people, and to refer any complaints they may have against the immigrants to the Governor on his arrival; but on no - account to retaliate, as I have told them that would not for a moment be allowed. I shall leave this place to-morrow for the north, and will endeavor to reach Fort Colville from Mount Baker. While in the mountains myself, I sent one small party to the mouth of the Yakima and another to the Dalles. The Yakima valley below this is wide, often destitute of grass, no tim- ber of any consequence, and a limited extent of soil that by irrigation could be made moderately productive. On the trail to the Dalles the country is everywhere stony, barren, and worthless. The valley of the Columbia, near the mouth of the Yakima, is a vast sage desert. I shall strike it again somewhat farther north. On the road to Steilacoom, after having passed the mountains, there are a few limited tracts of good land; that on the sound, and for some miles * back, is a mere mass of gravel—perfectly worthless. I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, GEORGE B. McCLELLAN, Lieut. Eng. and Brevet Capt. U. S. A., Commanding Expedition. Hon. Jurrerson Davis, Secretary of War. Norrnern Pactric RarRoaAD EXpPLoRATION AND SURVEY, Fort Benton, September 18, 1853. Str: Since my letters of the 8th instant, transmitted by Dr. Evans, the geologist of the expedition, very important changes have been made in the plan of continuing the survey west- ward, in consequence of the information brought by the arrival of Lieutenant Saxton. I was on my way to the Piegan camps to secure guides for the survey of the Marias Pass, and to provide for permanent relations of peace with the Blackfeet, when Lieutenant Grover’s express overtook me, sixty-five miles from this point, with information that he met Lieutenant Saxton just near the dividing ridge; that the road passed over by Lieutenant Saxton was in many places, in consequence of timber, impracticable for wagons, and that he would be at Fort Benton one day after the express, with much valuable information as to the routes west of the mountains. J immediately determined to return, sending forward Mr, Stanley, the artist of the expedition, with Hammel, the interpreter, and three voyageurs, to see the Indians and invite them to Fort Benton. On my return, which was accomplished in less than twenty-five hours, I placed Mr. Lander’s party in camp on the Marias river, where it would be in position either to move on to the exploration of the Marias, or join, by running a side line, the main party as it entered Cadotte’s Pass. Lieutenant Donelson having informed me, by the express bringing Lieutenant Grover’s letter, that he should the next day move on with the whole party, in pursuance of my instructions, I despatched early in the morning our Indian guide, to direct him to move forward the advance party, that delay might not occur in the survey of the country, but to keep the supply train in camp till my arrival, and on my arrival to meet me with Lieutenant Saxton for consultation. LETTER TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR. 27 Reserving to a subsequent portion of this report some account of Lieutenant Saxton’s admira- ble reconnaissance, one made under many difficulties, it will be sufficient for me to state that our mutual congratulations were of the most cordial character. He left Washington in April with instructions to organize a supply train on the Columbia, to establish a depot of animals and provisions at the St. Mary’s village, and, passing over the Blackfeet trail, to meet me at Fort Benton. It was in Washington determined to direct our first exploration on this pass. As we approached it from this side of the mountains, we called it Cadotte’s Pass, from Cadotte, one of our guides, who passed over it two years since. My first thought, on reaching Fort Benton, was to send forward Lieutenant Grover to ascertain whether he had reached St. Mary’s, or was on his way to this point. I point to the circumstance of their actual meeting within three miles of the dividing ridge, as some evidence of the goodness of the pass, and how well it was under- stood in the first instructions. Cadotte’s Pass is, by the barometer measurements of Lieutenant Saxton, nearly 3,000 feet below the South Pass, and is a much better route both in summer and in winter. It presents not the slightest difficulty to the passage of a railroad. A copy of my Order No. 18, published on Lieutenant Saxton’s arrival, shows the apprecia- tion which we have of his labors. I learned from Lieutenant Saxton that the passes in the Bitter Root and Cascade ranges were more difficult than those in the Rocky mountains; that they could not be crossed later than October, and that the greatest despatch must be used to reach the Pacific before the setting in of winter. I also learned that Captain McClellan was probably still struggling in the passes of the Cascade range, north of the Columbia, to ascertain the most practicable one, and that he could not be expected to push his line east of the Columbia the present season. My previous arrangements had been based on the winter not setting in till the middle or last of November, and on having before me at least a working season of eight weeks. I found it to be reduced, at the very outside, to six, and as regards the Bitter Root range, where snows fall on the 20th, and sometimes as early as the 10th of October, to five weeks. The plateau between the Milk and the Missouri rivers rises gently, and is, in almost every direction, prac- ticable for a railroad. The St. Mary’s valley connects with other valleys running both north and south at the base of the mountains, an aggregate distance of one hundred and fifty miles. Thus Cadotte’s Pass connects all the railroad lines north of the Missouri with all the lines from the Columbia to Puget sound. Accordingly I determined to leave my wagons at this point, to resort entirely to packs to send my whole force through Cadotte’s Pass with the greatest despatch, and direct them on several routes westward through the Bitter Root and Cascade ranges to ascertain the best pass, and to connect with Captain McClellan’s work, and thus endeavor to collect the present season the data to establish the practicability of a railroad from the headwaters of the Mississippi to Puget sound. The survey of the Marias Pass was deferred, and Mr. Lander, under orders for this service, was directed to report to Lieutenant Donelson, who was, by my orders of the 14th instant, a copy of which I herewith enclose, continued in charge of the main party operating in Cadotte’s Pass. It was with great reluctance I abandoned the survey of the Marias Pass. I am sanguine that it will prove the best pass, and it more naturally connects with the line of Clark’s fork of the Columbia river. The great obstacle to the survey of all these passes, and especially the Marias Pass, is in the immense forests which in all directions obstruct the way. The super- abundance of nature has to be done away with in a measure before the full measure of her gifts can be known. The Indians pursue the best trails they can find; but they have not axes to hew their way, nor, finding one pass practicable, have they the patience to search for better ones. To reach the valley of Clark’s fork, a road from Cadotte’s Pass must make a considerable deflection to the north, and it is believed that in no other direction can a road be run to the 28 LETTER TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR. Pacific, in consequence of the impracticable character of that portion of the Bitter Root ranges of mountain lying immediately west of the St. Mary’s valley. Should, however, a good pass be found leading to the Little Salmon fork of Snake river, and should this route to the Pacific prove more feasible than more northern routes, then Cadotte’s Pass will more naturally lead to it, and to the preferable one. Dr. Evans’s survey shows that a railroad line can be run on nearly a straight course from the mouth of Milk river, between the Milk and Missouri, to the falls, and which, in connexion with a good pass in the Bitter Root range west of St. Mary’s, would make the route by Cadotte’s Pass, the Little Salmon, or Kooskooskia river, not only a remarkably direct route, but one that, by branches to Puget sound, to the Willamette valley of Oregon, and even to California, would afford great facilities to emigrants to both Territories, and be in connection with the great port of the Pacific. I shall give as much attention as practicable to the passes in this direction, though they are represented to me as entirely impracticable. I have established at this place a meteorological and supply post, under the charge of Mr. Doty, with Corporal Kouster, of the dragoon detachment, to assist in charge of property; Private Lynt, of the sappers and miners, to assist in observations; and Hugh Robie, laborer and cook. Mr. Doty has rendered service on the route in the astronomical and magnetic obser- vations, having been placed in charge of the latter observations a few days since. He is exceedingly well qualified for his duties, well educated, of decided character, of experience as a woodman, a hunter, and in intercourse with Indians. He will devote himself to the mag- netic and meteorological observations, to getting in the topography to the base and into the passes of the mountains, and to maintaining the present friendly feelings of the Blackfeet Indians. A copy of his instructions is herewith enclosed. From the post established at St. Mary’s, as announced in my letter of the 8th instant, I expect the most valuable results, not only as illustrating the meteorology of the region west of the mountains, but in knowledge of the several passes by actual survey made before operations are resumed in the spring. Lieutenant Saxton left New York on the 5th of May, and, taking the Isthmus route, arrived in San Francisco on the Ist of June. During the time he remained, delayed by procuring an outfit for his journey to the Flathead village, intelligent gentlemen pronounced his undertaking difficult, and indeed impracticable, from the hostility of the Indians, and the character of the country. He had intended to accomplish his labors with a small party of from four to six men. Not able to discourage him, they advised him to enlarge his force, and be attended with an escort. On the 27th of June he reached the Columbia barracks, and proceeded to organize his party and prepare his train. The most experienced and intelligent men there, including Gov- ernor P. 8. Ogden, chief factor of the Hudson’s Bay Company, discouraged his efforts, and predicted his entire failure of getting through this season in consequence of the bad country towards the mountains. Upon the urgent persuasion of these gentlemen, Lieutenant Saxton resolved, in carrying out his instructions, to take a larger party than originally contemplated. On the 1st of July Lieutenant Saxton sent forward Lieutenant Arnold, 3d artillery, with the greater portion of the men and provisions to the Dalles, remaining at Columbia barracks to complete his arrangements. On the 18th of July the organization of this party was perfected, and he started for the mountains, his force consisting of Lieutenant Saxton, 4th artillery, in command; Lieutenant Richard Arnold, 3d artillery, astronomer; Mr. Lyman Arnold, his assistant; Lieutenant Macfeely and eighteen soldiers, of the 4th infantry, as an escort; Mr. D. S. Hoyt, assistant quartermaster’s department; one packmaster, one assistant packmaster, twenty-three packers, and two herders. Lieutenant Saxton encountered many obstacles on his march which were calculated to deter a man of less energy and force of character. The whole of one day he was crossing a sandy desert, the sand at a temperature of 150° Fahrenheit. On reaching the Pend d’Oreille lake, the supplies were all carried across in canoes, and, when over, they discovered that the prairie LETTER TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR. 29 had been burnt for a great distance. The crossing of the burnt prairie and timber occupied four days, during which Lieutenant Saxton lost several of his horses, and every man advised his return. False reports as to the intention of the expedition had been circulated among the Indian tribes through whose country Lieutenant Saxton had to pass. They manifested much suspicion; but meeting Lieutenant Saxton, who had a talk with them, their doubts gradually vanished, and they became steadfast friends. He told them that we were their friends, that our objects were peaceable, and that among the highest of our duties was that of bearing the friendly messages of the Great Father at Washington to his children, and, attesting his kindly feelings by a few presents, he soon established friendly relations. From this time to reaching the St. Mary’s village, he found them ever willing to assist him. At each stream crossed, they were present with their canoes; and one instance occurred where, after assisting Lieutenant Saxton’s party over, they sent on to him, requesting him to fix the rate they should hereafter receive for ferrying over other white men. They reached the St. Mary’s village on the 28th of August, after encountering such obstacles as are common to mountainous countries, obliged to cut their way through dense forests of mountain timber. At this point Lieutenant Saxton placed his provisions in depot, leaving them in charge of Lieutenant Arnold and four men; sent Lieutenant Macfeely, with all the soldiers and quarter- master’s employés whose services could be dispensed with, back to Vancouver, by another route ; and, with Mr. Hoyt, his assistant, eight soldiers, eight packers, and an Indian guide, came across the Rocky mountains by the Blackfeet Pass, and joined me at Fort Benton. It is proper, here to add, that much dread appeared to exist in regard to the Blackfeet Indians, and Lieu- tenant Saxton’s guide, Antoine, an excellent man, would not come farther than the St. Mary’s village unless the party numbered twenty men. It was his intention to bring but four men across the mountain to Fort Benton, but he was thus compelled to bring an escort. Lieutenant Saxton followed up the Columbia as far as Wallah-Wallah; crossed Lewis fork of the Columbia forty miles from its junction with the latter stream ; thence crossed the Spokane to Clark’s fork; crossing Clark’s fork near the outlet of Kalispel lake, continued along the northen shore of Lake Kalispel, and up the valley of Saint Mary’s fork of the Bitter Root to the Flathead village. Lieutenant Saxton reports the route he followed from the Dalles to this place as practicable for a railroad, the Rocky mountains offering no obstacle to its construction, and furnishing an almost inexhaustible supply of timber and other building materials. At the place where he crossed, the elevation is nearly three thousand feet less than the South Pass. He found the country east of Kalispel lake deserted by the Indians, from fear of the Black- feet. The universal opinion in regard to the viciousness and disposition to plunder of these Indians, keeps the whole country in terror during the summer season. The two Messrs. Owen, who for several years have been engaged in raising stock at the St. Mary’s village, were met on their way to the Pacific coast, deeming it no longer safe to remain. As good a map and barometric profile of the route as their rapid march and their limited means would allow, was made by Lieutenant Saxton’s party. I might add that the establishment of a depot at the St. Mary’s village, with plenty of fat oxen, and the depot for which Lieutenant Saxton made especial provision at the head of Pend d’Oreille lake, where Governor P. 8. Ogden has had collected an abundance of cattle for our supply, are facts the knowledge of which enables us to work much later, and secures us much from providing a great amount of transportation. He has, in addition to the supply of provisions, left at St. Mary’s sixty-three animals, which on our arrival will be in fine condition. My train moved forward with strong animals, fit for the service, after leaving at this post some nineteen feeble animals, which could not probably have stood the journey across the mountains, but should the survey be continued another year, will then be in good condition, 30 LETTER TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR. On the junction of Lieutenants Donelson and Mullan’s parties with the party at St. Mary’s, leaving at that post for the winter the animals unable to proceed, I shall have sufficient trans- portation to mount well every member of the survey, and with good packs be able to push for- ward, making forced marches of thirty-five and forty miles per day, if the season compels us to move so rapidly. The unexpected arrival of Lieutenant Saxton with the information he has brought, changes, in several respects, my plans announced in letters written at this point on the 8th of September, and sent forward by Dr. Evans, who left on the 10th with packs for Oregon, and will connect with the mails to the Atlantic States some fortnight earlier than myself. I cannot do better at this time than enclose those copies, and make them part of this letter. I apprehend, however, that this will reach you before they possibly can. In those letters I have briefly referred to our progress up to this point, and have frankly given a statement of the balance of the allotment of the appropriation for the survey intrusted tomy charge. By the middle of October that will have been exhausted, and I have sent my estimates of what I regard actually necessary to continue the survey. I must refer you to Lieu- tenant Saxton in person for much valuable information in connexion with our work—its progress, and its certainty of success. I must earnestly recommend the appropriation, at an early date in the session, of one hundred and fifty thousand dollars, to continue all the surveys for the fiscal year ending June 30, 1854; and, should they make such appropriation, forty thousand as the allotment for this survey. The information brought by Lieutenant Saxton is of so im- portant a character that I have thought it advisable to send him to Washington city to prepare his report, and communicate in person with the departments. He will be accompanied by Mr. D.S8. Hoyt, his assistant in the quartermaster’s department, and Sergeant Collins, of the detachment of sappers and miners, who will assist him in his office work. I have concluded to send back from this point four non-commissioned officers and thirteen dragoons, whose services are no longer required, and they have been placed in charge of Lieu- tenant Saxton. Four discharged quartermaster’s employés, who crossed the mountains with him, and three of my party who desired to be relieved from duty at this place, also go down the river to St. Louis. Sergeant Collins, who has been connected with the main party, has been unable to cross the mountains, in consequence of a severe attack of dysentery. Too much cannot be said in commendation of his merits since his connexion with the party. Lieutenant Donelson, in his report of the survey of the Missouri, notices his efficient service, and since his connexion with the main party as assistant topographer he has performed his duties admi- rably. Of Mr. D. 8. Hoyt, connected with Lieutenant Saxton as his assistant, I would merely say, that Lieutenant Saxton speaks of his labors as being in the highest degree satisfactory. He and Sergeant Collins are detailed for office duty with Lieutenant Saxton in assisting in the pre- paration of his report, and in resuming the survey next year. The following is a statement of the results already accomplished, those which will be gained during the remainder of the season and in the winter, and those which may be expected from the continuance of the survey, from the resumption of operations in the spring to the close of the next fiscal year. RESULTS ALREADY ACCOMPLISHED. 1. A line drawn from the Dalles of the Columbia to the head of navigation of the Missis- sippi. 2. The ascertainment that Cadotte’s Pass, in the Rocky mountains, is nearly 3,000 feet below the South Pass, and is a much better route, both in summer and in winter. 3. That this pass connects by the plateau between the Milk and Missouri rivers, rising gently to the mountains west from Iort Benton, and by the valley of the St. Mary’s and other valleys, extending for 150 miles along the western base of the Rocky mountains, with the several known SS ae LETTER TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR. 31 practicable lines from the Mississippi river north of the Missouri, and with at least one prac- ticable route to the Columbia. 4. That the routes north of the Missouri will connect with the Missouri at the mouth of the Yellowstone, and at the falls by easily constructed and short spur roads. 5. That the Missouri is navigable at all seasons, when not obstructed by ice, for some distance above Fort Union, and is believed to be navigable to the falls for steamers drawing 18 inches of water. 6. That east of the Yellowstone, all the roads must pass over the broad plateau of the Bois de Sioux and the valley of the Mouse river. 7. That roads may be run over the Bois de Sioux from several points on the Mississippi. 8. That at least two good routes can connect the Bois de Sioux with the Mouse River valley— one in the direction of Dead Colt Hillock, on the general route pursued »y Lieutenant Grover, and one on the general route pursued by the main party crossing the Cheyenne river. These routes meet on the entrance into the Mouse River valley. 9. That the Milk river route affords extraordinary facilities for a railroad connecting with all the passes, and that a route can be pursued between the Milk and Missouri rivers, running near Fort Benton and the falls, and naturally connecting with Cadotte’s Pass. 10. That a natural valley, called the Grand Coulée, connecting the routes between the mouth of the Yellowstone and the mountains with the Mouse River valley, and that the passage of the Coteau du Missouri is of easy grade, 11. That by a deflection from @adotte’s Pass along the valley of the St. Mary’s river, a road can be made to Clark’s fork of the Columbia, and by a somewhat circuitous route, and with expensive side cutting, can be extended to the head of navigation of the Columbia. WORK TO BE DONE DURING THE FALL AND WINTER. 1. The route pursued by Lieutenant Saxton to be carefully examined by the estimating engi- neers, to collect the data for estimating the cost of the road. The profile to be tested by addi- tional barometrical observations, and additional observations to be made for latitude and longi- tude. The line to be straightened and improved by side reconnaissance. 2. The survey of the Missouri to be continued to the falls, to determine its navigability for steamers, and the cost of removing the obstructions, to secure a greater depth of six to twelve inches. 3. A pass to be searched for in the Bitter Root range, and a route to be explored from Cadotte’s Pass along the Little Salmon river to Wallah-Wallah, to connect with the survey already made by Captain McClellan, in laying out the military road from Wallah-Wallah to Nisqually. 4, A route to be examined from Cadotte’s Pass by the Mission of St. Joseph, and passing over a somewhat difficult portion of the Bitter Root range, but much used by the Indians and half- breeds in passing from the mountains to Wallah-Wallah. 5. A detached party under Lieutenant Arnold to leave the main party operating on Lieu- tenant Saxton’s line, and move to and beyond Fort Colville to the Cascade mountains, and thence along the eastern base to the line of the military road, to open a communication with Captain McClellan, and connect the surveys to the Columbia with the passes explored by him in that range. 6. Winter posts at Fort Benton and St. Mary’s, under the charge of Mr. Doty and Lieutenant Mullan, to make meteorological and magnetic observations, surveys of the country along the base of the mountains, and into the entrance of the several passes, to collect information as to these passes from guides and Indians, in readiness for operations in the spring. In addition to which, attention to be given to collections and to the Indian tribes. 7. The survey of the mountain passes in winter by Lieutenant Grover, going with a dog train over all the ranges from Fort Benton to Puget sound. 32 LETTER TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR, 8. Such observations as to the navigability of the Columbia as may be practicable at this late season. 9. Moving the main party to Puget sound over the pass found by Captain McClellan to be the best. 10. Meteorological posts at Wallah-Wallah, at Olympia, and possibly at Fort Colville. 11. Office work at Olympia, preparing the report. WORK PROPOSED FROM THE RESUMPTION OF OPERATIONS IN THE SPRING TO THE CLOSE OF THE NEXT FISCAL YEAR. 1. Careful explorations of the Marias Pass of the Rocky mountains, and such other passes as from information acquired on the resumption of the survey shall come into competition with that at Cadotte’s Pass. 2. The completion of the exploration of the Bitter Root and Cascade ranges, it being scarcely practicable to accomplish it the present season. 3. Instrumental surveys of the passes in all three ranges found by exploration to be the best. 4, These passes to be connected by reconnaissance in the best practicable manner. _ 5. The best pass in the Rocky mountains to be connected with the best crossing of the Missis- sippi, by a review of the whole line by a small party under the charge of a competent estimating civil engineer, regard being had to questions of supply and medes of construction; spur roads to the Missouri and a connexion with Lake Superior and the roads leading eastward from the Mississippi. 6. The careful survey of the Columbia river, to determine to what extent it can be made useful in transporting supplies, &c., for the construction of the road. 7. Examinations in relation to connecting the most practicable route with Oregon and Cali- fornia. 8. Re-continuance of the meteorological posts. 9. Information to be collected as to emigrant routes, wagon roads, and country adapted to settlement. . I append to this report copies of all the orders since leaving Camp Pierce, and copies of all the important instructions since leaving Fort Union. These papers will, in connexion with this communication, give as full a report of the present state of the exploration as my limited time will allow. 1. Copies of my three letters to the department of the 8th of September, forwarded by Dr. Evans, and which will not probably reach Washington till after this communication is received. They give a bird’s-eye view of operations; state that the survey fund will probably be exhausted in October; state my determination to continue the survey, and organize a small but efficient winter force, in readiness to resume operations in the spring, and urge the recommending Congress to pass in the deficiency bill an appropriation of $40,000 to continue the work the remainder of the present fiscal year. They ask that the $10,000 now in the treasury, of the sum allotted from the appropriation to the survey of this route, and such other sums as may be applied to it from other appropriations, may be drawn from the treasury and be placed on deposit with the Treasurer, subject to my order. The only modification I now make of these views is, that I would recommend urging Congress to pass an appropriation of $150,000 to continue all these great railroad explorations during the remainder of the present fiscal year, and the same amount in the general appropriation bills for the next fiscal year. 2. Copy of my Order No. 18, (marked No. 4,) issued on the arrival of Lieutenant Saxton at Fort Benton. 3. Copy of my instructions to Lieutenant Grover, (marked No. 5,) directing him to recon- noitre Cadotte’s Pass, ascertain whether Lieutenant Saxton had arrived at Fort Benton, and e ORDER ISSUED ON THE ARRIVAL OF LIEUTENANT SAXTON AT FORT BENTON. 33 directing him, on completing his mission, to return to Fort Benton, to complete the survey of the Missouri, and pass with a dog train over the mountains in the winter. 4. Copy of my instructions to Lieutenant Mullan, (marked No. 6,) directing him to repair to the Flathead camps, on the Muscle Shell river, and from that point to survey a route to St. Mary’s through one of the passes leading from the forks of the Missouri. 5. Copies of three letters of instructions to Lieutenant Donelson, (marked 7, 8, and 9,) the two former based on continuing the exploration with wagons, and providing for the exploration of the Marias Pass by Mr. Lander, and the third changing the train from wagons to packs, and deferring to another season the exploration of the Marias Pass. 6. Copy of my instructions to Lieutenant Saxton, (marked No. 10,) directing him to take charge of the returned men, and to repair to Washington to prepare his report and give inform- ation to the department, &c. 7. Copy of my instructions to Mr. Doty, (marked No. 11,) placing him in charge of the meteorological and supply post at this point. 8. Copy of my General Order No. 11, (marked No. 12,) abandoning two lines of operations from Big Muddy river, and returning thanks to the men for their previous services. 9. All the remaining orders issued by myself or Lieutenant Donelson in connexion with the main party, viz: Orders No. 10, No. 12 to No. 17, and marked consecutively to 27. 10. Copy of camp regulations—(No. 28.) 11. Copy of my letter to Captain Gardiner, June 30, (No. 29,) relieving him from duty in consequence of ill health, and stating that I would assume the duties of quartermaster and com- missary. Iam, sir, very respectfully, your most obedient servant, ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory, in Charge of Expedition, Hon. Jerrerson Davis, Secretary of War, Washington, D. C. No. 4. [OrpER No. 18.] NortHern Pactric RAILROAD EXPLORATION AND SuRVEY, Camp Dobbin, near Fort Benton, September 15, 1853. The chief of the expedition congratulates Lieutenant Saxton and his party upon their safe arrival at Fort Benton, from the mouth of the Columbia. For indomitable energy, sound judgment, and the most crowning accomplishment, Lieutenant Saxton has the thanks of all his associates, and deserves honorable mention at the hands of all men who seek to advance the honor and renown of their country. Lieutenant Grover, in command of the advance party to open a communication with the parties west of the mountains, and who met Lieutenant Saxton near the dividing ridge, also receives the thanks and congratulations of his associates in the great work now so ripe for success. Daylight now breaks through the struggles of three months. On the 8th of June the supply-train left Camp Pierce, on Lake Amelia, and on the 8th of September the parties from the Mississippi and the Pacific shook hands across the continent. The pass of the Rocky mountains is found to be more than one thousand feet below the South Pass, and is not only practicable, but expressly made to our hands for the great northern railroad, ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory, in Command of Exploration. of 34 INSTRUCTIONS TO LIEUTENANTS GROVER AND MULLAN. No. 5. Fort Benton, Upper Missourt, Seplember 5, 1853. Dear Str: With a select party of seven men and sixteen animals, you are assigned to the duty of reconnoitring the Blackfoot trail to the St. Mary’s village, and of the route from that point to the Kootenaies post.. You will then return to this point and make the survey of the upper Missouri, from the Falls, to connect with Lieutenant Donelson’s survey, which extended some distance above Fort Union. You will then return from Fort Union, and reconnoitre the country between the Milk and Missouri rivers. At Fort Benton you will get up a dog train and cross the mountains in the winter, make the best of your way to Puget sound, and report to me at Olympia. In the reconnaissance to the St. Mary’s village observe carefully camping grounds, the general practicability of the route for wagons, the particular difficulties, and how they are to be over- come, and send back by two of your voyageurs, H. Beaubien and Cadotte, a report in relation to the same—instructing them to deliver the report to myself or the officer in charge of the main train. Also give information as to whether a depét has been established by Lieutenant Saxton at the Flathead village, and the provisions and animals in store there. The object in going to the Kootenaies post is two-fold: First, to open the communication with Captain McClellan; and second, to open a connexion with the Hudson’s Bay posts, in order to draw upon them for supplies for the prosecution of the survey west of the mountains, in the event Lieutenant Saxton has failed to establish a depdt at the St. Mary’s village. Upon your return I shall be able to give some general instructions in relation to the survey of the Missouri and the remaining work assigned to you. It is important that I should meet Captain McClellan at the St. Mary’s village, about the 25th of September. If practicable, get word to him to this effect. Truly yours, ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory, in Command of Exploration. Lieut. C. Grover, 4th Artillery, U. S. Army, Fort Benton, Upper Missouri. After the above letter was written— Nore.—Very full verbal instructions were given to Lieutenant Grover, that should he meet Lieutenant Saxton, either on the way or at St. Mary’s, to return immediately and apprize me of such fact. In case Lieutenant Saxton had not established the depot at St. Mary’s, he was to push forward to the Kootenaies post, and from that point fit out, by the assistance of the Hud- son’s Bay Company, an express with a note to Captain McClellan, asking him, if practicable, to meet me on the 25th September, at the village of St. Mary’s. After which Lieutenant Grover was to return at once to Fort Benton. No. 6. Fort Benton, Uprer Mrissourt, September 8, 1853. Drar Sir: With a select party, consisting of the Piegan guide, (the White Crane,) Mr. Rose, Mr. Burr, and two voyageurs, you will visit the Flathead camp, on the Muscle Shell river, about one hundred miles south of this place; and procuring the most intelligent and reliable Flathead guides, you will make your way to the St. Mary’s village, exploring the best pass to that point from the headwaters of the Missouri river. You will collect every possible inform- ation as to routes, streams, prominent land-marks, and characteristic features of country; INSTRUCTIONS TO LIEUTENANT DONELSON. 5 BS, noting particularly the general quality of the soil, the forest trees, grasses, quality of water, and practicability of the route for the passage of wagon trains. With the barometer you will make the best profile the time will allow of the route you pass over, and such facts as your limited means will allow, as to the feasibility of the route for a railroad. But the great duty which I place in your hands, is to carry from me a message of the Great Father to the Flatheads. Assure them that the Great Father appreciates their services and understands their merits; that he will hereafter protect them from the incursions of the Black- feet, and other Indians east of the mountains, and make them live as friends; that he will send to them, each year, certain articles which they most need; and that a faithful and intelligent agent shall live among them. Speak of your own duties, and of your occupation of the St. Mary’s post. I want to meet the prominent Flathead chiefs and braves at the St. Mary’s village, at the close of the present month; and I rely on your energy and tact to induce them to accompany you to that point. It is my determination to bring the tribes north of the Missouri, and those west of the mount- ains, into a general council at this point next year, and to make a lasting peace between all the tribes of Indians not included in previous arrangements. Dwell on this in the Flathead camp. You understand well the general character of the Flatheads, the best Indians of the mount- ains or the plains. Honest, brave, docile, they need only encouragement to become good citi- zens. ‘They are Christians; and we are assured by the good Father De Smet that they live up to the Christian code. Dwell on the good Father, and say that his words in their favor have reached the Great Father and made all good men their friends. I want to build up anew the village of St. Mary’s. Let the Flatheads understand I am their friend—one who will join hands with former friends for their good. No labors will be more sweet than those which will enable me to place in permanent homes, in that beautiful valley, these interesting children of the mountains. Truly yours, ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory, in Charge of Exploration. Lieut. J. Munayn, Jr., 1st Artillery, United States Army. . . INGOs Forr Brenton, September 7, 1853. Dear Doyetson: I am satisfied you should take the advance with the odometer party, a baro- meter, a sextant, two wagons, twenty to twenty-five men, and examine carefully the approaches to Cadotte’s Pass. The country, and particularly the river crossings, the plateau east of the Teton to the Missouri, and from the same plateau to the plateau between the Sun river and the next considerable tributary of the Missouri, will especially require careful examination. On leaving the Sun river to reach the base of the first dividing ridge, several streams are crossed, and it is probable a wide range of country should be taken. It is probable you will be obliged to halt every alternate day in order to do the side work. The detached parties for this work should not exceed three men. ‘T'wo will often be sufficient. The whole train will reach you by the time you are at the base of the first dividing ridge, and then the advanced party must be turned into a pioneer party to remove obstructions. Whatever reports are sent to me, I am now determined to push a wagon train through; nor shall a mule be packed, except for side work, till we reach the point where we are compelled to unload our wagons. 36 INSTRUCTIONS TO LIEUTENANT DONELSON. It is impossible to give more definite instructions than those indicated in my letter of day before yesterday, and given in this note. Much is left, of necessity, to the judgment of the officers charged with the work. It involves a constant exercise of judgment and a careful study of every new fact. ‘The country is not known except in a general way; but enough is known to say that the approaches to Cadotte’s Pass must be over a large space of country, and the examinations must be such that the main features shall be given with accuracy. When Mr. Tinkham gets in, he can at once join you, giving to the region you pass over in advance a careful examination for facts and general views of construction. With his work, and that of Mr. Lander and Lieut. Grover, the connexion from Milk River valley with your work will be complete. ] wish you to throw yourself into this work with your whole force. It is important that not a day should be lost. As regards Lieutenant Mullan, unless his services are indispensable, he should go to the Flat- head camp, reaching St. Mary’s village by a new and more southern pass. The force placed at his disposal must of necessity be small. Including one Indian (Piegan) and Mr. Rose, (Mr. Culbertson’s storekeeper) I cannot assign more than twomen. Yet it must be certain that he can be spared from the magnetic observations and from the main train. He will, at all events, find his field on reaching the St. Mary’s village. You must go in advance, and if possible to-morrow. The main train should move not longer than four days after you. It will consist of twelve mule wagons, not loaded more than 1,200 pounds each. I shall push all my business through to-day, and have not the time to consult I desire. When you come in, and come early, have your programme complete for the advance party, and I will decide at once. * * * * * * * * * * * [Here follow some unimportant paragraphs, relating to duty for next day, &c.] Truly yours, ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory, in Charge of Exploration. No. 8. Forr Brenton, Upper Missouri, * September 7, 1853. Str: You are placed in charge of the survey of the railroad route from this point through Cadotte’s Pass to the St. Mary’s village, and your force will consist of the odometer party, in charge of Mr. Lambert, assisted by Sergeant Collins ; the astronomical party, in charge of Mr. Stevens, assisted by Sapper Roach ; the magnetic party, in charge of Mr. Doty, assisted by Sapper Wilson ; Dr. Suckley, the surgeon and naturalist of the expedition, assisted by Sapper Horner ; the meteorological party, in charge of Mr. Moffett, assisted by Mr. Burr and the trained sappers of your detachment ; Mr. Tinkham, estimating engineer ; Mr. Osgood, the disbursing quartermaster and commissary agent and acting quartermaster and commissary of the party, and especially in charge of the baggage and supply train, with Sergeant Higgins, Corporals Coster, Simpson, and Pierson, assistant wagon and pack-masters; Sergeant Lindner in command of dragoons, Corporal Causser with the mountain howitzer, and fourteen non-commissioned officers and men of the dragoon detachment ; Mr. French and Mr. Morgan, artificers ; Bashall, the blacksmith, Meckleback, saddler, and twenty-seven quartermaster’s employés, &c. You will form an advance party, consisting of the odometer party, the estimating engineer, (as soon as he shall have returned from his reconnaissance of the Three Buttes,) and Mr, Adams, INSTRUCTIONS TO LIEUTENANT DONELSON, 37 assistant artist ; an assistant from the meteorological party, a small detachment of dragoons, with the necessary employés of the quartermaster’s department, two wagons, rations for fifteen days, will move forward at once towards Cadotte’s Pass, moving slowly, covering the ground with great care from the dividing ridge east of the Big Teton to the Missouri river, and in- cluding a rapid reconnaissance of the falls of the Missouri river. The approaches to Cadotte’s Pass must be examined with care, and full information gained as to river crossings and side approaches. The space to be covered, at first large, will undoubtedly narrow towards the entrance to the pass. Advantage must be taken of hills to gain views of country. Small detached parties of one, two, or at most three men, must be thrown out for purposes of reconnaissance. In the pass the lateral valleys and passes should be examined to the extent of the force at your disposal. More definite instructions cannot be given. The field will open and the right methods will be suggested as you advance. Much must be left, of necessity, to your own judgment. I refer you, in relation to this matter, to my letter of this morning, which will be considered as a portion of these instructions, and in which my views are given as to the method of conducting operations. For information as to the details of the work, I refer you to my printed instructions, to the written instructions addressed to and in possession of the chiefs of parties, and to the methods actually in use since your connexion with the main party. The supply and baggage train will move forward on the 11th or 12th instant, in charge of Mr. Osgood, and the marches will be so arranged between the two portions of the command, as that the whole shall be brought together at the foot of the first dividing ridge, and where the greatest obstructions to the passage of wagons are said to be found. All the baggage will be carried in wagons, and the train will consist of twelve mule teams and one ox-wagon. On reaching the point where serious difficulties may occur to the passage of wagons, an effi- cient pioneer party should be organized, kept well ahead to remove obstructions, and prepare for the passage of the train. Ample supplies of rope and tackle should be provided. You are instructed to direct your energies to the passage of the train, though not to involve serious detriment to the prosecution of the survey. All the pack-saddles will be taken along to pro- vide for the possible necessity of abandoning the wagons. The wagons will not, however, be abandoned without my direct order, and you are authorized, when, in your judgment, the task of pushing through the wagon train shall endanger the operations of the survey, to make a report in writing to me to that effect, and to turn over the train to Mr. Osgood, taking the rations necessary for reaching the St. Mary’s village, and leaving to me the responsibility of deciding upon the question of continuing the effort to get the train to the St. Mary’s. In drawing rations, however, you will leave with the train at least double the amount taken for the party you may organize under your immediate charge for the survey. I cannot authorize, however, the separation of the party, and placing the entire responsibility of the train with Mr. Osgood, without your written report, referred to above, addressed to me, and placed in his hands. That report will authorize Mr. Osgood to take such measures for the care of the train and animals as, in his judgment, may be necessary. On reaching the St. Mary’s village, you will rest your animals and await my arrival—con- forming, however, to instructions you may receive from Captain McClellan. It is probable that Lieutenant Mullan may reach that point not long after your arrival, bringing excellent Flat- head guides, acquainted with the several passes to the Hudson’s Bay posts on the Columbia river, and to Fort Hall. No time should be lost in gaining every possible information as to routes. In case of a depot not having been established at the St. Mary’s village by Lieutenant Saxton, Dr. Evans, the geologist of the expedition, has instructions to bring up supplies from the Dalles for the service of the parties that may operate from the St. Mary’s village. It is my intention to establish at the St. Mary’s village a winter post in charge of Lieutenant Mullan, to operate in the passes of the mountains till driven out by snow, and then to explore the lateral valleys and passes. Its establishment is essential to secure success to the contem- 38 INSTRUCTIONS TO LIEUTENANT DONELSON. plated survey, by Lieutenant Grover, of Cadotte’s Pass, with a dog train, in the month of January. Lieutenant Grover has already preceded you to reconnoitre the pass, and to open a communi- cation with Captain McClellan. On reaching Medicine river, you may expect to meet his express, consisting of Cadotte and H. Beaubien, with a letter to me, giving information as to camps, water, difficulties of the route, and as to the arrival of Lieutenant Saxton at St. Mary’s. This you will open and copy, and will then send the express forward with it to the supply train, and thence to meet me. Should Lieutenant Grover meet you on his return, before you reach St. Mary’s, you will furnish him with such men as he may select for his winter’s work, not exceeding eight in his whole party, and render such assistance as he may require on his way to Fort Benton. The most vigilant attention must be given to issues of provisions, and only half rations of hard bread and flour will be allowed when fresh meat is in abundance. This rule will apply to the gentlemen as well as men of the party. Single rations of sugar and coffee only can be allowed, except on extraordinary occasions. Ineed not enlarge upon the necessity of care of animals, and keeping daily reports, as it is already well understood by you, and has been made the occasion of issuing an excellent order, The scientific parties left behind will all move with the supply train. It is my expectation to return from the Piegan camp about the 18th instant; to move from Fort Benton not later than the 20th, and to reach the St. Mary’s valley by the close of the month. Yours, &e., ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory, in Command of Exploration. Lieutenant A. J. Donetson, Corps of Engineers. No. 9. Nortuern Pacrric RAILROAD EXPLORATION AND SURVEY, Camp Dobbin, near Fort Benton, September 14, 1853. Duar Sm: The arrival of Lieutenant Saxton, with information of the establishment of the St. Mary’s post, of the practicability of Cadotte’s Pass, and of the route pursued by him for a railroad, but with the information that the Bitter Root range of mountains cannot with cer- tainty be crossed after the 20th of October, makes it necessary to use all possible despatch in crossing the Rocky range, and getting the exploring parties at work on their general routes westward to the Columbia. The survey of the Marias Pass will be deferred until next year. Mr. Lander’s party, as- signed to this duty, have been directed to report to you. The whole party will move through the pass under your direction, with pack-train. Two efficient parties, under the associate en- gineers, Messrs. Lander and Tinkham, will get in side-work, and make the necessary estimates. Mr. Graham will report to you for astronomical duty, and Mr. Bixby to Mr. Lambert, in charge of the odometer party, for running the base-line. All the dragoons, except Sergeant Lindner, Corporals Coster and Rummell, will be ordered to report to Lieutenant Saxton. Mr. Doty will be directed to report to me with Corporal Coster, and will occupy Fort Benton as a meteoro- logical and supply post. An observer may be kept at Fort Union. The two Osbornes, the blacksmith and saddler, will also report to Lieutenant Saxton. Mr. Stevens will report to me with the portable transit, and the necessary astronomical in- struments, for special duty. When your train is in readiness to move, all the stores and bag- gage left behind will be turned over to Mr. Osgood, who will report to me for his duties, in connexion with all the parties, as the disbursing, quartermaster, and commissary agent of the expedition. INSTRUCTIONS TO LIEUTENANT SAXTON. 39 You will press on, carrying out my instructions of the 8th instant, with all your vigor, and reach Saint Mary’s at the earliest practicablemoment. If I do not arrive within three days, organize your parties to explore, and survey routes to the Columbia, directing more especially towards and beyond Fort Colville, to meet Captain McClellan, and establish the Saint Mary’s post under Lieutenant Mullan, with a force of ten to twenty, consisting of the seven soldiers of the 4th infantry, and such employés and voyageurs of the original party, operating from the Mississippi, as may consent to remain with their present pay, and of an experienced meteorolo- gist, and, if practicable, a good topographer. Lieutenant Mullan has had verbal instructions from me as to his duties, and you will, on conference with him, have all the information to en- able you to give the necessary written instructions. I shall endeavor to leave this place in six days, and hope to reach St. Mary’s within three days after your arrival, Yours, truly, ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory, in Charge of Exploration. Lieutenant A. J. Donerson, Corps of Engineers. No. 10. Norruern Pactric RatmRoAp EXpLoRATIOoN AND Survey, Fort Benton, September 19, 1853. Dear Sir: You are instructed to take charge of the enlisted men who have reported to you to be returned from this point, and, with the keel-boat which has been purchased on account of the quartermaster’s department, proceed down the Missouri with the greatest possible despatch, in execution of the following duties: First. To return the enlisted men to their appropriate army service, either at Fort Leaven- worth or at St. Louis, as may be deemed by you the more advisable; and in like manner to dis- charge and pay off the employés of the quartermaster’s department—affording, however, to all who may desire it, transportation to St. Louis. Second. To turn over the keel-boat for the service of the quartermaster’s department at Fort Leavenworth, or dispose of the same by sale, as the public interest may require. Third. To proceed to Washington, organize your office force, which will consist of your as- sistant in the quartermaster’s department, Mr. Hoyt and Sergeant Collins, of the detachment of sappers and miners. This report you are requested to prepare with great care, and to send it at the earliest possible period to me at Olympia; at the same time you will send a copy of it in my name to the Secretary of War. It is suggested that in this report you give in separate chapters the results of your observa- tions in botany, natural history, and geology, and you are requested not only to report, in great detail, your experience with the Indians, but to enter fully into the several questions of Indian policy, especially those relating to their being reclaimed from a wandering life to permanent homes. Fourth. Sergeant Collins, of the detachment of sappers and miners, is assigned to duty as an assistant in the work, and on resuming the survey ; and you are authorized to continue Mr. Hoyt in the service of the expedition for the same purpose. Fifth, One of your most important duties in Washington will be to afford information to the departments and to Congress as to this hitherto unexplored region of country, and to show how the interests and the honor of the country require the continuance of three great geograph- ical explorations. ; Siath. You have had opportunities to observe the Indian tribes, and your experience, in con- 40 INSTRUCTIONS TO LIEUTENANT SAXTON. nexion with that gained by our parties moving westward from the Mississippi, has established in all our minds the conviction that a council should be held next year at this point, to enter into a treaty with all the Indians north of the Missouri not included in existing arrangements, and those immediately west of the mountains, providing that hereafter they should cease warring upon each other, and continue, for all time to come, the friends of the whites. The time is ripe for such a consummation. I desire you to devote your energies to call the attention of the department and of Congress to this subject. In a letter which I shall send by you to the Com- missioner of the Indian Bureau, I shall urge that Congress be asked to appropriate money early in the session to defray the expenses of this council, and that a steamer, applicable to the service generally of the Indian bureau on the Missouri, be chartered or purchased to reach this point. Seventh. It is hoped that appropriations will also be made early in the session to continue the survey, in which case you are requested to make the best practicable arrangements to reach this point with the assistants, Mr. Hoyt and Sergeant Collins, now on duty with you, for the purpose of exploring the region west. If appropriations be made early in the session for con- tinuing the survey and for holding a council, it is believed that the best interests of the two services would make it absolutely necessary to secure a steamer to insure efficiency to each. To that end, much is expected from your experience and judgment. Highth. On reaching Puget sound, and ascertaining the condition of the work at the close of the season, I shall send more full instructions in relation to the place of continuing the survey and the supplies, instruments, and assistance required to be brought to this point. One thing is certain: a letter from Washington addressing me that appropriations have been made, and that a steamer will be placed upon the river, will give me notice two weeks before it will be necessary to leave Olympia for Fort Benton to meet it. Ninth. Going down the Missouri, you will be able to collect many valuable facts in reference to its general character, as to the steamer adapted to navigate it, as to depots for wood and the best method of supplying them, and as to the probable time required to make the trip, both up and down the river, which will add much to the value of your report. Tenth. I shall, at the earliest practicable moment, submit a report on the navigability of the Missouri, based on the surveys of Lieutenants Donelson and Grover, and your own observa- tions; but should not this report be received before you have to act, I will express the opinion that you can reach Fort Benton by the middle of June, leaving St. Louis early in May, with a steamer drawing eighteen inches of water. Eleventh. A. Culbertson, special agent among the Blackfeet Indians, goes with you, under instructions from me to repair to Washington as soon as his other arrangements will permit, to urge the importance of entering, without delay, into treaty arrangements with these Indians and those west of the mountains. His experience of twenty years among these Indians, and his known force of character, will give great weight to his views. I expect that there will be the most cordial co-operation between you in relation to these Indian questions. He knows thoroughly the river, and will put his hand to the helm. Twelfth. William Graham and Henry Beaubien, who have at this point, at their request, been relieved from their connexion with the expedition, will accompany you, and be furnished with transportation and subsistence to St. Louis. Yours, &c., ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory, in Charge of Exploration. Lieut. Rurus Saxton, 4th Artillery, Fort Benton. INSTRUCTIONS TO MR. DOTY.—GENERAL ORDER. 41 No. 11. Instructions to James Doty, left in command of the meteorological and supply post of the Northern Pacific Railroad Exploration and Survey established at Fort Benton, September, 1853. Str: You are placed in command of the meteorological and supply post at Fort Benton. Corporal Coster, Sapper Lynt, and Hugh Robie, are placed under your command: Coster to assist in taking care of the property left at this post, Lynt to assist in observations, Robie as cook and laborer. Observations will be made with the barometers, thermometers, and hygrometer, three times each day. The amount of rain will be determined by the river gauge. It is desirable to ascer- tain the general character of the winter: as, the depth and continuance of snow; time at which the river is frozen; time of breaking up; floating ice; freshets, We. It is important that all opportunities for observations of the Indian tribes in this vicinity should be improved. Information is desired concerning their habits, customs and tradition; the boundaries of their country; their wintering places, and their hunting-grounds in summer. It is supposed that these Indians are often found upon the California emigrant trail, and even as far south as Taos, in New Mexico. Ascertain, if possible, whether their predatory excursions have this range. Topographical explorations may be made when practicable. The winter trading posts of the American Fur Company may be visited whenever the com- pany’s employés go there to trade during the winter, at which time much valuable information may be acquired concerning the Indians and the general features of their country. It is desirable to make collections in natural history, mineralogy and botany, and to keep a full journal of all of interest that transpires. You will remain in charge of this post until the 1st of July next, or until relieved by orders from myself. I shall make every exertion to reach Fort Benton, via Puget sound, in June next. I leave with you the printed instructions and a copy of the letter of the Commissioner of the Indian Bureau, authorizing me to enter into negotiations with all Indians north of the Mis- souri, not included in existing arrangements. Very truly and respectfully, ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory, in Charge of Expedition. Mr. Dory. No. 12. [Orver No. 11.] NortHern Pacrric RAtLRoAD EXPLORATION AND SURVEY, Camp Atchison, Mouth of Milk River, August 19, 1853. The plan of continuing the survey to Fort Benton in two parties, determined upon at Fort Union and announced in a letter to the Secretary of War, dated August 8, 1853, under the respective directions of Lieutenants Donelson and Grover, having been abandoned at the junction of the two camps on the west side of Big Muddy river, the following arrangements are made, adapted to the plan now in execution of moving in one line by Milk river: 1. Lieutenant Donelson is the executive officer of the expedition. Under the direction of the chief of the expedition, he will exercise a general supervision on the march, and in camp regulate the details of guards, supervise the inspection of arms, and see generally that the orders of the chief of the expedition are executed. He will take general charge of all the observations, connecting them with the odometer survey, the work of the reconnoitring officers and that of the civil engineers, and will make a daily report in relation to this con- nexion, its character, scope, and completeness, and will, as the assistant of the chief of the 6f 492 GENERAL ORDER. expedition in charge of the observations, submit such other reports, and give, in his name, such directions as may be required. Corporal Cunningham and Artificer Smith, of the engineer detachment, are especially assigned to duty with Lieutenant Donelson. 2. Lieutenants Grover and Mullan are placed in charge of the matnetic observations, and Mr. Stevens is relieved therefrom. Daily observations of declination, dips, and intensity, should be made whenever practicable. These observations, in importance and interest, are secondary to none in the expedition, and from the joint labors of Lieutenants Grover and Mul- lan the best results are expected. Private Roach, of the engineer detachment, is assigned to duty with these observations, as an aid. This opportunity must be availed of to acknowledge the services of Mr. Stevens in this department. 8. Lieutenant Grover is also requested to make such astronomical observations as his time and circumstances will admit of, in order to be ready to take charge personally of all observa- tions on detached service, to which he at any moment may be assigned. Much is expected from his known energy, activity, and ability in all departments of the expedition. He is directed to do such reconnoitring as may be compatible with his other duties, and, by examination of enides and Indians, and particularly by a free interchange of views with the civil engineers, gain every possible information in reference to probable routes—reporting daily to the chief of the expedition in relation thereto. 4, Mr. Stevens is continued on duty as the astronomer of the expedition. Great attention must be given to these observations, particularly those of lunar distances, and with the portable transit. This instrument should be mounted as often as practicable, and it is believed that on reaching Fort Benton, the longitude of that point, and the rates of the chronometers can by it be determined with great accuracy. Messrs. Doty and Graham are continued on duty in the astronomical department as assistants, and thanks are returned to them for the efficient aid they have already rendered. Mr. West is especially commended for his great patience and fidelity in the performance of his duty, and, with Private Wilson, of the engineer detachment, is also continued on duty as an aid. 5. The meteorological observations are continued in charge of Mr. Moffett, with Mr. Burr as an assistant, and Artificers Davis and Lynt, and Private Broadwell, of the engineer detachment, as aids. Mr. Moffet’s industry, perseverance, and success in overcoming many practical dif- ficulties, and in faithfully making and recording a large number of observations, are acknow- ledged. In addition to faithfully assisting in the camp observations, Mr. Burr has, on detached duty, shown a high spirit, and rendered efficient service. ; 6. The civil engineer party is placed on the following basis: Mr. Lander, with Mr. Evelyn as assistant, is charged with the duty of taking large views of country, with collecting inform- ation in reference to supplies, the location of the road, and questions of transportation, and, in connexion with data afforded by the odometer survey, and by detached parties, estimates and reports upon the general construction and location of the road. In these duties Mr. Tinkham will be associated with Mr. Lander. Mr, Lambert is placed in charge of the odometer survey, with Sergeant Collins, of the engi- neer detachment, as assistant topographer, and Mr. Bixby to run the compass line. The civil engineers and the topographer will make daily reports to the chief of the expedition. 7. The artist and naturalist of the expedition will act under the immediate instructions of the chief of the expedition, who may, however, communicate instructions through the senior officer, Lieutenant Donelson. The same remarks will apply to the quartermaster and commis- sary agent of the expedition, Mr. Osgood, who will also, in relation to camps and marches, act under the immediate direction of the executive officer. Mr. Kendall is continued on duty, with Mr, Osgood as general assistant, and Corporal Coster, of the dragoon detachment, in the details of quartermaster and commissary duties. Mr, Adams, whose services as assistant topo- grapher from the Mississippi to Fort Union, both on the line of the odometer survey and on reconnaissance, have been of great value, is assigned to the artist as an assistant. Private GENERAL ORDER. 43 Horner, of the engineer detachment, is continued on duty with the naturalist, as an aid. The services he has rendered are entitled to notice. 8. All matters petaining to Indians will be referred, in all cases where practicable, to the chief of the expedition ; and all persons are enjoined to carry out the mild, humane, but firm policy, as instructed by those having charge of our Indian affairs. To this end reasonable issues of provisions will be made, and, under regulation, free access to camp will be permitted. But all men are enjoined to be on their guard, and the general deportment of the camp should be vigilant to prevent stampede of animals and the loss of single men. The interpreters employed must be used in intercourse with the Indians, to guard against misunderstanding, and that their real wants may be known. In the absence of the chief of the expedition, reference must be had to Mr. Culbertson, special agent among the Blackfeet Indians. 9. The chief of the expedition cannot omit this opportunity to acknowledge the great ser- vices of Lieutenants Donelson and Grover: the former for his elaborate survey of the Mis- souri river to above Fort Union, and his reconnaissance of the country in the vicinity of Fort Union, from the White Earth to the Big Muddy rivers. The survey of the Missouri, prosecuted under great difficulties, was not only very complete, affording even the data for prosccuting operations to make it more navigable, but was enriched with large collections in geology and natural history, and illustrated by characteristic views. The reconnaissance from the White HKarth to the Big Muddy was necessary to complete the work of the overland parties. In this work the services of Lieutenant Mullan and Mr. Graham have largely contributed, and their services deserve special commendation. The services of Sergeant Collins, of the engineer detachment, particularly in the topographical survey of the Missouri river, deserve notice; they not only reflect credit on the company to which he belongs, but bespeak for him a career of future usefulness. Lieutenant Grover, deflecting from the course of the main party at an early stage in its march, and taking charge of a small detached party at a period when such service was con- sidered one of peril, steadily contended with and overcame all obstacles and difficulties, and, with the eye of an engineer marking out his course, reached Fort Union seven days before the main party. The chief of the expedition would do injustice to his appreciation of Lieutenant Grover’s services if he failed to express his admiration and respect for them. In this connexion is noticed the valuable aid afforded to Lieutenant Grover by Mr. Evelyn, in charge of the train, and Corporal Cunningham, of the sappers and miners, in charge of the odometer and compass on that line. Their services are deserving of warm commendation, The services of Lieutenant Mullan in relation to the survey of the Missouri, and the recon- naissance from the White Earth to the Big Muddy rivers, have been of the most marked character, and entitle him to especial commendation. Particularly has he brought up the meteorological observations to a proper standard, and taken charge of the collections. His services in training assistants have been most valuable. Mr. Graham, who had charge of the astronomical observations under direction of Lieutenant Donelson, deserves especial notice for his efficient services, rendered amidst many trying difficulties. Acknowledgments are due to the civil engineers, Messrs. Lander and Tinkham: Mr. Lander, for his examination and report on the crossing of the Mississippi, his reconnais- sance of the Cheyenne valley, of the Dog’s House, and of the Mouse river and the Coteau du Missouri, and for the consummate judgment and great experience which he has brought to his department of the work; and Mr. Tinkham, for the admirable compass line, connecting the geographical positions, which he has run half across the continent, and for valuable topo- graphical and statistical information collected on the route. Mr. Bixby, in charge of the compass, did not even seem conscious of difficulties or obstructions in his course. The expedition has been most fortunate in its surgeon and naturalist, Dr. Suckley. Not 44 ORDERS. only a scholar and gentleman, beloved by all, but eminent for his genius, his energy, his dili- gence, whose efforts have been felt in all departments of the expedition. The artist, Mr. Stanley, has illustrated, in the most faithful manner, all that has been done and seen. The topographer, Mr. Lambert, has shown his extraordinary talent in his department of the work, and to great professional excellence has added untiring application. The most emphatic acknowledgments are due to Mr. Stevens, the astronomer of the expedi- tion, for his perseverance amidst many practical difficulties, and for his cheerful performance of duty when overtasked with work, and overloaded with the duties of a new and difficult department not contemplated to be assigned to his charge, and for the valuable results which he has contributed to the expedition. The sound judgment, steady course, and great integrity of the disLursing quartermaster and commissary agent, Mr. Osgood, have not only done much towards overcoming many difficulties in the expedition, and to establishing kindly relations between its several parts, but have com- manded the respect and won the affection of both the officers and men. Mr. Everett, the quar- master and commissary clerk, a veteran in the public service, has been to all an example of constancy and diligence. Mr. Kendall’s services in difficult confidential business at the early stage of the expedition, in connexion with instruments and supplies, and, at a later period, in charge of the feeble animals, and preparing them for a return to service, were in the highest degree of advantage to the expedition, and are gratefully acknowledged. Mr. Evans, the assistant of the chief of the expedition in the custody and preparation of papers, orders, &c., has cheerfully performed his varied duties, and has in all departments rendered efficient service. The sappers and miners on duty with the expedition have, by their labors, added to its results, and will, before its close, identify themselves and their arm with every one of the scientific departments, and with the collections and surveys. Thanks have already been returned to the guides and hunters, the detachment of dragoons, and the several employés of the quartermaster’s department; but the present occasion is availed of to repeat the grateful acknowledgments of services, and to say, that with such men all obstacles will surely be overcome in the accomplishment of the great objects of the expedition. In closing this order, the efficiency of Sergeant Lindner, (of the dragoon detachment,) of Sergeant Higgins, (the wagonmaster,) and of Sergeant Simpson, (the pack-master,) on duty with the main party, and of Corporal Coster and Mr. Pierson with Lieutenant Grover’s party, is especially commended. ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory, in Charge of Exploration. No. 13. [Orper No. 1.] Camp Prerce, May 30, 1858. Lieutenant Grover having requested to be relieved from the duties of acting assistant quar- termaster and commissary of the expedition for the survey and exploration of a railroad from the Mississippi to Puget sound, in order to devote his time to the performance of the scientific duties of the expedition, and Captain Gardiner having consented to act in that capacity, Lieutenant Grover is relieved from that duty, and Captain Gardiner will, from this date, act as quartermaster and commissary. ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory, in Command of Expedition. 4 ORDERS. 45 No. 14. [OrpeR No. 2.] Came Pierce, Jay 30, 1853. The astronomical and magnetic observations are intrusted to the charge of George W. Stevens, Esq., and Captain A. Remenyi, who will alternate daily in taking charge of each class of observations. Mr. Stevens will at first take charge of the astronomical, whilst Captain Remenyi will have care of the magnetic, and thereafter alternate each day. Both will assist in these branches of labor, and freely confer with and consult each other. Mr. B. F. Kendall, who is expected to arrive shortly, and one sapper, will be assigned to Mr. Stevens, and one sapper and Mr. Yekelfoleusy will assist Captain Remenyi. Messrs. Stevens and Remenyi are expected to instruct their respective assistants in the astro- nomical and magnetic observations, the use of instruments, and each to make a daily report in writing, while in camp, of their observations and labors, particularly stating the progress each man makes under their instructions, with the view to ascertain the character of the duties which such assistants are best adapted to perform. ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory, in Command of Expedition. No; 15, [Orper No. 3.] Camp Prercn, May 31, 1853. Mr. Tinkham, with his civil engineers, will move off at 12 o’clock, with one common wagon, (to be replaced hereafter by a spring-wagon,) and the second mule team brought up on the Shenandoah, four well broken riding-mules, one good teamster, provisions for fifteen days, forage for five days, one wall and one common tent, two Colt’s revolvers, two Sharp’s and two ordinary rifles, with the necessary ammunition. Captain ca diner will have Mr. Tinkham fitted out as above, so that he may move snemtnly at 12 o’clock. ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory, in Command of Expedition. No. 16. [Orprr No. 4.] Camp Pierce, May 31, 1853. If practicable, six wagons, with stores not needed till the main body reaches the crossing of the Mississippi, above Sauk rapids, will move early to-morrow morning, in charge of a suitable person to be designated by Captain Gardiner, should the weather be propitious ; it will be well to load the wagons, and do something towards breaking in the animals to-day. Instructions have been given to Mr. Lander to make arrangements for the crossing of the Mississippi, and the wagonmaster will, if practicable, move his animals across the river, and place them in a good camping ground to await the arrival of the main body. Suitable arms and ammunition will be issued to the train, and good care must be taken of the stores. ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory, in Command of Expedition. 46 ORDERS. Nov a7 [Orprr No. 5.] Camp Pierce, June 5, 1853. Arrangements will be made to move camp on Monday morning, and every exertion will be made to reach Sauk rapids on Friday, and cross the river on Saturday. The officers and gentlemen of the scientific corps will take the boat at the Falls on Monday, which will enable them to reach Sauk rapids on Tuesday evening; one wagon, and the riding- mule of each person of the party, will accompany them. An astronomical and magnetic station will be established west of the Sauk rapids. ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory, in Command of Expedition. No. 18. [Orpr No. 6.] Camp Davis, near Sauk Rapids. There will be an inspection of camp at 10 o’clock this morning. This will include an inspec- tion of personal baggage and camp equipage, and property of all descriptions. The officers of scientific corps, the dragoon detachment, and the quartermasters, will be drawn up. Lieutenant Du Barry will make the necessary arrangements, and give the proper notifi- cations. ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory, in Command of Eapedition. No. 19. [Orper No. 7.] Camp Davis, June 13, 1853. For purposes of convenience in detailing guards, and to give a military organization to the entire expedition, the following gentlemen are appointed to the grade of lieutenant: Isaac T. Osgood, J. M. Stanley, A. W. Tinkham, F. W. Lander, A. Remenyi, G. W. Stevens, John Lambert. The following assimilated to the grade of non-commissioned officers: Joseph F. Moffett, James: Doty, James Evelyn, James Gear, B. F. Kendall, Thomas Adams, M. Strobel, Yekel- foleusy, Simpson, Higgins, E, Evans. The remainder will be detailed with artificers, and privates of sappers and miners, and pri- vates of dragoons. The medical (Dr. Suckley’s) position is assimilated to that of an assistant surgeon in the army, and dates from the period of his joining the expedition. The parties organized under the several chiefs will, on coming together, preserve their dis- tinctive organization ; the chief of the expedition—in his absence the senior officer present— regulating the general mode of encampment, police, and supervising the details of guard. The principle of the foregoing encampment must be complied with. It is considered of great consequence that the several trains should not be intermingled; and the dragoons attached to the several parties will continue with them, camping and working with them, receiving their orders only from their particular chiefs, even when the whole force is brought together. ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory, in Command of Expedition. ve er ORDERS. 47 No. 20. [Orpnr No. 8.] Camp near Licutyine Laken, July 19, 1853. The most rigid economy in the consumption of provisions being necessary, the caterer of each mess will carefully note, in a book kept for the purpose, the daily amount consumed of the various articles constituting the ration, which book shall be daily inspected by the chief of each party. Whilst in the game country the quantity of pork and bacon must be diminished. Where the supply of game and fish is sufficient to furnish as much as each man can eat, the quantity of pork and bacon should be reduced to the minimum—one-eighth of a pound a day. Caterers of messes are enjoined also to note the amount of game, fish, &c., furnished to their respective messes. When parties come together, the hunters and guides will report to the chief of the expedi- tion, or, in his absence, to the senior officer. The reason for this is obvious: they are employed to benefit the whole expedition, and this course will insure the best result in procuring and securing an equitable distribution of supphes. . It is made the duty of the senior officer to see that the game is equitably distributed, as between the parties, and of the chief of each party between the several messes. IS@5 ZAlle [ORpER No. 9.] Norruern Pactric Ramroap ExpLoratioN AND SURVEY, + 9° N. W. Fort Union Camp, August 16, 1853. The most careful attention to animals is enjoined upon all persons engaged in the expedition, and will be rigidly enforced. The animals must not go beyond a walk, except in case of necessity ; and each mounted man must walk some four or five miles each day to rest his animal, unless it be impracticable, in consequence of his duties. At halts, men must dismount. This direction will be enforced, as well in regard to private as to public animals. J. I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory, in Command of Expedition. [Orper No. 10.] NortHern Pacrric RarmRoad EXpLoRATION AND SURVEY, Camp Atchison, Mouth of Milk River, August 19, 1853. Tn addition to the regular nightly guard, there will, commencing with to-day, be hereafter detailed one non-commissioned officer and four sentinels, who shall constitute a day guard, and whose duties shall be regulated as follows: 1. The detail shall be made from a roster, consisting of all persons who now go on guard as non-commissioned officers, who shall be detailed, in turn, as non-commissioned officers of this day guard, and of all persons who are now subject to detail as sentinels, who shall be detailed, in turn, as sentinels of the day guard; except that the chief wagonmasters, the persons in charge of the horses and of the pack-train, the carpenters and blacksmiths, and the cooks, shall be excused from this duty. 2. The tour of the day guard shall commence when the sentinels of the night guard are taken off post in the morning, and shall terminate when those sentinels go on post in the evening. They shall be divided into reliefs, and regularly posted, prior to leaving camp in the morning, and after encamping in the afternoon, as well as at halts made during the day. 3. The officer of the guard on any night shall have charge of the guard of the subsequent 48 ORDERS. day, and shall enforce the orders in reference thereto. The two guards should otherwise be kept separate and distinct. The day guard should be so arranged that it shall include no person who may be on the night guard; and the day tour ought, if possible, to be intermediate between two of his night tours. ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory, in Charge of Eapedition. No. 22. [Orver No. 12.] Nortuprn Pactric Rartroap Survey, Camp Atchison, Mouth of Milk River, August 20, 1853. On the march the train will keep as much together as possible ; the speed of the wagons will be regulated by Governor Stevens’s ambulance or wagon, or by the instrument wagon. The acting quartermaster will regulate the pace of the leading team in such a manner that all other teams can keep up without forcing the mules. No person except guides, or those having per- mission, will precede the train by more than one-fourth of a mile, or go farther from it than that distance, unless in case of necessity, or for the performaace of some duty. ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory, in Charge of Expedition. [OrpEeR No, 13.] Camp No. —, Mmx River, September 1, 1853. The undersigned, on the part of the government, of the chief of the expedition, and for him- self, as being directly responsible, returns thanks to the members of this party for the energy and promptitude they displayed in taking precautionary measures against the prairie fires on the night of the 30th and morning of the 31st of August. A. J. DONELSON, Lieutenant Engineers, Executive Officer. No. 24. [Orprer No. 14.] Camp No. —, Mink River, September 1, 1853. I. No animal should go beyond a walk, except in case of necessity. No man should leave the line without permission of the officer in charge. II. The mules and horses, after being watered, are to be picketed within the line of tents and wagons, at the first bugle-call after coming into camp; oxen to be hobbled at the same time. Daily reports of animals to be rendered to the quartermaster, according to the following pro- gramme: 1. Report to be rendered immediately after the animals are picketed in the evening. 2. The report to state the number and condition of the animals, and whether they have been properly picketed. 3. Mr. Higgins to report concerning all the animals at present under his charge, including that ridden by the cook of the teamster’s mess; Mr. French, concerning all loose horses, those ridden by persons of his party, those ridden by the hunters, and that of the cook of his mess; Mr. Pearson to report concerning all mules, horses, and oxen belonging to the cart train ; Sergeant Collins and Sergeant Lindner, concerning all mules and horses ridden ORDERS. 49 respectively by sappers and dragoons; Mr. Simpson to report upon all loose mules, all mules ridden by persons of his party, including that of the cook of his mess and those driven in the carts. The other reports to be rendered by messes, the chief of each to report concerning the horses and mules ridden by persons of the mess, including cooks and attendants, and excepting any which are to be accounted for by other persons. 4. The persons in charge, or who render the above reports, are also held responsible for a compliance, both in camp and on the march, with all the orders in reference to animals. 5. The quartermaster will, in the evening, after receiving the above reports, state in general terms their substance to the senior officer present. III. Extra issues of flour are not to be made, except in reference to the chief of the expedition, or, inhis absence, to the senior officer present. IV. No changes will be made in the employment of persons, or in the use of animals which come under the charge of the quartermaster, except by his permission, and he will report any such changes to the senior officer as soon after they are made as practicable. The quarter- master will also report to the senior officer prior to the abandonment of any portion of the train, or in cases of a similar nature which may arise. No changes will be made in the employment of persons, or in the use of the animals not under the direction of the quartermaster, except by permission of the senior officer present. V. While in camp, no person will fire within one hundred yards of the line of wagons and tents. No person will fire while on the march without special permission of the senior officer present. All persons are required to keep within at least a quarter of a mile of the wagon train, except those who belong to the cart train, which is generally separate, unless they leave for the performance of some duty, or by special permission. This requires that all persons should halt when the train does, and leave camp, and halt, at the same time with it. VI. Every one riding, or having charge of horses and mules, is required to take every pre- caution for preserving them in good order and condition, dismounting at halt, taking the bits from the animals’ mouths when occasion offers for grazing, and resting them by walking some portion of every day’s march. So much of the order now in existence as requires the walking to take place immediately after the noon halt is, for the present, suspended. On account of the danger of losing animals by Indians, the greatest vigilance is required on the part of guard and sentinels, and the greatest care on the part of those who have charge of picketing the mules and horses. VIL. The foregoing—partly new orders, partly orders already in existence—are here published in order that every one may know what is required of him, and what restrictions are adopted for the safety and good order of the train while in camp and on the march. A. J. DONELSON, Lieutenant Engineers, Senior Officer. ENDORSEMENTS ON THE ABOVE. This order, which is no more nor less than a salutary and reasonable restriction, imposed for the general good on every person of the command, must hereafter be obeyed. As a matter of course, the senior officer present with the train is responsible for the orderly march thereof. Every person having the command, assimilated or otherwise, of a body of men, is responsible that they obey orders, and all persons who are not under the command or charge of any second person, are directly accountable for a compliance with existing orders to the senior officer actually present with the train. A. J. DONELSON, Lieutenant Engineers, Senior Officer. th 50 ORDERS. Camp No. 59, September 3, 1853. The within orders not having been carried by the orderly to all the persons concerned, they are now sent around again. Attention is called to the paragraph in reference to firing on the march. While no objection exists to hunting or shooting game where those wishing to do so are, by permission or on duty, away from the line, it is manifestly injurious to the service that the march of a line of 80 men and 192 animals should be exposed to accident or delay by per- sons firing indiscriminately at game which may come near the train, particularly when there are hunters whose duty it is to kill and bring in fresh meat. [Orper No. 15.] Camp No. 60, September 5, 1853. To-morrow morning, before starting, and after the mules are hitched to the wagons, all the horses and mules which are ridden, as well as all loose horses and mules, will be arranged in a line for being inspected. The team mules and oxen will be inspected while they are harnessed up. The cooks will be awakened at daybreak ; the animals will be turned loose to graze at the same time ; breakfast will be at 53 o'clock, tents strnck and teams harnessed at six. A. J. DONELSON, Lieutenant Engineers, Bxecutive Officer. No. 26. [Orper No. 16.] Camp Dossrn, NEAR Fort Benton, September 9, 1853. In obedience to the assignment of the chief of the expedition, as expressed in instructions dated the 7th instant, and received this day, the undersigned hereby assumes charge of the party for the survey of the railroad route from this point, through Cadotte’s Pass, to the St. Mary’s village, as designated in said instructions, or in others of a similar nature. This party consists of the following persons, viz: Lieutenant A. J. Donelson, in charge; Dr. George Suckley, surgeon and naturalist; Mr. A. W. Tinkham, estimating engineer; Mr. G. W. Stevers, astronomer; Mr. John Lambert, in charge of odometer survey; Mr. Joseph F. Moffett, meteorologist, &c. ; Mr. James Doty, assist- ant astronomer; Mr. Thomas Adams, assistant artist; Mr. B. F. Kendall, assistant to quarter- master; Mr. P. Higgins, wagonmaster; Mr. James Simpson, pack-master and in charge of loose mules; Mr. Henry Pierson, assistant wagonmaster; Mr. French, in charge of loose horses ; Mr. West, carrying chronometers ; Sergeant Collins, sapper, assistant in odometer survey ; Artisan Davis, sapper, assistant to meteorologist; Artisan Lynt, sapper, assistant to meteorologist; Artisan Smith, sapper, second assistant on odometer survey; Private Broadwell, sapper, assist- ant to meteorologist ; Private Horner, sapper, assistant to Dr. Suckley; Private Roche, sapper, assistant to Mr. Stevens; Private Wilson, sapper, assistant to Mr. Doty; Sergeant Lindner, dragoon, commissary sergeant and assistant guide; Corporal Roaster, dragoon, assistant com- missary sergeant and assistant guide; Corporal Coster, dragoon, in charge of howitzer; Cor- poral Lake, dragoon, in command of rear guard; Corporal Chowming, dragoon, in charge of pitching and striking tents; Private Magruder, dragoon, on detail for tents; Privates Ashcroft, Dittman, Otes, Hoggins, Smith, Donavan, Goerkey, Gauss, Flinn, Magahran, and Maxfield; Teamsters McGee and Wilson, Lieutenant Donelson’s team; Teamsters McGinnis, Bell, and Monroe, Mr. Osgood’s team; Teamsters Gear and Agnew, instrument wagon; Teamsters Davis, Bracken, Saint Louis, Dume, Winn, and Mitchelle; Saddler, Michelback; Blacksmith, Bashall; ORDERS.—CAMP REGULATIONS. 51 Pelissier and Camartin, in charge of loose mules; Benoit, Duprey, Corri, Seeley, Nye, Farnham, Simpson, jr., Dauphin, William, Hudson, Osborne Ist, Osborne 2d, George Smith, Hugh Robie, and Baptiste; Indian Yellow Hair, guide. A. J. DONELSON, Lieutenant Engineers, in Command. [OrpER No. 17.] Camp Dogsin, September 11, 1853. The quartermaster having reported that the repairs and other arrangements which were re- quired would be completed this day, the scientific parties and the train will start for the Flat- head village as early as possible to-morrow morning. Attention is called to the orders which exist in reference to duties in camp and on the march. These must hereafter be obeyed. Per- sons in charge are held responsible for those who compose their parties ; thus the quartermaster is responsible for all employed in that department, Mr. Higgins for the teamsters, Mr. Simpson for the packers, &c. The principal of the orders are herewith sent around by the orderly to the chiefs of parties, and their contents will by them be communicated to those under their charge. The portion of the command which has been designated as an advance, will, for reasons growing out of the approach of Lieutenant Saxton and return of Lieutenant Grover, for the present accompany the main train. A. J. DONELSON, Tieutenant Engineers, in Command. No. 28. CAMP REGULATIONS. 1, There is no such thing as an escort to this expedition. Hach man is escorted by every other man. The chiefs of the scientific corps will equally with the officers of the army act as officers of the guard. The aids will assist in this duty equally with the non-commissioned officers of the sappers and miners, and of the dragoon detachment. The quartermaster em- ployés will stand guard equally with the privates, and sappers and miners, and dragoons. It is confidently believed, that every member of the expedition will cheerfully do his duty in promoting all the objects of the expedition, sharing its toils of every description. 2. Each man of the expedition will habitually go armed. The chief of each party and de- tachment will rigidly inspect arms each morning and evening. Except in extraordinary cases, there shall be no march on Sunday. On that day there will be a thorough inspection of persons and things. Clothes should be washed and mended, and, if water can be found, each man will be required to bathe his whole person. This course is taken to secure health. 3. The Indian country will be reached in ten days, There is no danger to be apprehended, except from the want of vigilance of guards, and the carelessness of single men. The chief of a party or detachment will inspect the guard from time to time in the night, and report every case of inattention to duty. 4. It will be the habitual rule of each member of the scientific corps to take charge of his own horse, and to take from and place in the wagon his own personal baggage. As private servants are not allowed, the necessity of this rule will be apparent. There are exceptional cases, however, as the chief of a party, or where great labor has to be performed. 5. There will be no firing of any description, either in camp or on the march, except by the 52 LETTERS TO CAPT. GARDINER AND TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR. hunters and guides, and certain members of the scientific corps, without permission of the chief of the expedition, or, in case of detachments, of the officer in charge of the detachment. No: 29: Camp Pierce, June 3, 1853. Dear Sir: It is with great regret that I learn from your letter of this date, enclosing the certificate of Dr. Suckley, the medical officer of the expedition, that in consequence of your health you are obliged to ask to be relieved from duty with the expedition under my command. LT have looked forward to your co-operation as a great element in the success of the expedi- tion, bringing as it would the very experience to the work in which the other officers associated with us and myself are deficient. But I see no alternative, observing as I have done the state of your health, with your application, and the certificate of Dr. Suckley before me, than promptly to comply with your request. You may be sure I shall never forget the lively interest you have taken in the success of the expedition, the exertion you have made to forward it, and your efficient assistance in making the preparations for the field. You are accordingly relieved from the duty with the command, and are directed to repair to Washington city and report for duty. ([Unimportant paragraph omitted. ] I will personally discharge the duties of quartermaster and commissary of the expedition, and will sign the necessary papers whenever they shall be prepared. Truly your friend, ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory, in Command of Expedition. Capt. J. W. T. Garpiner, First Dragoons, U. S. Army. NorrHern Pacrric Ramroap ExpLoratioN AND SuRVEY, Olympia, W. T., December 5, 1853, Sm: Ihave the honor to report my arrival at this place, and to submit the following state- ment of operations since my report from Fort Benton. Before entering upon the narrative, it will be proper for me to state that I feel the greatest satisfaction at the complete success of the exploration, and that the report will show an amount of work reflecting the highest credit upon my associates. No disaster or untoward circumstance has marred the work. ‘The parties have reached the Columbia river in the highest spirits—no man broken down by over-exertion or unnecessary exposure. The three great western ranges have been crossed in the fall; no snow whatever seen, except on the topmost peaks till the last days of October, and then only for a few inches, passing away in two or three days. I can pronounce, with the greatest confidence, the route to be eminently practicable; and in so doing, I feel repaid for the great exertions I have made, and the great anxiety which at times has almost overcome me, in preparing for and conducting the exploration. I am confident that when our contributions in the way of general geography, and in the development of the resources and character of the country passed over, are given to the public, it will be conceded that a public advantage has accrued far outweigh- ing the expenditure, even should other railroad routes be finally determined on. Moreover, the exploration has been a vital element in the management of the Indian tribes, restraining their predatory habits, and disposing them to rely upon the general government to guaranty to them peace and protect them in their rights. In the narrative of operations which I shall now present, the several letters of instructions will be referred to, and copies of the same given in an appendix; and such results will be stated as can be relied on, previous to a careful analysis and comparison of all the data in the office. LETTER TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR. 53 In my report from Fort Benton, my reasons were given for pushing all the parties through Cadotte’s Pass, and for abandoning the examination of the Marias. Previous, however, to this conclusion, Lieutenant Mullan had set out from Fort Benton to visit the Flathead camp on the Muscle Shell river, and thence to explore a more southern route to the St. Marv’s valley. Lieutenant Donelson moved from his camp on the Teton river, September 16, and pressed forward vigorously to his work, with two efficient civil engineer parties under Messrs. Lander and Tinkham for side reconnaissance and the general estimate, and an odometer party under that most able topographer, Mr. Lambert. I remained at Fort Benton till Mr. Stanley returned, on the 20th September, with a large delegation of the Blackfeet Indians, when a most amicable and satisfactory council was held with them on the next day, at which they agreed to respect all whites travelling through their country, to cease sending their war parties against the neighboring tribes, and to submit to the Great Father the settlement of their difficulties. One of their principal chiefs, Low Hone, in a speech of great eloquence and power, implored his people, now for the first time they had experienced the protecting care of the Great Father, to listen to his words; and he commanded them to abide by the promises just made in council. He desired me to say to all the Indians west of the mountains that the Blackfeet were no longer their enemies, and that they desired to meet them in council at Fort Benton next year. This I deem a measure essential to establishing a general peace, and have, in a communication to the Commissioner of Indian Affairs, earnestly recommended it. This business brought to so satisfactory a conclusion on the 21st September, I set out early on the 22d with a select party, consisting of Mr. Stanley, the artist, Mr. Osgood, the disbursing agent, and Dr. Suckley, our surgeon, who, leaving Lieutenant Donelson’s command to visit the falls, was not able to rejoin it, and returned to Fort Benton. Messrs. Evans and Kendall, two young gentlemen, kept behind to assist me in my correspondence, and five voyageurs and an Indian guide ; and camping with Lieutenant Donelson at the end of the fourth day, I reached the St. Mary’s village at noon on the 28th instant, making a distance of about two hundred and forty-three miles in six and a half days. Lieutenant Donelson reached the village on the 29th instant, and Lieutenant Mullan on the 30th. In Lieutenant Donelson’s exploration of the route from Fort Benton to the St. Mary’s village, Mr. Lander was very successful in approach- ing the mountains high up at the Marias river, and towards the sources of the Teton, Medicine, and Dearborn rivers, and entered the mountains, finding in each case excellent railroad cross- ings, and crossed the dividing ridge some miles north of the pass pursued by both Lieutenants Donelson and Saxton, bringing with him an excellent railroad line to the junction of the two routes in the main pass. As regards both entrances to the pass, a small tunnel will be required in each case—not, however, exceeding one mile in length; and the grades approach- ing the passes will not probably exceed forty or forty-five feet per mile. The descent down the Hell Gate river was mostly through an open valley, till the Hell Gate passage is reached, where the river winds in a narrow defile, requiring for a railroad expensive sustaining walls and embankments, and probably some small tunnels to avoid short curves. It is practicable, though expensive, for a railroad. It can be turned, however, two ways: Ist, by tunnelling a marble mountain south of it on the route of Lieutenant Saxton, and in relation to which I shall soon receive a report; and, 2d, by crossing over from a tributary of the Hell Gate in the open valley of the pass to the valley of the river Jocko, one of the principal southern tributaries of Clark’s fork. Mr. Tinkham was assigned by Lieutenant Donelson to this duty, and with his detached party left the main party on the 26th September, with instructions to reach Fort Benton in six days. Reserving to a future paragraph a notice of this important side route of Mr. Tinkham, I will notice Lieutenant Mullan’s route; simply stating that the two routes come together at the Hell Gate passage, and that the St. Mary’s valley affords an excellent railroad line, not only to the St. Mary’s village, but high up towards its source. 54 LETTER TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR. Lieutenant Mullan, as the department has already been advised, left Fort Benton on the 9th instant, and struck the Muscle Shell river on the 13th. After following the trail of the Flat- head camp eastward twenty miles to a pond, and thence twenty miles farther in a southeastern direction, over a rough and difficult country, he found it still five days ahead of him, and deter- mined to place his party in camp, and with his Indian guide follow on the trail. The Flathead camp was found sixty or seventy miles distant, in a beautiful valley, and he was received with the greatest hospitality. Four of the principal chiefs agreed to accompany him to the St. Mary’s village. His route was by the north fork of the Muscle Shell, thence by an excellent prairie road to Smith’s river, which flows into the Missouri in a northeasterly direction, and which he followed for a considerable distance; when finding it to lead too far to the north, he left it and crossed to the Missouri over an easy divide, and struck it at a point where a most excel- lent road led westward some twenty miles to the dividing ridge, whence rises the main fork of the Bitter Root river. This dividing ridge he crossed the second day after leaving the Missouri, the divide being only four hundred feet high and three miles across, and proving the only diffi- cult point of passage in his route from Fort Benton. Thence his route was by the Blackfoot fork of the St. Mary’s river, and the St. Mary’s river to Fort Owen. The valleys open the whole distance, except in the case of a single mountain shutting down upon the river bank, and making a light side cutting necessary to a good wagon road, and the grades scarcely percepti- ble either for rails or wagons the whole distance. Immediately on reaching the St. Mary’s village, Lieutenant Arnold, in charge of the post left there by Lieutenant Saxton, sent for Victor, the Flathead chief, (the small remnant of the tribe not on the hunt east of the mountains, and in camp some forty miles down the river,) for a conference in reference to the condition of the tribe, its disposition towards meeting the Blackfeet in council, and to communicate the determination of the government to protect them in their rights. A portion of the camp moved up to the village and met the chiefs who accom- panied Lieutenant Mullan. Victor, however, was absent on business to the Cceur d’ Alene mission, and I did not meet him for some days. The conference was satisfactory, and impressed me very favorably as regards the truthfulness and worth of these Indians. The spirit of my conference, as well as that of Lieutenant Mullan, will appear from my instructions to him at Fort Benton, which have already been communicated to the department, and his report, a copy of which I herewith enclose. I will particnlarly call your attention to his account of the fertile valleys of the Muscle Shell and Smith’s rivers, to the mild climate west of the Missouri, and the rich and abundant grass on the whole route. The same luxuriance of the grasses is every- where found in the valleys of the Rocky mountains and the adjacent prairies. On my arrival at Fort Owen, the importance of establishing the winter post already deter- mined upon was only the more apparent, and fifteen men were placed on duty with Lieutenant Mullan. Unfortunately but few of the animals left by Lieutenant Saxton were fit for service, and were all needed for the parties going westward over the Coeur d’ Alene mountains. The remaining animals were, however, gradually improving, and would, it was believed, furnish Lieutenant Mullan in the course of ten weeks the means of running a line down to Fort Hall to connect our surveys with those of I'rémont. By referring to a copy of his instruc- tions, herewith enclosed and marked 2, it will be seen that he has likewise had assigned to him the duty of extending the survey northward, of making all possible examination of the passes, and to occupy a meteorological post during the winter. Very good specimens of gold have been found in the St. Mary’s valley, and Lieutenant Mullan’s attention has been specially called to it in these instructions. Lieutenant Donelson was placed in command of the principal party with the civil engineer Mr. Lander, and Lieutenant Arnold associated with Mr. Stevens in the astronomical obser- vations, and also in charge of a separate party for side reconnaissance. It was now important to give such directions to the operations as to insure a connection between the eastern and western divisions of the survey; and whilst Lieutenant Donelson was moving along the general LETTER TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR, 55 line of Clark’s fork, I determined with a little party, consisting of Mr. Stanley, Mr. Osgood, and four men, to push over the Coeur d’ Alene mountains by the Coeur d’ Alene mission, and thence to proceed to Colville to bring about a connection. To guard against Captain McClellan passing us, Lieutenant Donelson was instructed to send Lieutenant Arnold to Colville from the crossing of Clark’s fork by the northern trail, and to repair to the Spokane house, on the Spokane river, to receive additional instructions. He was directed in his instructions to Lieu- tenant Arnold to provide for his not meeting Captain McClellan or receiving instructions from me, and was likewise directed, in case of a similar experience on his own part, to push forward on his own route, either by Wallah-Wallah or the valley of the Yakima, and thence over the military road to Nisqually, taking the precaution, however, to communicate in any event with Wallah-Wallah for instructions. I likewise determined to assign that resolute and intelligent civil engineer, Mr. Tinkham, to the duty of examining the Marias Pass, of returning by the main Flathead trail to St. Mary’s, thence by the southern Nez Perces trail to Wallah-Wallah, and thence on the military road to Nisqually and Olympia. To bring about a thorough understanding as to the mutual relations of the work intrusted to Lieutenant Mullan and Mr. Doty, on the two sides of the Rocky mountains, it seemed to me important that Mr. Doty should accompany Mr. Tinkham to St. Mary’s to confer with Lieuten- ant Mullan, and then to return by a known trail to Fort Benton. This general plan being determined upon, the necessary verbal instructions were given to Lieutenants Donelson and Mullan on their arrival. Under Lieutenant Donelson’s instructions, Mr. Lander was assigned to the duty of exploring the whole of the St. Mary’s valley, and of meeting the main party in the Horse Plain, nearly opposite the confluence of the two streams. But a serious embarrassment now occurred in consequence of the non-arrival of Mr. Tinkham. Fortunately, all the parties had a common route down the valley for some thirty odd miles to opposite Hell Gate. On the 2d instant they were all in motion, with an extra supply of pro- visions for Mr. Tinkham’s party, in charge of three men of Lieutenant Mullan’s command, and proceeded in slow marches down the valley. We were in camp opposite Hell Gate on the 5th instant, and I then determined the next day to push forward Lieutenant Donelson and remain in camp till Mr. Tinkham’s party returned, or some decisive steps could be taken to recover it. It was obvious to my mind that Mr. Tinkham had got involved in a difficult, perhaps imprac- ticable country, as he took no guide with him, and my great fear was that he might suffer for want of food. Accordingly, that evening I despatched a Flathead guide to Fort Owen, with instructions to Lieutenant Mullan to come to my camp with additional provisions and men; and in a conference with Victor, who had now returned from the mission, secured the services of good Flathead guides. Lieutenant Donelson and Mr. Lander moved off on the sixth; but scarcely had Lieutenant Mullan reached my camp, about four in the afternoon, before Mr. Tinkham came in. The provisions had held out, and the route examined by him had an important bearing on our railroad question. In the absence of Lieutenant Donelson’s written report, and the barometric profile, I can only say that it will probably furnish a practicable mode of avoiding the Hell Gate defile, and of passing from the valley of the pass to that of Clark’s fork. The trail not being much in use, was difficult to follow, and the party frequently became entangled in boggy ground and dense thickets. They finally struck into a valley passing between impracticable mountains, and so crowded with wood that their route had to be cut. They proceeded down the valley to near Clark’s fork, and then succeeded in crossing over to the valley of the Jocko river, where a much-used trail led to the St. Mary’s valley. In his course Mr. Tinkham passed by a winter post of the Hudson’s Bay Company, and fell in with a small party of Indians. The same evening Mr. Tinkham made his arrangements to reach Lieutenant Donelson’s camp the next day, and exchange his tired animals for fresh ones, He started on his duty 56 LETTER TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR. with the greatest alacrity, and will, I am confident, do most thoroughly the work intrusted to his charge. I omitted to mention in the proper place that Dr. Suckley was directed to remain at the valley with a small party of the men to complete his specimens in natural history, and then to _ go down the St. Mary’s, Clark’s fork, and Columbia river, in a boat, continuing the collection of the animals, and making the best survey his limited means would allow. For my addi- tional instructions to Lieutenant Donelson, Dr. Suckley, Mr. Tinkham, and Mr. Doty, and for additional instructions to Lieutenant Grover, see appendices 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7. On the 7th my little party was in motion, and on the 12th I reached the Cceur d’ Alene mission. The route on the mountain was much obstructed by fallen timber, and at times passed through dense underbrush. Mr. Stanley made a most excellent survey of the route; but the want of instruments rendered it impossible to get the barometric profile. Two streams having their sources in lakes only half a mile apart, flow due east and west in opposite directions from the route. The ascent is along the stream to within about five miles of the dividing ridge, when the trail rises two thousand feet, by estimation, in that distance, and thence passing along the ridge of a spur for a considerable distance, falls suddenly at least two thousand five hundred feet. Its course thence to the mission is generally along the river called by the Jesuit fathers St. Ignatius, but known more generally as the Coeur d’ Alene. We camped within one mile of the top of the mountain on the nights of the 10th and 11th November in a rain-storm, and looked forward to snow in the morning; but, to our agreeable surprise, we awoke to the clearest skies and the most genial breezes we ever experienced. Not a cloud was to be seen. The vast solitude of the Coeur d’ Alene mountains covered with heavy forest trees, the Rocky mountains in the far east, and the Kootenaies mountains to the north in British territory, formed a coup d’wil imposing and magnificent. The slow and lazily rising belts and lines of fog indicated the position of the lakes and streams. A year ago, at this very time, the blasts of winter howled in these solitudes, and the drifting and rapidly filing snow completely obstructed the traveller. Whether this route will come into competition with that by Clark’s fork can age be determined by more accurate observation than we were able to make. It is probable that by following up on either side the stream itself, the length of the tunnel could be reduced to six and perhaps four miles without involving impracticable grades: it will considerably abridge the distance; but the difficulties from snow should be carefully investigated. The route was good in grass even on the mountain tops, except for some miles in the valley of the Coeur d’Alene, It is a favorite route of the Spokanes and Nez Perces on their way to the buffalo hunt. At the Cour d’Alene mission I got no information as to Captain McClellan; but from a Cayuse Indian who reached the mission the day my people rested there, I learned of the arrival of a party from the mountains, which I supposed to be Lieutenant Macfeely’s, and of thirty-five emigrant wagons having started on the new military road to Steilacoom. On the 15th of October I left the Coeur d’Alene mission, where I was most hospitably entertained by the Father Gazzile, and proceeded down the Coeur d’ Alene river on my way to Colville. Various rumors reached me as to parties moving through the country, but nothing of a definite shape till about noon on the 18th of that month, when within fifty miles of Colville an old Spokane, only four days from the Yakima country, joined me, and gave me information that a party of some thirty men had reached the Columbia opposite to Colville the day before, and would cross that day. This satisfied me that by pushing to Colville that night I would join Captain McClellan before he moved to the eastward, and thus at once combine all the operations. Securing two good, fresh, fat Indian horses and an Indian guide, I started at two o'clock, and succeeded in reaching Colville at nine, and in a few moments the information in all its parts was completely verified, and Captain McClellan and myself were congratulating each other upon our most fortunate meeting. Not a word had we heard of each other since the LETTER TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR, 57 9th May, when he received my instructions, and when, in conversation, Colville was referred to as a probable point where he would first get information of the eastern parties. We reached Colville the same day, the 18th October. You have already received a communication from Captain McClellan stating the principal facts in regard to the Nahchess and Snoqualme Passes, and his action in regard to the military road. Reserving to a future communication a more full report of his work, I will state that he found the country erroneously laid down on the maps, and that the country north of the Sno- qualme Pass is very rugged, the mountains in many cases extending to the Columbia river. Very little information of the country was obtained from the Indians as Captain McClellan went north; but all the streams were examined towards their sources till the ascent became several hundred feet per mile, and the ground thoroughly explored to above the 49th parallel. Good railroad crossings of the Columbia river have been found above the mouth of the Yakima, I apprehend no difficulty whatever in the Snoqualme Pass to the passage of a railroad; and from information I have received from old residents here, particularly from Major Golds- borough, a civil engineer who has examined carefully the country, it will be an easy matter to carry it to a good harbor on the sound. Through Garry, the Spokane chief, a man of education, of strict probity, and great influence over his tribe, I sent Indian runners to Lieutenant Donelson, appointing a little valley south of the Spokane river, near the junction of the routes from Colville and Lieutenant Donelson’s place of crossing Clark’s fork to Wallah-Wallah, as the place for bringing together both divisions ; designing, if the state of the animals and the condition of the instruments would authorize it, to continue, under the direction of Captain McClellan, the odometer survey over the Cascades to Puget sound, and submitting that portion of the route to the inspection and estimate of Mr. Lander, one of the civil engineers. It was also designed to send a small party across the Columbia a little above the mouth of the Snake river, and follow the north bank of the Columbia to the Dalles and Vancouver. The remainder of the party were to proceed to Wallah-Wallah and the Dalles, and then receive instructions as to the discharge of men and the arrangement for office-work. The juncture was effected on the 28th October, Captain McClellan and myself reaching the camp, which I named Camp Washington, only the day before Lieutenant Donelson ; and the greatest joy was in every heart at the unlooked for and extraordinary good fortune which had attended every step of the exploration. The meeting of parties from the Mississippi and the Pacific in the passes of the mountains and in the valleys of the interior, on the great railroad routes, each in the vigorous examina- tion of his part of the work, and to within a single day; the peaceful relations which had been established with all the Indian tribes, the health, good conduct, and harmony of action of all the men engaged in the difficult fields of this exploration, extending over a sphere of country two thousand miles long by two to four hundred wide, and the admirable and triumphant solution of the great railroad problem intrusted to our hands, repaid each man for his arduous labors, and relieved all minds of further doubt and anxiety. Two barometers only now remained, and the animals were thin and leg-weary from their long labors. The known want of grass for some three days, immediately west of the Cascades, required grain to be taken along, which could not be procured, and the lines, already extended through the two practicable passes, could be taken up on reaching Puget sound and carried to a good harbor. Accordingly, in an order which is marked 8 in the appendix, I sent the whole force to Wallah-Wallah and the Dalles. Lieutenant Donelson reports the route from the debouche of the pass at Hell Gate to the banks of the Spokane, at the junction of the route from Colville, and that one by the Coeur d’Alene mountains, taken by me as practicable for a road, involving no other difficulties than are usually met with in the Atlantic States, and that it will well connect with a route through the Marias Pass, should a practicable one be ascertained by Mr. Tinkham. The grass generally on his af 58 LETTER TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR, route was good, there having been a scarcity only two nights. He fitted out Mr. Tinkham’s party for this difficult work to his entire satisfaction, and at the last crossing of Clark’s fork he despatched, in conformity with my instructions, Lieutenant Arnold to Fort Colville, with a thoroughly organized detached party, with instruments for the determination of the barometric profile and the latitude. At Colville I left instructions to Lieutenant Arnold to place his ani- mals and most of his men in camp, to ascend the main Columbia in canoes to the 49th parallel, and there ascertain the important facts of the geography, and to send word by Indian runners to Dr. Suckley to cross by land from the Pend d’Oreille mission to Colville, the navigation thence to Colville being dangerous and almost impracticable ; and I left it discretionary with Lieutenant Arnold to go to Wallah-Wallah from Colville either by land, along its left bank, or in boats, leaving also Dr. Suckley a like discretion in reference to my original instructions. For my instructions to Lieutenant Arnold, see paper 9 from Colville, (this paper has been mislaid,) paper 10 from Camp Washington; and to Dr. Suckley, see paper 11, also from Camp Washington. I will here observe that on the route from St. Mary’s valley I met many Pend d’ Oreille Indians, and took measures which I trust secured Dr. Suckley an Indian guide the whole distance from Fort Owen to the Pend d’Oreille mission. I also was able to do something towards bringing into relations with Lieutenant Mullan all the Indians going to the buffalo hunt. They have a common route through the St. Mary’s valley, and pass within a short dis- tance of Fort Owen. In a letter received from Lieutenant Arnold by the Hudson’s Bay express, and which is given in paper 12 in the appendix, (this has been mislaid,) I learned that he reached Colville with his party on the 31st of October, and that after making the examinations required of the Columbia, in the vicinity of the 49th parallel, he should decide to go to Wallah-Wallah by land; and I am assured by that chivalric and American-hearted man, A. McDonald, Esq., the factor in charge of the Colville post, that he would render him every assistance in his power, With it and the examination already made, we shall have an excellent general knowledge of the country from Colville to Wallah-Wallah, and the several crossings of the Columbia, Spo- kane, and Snake rivers, and be able to connect the best pass of the Cascades with that of the Coeur d’ Alene range. It was in moving from Colville and the Clark river crossing, on the morning of the 26th of October, that the only snow on the entire route fell. It was to the depth of some three to six inches, and disappeared in a few days. Camp Washington was putes up on the 29th, 30th, and 31st of October, and Wallah- Wallah was reached by myself on the 2d of November, by Lieutenant Donelson on the 6th, and Captain McClellan on the 7th of that month. Here I learned that the emigrant wagons had succeeded in crossing to the sound by the Nah- chess Pass, and learning from Pu-pu-mux-mux, the Wallah-Wallah chief, that his people were now going through it on horseback, and being satisfied, from the known height of the pass, the general character of the season as shown in the quantity of snow on the Blue mountains, and the inferences to be drawn from the extraordinary mildness of the Puget sound climate, that it would be practicable for some twenty days, I assigned Mr. Lander to the duty of carrying over it the odometer survey, of observing the general character of that range as regards railroad constructions, and of adding to our knowledge of the meteorology of that region. I have not a copy of that order with me, but will send it in a future communication. To fit out Mr. Lander for that duty, I got horses and grain; but the day after my departure Indians came in with information that snow had fallen in the pass, that the last emigrants had lost their animals in it, and that even Indians had been compelled to turn back. Mr. Lander then determined to follow in the trail of the other parties to the Dalles: Although I regret Mr. Lander did not persevere, I do not censure him for his course. Ina new country it is very difficult to get the truth from the information given, and it has been found to be our most vexatious experience on the whole march. But it would have proved, in my judgment, an entirely practicable undertaking, and would have made our information LETTER FROM LIEUTENANT MULLAN, 59 more complete. I have reason to believe that, even at this time, there is but little snow in that pass. At Wallah-Wallah I learned definitely of the arrival of Lieutenant Macfeely, in charge of Lieutenant Saxton’s return party from Fort Owen, and of Dr. Evans, the geologist of the expe- dition. Lieutenant Macfeely had much difficulty in finding suitable camps, they being in some cases off the route; and he, having no guide with him, and for want of grass, lost many of his animals. Dr. Evans came through rapidly, and brought in all his animals in excellent condi- tion. These gentlemen are now preparing their reports—Lieutenant Macfeely at Columbia bar- racks, and Dr. Evans at Oregon City. I reached the Dalles on the 12th of November, Columbia barracks on the 16th, and this place on the 26th; and have made the following arrangements for continuing the survey to this point, for office-work, and for the wintering of animals and the discharge of men : 1. Forty-five feeble animals placed in good grazing in the Wallah-Wallah valley, under the charge of a herdsman; pay, thirty dollars per month and subsistence. 2. About one hundred and twenty-five animals in grazing at the Dalles, in charge of a master herder; pay, sixty dollars per month; and three men, each forty-five dollars per month, with their subsistence. 3. Two small parties by land to Vancouver, under, respectively, Captain McClellan and Lieutenant Donelson, and the remainder by the Columbia river. 4. Quartermaster employés, and gentlemen of the survey whose services are no longer required, discharged at Columbia barracks. 5. The office established at Olympia, and the odometer survey continued by the line of the Cowlitz to that point. 6. The railroad line to be run from the Snoqualme Pass to the sound by Captain McClel- lan, and a winter post to be established near the pass. The parties of Captain McClellan and Lieutenant Donelson have reached Columbia barracks ; the men not needed have been discharged, and the remainder are on their way to this place. The parties of Lieutenant Arnold, Dr. Suckley, and Mr. Tinkham, are expected to reach this point in all this month. Lieutenant Grover is not expected till late in February or early in March, at which time I hope to receive from Lieutenant Mullan a report of his route to Fort Hall. I propose, in February, to send Lieutenant Arnold through the Nez Perces country to the Coeur d’Alene mission, and from that point make arrangements to ascertain the snows in the Ceeur d’ Alene mountains. Apologising for this hastily written and desultory report, I remain, very respectfully, your most obedient servant, SAAC I. STEVENS I ‘ ) Governor of Washington Territory, in Charge of Exploration. Hon. Jurrerson Davis, Secretary of War. IW@, 1 Sr. Mary’s Vitiace, Wasnineron Trerrirory, October 2, 1853. Str: I have the honor to report my arrival at this place at noon of the 30th of September. In conformity to your letter of instructions to me, dated at Fort Benton, September 8, 1853, I left Fort Benton on the morning of the 9th, and struck the Muscle Shell river on the 13th, passing between the Highwood and Girdle mountains, near the base of the western slope of the Highwood mountains. Here I found a most excellent prairie road from the Missouri to the point where I struck the Muscle Shell river, with the exception of about three miles of ‘ ‘bad 60 LETTER FROM LIEUTENANT MULLAN. land’’ crossing. On my route from the Missouri I crossed the headwaters of the Shonkee creek, or Shonkee river, Arrow river, Judith river, and Hammell Island creek, before striking the Muscle Shell river. All of these ieee referred to are tributaries of the Missouri from the south, but lose their importance when compared with the Muscle Shell river. This last men- tioned stream I found to be one of the most important tributaries of the Missouri. It takes its rise in the main chain of the Belt or Girdle mountains, a chain of the Rocky mountains east of the Missouri. This river winds through a very beautiful, level valley, well wooded along the borders of the stream from its headwaters to the point where I struck it, a distance of sixty miles, and I have every reason to believe that it is well wooded thence to its mouth. The valley through which it flows is about one mile wide, bounded on the east side by low prairie bluffs. There are two trails across the mountains by this river—one by the northern, and the other by the southern fork of the river. In coursing the southern fork of the Muscle Shell river you cross the headwaters of the Missouri; in crossing along the northern fork you pass though the Girdle mountains, by a very excellent pass, to the Missouri. I did not fall upon the Flathead trail when I first struck the river, but found it four miles above, which I saw tended towards the east. This trail I followed for a distance of twenty miles toa ford. I thence followed it southeast to the Muscle Shell, for a distance of twenty miles farther, over a very rough, rugged, and difficult road. There I found that the Flatheads were five days ahead of me, and that it would be perfectly impossible for me to overtake them with my pack animals. Therefore I deemed it advisable to go into camp—which I left in charge of Mr. Burr—to go in search of the Flatheads, with my Indian guide. To this effect the Indian guide and myself, mounted on two of my best horses, followed on their trail for a distance of sixty or seventy miles, and found them encamped in a very beautiful valley. Here I was received by them with the greatest hospitality and kindness. I explained to the principal men of the camp, in detail, the object of my visit. I told them that I came among them to secure a delegation of their most intelligent and reliable men to accompany me across the Rocky mount- ains, to meet you at the St. Mary’s village. I told them that you had visited the camp of the Blackfeet Indians, and that your intention and determination was to bring all the tribes, both east and west of the mountains, into one general peace; that your determination was to protect them from the incursions of the Blackfeet Indians, who for years have been their enemies to the knife; that your determination was to build anew the village of St. Mary’s, and cause the valley, where had been their homes for years, again to teem with beauty; that, in the beautiful valley of St. Mary’s, a foundation had been laid, and that upon it you intended to build, if possible, a superstructure that all the Indian tribes of North America could look upon and imitate, and that would be a monument which our government could view with feelings of pride and credit. After much persuasion, the chief of the tribe delegated five of his principal men to accompany me, to be their representatives to you. Four of them accompanied me to this village, and I am compelled to bear witness, on an occasion, to their noble and Christian character. Did what Father De Smet has told of the Flathead Indians need confirmation, I am ready and willing to add my evidence in the behalf of these interesting children of the mountains. From the Flathead camp I followed up the Muscle Shell river to. its headwaters, by its north- ern fork, I there fell upon the headwaters of Smith river, flowing into the Missouri from the south, and running in a northwester ly course by a very excellent prairie road across the dividing ridge. This river takes its rise in the same range of mountains as the Muscle Shell, and flows in the opposite direction. This river winds through a very beautiful prairie allen well wooded. The current of the stream is rapid, bed rocky, and water about eighteen inches deep. This valley I followed down for many miles, and, finding it to take a course too far to the north, I left it and crossed to the Missouri by a very excellent road. Here I found the Mis- souri to be five feet deep and about thirty yards wide, and flowing with a very rapid current towards the north, The water here is perfectly clear and limpid. From the point where I LETTER TO LIEUTENANT MULLAN, 61 struck the Missouri there is a very excellent prairie road leading westward; but being unable to ford the stream where I struck it, | was compelled to follow down the course of it for eight miles to find a ford, and then crossed a high ridge of mountains west of the Missouri, in order to cut off the distance to my left. This prairie extends about twenty miles to the west, to the dividing ridge, where rises the main fork of the Bitter Root river. This dividing ridge, from which flow the waters of the Missouri and the Columbia, I crossed on the second day from the Missouri, and it proved the only difficult point of passage in my route from Fort Benton. This divide is about four hundred feet high, and about three miles across. I here fell upon the headwaters of the main fork of the Bitter Root river, the valley of which I followed down till it unites with the Blackfeet fork of the Bitter Root river at Hell Gate. This valley is about a mile wide, and well wooded with the pine and cotton-wood tree, and affords a most excellent road for the passage of wagons. There is a well-beaten trail along this valley, made by the Flat- heads in their course to their hunting-grounds east of the Missouri. I would here mention that this same trail leads along the north fork of the Muscle Shell river; thence down the river to its mouth. The grade of this valley is scarcely perceptible, and along it you pass along the slope of but one mountain, which, with but little trouble, would allow wagons to pass over it. After leaving the main fork, I crossed the Blackfeet fork of the Bitter Root, and followed along it for six or eight miles, and thence crossed to the St. Mary’s by a most excellent prairie road. I found good grass and water for my animals on nearly the whole route, and slept but one night without wood, which was between the Missouri and Muscle Shell. I would mention particularly the valleys of the Muscle Shell and the main fork of the Bitter Root rivers, as being well grassed. I found, in both valleys, the grass green, rich, and luxuriant, and water and wood in abundance. This wood I found to be principally the pine, cotton-wood, spruce, cedar, and hemlock. I would also mention that game in the greatest abundance is to be found along the whole route—buffalo, elk, antelope, and bear. I would also mention that I found the weather much more mild west of the Missouri than east of it. For full details as to the char- acter of the country, for each day’s march, and the streams and rivers passed, I would refer you to my journal. I have the honor to be, sir, your obedient servant, J. MULLAN, Lieutenant United States Army. Hon. Isaac I. Stevens, Governor of Washington Territory. No. 2. Nortuern Pactric Rat~RoAD EXPLORATION AND SURVEY, Fort Owen, St. Mary’s Valley, October 3, 1853. Dear Sir: You are placed in charge of the meteorological and supply post established in this valley, with Mr. Adams and Mr. Burr, assistants; Sergeant Simpson, in charge of the an- imals; Corporal Rose, Privates Wolfe Williams and Toohill Isham, of the 7th infantry; and Simpson, Farnham, Osborne, Osborne, jr., Mechelbach, and Bell, quartermaster employés, and Gates, to be chargeable to the survey. The object in establishing this post is twofold: first, to ascertain the character of the seasons in this valley, and the adjacent ranges of mountains, by numerous and carefully-made meteoro- logical observations; and, second, to continue the exploration and survey of the country between the Rocky and Bitter Root ranges of mountains, extending it to Fort Hall, to connect with the survey of Fremont, and northward to the Flathead lake, and even to the upper waters of Clark’s fork. As much time as practicable should be given to the examination of entrances to passes. It is believed you will be able to work late, and to resume operations at an early period in the spring. 62 LETTER TO LIEUTENANT DONELSON. It is important that attention should be given to collections, and particularly to the mineral wealth of the region. Gold is said to be found in the neighborhood of the Hell Gate fork. I desire you to pay especial attention to the Indian duties connected with your position. You are authorized to pay an interpreter at the rate of $500 per year. He should, as you have suggested, be a guide; and the Flathead, Gahiel, is recommended as competent and reliable: endeavor to secure his services. Your attention is called to the several particulars in relation to which I am directed to make reports in the instructions of the Commissioner of Indian Affairs, and any information you can afford will be of service. Make an estimate of the probable cost of estab- lishing a sub-agency, and the general cost of keeping it up. I shall, however, endeavor to communicate with you again this fall, and may be able to send you additional Indian goods. To Lieutenant Grover, who has volunteered to conduct the dog train over these mountains in the winter, and to Mr. Tinkham, who has volunteered to cross the mountains twice by the Marias Pass to Fort Benton, and thence by some soutbern pass to this point, and thence by the southern Nez Perces to Wallah-Wallah, you will, of course, render all the assistance in your power. Ample supplies have been provided for them, and I do not think any contingency will arise making it necessary that they should encroach upon your stores. By Lieutenant Grover and Mr. Tinkham, I hope you will be able to send reports of your operations, or detached reports, with a statement of your route from Fort Benton to this point, and of your survey to Fort Hall, should it be accomplished before the arrival of Lieutenant Grover. You may rely upon my establishing at least a bi-monthly express there this winter, if practi- cable, and by which I shall be able to hear from you twice, and perhaps three times, before I see you in the spring. I shall endeavor to visit this place previous to the 15th of June. Of the animals (horses and mules) left in your charge, I am confident that as many of them will be serviceable, in a few days, as your duties will require. Should the winter prove mild, all the animals will probably be serviceable in the spring. For the meat rations you will rely mainly upon beef, which is in abundance in this valley. Lieutenant Saxton established the tariff at $60 per head, which meets my approval. Yours, truly, ISAAC I. STEVENS. Lieutenant Muuuan. No. 3. Fuarseap Vriiace or St. Mary’s, Territory of Washington, October 2, 1853. Str: According to the verbal instructions you have already received, you are placed in com- mand of the principal party to continue the work westward from this point, to connect with Captain McClellan’s work eastward, through the Cascade range. The party will be composed as follows: Lieutenant Arnold, U. 8. Army, assisted by Mr. Lyman Arnold, and Mr. G. W. Stevens, assisted by Sapper Roach, associated in the charge of the astronomical observations. — Mr. Lambert, the topographer of the expedition, in charge of the odometer survey, assisted by Mr. Bixly. Mr. Lander, civil engineer; Mr. Moffett, in charge of meteorological observations, assisted by Sapper Davis; Messrs. Kendall, Evans, Evelyn, and West, as general assistants; Sergeant Higgins, pack-master, assisted by Mr. Henderson and Sergeant Martin; Sergeant Lindez, quartermaster, commissary, and ordnance sergeant; Private Horner, assistant in making col- lections; Private Goercky, of the dragoons, hospital steward; Corporal Cunningham, Privates Brandnell and Smith, of the sappers and miners; Privates Mathers and Bowers, of the fourth infantry; Gear, Hudson, and Williams, chargeable, to the survey, and twenty-seven employés LETTER TO LIEUTENANT DONELSON. 63 of the quartermaster and commissary department. Camille is assigned as an interpreter, with an Indian guide of the Flathead tribe. Your general course will be by the Jocko river to the Clark’s fork of the Columbia, thence to where the fork was crossed by Lieutenant Saxton, westward of the Pend d’Oreille lake, taking either the route passed over by Lieutenant Saxton, or some practicable route between Clark’s fork and the Kootenaies river, and thence to near the Spokane house, at the crossing of the Spokane river. Assign to Mr. Lander such duties in connexion with the railroad estimate and side reconnaissance as will give the best result. The Bitter Root river should be examined, and the route by Clark’s fork reviewed, even should the general route be more to the north, At the Pend d’Oreille lake, a detached party, sent to Colville by the northern trail, might intercept Captain McClellan; and at Colville, would be in a position to move westward to open a connexion with his work. The Spokane crossing, near the Spokane house, is a central position, trains leading therefrom both to Colville and Wallah-Wallah. At the crossing you may expect intelligence of Captain McClellan’s movements, and additional instructions either from Captain McClellan or myself. Failing to receive intelligence or instructions, your general course will be Olympia, by Wallah-Wallah, and the military road to Nisqually, and thence to Olympia. But you have full discretion to reach Olympia, from the Spokane house, by any other practicable route which may be detected in your progress through the country, taking the precaution, however, to communicate with Wallah-Wallah, where instructions may await you to the end, and by express purpose generally. At least six good horses should be reserved by you. The party to Colville by the northern trail, from the crossing west of the Pend d’ Oreille lake, place under the charge of Lieutenant Arnold, and instruct him, if he fail to hear from Captain McClellan at Colville, to push beyond Colville to the base of the Cascade range; and thence move to the south, along the eastern base of that range. Recollect the great object to be accomplished, in the direction given by your operations, including those to Lieutenant Arnold, is to connect your work with that of Captain McClellan, through the most practicable pass found in the Cascade range by him; and to this every movement should tend. To this end you will instruct Lieutenant Arnold, as he moves south, either to reach Olympia by Wallah-Wallah and the military road, or by some other practicable route, as you may judge most judicious. In reference to Lieutenant Arnold’s party, I will suggest that it be immediately organized, to be prepared for any duties of reconnaissance, on which it may be desirable to detach him, previously to arriving at the Clark’s fork crossing. It should be a most efficiently organized party. Besides his brother’s assistance in astronomical observations, it is desirable he should have an assistant for the compass line and topography, and an assistant for barometrical observ- ations. Endeavor so to organize his party, unless the deficiency of instruments renders it impossible. I am of opinion that Mr. Lander’s party should consist of not more than three men besides himself. As you approach the country of the Kootenaies Indians, every exertion should be made to secure their services as guides, as they are said to be well acquainted with the routes you will take. You are requested to obtain every information possible in reference to the Indian tribes you may meet, and I can recommend Mr, Kendall as one who would render much assistance in this important branch of the work. You are also requested to learn what you can in. reference to the missions situated in the vicinity of your route, and also of the Hudson’s Bay settlements; of both, whether their influence is beneficial or prejudicial to Ameri- can interests in their neighborhood. Enclosed you will find letters of introduction to officers in charge of Hudson’s Bay posts at Colville and Wallah-Wallah. Truly yours, &c., ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory, in Charge of Expedition. Lieut, A. J. Donerson, United States Corps of Engineers. 64 LETTERS TO DR. SUCKLEY AND MR. TINKHAM. No. 4. Norruern Pacrric Ramroap ExpiLoratron AND SvRVEY, Flathead Village, St. Mary’s Valley, October 2, 1853. Sm: You will remain at this point until the 25th instant or thereabouts, when you will pro- ceed in a canoe down the Bitter Root and St. Mary’s rivers, through by Lake Pend d’ Oreille, and down Clark’s fork of the Columbia river to the main river, following the latter to the mouth of the Cowlitz; and from that point make your way by the most practicable route to Olympia. During your stay at this place you will employ your time to the best advantage, collecting such specimens in zoology, botany, ichthyology, &c., as may be rare and interesting; and in your intercourse with the natives, making yourself familiar with their past and present history, language, traditions, &c., as fully as possible. Henry Berry and George Smith, two expe- rienced boatmen, will be placed at your disposal, and, where necessary, you are empowered to hire an Indian guide. During your trip, in addition to collections in natural history, you will note carefully the general direction of these rivers, and of their main tributaries, the various falls and rapids, and their approximate distances; note also the width and depth of the stream, the character of its banks at various points, and any other interesting and valuable facts. You will also make a set of meteorological observations at regular intervals, for which purpose the proper instruments will be furnished you. You will collect all the information you can concerning the various missions on your route, noting carefully their influence, both in connexion with the settlement of the country and as tending to promote the civilization of the native tribes. I will place at your disposal letters of credit and introduction to the agents of the Hudson’s Bay Company at the posts of Fort Colville, Wallah-Wallah, and Vancouver, with discretionary powers as to their use. Very truly yours, &., - ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory, in Charge of Expedition. Dr. George SucKLEY. ; No. 5. Nortuern Pactric RAILROAD EXPLORATION AND SURVEY, St. Mary’s Valley, Washington Territory, October 3, 1853. Dear Str: With your party you are assigned to the duty of examining the Marias Pass, and returning either by Cadotte’s Pass or by the pass pursued by Mr. Mullan, or by that entering the valley above this point, from the Jefferson fork of the Missouri, and known as the main Flathead trail, and thence by the southern Nez Perces trail to Wallah-Wallah, and the mili- tary road to Olympia. Fort Benton will be visited by you to confer with Mr. Doty, and make known to him the several routes examined, and to advise in relation to points requiring exami- nation; should it be practicable, it would be desirable that Mr. Doty should accompany you to St. Mary’s, and thence return by Cadotte’s Pass to Fort Benton. It is desirable that you should return by the broad Flathead trail; but the season is late, and it may be found necessary to come here by the shortest route, that of Cadotte’s Pass. It is prob- able that with good pack animals, the route by Cadotte’s Pass will occupy ten days; that by Mr. Mullan’s, twelve; and by the broad Flathead trail, fifteen days. In addition to the railroad reconnaissance and estimate, estimate as to the cost, and report as to the best practicable method of establishing a wagon route from Fort Benton to this point. Your guide will be a Flathead Indian, who will accompany you to the entrance of the Marias LETTER TO MR. DOTY. 65 Pass, and the voyageurs Monroe and Dauphin are assigned to your party. Mr. Doty and Lieu- ? d to} oD ry J a tenant Mullan will be directed to afford you every assistance in their power, particularly in giving you good animals. Lieutenant Mullan will furnish a Nez Perces guide, and additional instructions will await you at Wallah-Wallah. Your labors will be arduous, and will contribute greatly to the value and interests of the a 5 d expedition, and you enter upon them with my entire confidence as to their successful accom- plishment. Yours, &., ISAAC I. STEVENS. Mr. Tinxuam. No. 6. Nortuern Pactric RAmRoAD EXPLORATION AND SuRVEY, St. Mary's Valley, October 3, 1853. My Dear Srr: I send you by Mr. Monroe a sketch of the several routes already examined from Fort Benton to this point, to which Mr. 'Tinkham will add, on his arrival at Fort Benton, the routes examined by him. Ist. A route from the Blackfeet fork to the Jocko river; and, 2d, a route by the Marias Pass, from this point to Fort Benton. I have requested Mr. Tinkham to make known to you the character of these several examinations, and to confer with you in relation to the best direction to be given to your work from Fort Benton. Should it be deemed by you practicable, or compatible with your other duties, you will accompany Mr. Tinkham to this point to confer with Mr. Mullan, and then return to Fort Benton. My object is to bring the operations, by way of con- ference between the two parties, and the communicability of information, into connexion, so that the best results may be accomplished. I earnestly desire this to be done, and I am satisfied it is entirely practicable. The Flatheads pass the mountains all through the fall, and till after new year’s. All this is, however, left to your own judgment and discretion, in which I place entire confidence. It will be necessary that the animals be kept in the best possible condition—oxen, horses, and mules. The operations of the winter will be more extensive than was anticipated, and it is of the greatest consequence that every animal be in condition for service. You may expect Mr. Tinkham by the 20th instant, and itis important that he should have an effective train to return. The two ponies which I left with you must not be put to the hard work of crossing the mountains, but the remaining animals may be brought into requisition. At this point we leave nearly eighty animals, sixty of which will be effective in the course of this month, and will be sufficient for Mr. Tinkham’s route to the Pacific from this point, to provide for your return to Fort Benton, and for the operations of Mr. Mullan, who has with him fifteen men. Our operations to this point have been very successful. The principal party under Lieuten- ant Donelson moved yesterday. I move to-day to visit Colville, and thence make the best of my way to the sound. Yours truly, Mr. Dory. ISAAC I. STEVENS. Camp on St. Mary’s River, Thirty-three Miles below St. Mary’s Village, October 7, 1853. Mr. Tinkham got in last evening, and starts on his examination this morning. Since writing the above I have met Victor, the chief of the Flatheads, and nine lodges of Flathead Indians. He starts in two days across the mountains on a buffalo hunt, and will return in November. His people will remain till after Christmas: so much for these horrible mountains, of . 66 LETTER TO LIEUTENANT GROVER.—ORDERS. Monroe, Baptiste, and the two Piegans go by Cadotte’s Pass. One of the Piegans has agreed to accompany you to St. Mary’s, and to return with you to Fort Benton. He is the more deli- cate Indian of the two, and the better Indian. He guided me to St. Mary’s and is very trust- worthy. In reference to the service of Monroe, Baptiste, and the two Indians, I shall write a special letter. Yours, &c., ISAAC I. STEVENS. Mr. Dory. : No. 7. Norruern Pactric RattroaAD EXpLoRATION AND SURVEY, St. Mary's Valley, October 3, 1853. My Dear Grover: We have had good success in coming through the mountains: fine weather and no snow. All the parties were here on the 30th September, except that of Mr. Tinkham, who is out examining a route from the valley of the Blackfeet river to the Jocko river to see if the defile ending in Hell Gate cannot be avoided. Donelson left yesterday in charge of the principal party, and I shall move off in the morning, and hope to reach Fort Col- ville in ten to twelve days. In your examination of the Dalles, I will thank you to examine as to the site of a suitable depot for emigrant purposes, and for the continuation of the survey. Itshould be in the neigh- borhood of grass and wood, and as near as practicable to the head of steamboat navigation, I have left a good store of provisions for you at this point, and shall make every exertion to send here an express in November from the sound. Iam decidedly of the opinion that you will accomplish the undertaking of the dog train. Lieutenant Mullan is left in charge here, with Messrs. Adams and Burr as assistants, Sergeant Simpson in charge of animals, and twelve men. He will assist you in every way in his power. The doctors will also remain here some twenty days, with two men, and then go down the St. Mary’s river and the Columbia in a boat. I shall expect to see you in Olympia some time in February, and to congratulate you on the success of your enterprise. Yours, &c., ISAAC I. STEVENS. Camp St. Mary’s Vattey, Thirty-three Miles below St. Mary's Village, October 7, 1853. Mr. Tinkham got in last evening, and starts on his examination to-morrow. He will reach Fort Benton by the 20th instant, and is accompanied by a good Flathead guide. No. 9. [Orpers. ] Nortuern Pacrric RamRoap Exproration AND SuRvVEY, Camp Washington, October 29, 1853. The chief of the exploration congratulates his associates upon the junction of the eastern and western divisions on the banks of the Spokane river, and for the successful accomplishment of the great object of their joint labors. To Captain McClellan, his officers and men, too much credit cannot be ascribed for their indefatigable exertions, and the great ability of all kinds brought to their division of the work, They can point with just pride to the determination of two practicable passes in that most formidable barrier from the Mississippi to the Pacific, of the LETTER TO LIEUTENANT ARNOLD. 67 Cascade range, and to a most admirable development of the unknown geography of the region eastward to the Columbia, as showing the unsurpassed skill and devotion which has character- ized the chief of the division and all of his associates. To Lieutenant Donelson and his command thanks have already been tendered for their pre- vious services. But special commendation is now due for the constancy and success which have crowned their labors on their difficult line of Clark’s fork, from the St. Mary’s village to this point. The detached party under Lieutenant Grover, engaged in the survey of the upper Mis- souri, and about to cross the mountains with a dog train; the parties under Lieutenant Arnold, now at Fort Colville; under Lieutenant Mullan, now exploring the route from the St. Mary’s valley to Fort Hall; under Dr. Suckley, on his way in a boat, with two men, from the St. Mary’s valley by that river, Clark’s fork, and the Columbia, to Fort Colville; Mr. Tinkham, engaged in the exploration of the Marias Pass and the broad Flathead trail; and Mr. Doty, in charge of a meteorological party at Fort Benton, must not be forgotten. They have all developed ability of a high order in the progress of the exploration. No one doubts that success will crown their labors. The chief of the exploration would do injustice to his own feelings if he omitted to express his admiration for the various labors of Mr. Stanley, the artist of the exploration. Besides occupying his professional field with an ability above any commendation which we can bestow, Mr. Stanley has surveyed two routes—from Fort Benton to the Cypress mountain, and from the St. Mary’s valley to Fort Colville over the Bitter Root range of mountains—to the furtherance of our geographical information, and the ascertaining of important points in the question of a railroad; and he has also rendered effectual services in both cases, and throughout his services with the exploration, in intercourse with the Indians. Our labors are near their conclusion for the present season, and it only remains to go into quarters. The two divisions, under the respective commands of Captain McClellan and Lieu- tenant Donelson, will proceed to the Columbia barracks by way of Wallah-Wallah and the Dalles, and then await instructions as to the discharge of their men and the arrangements for the office-work. The animals will be left at Wallah-Wallah and the Dalles, in the charge of trustworthy men, to be cared for during the winter, in readiness for operations in the spring. ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory, in Charge of Exploring Expedition, dc. INO, UO, Came WASHINGTON, Twelve Miles South of Spokane House, October 29, 1853. Sir: We met the party of Lieutenant Donelson at this place yesterday, and from him I learned that you probably reached Colville yesterday. Besides the instructions which I left there for you with Mr. McDonald, I have only to suggest that in your route to Wallah-Wallah it will be well to examine the Grande Coulée. It is left free with you, however, to decide, should the lateness of the season or the condition of your animals make it advisable, whether you will take this route or pursue the best known trail to Wallah-Wallah, concerning which you can receive full information from Mr. McDonald. You are authorized, should your judgment dictate it, to leave your animals at Colville, making arrangements with McDonald for their safe- keeping; and, in connexion with Dr. Suckley, to descend the Columbia river in a boat, making the best survey youcan. I send you a memorandum of points, in the line of the Columbia, particularly requiring attention, which has been proposed by Captain McClellan. Although it is desirable to meet Dr. Suckley, and with him confer upon your own and his future operations, it must not be done at the expense of too much time; and you are authorized, should you not meet him at Colville on your return from the upper Columbia, to move at once to Wallah- 68 LETTERS TO DR, SUCKLEY AND LIEUTENANT MULLAN. Wallah. At Wallah-Wallah you will receive additional instructions. We have met Garry, the chief of the Spokanes, and I am highly pleased with him. He is a man of entire honesty and great energy, and well calculated to be chief of his tribe. Under his auspices I think his people will improve rapidly. You are aware of my wish to establish a meteorological post between the Cascade and Bitter Root mountains. I wish you would consider this matter and endeavor to advise me in regard to its location and the manner in which it should be conducted. Three places come into competition, Wallah- Wallah, Fort Colville, and the Spokane river ; and I am at present inclined to the opinion that Wallah-Wallah is the most suitable. Give all the attention you possibly can to the Indians, particularly to the Spokane and Nez Perces. Yours, &c., ISAAC I. STEVENS. Lieut. R. Arnon, 4th Artillery. Nor fl Camp WAsHINGTON, Twelve Miles South of Spokane House, October 29, 1853. Dear Sm: I have learned from Mr. McDonald, at Colville, that the Hudson’s Bay people never attempt the passage of the Columbia in boats from the Pend d’Oreille mission; and I have therefore requested Lieutenant Arnold, now at Colville, to send to the mission a guide, and with the suggestion that you come from that point by land. My object in this is to inform you, so far as I learn, of the dangers ahead, that you may not be exposed to unnecessary risk. I have also suggested to Lieutenant Arnold, that, on your meeting him at Colville, you should mutually confer in reference to your future operations. You may deem it advisable to accompany him by land, and I have given to him authority, should the lateness of the season or the condition of his animals forbid his journey by land, to descend the river in a boat; in which case I shall wish to have you go together. My object in making these suggestions is to guard yourself and your men from unnecessary risk, and not to interfere in the slightest degree with the field you wish to occupy. I wish that field should be occupied as fully as the lateness of the season and the means in your power will permit, that the best results may be gained. Yours, truly, ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory, &e. Dr. Guorcr Suckiey. No. 13. Camp WAsHINGTON, Twelve Miles South of Spokane House, October 29, 1853. Dear Str: Our eastern and western divisions have met at this point, and the train has now been carried entirely across. Captain McClellan has discovered two passes in the Cascade range, north of Mount Rainier, and has explored the whole range from the Columbia to the 49th par- allel. He and the officers with him are in excellent health, and have done an immense amount of work. Last evening we had a little supper or meeting of the gentlemen of the two divisions, — at which your name, and those of other gentlemen on detached service, were not forgotten. I have borne constantly in mind whatI told you in regard to supplying provisions and Indian goods, and I will avail myself of the very first opportunity to do so, LETTERS TO MR. TINKHAM AND TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR. 69 I hope to meet Mr. Owen, by whom I will send some powder; and I think you will be able to get from him some sugar, coffee, and other indispensable articles. As regards the expresses, I shall make every endeavor to establish them, but may not succeed. It is a matter which I deem of very great importance, that you should receive intelligence from us, and that we should hear of your movements; and you may rest assured that no effort on my part will be wanting. Our parties are all now to move to Wallah-Wallah and the Dalles, where we shall leave the animals; thence to Columbia barracks, when the men will be discharged and the office force made up, which will proceed to Olympia by way of the Columbia and Cowlitz rivers. Yours, truly, : ISAAC I. STEVENS. Lieutenant Muay, St. Mary's Village. No. 14. Camp WASHINGTON, Twelve Miles South of Spokane House, October 29, 1853. Dear Str: We have met at this place the eastern and western divisions, and our success is complete. Captain McClellan has found two passes through the Cascade ridge, north of Mount Rainier. Last evening we had a supper, at which you were particularly remembered, and your services referred to. I have met Jack, the guide of Lieutenant Macfeely, who speaks of the Nez Perces trail to Wallah-Wallah as quite severe. They were twenty-two days in going—stopping two days, however, for a missing man—and lost twenty animals. They did not get on the true trail, however ; in the words of the guide, they struck too high up. This letter will probably reach St. Mary’s about the time of your arrival there; and I think before deciding to go by the southern Nez Perces route, in conformity with instructions already received, you should get all possible information from the Indians. There seems to be no doubt that the route by Clark’s fork, taken by Lieutenants Saxton and Donelson, is the best in a severe season; and you have authority, should your information lead you to the belief that the Nez Perces route will expose you to too much risk, to take this route. In reference to the goods for your guide, I have them together, and will send them by Mr. Owen, if we meet him, as I trust we shall; but if not, you had better arrange with Mr. Owen, at St. Mary’s, to pay him there. All parties will move from this point to Wallah-Wallah and the Dalles, where the animals will be left over winter; thence to Columbia barracks, when the men will be discharged, and then to Olympia for office-work, Truly yours, &c., ISAAC I. STEVENS. N. B.—The goods for your guide are as follows: four blankets, four pair leggins (cloth.) A. W. TINKHAM. OtymptaA, Wasutneton Trrrrrory, December 19, 1853. Sm: During the last week the parties of Captain McClellan and Lieutenant Donelson have reached Olympia, and are now prepared to enter upon the office-work. During this week Captain McClellan will leave this place to explore the region west of the Cascade mountains, with a view of bringing the railroad line down to a good harbor on Puget sound; to deter- 70 LETTER TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR, mine the proper location of the military road, and to examine the work already executed upon it. The mild weather we are now experiencing will favor his operations greatly. I shall here establish a meteorological post, keeping up a series of complete observations during the winter. The latitude and longitude will also be determined with allpossible accuracy. I am pleased to be able to report the arrival of Dr. Suckley, with his little party. His trip by canoe from the St. Mary’s village has been entirely successful, having accomplished the entire distance to Fort Vancouver by water, with the exception of about sixty miles above Fort Colville, where the rapids are so frequent and dangerous in their nature that its passage by water is seldom attempted. I will, in the following extract from his report, give the results achieved by him: oe * * Acreeable to instructions received from you, dated October 2, I had consid- erable difficulty in making a canoe which would answer the purpose. A skin boat, made of three bullock’s hides, was at length constructed, and on the 15th of the same month I embarked with two white men and an Indian, to descend the Bitter Root river. The inhabitants of St. Mary’s were entirely unacquainted with the nature of the river, and its capabilities for canoe navigation, no boats ever having been known to ascend the river higher than the Horse Plain, just below the junction of the St. Mary’s and Pend d’Oreille rivers. My trip being con- sidered so hazardous, I was obliged to proceed with great caution, and it was not until the eleventh day that I reached the latter river. On the twenty-fifth day after my departure from St. Mary’s, I reached the Pend d’Oreille mission. My provision had entirely given out, but, thanks to the kindness and hospitality of the good missionaries at that point, my stock was replenished. Here I found that the skin canoe had become so rotten that it became necessary, in case I proceeded farther by water, to obtain a new boat. Owing to the miscarriage of some letters of instruction which had been sent to me from you, and from a wrong impression on the minds of the priests, to the effect that they had heard of your having sent positive orders to me to relinquish the trip, I was reluctantly compelled to take horses and proceed to Fort Colville, on the Columbia river, distant sixty miles by land. The distance by the river may be a little more. It is my opinion, from what I could learn from observation and report, that I could have descended the Clark river to that point, although, of course, I should have been obliged to use great caution, as nothing definite is known by the Indians or others concerning this part of the river. I suppose that the river would be navigated by the Indians, in their canoes, if there was any inducement. Their hunting grounds lie in an opposite direction, and they are too indolent to travel for the sake of exploring or for pastime. On the 13th of November I arrived at Fort Colville, where I obtained further supplies, two canoes, and three Indians. On the 17th I again embarked, reaching Fort Vancouver on the 6th of December. On the route I stopped at Fort Okinakane, Fort Wallah-Wallah, the Dalles, and Cascades, and obtained such supplies as I needed. 'The time occupied in making the whole distance was fifty-three days, or two days less than were occupied by the main train, under Lieutenant Donelson, between the same points. The running time, exclusive of stops, was 2853 hours, and the distance, (approx- imative,) as measured by the course of the rivers, including the greater and lesser bends, one thousand and forty-nine miles. This will give the average speed of 3.774 miles per hour, There were but three portages on the whole route of any magnitude; one of thirteen hundred paces on the Clark river, above Lake Pend d’Oreille; one on the Columbia, at the Dalles, of eight hundred paces; and lastly, one on the Cascades, one and a half mile in length. On the latter, I made use of the wooden railway to convey the canoes and their loads. It should be borne in mind that this passage was made at the lowest stage of water, when the current was proportionately feeble. “‘The Bitter Root river was quite shallow in many places, and my canoe, which, when loaded, drew about ten inches of water, had frequently to be lightened. After reaching the St. Mary’s river, formed by the junction of the last-mentioned stream and the Hell Gate river, .I always had sufficient depth of water. About sixty miles (by the river) below the mouth of the Hell Gate river, the mountains approach very closely to the bed of the stream, rendering its current LETTER TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR. 71 very swift and tortuous, abounding in rapids. Farther down it is straighter, with large flats on one or both sides, channel deeper, and current more sluggish. At a point about sixty miles above the Pend d’Oreille mission (of St. Ignatius) is the Pend d’Oreille or Kalispem lake, formed by a dilatation of the river. It is a beautiful sheet of water, about forty-five miles in length. Below this the river is sluggish and wide for some twenty-six miles, when rapids are again encountered during low water, Irom a point nine miles above the lake to these rapids, a distance of about eighty miles, steamboats drawing from twenty to twenty-four inches can readily ascend. In-higher water, of course, the distance will be lengthened. There would then be but one bad obstacle between the Cabinet, twenty-five miles above lake Pend d’ Oreille, and a point some ten miles below the mission, a distance of one hundred and forty miles. The obstacle alluded to is where the river is divided by a rock island, with a fall of six and a half feet on each side. At this point a lock might readily be constructed. “The Hudson’s Bay Company’s large freight boats are in the habit of ascending from the lower end of the Pend d’Oreille lake to the Horse Plain, a distance of 135 miles; this involves two portages. “On the Columbia river, between the mouths of the Spokane and De Chute’s rivers, a distance of about 350 miles, there are but three bad obstacles to navigation for steamboats drawing from twenty to thirty inches. The principal of these are the Priest and Buckland’s rapids. These might probably be locked, or so modified by art as to render them passable for steamboats or other craft. The mouth of the De Chute’s river is about eight miles above the present steam- boat landing at the Dalles. I have dwelt on these particulars, knowing how important this matter will prove, in relation to questions of railroad construction and the transportation of supphes. “From the Horse Plain, before spoken of, the river, so far as I examined it, would be excellent for rafting purposes. Timber in this manner could be transported a great distance. Above this to the St. Mary’s village, I cannot give a decided opinion in its favor, but am inclined to the opinion that rafts might run. At any rate, logs could be readily driven down by the cur- rent from an immense distance. While on the subject of timber, I will briefly allude to its quantity and quality. Along the Bitter Root and Hell Gate rivers, and the mountains in their vicinity, the red pine and larch, favorite trees in ship-building, are found in great quantity. The white pine, cotton-wood, and wild cherry are also found, although not in such quantity. Farther down these streams we find, in addition, cypress or cedar, hemlock, spruce and fir, be- sides several hard-wood trees. The timbered country extends from the main range of the Rocky mountains to a point about eighty miles below Fort Colville. From that to the Dalles there is no timber. At the Dalles it again appears, and trees of many descriptions, and frequently of enormous size, are found thickly covering the valleys and surrounding hills. “Excellent building stone is found along nearly the whole route. There are pieces of excel- lent land along the rivers. Their waters are clear and beautiful, and filled with thousands of the different kinds of the salmon family. The country above the Dalles is remarkably Mealthy.”’ * * * Dr. Suckley reports that Lieutenant Arnold had reached Wallah-Wallah, and would imme- diately come on. Lieutenant A. had been entirely successful—had accurately determined the latitude of the mouth of the Clark’s fork of the Columbia, and had made an examination of the Grand Coulée, which in its character is found to differ essentially from published results. Mr. Tinkham, now on his way from St. Mary’s, is probably through the mountains and within six to ten-days of Wallah-Wallah. Our examinations down the line of the Columbia prove it en- tirely practicable for a railroad, and the line along Cowlitz river and thence to Puget sound is remarkably cheap, as well as easy of construction. Puget sound can certainly be reached by two practicable routes, the line of the Snoqualme Pass with a single tunnel—say three thou- sand yards long, and with grades not exceeding forty feet-—and the line of the Columbia and 72 LETTER FROM THE SECRETARY OF WAR. Cowlitz, with somewhat easier grades, with no tunnels, but involving an increased distance of, in round numbers, one hundred and fifty miles. The office-work is commenced with great vigor, and I hope to be able to despatch my pre- liminary report in a month’s time. I am, sir, very respectfully, your most obedient, ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory. Hon. Jerrerson Davis, Secretary of War, Washington. War DEPARTMENT, Washington, December 1, 1853. Sm: I have received, with your letter of the 28th of September, a duplicate of that of Sep- tember 8th, (the original has not come to hand,) in which you state that the funds allotted for — the survey under your charge would be exhausted by the middle of October, from which time to the 30th of June next you would require $30,000, in monthly instalments ; and you add an estimate of $40,000 for the operations of your party for the next fiscal year, ending June 30, 1855. The department very much regrets that, with a full knowledge of the extent of the means at the disposal of the department for the survey intrusted to you, you have so made your arrange- ments as to absorb all your funds so long before the completion of the work. I have no means of meeting any further demands for the expenses of your party. In the instructions from this department of April 8, you were directed to bring your opera- tions to a close, and submit a general report before the first Monday in February next, when the law requires all reports to be laid before Congress. All arrangements looking to the ex- tension of your operations beyond the time indicated in those instructions are without authority ; and you are directed to close your work in the manner therein prescribed. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, JEFF’N DAVIS, Secretary of War. Governor I. I. Stevens. |e av ap REPORT. CHAPTER I. General Instructions and Arrangements. Wasuineton, D.C., June 80, 1854. Str: On the Sth of April of last year I was assigned to the charge of the Nerthern Pacific Rail- road Exploration and Survey, under the following instructions: “ War DEPARTMENT, “* Washington, April 8, 1853. “The War Department being directed by a recent act of Congress to survey the several routes of a railroad from the Mississippi river to the Pacific ocean, it has been determined to explore and survey a route from the sources of the Mississippi river to Puget sound; and the following instructions are given in relation to it, and for the information and direction of the several branches of the service: “1st. The exploration and survey is placed in charge of Isaac I. Stevens, governor of the Territory of Washington, to whom all officers detailed for the same will report for instructions. “2d. The general project of the operation, subject to such modifications as circumstances may direct, is to operate from St. Paul, or some eligible point on the upper Mississippi, towards the great bend of the Missouri river, and thence on the table-land between the tributaries of the Missouri and those of the Saskatchawan to some eligible pass in the Rocky mountains. A depot will be established at Fort Union, at the mouth of the Yellowstone, and a portion of the party will rendezvous there and await the coming up of the main body. A second party will proceed at once to Puget sound, and explore the passes of the Cascade range, meeting the eastern party between that range and the Rocky mountains, as may be arranged by Governor Stevens. “3d. As in the prosecution of this exploration and survey it will be necessary to explore the passes of the Cascade range and of the Rocky mountains from the forty-ninth parallel to the head- waters of the Missouri river, and to determine the capacity of the adjacent country to supply, and of the Columbia and Missouri rivers and their tributaries to transport, materials for the con- struction of the road, great attention will be given to the geography and meteorology generally of the whole intermediate region; to the seasons and character of its freshets; the quantities and continuance of its rains and snows, especially in the mountain ranges; to its geology, in arid regions keeping particularly in view the bringing of water to the surface by means of artesian wells; its botany, natural history, agricultural and mineral resources; the location, numbers, history, traditions and customs of its Indian tribes; and such other facts as shall tend 107 74 GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS AND ARRANGEMENTS. to develop the character of that portion of our national domain, and supply all the facts which enter into the solution of the particular problem of a railroad. ‘4th. Brevet Captain George B. McClellan, already under orders to report to Governor Stevens, is assigned to duty on this survey, according to his brevet rank. “ 5th. Captain John W. T. Gardiner, first dragoons ; Captain Joseph Roberts, fourth artillery ; Second Lieutenant Johnson K. Duncan, third artillery; Second Lieutenant Rufus Saxton, jr., fourth artillery ; Second Lieutenant Cuvier Grover, fourth artillery, and Brevet Second Lieutenant John Mullan, jr., first artillery, are assigned to duty on this survey, and will report to Governor Stevens for instructions. “6th. In addition to Lieutenant A. J. Donelson and ten non-commissioned officers, artificers and privates of the engineer company, already under orders for the expedition, one sergeant, two cor- porals, one musician, and sixteen privates of company D, first dragoons, now stationed at Fort Snelling, will be placed at the disposal of Governor Stevens; and, in view of the character of the service, the officers of the company are required to select none but tried men and animals for the duty. “7th. In the exploration of the Cascade range, the brigadier general in command of the Pacific division will assign to Captain McClellan two officers from those who may volunteer for the service, and thirty men, to be selected from the several companies stationed in the Territory of Washington, and on the Columbia river. Every facility will be given to Captain McClellan and his party in the discharge of their difficult and important duties, and much is expected from the hearty co-operation and assistance of the officers and troops stationed in the Territory. “Sth. The several administrative branches of the service will, on requisition duly approved by Governor Stevens, supply the officers, soldiers, and civil employés of the expedition, (except the scientific corps and their assistants,) with transportation, subsistence, medical stores, and arms. ‘The Quartermaster’s department will supply funds to provide means of transportation, and to pay for the hired men of the department attached to the command. The Subsistence department will supply rations, or funds for their purchase. The Ordnance department will fur- nish forty Colt’s revolvers, forty Sharp’s patent rifles, forty ordinary rifles, and a mountain piece, with the necessary ammunition, and a travelling forge. The Surgeon General’s department will assign a medical officer to the command, having skill as a naturalist, provided he can be detailed without detriment to the service. “9th. After the completion of the survey of the passes of the Rocky mountains, such portions of the officers, troops, and employés, both of the escort and of the scientific corps, as are not needed in the operation westward to the Pacific, will be despatched homeward by new routes, still further to develop the geography and resources of the country. Such of the officers and troops as are not wanted for office duty, will report to their several stations; all civil employés not necessary for a similar purpose will be discharged, and the office force will proceed to such point as may be designated by Governor Stevens, to prepare the usual reports. “10th. After the completion of the field examinations, the expedition will rendezvous at some point in the Territory of Washington, to prepare the usual reports, sending to Washington at the earliest practicable moment a summary of the principal events of the expedition, and a railroad report, to be laid before Congress, on or before the 1st of February, to be followed at a later period by an elaborate report, presenting a full account of the labors and results of the expedition. “ith. The sum of forty thousand dollars ($40,000) is set apart from the appropriation for the survey thus intrusted to Governor Stevens. é “ JEFFERSON DAVIS, “Secretary of War.” In conformity with these instructions, I proceeded to organize the parties for the work assigned to me, took the field in person at the earliest practicable period, and have now the honor to GENERAL ARRANGEMENTS, 75 submit the following preliminary report, showing the progress of the exploration at this time, and particularly developing the facts which have been established in reference to the practica- bility of the northern route for a railroad. You have already been advised, by my previous reports, of the details of the organization of the exploration, and of its narrative and history to the present time; yet, to present the whole subject in one view, I will briefly restate the plan pursued in prosecuting the survey, and refer to the several parties employed in the exploration, and the routes examined by them. This will be done with all possible brevity; and for fuller information I will refer you to my previous com- munications, and will request that they be considered as forming a portion of this report. CHAPTHLR It. Field Explored by Different Parties. As the field contemplated in my instructions extended from the great lakes to the Pacific coast, and from the 49th parallel to the emigrant route of the South Pass, and as no portion of this field had been explored since the days of Lewis and Clark, except a small portion towards the Pacific coast; as a portion of it was occupied by Indians supposed to be treacherous and hostile, and as it was in a high latitude, much abridging the season of active operations, it was determined that the exploration should be conducted in two divisions, operating respect- ively from the Mississippi river and Puget sound; and that a depot of provisions should be established by a third party at the St. Mary’s village, at the western base of the Rocky mountains, to facilitate the winter operations of the exploration, and enable the exploring parties to continue in the field the longest practicable period; and that all the parties should be organ- ized in a military manner for self-protection, and to force their way through whatever diffi- culties might be encountered. Accordingly, Captain George B. McClellan, corps of engineers, was assigned to the charge of the western division; Lieut. Rufus Saxton, jr., to the duty of establishing a depot in the St. Mary’s valley; and the eastern division was under my own personal direction. A small military force was assigned to each, and the necessary scientific corps, composed of officers of the army and civilians. The western division was charged with the duty of exploring the passes of the Cascade mountains, from the Columbia river to the northern parallel, and of pushing eastward to meet the eastern division between the Cascade and Rocky mountains. Captain McClellan was assisted in this duty by Second Lieut. Johnson K. Duncan, third artillery, astronomer, topographer, and artist; Second Lieut. 8. Mowry, third artillery, in charge of the meteorological operations; Second Lieut. H. C. Hodges, fourth infantry, quartermaster and commissary; J. F. Minter, Esq., civil engineer; George Gibbs, Esq., geologist and ethnologist; Dr. J. G. Cooper, surgeon and naturalist; A. L. Lewis, Esq., civil engineer and interpreter. Lieut. Rufus Saxton, jr., in addition to establishing the depot at the western base of the Rocky mountains, was directed to make a reconnaissance of the country passed over by him, with the view of combining the operations of the eastern and western divisions; and he was assisted in this duty by Second Lieut. Richard Arnold, third artillery, assisted by Mr. Lyman Arnold, in charge of astronomical observations; Second Lieut. R. Macfeely, fourth infantry, in command of the escort; and D. 8. Hoyt, meteorologist and topographer. The eastern division, excluding the mention of certain officers and civilians who were on duty only for a short time, and whose cases have been brought to your notice in previous reports, con- sisted of Second Lieut. A. J. Donelson, corps of engineers, in command of a detachment of ten sappers and miners; Second Lieut. Cuvier Grover, fourth artillery ; Second Lieut. John Mul- lan, fourth artillery; Doctor George Suckley, surgeon and naturalist; Isaac F. Osgood, Esq., disbursing, quartermaster’s, and commissary agent; J. M. Stanley, artist; F. W. Lander and A. W. Tinkham, Esqs., civil engineers; John Lambert, Esq., topographer; George W. Stevens, Esq., astionomer, and for a portion of the route in charge of the magnetic observations, assisted by James Doty; William M. Graham, Esq., astronomer; Joseph Moffett, meteorologist; T. S. , FIELD PARTIES AND OPERATIONS. [7 Everett, Esq., quartermaster and commissary’s clerk; Thomas Adams, assistant topographer ; William M. Bixby, in charge of compass-line, and B. F. Kendall, Elwood Evans, Charles E. Evelyn, and F. H. Burr, aids. A detachment of twenty men of the first dragoons was on duty with this division, and the necessary quartermaster and survey employés. Besides which, the services of Dr. John Evans were secured as the geologist, and those of Professor S. F. Baird as the naturalist, of the exploration. In the execution of this plan, Lieut. Donelson, with Lieut. Mullan, Mr. Graham, and six sap- pers, was directed to survey the Missouri river from St. Louis to the highest point it might be reached by the steamer of the American Fur Company, to establish at Fort Union a large depot of supplies and provisions, and to carefully examine the country in the vicinity of Fort Union, from the White Earth to the Big Muddy rivers. Mr. Lander was despatched in April to the upper Mississippi, to examine the several crossings of that river, to ascertain the point which, giving a good crossing, would furnish the best connexions east with Lake Superior and the northwestern rvads, and west with the probable general course of the railroad route, and to report as to the best point and line of departure of the main party. Mr. Tinkham, the associate civil engineer, was soon afterwards ordered to St. Paul with instructions to co-operate with Mr. Lander in the same duty. The main party was ordered to rendezvous at St. Paul, and a camp near Fort Snelling, named Camp Pierce, was there established under Capt. J. W.T. Gardiner, 1st dragoons, who was assigned to the command of the escort, and acted for a short time as commissary and quarter- master, but of whose services I was afterwards deprived in consequence of the state of his health, which compelled him to ask, by the advice of the surgeon, to be relieved from duty. Here the necessary arrangements were made to prepare for moving into the interior. Previous to leaving Washington city, I had despatched Lieut. Donelson to Montreal, to confer with Sir George Simpson, the governor of the Hudson’s Bay Company, as to the assistance that might be given to our operations, and had procured from him much reliable information in relation to the route, and circular letters to all the posts instructing the officers of the company to afford every aid in their power. Guides were also sent by him to Pembina for the exploration. It was my intention to send Lieut. Beekman Du Barry, 3d artillery, to Pembina, to get these guides, and, moving north of the Miniwakan lake, to meet me between that lake and Fort Union; but on my arrival at St. Paul I became convinced that they were not needed, and I accordingly determined to dispense with them altogether. Lieut. Du Barry was then assigned to the general charge of the observations, and was relieved from duty at his own request, on the arrival of the expedition at Lightning lake, and ordered to report to the Adjutant General. T arrived at St. Paulon the 29th May, and made the necessary arrangements for moving forward. Mr. Lander had already made his reconnaissance of the crossings of the Mississippi river, and of the adjacent country, to determine the point of departure of the main train, and Mr. Tinkham had collected much information from Capt. Simpson, of the topographical engineers, and the explorers and guides of the country. It was determined to organize two civil engineer parties, under Messrs. Lander and Tinkham respectively ; the former to mark out the general route—the latter to follow making the topographical survey and collecting the data for the detailed estimate ; both to push forward in advance of the main train. Their general route was on the east bank of the Mississippi river to Sauk rapids, and thence crossing the Mississippi by the Red river trail to the general region of the Bois des Sioux. The weather was exceedingly rainy at this time, and other difficulties occurred which delayed the movement. Adopting the plan, however, of sending forward parties and wagons in detach- ments, as fast as they were ready, everything was on the road by the Sth of June, and on the 12th the whole force was either at Camp Davis, on the west bank of the Mississippi river, or in advance on the Red river trail. The general plan of operations was to mark out a base line 78 FIELD PARTIES AND OPERATIONS. by the movement of the train, and on which were to be made the observations ; and, by detached parties, to examine important land-marks and side-routes, and cover as much of the country as practicable. Such a general knowledge was thus to be gained of the country as will give the means of giving locations of roads, with approximate estimates of cost. On reaching Pike lake, on the Red river trail, Lieutenant Grover, in command of a select party of nineteen men, was detached to examine a route to Fort Union, by Dead Colt Hillock, whilst the main party, under my own personal direction, examined a more northern route, crossing the Shayenne river twice, and passing some twenty-five miles south of the Miniwakan lake. The trails of the two commands came together in the valley of Mouse river, and they reached Fort Union without accident of any kind—Lieutenant Grover on the 25th of July, and the main party on the 1st of August. It is proper to mention that, in the progress of the main party, much was done in the way of reconnaissance by the civil engineer parties. Besides the usual examination on the line, Mr. Lander made a reconnaissance of the valley of the Shayenne river, between the two crossings; of a portion of the Coteau de Missouri, some twe .ty miles westward of the general route, and of the upper valley of Mouse river; and Mr. Tinkham, besides being in charge of the topographical survey of the route, added materially to our knowledge of the course and character of the streams by detached work. Lieutenant Donelson had already preceded the parties operating by land, had made the survey of the Missouri to near the mouth of Milk river, and a reconnaissance of the country in the vicinity of Fort Union. On the 9th of August the command moved from Fort Union in two parties, under the com- mand of Lieutenants Donelson and Grover; the former to explore a route leading from the Mouse River valley under the 49th parallel, and the latter to take the route of Milk river, travelled by the wagons of the Fur Companies, and both to rendezvous at Fort Benton. At the Big Muddy river the two commands were united under my own direction, the topo- graphical survey of the route placed permanently in charge of Mr. Lambert, and the Milk river route pursued by the whole party till it approached within 155 miles of Fort Benton; when, leaving the main train in command of Lieutenant Donelson, I went forward with two detached parties, under Lieutenant Grover and Mr. Lander, and reached Fort Benton on the 1st of Sep- tember. Lieutenant Grover was, on the 5th, sent forward to cross the Rocky mountains, and ascertain whether Lieutenant Saxton had established a depot at St. Mary’s village, and Mr. Lander was ordered to be in readiness to survey the Marias Pass. Lieutenant Donelson reached Fort Benton on the 6th of September, and Mr. Tinkham, who by my direction had been assigned to the duty of making a general exploration between the Milk and Missouri rivers, on the 9th September. Dr. Evans, the geologist of the exploration, reached Fort Benton on the 5th September, having made a large collection in the Mauvaises Terres, and reconnaissances of the country south of the Missouri and Yellowstone, and between the Milk and Missouri rivers. He left Fort Benton for Oregon, September 10. : Without noticing minor changes of programme, it will be sufficient to state that Lieutenant Grover met Lieutenant Saxton near the dividing ridge, and that both reached Fort Benton on the 13th September, with information of the establishment of a depot at the St. Mary’s village ; that Lieutenant Grover was assigned to the duty of completing the survey of the upper Missouri, and of crossing the mountain chains in winter with a dog train, to ascertain the condition of the snows ; that a meteorological post was established at Fort Benton, in charge of Mr. Doty and three men ; that the wagons were left in store there, and much other public property; that Lieu- tenant Saxton went down the Missouri with enlisted men and employés not needed to continue the survey, with orders to repair to Washington city ; that the Flatheads were visited at their FIELD PARTIES AND OPERATIONS, 79 camps, some hundred and seventy miles south of Fort Benton, by Lieutenant Mullan, and the Blackfeet, the same distance north, by Mr. Stanley; and that the exploring parties, Lieutenant Mullan, by the Hell Gate, Lieutenant Donelson, with the engineer parties, by the Blackfoot trail, all rendezvoused at the St. Mary’s village by the 30th September, except Mr. Tinkham, who reached the St. Mary’s valley on the 6th of October. Mr. Lander, who had gone sixty-five miles on his way to examine the Marias Pass, on the arrival of Lieutenant Saxton, made, under the direction of Lieutenant Donelson, a reconnaissance of the Marias, Teton, Sun and Dearborn rivers, and crossed the dividing ridge of the Rocky mountains by the pass of Lewis and Clark on their return route some eight miles northwest of Cadotte’s Pass, crossed by the main party, and came upon the common trail thirteen and a half miles lower down the pass; and Mr. Tinkham, before reaching the narrow defile ending in Hell Gate, examined a route from the pass to the Jocko river flowing into Clark’s fork, and then came into the St. Mary’s valley in Lieutenant Saxton’s trail. At St. Mary’s valley I found Lieutenant Arnold in charge of that post with six men and a considerable depot of provisions. Lieutenant Saxton’s route to that post was by the Dalles, Wallah-Wallah, Peluse, Coeur d’Alene prairie, Clark’s fork, and Jocko river. He reached the village on the 28th of August, and started for Fort Benton with a party of eigliteen men on the 2d of September. Lieutenant Macfeely, in command of twenty-six enlisted men and quartermaster employés, lefi that village on the 4th day of September, by the southern Nez Perces trail, for the Dalles. Lieutenant Mullan was placed in charge, with fifteen men, of a meteorological post at the St. Mary’s village, with orders to explore a route to Fort Hall, and to make all possible examinations of the mountain passes, especially as to the depth and continuance of snows; and Lieutenant Donelson was sent over the general route explored by Lieutenant Saxton, with directions to send Mr. Lander down the St. Mary’s river, and meet him at Horse Plain. Mr. Tinkham was sent back over the Rocky mountains by the Marias Pass, with orders to return, by some southera pass, to the St. Mary’s village, thence by the southern Nez Perces trail to Wallah-Wallah, and thence over the military road to Steilacoom and Olympia. Dr. Suckley was directed to go down the St. Mary’s river, Clark’s fork, and the Columbia, and to make the best exploration his means permitted. Leaving the St. Mary’s valley, opposite Hell Gate, on the 7th of October, I pushed with a small party over the Coeur d’Alene mountains, and resting my animals one day at the Coeur d’Alene mission, I pushed on to Colville, and reached that place on the 18th of October, the day of the crossing of the Columbia river at that point by Captain McClellan. To guard against the possibility of Captain McClellan’s passing the eastern division, on his way to the Rocky mountains, Lieutenant Donelson was directed to despatch Lieutenant Arnold on his second crossing of Clark’s fork, by the northern trail to Colville, and orders were left at Colville, directing him to go up the Columbia river, make a general reconnaissance of the river in the vicinity of the 49th parallel, and then repair to Wallah-Wallah by the route of the left bank of the Columbia, by the Grand Coulée, and by the mouth of Snake river. Word was sent to Lieutenant Donelson to meet the western division at a camp south of the Spo- kane river, and arrangements were made to complete the exploration of the Snoqualme Pass by a small party with one of the assistant engineers, Mr. Lander, and carry the line down to the harbor on the sound; to explore the route crossing the Columbia above the mouth of Snake river, and lead- ing by its north bank to Vancouver, both parties under the charge of Captain McClellan, who was also to determine, in his way, one or two doubtful points as to the geography of the country; to explore a third route, by Lieutenant Donelson, from the Coeur d’Alene mission to Wallah-Wallah, and thence down the south bank of the Columbia river to the Dalles, and to send the animals and men not needed for those duties along the usual trail to Wallah-Wallah, under Lieutenant Hodges. On a careful inspection of the animals, made by Captain McClellan and Lieutenant Donelson, 80 FIELD PARTIES AND OPERATIONS. they were found to be weary and thin, and inadequate to the duty. Accordingly, the whole force was sent down the Columbia, Captain McClellan and Lieutenant Donelson with instructions to make such examinations as their opportunities permitted. The remaining operations consisted in their continuing the survey. The animals were placed in good grazing at the first three places ; men not needed for office duty were discharged at Columbia barracks, and the office was estab- lished at Olympia. Mr. Lander made an excellent railroad reconnaissance of the route to Puget sound by the Columbia and Cowlitz rivers. Captain McClellan’s party, in addition to the scientific corps already mentioned, consisted of five assistants in observations, carrying instruments, &c.; two sergeants, two corporals, and twenty- four privates fourth infantry ; two chief packers, three hunters and herdsmen, and twenty packers— sixty-four persons in all, besides hitnself. He left Vancouver on the 24th of July, and striking the Cathlapoot’! on the 1st of August, fol- lowed up its valley four days, crossed the divide on the 5th to the south of Mount St. Helens, turned round to the south and east of Mount Adams, and reached the Wenass (a branch of the Nahchess) on the 20th August. At this point one party was sent, under Lieutenant Hodges, to Steilacoom, across by the Nahchess Pass; another, under’ Lieutenant Mowry, to the Dalles; a third, under Mr. Gibbs, to the mouth of the Yakima; a fourth, under Lieutenant Duncan, to the main Yakima; whilst Captain McClellan went in person to examine the Nahchess Pass. The camp was moved to Ketetas, on the main Yakima, September 3d. From this point the main Yakima Pass was examined, and on the 19th all the detached parties, having previously rejoined the main party, moved northward, and reached the Columbia river a little below the mouth of the Pischous on the 21st, and Fort Okinakane on the 27th of September. Subsequent to this date, the party examined the country to the Barrier river, (its several heads by small parties,) its valley to the Columbia river, that river to Fort Okinakane, and explored the whole country east of the Cascades to the Columbia river, and north to above our parallel, and crossed the river at Colville on the 18th of October. On leaving the Yakima, September 19th, Captain McClellan’s party was reduced to thirty-six men in all, including himself, by the discharge of a portion of the scientific corps and of the pack- ers, and by sending in all the troops but one sergeant and seven privates. Subsequent to reaching Olympia Captain McClellan had made an examination of the eastern shore of the sound to north of Snohomish river, and of that river and the Snoqualme, and of the adjacent country, for some miles above the Snoqualme Falls. The remaining operations may be summed up briefly as follows. Lieut. Arnold, Dr. Suckley, and Mr. Tinkham have completed the explorations intrusted to them, with the single modification that Mr. Tinkham has crossed the Cascades over the Snoqualme instead of the Nahchess Pass ; Lieutenant Mullan has explored the passes in the Rocky mountains from Hell Gate to Fort Hall; and Lieutenant Grover has crossed the several mountain ranges in winter, leaving Fort Benton on the 2d of January, and reaching Wallah-Wallah the 2d day of March. I have examined, personally, the harbors on the eastern shore of the sound to Bellingham bay, the channels thence to the Straits de Fuca, and the harbors of Penn’s cove, on Whitby’s island, and Port ‘Townsend, at the point where the straits join the waters of the sound. CLA Pel BUR, eh. General Description of Region Examined, and Results Accomplished.— General Salubrity of the Region. The country thus occupied, or to be occupied, may be described as follows: It lies between the great lakes and Puget sound, the forty-ninth parallel and the emigrant route of the South Pass. In it are four great rivers—the Mississippi and the Red river of the North, flowing into the Gulf of Mexico and Hudson’s bay; the Missouri and Columbia rivers, flowing eastward and westward from the Rocky mountains in opposite directions. There are three mountain ranges, running in a general direction north and south—the Rocky, Cceur d’Alene, and Cascade mountains. The four rivers are more than powerful auxiliaries as lines of communication in building the road and advancing settlements, affording in their course large tracts of arable and pasture land and inexhaustible supplies of lumber and stone. They have essentially modified the climate. The Mississippi and the Red river of the North, with their several tributaries interlocking each other, nearly all heavily timbered, make the eastern portion of the field one of inexhaustible fertility, and have great natural advantages for bringing supplies and productions of all kinds to market. The Missouri river has turned the furmidable chain of the Black Hills and Wind River mountains, and with its southern tributaries, especially the Yellow- stone, presents a rich and inviting country at the base and into the valleys of the mountains. The Columbia has found its way through the Coeur d’Alene and Cascade chains, affording ex- cellent passes, and the tributaries of the two rivers interlocking in the Rocky mountains have broken it into spurs and valleys, affording several practicable passes, and with a tunnel admitting the passage of a road at an elevation of about five thousand feet. In the region of the South Pass the Rocky mountain range extends from near Fort Laramie to the valley of the Salt lake, through nearly seven degrees of longitude, or a distance of about three hundred miles, at an elevation of, from 4,519 feet (Fort Laramie) to 7,400 feet (South Pass,) and from 4,222 feet (Great Salt lake) to 8,400 feet (Wahsatch mountains,) above the sea; and the whole system of ranges to the Pacific extends through seventeen degrees. Northward, none ot the subsidiary spurs that branch to the eastward cross the Missouri and Yellowstone, and the main chain deflects considerably to the westward, till, in the region extending from the sources of the Missouri to the headwaters of Sun river, the system of ranges extends only through nine de- grees of longitude, of which three to four degrees are occupied by the prairie region of the Great Plain of the Columbia, and in the several passes the greatest elevation is about 6,300 feet, and the length of the route where the elevation exceeds that of Fort Laramie and the Great Salt lake, is fifty-six miles. Crossing the Yellowstone and Missouri, the whole country eastward to the Mississippi is a prairie region. Puget sound is in the same longitude as San Francisco, and a railroad through the South Pass to San Francisco or Puget sound must, without making any allowance for the Great Plain of the Columbia, pass over a mountain region eight degrees in lon- gitude greater than by the route north of the Missouri and Yellowstone. ; Thus the distinctive character of the route is the great extension of the prairie region west- ward; the easy character and the low elevation of the passes of the Rocky mountains; the prac- ticable character of the passes in the Coeur d’Alene and Cascade mountains, and its connexion with the great natural water communication across the continent of the Missouri and Columbia rivers. lif 82 EXTENT OF EXPLORATIONS.—SALUBRITY OF THE REGION, The results thus far accomplished may be summed up as follows: The Missouri and Columbia rivers, with the exception of sixty miles of the latter, have been surveyed; three passes, including that of the Columbia river, have been explored in the Cascade and Coeur d’Alene mountains ; nine passes in the Rocky mountains ; two lines have been run from the Mississippi river to the base of the mountains; ranges of country south of Fort Union, and between the Yellowstone and Missouri rivers, at the eastern and western bases of the Rocky mountains from above our parallel to the forks of the Missouri, and in the Territory of Washington, between the Cascade and Cceur d’Alene mountains, have been explored. Not only has information been collected in reference to the routes for a railroad, but attentive consideration has been given to wagon roads, to the navigability of the rivers and the part they must play in establishing communica- tions, the adaptation of the country to settlement, the Indian tribes, and the military posts that ought to be established. Additional explorations and surveys ought, however, to be made, to determine the most practicable route for the road, and, incidentally, still further to develop the geography and resources of this region of country. Before passing, however, to the consideration of these questions, [I will advert to the remarkable salubrity of the whole region included in the exploration. The reports of medical officers, Dr. Suckley and Dr. Cooper, will show the healthiness of this route. From the Mississippi to Fort Union, in a force of eighty-six men, there were slight ailments growing out of too free use of buffalo meat, and the use of saline water, good camping grounds not having been selected; but they yielded readily to treatment, only one person having been confined to his bed, and that was in consequence of his own gross imprudence. With proper choice of camping grounds, there will be no difficulty in nearly always procuring good water, and plenty of it. This portion of the route was made from June 10th to August 1st. From Fort Union to Fort Benton, the party consisted of over one hundred persons, and the time occupied in the march was from August Sth to September 6th—distance 375 miles. Three men became sick, but in each case it was the breaking out cf chronic complaints of long standing. From Fort Benton to the Great Plains of the Columbia, the route passed through a well-wooded and bounti- fully watered country, and there were no cases of sickness in the command. There was, in the remaining portion of the journey, but one slight ailment; though on approaching the lower Columbia, and in the journey from Columbia barracks to Olympia, the command was exposed to frequent rains. I do not include the case of two persons whose indis- position was caused by gross negligence, and which is referred to in Dr, Suckley’s report. The Indians on the route were free from epidemic diseases. The health of the party engaged in the exploration of the Cascades was also exceedingly good. No epidemic diseases prevailed. Disorders of the digestive organs were common, but yielded readily to treatment. The great dryness of the climate, and the perfect drainage of the country, prevent the prevalence of malarious diseases. Whole tribes of the Indians have, however, been almost exterminated by the small-pox. The Indians never suffer from diseases of the digestive organs, though dry fish and berries are their invariable food. ‘They have sore eyes, in consequence of the smoke of their badly ventilated huts, and consumption is common among them, in consequence of poor clothing and shelter, combined with the use of a scanty and innutritious quality of food. On reviewing the whole route, the unequalled and unparalleled good health of the several parties operating over an extent of country eighteen hundred miles in length appears remarkable, especially when we consider the hardships and exposure necessarily incident to such operations. Not a case of fever or ague occurred. Such a state of health can only be accounted ~ for by the great salubrity of the country explored, and its freedom from malarious or other epidemic diseases. CHAPTER IV. Railroad Practicability of the Section to the base of the Mountains.— Geographical Importance of the Bois des Sioux.—Navigability of the Missouri River. To present the geography, adaptation of the country to settlement, facilities of railroad con- struction, as materials, communication and physical circumstances, the route will be subdivided as follows: 1. The region from the Great lakes to the Grand Plateau of the Bois des Sioux; 2. From the Grand Plateau of the Bois des Sioux to the valley of the Mouse river ; 3. From Mouse river to the plateau between the Milk and Missouri rivers ; 4, The region of the Rocky and Coeur d’Alene mountains; and, 5. The Cascades. The Grand Plateau of the Bois des Sioux and the Mouse River valley are the two keys of rail- road communication from the Mississippi river westward through the Territory of Minnesota. The Bois des Sioux is a river believed to be navigable for steamers of light draught, flowing north- ward from Lake ‘Traverse into the Red river of the North; and the plateau of the Bois des Sioux may be considered as extending from south of Lake Traverse to the south bend of the Red river, and from the Rabbit river, some thirty miles east of the Bois des Sioux river, to the Dead Colt Hillock. This plateau separates the rivers flowing into Hudson’s bay from those flowing into the Mississippi river. ‘The Mouse River valley, in the western portion of Minnesota, is from ten to twenty miles broad; is separated from the Missouri river by the Coteau du Missouri, some six hundred feet high, and it is about the same level as the parallel valley of the Missouri. 1. The plateau of the Bois des Sioux will be a great centre of population and communication. Tt connects with the valley of the Red river of the North, navigable four hundred miles for steamers of three or four feet draught, with forty-five thousand square miles of arable and timber land ; and with the valley of the Minnesota, also navigable at all seasons, when not obstructed by ice, one hundred miles for steamers, and occasionally a hundred miles farther. The head of naviga- tion of the Red river of the North is within one hundred and ten miles of the navigable portion of the Mississippi, and is distant only forty miles from the Minnesota. Eastward from these valleys to the great lakes, the country on both sides of the Mississippi is rich, and much of it heavily timbered. The great namber of streams affords extraordinary facilities for bringing sup- plies to market. Roads can be run to the several crossings of the Mississippi from Dubuque, which affords the most direct communication with Chicago, to Little Falls, which affords the most direct communication with Lake Superior. Little Falls, indeed, is the best crossing of the whole. It is only three hundred and twenty-five feet long, and is in two channels of one hundred and twenty-five and two hundred feet. ‘The line thence to the Bois des Sioux is better than the other lines in crossing the heads of streams and furnishing greater supplies of timber. And as the country east of the Mississippi from the Little Falls furnishes extraordinary facilities for railroad construction, and especially an excellent connexion with St. Paul, the head of naviga- tion of the Mississippi river, the Little Falls will be adopted as the point of crossing the Missis- sippl. The route thence to Chicago can be either direct by St. Paul, or by Stillwater, on the St. Croix, with a branch to St. Paul. In the location of the road, the routes to the other good crossings should be examined. The most important crossings are near the Falls of St. Anthony, at the rapids near the mouth of Sauk 84 NAVIGABILITY OF THE MISSOURI. river, and at the several points for two miles above these rapids, at the ferry near the mouth of Swan river, and at the Little Falls. No difficulty will be experienced in locating the road from the plateau of the Bois des Sioux to the valley of Mouse river. It should keep south of the Shayenne, the northern limit of the plateau, to avoid the severe crossing of that river, and, pursuing a course north of the Dead Colt Hillock, keep along the dividing ridge between the Shayenne river and the Riviére a Jacques. On this portion of the road there is a scarcity of timber, and for a portion of the way water must be brought in aqueducts from the lakes on the Coteau du Missouri, which may be used both in running the road and in the growth of cotton-wood on the line of the road for supplies of fuel. Timber and fuel can be brought to the plateau in great quantities from the Red river of the North, and considerable supplies can be procured from the Shayenne. Lignite coal has been found on the Mouse river, and further search may lead to the discovery of beds of bituminous coal. 3. From the valley of Mouse river the route to the plateau between the Milk and Missouri rivers must pass over the Coteau du Missouri at grades of not exceeding forty feet to the mile, and, descending into the valley of the Missouri river either by the Grand Coulée or the Big Muddy river, at grades not exceeding forty feet to the mile, can take two directions, either along the valley of the Milk river, toa point north of the Bear’s Paw mountains, or, crossing the Milk river near its mouth, can pursue an intermediate course between the Milk and Missouri rivers, passing through the Bear’s Paw mountains. The second route, involving the intricacies of the Bear’s Paw mountains, and not having been examined by an estimating engineer, will not be considered in this report. It will save perhaps twenty miles in distance, and should be examined previous to the location of the road. The valley of the Milk river has extraordinary railroad facilities—in its water, its groves of cotton-wood, its materials for ballasting; and is in connexion at several points with the Missouri river, as a line of supplies and communication to Fort Union, which may be reached by a spur road at the mouth of the Big Muddy, and at the mouth of the Milk river. This will render available for the road the resources in timber and stone of tle upper Missouri and Yellowstone. From the great lakes, therefore, to the plateau at the vase of the mountains, the road has several solutions, involving no higher grade than forty feet, and that for a few miles passing for the most part through a rich country, part of it heavily timbered and well watered; a deficiency of wood and water in other parts easily supplied by aqueducts, by the growth of cotton-wood, by the connexion of the Missouri and the Yellowstone, of the Red river of the North, the Shay- enne and the Mouse rivers. In this connexion I willrefer to the general character of the Missouri as a line of communication in the construction of the road. The Missouri is navigable as high as the mouth of the High Wood creek, fifteen miles below the Great Falls of the Missouri, by steamers drawing eightcen to twenty inches of water at all seasons of the year, when not obstructed by ice, and for steamers drawing two and a half to three feet for one-half the season. Its principal tributary, the Yellowstone, is also navigable for steamers for two hundred miles, and still farther for keel-boats and canoes. None of the rivers of the upper Missouri are navigable, except, perbaps, the Marias, which is said to be navigable for steamers of light draught some fifty miles. There are two rises in the river, occurring in May and June, caused by the melting of the snows of the prairies and the mountains, which facilitate very much the navigation of the river. The distance from its mouth to Fort Union is 1,900 miles, and to the mouth of the High Wood creek about 2,430 miles. From the mouth of the river to the Great Bend the country admits of almost continuous settlement; thence to Fort Union, only about one-fourth could well be cultivated. Above Fort Union there are many extensive bottoms adapted to agriculture, and much arable land in the vicinity of Fort Benton, especially on the High Wood creck. The immense quantity of game along the whole course of the river to below the Great Bend, is an evidence of its goodness as a grazing country. ‘The obstructions consist in snags, sawyers, and saud-bars, rapids, chains of rock, through which there is but one channel, NAVIGABILITY OF THE MISSOURI. 85 and strong northwest winds. In the upper Missouri, rocks are occasionally found in the channel, brought down by the ice. To remove snags and sawyers, snag-boats should ascend the river every two or three years. Inthe vicinity of Fort Union, and at other points of the river, both above and below Fort Union, the channel is very narrow and tortuous. The worst rapids are encountered above the mouth of the Muscle Shell river, and are par- ticularly described in Lieut. Grover’s report. Only at the Dauphin rapid is the current as great as four and a half miles per hour ; besides which, the channel is crooked and obstructed by boulders. A rapid having but fifteen inches of water occurs five miles below Fort Benton; but from the character of the bottom, it is the opinion of Lieut. Grover that steamers of eighteen inches would make their way over it; and of Lieut. Saxton, that even a steamer drawing twenty inches would meet with no difficulty. No other rapids have twenty inches or more of water. The stones which occur in the channel could easily be removed by providing a boat with suitable grappling-hooks, with which she can hitch on to a rock in her way and drop down with it into deeper water, with very little detention. Above the mouth of the Platte, the river is closed by ice from the middle of November to the Ist of April. The temperature, however, is milder in ascending the Missouri, and winters fre- quently occur in the vicinity of Fort Benton when the river is not closed by ice more than three months. The average time for steamers ascending the river to Fort Union has been forty-two days, and of descending eighteen days. The steamers, however, have not been of a good class, and the round trip has been made in less than fifty days, starting when the river was low, and making the trip in July and August. Above Independence, moreover, steamers never run at night, from the want of knowledge which prevails of the channel; and frequent stoppages have to be made for fuel, which in all cases has to be cut by the crew after leaving the settlements. With first-class boats having powerful engines, and with suitable depots for fuel, three round trips per year could be made to Fort Union, and perhaps four. With the present imperfect arrangements, there is no difficulty in making two trips. It will become a most important line of communication in transporting supplies of all kinds, workmen, tools, provisions, machinery, and railroad iron, to the section which, resting.on the Missouri from Fort Union to Milk river, is pushed eastward to the Mississippi, and westward to the mountains. The upper Missouri can be made use of to transport workmen, provisions, and supplies of all kinds. From Fort Union to Fort Benton, the time occupied ought not to exceed five or six days. With the use of the navigable portions of the Marias river, it will become a vital element in the construction of the Rocky mountain section. The Missouri river will also prove valuable as an emigrant route ; but when the railroad is completed, its importance will chiefly be confined to the towns and cities on its banks. This river will, with the Yellowstone, furnish timber for the section at Fort Union. For a more detailed description of the Missouri river, I refer you to the reports of Lieuten- ants Donelson, Saxton, and Grover, which will be found in the appendix. (See E No. 14, E No. 15, and EK No. 16.) Lieutenants Donelson and Grover made the survey of the river, and Lieu- tenant Saxton went down in a keel-boat drawing eighteen inches of water at the lowest stage, and carefully considered, from the experience thus gained, the practical difficulties in the way of steamboat navigation. He has had much experience in the use of steamers in shallow rivers. In this connexion it will not be out of place to refer to the opinions of the members of the Fur Companies who have been, and are now, in charge of posts on the Missouri— as Robert Campbell, Alexander Culbertson, Mr. Clarke, and others, who, simply from their own practical experience in the use of keel-boats, have long been satisfied as to the navigability of this river for steamers, and would not hesitate to employ them did their business warrant it; and to the experience of the Nicaragua transit route, where iron-hull stern-wheel boats are in use, drawing from thirteen to 86 EXTRACTS FROM LANDER’S REPORT. seventeen inches of water, and carrying four hundred passengers with their baggage; and of the Alleghany river, in Pennsylvania, and the Little Tombigbee, in Alabama. Moreover, I have submitted the practical difficulties of the navigation of the Missouri, with its currents, rapids, sand-bars, and sudden deflections, to the consideration of experienced men, who have been the pioneers on these rivers, and are skilled both in the construction and the running of boats, and they are satisfied that steamers of very considerable tonnage, and carrying many passengers, can be used on this river the entire distance to the vicinity of the Falls. The following extracts from the reports of Messrs. Lander and 'Tinkham, giving the results of personal examinations between the headwaters of the Mississippi and the Rocky mountains, are here given as highly descriptive of the characteristic features of this portion of the route. 1. Extracts from Mr. Lander’s report of February 15th, 1854.—The road from Bois des Sioux to the head of the Coteau du Missouri should pass north of the Coteau des Prairies, near Dead Colt Hillock, along the dividing ridge between the Jacques and Shayenne rivers to the headwaters of the Jacques, and avoid the bad crossings of the Shayenne river, which occur on the line of the odometer survey. There is a scarcity of timber upon the route ; but lignite coal is found in quantity in the valley of the Mouse river, and, by the use of proper blast in furnaces, may become of service. Cotton-wood occurs in the valley of the Shayenne, although it is not abun- dant. The soil upon the line is fertile; groves of timber can be readily grown during the period required for grading the road. Sufficient stone for culvert masonry can be found among the boulders upon the hill-sides in the vicinity of the Shayenne river, and the line will pass suffi- ciently near the Shayenne to secure the advantages to be derived from its valley, either in pastur- age, timber, or stone for culvert masonry. 'Twenty miles west of the “ Maison du Chien” oceur ledges of sandstone, from which excellent materials for masonry may be furnished for long sections of the road, At the headwaters of the Shayenne, and at the Dead Colt Hillock and “ Lightning’s Nest,” fine material for ballasting may be found—a fact of much importance to this division of the road, which, passing over low prairie country and in cutting through a pebbly limestone gravel mixed with clay, will need ballasting throughout. The portion extending through the salt- water region will need particular attention, regarding a supply of pure water for the use of engines. The proper mode of overcoming this difficulty will be, by extending an aqueduct along the line of the road from the lakes upon the Grand Coteau du Missouri. As the line will skirt the northern extremity of the Grand Coteau, the location of this work will not be difficult. Good brick-clay is found near the Maison du Chien, and the upland lakes of that vicinity are of sufficient height above the grade of the road to afford the requisite facility. I recommend a descent from the head of the Grand Coteau to the valley of Milk river by the Grand Coulée. It would by a spur road easily connect with Fort Union. From the Big Muddy the line would pass to the valley of Milk river, through which it continues for a long distance to a point of departure north of Bear’s Paw mountain, and thence along the north bank of the Marias to the great valley of the Dry Branch; then crossing the Marias, makes ascent through the valley of the Dry Branch in a southwesterly direction towards the grand approaches of Lewis and Clark’s Pass of the Rocky mountains, crossing the headwaters of Teton, Sun, and Beaver rivers. Grizzly Bear lake, lying between the headwaters of the Sun and Beaver rivers, can be formed into an unfailing reservoir for supplying the line, by the erection of a dam at its lower extremity, and by turning the water of a small mountain stream into the lake. The line passes near Grizzly Bear lake, and for several miles the grade is a gentle descent towards the Marias river. By the use of the yellow mountain pine, abundant in the vicinity, a line of logs could be laid along the route, and furnish water to the road for the supply of the engines and the employés— the temporary structure eventually superseded by proper iron castings or brickwork. Good brick-clay is found in quantity near Grizzly Bear lake. j All difficulties of construction may be overcome upon this important division at reasonable EXTRACTS FROM TINKHAM’S REPORT. 87 cost. The great valley of Milk river affords remarkable facilities for construction, as regards grading and the immediate use of the rail. Vicinity to the Missouri aids transportation of tim- ber from the mountains by rafting. An embankment road-bed must be resorted to in the valley of Milk river, to guard against rise of water upon the bottom land over which the line will pass. 2. Extracts from Mr. Tinkham’s report.—From the Mississippi a vast prairie stretches westward to the base of the Rocky mountains, 1,136 miles; and a breadth of 402 miles of wooded and mountain country lies between the prairies and the great Columbia river plains. These prai- ries reach down to the bottom lands of the Columbia, whose valley, including that of its trib ‘tary, the Cowlitz, is traced to the shores of Puget sound—a third portion of 507 miles. 'Lhese are the measured distances of the railway route hereafter defined, and are changed by adopting for portions of the line other practicable or probably practicable routes. From the Mississippi to the bottom levels of the Missouri are certain prominent and unusual features, the knowledge of which is of great service in directing the location of the line of rail- way, the easiest and cheapest line between the headwaters of the Mississippi and the great northern bend which the Missouri makes near the mouth of the Yellowstone. It may nevertheless be observed, with reference to the region lying between the Mississippi and Missouri, that so far destitute is it of serious obstacles, that the great selection of a railway route uniting the two rivers may be determined by the commercial relation rather than by the physical features of the coun- try traversed. The section of Minnesota east of the Mississippi, passed over by the exploration, presents few difficulties to the building of a railroad. Obstructed by no mountain ranges, and diversified by lightly-wooded lands, the fertile belt of prairie bordering on the river affords a good location. Farther interior, on the east, and to the north and northwest, are the wooded and lumber sec- tions. Bordering on the Missouri, and running parallel with it, is the Plateau du Coteau du Missouri— a high rolling plateau, having an average breadth of some 60 to 80 miles, rising from 400 to 800 feet above the bed of the river. This plateau, remarkable for its uniformity and extent from below the latitude 44°, stretches north and west into the British possessions, and probably here retains its characteristic features as the dividing ridge between the waters of the Sascat- chawan and the Missouri, until absorbed in the bolder elevations of the eastern slope of the Rocky mountains. The passage of the plateau by a railway will by no means be impracticable with a careful selection of route; but it can rarely be done without a loss of grade greater than 400 feet. East of the plateau and parallel with it, at distances of from 20 to 50 miles from its eastern edge. flows Riviére a Jacques, or James river, finding its source near the headwaters of the Shayenne, and having with that river, for some 100 miles, nearly the same general southeasterly course. The general surface of the high plains through which these two streams find their descent—the one fo the Red river of the North, the other to discharge its waters into the Missouri—is here 400 to 600 feet lower than the plateau. Of this summit-ground, distributing and dividing the waters to their northern or southern slopes, the extensive flat or prairie through which flows the Bois des Sioux river is the eastern limit. The connexion between this prairie and the Mississippi is along the sources of the tributaries to the Minnesota river. Crossing these streams in their infancy, and before the crossing of the several valleys, is objectionable. Carrying the line northwardly to the great bend of the Missouri, we avoid a difficult and ob- jectionable river-crossing, and, what is of more importance, head what is represented as the extensive, broken, and tumultuous region of country south and west of the Missouri and ex- tending to the Platte, and known as the Black Hills. The railroad route from St. Paul keeps up the left bank of the Mississippi, crosses at Little 88 EXTRACTS FROM TINKHAM’S REPORT. Falls, continues along the dividing ridge between the Mississippi, Red river, and the Minnesota, until entering upon the prairie of the Bois des Sioux, pursues its same general direction through this prairie, passes thence on to the summit-grounds between the James and Shayenne rivers, and finally, without losing its elevation, enters and passes the great plateau of the Missouri by a coulée connecting the two valleys of the Mouse and Missouri rivers, and for a time piercing the barrier which separates them. Proceeding up the Missouri from the mouth of the Great Muddy river to the entering of Milk river, the railroad line for nearly 180 miles follows the favorable valley of this latter stream; then, leaving it, passes on to the prairies, and so continues until within a few miles of the mo ntain pass, crossing in succession Marias, Teton, and Sun rivers, with the tributaries of Dearborn river. CHAE HEV" Details of Excavations and Embankments.—Supplies of Wood, Water, Stone, and other materials, To go over the (railroad) line, as shown on the map, more carefully, and in sufficient detail to give its general features. The Mississippi at St. Paul flows some one hundred and fifty feet below the high prairies in the rear of the town. The connexion between the Mississippi and the higher ground is made with a forty-foot grade. With but little variation of surface or soil the line follows the general direction of the river, passing over prairies or oak uplands, to Sauk rapids, and thence to Little Falls, one hundred and twelve miles. In this interval the soil generally consists of a vegetable mould of trom one to four feet depth, resting on a gravelly or sandy substratum, affording the best material for a firm and dry road embankment. On the right, and farther interior, is the heavily wooded and timber country of Minnesota, the tamarac swamps occasionally approaching the line. No rock cutting was observed, though rock was found in place near St. Anthony’s Falls, and in the vicinity of Sauk rapids. The grades along the east bank of the Mississippi are light, seldom exceeding ten feet per mile. The bridge crossings are, Rice creek, sixty feet; Coon creek, sixty feet; Rum river, one hundred and fifty feet; Elk river, one hundred and twenty feet. The culvert masonry is small, and the earth-work will not exceed an average embankment of six feet. For structures, both of wood and stone, the material is good and near at hand. Of lumber, the yellow and white pines, larch and cedar, are abundantly manufactured on the St. Croix and the different tributaries of the Mississippi, and with these woods the white, black, and bur oaks, ash and sugar maple. All of these different species of lumber are manufactured near the line of the road. Granite was found in place near Sauk rapids. An inferior limestone is obtained in the vicinity of St. Anthony and St. Paul, but it is probable that for the present, lime must be obtained from a point lower down on the Mississippi. The crossing at Little Falls requires but three hundred and twenty-five feet of bridge, in two stretches, the river being divided by an island. The river is crossed at right-angles. The abutment rests on rock. Crossing at the falls, the bridge presents no obstruction to navi- gation. : The crossing at Little Falls affords a good connexion with a line from Lake Superior, and enters, on the west shore, a better wooded country than will be obtained by going farther south, and over which it will probably be practicable to build a firmer and drier road-bed. The crossings at St. Anthony Falls and the Sauk rapids are eight hundred feet and six hun- dred feet respectively, both feasible and giving fair facilities. In the next hundred and twenty-eight miles, to the Bois des Sioux prairie, the line passes successively through a wooded and prairie country, and thenceforward to the Rocky mount- ains the growth of wood is confined to the bottoms of rivers and the borders of lakes. The rise in this interval is about three hundred feet. The ground is rolling, sometimes showing. stony and gravelly knolls, and is frequently interrupted by small lakes. The earth-work for this hundred and twenty-eight miles will not exceed an average embank- ment of eight feet height, and is occasionally stony. Granite boulders, at occasional intervals, 12 f 90 EXCAVATIONS AND EMBANKMENTS., are scattered on the surface. Side ditching is often necessary in flat and low places, but for the main part of the distance the excavation is light and gravelly. There is no rock excavation. Grades of thirty feet per mile will occasionally be required in the limited region of knolly, rolling country, but will generally not exceed ten feet. Crossing the tributaries of the Minnesota at their sources, the amount of bridge work will be small; an estimate of two hundred feet on the small streams of the Crow, South Branch, and Chippewa rivers, covers the whole. The culverts will be small and frequent in number. The pine and wooded region through which the line passes is estimated to extend westward from the Mississippi eighty miles. The numerous beautiful lakes are often surrounded with a handsome growth of wood, mainly elm and poplar. The supplies of lumber will, however, be drawn mostly from the Mississippi and the pine region to the west of it, and with small expense of transportation. Stone is found in places only at the Mississippi. The granite boulders are found at some sixty miles west of the Mississippi, and will supply the culvert masonry. Stone for the small amount of bridge abutments must be brought from the Mississippi, unless further explorations discover the formation of good building material. Thenceforward to the valley of the Missouri the total rise is about 700 feet. In this portion is included the prairie of the Bois des Sioux, a remarkable flat of some forty miles width, almost an absolute plain, and from whose eastern verge the eye seeks in vain, on its shadowy, monotonous surface of coarse, dark grass, any relieving undulation, or tree or shrub. Through this remarkable prairie the Bois des Sioux and Wild Rice rivers make their way to join the Red river of the North, in narrow, canal-like channels, with miry sides and bottoms. ‘The elm and oak are found on these two streams, either threading their banks or grouped together in handsome clusters. The water-level was, in the latter part of June, when crossed by our train, some eighteen feet below the edges of the banks, but high deposits of drift stuff had been made on the banks, and were found even at several miles distance from the river. In the breaking up of winter, and with the spring rains, this prairie is undoubtedly very wet and marshy, and, to a great extent, covered with standing water, though at small depth. Between this prairie and the Shayenne the land becomes undulating and dry; and, in the vicinity of that river, sand-hillocks, and in some instances sand-blufls, show themselves. The Shayenne flows in a deep valley, 150 to 200 feet below the general prairie level, and with a valley one-quarter to three-quarters of a mile wide. The bottom is fairly wooded with elm, oak, ash, poplar, &c. At the first crossing made of this river by the train, its width was sixty feet, its depth fourteen feet, with freshet marks eighteen feet above the water-level. At the second crossing its width was fifty feet, its depth three and a half feet, the immediate banks miry in both cases. These crossings would be expensive and cause much loss of grade, and are avoided in the direction given to the route. Granite boulders of large size are frequent on the high grounds bordering on the river, and at one place east of the second crossing it was supposed that granite was found in place. From the bend of the Shayenne to Mouse river the country is nearty uniform, gradually rising, is in part undulating, but has many small lakes, and is often marshy. Riviére a Jacques is crossed with a width of some 120 feet. This river has probably very little wood on it within reach of the route. There is a general destitution of wood throughout this interval, and it is only rarely that one finds a growth of wood on the numerous small lakes, and the small tributaries of the James river. The vegetable mould, not over-deep at Shayenne river, gradually decreases, and the soil is gen- erally thin at the source of the Shayenne and James rivers. Thence the soil improves until we reach the Mouse river, where there is much good arable land. The Shayenne river, with a curve from the north, appears to retain its character, as already observed, with a deep valley, high, steep banks, wooded bottom, and much the same formation EXCAVATIONS AND EMBANKMENTS. 91 of clay and sand, intermixed with gravel and pebbles, as lower down. It is probably wooded as far as Miniwakan lake, and at the final crossing by the train near the source of one of its forks, was even then noticeable for its deep valley and steep banks. Mouse river isa large stream of water, and, after the Red river of the North, is the most import- ant river on the ronte between the Mississippi and Missouri. It flows in a deep, wide valley, upwards of 200 feet below the prairie level, with a width of bottom varying from a half to two miles ; is wooded, and sometimes heavily wooded, with a growth of elm, oak, ash, and probably with other woods. Its high and steep banks, of about the same formation as belongs to the Shayenne, are cut by deep coulées, extending back from the river ten and fifteen miles, having generally a fertile soil and scattered trees. These coulées are difficult of passage with wagons, and the construction of a railroad across them would be attended with heavy embankments and culvert masonry, and with great expense. The location of the line has been so chosen as to head them. At Mouse river a coarse, gray sandstone crops out, and may furnish some fair building-stone. Near by, at the Butte Maison de Chien, examined by Mr. Lander, he reports an abundance of excellent sandstone for building. Mouse river is about 120 feet wide, and was, apparently, as much as seven feet deep, and is navigable for a long distance, and possibly quite to Red river. The information obtained in regard to it was, from one source, that no obstruction to its navigation existed as far down as its mouth ; from another source, that there was one intervening rapid. Its navigability would be of service in transporting materials, and its valley, with many fertile and pleasing locations, offers greater inducements for settlement than are to be found for a long distance on either side of it. The interval remaining to the high plateau hiding the valley occupied by the railroad from the Missouri, is by the River of the Lakes, a tributary of Mouse river—small, but possessing in its deep, wide valley and coulées much of the same character. It is wooded for only a small extent. From the head of the River of the Lakes, a favoring and singular, coulée breaks the Plateau du Coteau du Missouri, and, with a grade not exceeding forty feet per mile, the line passes through to the bottom lands of the Missouri. From the commencement of the Bois des Sioux prairie to Missouri river, the earth-work would not be heavy, nor of an expensive nature. An average embankment of seven feet would cover the earth-work. The excavation of the Bois des Sioux prairie is easy, approaching and bordering on the Shayenne; boulders and stones are often mingled with the soil, adding to the expense of removal; and this last character of formation is, at intervals, met with all along the line, while, in general, the substratum appears to be a clayey loam. Of rock excavation there is none. Except in crossing the divide, grades need not exceed thirty feet per mile, and will rarely be so great. The Bois des Sioux will require a bridge of 140 feet; the Wild Rice river 120 feet; a small stream near Wild Rice river shouid be spanned by a hundred-foot truss, and James river will require 120 feet of bridge. The culvert masonry will be small in amount; but care should be taken in side-ditching, and the prairie embankment should always be as high as four feet, both to obtain a dry and firm road- bed, and for the disposal of the winter snows. Wood will be scantily furnished from the route of the road for its construction. The Bois des Sioux and Wild Rice rivers will furnish a small amount. The Shayenne will furnish sleepers for 200 miles of the way, single rail. We do not know that James river will furnish any. Wooded lakes occasionally aid in the supply. Mouse river is liberally wooded, and I think may be depended upon to furnish 200 miles with sleepers. The connexion with the Mississippi and Red rivers at one end, and with the Missouri at the other, will make up any deficiency in the superstructure; but the Missouri bottoms furnish little but the sweet cotton-wood, a soft, porous and inferior wood, and not to be used when other can be obtained at a reasonable expense. 92 NATURAL RESOURCES OF THE COUNTRY. The red cedar, in small quantities, grows both above and below Fort Union. A good deal of valuable white oak can be obtained from Red river. From all these sources [ estimate that the road can be fitted with its superstructure, and with good materials, and be supplied with fuel for at least six years’ running time, full operation, and from its various connexions could indefinitely extend this period, but with considerable expense for transportation. Coal, according to Dr. Owen, exists in the lower part of Minnesota and in Iowa; and while our exploration has ascer- tained the existence of an inferior coal in Mouse River valley, the information obtained there makes it probable that a better coal is to be found in that region. Stone for masonry is also scarce, and but little is needed. The frequency of the granite boulders will be of service in the building of culverts, and to some degree may aid in constructing the small amount of bridge abutments. Building-stone in abundance can be obtaimed from near the Butte Maison de Chien, and possibly the sandstone of Mouse river will be found of value. At Mouse, Shayenne, Bois des Sioux, and Wild Rice rivers, but with better facility at Red river, all the materials for good bricks are obtained, and it may be found cheaper and better to use brick masonry in the neighboring bridge and culvert works, Water can, by reservoirs and unimportant aqueducts, be introduced at any point of the line required. The numerous small lakes extending along the greater part of the distance will, in this way, be of service. A little east from the second crossing of the Shayenne were observed the first indications of approach to the ‘salt-water region.”” Throughout this region, extending from this point to the Mouse River valley, small ponds and lakes are to be found, (brackish and slightly salt) and frequently with white salt incrustations of small amount on their borders. More abundant than these salt-water lakes, and constantly intermixed with them, are the small fresh-water ponds and lakes, occurring quite as often as is desirable either for travelling or railroad purposes. With this abundant supply no unusual construction or expense will be required in establishing watering-places. With noon and night halts at intervals averaging less than ten miles distance, there was never a deficiency of fresh-water. Prairie fires should be provided against by side-ditching. The grass is not tall and heavy, and with proper provision no injury to the wood need be anticipated from this source. Proceeding up the Missouri, from the mouth of the Great Muddy river to the entrance of Milk river, the railroad line, for near 180 miles, follows up the favorable valley of this latter stream ; then leaving it, passes on to the prairies, and so continues until within a few miles of the mountain pass; crossing in succession Marias, ‘Teton, and Sun rivers, with the tributaries of Dearborn river. The route considered enters the mountains by the pass which, in our survey, has been termed Lewis and Clark’s Pass; the more northern of the two opening into the valley of Blackfoot river, or by ‘* Cadotte’s Pass””—a second entrance into that valley. Missouri river is, in the vicinity of Fort Union, some four hundred and fifty yards wide, and, so far as followed by the route, has a wide bottom of from two to eight miles across. The river is well wooded with the sweet cotton-wood, and has a small quantity of red cedar. On the south side rise the Mauvaises Terres hills, making up to some three hundred to five hundred feet height, whose name well defines their character—bare, and broken into every irregularity, washed with gulleys and ravines, and yet whose silvery glistening front, with its blended light and shade, is often a landscape feature of wonderful beauty. On the north side, also, the bluffs generally rise abruptly, and a few miles back of the river the plains attain an elevation above it of from one hundred to three hundred feet. A coarse soft sandstone crops out often in the edge of the bluffs, and apparently underlies the whole surface extending to the upper Missouri above Fort Benton. ‘The bottom-lands are almost flat, descending slightly towards the river. The Missouri has probably but a small fall—a fall which, according to the barometric observations, does not exceed one foot per mile. By the various windings of the route, Milk river enters the Missouri some one hundred and NATURAL RESOURCES OF THE COUNTRY. 93 twenty miles above Fort Union, and the line traces its course for some one hundred and eighty miles. Comparatively a small stream, it yet shows much the same features as the Missouri; has a wide, open intervale, half to four miles wide; is closed in on either side by the bluffs ter- minating the plains, which ascend as they recede from the river, the bluffs being very frequently cut with deep coulées, which can be traced five, ten, or fifteen miles into the interior. The river is plentifully supplied with cotton-wood, and its bottom-lands are flat and generally wide. At the first crossing of this river by the train, some fifiy miles above its mouth, the bed of the stream had a width of two hundred and twenty-five feet; the running water was but fifty feet wide and two and a half feet deep, with a sandy bottom, and banks of clay and sand rising some fifteen feet above the water-level, unstable, and often displaced by the river in its annual floods. At the third crossing, by the winding of the wagon road, a little more than one hundred and eighty miles above its mouth, the river retained nearly the same width of bed and genera] features, but with no running stream, the water remaining in the depressions and holes in its bed. The bottom-lands, both of the Missouri and Milk rivers, are composed of clay and sand, of a nature to become soft and sloppy with the wet of spring, and on the dry season succeeding, becom- ing parched and cracked. The prairie and upland formations are remarkably undeviating in their character, consisting of a mixture of clay and sand, intermixed with smooth pebbles, extending below the surface only from one to three feet, and below all, the underlying coarse sandstone The clay washed by the rains finds its way into the coulées and the bottom of the river, leaving the exposed pebbles on the surface, deceiving one with the appearance of gravelly or stony knolls. This section does not offer the best, but will afford a fair material for road embankment. The tributary rivers on the north side for which bridges must be erected are Great Muddy river, Poplar river, and Porcupine river—all small streams, with an average width of sixty feet, and greatest depth three feet, at our several crossings. The Missouri and Milk river bottoms possess one peculiar feature, for which provision must be made in constructing a railroad. At short intervals, averaging not over eight miles for the whole river line, narrow canal-like channels are found generally extending from the coulées of the bluffs, for the greater part dry in summer, but in spring freshets are the sluices by which the water from the rain and snow finds its passage to the river. These channels or sloughs have an average width of twenty-five feet, with a depth of eight feet, and should be spanned with a simple timber structure to prevent the accumulation of water and injury to the road-bed. The high prairie plateau which the road attains on leaving Milk river reaches to the base of the Rocky mountains, and is marked with but little variation of surface. The same formation of clay and sand, with more or less admixture of pebbles, continues as on the prairies, running back from the Missouri and Milk rivers. There is a scarcity of wood and water. The soil at first possesses little fertility, scantily shaded with a short thin grass; gradually improving as the ap- proach is made to the mountains. Through this plateau the rivers Marias and Teton flow in deep channels, concealed from sight till one is close upon them, with bottoms fairly wooded with cotton- wood one-quarter to half a mile wide, and marked by the deep coulées intersecting their valleys. These two rivers, in the vicinity of the railroad line, are about two hundred and one hundred and twenty feet wide, and flow some two hundred feet below the general level of the prairie. The water is no longer muddy or milky, as in the Missouri, with its lower tributaries, but is clear and cool, flowing over a pebbly and sandy bottom. The passage of the Marias river is one of some difficulty and expense, owing to the depth of the river below the prairie. The Teton is crossed high up, and with less difficulty. Sun river is crossed near its source, and with ease. From the Great Muddy river to the base of the Rocky mountains there is a river line for two hundred and sixty-five miles, and the balance is of prairie. The earth-work in all this extent will not be heavy. An average embankment of eight feet will more than cover it. The material, as already stated, is a mixture of clay and sand, not a light loam, but easily broken up with the 94 NATURAL RESOURCES OF THE COUNTRY. plough or pick, exposing a smooth and steep surface where undermined by brooks, and sliding at a steep angle. ; It is not known that any rock excavation will be necessary. Occasionally a spur of coarse gray sandstone, in broken detached masses, shoots across the line from the river bluffs, but gen- erally not without the opportunity of turning it. ‘I'wo miles of side-cut rock excavation will cover this item. The grades and curves are probably unequalled by any existing railroad of the same extent. On the river-bottoms there will rarely be occasion to exceed the rise of the rivers, by observation there being, for the Missouri about one foot to the mile, and for Milk river three feet to the mile. The rise from Milk river to the plains is made with a grade of thirty-five feet to the mile. The coulées making down to Marias and Teton rivers, aflords opportunity for crossing these streams with grades not exceeding forty feet per mile. No stream in this section is so large as to require more than a single span of bridge truss. Timber trusses will undoubtedly be found cheapest and best in every case. Great Muddy river, Poplar and Porcupine rivers, will each require eighty-feet trusses, with two abutments. Milk river is crossed in a bend of the stream, at right-angles to the current, is spanned with a truss of about two hundred and forty feet, and has an abutment twenty feet high above the river-bottom. The masonry of this bridge should be protected, by piling, from the wash of the freshets. Marias and Teton rivers will respectively require trusses of about two hundred and twenty and one hun- dred and sixty feet length. The numerous small waterways required on the bottoms of the Missouri and Milk rivers have already been noticed in sufficient detail; as they carry little or no drift-ice and wood, it is not necessary to clear their highest water-line more than six feet. The supplies of wood accessible are the cotton-woods of Missouri and Milk rivers, the wooded mountain termed the “Trois Buttes,’ about sixty miles north of the line, the mountains to the south of the Missouri, near Fort Benton, and the Rocky mountains at the end of the section. The “black growth” of the streams of the Yellowstone becomes, too, tributary to this section at the confluence of this river with the Missouri, near Fort Union, and may be serviceable. Of cotton-wood there is an abundance. In certain situations this wood is durable and use- ful in building, but, as a railroad sleeper, would soon decay; and being, moreover, soft, would not firmly retain the spikes and chains with which the rail is secured. The stockade at Fort Union is of cotton-wood, does not rest on the ground, and although erected some twenty or more years ago, is firm and sound. A small quantity of red cedar grows on the Missouri, and to some small extent will be available in building. The “ Trois Buttes”? above are capable of supplying three hundred miles of sleepers, single rail, and probably more if necessary. These Buttes rise about 3,300 feet above the prairies at their base, and with their wood and stone are a natural storehouse of materials. They are wooded for about half the extent, mainly with spruce and a kind of yel- low pine, the trees being small, from eight inches to two feet in diameter, and growing straight and thickly clustered together. From the base of these mountains a smooth dry prairie extends to the route of the railway; and with but little preparation of grading, rails could be laid to bring this store of wood to the line of the road. The Rocky mountains afford an abundance of excel- lent wood, generally the yellow pine. On the whole this portion of the route may be looked upon as capable of supplying sufficient wood, both as fuel and building material, for present and future use. The lignite of this region, traced from the coulées of Mouse river to the headwaters of Milk river, (a distance of five hundred miles) apparently underlying the whole extensive district of this country, with a thickness of bed varying from a few inches to six feet, isa source of fuel” not to be overlooked. The wooded lands, with proper management and a care for future wants, I judge, will of themselves furnish the amount of fuel needed; but our present estimates as to the business of a railroad traversing this route, and the wants of settlements growing up from the NATURAL RESOURCES OF THE COUNTRY. 95 establishment of the road, may differ very widely from the truth, and it is not unwise to take into consideration this inferior but extensive layer of coal, the working of which may at some time become desirable and profitable. A coarse but generally weak and useless sandstone extends throughout the Missouri and Milk rivers. In some places a firm sandstone, suitable for building, is to be found. Sandstone of this character was noticed near Fort Union, near the last crossing of Milk river, and it is to be obtained in abundance at the “Trois Buttes,” on the eastern base. Several other stones compose these mountains, the most valuable of which is a beautiful marble, at times having an alabaster white- ness and clearness. Lime is to be obtained from near Fort Benton, from the “Trois Buttes,” and from the Rocky mountains. i Sand, though in a clean state not abundant, is to be found in the beds of the rivers, and occasionally at other places in limited quantities. Good materials for brick are furnished on the Missouri and Milk rivers. Throughout the dry summer and fall season most of the small tributaries making into Missouri and Milk rivers are dried up, and both in the intervale and on the prairie there is a scarcity of water. The high plateau making back from these rivers affords, however, the opportunity of securing the necessary supplies by reservoirs ; and protected from evaporation, there is no reason to doubt that water for the uses of a railroad can be supplied as conveniently here as on the States’ roads. For much valuable information in reference to the country east of the mountains, I will refer you to Mr. Lander’s report of the crossings of the Mississippi, D No. 11; Lieutenant Grover’s report of the Dead Colt Hillock line, D No. 10; Lieutenant Donelson’s report of the country between the White Earth and Big Muddy rivers, E No. 14; Mr. Tinkham’s report of his recon- naissance of the Three Buttes and the country between the Milk and Marias rivers, D No. 12; and Doctor Evans’s report of his route south of the Missouri, and between the Milk and Missouri rivers, D No. 13. Iam particularly indebted to the perseverance and skill of Messrs. Lander and Tinkham for much of the valuable statistical information given in this chapter. CHAPTER Vi. Railroad Practicability of the Rocky and Coeur d’ Alene Mountains.—Description of the ranges and of the several passes. In determining the route through the Rocky mountains, regard must be had to the difficulties of approach as well as to the difficulties in the pass itself. Before considering the question, it will first be necessary to show the route through the Coeur d’Alene mountains. The Coeur d’Alene mountains may be regarded as extending from Snake river to Clark’s fork, and as covering from two to three degrees of longitude. Clark’s fork separating it from a range still farther north, called the Kootenaies mountains, has its source in the Rocky mountains in two principal branches—one flowing from the south, called the Bitter Root river, and the other flowing from the north, and called the Flathead river. These rivers separate the Coeur d’Alene and Kootenaies mountains from the Rocky mountains, and—with the exception of a mountain spur running down towards their point of junction, giving, however, a good pass from the one valley to the other—they form a continuous valley extending along the western base of the Rocky mountains from 45° 30 of N. latitude to far north into British territory. To the south, however, at the headwaters of the Bitter Root, of the Snake, and the three forks of the Missouri, the Cceur d’Alene unites with the main chain of the Rocky mountains. There are at least four passes in the Coeur d’Alene mountains, well known to the aborigines: the pass of Clark’s fork, the Coeur d’Alene pass by the Coeur d’Alene mission, the northern Nez Perces trail, and the southern Nez Perces trail. The northern Nez Perces trail is the route of Lewis and Clark, and was not examined. The three other passes have been carefully examined by me. There is said, however, to be a fifth trail between the Cceur d’Alene and northern Nez Perces trails, more practicable for wagons than any of the others. This has been explored by Lieutenant Mullan, but his report has not been received. The southern Nez Perces trail leads from the southwest fork of the St. Mary’s river, connect- ing, by a tolerably direct route, St. Mary’s valley with Wallah-Wallah. For 120 miles it passes over wooded mountains, dropping at times into valleys, and, crossing them, ascends the spurs and hills again. Its elevation rarely if ever falls so low as 3,000 feet, and sometimes reaches as high as 8,000 feet—an estimate, the barometer having been cached at the ;height of 7,250 feet. In the month of December, when, with considerable detention and difficulty, Mr. Tinkham crossed the mountains on snow-shoes, the snow was generally about three feet deep, sometimes six feet, and in a single instance, as near as could be ascertained, ten feet deep. The average depth of the snow for the whole 120 miles was a little less than two feet. Tributaries of the Koos-koos-kia head near the sources of the southwest fork of the St. Mary’s river, and offer the only possible chance of getting through the Bitter Root mountain. This direction is by the Koos-koos-kia. A tunnel will be required at the divide separating the two streams. The Koos-koos-kia was crossed near its head, at an elevation of 3,760 feet; its valley in this place is narrow and dark, with steep, rocky and wooded hills enclosing it. It has the same character where it unites with the Clearwater river after leaving the mountain. Between these two points the river has not been examined. The northern Nez Perces trail is very much of the same character, and does not come into competition fora route. ‘The Coeur d’Alene Pass may be briefly described as a pass formed by two streams flowing in opposite directions from two lakes almost half a mile apart. 'The western lake is about 700 feet above the eastern. The two valleys, though ROCKY MOUNTAIN PASSES. 97 narrow and somewhat tortuous, will admit, however, of a railroad at a practicable grade—the eastern one to within from two and a half to three and a half miles of the lake whence the stream has its source; the western valley three and a half to four and a half miles from its lake. These two points are six to eight miles apart, and differ in level some 300 to 500 feet. Between them the valleys rise rapidly, attaining at the two lakes an elevation respectively of 2,000 and 1,300 feet above the western, and 1,500 and 800 above the eastern base. Thus a tunnel having an inclination of 37.5 to 83.3 feet, and six to eight miles long, is the essential con- dition to a road by this route. The route by the Coeur d’Alene mission ts exceedingly direct, both in its own course and in its connexion with the Blackfoot and Hell Gate trails. If practicable, it would abridge distance about seventy miles, equivalent to the cost of a tunnel of about the probable length of the tunnel required on the Coeur d’Alene route. The cost of the tunnel, supposing it to be seven miles long, would be about $5,000,000. It is in limestone entirely, and easily worked. The saving in the length of the road would be, say 70 miles, at $70,000, or in round numbers $5,000,000. It was unfortunate that a barometrical profile could not be taken on this route in consequence of the want of instruments; but Mr. Stanley, an excellent judge of distances and heights, made esti- mates which I am satisfied, from my own personal observation, will prove good approximations. There is a good wagon-road from the mission to Wallah-Wallah, indicated on the map, and it is believed no difficulty would exist in connecting this route, south of the Coeur d’Alene lake, either with the Columbia river or Snoqualme Pass route. The valley of Clark’s fork, however, affords an excellent railroad line presenting no special obstacles; and the question now is, to determine which pass of the Rocky mountains shall be made use of in passing from the plateau between the Milk and Missouri rivers to Clark’s fork. Nine passes have been explored in the Rocky mountains, beginning twenty or thirty miles below the 49th parallel, and extending southwardly three hundred and four miles in latitude, to the most southern pass explored at the source of Jefferson fork. From this pass to Fort Hall, the extreme southern limit of the exploration, the distance in latitude is eighty miles. The northern pass, termed the Marias Pass, where a tributary of Clark’s fork has its spring near the source of the Marias river—elevation 7,669 feet; a pass at the head of Beaver creek on the east, and a tributary of Blackfoot fork on the west—elevation 6,323 feet: this is the pass of Lewis and Clark; Cadotte’s Pass, named from one of our hunters, who used the pass some two years since, forming the headwaters of Dearborn river and Blackfoot fork, 6,044 feet high; a pass at the head of the north branch of the Little Blackfoot fork on the west, and a stream making into the Missouri on the east—elevation 6,283 feet; a pass at the south branch of the Little Blackfoot river; a pass at the head of the Hell Gate river; one from the East fork of the St. Mary’s river to the Wisdom fork of Jefferson river; and, finally, a pass from the East fork of St. Mary’s or Bitter Root river to the Wisdom fork of Jefferson river. Marias Pass, the extreme northerly one of all, is the passage over the mountains by a tributary of Marias river on the east, and of Flathead river on the west, the wooded valley of which leads down to the open, wide valley, where is Flathead lake. 'The branch of Marias river is a mere brook where it leaves the limits of the mountain and passes to the smooth prairies, only nine or ten miles from its source, and the rocky wall-like divide which abruptly terminates its valley, This divide, when crossed at its highest point by the trail, is 7,600 feet above the sea; and its height, where seemed to be the most favorable opportunity of tunnelling, is apparently 500 to 1,000 feet higher. A tunnel of two and a half miles (an uncertain estimate from the manner in which the divide was crossed) would probably reduce the elevation so far as it is practicable to do so by tunnelling, the mountain being pierced at an elevation of 5,450 feet; but the rapid descent of the tributary of Flathead river, to which we pass on the west for the first seventeen miles, in which distance it falls 2,170 feet below the level assigned to the tunnel, is so objection- able that this route is not likely to come into competition with the passes farther south. On the isy 98 ROCKY MOUNTAIN PASSES. other side, the tributary of Marias river descends near 1,200 feet in sixteen miles. There are, probably, passages of the mountains connecting other branches of the Marias river with other tributaries of Flathead river, and giving, perhaps, opportunities for passing the divide with more ease than by the way explored; and should a line in this direction be thought desirable, it should be remembered that the field has been very partially explored. The mountains here have, how- ever, a very different character from what they have farther south, being higher and forbidding, their sharp, gray peaks stripped of all vegetation, in every direction towering above the mass of wooded mountains and valleys below them. A route through this pass can be preferable only as connecting with a route to the north of Flathead river. To follow down the valley of Flathead river after arriving at Flathead lake, will make it greater in length, in addition to its other disadvantages. The reconnaissance did not show that it was impossible to proceed westwardly in a more direct line, but the only two places in the valley containing Flathead lake and river, which were not bounded by high hills or mountains on the western border, are at the north and south extremities of Flathead lake. These were the only places where there appeared any possibility of breaking through the mountains. At the south extremity of Flathead lake is a small break in the hills, running in a nearly west direction, but this small valley has no stream of any importance in it, and there is nothing to show that it extends farther than can be seen from the lake, a half dozen miles. At the upper end of the lake the hills on the west side of the valley appear to cease for a while. There is a prairie here of considerable extent, the eastern edge of which was followed by Mr. Tinkham, and it may be practicable upon this prairie to proceed westwardly direct, without following Flat- head river to Clark’s fork. It is a matter for future examination. Of the route actually ex- amined, Flathead river, from Jocko river to Marias Pass, and from Marias Pass to Fort Benton across the prairie, the most difficult portion has already been noticed, the section of thirty-five miles, including the summit. West of this, for about twenty miles the valley continues narrow, closed in by high, precipitous, wooded mountains, and a railway here must be made with very heavy and expensive work, rock cutting, culvert and bridge work, and sustaining masonry, with some short curves, but without high grades. The valley then opens and closes again but once, and then only for a very short distance, and until reaching Flathead lake the route is very promising in its grades, curves, and the small amount of grading required ; but little rock excava- tion will be necessary. ‘The western shore of Flathead lake crooks abruptly and often, following the base of the wooded and rocky hills which border it. The construction of the road here involves short curves, expensive rock cutting and masonry. The eastern shore appears more promising, but has not been examined. From Flathead lake to Jocko river, following the valley of Flathead river, the route is favorable, generally unwooded, without heavy grading or masonry. East of the mountains a nearly straight line can be obtained from the point where the railway line leaves Milk river to the plains near the base of the mountains, sixteen miles from the divide. This is all dry prairie country, without wood, and with but little water on the surface during the dry season. The six passes next mentioned above debouche into the valley of the Bitter Root. The routes of Lewis and Clark’s Pass and Cadotte’s Pass meet in the valley of the Big Blackfoot river, thir- teen and a half miles west of the dividing ridge, (Cadotte’s Divide.) Those by the two branches of the Little Blackfoot meet and continue for some distance in its valley, which finally connects with Hell Gate fork, in the valley of the Hell Gate river, and the five routes, thus becoming two, follow down these two rivers and enter the Bitter Root valley at Hell Gate. They will be called the Big Blackfoot, Little Blackfoot, and Hell Gate trails; each of the two former being easily reached from the east by two passes over the dividing ridge, and the latter having likewise seve- ral connexions, through the mountains, with the regions to the east. These passes are probably all practicable for a railroad ; but the pass from Wisdom river is ont of direction, and the Hell Gate and southern Little Blackfoot passes are approached with some ROCKY MOUNTAIN PASSES. 99 difficulty, and involve a considerable detour as regards the approach from the north of the Mis- sourl. The northern Little Blackfoot Pass is the one by which Mr. Tinkham crossed the Rocky mount- ains the third time, and in November; is at the source of one of the north forks of Hell Gate river, termed by Lieutenant Mullan Little Biackfoot river, and is remarkably easy. The Indian trail passing here is a well-worn road, and is perfectly practicable for wagons. The dividing ridge is an inconsiderable hill, three hundred to five hundred feet high. Between this pass and the prairies of Marias, Teton, and Sun rivers, the country is somewhat irregular and broken. The barometer gave the summit elevation of the pass at 6,250 feet above the sea, which will probably, in a discussion of the observations, be reduced to less than 6,000 feet. In pursuing this route, Mr. Tinkham kept south of the Missouri until the gate of the mountain was turned; and for information of the approach north of the Missouri, | am indebted to an exploration under Lieutenant Mullan. In a trip to Fort Benton and back to the St. Mary’s valley in March, Lieutenant Mullan brought a wagon through this pass, making the journey from Fort Benton to Cantonment Stevens, a distance of two hundred and ninety-six miles, in twelve travelling days; and there seems scarcely a doubt as to there being an excellent railroad approach to it north of the Missouri, on the route pursued by him. He kept on the high table-land between the Missouri and the Teton, crossed the Sun and the Dearborn rivers a little south of the crossing of the main party in September last; then keeping farther to the south, he crossed the small Prickly Pear creek, and crossing a divide, the one taken by Mr. Tinkham in November, he found the inclination so gradual, that he descended from it not only without locking wheels, but ona run. His course then was by the Little Blackfoot and Hell Gate rivers. A little work is required on this route in cutting timber to get an excellent wagon road. The eastern approach is estimated as practicable with a grade of fifty to sixty feet per mile, the passage of the ridge with a two-mile tunnel, and the western descent with a grade of thirty feet. The valleys of the Little Blackfoot and Hell Gate rivers, from the pass to the junction with the Blackfoot river, are more open and regular than the valley of the latter. Its descent is regular, and, by the barometric observations, is, from the foot of the summit divide to Hell Gate, ninety-five miles, twenty-two and a half feet per mile. The route for the greater portion of the way keeps on the bottom-lands, which are generally unobstructed by timber, sufficient wood always lining the streams for use as fuel, whether for camping or settlement. For lumber, the woods of pines and other evergreens are sufficiently near for use; but the thick woods do not crowd the valley as in some places on Blackfoot river. An open growth of yellow pme occupies the bottom-lands for a few miles in the lower part of the valley, and the cotton-wood growth sometimes stretches across. the bottom. The construction of a railway down this valley will probably make necessary the bridging or turning of the main stream several times. Curves will be easy, and the grades used not gene- rally exceed the natural descent of the valley. The route is indicated on the sketch in dotted lines. It will increase the route forty-four miles, but it may give the means, at the eastern extremity of the Little Blackfoot valley, to make a junction with a road trom Council Bluffs. This connexion is indicated on the map. The mountains shutting down on the Missouri, on both banks, to the gate of the mountains, may pre- sent an earlier junction of the two routes. The thorough examination of this route, and of the Little Blackfoot trails, with which it connects almost immediately west of the divide, and of the Hell Gate Pass, all three of which have been examined by Lieutenant Mullan, and the full description of which will be found in his reports herewith submitted, will become important should a good connexion be found through the Black Hills with the roads moving westward through Towa and Missouri; or, should it be found practicable, through the same hills to make a straighter route from the Bois des Sioux than that north of the Missouri. i The southern of the Little Blackfoot routes is singularly direct, and, in common with the Hell Gate route and northern Little Blackfoot, requires little or no labor to make it practicable for 100 ROCKY MOUNTAIN PASSES. wagons. A wagon can now, it is reported by Lieut. Mullan, be taken through the Hell Gate and the southern Little Blackfoot passes. The two passes of the Big Blackfoot trail are both practicable and have good approaches. The divide of this pass is a narrow and sharp ridge, at whose opposite bases, 24 miles apart, head small tributaries of Beaver creek in the east, and Blackfoot river in the west. Lewis and Clark’s Pass connects the headwaters of Dearborn and Blackfoot rivers, and but a few miles north of Cadotte’s Pass at the sources of other branches of the same two rivers. The summit ridge has here an elevation of 6,323 feet, in a narrow and sharp ridge, at whose opposite bases, 24 miles apart, head small tributaries of Beaver creek in the east, and Blackfoot river in the west. The pass involves a tunnel of two and a haif miles, grades of approach of forty feet to the mile, and grades descending into the valley of not exceeding fifty feet. Cadotte’s Pass requires a tunnel of four and a quarter miles at an elevation of about 5,000 feet above the sea. The grades approaching it from the east will be sixty feet, and those from the west forty feet. This pass connects a tributary of Dearborn river in the east, with a tributary of the Blackfoot river in the west. From the foot of the divide in the east a small tributary falls off with a rapid descent of over one hundred feet to the mile. On either side of the brook are high wooded hills making up into the mass of wooded mountains. The approach to the pass is on the side-hills to the north of the brook. Between the pass and the plains are the tributaries of Beaver creek, rapid mountain streams flowing in deep ravines. The summit is a narrow sharp ridge, about one and a half mile between its opposite bases, and is only partially covered with a small-size growth of trees. The western base is some five hundred feet higher than its opposite, and the least descent, like that of the east, is for a short distance very rapid, favoring the use of a tunnel. Both passes will, on the map, be represented as practicable, but that of Lewis and Clark’s will be adopted in the railroad estimate. For full details in relation to these entrances I will refer you to the report of Lieut. Donelson and the sub-reports of Messrs. Lander and Tinkham. It is proper here to observe that the railroad line was not carried down the entire distance from Lewis and Clark’s Pass to its connexion with the line from the pass in the Blackfoot trail by Mr. Lander; a link of about four and a half miles is wanting. As regards the former, it is estab- lished that it can be approached by a grade of forty feet, that the mountain can be pierced by a tunnel 2.59 miles in length, and that for seven and a half miles the general inclination of the valley is forty to fifty feet per mile. The connexion has not been made, though believed to be practicable at a grade not exceeding fifty feet per mile. Should this be established by subse- quent examinations, it will prove the preferable route. I have shown on the sketch a comparison of the two routes, in which I indicate the portion not examined on the route pursued by Mr. Lander. In the Blackfoot trail the grades will vary from thirty-five to forty-five feet per mile. There is a somewhat narrow gorge, gaditen in Hell Gate, extending some twenty miles, of which thie work will be expensive, but the bratied: will be light, and no sharp curvature. From Hell Gate the road can run in the valley of the Bitter Root river to Clark’s fork, or, by crossing a divide, Clark’s fork can be reached by the valley of the Jocko river. The valley of the Bitter Root will involve several heavy bridge crossings, some sharp curvatures, but no grade exceeding fifty feet, and few approaching forty. Barometrical observations were not made by Mr. Lander in going down the Bitter Root val- ley, but it is believed no difficulty will exist as to grades. The fall of the river from Lieut. Donelson’s camp, on the Bitter Root, of October 5th and 6th, to Horse Plain, is eight hundred feet, and the distance seventy-two miles, and gives, on the supposition of a uniform grade, 11 ,'y feet to the mile. By reference to Dr. Suckley’s report it will be seen that he made the whole distance with boats, meeting no rapids that interfered with the navigation of the river, and his observations in reference to its practicability for a railroad contirm the opinion of Mr. Lander, ROCKY MOUNTAIN PASSES. 101 in whose judgment and experience I place great confidence. The route will be long, in conse- quence of the curves of the river, and will involve curves of the minimum radius, numerous bridge crossings, considerable side-cutting, and high embankments on the prairie portions in consequence of the spring freshets. The rock in side-cuttings can be easily quarried. The greater portion of this route has been personally examined by me, and I am satisfied of its practicability, though at great expense. The divide of the Jocko, though five hundred and sixty feet above Hell Gate, is entirely practicable. To overcome the summit the approach may require a grade of fifty feet, and the descent a grade of sixty feet; both, however, for short distances, with heavy embankments and probably a lofty bridge. Farther down the valley is open and easy, and the grades do not exceed twenty feet. There are no short curvatures. Lieut. Donelson is of opinion that these grades may be reduced to forty-five and forty feet. The distance to Horse Plain from Hell Gate by the two routes is 136 miles by the Jocko, and 143 miles by the Bitter Root, giving seven miles in favor of the former route. It is probable that the greater amount of curvature on the Bitter Root would be at least as serious a difficulty as the greater grades of the Jocko. The cost of the Jocko will probably be some half a million of dollars less than that of the Bitter Root. It is probable that a better connexion than either of these could be made by leaving the Blackfoot trail some distance before entering the defile, passing over a low divide, and pursuing the valley of one or two streams which flow into Clark’s fork. One of these streams is probably a tributary of the Jocko river. Enough is known of the country through an exploration made by Mr. Tinkham, under the direction of Lieutenant Donelson, to make it probable that the grades will not exceed forty feet, and that the curves and expensive embankments, and sustaining walls of the defile ending in Hell Gate, and of the Bitter Root valley, and the high grades of the Jocko route, will thus be avoided. The route is indicated by dotted lines on the sketch, and should be carefully examined in subsequent surveys. By referring to Mr. Tinkham’s route, as shown on the map and explained in his report, it will be seen that he observed all but a few miles of both routes, and that the connexion is almost certain. I will observe, however, that the examinations of this mountain range, whilst they have been exceedingly satisfactory, and have established the practicability of a railroad route through them, are by no means complete. It is not doubted there are other passes in this portion of the Rocky mountain range even better than those explored; they are indicated by the general depression of the mountain range, with the greater frequency of the streams stretching out to meet each other from the opposite slopes of the mountains; and I consider it important that, in future operations, a whole season should be directed to their thorough examination, and that instrumental surveys should be made of the pass found to be the most practicable. In the construction of the road through the Rocky mountains, there will be a scarcity of wood and water in the approach from Milk river, which can be remedied by bringing water in aque- ducts from Grizzly Bear lake, and wood from the Rocky mountains, which furnish an inexhaust- ible supply. CHAPTER Vit. General Geographical Description of the Rocky Mountains Region. Entering the mountains on the eastern side are the tributaries of Marias, Teton, Sun, Dearborn, and Jefferson rivers; the latter, one of the principal forks of the Missouri river. On the west the rivers Clark’s Fork of the Columbia, Blackfoot and Hell Gate forks, together with that branch of Bitter Root river retaining its name, and the tributaries of the Snake river, are the principal streams, whose valleys cut the mountains in transverse ranges, and whose sources are separated from the headwaters of the Missouri tributaries by ridges one to three miles in width, and rising from five hundred to two thousand feet above the running water on the opposite sides of the summit. Excepting the rocky and rugged peaks and ridges of unusual elevation, the mountain siopes are covered with wood, consisting of the different varieties of pine, (generally a species of yellow pine,) firs and spruces, a small proportion of white cedars, and occasionally an intermingling of the white birch. In the bottoms of the streams is found the bitter cotton-wood. The pines, and especially the pines of the valleys, will afford much superior Jumber, and, as found in the bottom- lands of streams, and in the lower and easier mountain slopes, are tall and straight, and have a diameter of about three feet, and a height of from one hundred to one hundred and forty feet. The streams intruding into these wooded regions have in them a considerable amount of open and grassed lands. The valleys of the smaller tributaries of Clark’s fork are generally wooded until within a short distance of Flathead lake; both the Big and Little Blackfoot Fork valleys are wooded, but their bottoms contain many extensive and handsome prairies. Hell Gate fork has a growth of heavy pine and fir on the bordering hills, and an extensive prairie valley of eight hun- dred to one thousand square miles. St. Mary’s river has a handsome, open valley, six or eight miles wide, of even greater extent, and, in connexion with all the streams, is sufficiently supplied with pine and cotton-wood for the purpose of settlement. That portion of the Snake River valley explored was found to be destitute of timber, excepting in some places where the supply was good. ‘The valley is generally very scanty in vegetation, almost the only growth being the wild sage. The valley*for hundreds of miles is covered with beds of volcanic rock. Clark’s fork has an open, wide valley, extending to the Flathead lake, and in the vicinity of the temporary British trading post, about twenty miles south of the lake, is connected with several other smooth and fertile valleys, extending southeasterly into the mountains. All of these bottom-lands have a fertile, although sometimes a gravelly or stony soil, and touch upon forests abundantly supplied with valuable pine lumber. At the head and foot of the Flathead lake are open prairies, with good soil, and possessing the resources for a delightful farming location. The east and west sides of this beautiful lake are hilly and wooded; the eastern side thinly timbered. All these open lands are covered with an abundance of grass, and afford excellent pasturage for horses and cattle throughout the year. Between the headwaters of the Bitter Root and the Snake river the mountains are formed into low ridges, between which intervene valleys rich in grass and watered by mountain streams, and affording fairest grazing lands for the Indians with their large bands of horses. The country is abundantly watered with clear mountain streams, with pebbly beds; and lake and stream abound with fish. GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF ROCKY MOUNTAINS REGION. 103 Trap rock, in its different forms, is the principal geological formation from the divide separating the waters of Snake river from those of the three forks of the Missouri to Fort Hall, and lime- stone, occasionally intermingled with trap, thence northward to the limits of the survey. Granite discovers itself in the southern portion of the survey, and elsewhere. A very superior limestone, suitable as a building-stone and for the manufacture of lime, exists in the mountain range east and north from the British trading post already referred to, and undoubtedly exists elsewhere in large quantities. A belt on the eastern slope of the mountains, including the valleys of the streams, possesses much the same characteristics of soil as already noticed on the western slopes, but has less advantages for lumbering, and has acolder climate. This fertile strip gradually passes into the Grand Prairie country, and, on leaving the vicinity of the mountains, the soil gradually becomes more thin, except in the numerous broad river valleys, as those of the High Wood, the Judith, the Muscle Shell, &c., &c. The pines end with the mountains, and the only trees are found in the growth of cotton-wood lining the streams. Immediately under the mountains is a region capable of profitable tillage, and with unlimited pasturage, delightful in summer, and though colder than the western valleys, is still milder than the climate of the plains still farther to the east. I estimate that in the valleys on the western slopes of the Rocky mountains, and extending no farther west than the Bitter Root range of mountains, there may be some 6,000 square miles of arable land, open grassed lands with good soils, and already prepared for occupation and settlement; and that, in addition to this amount, there are valleys having good soils, and favora- ble for settlement, which will be cleared in the removal of lumber from them. The faint attempts made by the Indians at cultivating the soil have been attended with good success, and fair returns might be expected of all such crops as are adapted to the northern States of our country. The pasturage grounds are unsurpassed. 'The extensive bands of horses owned by the Flathead Indians occupying St. Mary’s village, on Bitter Root river, thrive well winter and summer. One hundred horses belonging to the exploration are wintered in this valley, and up to the 9th of March the grass was fine, but little snow had fallen, and the weather was mild. The oxen and cows owned here by the half-breeds and Indians obtain good feed and are in good condition. Probably 4,000 square miles of tillable land is to be found immediately on the eastern slopes, and the bottoms of the different streams, retaining their fertility for some distance after leaving the mountains, will considerably increase this amount. There is a marked difference of climate between the two sides, and the comparison of the meteorological results of the winter posts estab- lished—one at Fort Benton, on the Missouri, and the other near St. Mary’s village, on opposite sides of the mountains—will be of great interest as determining with some definiteness the extent of this difference. The question of climate will be considered more fully hereafter. To bring out more clearly the character of the mountain region, I will, at the risk of some repetition, quote from Lieutenant Mullan’s report of his exploration to Fort Hall: “Thus we found ourselves at the main camp after an absence of forty-five days, during which time we had crossed the mountains four times, completely turning the eastern portion of the Bitter Root range, by a line of seven hundred miles, experiencing a complete change of climate, and crossing two sections of country, different in soil, formation, natural features, capability, and general character; crossing, therefore, in all their ramifications, the headwaters of the two great rivers, Missouri and Columbia. We had now a fine opportunity to compare the climate and character of the Bitter Root valley with that of the Hell Gate and others in its vicinity. In the latter, snow from four to six inches deep was to be found, while in the former the ground was perfectly free from suow. It seemed as if we had entered an entirely different region and different climate; the Bitter Root valley thus proving that it well merits the name of the valley of perennial spring. The fact of the exceedingly mild winters in this valley has been noticed 104 BITTER ROOT VALLEY. and remarked by every one who has ever been in it during the winter season ; thus affording an excellent rendezvous and recruiting station for the Indians in its vicinity, and of those sojourn- ing in it, as well as all others that might be overtaken by the cold or snow of the mountains. It is the home of the Flathead Indians, where, through the instrumentality and exertions of the Jesuit priests, they have built up a village—not of lodges, but of houses—where they repair every winter ; and with this valley, covered with an abundance of rich and nutritious grass, affording to their large bands of horses grazing and to spare, they live as contentedly and as happily as probably any tribe of Indians either east or west of the Rocky mountains. Its capa- bilities in otner respects, aside from grazing, have already been referred to in the former part of this report, and are of sufficient interest and importance to attract the attention of, and hold out inducements to settlers and others. All that it at present needs is, to have some direct con- nexion with the East or the West, and the advantages that it and the sections in its vicinity possess, will be of sufficient importance to necessarily command attention. The numerous mountain rivulets, tributaries to the Bitter Root river, that run through the valley, afford excellent and abundant mill-sites; and the land bordering these streams is fertile and productive, and has been proved, beyond a cavil or doubt, to be well suited to every branch of agriculture. I have seen oats grown in this valley by Mr. John Owen, that are as heavy and as excellent as any that I have ever seen in the States; and the same gentleman has informed me that he has grown most excellent wheat, and that, from his experience while in the mountains, he hesitates not in saying, that here might agriculture be carried on in its numerous branches, and to the exceeding great interest and gain of those engaged in it. The valley and mountain-slopes are well timbered with an excellent growth of pine, which is equal in every respect to the well known and noted pine of Oregon. The advantages, therefore, possessed by this section, are of great importance, and offer peculiar inducements to the settler. Its valley is not only capable ot grazing immense bands of stock of every kind, but is also capable of supporting a dense popula- tion. The mountain slopes on either side of the valley, and the land along the base of the mount- ains, afford at all seasons, even during the most severe winters, grazing ground in abundance, while the mountains are covered with a beautiful growth of pine. The provisions of nature here, are, therefore, on no small seale, and of no small importance; and let those who have imagined—and some have been so bold as to say it—that there exists only one immense bed of mountains from the headwaters of the Missouri to the Cascade range, turn their attention to this section, and Jet them contemplate its advantages and resources, and ask themselyes, since these things exist, can it be long before public attention shall be attracted and fastened upon this hitherto unknown and neglected region? Can it be that we should have so near our Pacific coast a section of country of hundreds of thousands of acres that will remain forever untilled, unculti- vated, totally neglected? Jt cannot be. But let a connexion, and that the most direct, be made between the main chain of the Rocky mountains and the Pacific—and it can be done—and soon will these advantages necessarily thrust themselves upon public attention, and open to the indus- trious and persevering, avenues to wealth and power. Again, this section connects with another of equal if not superior importance, that of the Coeur d’Alene country, which again connects, directly, by a beautiful section, with the country at and near Wallah-Wallah ; thus showing that from the main chain of the Rocky mountains to the mouth of the Columbia, we possess a rich, fertile, and productive area, that needs but the proper means and measures to be put forth, and manfully employed, to be turned to private and public benefit.” * * * ‘ Looking back upon our route, we saw we had followed Bitter Root river to its head, which we found from its mouth to be ninety-five miles long, flowing through a wide and beautiful valley, whose soil is fertile and productive, well timbered with the pine and cotton-wood, but whose chief characteristic and capability is that of grazing large herds of cattle, and affording excellent-mill sites along the numerous streams flowing from the mountains. ‘The country thence is watered by tributaries to the Missouri and its forks, to the range of mountains separating these waters from those of the GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS REGION. 105 Snake river, or the south branch of Lewis’ fork of the Columbia, and is also fertile, but its char- acteristic feature is the great scarcity of timber for any purpose, the willow and wild sage being used for fuel along the whole route. The geological formation of this section belongs to the tertiary period. The capability of this broad area, however, for grazing, is excellent. It is a great resort at present for all Indians in the mountains, the mountains and valleys affording a great abundance of game, consisting of elk, bear, deer, and antelope, while the numerous rivers and streams abound in fish and beaver. ‘The latter are still caught in large numbers on the head- waters and tributaries of the Missouri, but are not so anxiously sought after as years back, owing to the great depreciation of value in the market east. The whole country is formed of a series of beds of mountainous ranges or ridges, with their intervening valleys, all of which are well defined and marked, the decomposition and washings of the rocks of the mountains giving character to the soil of the valleys, which may be termed, as a general thing, fertile. The geological formations along the Jefferson fork and its principal tributaries are limestone and con- glomerate rock. From the range called the Snake River divide, the whole character of the country is completely changed. Here the geological formation is basaltic and volcanic principally. None of the numerous streams and rivulets flowing from the mountains along the route we travelled emptied into the Snake river, but either sunk into the ground or formed small lakes in the broad valley of Snake river. The ground in most places is formed principally of sand; and where large beds of basalt are not found, the ground is of a dry, absorbing nature, through which the water sinks, at times bursting out again. It was somewhat singular that for sixty miles above Fort Hall, along the main stream of Snake river, we did not cross but one tributary, and that coming in from the south, while none came in from the north; all of the streams, as before men- tioned, either forming lakes or sinking into the ground. This section is also noted for the great scarcity of timber, and the immense plains of wild sage ; which is so abundant, that it merits the name of the sage desert of the mountains. It extends for many miles in length and breadth, form- ing an immense ocean of prairie, whose sameness is only broken by the ‘ Three Buttes’ of the valley, which rise like islands in the sea in this broad and barren area. Its whole character might be included in the word sterility. From the mountains bounding the Snake River valley on the north to Fort Hall, a travelled distance of one hundred and twelve miles, there is but one fertile spot of ground that could be converted to any useful purpose, and this is found at Cantonment Loring, five miles above Fort Hall. Here the soil is of a grayish-blue clay and sand, that might be made use of for agricultural purposes. The grazing here is most excellent. To our return route to the Bitter Root valley, which lay to the east of the Bitter Root mountains from the Snake river, to the ridge separating the waters of Wisdom river, or the Big Hole fork of the Jefferson river, from those of the Hell Gate river, the same general remarks will apply as those describing the country from the head of the Bitter Root river to Fort Hall—a series of mountain ranges, giving beautiful prairie valleys, through which wind streams from the mountain slopes that pour their tribute into the Missouri and its forks. Leaving the ridges referred to, you again enter a different and milder region, through which flow tributaries to the Clark’s fork of the Columbia. Here the soil is a rich loam, timber is abundant, and climate exceedingly mild even during the severest winter. We entered it on the 1st of January, and snow scarcely covering the ground was to be found in the valley. This section connects with the Bitter Root valley. We thence followed down the Hell Gate river, from its head to where it debouches from the mountains five miles above its mouth; which we fourd to be one hundred and twenty miles long, flowing through a fertile, well-timbered valley, from two to five miles wide, bounded on each side by high pine-clad mountains. Game is found in great abundance in these mountains, being principally elk and bear. “A detailed description of each portion of the route having already been given, I only deem it necessary to say that both routes travelled are perfectly practicable for wagons, but the return route is by far the better of the two, though from sixty to eighty miles the longer.” 14f 106 GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS REGION. The general character of the Hell Gate river, its valley, and the adjacent mountain slopes, has been stated. Two routes leading from this river to Fort Benton were examined by Lieutenant Mullan in the month of March, 1854: one along the Little Blackfoot and its south fork, across the mountains to the Missouri, and thence along the bluffs or the banks of that river to Fort Ben- ton; and the other leading up the north fork of the Little Blackfoot and to Fort Benton, north of the Missouri, and on the prairies between that stream and the route pursued by the main party of the exploration in September, 1853. At the forks of the Little Blackfoot, Lieutenant Mullan found the snow in March ten inches deep. The bluffs on the banks of the Missouri, alluded to above, may be considered as extending from a point thirty miles above the falls to near the three forks of that river. ‘They may be described as formidable mountain spurs, extending along the Missouri for about one hundred and fifty miles, and being fifteen miles wide, the principal form- ations consisting of granite, the growth being an abundance of the large species of pine; and these characteristics, together with the fact that it was exceedingly difficult for a pack train to pass through these spurs, indicated that here a route from east to west, either for a rail or wagon road, must be sought at a greater distance from the Missouri. This river flows through these spurs in what is called by Lewis and Clark the ‘‘ Gate of the Mountains.” It has here a rapid current, and is, in places, very deep and narrow. Lieutenant Mullan arrived at Fort Benton on the morn- ing of the 14th, and started on his return to the Bitter Root valley on that of the 17th of March, carrying with him a wagon drawn by four mules. He arrived at the St. Mary’s village on the 30th of March. The principal facts of the geography of the country which were developed by Lieutenant Mullan during this tour are as follows: First, as to the climate, he crossed those mountains at a time when it has been hitherto thought impracticable to travel ; found, in the begin- ning of March, ten inches of snow at the forks of the Little Blackfoot ; no snow east of the mount- ains ; and on his return, in the latter part of March, found no snow at all on the route ; and he had good grass throughout the journey for his animals. Second, as to the facility of communication, he found plenty of wood and water, but an indifferent route even for a pack-train in going to Fort Benton, and in returning he passed over a country which was favorable for a wagon road, and which presented a very fine approach to the mountains for a railroad ; and the divide, where he crossed it, being a low ridge, with an almost imperceptible ascent and descent. All these facts will give this one a favorable place, when considered in competition for a railroad route with the others examined. For detailed information in regard to the general character of the mountain region, I will refer you to the sub-reports of Lieutenant Mullan, G No. 23, G No. 24, G No. 25; of Lieutenant Donelson, F No. 18; of Mr. Tinkham, F No. 19; of Dr. John Evans, F No. 20. C HeASP EE R.eV Eled. General Characteristics of the Great Plain of the Columbia, and Navigability of the Columbia River. In reference to the Cascade mountains, the geography of this whole range has been repre- sented very inaccurately on all existing maps. The region between the Coeur d’Alene and the Cascade mountains may be described as follows : Tt extends with an average of over 200 miles between these two ran ges; and from the Blue mount- ains, at the sources of the John Day river, Umatilla, and the eaarlicrl tributaries of the Wallah- Wallah river, to the Kootenaies mountains, north of Clark’s fork, is marked by the Columbia and its principal tributaries—Clark’s fork or Flathead, and Lewis or Snake river. The general course of the Columbia is north and south, with two large bends—one to the westward from Fort Okinakane, and the other to the eastward, approaching Wallah-Wallah. The Spokane river is the principal remaining tributary on the east, and the Yakima the most important one on the west of the river. ‘The Yakima and its tributaries lead to the only two passes of the Cascades that can well be availed of for wagon roads, and one of which—the Snoqualme Pass—having two routes over the divide, will probably furnish a feasible railroad route. North of the Spokane river, and for a few miles south of it, the country is well timbered and well watered, with many fertile prairies and valleys. The valleys of the Coeur d’Alene and Spokane rivers, the valley extending from the Spokane to Colville, the Coeur d’Alene prairie, and the country generally between the Coeur d’Alene and Pend d’Oreille lakes, are well adapted to grazing and agriculture. The Flat Bow river, whose general course is parallel to that of the Flathead river, or Clark’s fork, makes a re-entering into our territory nearly to 48° 30’, has much good land on its banks, and the country between it and the Flathead lake is generally prairie, the divide being low. One of the routes from the Flathead lake to the Pend d’Oreille lake is by the southern bend of the Flat Bow river. I have denominated the prairie region, between the Coeur d’Alene mountains and the Cas- cades, the Great Plain of the Columbia. The formation of the central and western portions is trap, and it presents great variety of surface and character, from fertile and well-watered valleys to desert sage plains, and from gently undulating waves of vegetation to basaltic columns, deep canons, and the various outcroppings observed in such formations. The Coeur d’Alene mount- ains are a vast mass of limestone, and the valleys on its western slope are rich and inviting. Thus, on the Kooskooskia there is a fine agricultural and grazing region, and in December Mr. Tinkham found the grass perfectly green, peas up, and flowers in blossom. So of the several tributaries flowing into the Coeur d’Alene lake. The St. Joseph’s, the most southern tributary, and which probably furnishes a route across the mountains better than the Coeur d’Alene or either of the Nez Perces trails, and which it is said can be made practicable for wagons at very small expense, has many large and extensive prairies, and the whole region westward to the route pursued by the main party is profusely watered, and well adapted to grazing. Indeed, for the entire region east of the Columbia, the country, with a few exceptions,.as in the vicinity of the Grand Coulée, along certain portions of the Snake and Peluse rivers, may be called a good grazing country, and on no route pursued by voyageurs, by Indians, or by the parties of my exploration, were there long distances between water. The longest distance made was from the 108 CHARACTERISTICS OF THE GREAT PLAIN OF THE COLUMBIA, Tou-chet river to the Snake, twenty-eight miles; yet, by a slight deflection to the east, water can be got at shorter intervals than twenty miles. - Lewis or Snake river, after cutting out a corner of Washington Territory, turns southward into Oregon, leaving, however, a tributary to the eastward—the Little Salmon or Kooskooskia river— which, passing through the Nez Perces country, forks and affords two trails through the Coeur d’Alene mountains, called the northern and southern Nez Perces trails. In the re-entering formed by the Snake, whilst most of the country between the Snake and the Wallah-Wallah, along the Columbia, and for some twenty miles back, has but little arable land, there is good though somewhat scant bunch-grass over nearly the whole surface, and the Wallah-Wallah itself, with its numerous tributaries, affords excellent arable and grazing land. It has already attracted the attention of emigrants, and if the Indian title were ever extinguished, it would be rapidly filled up. The Spokane river, and its principal tributary, the Coeur d’Alene river, and Clark’s fork, furnish the other two trails through the Coeur d’ Alene range. These four trails have already been described, and the route of Clark’s fork indicated as the most practicable one for a railroad route. On this river is the Pend d’Oreille lake, forty-five miles long, and on the Coeur d’Alene tributary of the Spokane river, the Coeur d’Alene lake. Between the Pend d’Oreille lake and the country from the Coeur d’Alene lake to the falls of the Spokane, the country is favorable, the divide low, and feasible routes are afforded for passing from Clark’s fork to the Spokane plain, and across the Columbia. This gives a southwestern direction to the railroad route. Westward, however, of this favorable region of country, a high range of mountains extends across Clark’s fork, and presents obstacles to the construction of the road either towards the mouth of Clark’s fork or Colville, though, as will be seen by reference to the report of Lieutenant Arnold, accompanying that of Lieutenant Donelson, a practicable route probably exists, and could be made use of did the connexion west require it. Westward of the Columbia river, at these points, the country is very rugged, indeed impracticable, and leads to the abandonment of all plans of reaching the passes of the Cascades in this direction. From the Coeur d’Alene mission, some miles above the Coeur d’Alene lake, there is a good wagon trail to Wallah-Wallah. There is also said to be a good wagon trail from the Pend dOreille lake, keeping on its eastern and southern shore, to the Coeur d’Alene mission and to the Coeur d’Alene river, and an excellent railroad route, which is marked on the sketch. As regards the great features of the country west of the mountains in reference to its practi- cability for a railroad, viz: the Bitter Root, Clark’s Fork, and Columbia rivers, I will state that Dr. Suckley, the surgeon and naturalist of the eastern division of the exploration, left St. Mary’s village on the 15th of October, and, proceeding down the Bitter Root and Clark’s fork, reached Columbia barracks on the 6th of December, making the whole distance, except about sixty miles from the Pend d’Oreille mission to Colville, by water. The distance was 1,049 miles, (esti- mated,) the running time 2854 hours, made in fifty-three days, or 3.67 miles per hour. But three portages of magnitude were made—one of thirteen hundred paces on Clark’s Fork river, above the Pend d’Oreille lake, one on the Columbia, at the Dalles, of eight hundred paces, and one at the Cascades, one and a half mile in length. From Horse Plain, at the confluence of Clark’s fork and the Bitter Root river, the whole dis- tance to the mouth of the Columbia readily admits the rafting of lumber, and it is probable that logs can be run to Horse Plain from the upper valley of the Bitter Root in the freshets of spring, and from and above the Flathead lake, on Clark’s fork. ; The forest growth on the banks of the Columbia above the mouth of the Wenatshapam can be transported down to any point of the river where it may be needed for fuel, for buildings, and for constructions. Thus, for all practical purposes of railroad construction, the Columbia through- out its entire length may be considered as bountifully supplied with wood. With reference to the growth along its banks, I will quote from the report of Dr. Suckley: NAVIGATION OF THE COLUMBIA RIVER. 109 «While on the subject of timber, I will briefly allude to its quality and quantity. Along the Bitter Root and Hell Gate rivers, and in the mountains in their vicinity, the red pine and the larch, favorite trees in ship-building, are found in great quantities. Farther down their streams we find, in addition, cypress, cedar, hemlock, spruce, and fir, besides several hard-wood trees. The timber country extends from the main range of the Rocky mountains to a point about 80 miles below Fort Colville. From thence to the Dalles there is no timber. At the Dalles it again appears, and trees of many descriptions, and frequently of enormous size, are found thickly covering the valleys and surrounding hills.” Also, in reference to other subjects, he says: ‘Good building-stone is found along nearly the whole route. There are a few pieces of excellent land along these rivers; their waters are clear and beautiful, and filled with thousands of fish of the different kinds of the salmon family.” By trifling improvements on Clark’s fork and the Columbia several considerable lines of com- munication by steamers could be opened, which would greatly facilitate the construction of the road. The Hudson’s Bay Company’s large freight boats ascend from the lower end of Pend d’Oreille lake to Horse Plain, a distance of one hundred and thirty-five miles, making two port- ages, and descend from above our northern parallel to Vancouver. Steamers drawing from 20 to 24 inches of water can, at low stages, ascend to nine miles above the lake, and still farther at higher stages of water. Between Colville and De Chute’s rivers, on the Columbia, there are but three bad obstacles to navigation for steamers drawing 20 to 30 inches of water, viz: Kettle falls, the Priest’s and Buckland’s rapids. A portage would probably be required at each of these places. None would be required at Ross’s rapids, nor at any other points below the mouth of the Spokane than those designated. One or more may be required between Okinakane and the Kettle falls. 'The Cascades and the Dalles are also bad obstacles. By improvements either in the bed of the river or in the use of locks at these several points on the Columbia and Clark’s fork, and by the substitution of the rail where such improvement is impracticable, it is not doubted that a continuous communication can be established from the mouth of the Columbia to the mouth of the Spokane, and probably to Colville, and from the Pend d’Oreille lake to Horse Plain. Rails will undoubtedly be required at several of the places, and transfers be made from steamer to steamer. The steamers should be of light draught, great power, and will be used chiefly as tow-boats. By a thorough organization, transportation could be effected at a moderate expense, when the amount is sufficient, as in the case of a railroad, to authorize the requisite preliminary outlay. The present high rates of transportation by the Columbia river arise from the monopoly that is exercised and the scarcity of labor. In the construction of the road the river must be availed of to the mouth of the Yakima, and for 135 miles on Clark’s fork, from the Pend d’Oreille lake to Horse Plain. For many interesting details in reference to this river, the country, and forest growth of its banks, the advantages which it affords for manufacturing, and for suggestions in reference to intro- ducing the salmon into the upper country, and thus affording food to the almost starved Indians, by blasting a race-way in the Great Falls twenty-five miles above the mouth of Clark’s fork, I will refer you to Dr. Suckley’s report, a copy of which is given in the appendix. I will also refer you to the reports of Captain McClellan, Lieutenant Donelson, Lieutenant Saxton, and Lieutenant Arnold. The latter officer, after having ascertained the latitude of the mouth of Clark’s fork, which was about 49°, ran a line from Fort Colville, by the Grand Coulée, the mouth of the Spokane, and the mouth of Snake river, to Wallah-Wallah. Lieutenant Arnold says as follows in relation to the Grand Coulée and the vicinity between it and the Columbia: ‘I again descended to the river by a steep and rocky trail, and marched three miles, encamp- ing near the mouth of the coulée. “The trail leaves the river to the north, and passes nearly south. After an ascent of 243 110 GRAND COULEE AND ITS VICINITY. feet we arrived upon a level which commands a fine view of the coulée; it was about ten miles wide at the north entrance, and gradually widened until it passed out of sight; its walls were about 800 feet high, and one solid mass of rock basalt, cemented together by lava or some more fusible rock. The trail had a gradual fall for about six miles, which gives a fair index of the ground included between the walls. “This coulée was twenty miles in length; its walls then passed out of sight, to the west. “The soil was generally sand, except near the walls, where it was made up of disintegrated rock. “The line of march the succeeding day was very rocky for six miles, when we entered the second coulée in size. This coulée has the general appearance of the former. Travelling through this, we again entered the Hudson’s Bay trail, near a high, rocky mound. 'To remove any doubt that may remain on the minds of others in regard to the Grand Coulée, which is laid down on the maps about ninety miles in length, I will state I obtained the best guide in the country. He was born in this country, and has travelled the route for the last fifteen years. I questioned him very closely in regard to the route travelled by Lieutenant Johnson in 1841. The coulée through which he travelled is not known as the Grande Coulée among the old residents. ‘After travelling a few miles, I crossed this stream and passed a fine lake about six miles in length and one in width; it was fringed with alder bushes, and filled with wild fowl, duck, geese, and white swan. Along the eastern bank of this lake I again commanded a view of the range along the western bank of the Columbia, as far north as Pisquouse river. This view, taken in connexion with the information I have received from my guide, leads me to believe that the country bounded on the east by my line of march, north and west by the Columbia, on the sovth by a line passing through the mouth of the Pisquouse river, and the southern extremity of the second coulée previously spoken of, is filled with coulées running in every direction, and ranging from one to fifteen miles in length.” CE) AGB TE Ri), LEX Description of the Cascade Mountains and the Pass of the Columbia River. In reference to the Cascade mountains, the entire geography of the eastern slope, which has been represented very inaccurately on all existing maps, has been developed from the Columbia river to above the forty-ninth parallel, and a’good portion of the western slope to Puget sound. The highest mountains of the Cascade range on the Columbia river are at the Cascades, and at the mouth of the White Salmon and Telickitch rivers, from which points spring the main Cascade ranges, running to the north up to Mount St. Helens and Mount Adams, and centering still farther north in Mount Rainier. Thence one main chain runs off to Mount Baker, having, however, a deep re-entering to the east, through which issues a stream, which, winding round Mount Baker, flows into Bellingham bay, giving the appearance of a pass from the waters of the sound, and another runs off to the northeast. Eastward, and from a range coursing along, and some six or eight miles south of, the Yakima, to above our northern parallel, the Cascades, with their innumerable spurs, extend nearly to the Columbia river, causing nearly the whole country to be mountainous, or high, broken table- land. The streams are rapid, have their sources in lakes, frequently of large size, and are not even adapted to the rafiing of lumber. North of the Columbia river a range of hills extends nearly parallel to it, at some eight miles distance, and heavily wooded. From these hills flow many small streams to the Columbia, and the grazing is excellent over this intermediate space from Wallah-Wallah to the Dalles. Much of this is good farming land. The streams on the western slope flow in nearly a northern direction, and the mountain spurs between them, in many cases, extend to near the shores of the sound. Reserving to a subsequent oceasion some account of the sound, and the country tributary to it, I will now consider the passes of the Cascades practicable for a railroad. There are two practicable passes, both having good connexions with the line of Clark’s fork: that by the Columbia itself to the Cowlitz river, a stream which rises in Mount St. Helens, flows in nearly a southerly direction, and empties into the Columbia river about forty-five miles below Vancouver, and by the Cowlitz river to the sound, and that by the main Yakima and Snoqualme rivers. The pass of the Columbia river, examined personally by myself, as well as by Captain McClellan and Mr. Lander, is remarkably favorable in its grades, which rarely exceed ten feet; in the ease with which debris from the ledges can be worked, to form the embankments required to guard against freshets; and the great facility with which wood and stone, both of good quality, can be transported down the Columbia for purposes of construction. The only serious obstacle is Cape Horn mountain, which, to avoid sharp curvature, may require a tunnel seven hundred feet in length, though it is hardly probable that the road may be run over a gap in rear of it without tunnelling, heavy work, or steep grades. The lateness of the season prevented the examination. Vancouver would furnish an admirable depot, and also afford a crossing in its vicinity to the valley of the Willamette. The grades down the Columbia to near the mouth of the Cowlitz, and thence to Olympia, Steilacoom, or Seattle, on the sound, will be small; the work throughout light; and abundant materials of all kinds will be found for road-beds and super- structure. 112 CASCADE MOUNTAINS AND PASS OF COLUMBIA RIVER. The crossing of the Columbia at the Snake river presents no special difficulties. From the Dalles to Vancouver, there will be expensive rock-cutting. All the streams can be easily bridged. This is not the place to discuss whether the road should keep north or south of the Columbia river the whole distance. The crossing at Vancouver is undoubtedly objectionable, as interfering with navigation. There is an excellent crossing at the Cascades, at the Dalles, and at several points thence to Wallah-Wallah. The final location cannot be properly made till the practicable connexions are made with the Salt lake, the Willamette valley, and California, to all which routes the line down the Columbia, either in whole or in part, will be the main trunk. It is possible a better deflection to the valley of the Columbia may be found a little more eastward of the present route, close under the base of the Coeur d’Alene mountains, to a crossing of the Snake between the Peluse and the Kooskooskia, and thence to the valley of the Wallah-Wallah river, and thus the route made to lend itself to either bank of the river and its several connexions. In the vicinity of Vancouver, the crossing, instead of being by a bridge, miglit be effected by suitable ferry-boats. It is sufficient for my present purpose that there is a favorable route down the Columbia, and that a connexion can be made with the valley of the Willamette. In view of the agricultural, manufacturing, and commercial advantages of Oregon, the navi- gability of the Columbia to Vancouver and Portland for sea-going vessels and steamers, and the rich character of much of the adjoining country in the Territory of Washington, and looking also to a connexion with California, I am of opinion that a line down the Columbia, thus found eminently practicable by the exploration, must enter into every plan of railroad connexion from the St. Lawrence basin, by the northern route, to the Pacific. The question simply is, whether the unrivalled commercial advantages of that sound, its being six hundred miles nearer to Asia, making it the natural port of freights and passengers to our entire North and to Europe, are such as will authorize the construction of a road through the Snoqualme Pass, even at the expense of much difficult work and tunnelling, in order to save the increased distance of one hundred and fifty to one hundred and sixty miles of the line of the Cowlitz. For detailed information in reference to the geographical description of the Cascades, I will respectfully refer you to the reports of Captain George B. McClellan and Lieutenant J. K. Duncan, C No.7 and C No. 8; and of the line of the Lower Columbia, to the same reports and that of Mr. F. W. Lander, B No. 6. The report of Dr. Cooper, C No. 9, will give some interesting facts in relation to the natural history. CHAPTER X. Resources and Geographical Importance of Puget Sound, and its Relations to the Trade of Asia. Puget sound needs no special description in this report. It has 1,500 miles of shore-line, and many capacious harbors and roadsteads, accessible, commodious, and entirely land-locked. It is particularly adapted to steam navigation. Steilacoom, Seattle, and Bellingham bay, would be good termini for the railroad; and in relation simply to the route of the Columbia and the Cowlitz, Port Discovery, on the Straits de Fuca; but Seattle combines the greatest number of advantages. As rapidly as the tonnage and draught of vessels have increased in a few years, rising from ten or fifteen hundred to five or six thousand tons, it is hardly probable they will ever exceed the capacity of this harbor, which at low water would admit vessels of fifty feet draught. The principal resources of the sound are its lumber, its coal, its salmon, and the cod on the banks of the coast, far to the north and south of the entrances to the straits. The coal-beds extend from Bellingham bay to the Cowlitz river, and when subjected to analysis have been pronounced of excellent quality. Such was the opinion of the late Prof. Walter Johnson; and Lieut. Trowbridge, corps of engineers, has, afier examination, expressed a favorable opinion of its quality. Iregret that I cannot give in the appendix a copy of his letter to the Bellingham Bay Coal Company, which I left at Olympia. I learn, in a recent letter from Olympia, that in June very excellent coal was obtained from the mines in Bellingham bay. There is also much good land between the Cascades and the ocean. Although, at some points, spurs from the mountains extend nearly to the sound, yet generally there is an interval of prairie or rolling land some thirty or forty miles broad; the river-bottoms generally rich, with an undergrowth of vine, maple and alder. In the vicinity of, and north of Bellingham bay, there are extensive prairies, and the river Nook-sahk, navigable for steamers at least sixty miles, and which, having its source back of Mount Baker, passes under its southern and western base, and finally enters the sound in the northern part of the bay, is represented to have much excellent land on its banks. At the delta of the Sam-ish and Sin-a-ah-mish, and on the D’ Wam- ish and its several tributaries on the Puy-gal-lut, there is much excellent land. The prairies on the southern shore of the Sami are some of them gravelly, particularly those in the vicinity of Nisqually; but, as a general rule, the land is good and yields fair returns to labor. ‘The quality of the land improves on approaching the mountain slopes, and an extensive prairie near the head of the Cowlitz, and at the base of Mount St. Helens, is one of the best tracts of land in the Territory. The region generally between the Columbia river and the sound, and the Cascades and the Pacific ocean, is well watered. The river bottoms having a growth of pine, maple, alder, and curl-maple, are generally rich, and there is much productive prairie, interspersed with groves of timber, and little or none of the country can be called mountainous. There is a good country along the Willopah and the Chihalis rivers, and from the Chihalis to the head of Hood’s canal. The islands of the sound, moreover, are quite extensive, and Whitby’s island, the largest of them all, and in the very centre of the sound, is the garden of the Territory. West of the sound the country is comparatively unknown. It is reported to have great mineral wealth and much excellent Jand. There will be a great thoroughfare of business and travel from the sound to 15 f 114 PUGET SOUND, AND ITS RELATION TO THE TRADE OF ASIA. the Columbia river, and the interests of the two Territories of Oregon and Washington will soon require a railroad. A question of the highest importance in connexion with the proposed railroad, is the effect which it will have in securing for this country the control of the Asiatic trade. The magnitude of the subject, the want of reliable statistics, and the difficulty in reasoning from the past when political revolutions, mechanical inventions, and new routes of travel are producing such great changes in the relations of commerce, will preclude me from considering the subject in detail. A few general considerations will be sufficient to show the importance of the proposed road as an avenue for the trade of Asia. The position of this country, standing midway between the great centres of Asiatic and European population, indicates its future commercial greatness. Facing our Pacific possessions, and separated from them by the smooth Pacific, is a vast region covering an area of over twelve millions of square miles, and having a population of over six hundred millions, the outlets of whose commerce and productions are nearer not only to our Pacific, but our Atlantic cities, than to the ports of any European nation; Calcutta, Singapore, Manilla, Canton, and Shanghai being nearer to New York, New Orleans and Charleston, by lines of communication entirely feasible, than to England. The trade of this vast region, mcluding China, Japan, and the Asiatic Archipelago, has been the great commercial prize in ancient and modern times. Persia, Assyria, Carthage, and Rome, each swayed the world, as it controlled the commerce of the East. Venice, Genoa, Lisbon, Amsterdam, and London, each in its turn attained commercial supremacy, as it became the dispenser of Eastern luxuries to the Western world. The value of the import and export trade of the Asiatic region, which can be made tributary to our commerce, cannot be readily deter- mined; but that of China has been estimated at one hundred and twenty-five millions of dollars per annum, the greater part of which has been carried on by Great Britain; and the annual value of the export and import trade of Great Britain with the Asiatic Archipelago and Pacific islands is estimated at seventy-five millions of dollars. An important fact bearing upon the feasibility of diverting the trade of Asia from the old chan- nels, is the comparative nearness of our Pacific possessions to the city of Shanghai, which is most favorably situated to become the future emporium of China, and the outlet of trade of over three hundred millions of people, who are just beginning to break away from that exclusive policy which has, for so many centuries, shut them out from the rest of the world. The con- centration of British capital at Canton, and its greater nearness to England, has made the latter city the centre of the foreign trade with China. But the silk and tea producing districts lie much nearer to Shanghai, while this city, situated upon a river which is connected with the Yangtze Kiang, the great artery of China, has water communication with one third of the empire. Shanghai, which may be called the New Orleans of China, is distant only 5,000 miles from Puget sound, and the route passes by Japan, with its fifty millions of inhabitants—Jeddo being only 3,660 miles distant from Puget sound. Nature has clearly indicated the northern pathway for the commerce from the future mart of Asiatic trade to this country and Europe. ‘The great lakes carry us water-borne half-way across the continent. The proposed road communicates ona direct line with the northern lake trade— the most wonderful internal commerce the world has ever known—a traffic which is stated to have amounted in 1851 to $326,000,000, employing 74,000 tons of steam and 138,000 tons of sail- vessels. It intersects the Mississippi river, and thus communicates with the southern States. It is on the line of the great wheat-producing region of America; and, above all, it is on the direct line of the shortest distance between the centres of European and Asiatic population. The opening of this avenue is already eagerly sought by our own people to facilitate the exchange of their products with those of Asia. From New York to Shanghai, by way of Cape Horn and Lima, the sailing distance is 21,000 miles. By way of the Cape of Good Hope, the PUGET SOUND, AND ITS RELATION TO THE TRADE OF ASIA. 115 distance is . From New York to Shanghai, by way of the proposed railroad and Puget sound, the distance will be 7,800 to 8,000 miles—a saving over the sailing routes either of Cape Horn or the Cape of Good Hope, which must carry a great part of the Asiatic trade with our Atlantic cities across the continent. But the Atlantic cities cannot be considered the true points of departure for the Asiatic trade. There must be points in the great interior between the Rocky mountains and the Alleghanies. From St. Paul, on the Mississippi river, to Shanghai, the distance will be less than 7,000 miles; and the inhabitants of the great interior, where the mass of our population will hereafter be situated in their consumption of Asiatic teas, silks and spices, will save the transportation from the seaboard. In predicting the future course of Asiatic trade, it is presumed that lines of steamships will be established between Shanghai and our Pacific possessions. The coal at Puget sound, lying on the route from San Francisco to Shanghai, will furnish the necessary combustible. It is also presumed that the difficulty of carrying freight, together with the quantity of coal requisite for so long a voyage, will be greatly overcome by the increased size of vessels—steamships of even 10,000 tons burden being now in the course of construction—and also by mechanical inventions and improvements in motive power, which will diminish the quantity of fuel required. It may be safely assumed that, by the time the proposed road is completed, the average time on the Pacific, so much more favorable for steam voyages than the Atlantic, will exceed fifteen miles per hour. When an uninterrupted line of steam communication is established, a portion of the European trade, and nearly all the travel to Asia, must take its course across our continent, and on the northern road, as the shortest route. The present sailing distance from Liverpool to Shanghai is 14,400 miles. By way of Puget sound the distance will be 10,800 miles; a difference equal to a voyage across the Atlantic. From England to Jeddo, in Japan, the sailing distance is 15,660 miles. By way of Puget sound the distance will be 9,500 miles. The course of travel is determined by the shortest time. The saving of time will carry Euro- pean travel and mails even as far as Calcutta, and much more to places farther east and nearer our Pacific possessions, by the proposed route. The average time required to carry the mails from Calcutta to England, on the overland route, is forty-eight days; from Shanghai to England, sixty days. The distance from Calcutta to Puget sound is 8,450 miles, which dis- tance would be performed by steam-vessels, at fifteen miles an hour, in twenty-three days; the 2,800 miles from Puget sound to New York will be run over by passenger trains, moving at thirty miles an hour, in four days; from New York to England, the average time is twelve days ; making, in all, thirty-nine days, and a saving in time of nine days from England to Calcutta, and of thirty-three days in the time from New York to Calcutta by way of England. The travel from Shanghai to New York would be performed in eighteen days; from Shanghai to England in thirty days; being a saving of fifty-four days from New York, and thirty days from England. It may be more doubtful if merchandise will bear the heavy expense of transportation by rail and steam-vessels. It would be hardly safe at present to fix the limits of economical transporta- tion of merchandise, as other elements than mere cost are to be considered. The saving of time is an important element, as is evinced by the high freights paid to clipper-ships, and the higher rates paid for transportation by rail on lines parallel to canals and rivers. Notwithstanding an increased cost of transportation, all merchandise which is deteriorated by exposure to a tropical climate will take the northern route across the continent. The British sailing route, and our own, cross the equator twice. ‘Teas, as well as other animal and vegetable substances designed for human sustenance, are heated and greatly injured by exposure to a continued high temperature. It is believed that the delicate flavor of tea transported overland from China to St. Petersburg will be preserved in that article trausported by sea, when the present tropical exposure is avoided. A short route to China is of the utmost importance to this country to facilitate the exportation 116 PUGET SOUND, AND ITS RELATION TO THE TRADE OF ASIA. of goods manufactured from the great American staple. Great Britain has penetrated Asia, and commanded its valuable trade almost wholly by her exports of cotton goods. Hitherto we have had no advantage of distance in our competition for this trade. Her advantages for manu- facturing are fast diminishing. The prices of labor in that country are increasing. Our own manufacturers of coarse cottons have attained such skill and economy that they command our own markets, and are only restrained in the productions of their enterprise by a want of outlets for their fabrics. Hundreds of millions of people in China and the Asiatic Archipelago are to be supplied with cotton clothing; and the great superiority of the American staple over the India cotton will always create a demand for our fabrics. The English and American manu- facturers take their raw material from the same starting point—New Orleans. The former has to transport this material 4,500 miles, to Liverpool, to be manufactured, and the products of the manufacture 14,400 miles, to Shanghai; making, in all, a distance of 18,900 miles. The American manufacturer transports the raw material to Boston, a distance of 1,800 miles. When the proposed railroad is completed, he will have to transport his cotton, from the common starting point, only 9,800 miles to the common market, Shanghai. The American will have in his favor 8,600 miles, and a still greater advantage when manufactures are established at the South. There can be no reasonable doubt that, with the advantages of rapidity of transit, and shortness of distance, all our cotton fabrics of a value exceeding ————-——— dollars per ton will be transported by rail to Puget sound. It has been estimated that the supply necessary for these new markets will require an amount of cotton equal to the present “entire” crop of upland cotton of the United States. When it is remembered that the United States manufactures only one-third of the entire crop, the rest being exported, and that the capital invested in our own cotton manufactures is $80,000,000, and the annual value of the products of these manufactories is $70,000,000, some conception may be formed of the -value of an avenue to Asiatic trade which opens a new outlet for these products. The manufacturing skill and enterprise of the North, and the resources of the South, are ade- quate to meet the future demands of an unparalleled trade. It has been said by one of the most intelligent statistical writers of the South, that in process of time the annual product of cotton in the United States can be augmented to six times its present yield, and it will not be more aston- ishing than its augmentation since 1790; and he continues: ‘* When the cultivation becomes more extended, and to all sections of the ‘cotton zone,’ covering more than eight degrees of latitude, and more than eighteen degrees of longitude, the probability is lessened of any untoward season or other casualty affecting the aggregate crop injuriously, and consequently the average supply and the prices will be more regular and uniform.” ChHEAYR IVER. “Xe Railroad Practicability of the Snoqualme Pass. By referring to the lucid and able reports of Captain McClellan, in charge of the western division, and of Mr. Tinkham, one of the civil engineers of the exploration, the following facts will be found established. The pass is about 3,500 feet above the sea. The Yakima valley, leadimg to it, is broad and open, affording an excellent railroad approach. The pass must be overcome by tunnels or inclined planes, or a continuation of both. There are two places for a tunnel: First, one from the level of Lake Willailootzas, about 3,000 feet above the sound, of 4,000 yards (2.27 miles) in length. Second, by a tunnel from the level of Lake Kitchelus, 2,388 feet above Vancouver, 11,840 yards (5.73 miles) in length. The first tunnel has an eastern approach of 183 miles, with a grade of 48.4 feet per mile. The second tunnel has an eastern approach of 183 miles, with a grade of 15.2 feet per mile ; both on the supposition of uniform grades. Captain McClellan’s survey and barometric profile only extended some three miles beyond the divide; and for the remainder of the route, of which the report of Captain McClellan gives the general features, I am particularly indebted to the winter trip of Mr. Tinkham for the information we possess as to grades and practical difficulties. From the pass to the Snoqualme falls the distance is forty-five miles. On the supposition of uniform grades, the descent is 59.8 feet per mile for the short tunnel, and 48.4 for the long one. Uniform grades in such country never occur in practice. It is the opinion of Mr. Tinkham that the most difficult grade of the short tunnel will be eighty feet to the mile, and for the long tunnel sixty feet, and these grades only for short distances; and in his conclusion I place great confidence, from the ability and judgment he has shown in the discharge of his duties throughout the exploration. If the short tunnel should involve but eighty-feet grades, and only for some fifteen miles, it would be better to have additional locomotive power for this small portion of the route, than to be at the expense, in money and time, of the long tunnel. Should the use of the short tunnel involve inclined planes and a large expenditure of stationary power, it will be a question simply of cost, as between it and the long tunnel, as to which shall be adopted. The worst aspect of the case is the practicability of the route only by using the long tunnel, and to this single point I shall con- fine my remarks. Before entering upon this subject, it may be well to advert to the foot trail referred to in both the reports of Captain McClellan and Mr. Tinkham. It connects Lake Kitchelus with a tributary of the Snoqualme river, and may furnish, though passing over a more difficult and impracticable country, a shorter line to pierce the mountain. In Mr. Tinkham’s winter examination, the Indians who accompanied him reported that pass to be better, and more free from snow, than the pass examined. It is more obstructed by fallen timber, and cannot be used with horses. There has already been a large experience in tunnels, both in Europe and this country. The average cost of tunnels in England has been about £35 per lineal yard. Shafts are sunk from four to six hundred feet. In this country the tunnels on the Baltimore and Ohio railroad cost $260 per lineal yard. A tunnel is being constructed in Massachusetts, under the Hoosack mountains, 24,100 feet long, passing under a country ranging from 300 to 1,700 feet above the line of the tunnel, and the three shafts varying from 300 to 800 fect in depth.” A tunnel is now being built in Hungary, ten miles long; and one under the Alps, devised by Mr. Maus, and 118 RAILROAD PRACTICABILITY OF SNOQUALME PASS. approved by Stevenson, the great English engineer, seven and two-thirds miles in length, without shafis, the mountain rising 5,000 feet above the line of the tunnel. Mr. Maus proposes to use a machine, and work it by water-power. 'The grade will be 105 feet to the mile. Shafts can be sunk in rock about three feet per day. A tunnel without a machine can be pushed three feet from each face per twenty-four hours; and with a machine like that proposed for the Hoosack tunnel, six feet per twenty-four hours; and like that proposed by Mr. Maus, 11,5 feet per twenty-four hours. The proposed tunnel under the Snoqualme Pass will be 11,845 yards in length; in width sufficient for a double track, varying from 22 to 24 feet in the extreme ; top semicircular, and extreme height 204 feet. Five shafis will be required, 333, 6044, 800, 800, and 407 feet, respect- ively, in depth, and 1,941, 3,882, 5,828, 8,291, and 10,068 yards distant, respectively, from the eastern heading. Allowing one year for locating the tunnel, and one year additional for sinking shafts, it is estimated that it will be completed in four years without the use of a machine, and that its cost will be $130 per lineal foot in round numbers, or $420 per lineal yard. ‘otal cost of the tunnel is estimated in round numbers at $5,000,000. The line to Seattle by the Snoqualme Pass will cost some seven millions less than the line to the same point by the Columbia river. The Columbia route from Seattle to the point of junction is estimated to rise seven hundred feet, and to fall three hundred. The Snoqualme route is estimated to rise in the aggregate for the long tunnel 2,500 feet, and to fall 2,100. Using the formula of Latrobe and Knight, engineers of the Baltimore and Ohio RXF 52.8 river will be found by adding 19 miles to the measured distance of 395 miles, and that by the line of the Snoqualme Pass by adding 87 miles to the distance of 240 miles—both from the point where the two roads fork. Thus the equated distance of the two routes will be 414 and 327 miles, a difference of 87 miles in favor of the Snoqualme route. With the use of the short tunnel, the difference will be 64 miles. Thus the time gained for passenger trains moving on level grades 30 miles an hour, will be three hours in favor of the Snoqualme route, and six hours for freight trains moving 15 miles an hour. With the short tunnel the gain will be two hours for passenger trains and four hours for freight trains. It is not believed that any difficulties will occur from snow which cannot easily be guarded against. ‘The climate is mild, the temperature about the same with San Francisco; the harbors are not obstructed by ice, and at the summit level of the route of the Snoqualme Pass the climate is believed to be about the same with that of the summit level of the Portland and Montreal rail- road, In January of this year the snow in the pass was only six or seven feet deep for as many miles. For some forty additional miles the snow fell away in depth to less than two feet; it was in layers, very light, and would have offered no obstruction to the passage of cars. In the meteorological portion of the report, the subject will be discussed more at length. The deepest snow will be over the tunnel, and it will be easy to devise a suitable covering for the few miles from the entrance of the tunnel, which in some seasons may be obstructed. The general characteristics of the route of the Snoqualme Pass may be summed up as follows: The approach to this pass is by the valley of the Yakima, and the Columbia may be crossed anywhere within fifteen miles above the junction of these two rivers. The approaches to the Columbia are perfectly good, and its width about four hundred yards. No material for building exists immediately at hand. Excellent yellow pine grows abundantly on the Yakima one hundred miles from its mouth, and can be floated down at high water with but little difficulty. Good granite was found by Captain McClellan on the Columbia, about one hundred and forty miles above the mouth of the Yakima ; and Dr. Suckley reports excellent stone for building purposes on the whole line of the Columbia. railroad : (Rt being the rise and F the fall,) the equated distance of the line by the Columbia RAILROAD PRACTICABILITY OF SNOQUALME PASS. 119 From the crossing of the Columbia to the commencement of the pine timber, a distance of ninety-six miles, the general character of the valley is wide, open, and: terraced—the ground of sand, gravel, or loose stones ; but little clay or vegetable mould; curves easy, long stretches of straight road, perfectly practicable. In this distance there are five points where the hills come close to the river, making at most ten miles of side-cutting necessary. This cutting is generally in earth, loose stone or trap rock, easily broken into blocks. In addition to these points, the last eight miles of the ninety-six will be principally side-cutting in earth, gravel and sand, the work light, and no very high side-slopes. In the first eighty miles from the Columbia the grade will be twelve and a half feet to the mile; in the last sixteen miles it will be eight and a half fect to the mile. By keeping thus far the north bank of the Yakima, the only bridges of any consequence required will be two over streams each about seventy-five feet in width. At some place in this vicinity it would be advisable to cross to the south bank of the Yakima, which is here about forty yards wide, good crossing easily found, plenty of timber on the spot, and stone for masonry within twenty-five miles by water. The road now keeps to the valley twenty-one miles farther on; four miles beyond Ketetas, passing through an open pine woods; soil light, sometimes gravelly ; about two miles side-cutting; grade eight feet to the mile. If the short tunnel be used, the road must at this point leave the valley, take a side location on the northern slope of the mountain bordering the valley on the south, and ascend eight hundred and ninety-five feet in eighteen and a half miles, giving a grade of 48.4 feet per mile in fifty per vent. rock. The plateau of Willailootzas, one mile long, will be entered by a curve with a radius of about 2,000 feet, the road passing along the north bank of the lake, with side location, in eighty per cent. trap rock, easily worked. This lake should be partially drained ; its shores are steep and of broken stone. There will be some little difficulty in preparing a proper depot for the work- men, tools, &c., at the entrance of the tunnel. The tunnel, about 4,000 yards long, will pass through solid rock (silicious conglomerate,) and will debouche on the western slope, at an eleva- tion of about 3,000 feet above the sound at Seattle. The road must now have a side location on the mountain spur bordering the valley of the Nook-noo, in about seventy per cent. rock, generally conglomerate ; follow this valley twenty-nine and a half miles, then take the summit and northern slope of the low ridge separating Lake Mowee from the valley of the Snoqualme, and from that taking a spur running from the Nook-noo falls to those of the Snoqualme, reach the latter falls a distance of forty-five miles from the tunnel ; all in side-cutting, with rocks as above. The grade will be 59.8 feet per mile. With reference to this stretch of forty-five miles, and that of eighteen and a half miles on the eastern slope, leading to the tunnel, it is to be observed that the grades given above are on the supposition that a continuous grade can be obtained ; ‘but it must be expected that the grade will necessarily be broken, and be higher than the estimate in many places. From the Snoqualme falls to Seattle is a distance of about thirty miles, of which the first ten must have a grade of 20 feet per mile, at most, and the remainder, twenty, pass over quite a level country. Tf, instead of a tunnel from the level of Lake Willailootzas, we consider a tunnel from the level of Lake Kitchelus, the case will be as follows: Commencing at the point eighteen and a half miles east of Willailootzas, there will be eighteen and a half miles with a grade of 15.2 feet per mile, and but little side-cutting, through a thickly timbered country as far as Kitchelus. The divide must now be pierced by a tunnel 11,840 yards long, of a character similar to the one considered above. The grade to the Snoqualme falls will be 46.3 feet per mile; all other circumstances unchanged. The greatest grades will probably be 80 feet to the mile in the case of the short tunnel, and 60 feet in the case of the long tunnel, and both for short distances. A line along the Columbia river to the sound will be necessary, even with lines both down the Columbia river and through the Snoqualme Pass. 120 RAILROAD PRACTICABILITY OF SNOQUALME TASS. Before locating the road, an instrumental survey of the two routes will be indispensable. It is believed that the most unfavorable view is given in the report of the route of the Snoqualme Pass. The estimates will be given for both routes; and in the estimate for the Snoqualme Pass route, a branch to the Columbia will be included. CHAPTER XII. Resumé of the Line from the Base of the Mountains to Puget Sound. As before observed, the immense prairies, the marked characteristics of the country west of the Mississippi, stretch to the very base of the Rocky mountains, and to this limit a railroad will have no greater obstacles to overcome than the passage of prairie elevations, and the crossing of a few small rivers. It is a singular truth, that while the whole mountain district has a clear breadth by a direct line of 200 miles, the eastern prairies north of the Missouri make up to within fifteen or twenty miles of the summit ridge; and on leaving the prairies and tracing up the several small streams which head in the mountains on the eastern side, one finds himself not only thus suddenly thrown into the midst of the mountains, but that he has hardly crossed their boundary before he has commenced their descent towards the Pacific. The plains at the entrance to the mountain passes have an elevation of about 4,700 feet above the sea, or are about six hundred feet lower than the tunnel proposed for passing the dividing ridge, and the grade line connecting the two is along the hill-sides at the sources of the tribu- taries of Beaver creek. The country at this short interval is a good deal broken; the culvert crossings of the several small brooks will be expensive, and the excavations will frequently be rock. It is estimated that a grade of forty feet can be obtained from the plains to the tunnel. The Rocky mountain divide, at Lewis and Clark’s Pass, is a narrow, sharp ridge, whose extreme elevation is 6,323 feet above the sea, and whose opposite bases, over 1,000 feet below the summit, are two and a quarter miles apart. The passage of this summit is by a tunnel through rock two and a quarter miles long, and at an elevation of 5,300 feet above the sea. The western descent is made with a forty to fifty feet grade. In common with Cadotte’s Pass, Lewis and Clark’s Pass opens into Blackfoot river, and the routes crossing the mountains by the two passes unite soon after, gaining the river valley on the west side. Blackfoot river has a generally narrow and wooded valley, the enclosing wooded hills some- times encroaching upon the river, and sometimes widening and discovering easy-sloping, small, and fertile prairies. The stream itself, from a mountain brook at the summit, ninety-three miles lower down, in the vicinity of Hell Gate, has a width of two hundred feet, and a depth of three feet, flowing over a clear rocky bed. Its bottom is wooded, and the bitter cotton-wood is found mingled with the pines and the different evergreens which make up the exclusive growth of the higher grounds. The valley has an average descent of twenty-two fect per mile. The bottom-lands of the valley of Jocko river, along whose edge the railroad line is marked, are not generally wooded. The valley from the summit drops down very suddenly towards Clark’s fork, facing the line to the wooded hills skirting the eastern side of the valley, and great care will be necessary, in locating the line, to obtain suitable grades. The descent on the eastern side of the valley, which appears most promising, involves the crossing of the main branch of Jocko river at a considerable elevation. A descent on the western side would avoid this, and may be practicable. Clark’s fork, where the line first enters its valley, is from one hundred and fifty to two hundred yards wide—a clear, rapid river, and is rarely fordable. With the exception of the occasional small prairies, serving as camping grounds, and noted on the maps, its valley throughout is heavily timbered, mainly with the pine; cedars of great size are met with in some parts of the 167 122 LINE FROM BASE OF THE MOUNTAINS TO PUGET SOUND. valley. At several points on the route the rocky hill-sides crowd upon the river, and all deep cutting will probably expose the rock, apparently mostly species of limestone or trap; but the valley is wider than the valley of Blackfoot river, or of Bitter Root river soon after its junction with the latter stream, and has a general width of two or three miles. The descent of the vailey has an average rate of eleven feet per mile. The greatest gradients of the railroad would not exceed fifteen or twenty feet per mile. After passing from the valley of the Jocko to that of the Flathead, it would follow the hills on the left of that stream toa point some miles above its junction with the Bitter Root; then crossing the former, it would follow the right bank of Clark’s fork as far as Big Rock. The course then may either be on the right bank the whole distance to the lower extremity of Pend d’Oreille lake, or it may cross to the left bank at Big Rock, and recross to the right bank at the Cabinet mountain; or, continuing on the right bank to the Cabinet, some twenty miles above Lake Pend d’Oreille, where the river is compressed between walls of solid rock about one hundred feet high, and where the river could readily be spanned by a single arch, it could then cross the river and continue down on its left bank. Afier reaching the Pend d’Oreille lake it could readily skirt the eastern and southern shore, until it reached a southern prolongation of the lake, which extends about twenty-five miles in the direction of the Coeur d’Alene mission, and from that fact is called the Coeur d’Alene bay. From the upper end of this bay to the Coeur d’Alene lake there is said to be a very gentle rise, and a divide so low that it might readily be passed over by a traveller without notice. From the Coeur d’Alene lake to the valley of the Spokane there is a good natural, almost level grade. The Cabinet mountain might require tunnelling for three hundred yards, fifty per cent. rock, basalt trap; though, by a careful adjustment of the line of approach, tunnelling may be dispensed with without involving a grade greater than forty feet. Both Clark’s fork and the Pend d’Oreille lake are subject to freshets, fifteen feet being about the difference of level between high and low water marks, which would make it necessary that the road should keep the sides of the hill, or that high embankments should be used. The summit separating Clark’s fork and Spokane river, and the summit of the Great Spokane plain, are both about eight hundred feet above the level at which these two rivers are crossed. The opportunities afforded for side-hill location prevent the use of objectionable grades. The mountain region ends near the crossing of Spokane river. The earth excavation and embankment will, throughout this section, be large in amount, and expensive. The very best quality of material for a durable road-bed is met with all along the line. The hill-sides discover the disintegrated fragments of the different rocks, and the bottom lands of the rivers afford abundance of gravel for a road passing through them. With the general character of the excavation, and with the opportunities afforded for good ballasting, the road-bed of this section may be of a superior quality. In all the mountain valleys, the deep side-hill cuttings will frequently expose the rock, and the bulk of the rock excavation in the entire railroad route will be in this section. ‘The tunnel at the Rocky mountain divide will probably be through solid rock, and it is possible that one or two small tunnels may be required at other points. The approaches to the tunnel at the Rocky mountain divide can be made with a grade ot forty feet per mile, and an undulating grade of forty to fifiy feet will be required throughout Blackfoot River valley. The ascent from Blackfoot river to the summit divide, between the Bitter Root and Jocko. rivers, can be made with a fifty-feet grade, and with great care in the location the descent westward can be made with a sixty-feet grade. This declivity of sixty feet per mile is the highest required in all this section, and in a mountain country cannot be considered a high grade. On this inclination a train can descend with safety without the application of its brake, and without the use of its motive power ; so that while there is a loss of power in the LINE FROM BASE OF THE MOUNTAINS TO PUGET SOUND. 123 ascent, there is a gain in the descent. The natural descent of the valley of Clark’s fork, as already stated, is about eleven feet per mile. In general the road need not much exceed this, as in all mountain valleys an undulating grade will be necessary. The passage from the valley of Clark’s fork to the Spokane river, and in like manner from the Spokane river to the summit of the Spokane plain, is made with a forty-feet grade. The bridge and culvert work will be very extensive, and greater in this section than in any other. With the possible necessity of crossing Blackfoot river several times, it includes the bridging of the many small mountain tributaries which make into that river, the crossing of the principal fork of Jocko river, all of them of small volume, but rapid and liable to freshets, and some of them to be crossed higher above their water-level ; twv, and perhaps four crossings of Clark’s fork, with a width of from one hundred to two hundred yards; the crossing of Pack river, a small stream, making into Pend d’Oreille lake, which will probably be with a long causeway, leaving sufficient water-way for the passage of the river, and the crossing of Spokane river. The latter river, where crossed by the train, has a width of one hundred and seventy yards. The bridge crossing will not be so long. The woods with which this region is covered are a species of yellow pine, of excellent quality for lumber; larch of large size; white cedar of large size; spruces and firs, with a mingling of the bitter cotton-wood in the river bottoms; scattering white birches, and other and smaller trees. For fuel and construction wood is abundant, convenient, and of good quality. I believe that the only coal observed was a single isolated specimen found by Mr. Tinkham, in the bed of a tributary of Clark’s fork, and out of place. Of building-stone the mountain regions contain vast quantities, which undoubtedly will be made accessible when the necessity for their use comes. Perhaps the most convenient and valuable which will be found, are a hard stratified limestone and granite. The first was noticed in the mountains northeast of Flathead lake, but it is probably to be obtained elsewhere, and more con- veniently ; and the second was observed at the head of Bitter Root river. While the most of the stones exposed in the progress of the excavations may prove unsuitable for building purposes, there is every probability that some of them will be found available for such uses. Good granite is also found on the Columbia. The limestone referred to is apparently a carbonate, and suitable for the manufacture of lime. Clear sand is frequently met with on the line. It was observed, in abundance, in the valley of Clark’s fork, and it is to be obtained from Pend d’Oreille lake, and elsewhere. Pure cool water is lavishly supplied by the mountain streams. The road-way, for nearly the whole of this section, will have to be cleared and grubbed. With the attainment of the summit of the Spokane plain, or, as I have termed it, the Great Plain of the Columbia, the timbered and wooded country ceases until the line enters the firs of the lower Columbia, two hundred and sixty-five miles farther on. For a while the pine region skirts the route on the east, but in a half day’s journey from the summit disappears from view altogether. The Great Plain of the Columbia, which for about one hundred miles the railroad traverses before striking the Columbia river, resembles a rough, rocky prairie. Descending towards the Columbia, and entering its valley above the mouth of Snake river, the Columbia has a width of from four hundred to four hundred and fifty yards; the banks are low, and the approaches per- fectly good. Near this point must deflect any route which, seeking a more direct passage to the sound than is afforded by the Columbia river, shall cross the Cascade range by one of the passes at the head of Yakima river. On the Columbia the line is for most of the way located on the bottom lands of the river, and will rarely be forced from them to the rocky bluffs bordering its intervale. To the Dalles the bottom lands of the river have a width of from one-quarter to three miles. Bluffs, with a nearly uniform height of one hundred and fifty feet, limit the bottom lands, and are the slopes abruptly 124 LINE FROM BASE OF THE MOUNTAINS TO PUGET SOUND. terminating a grand plateau of five or ten miles in width, gently sloping to the north, and reaching to a wooded ridge, running nearly parallel with the river. Numerous small streams rise in this ridge, and, cutting the plateau into deep ravines, are eventually discharged into the Colum- bia. Passing down the Columbia from Wallah-Wallah to the Dalles on the north side of the river, the party of Mr. Tinkham found it necessary in only two instances to cross the rocky spurs jutting out from the river bluffs. 'The grades for the balance of the route to the sound will be very easy, and the work light; the heavy work being the rock-cutting where the bluffs encroach upon the river, the extra provision needed to preserve the embankments from the wash of freshets, and the possible necessity of a short tunnel at Cape Horn. The bluffy country border- ing on the Columbia ceases near Cape Horn. From below the Dalles the woods commence, and so continue to the head of Cowlitz river. The wide and comparatively flat and wooded valley of the Cowlitz connects with plains, sometimes of prairie, and sometimes of woodland, extending to Puget sound, which, although not fully explored, are sufficiently well known to insure the unusually favorable character of the country for the construction of a railway. The earth excavation and embankment will not probably exceed the heaviest work of the prairies east of the mountains, and is estimated not to exceed an average of seven to eight feet. The material for the embankment is almost always of a superior character. The Great Plain of the Columbia, and the valley of the Columbia, afford a great deal of loose, pebbly matter trom the disintegrated fragments of the trap rock, which will frequently be found to be of much value. Sand in portions of the valley of the Columbia covers extensive plains, and fine gravel plains characterize the Cowlitz valley and the intervale to the sound. The amount of rock-cutting, with the exception of the portion of the line between the Dalles and Cape Horn, will be very small. A portion of the excavation on the first part of the Spo- kane Plain will be rock ; occasional rock-cuttings will be required in the Columbia River valley, and a small tunnel of seven hundred feet in length may be required at Cape Horn. The rock in this region is generally a basaltic trap. No grade higher than forty feet will be necessary in this section, and for nearly the whole dis- tance the gradients will be very gentle. The average declivity of the valley of the Columbia is inconsiderable, being less than two feet per mile. Cowlitz river has a small descent per mile. As a whole, the culvert work will be very small in amount, falling chiefly upon that portion embracing the tributaries of the Cowlitz, and the small streams making down from the western slopes of the Cascades. The great item in bridging is the crossing of the Columbia river, near Wallah-Wallah. But little data is obtained for this crossing ; but if the river be bridged near the mouth of Snake river, as indicated on the map, the approaches are here favorable, and the length of the bridge will be about four hundred and fifty yards. Further careful examina- tion is required to determine the best position for the crossing. The route for nearly one-half of this section is through woodlands; the balance is destitute of wood on the immediate line of the road. The Great Plain of the Columbia, and the Colum- bia river bottoms as far down as the Dalles, lack wood. Thence forward to Puget sound the route is through heavy forests, principally of the fir and cedar, and abounding with valuable lumber. There will be little difficulty in furnishing the line with all lumber required in its con- struction. The interval in the Spokane Plain, wholly destitute of trees, is about 110 miles in extent; rests on extensive districts of pine, cedar, larch, &c., at its eastern edge; and on the west, touches on the water of the Columbia, reaching north into a wooded country, and offering easy opportunity for rafting logs and lumber from above. The wooded ridge beginning at about thirty miles distance from the mouth of Snake river, and running nearly parallel with the Columbia at five or ten miles distance from it, is densely covered with a large growth of timber, probably corresponding with the mixed growth of pines, firs, &c., on the eastern base of the Cascade mountains, with which it finally connects. From the ease with which this growth can be reached from the Columbia, and the facilities aflorded by LINE FROM BASE OF THE MOUNTAINS TO PUGET. SOUND. 115, the river for bringing down lumber from above, no difficulty can be felt in supplying the portion of the line on the bottom lands until the wooded lands are again entered near the Dalles. But little is yet known about the most suitable places for obtaining building-stone. Stone is found in places along the whole line—generally the trap or granite rocks. Probably the only work for which stone will be required, other than such as shall be found near the place of con- struction, is the bridge across Columbia river, near Wallah-Wallah. Captain McClellan states that “ good granite is found on the Columbia about 140 miles above the mouth of the Yakima; it may occur at a less distant point.” Dr. Suckley observed good building-stone along the whole line of the Columbia. Clean sand is noticed near the crossing of Columbia river, and on the bottom lands of Colum- bia and Cowlitz rivers, and will be obtained conveniently all along the line. The Spokane Plain, at a few points, is sparingly watered; but there will not be found any difficulty in making suitable provision for water for the use of the road. For the balance of the route this scarcity does not exist, and water is generally quite as abundant as is desirable. CHAPTER XIII. Comparison of the Distances on Several Routes. The several distances to Horse Plain, where the three routes by the Bitter Root river, the Jocko, and by the cut-off from the point of departure in the Blackfoot pass, are respectively 143 miles, 136 miles, and 111 miles. The route by the Bitter Root river will be adopted in sub- sequent comparisons. The whole length of this route from St. Paul, by Little Falls, the Grand Coulée, the Milk River valley, the northern approach by Lewis and Clark’s Pass, by the Blackfoot River valley, and the three several routes as above, by Clark’s fork, the Columbia and Cowlitz rivers, to Seattle, will be 2,052, 2,045, and 2,020 miles, respectively; and by the Yakima valley and Snoqualme Pass, will be 1,897, 1,890, and 1,560 miles. It is probable that further surveys will reduce these distances thirty to fifty miles. By going through the Marias Pass, the distance will be about the same. ; A route down the Coeur d’Alene mountains would give, respectively, 1,975 and 1,829 miles. From Little Falls the distances are— BUpme SOM OT rs. onl a pee eel as oe anne ee ieee 125 miles. SPAM Sate veic o2 cinens'n o/rem eee ae eee ee ae are epeeiee uke ineaDO. 2 2 wadaiticacme cee meen sce es Soe eanes 435 “ (via Stillwater and Madison.) And the distances from Seattle of the two routes to these three points will be, in tabular form, as follows: Snoqualme Pass, Columbia and Cowlitz, ‘To Shake sSapertor. i= 2e--5-cs ee oe eee e eR eee eee 1902imilesseo- ese ..2- 2,058 miles. St: Gbcalll See = ile aie eee neo ee eG ee ee moons L890: eee eee 2,045 <“ ChiezrOcen sn dene asee ees Seg As Se a Ee come SF Be ah BE OS. $6) ae eee eee 2,368 * The following table gives a comparison between the two routes from St. Paul to Seattle, or Puget sound, by the Columbia and Cowlitz, and by the Snoqualme Pass: Snoqualme Pass. Columbia and Cowlitz. Sueneth of toutes Sac cys nema e aca ene Senter 1,590 aniles:. 2. eae 2,045 miles. Sumimit levelet Js 4S eos eck oe cee eee eere ce S;S00 Mectw oaks eee 5,300 feet. Distance when road is 4,000 feet or more above sea ... SO umilesoe sem eee 86 miles. Distance when road is 3,000 to 4,000 feet above the sea 206 “ ..........- 206 6 Distance when road is 2,000 to 3,000 feet above the sea 957 “ ........--- 932 ¢¢ Distance when road is 1,000 to 2,000 feet above the sea 1,692 ‘“ ........-.. 1,564 * Distance when road is less than 1,000 feet above the sea 174 ‘“ .....-...-- 488 ‘+ Dipnpth of tunnels jjaasesc oc vedas Ue dsp epee 9.32 ‘ (long tunnel) 2.59 “* 4.86 ‘(short tunnel) Grades, bOstoiG0 feet. acts scence es 6c SO eee ee ee BO 1s 6 50) to mOilects ss cece ods chee eee EEE nee CO eel are fa eas vie meee 580 ae se Opto BO eetae cos ohn cee ee See eee OES ess 1,472 ae It is assumed that any route to Oregon by the South Pass must make the Great Salt lake set- tlement in its course, descending into its valley by the Timpanogos river, and that it will pass west of the Great Salt lake. ) COMPARISON OF THE DISTANCES ON SEVERAL ROUTES. 127 It is not believed that any route will be found leading from the good passes at the sources of the tributaries of the Bitter Root, and those of the Missouri and Yellowstone, and the upper valley of the Bitter Root, to the Little Salmon river, and thence to the Columbia, which will come into competition with that of Clark’s fork. It is possible, however, that a route from the western fron- tier of Missouri and Iowa may be found, which, passing through the Black Hills and one of these good passes, will more readily reach the valley of the Columbia and the waters of the sound than by the South Pass. Assuming Council Bluffs as the point of departure of such a route, the distances will be re- spectively to Seattle, by the Columbia river and the Snoqualme Pass, as follows: Black Hill and Northern Pass. South Pass. Council Bluffs to Seattle, by the Snoqualme Pass...........--- 1,997 miles: .. =. 23128 miles. oC 4» by thei Columbia) river sauese32 . ase Collis) 10 Vo Bo yeay Ge This examination is an important one, especially if the South Pass prove a difficult and almost an impracticable line. A comparison of the profile of the northern route, and that by the South Pass, establishes the superiority of the former, not only in the lower elevation of the range itself, but of a large space of country adjacent thereto. The information furnished by the surveys of Colonel Fremont and Captain Stansbury makes it probable that the Great Salt Lake valley must be a point of any route to the Columbia river, through the general region of the South Pass, and that it can but be reached by the river Timpanogos, which flows into Lake Utah, at a point about fifty miles south of the Great Salt lake. The Golden Pass, a pass a few miles to the north, and the Weber river, still farther north, will probably afford practicable passes. It is possible that the valley of the Bear river, as far as Soda springs, (where, from flowing in a direction a little to the west of north, the river turns suddenly to the south,) and thence to Snake river, in the general direction of Fort Hall, would afford a feasible route. The elevation of Soda springs is 5,738 feet above the sea; that of Fort Hall 4,700 feet; the distance is about fifty miles, and an intermediate range, probably at least 500 feet high, would have to be crossed. From the height of the summit, on the direct line to Fort Hall from the Great Salt lake, about 6,400 feet above the sea, a route in this general direction would be difficult. It will require thorough examinations in subsequent surveys, and is alluded to in this connexion in explanation of my adopting the Great Salt Lake valley as a point of the route. The river Timpanogos is adopted as the best entrance into the valley. The importance, however, of the Great Salt Lake settlement as a point in the communication across the continent cannot be over-estimated, and the feasibility of routes through that region both to San Francisco and Puget sound should be ascertained by actual examination. Before proceeding to the plan of construction, and other matters of a general character, I will endeavor to show that no obstructions need be apprehended from snow, and at a subsequent part of my report I will allude to the governmental measures required to guard against the hostilities of the Indian tribes. CHAPTER Ve Meteorology of the Field Explored. The meteorology of the field covered by the exploration is one of the most interesting, as it is one of the most important subjects of inquiry. It is not obstructed by deep snow, nor is the temperature as low as has been generally imagined. There is a great depression in the whole mountain chain of the Rocky mountains, the higher plateaus being nearly three thousand, and the lower two thousand feet above the sea; whereas, at the 41st parallel, the higher plateaus are six thousand, and the lower and more general ones are four thousand five hundred feet above the sea. The greatest elevation of the Rocky mountains is south of the South Pass, in latitude 39° to 40°, ‘hare the Platte, the Rio Grande, the Arkansas, and the Colorado of the Gulf of California have their rise. The mountain chain then rapidly declines to near the 48th parallel. The temperature of the Rocky mountains at this parallel is as mild as any part down to the 35th parallel of latitude. Moreover, on the western coast, the prevailing westerly winds and the currents of the Pacific ocean, similar to, though less known than the Gulf Stream; have modified the climate to such a degree that the isothermal lines run nearly parallel to the coast, making the climate of Puget sound nearly if not quite as mild as that of San Francisco, and causing it to correspond with that of the western coast of Europe in the same latitude. Puget sound and Vancouver’s island are strikingly like Ireland and West Shetland in temperature; the first locality having a mean temperature for July of 65°, while Dublin has but 60°, and the British islands range from 57° to 63°. At Sitka, in Russian America, the mean of winter at 35°, and the summer mean of 56°, correspond to the north of Ireland and Scotland. The effect of this amelioration of temperature not only extends to the Rocky mountains, but is felt on the eastern slope and for some distance on the plains, where, in turn, it is met by the temperatures from the Atlantic sweeping over the vast interior continental areas, growing some- what colder till the western end of Lake Superior and the Red river settlement of the north is reached, and then growing milder till it meets the temperatures from the Pacific at an equilibrium. As regards the distribution of rain and snow, much of the moisture is deposited before reaching this high latitude, except on the coast, where there is a large local precipitation; and the Cas~ cades mountains of Oregon and Washington arrest much of the rain that would be distributed farther in the interior, especially in winter; and, as a consequence, the Rocky mountains in that latitude have little winter precipitation, and the plains eastward have still less. The general plateau from the head of the Mississippi westward, to and including the Rocky mountains, has indeed the least winter precipitation of any portion of the continent, and can furnish no accu- mulation of snow from the two or three inches of water falling in a frozen state in the winter months. The latitude is too high up for a large amount of precipitation, except near the coast. The great summer precipitation of the upper portion of the Mississippi valley shows the line of pro- fuse rains to be at its farthest point northward there at that season of the year. On the plains it extends farther north into British America, and on the coast of the Pacific it stretches from Sitka northward nearly over the whole line of the coast. From these general facts of distribution of the water falling in rain and snow in the extreme seasons, the observed facts of the winter climate of the interior are seen to have merely their natural place. Little accumulation of snows can exist in the interior of these latitudes, at what- METEOROLOGY OF THE FIELD EXPLORED. 129 ever elevation; and none of the elevations are such as to give extreme temperatures, or to break the force of the general modifying influences here referred to. With but few results of recent observation in the shape of mean temperatures, or measures of amount of rain and snow, a few statements comprising such stations as have been observed are given inatabular form. Their general significance may here be mentioned. In the first, the mean temperatures for the last five years are given at the stations most nearly in a line from Fort Snelling westward. In this series Fort Clark and Fort Union, of the Missouri, are given as observed at an earlier date, as no recent observations are at band from these posts, and they are much needed to fill up the line. The observations at Fort Benton of December, and those of the St. Mary’s valley of January and February, are combined; the remaining obser- vations, though made and their general character known, not being at hand. It will be seen that the mean temperatures increase rapidly westward for all parts of the year, except the summer months, though the latitude constantly increases, and the elevation also, except at the immediate coast of the Pacific. Thus, for the winter months, five years’ observa- tions at Fort Snelling, one year at Fort Ciark, (two months’ observations,) one winter at Fort Union, one winter at Fort Benton and St. Mary’s, three winters at Lapwai on the Kooskooskia river. we have— Fort Snelling, latitude 45°........-... Jena Ache Hee koHe dao Babodécl « temperature 13°3 Pom, Clank, lettin Wes 66 se eae SSS E EERO OSES ese ce aia 6 14°.5 ont Whnom., leunencke ces 6s eRe Re ORCI Seer ae erase Mere “ 93°.8 HOLE entOnemlatitn ders c1eO ne ace siecics «ccs seine «soc se = fees sole jean “ 26°.1 St. Mary’s, latitude 46° 30’.....- Seissc SSA 8 id bette teh ce Se cake dane) Se SG RS TR ce 26°.1 Bapwat, latitude 6° 30)... onan eee - RSP eee SES Ceetes a 36°.9 Fort Benton will be a little colder, and St. Mary’s milder. In the second table, extremes of temperature for each month of 1853, and for three months of 1854, are given. These follow the same law. In the third table, winter temperatures are compared for the last three winters. In this table Milwaukie, Buffalo, and Boston are added, to extend this comparison through known districts to the Atlantic. The lowest winter temperatures are at Fort Snelling; and the line extending west- ward from this point has higher temperatures than that extending eastward to the Atlantic, and this by a large measure of difference. Another comparison is made of stations on the meridians of the Rocky Mountains plateau. These are detached and few, but they show striking uniformity of winter temperatures over the whole plateau, though the extreme points thus compared differ by twelve degrees of latitude. In a general table the amount of precipitation in rain and snow is given, for a series of sta- tions, in the line of the first temperature comparisons. Fewer stations are embraced than in the first case, and Fort Laramie, in latitude 42°, is used as a representative of the district of the upper Missouri. It differs only in giving a larger precipitation than is found northward in the same longitudes. An important point of comparison here is wanting, in measuring the contrasts in precipitation of the mountain regions in different latitudes. Observations of a general character supply some facts here, but there are no precise measures. The general laws of chmatology before referred to embrace all that may be properly introduced here. These results have been arrived at by combining with the observations of the exploration those of the Smithsonian Institu- tion, and those of the military posts reported to the Surgeon General’s office. With these general observations, I will proceed to give a more particular view of the manner in which the meteoro- logical field was occupied, and of the results which have been established. For these tables, and for valuable suggestions in reference to the climatology of the region tra- versed, I am indebted to Professor Blodget, of the Smithsonian Institution. The observations for altitude, by the barometer, were made throughout the day at each charac- LF 130 METEOROLOGY OF THE FIELD EXPLORED. teristic change on the base-line of the survey, and at important points off the line, to gain the contour of the country. Each engineer party was provided with its barometer, and careful com- parisons were made at night. Occasionally the results were tested by the usual levelling instru- ment. Fixed stations were established at Fort Benton, Fort Union, and Cantonment Stevens in the St. Mary’s valley, at Vancouver, and at Olympia. Observations were also made for compar- ison at Fort Snelling and St. Louis. The final discussions will be made by the officers of the Smithsonian Institution, and in connexion with the large body of observations made in all parts of the country under their direction. 30.00 is assumed as the altitude of the mercurial column at the level of the sea for the work of the portion east of the Cascades; and a fraction over thirty inches, the result of five months’ observation at Vancouver, for the altitude at that place. It is believed the results given in the profiles will be found sufficiently near the truth, in the final discussion, to be relied on in the pre- liminary computation. Much attention has been given to ascertain the circumstances of the snows and freshets of the whole country passed over, both by inquiries from all reliable sources and from actual] observation by winter parties. Iam able to give conclusive reasons to show that no obstructions whatever need be apprehended from snow at any point of the route. From the plateau of the Bois de Sioux and the Red river of the North to Lake Superior, two feet is a large quantity of snow, though winters have been known when the snow was considerably deeper. The winters are dry, the weather clear and bracing, with little or no wind. The mercury, though occasionally it falls to a very low point, is seldom below zero. The coldest day of the winter of 1852-53, February 8, the mercury fell to 25° below zero, and the winters are from four to four and a half months long. Frosts seldom occur before October. The fall climate is remarkably fine. The Hon. H. M. Rice, the delegate from Minnesota, has often travelled in winter from St. Paul to Crow Wing, a distance of one hundred and fifty miles, with a single horse and sled and without a track, and has never found snow deep enough to impede his progress. From Crow Wing he has gone to the waters of Hudson’s bay on foot, without snow-shoes. During one winter he travelled through that region, finding the snow seldom over nine, and never over eighteen inches deep. For several years he had trading-posts extending from Lake Superior to the Red river of the North, from 46° to 49° north latitude, and never found the snow too deep to prevent supplies from being transported from one part to another with horses. One winter, north of Crow Wing, in latitude 47°, he kept sixty head of horses and cattle without feed of any kind, except what they could procure themselves under the snow. Voyageurs travel all winter from Lake Superior to the Missouri with horses and sleds, having to make their own roads; and yet, with heavy loads, are not deterred by snows. Lumbermen. in great numbers, winter in the pine regions of Min- nesota with their teams; and the snow is never too deep to prosecute their labor. Occasional winters the snow is not over six inches deep. The average close of navigation of the upper Mis- sissippi for the last five years is November 26, and the average first spring arrival April 8. The Hon. H. H. Sibley, the last delegate from Minnesota, also a most experienced voya- geur, states that the snow seldom exceeds fourteen or fifteen inches, and he has known two or three winters in succession when there was not snow enough for tolerable sleighing. Alexander Culbertson, Esq., the great voyageur and fur-trader of the upper Missouri, and who for the last twenty years has made frequent trips by land from St. Louis to Fort Benton, has never found the snow drifted enough to interfere with travelling. The average depth of snow is twelve inches, and frequently the snow does not exceed six inches. The letter of Mr. Rice and extracts from those of Mr. Sibley and Mr. Culbertson are ap- pended, for a more full view of the winter climate of the region. At St. Paul, the coldest days of six winters are as follows: 184546 2 cco outer Seay o EUs emia crectecomist ke nee acts) disis (cia 2 ee below zero 18° 1846-"47 ..... Biale.e athute Gee Rhino Seateiae Sake war eiteitta pee attinateia. «asi ioe a Ke 27 METEOROLOGY OF THE FIELD EXPLORED. 131 ESAT AAAS) Aas ee Sarai cise sree tee Shas. cocci sate Beas ist below zero 28° MRA S— 74 O pee nen ee ere ara al ote a Peenioteey etait eve srcle atinta Ss Sere cee GS eS cision “ 37 TS ee ee S15 Oo. SOE COLO COIS IDOIOR COIR EOI IIe Rae eee ce 31 Sain neiartes hy scopy en a yt age anak y madisswudSoldaceeoue s «gag At Pembina, on the Red river of the North, and just under the 49th parallel, the winter climate is somewhat colder than at St. Paul, the mercury freezing once or twice during each winter. The spirit thermometer has shown a temperature of 52° below zero, The navigation of the Red river closes from the lst to the 15th November, and opens from the 10th to the 25th of April. Westward to the Rocky mountains, the climate becomes milder and the quantity of snow is less. In the immediate vicinity of Fort Union, the fall of snow is light; and the Missouri gener- ally freezes from the 20th of November to the 1st of December, and breaks up about the Ist of April. Through the courtesy of the officers of that post, observations of the temperature, and of the occurrence of ice and snow, will be kept for many months, which will hereafter give the means of developing still further the meteorology of that region. At Fort Benton the climate is comparatively mild. But little snow falls, and the Fur Com- panies who have occupied that position for twenty years always carry their goods to their trading posts in winter, on the Milk and Marias rivers, in wagons. They have a post on the Milk river and at the forks of the Marias, the former about seventy-five miles from Fort Benton, a little to the east of north, and the other about one hundred miles in a north-northwest direction. Even on a line much farther north, the quantity of snow is not excessive. Thomas Simpson, from December 1, 1836, to February 1, 1837, made a journey of 1,277 miles, on a route between latitudes 50° and , from the Red river to Fort Chipewayan, on Lake Athabasca, taking in his route Forts Pelby and Carlton. The weather was mild till December 16, and no snow of consequence was on the ground till December 14. At Fort Pelby, near the source of the Assiniboin river, the temperature on December 19th fell to 44° below zero. The route to Carlton, which was reached on the 30th December, was over a rolling country, affording food at times to countless herds of buffalo, the weather being intensely cold. Thence to Fort Chipe- wayan the route was through a wooded and most picturesque country, the weather at times mild and rainy, the snows of the valleys soft, and the depth at Lake Athabasca about three feet. The probable depth from Fort Carlton to this poimt was from two to three feet. I experienced great difficulty, both at Fort Union and Fort Benton, in getting information as to the snows in the passes of the Rocky mountains, and as to the period when they were practicable for horses. Even at Fort Union the employés of the expedition were disturbed by assurances from the half-breed: in that vicinity, that they would find the snow knee-deep before reaching Fort Benton, and that the Rocky mountains would be impassable. At Fort Benton most diligent inquiry was made of the members of the Fur Companies and of the Blackfeet Indians. No person was found who had ever crossed the mountains later than the first days of November, or earlier than the first days of April. The general opinion was that the snows were some twenty feet deep from November till April, and sometimes till May. But as no person could speak from positive observation, it became necessary to determine the question experimentally. Winter posts were therefore established at Fort Benton and in the St. Mary’s valley, under the direction of Mr. James Doty and Lieutenant Mullan, and, in accordance with his own original suggestion, Lieutenant Grover was directed to leave Fort Benton in January, and cross the ranges to the Pacific with a dog train. On reaching the St. Mary’s valley, information was received from the Flathead Indians that the passes were generally practicable with horses throughout the winter. There has been no communication whatever between Fort Benton and the St. Mary’s valley. The Flatheads never 132 METEOROLOGY OF THE FIELD EXPLORED. visit Fort Benton, and the Blackfeet Indians go to the valley only to steal horses. Victor, the Flathead chief, assured me that his people always recrossed the mountains in December or January, generally between Christmas and New Year—men, women, and children—with their horses laden with meat and buffalo robes. It was only in a winter of extraordinary severity, and at rare intervals, that they could not cross in January and February. I also learned that the Washington Territory Indians went to the hunt in October and November, and returned in February and March. This information has since been confirmed by myself and the gentlemen of my party meeting many hundreds of these Indians on their way to the plains, and ascertaining from them and the fathers of the mission their customs in this respect. In order to give as wide a range as possible to the general field of exploration, and to accu- mulate information on this interesting question, Mr. Tinkham was sent back to Fort Benton with orders to return by a more southern trail to the St. Mary’s valley, and thence to take the south- ern Nez Perces trail to Wallah-Wallah, and thence by the military road over the Cascades to Nisqually. This last order was modified, and he was directed to cross the Cascades by the Snoqualme Pass. “Expresses were also sent from the Columbia, by Clark’s fork, to the St. Mary’s valley, through the winter, and the condition of the snows ascertained during December, January, and February. The results may be summed up as follows: In the Rocky mountains the greatest average depth of snow found by Lieutenant Mullan, from the 28th of November to the 10th of January, was only twelve inches, and that only for a short distance over the divide. On the divide from the Jeflerson fork to Snake river the snow, though only twelve inches deep, was occasionally drifted from two to three feet deep. In this period he made an exploration to Fort Hall, going and returning on different routes, crossing the mountains four several times, and making an aggregate distance of more than seven hundred miles. The mountain region thus crossed was from the forks of the Missouri to the Hell Gate river. On the divide leading to the Hell Gate river, there was but two inches of snow on the 31st of December. I will call attention to the circumstance that, on the divide from the Three Forks to the Salmon river, Lieutenant Mullan’s guide found but three feet of snow in the winter of 1852—’53—a season remarkable for the great quantity of snow which fell—and ‘that he crossed it in the winter with his horses. The grass, except from the Snake River divide to Fort Hall, was rich and luxuriant in the valleys. The weather was as cold as in many parts of the New England States; the ther- mometer falling in some cases to 28° below zero. On the 27th of January Lieutenant Mullan writes me that Victor, with the Indians of his own and other tribes, were crossing the mountains from the buffalo plains. In March Lieutenant Mullan went to Fort Benton by the southern and Little Blackfoot, and returned by the northern Little Blackfoot Pass, finding but ten inches on the first pass'and no snow on the second pass. Lieutenant Grover, afier his survey of the upper Missouri, remained at Fort Benton through the month of December, during which month the Missouri had been obstructed only a day or two with ice. He left Fort Benton on the second day of January, no snow having fallen till the pre- vious evening, and crossing the divide by Cadotte’s Pass he found but one foot of snow on the divide and on the Blackfoot trail; thence to Wallah-Wallah, which he reached on the fourth day of March, he found little or no snow in the valleys and on the prairies till he reached Thompson’s prairie, on Clark’s fork. From this point his course was through a densely wooded country, and the snow gradually increased in depth till at the distance of fifty miles it reached the depth of two feet, and remained about this depth till within a few miles of the Pend d’Oreille lake, where it began to decrease, and in the immediate vicinity of the lake was only one foot deep. On the shores of the lake the snow continued to decrease, and occasionally a fine field of grass was METEOROLOGY OF THE FIELD EXPLORED. 133 found. From the crossing of Clark’s fork to the Coeur d’Alene prairie, a distance of sixty miles, the route was through a wooded country, and the snow was two and a half feet deep and very hard. On leaving the forest for Coeur d’Alene prairie, the snow disappeared, the grass was good, and no difficulty whatever was experienced in reaching Wallah-Wallah. I will call attention to the influence of the forests in preserving the depth of snow, and to its entire disappearance, from being two and a half feet deep, immediately on reaching the prairies, and this on the 23d of Feb- ruary. On this same route, in January the snow was, in the woods, not over one and a half foot deep, and there was little or no snow on the prairies. A track opened for a wagon or a railroad, would not have been encumbered at any point with over a foot of snow the entire winter. In this connexion tt will be well to advert to the large quantities of horses and cattle at Fort Benton, in the St. Mary’s valley, and in the several prairies on Clark’s fork, which are alluded to by Lieutenants Grover and Mullan as being fat in the middle of winter. The average temperature found by Lieut. Grover from January 2d to January 11th, before leaving the plains to ascend to the dividing ridge, (he reached the ridge at noon January 12th,) ten days, was 20°.9 ; and whilst going through the pass to the Bitter Root valley, from January 11th to January 21st, eleven days, was 10°.4 below zero. From January 31st to March 2d, on his journey to Wallah-Wallah, the average temperature was 33°.3. It must be remarked, however, that Lieut. Grover crossed the divide and was in the pass du- ring the coldest weather of the winter ; that on the 22d day of January, after entering the St. Mary’s valley, the thermometer at sunrise was only 1° above zero, while at about the same point on the 31st of January it was, at sunrise, 55° above zero, and at Cantonment Stevens it ranged, from January 27th to January 31st, from 29° to 46°. That Lieut. Grover crossed the divide at the coldest season is confirmed by corresponding ob- servations at many other points. The period of greatest cold marched steadily eastward last winter, it requiring some four or five days to reach the Atlantic from the head of the Mississippi, and six days from Fort Benton. The following tables of comparisons, both for the cold period of eleven days in the pass and for the comparatively mild period of ten days approaching the; pass, show that the temperature of the pass was 6°.6 milder than that of Pembina, but ,°5° colder than that of Lacquiparle, and some 7°.4 colder than that of Oldtown, Maine ; and that the temperature of the plateau reaching from Fort Benton to the pass was 2°.6 milder than the corresponding mild period of the same stations, stretching from the Red river of the North to Nova Scotia. In the appendix will be found a temperature chart illustrative of these facts. Comparison of eleven days crossing the Rocky mountains with the corresponding temperatured periods in a line towards the Atlantic : Crossing the Rocky mountains ...... sedus mais tye os e+e ---12th to 22d January, —10°.1 Pembina, Red River valley --.-.--- A ihe a ccgh chipei geri 13th to 24th —17°.7 BITE R play els Sak evithewdiesstewseieeinn = oe fae tone eee a eetS B 14th to 24th “ —4° Lacquiparle, Minnesota........---.- eee dys eyeeaspaat See 14th to 24th a — 9°.2 TS GUTS EE ee ee ee ee ree 14th to 24th s — 9°.3 ere snipe NWISCONSIN sae eedel = crecrbintsiwen erie) aerdcioals eic's ena 16th to 25th 0G + 4°.4 Drptattidice ley iuisaicinivieniy «0 nenios ae sidgoySyeibiotert Ieee ea 14th to 24th “ — 7°.3 RNR eh athe spp Nel thesis eetrele a ee me oie efesie(e tole epetire eerie 14th to 24th mu +23° ERIS: SiG Ta a re oh fever patie cy mroceyetbraceid pred if ep ecncrs tates 16th to 25th “ +21°.8 \Wosje TPRinin i 2g en en er rr 16th to 25th a +25°.8 Aub ersted Massde hsetts seas Sse aibya. cd @ oid kre ~) x yet emmy rcynmcencts 17th to 26th ‘6 +20°.7 Oldtown, Maine.......--.- Se Se eet aoe ree Te heer 18th to 28th ‘“ — 2.7 AlbionwiMiness Noval Scotia steierccratedeeccctsdsianieek o-eeee 18th to 29th “e ic AD: epee a ae MURR en cen EL) syed c ha sehayare, wand 18th to 29th ee — 1° Palur Gling baie AiR Setetctarsrstordt: epee ctexeicroyecs} orc wii tiscerspm are 18th to 29th ce steel oik 134 METEOROLOGY OF THE FIELD EXPLORED. Comparison of ten days before reaching the summit with the corresponding temperature periods , 5 fo) eastward : Between Fort Benton and the Rocky mountains.............- 2d to 11th January, -+24° Pembinagiteakhiver valley== acccseret so tewcnccc ee ot tcc eee 3d to 12th 66 + 5° HOLS Oe INnpepeecincce soc nas cece ccc nite cee ce in eho meets 4th to 13th “ + 7°.7 Ponnevo cera. orcc Ssh a eck ut espesces se slescce cee 4th to 13th “ + 3°.9 HeAeuUipaMey MINNESOLA- 6 s-22 -'-22 > oeiein a elo sin a elon te eet 2d to 12th 6 +13°.6 Fort Ridgeley Be ei ba aa aie ae aja eletete s alas) =p olnieloie mie eaters a eieenaters 4th to 12th a + §°.5 Madison “WiSCOnSIN: ..<22.2%-scase esses cesses cee oeeeeaer 4th to 13th “ +17°.5 LA ree rricosodooSooar bea cusuebcosugobones 4th to 13th 6s +32°.4 iochester...o2- 2h: 2c cee eee ee al atypia Be 4th to 16th “6 +30°.4 Wiest Point...< si. sos Gstecmcclieses Sete an coer oe See eee 5th to 16th 6c +32° Amherst; Massachusettssit tex me cnciece sae cen sae eaten 6th to 16th a: +27°.4 Oldtown, Maine.:2 Scecee~ cout ee oe eee ee eee cee eee 6th to 18th cc +14°.2 Albion’ Mines Novaiscotian.- 2 onee oestrone et cone eee 6th to 18th “6 +20°.4 Meaiiz osc et eer e een ae re eee ee ee Cn ee eee eee ele 24°.0 OG Mr. Tinkham met with no snow on the Marias Pass till the day aftercrossing the divide, October 2ist, when a few inches fell. His course back was by the Little Blackfoot trail, and the snow was about an inch or two deep in the divide. On the southern Nez Perces trail over the Bitter Root mountains, the snow was six feet deep for one hundred miles or more. This trail is from one hundred to one hundred and fifty miles south of the railroad line. This depth of six feet oc- curred in December, when there was but twelve to fifteen inches in the passes of the Rocky mountains, the divide being at least 7,500 feet high, and it covered a much greater extent of country. The snows are of an entirely different character, being wet and compact, and the tem- perature much milder than in the Rocky mountain divide. Mr. Tinkham’s passage of the Cascades on the 21st January furnishes the only observations we possess as to the depth of snow in that range. Crossing after mid-winter, he found for six miles the snow six feet deep, with occasional depths of seven feet, as also of four feet. For twenty additional miles the snow was from four to six feet deep, and for twenty-five miles more, two to four feet. Of this depth one and a half to two feet fell on the night of the 19th and 20th January, so that in mid-winter the snow was but four to five feet deep in the divide. This snow was very light, in layers of one and a half to two feet, and Mr. Tinkham is of opinion that the rains of February would tend to make the snow more compact, so that the depth would diminish, notwith- standing more snow fell, making the pass practicable in March. I will particularly refer you to his report for the details of his interesting trip, and the conclusion which his judgment has reached in this question. I discredit the evidence of Indians, except when they have actually made per- sonal observations. The Indians cannot be competent witnesses as to the snow being six or ten feet deep in one place, or twenty to twenty-five feet in another, lying in their lodges as they do all winter, and seldom ever using snow-shoes at all. Early in January the Indians at the Sno- qualme falls were of opinion that the snows in the pass were twenty to twenty-five feet deep, where, according to Mr. Tinkham’s measurements, making the allowances for the intermediate fall of snow, it could not have exceeded four or five feet. Among the Yakimas, Mr. Tinkham was hardly able to get shoes enough for his party, and none were found among the Snoqualme Indians on the other side. It was with difficulty he could get guides, and was in consequence detained two days; yet he was assured by them that the snow in the pass would only be up to, METEOROLOGY QF THE FIELD EXPLORED. 135 or perhaps a little above, the head of his horse, and he got the impression from them that there Was more snow than usual. I have no question that there are exceptional winters, when the snow may for short distances considerably exceed the depth found this winter. But it will require the combination of some two months’ weather much colder, and moisture more excessive, than the average. Thus the last two winters have each given only one cold month—January last winter, and February the winter before. About the same quantity of rain and snow fell each month, viz: eight inches and a fraction; much of it was no doubt deposited in the pass in snow. I am of opinion, however, that even in these months some rain fell in the pass, and that in the remaining months of these years it fell principally in rain. Iam aware that the quantity of moisture at Steilacoom is not the measure at the pass, where it must be much less. These observations are conclusive, however, relatively, as they determine the quantity of moisture deposited in the sound, to which the moist- ure in the pass must have definite relation. It will be interesting to continue these observatious through a term of successive years. The experience of Fort Benton and St. Mary’s valley is full of significance and instruction. I am assured by Mr. Pambrun, the chief clerk in charge of the Wallah-Wallah post, that his father took a band of horses through the Nahchess Pass about Christmas, some years since, and [ inter- rogated one of the employés at the post, who actually accompanied Mr. Pambrun, sr., on the occasion. Iam informed by respectable gentlemen on the sound, that it is no uncommon thing fur the Indians to cross the Snoqualme Pass with horses in mid-winter. At all events, the In- dians who accompanied Mr. Tinkham in January, made their arrangements to recross the pass in February. They cached their snow-shoes at the upper end of Nook-noo lake, eighteen miles west of the summit, thus showing that they did not expect much increase of snow, and they de- sired to take the foot-trail referred to by Captain McClellan, assuring him there would be less snow than in the usual horse-trail. Moreover, there is every reason to believe that the snow was in unusual quantities in the cascades the last year. It is well known that a much larger quantity of snow was deposited on the shores of Puget sound. Careful observations of the temperature, and of the amount of water falling in rain and snow, have been taken for a consecutive period of five years at Fort Steilacoom, and the result has been that more water was deposited the last year than the average of five preceding, but that more must have been deposited in snow. A com- parison of the three winter months, for the past five winters, shows, at Fort Steilacoom, a deposit of 20.68 inches the last winter, against 20.22, 20.86, 19.39, and 22.10, for four previous win- ters: adding the month of November, it shows 39.09 against 26.39, 23.88, 24.53, and 31.52; or throwing out February, in order to bring the comparison as near as practicable to Mr. Tinkham’s crossing of the pass, we have 31.52 this year against 23.15, 18.45, 23.06, and 26.69. The av- erage temperature of the three winter months is 38.3 for this year, against 37.3, 43, 39.6, and 37.1, of previous years ; and for the three months, November, December, and January, we have 40.1 this year, against 40.3, 44.1, 40, and 40, of previous years. The moisture is in great excess, nearly fifty per cent., and the temperature is slightly below the average. In November last the mean temperature was but 4% of a degree greater than in December. It is true that in February of this year there was nearly as much moisture deposited as in January, and the temperature was only 1°.3 above the average of the three months. It is greater than that of January by 9°, and less than the average of November and December 5°.3. A greater proportion of snow neces- sarily fell in that month than in November and December. Moreover, the experience of the survey of Clark’s fork corroborates this. Excepting for about six or seven miles, the Snoqualme Pass is at a much less average elevation than the route from Thompson’s prairie to the Coeur d’Alene prairie; and being in close vicinity to the waters of the sound, the temperature must be higher. The average temperature down Clark’s fork, where the snow was met with, from T hompson’s prairie to Pend d’Oreille lake, and from the crossing of Clark’s fork to the Coeur d’Alene prairie, was about 32°; whereas 136 METEOROLOGY OF THE FIELD EXPLORED. during the same period, February 7 to 15, and February 19 to 24, the average temperature of Puget sound was about 42°; yet the snow in Clark’s fork increased nowhere more than one foot, and that uniformly in the wooded portion of the route. While these are the probable conclusions from what is known, the question ought not to be considered settled till further exami- nations are made. But I have no question that much of the moisture in all the winter months is deposited in rain in the mountain passes; and this conclusion must be reached by every observer of the effect of the warm rains of the winter on the surrounding mountains, causing in November, in December, and in February (I speak of what was observed last winter) large masses of snow entirely to dis- appear. The mountains change from day to day. The whole surface of the mountain slopes will be covered one day with snow, and the next large portions will disappear, in consequence of the genial rains. I much regret that Lieutenant Grover did not receive my orders in time to go through the pass in March. I have thus fully gone into the reasons which have convinced me that there will not be suffi- cient snow in this pass to obstruct the passage of cars, and that frequently the pass is practicable for horses all through the winter. I believe a wagon-road can be used through that pass with but little labor all winter. It seems to me that the conclusions to which I have come, from actual observations, are to be drawn; from the extreme narrowness of the mountain range at the pass, only about seven and a half miles; from its absolute altitude, only 3,500 feet, being more than 2,388 feet above Vancouver ; from the open character of the valleys on both sides; and from the mild character of the climate of Puget sound, in close proximity, causing much of the moisture to be deposited in rain. Should the grades be found good on the western slope, of which I am confident, the Snoqualme Pass must furnish the entrance to the sound of the trunk line of the northern route; and it becomes important, to satisfy the skeptical, to test thoroughly the ques- tions of snow as well as of grades. In the event of the continuation of the survey, I would recom- mend establishing a winter post near that pass. At all events, it is unquestionable that no obstruc- tions from snow exist in the passes of the Rocky mountains, and of the route of Clark’s fork, the Spokane plain, the Columbia and Cowlitz valleys, to Puget sound. For more information in reference to this subject I will refer you to Lieutenant Grover’s report of his winter trip from Fort Benton to Wallah-Wallah, marked I 36; to Mr. Tinkham’s report, marked I 37; and to Mr. Mullan’s’report of his reconnaissance to Fort Hall, marked G 25; as also to the letters of Mr. Rice, Mr. Sibley, and Mr. Culbertson, marked I 38, in the appendix. No. 1.—MEAN TEMPERATURE FOR EACH OF THE LAST FIVE YEARS. Fort Snelling—latitude 45°. pe i 5 rs 5 : Years. ad . ae 2 u a 2 we a . af Bol IRE e000 age fa Een Pe Pa = pe 2 2 2 : - | Years. E E a 4 FA & | r= | 30 s | a | & | - 5 = S) = : o S =} ° ov S ce ste il eee = Semeccmie ee Sgr | cr SSeS pee eR Be le |g s es = < = 5 5 4 B 3} Zz A | a a | St. Mary’s Village—latitude 46° 30’. ys? Bo ee eee ao aone| teaeea| Ronee! occeoc | aeeccd leet beeotal Goce tel Cereal eer Reese Sea | eae | mace Lapwai, Kooskooskia—latitude 46° 30’. ] 1837..| 32.5 | 37.5 | 43.2 | 56.0 | 61.0 | 67.7 | 68.2 | 71.0 | 60.0 | 48.2 | 41.5 | 40.0 | 53.4 | 69.0 | 50.0 | 36.7 | Boas 1840..| 38.0 | 41.5 | 42.2 | 49.5 | 54.0 | 70.0 | 72.0 | 73.0 | 68.0 | 48.0 | 41.5 | 40.8 | 48.6 | 71.7 | 52.5 | 40.1 | 3,2 eee ECMO ME ION eet Meee) eee anal Aetna eta. |lnaeens||sooeen|o casas |scnson|cccoos lstoeeclcsoccellascees|cccece are. Mean.| 31.8 | 38.5 | 42.7 | 52.7 | 57.5 | 68.9 | 70.1 | 72.0 | 64.0 | 48.1 | 41.5 | 40.4 | 51.0 | 70.3 | 51.2 | 36.9 | 62.3 MEAN TEMPERATURES AT STATIONS IN THE NORTHWEST. Steilacoom, Puget sound—latitude 47°. 1852.-| 44.6 | 44.3 | 42.8 | 48.8 | 60.9 | 72,6 1853..| 37.8 | 42.1 | 46.5 | 54.2 | 60,0 | 63,3 1854..|..-.. SBsO) |e, Ohi /sea Mean-| 40.3) 40.7 | 44.1 | 50.3 | 61.0 | 66.0 18 / 138 METEOROLOGY. No. 1—Continued. Dalles of Columbiu—latitude 45° 40'. : 3 gs | 8 i 2 : <2 H 2 ee : Years. | E g : ; < E 2 8 | sb FI 8 5 eleteladlelelel/s/slilelelelzelala I EI is 5 ; Sie | os | Bw RL OS | BT eh ee Se ee a eee TEE) 23 fe eel eel (eg el PCW ea ee Fea lel see's Ss}! BYE Sy |oarerl ase 49:5)|. = ae 16516 2 1597.91| 4064 | 46.7 | cn-cc-|sconk=|sena5-|neonsal ssceten| see See [ee e- | beasad| pene lees | a ae | eee a TEC J]: ed gaa RON RE 8 ORICA Ie | re ey ae 54-1 || 49:2: |) 26, 1 tc. ostl|besecol te oes | Noe 1853..| 32.3] 37.1 | 43.7 | 53:4 | 62.1 | 66.6 | 74.9 | 70.2 | 63.7 | 55.3 | 42.1 | 40.1 | 53.1 | 70.6 | 53.7 | 36.5 | 53.5 HEAP | 22.01/38.9 | 46.0 |e. = 20 lee= Q EI | hall ee Shall vs SN ate || ex) S| & > | 3 aS 2 Ss I S r=] =) = > ° So 2 5 ic A < = 5 5 < na ° A A PHORiG MNOLUIN Bye }= doe annem eersue nese eee —15 |-24 —15 14 34 47 54 43 40 8 3 | —16 Wort Benton <2 xc1a0 ser aecnies sien e~beceel awn aas|lbacceseepmes| aances | aes ee PRS ees Geen eee eee ll | -—2 +0 Wallesof Columbia ac sass aces cee coon 19 10 22 33 36 43 46 47 46 25 22 26 Hort. Vanconvers.chessateoae oes c eee eee 25 19 21 33 40 47 50 43 42 28 3l 26 Paget sounds. 2-2 52555ca-e see e snes 25 20 22 34 35 47 44 43 38 29 27 23 HIGHEST TEMPERATURES IN 1853. MoriienéllingsSccacet serch aeeee ees 56 46 58 67 84 86 85 90 90 73 54 47 Fort Benton... BE ee Ray Peer Ceo Cal Bonn G Meets Goosen poses basis Nserrcl ss6s5— 80 58 60 BictM ary’ Beceem ema cess -ce nee cuyese ste s ee haRDe, ER Beare han aael Sacemre pcre tos --salecisen banca tora Seana - = Cantonment Stevens..........-..--.----| 52 46 |scccce|.secee| da aneal|eoacwel sane nollc sae tomes eee eee DOA sta nen errr Sa a Sh ea 50 56 67 78 94 94 105 97 88 84 59 60 Bort: Vancouver << «cece coe eet ee aD 56 67 74 89 83 91 84 84 82 59 58 Ruget sound. -sck¢ coe aden -e-e eo ao eee) EB 54 62 67 87 85 94 93 83 78 59 60 ROM RUGUING Saran ontes salsesareoanectafeeee|—o Bese) Asano) booose| sce a S85 bee ee eee bss 5 Bort, Ridgeloy’. a 2 ss a 2 ES ‘3 = s EI e q FI E s < = =] Qo 3 I o 3 = ° A 3 3 = i 5 I 3 S 5 ics is) 5 ca A me | = 29.6 | 35.9 30.1 geil 28.0 31.4 28.7 35.6 41.4 * December, 1849, and January and February, 1850, are used at this station as the only existing observations. No. 5—AMOUNT OF WATER FALLING IN RAIN AND SNOW AT FORTS SNELLING AND LARAMIE. Years. January. February. Fort Laramie. JA snore oppececiooed Fort Snelling. Mean for 15 years...... 3 Bg 1 48 = - 2 hy i 2 5 5 5 & cI O 2 7 8 a a ‘ to 8 2 5 Euan eee |p Ser ok) aCe eee ce || eae cannes i s = i} = D 3) ° oD a S = = 2 = < = 5 4 < n 3° za a n n < a SIG |kosaaoloGsen0 0.72 | 0.72 | 8.90 5.98 | 8.84 | 20.72 10.92 | 3.84 | 38.47 3.56 | 1.36 | 30.78 140 METEOROLOGY. No. 5—Continued. AMOUNT OF WATER FALLING IN RAIN AND SNOW AT STATIONS IN THE NORTHWEST. Year. November. December. Summer. January February. March. September. October. Puget Sound. 7 15.97 -66 | 20.70 10.91 | 25.77 30.33 | 15.80 15.13 | 20.65. 52) eeoece| el gtoe 8.92 | 27.45 17.23 | 16.73 13,08 | 19.63 8.71 | 3.29 | 3.75 | 2.89 | 2.13 5.21 Mean... ccccccceccns Dalles of Columbia. 1.14 Beal ese) aecen FE Pe Bee 0.61 | 1.41 | 0.24] 4.90 O19" i SsOL eee 0.95 | 2.18 seeves| (O18 0.69" |' 6.55 | 5.06. 4.15 “3.81 | 1.70 | 1 : ‘| ""3102"| 1.09" BSA eae enonneen sea adeesnee | a2 79) | (O87S Mean....coseesseesees| 3-21 | 1.17 | 0.81 | 1.29 | 0.62 |....../ 0.09 | 0.3] | 0.75 | 0.47 | 2.93) 3.05 | 2.72 | 0.40 Oregon City. 1849... cceeeecceesccecenress 1850.. oe IBSL.. co cccccccccvcceecvces Pond pocos4 soogced | MTN coos 1.96 |'4.58 |°"4.09] "7.70 |'13.57 CHAP THR XV: Plan of Construction and Details of the Roads,—Estimate of Cost.— Use of Wagon road in connexion with Railroad. I will now pass to the plan of construction and the estimate of the cost of the road. The difficult points, those which are obstacles to reaching difficult points, and the portions passing through a rich country, which will at once bring remunerative returns, should be located and attached at once. The rich, remunerative portions, are the country east from the Bois des Sioux and westward to the crossing of the river Jacques; the valley of the Mouse river; much of the country from Fort Benton to the mouth of Milk river ; the region of the Rocky mountains; a portion of the Spokane country ; the greater portion of the Columbia valley ; the region from the Columbia to the sound, and from the sound back, near to the Cascades, and that from Seattle to the Columbia river. The difficult points are the passes of the Rocky and Cascade mountains—the former involving a tunnel, the latter a tunnel by the Snoqualme, or a large quantity of rock-cutting of the Colum- bia; the rock-cutting on Clark’s fork, and the heavy embankments and cutting in the Bitter Root valley towards its junction with Clark’s fork at Horse Plains, and the heavy sustaining walls of the defile ending in Hell Gate. Allusion has already been made toa nearer route from the Bois des Sioux to the favorable passes, by crossing the Missouri and the Yellowstone, as well as to a connexion believed to be practicable through the Black Hills with Council Bluffs. For a route from Council Bluffs to the Columbia valley and Puget sound, the road could be operated on in four sections: 1. Council Bluffs to crossing of Yellowstone. 2. Crossing of Yellowstone to mouth of Snake. 3. Snake river to post on Columbia, and to Puget sotind. 4. Columbia valley, by the line of the Cowlitz, to Puget sound. For a route from the head of navigation of the Mississippi and the Great Lakes, by the Bois des Sioux, the crossing of the Missouri and the Yellowstone, the sections will be: 1. St. Paul and Lake Superior to Little Falls. 2. Little Falls to Bois des Sioux. 3. Bois des Sioux to crossing of Missouri. 4. Crossing of Missouri to crossing of Yellowstone. 5. Crossing of Yellowstone to mouth of Snake river. 6. Snake river to post on Columbia, and to Puget sound by Snoqualme Pass. 7. Columbia valley by the line of the Cowlitz to Puget sound. The route explored by me north of the Missouri will have sections as follows: 1. St. Paul and Lake Superior to Little Falls. 2. Little Falls to Bois des Sioux. 3. Bois des Sioux to vicinity of Fort Union. 4. Fort Union to mouth of Milk river. 5. Mouth of Milk river to the vicinity of the Great Falls of the Missouri. 6. Vicinity of the Great Falls of the Missouri to mouth of Snake river. 142 PLAN OF CONSTRUCTION OF ROAD. 7. Snake river to post on the Columbia, and to Puget sound by the Snoqualme Pass. 8. Columbia valley to Puget sound. When the rail is laid from the mouth of Snake river to the Pend d’Oreille lake, and the rail pushed from the vicinity of the Great Falls of the Missouri to the tunnel of the Rocky mountains, the intermediate portions can be divided into two sections: 1st. From tunnel to Horse Plains. 2d. From Horse Plains to Pend d’Oreille lake, along the navigable waters of Clark’s fork. It is also possible that the section from the Bois des Sioux to the vicinity of Fort Union can be thrown into two sections by a spur-road a little east of the vicinity of Mouse River valley from the Missouri. Thus it will be seen that the route north of the Missouri lends itself to a rapid construction, from the facility with which it can be thrown into sections, the largest being from the vicinity of the Great Falls to the mouth of the Snake, which, deducting the navigable waters of Clark’s fork, will be ——— miles in length. The longest section on the route of the Bois des Sioux, and the crossing of the Missouri and Yellowstone and of the Council Bluffs, will be from the crossing of the Yellowstone to the mouth of the Snake, or about ———— miles. While the final location of the road is being made, all the arrangements can be perfected to operate with great energy simultaneously on the different sections. Suitable steamers should be constructed for the Missouri and Columbia, rails laid at the Cascades and the Dalles to connect the several lines on the Columbia, and spur-roads built where necessary, as at Mouse River valley, at Fort Union, and Fort Benton. F It is probable the Marias may be found navigable a sufficient distance (it is said to be navigable fifty miles) to dispense with the spur-road at Fort Benton; and especially arrangements be made on the upper Mississippi, so that, partly by land and partly by water-carriage, the rails can at once be transported to the Little Falls, and the road go both eastward and westward from the . Mississippl. With these arrangements, all the sections can be operated on simultaneously ; two sections along their whole line, with the section along the Columbia river, and most of that portion of the first section included between St. Paul and Little Falls. In connexion with the construction of the road, and as preliminary thereto, a good wagon road, with substantial bridges across the streams, should be opened throughout the whole length and on the line of the road, except where the route is along navigable waters. Bends which grow cotton-wood might be planted on the sides of the road where fuel is wanting, and water brought in aqueducts from the Coteau du Missouri towards the river Jacques, and from a reservoir at the Grizzly Bear lake towards Milk river, for the supply of laborers and emi- grants. The water, though occurring often, and in sufficient quantities for camping purposes, would have to be transported several miles to portions of the laborers operating on the line, and thus an aqueduct of logs would be the most economical and convenient method of supply. Six hundred and forty acres of wood planted every twenty miles, will, in fifteen years, yield fuel enough for the use of the engines doing a large business on the road. In order to open a communication as rapidly as possible, temporary arrangements may be made for the rail in advance of the permanent structure. It is of great consequence to reach points of supply, as wood, stone, materials for blasting, and to make use of the rails for moving them when they are required. Zigzags, and inclined planes, and detours, may be used over the Rocky and Cascade mountains whilst the tunnels are being completed. Every exertion should be made to give such direction to the work as shall enable the road to build the road. The question of timely preparation of depot buildings is well understood, and needs simply to be mentioned. It is estimated that, allowing two years for reconnaissance, location, and making the necessary arrangements, as constructing spur-roads, establishing the line of steamers, erecting depot build- ings and making the contracts, and actually getting the laborers established on the line of the road, PLAN OF CONSTRUCTION OF ROAD. 143 a first-class road of the broad gauge, with substantial bridges, could be constructed in five years, with the single exception of the tunnel through the Snoqualme Pass, should the long one be adopted, and that for this tunnel an additional year would be required. It will be necessary to wait till the road is located throughout its whole extent before com- mencing operations on the various lines. For the portion east of the Bois des Sioux, with a vig- orous and well-directed party, the road can be located in a portion of one season, and the whole line east of the Mississippi, and some one hundred miles west, be actually finished, and the cars in operation, before the difficult interior sections are well entered on. Rails can be laid at nearly the rate of one mile per day, and the grading and bridge structures over the crossing of the Mississippi at the Little Falls are comparatively easy and unimportant. I am of opinion, that in two years after vigorously commencing operations, a communication can be made between the Columbia valley and Puget sound, and that the rail can be laid from the post on the Columbia to the Pend d’Oreille lake, and a new section, the third year, opened from the Horse Plains; and that the vigorous prosecution of all the sections for three years would enable the cars to be put in motion from the Mississippi to the tunnel of the Rocky mountains, and from the post on the Columbia to some distance beyond Horse Plain. This consideration gives importance to the Jocko route, which is shorter and has less difficult work than the Bitter Root route. Assuming the Jocko route asa basis, the line could be extended the third year, reliable arrangements having been made to throw laborers ahead and accom- modate them on different points, to the crossing of Clark’s fork, by the Jocko route. Thus, allowing two years for locating, in three years a thorough communication could be established, except for the link extending from the Rocky mountain tunnel to the crossing of Clark’s fork, a distance of about one hundred and fifty miles. The wagon road, already adverted to as indispensable along the whole line, should, the third year, be constructed into a first-class stage road, and the fourth year, with the aid of stage- coaches moving one hundred miles a day, (perfectly practicable with good roads, relays of horses every ten miles, and the supplies of forage which the beautiful valleys of the St. Mary’s alone can furnish,) a thorough communication can be established by which passengers from New York can reach the valley of the Columbia in nine and San Francisco in twelve days. In two more years the whole line will be opened for the rail. If a practicable route can be got through the Cascades with the short tunnel, the trunk line to Puget sound will be opened at the same time. If with the long tunnel one year more will be required. It must be observed, as regards these two tunnels, they each can be operated upon in nearly equal sections; and that, as regards time, the principal difference will be the greater length of that shaft of the long tunnel, which must be sunk before the sections are operated on. In estimating the cost of the road, I have, from the Bois des Sioux to the Rocky mountains, added twenty-five per cent. to the cost at eastern prices, and thence to the Pacific forty per cent. This will be an ample allowance for the increased price of labor and of the transportation of supplies. The following details of construction are the basis of the estimate: Tunnels to be made for a double track, and have a cross section of . The gauge of the road to be six feet. The road-bed to be elevated four feet east of the Rocky mountains and three feet west of the mount- ains, and the work in all respects to be of the most substantial character. The weight of rail to be seventy pounds to the yard. The bridging and culverts to be of stone or durable timber. From St. Paul to the Bois des Sioux : This passes essentially through a prairie and well-wooded country, with no expensive bridging or culvert masonry, or heavy excavations and embankments. This portion, making allowance for the broad gauge and increased care in road-beds, will not cost more than existing roads in Illinois and Wisconsin. 144 ESTIMATE OF COST OF ROAD. ESTIMATE. S20’ miles; Bhweseuoper wiles. So Lote oman nO oe os ote wien elope eeemt re ote $6,000,000 From the Bois des Sioux to the crossing of Milk river, a prairie region, the Coteau du Missouri having to be surmounted, and some care in the Milk River valley to guard against freshets, and in providing for culverts and bridges: 72 aulles,, Glee HAO) fol gael ee Beis SSE ein OOO SSIS CaS Sod ace $28,480,000 From the crossing of Milk river to the Snake, (point where the roads down the Columbia and to the Snoqualme Pass fork,) a distance of five hundred and fourteen miles, about one hundred and fifty miles will involve heavy side-cutting, much of it in rock. The remainder will pass over an essentially prairie region, though at times a rolling prairie. This estimate is for the line of Lewis and Clark’s Pass, the Jocko and Clark’s Fork rivers. Even in the mountain and wooded region, from the entrance to the Mountain Pass to the crossing of the Spokane, a distance of three hundred and fifty miles, more than two hundred and fifty miles is along prairie or regular river intervale, and less than one hundred miles is on side-hills. For the difficult work, I estimate 150 miles, at $100,000 per mile .........-..-- $15,000,000 Remaining work, 364 miles, ‘at ‘$45,000 per mile_- ~~... oo ee meee ences 16,380,000 Tunnel at Lewis and Clark’s Pass, (round numbers,) 13,675 feet, at $120 per Vinal fOOb es oc ete note ee ey re eee tere ee eee ea eto eee EE eee 1,650,000 Totalvstes ites aSee eee oe Seth bs ee eae = ARE ee 33,035,000 From the point of forking of the two roads, to Seattle and Snoqualme Pass, the distance is two hundred and forty miles, which may be subdivided as follows: Work comparatively light from the Snake to the vicinity of Lake Kitchelus, and from the Snoqualme Falls to Seattle. Pesles, at $45,000 perme so < 5. oh foc oye 2) face nee eee ee $8,685,000 Intermediate work, excepting line of tunnel, 40 miles, at $100,000 per mile... ... 4,000,000 Short tunnel, 4,000 yards, at $375 per yard (round numbers).......----------- 1,500,000 Long tunnel,.11,840, yards, about. $420 sper ward 02 soe oS eee ie Sel eie 5,000,000 St.Paul togBoisi des Sioux, 24 0:milesh eee ee pee b eee eee eee eee 6,000,000 Boisides) Siousxto) crossing ofelVinlkgniver. glee eS ree ore erat ieee ore 28.480,000 Crossing of Milk river to crossing of Columbia, 706 miles .........-..--------- 41,661,000 Crossing of Columbia to Seattle, on Puget sound, 240 miles........----..-.--- 17,685,000 COST OF SPUR-ROADS, RESERVOIRS, AND STEAMERS ON THE COLUMBIA AND MISSOURI RIVERS. Spartoadmtor St: Bauli..26 26.4 See asi kes eae ei ee eles eee eine eee $250,000 Spur-road. to'Porti Union; audidepots 2. Soc eg bs she o-USSke ek CE ee eee 1,000,000 Reservoirs;aqueducts, and: growth of woods 5.-.6-ls soe eee eee sree 2,000,000 Spur-road to Fort. Benton... sss). 2 stastceweeei ee om eee eee 1,000,000 Ieservoir‘and! aqueducts, Grizzly Bear lakes -js---)\-. secs cee cee eteetate 1,000,C00 Steamers'and depots'on the Missouri\-). 2). =.= 12s ee sere Nee ee eee eeteatatel 2,000,000 Steamersiand :depots-on’ theiColumbiass e226 oe ctees See oe eee eterna ele 1,000,000 8,250,000 DEPOTS AND PERMANENT FIXTURES. Depotat St. Palisa wiceinnn cad tise ce eet Renee store ons Se $200,000 Depot at Little Falls and connexion with Lake Superior. .........-...-------- 150,000 Depot at general: plateauof the Bois des Sioux... 5 = ee ct. s see 150,000 Depotiin the vicinity cL Mort Unions ono. cis vase bee ens snes s+ S525 ote 200,000 EE ESTIMATE OF COST OF ROAD. Depot in the viemiry of Great Walls of Missouri: 7.222... 2-csS2s-cee eee nee Digi in Sig Mle SVE noes coche SouuEccusDggbUaO dona se UbeD bape eneEne Werotmes crassa, of, the Columbia os 26 aI.) Awe.) Shae cee eee cee Depot at Puget sound, with permanent works for a large travel .......-..--.--- Intermediate stations, with equipments for wood and water conduits and connex- Fer emRE AH CUUCEs te foe No an nie am teetamtnciee eadetiaal aia a alata aierarcisieloicid 145 $200,000 50,000 50,000 1,000,000 1,000,000 —_ 3,000,000 A detour by Cadotte’s Pass would increase the distance some two or three miles, and the tunnel about two miles ; the increased cost would be one and a half millions. The line of the Bitter Root would add to the expense as follows : Increased length of line, all in difficult country, seven miles, at $100,000 per mile. The line from the forking of the two routes to Vancouver would cost as follows : From the forking of the routes to the Dalles, 133 miles, at $50,000 per mile. -_ ~~~. From the Dalles to the plain near Vancouver, 90 miles, at $120,000 per mile... . Add for depot buildings at head of navigation of the Columbia, depots looking to a connexion with the Willamette and intermediate depots.......-.-..---.- MMoralucostetOnVian COUVETa oo OmIMIleGs - are r\5, 4. oc.5/5 sna cs ciate =paisicicieie oie aie From the plain, near Vancouver, to Seattle, on Puget sound, 172 miles, at $40,000 ee langle SELES Pee eee ee ee te ee PNAC) A NRE SOG TENE Ole0,01 SEN ec ee EI aE ore es Motale cose. ton seattle: ooo miless an —misjceiae oct c.s.oe © see ee cejec.cicisie.c fn GENERAL RECAPITULATION. $700,000 $6,650,000 10,800,000 250,000 17,700,000 6,880,000 150,000 24,730,000 Cost of road to Seattle by the Snoqualme Pass, using the long tunnel, 1,890 miles . $105,076,000 Cost of road to Seattle by the Columbia valley and the Cowlitz river, 2,045 Wot Ole OAUstONVANCOUNED we Sid Mil Se ar. cic.0 ie ceic. 00003 three sheets, by Mr. John Lambert, topographer of the expedition. 3. Map of the Cascades: scale, gotoo00 3 by Lieutenant J. K. Duncan, U. S. A., under the orders of Captain George B. McClellan, corps of Engineers. 4, Map showing the several barometric profiles, with comparisons of such as come into com- petition. 5. Sketch of the tunnels required on the several lines. The result, therefore, of the year’s exploration, has been to establish the practicability of the northern route ; but it is not believed that the best route has been ascertained; and it is known that only the materials have been collected of a very general estimate of the cost of the road. An approximate estimate can be made by throwing the whole distance into parts, having a com- mon character, referring them to similar roads in the States of which the cost is known; and thereby, by making a proper allowance for the changes of circumstances, as the increased price of labor, and the expense incident to operating on a long line, and in a new country, arrive at the cost of the road. It is important, however, that the field should be extended to embrace all probable routes, that the best route should then be selected, and that detailed instrumental surveys be made, to ascer- tain the cost and determine the best plan of construction. The greatest western development of roads is now in Missouri and Iowa, two roads being under construction in the former, and one in the latter State, extending to their western bounda- ries; and an additional road being projected, and soon to be placed under construction in Iowa, from Rock Island to Council Bluffs, and connecting with the road on which the cars now run from Chicago to Rock Island. Roads are also extending from Chicago and Milwaukie to points on the Mississippi, from Rock Island to St. Paul, and to the Fond du Lac of Lake Superior and Green Bay. An examination of the maps will show that, if the Black Hills are practicable for roads, the Hell Gate passes are in most admirable connexion both with the roads of Missouri and Iowa, say at Council Bluffs, and with the roads from the Great Lakes, moving through Minnesota and centering in the grand plateau of the Bois des Sioux. 158 GENERAL REMARKS. These examinations, therefore, become of great consequence: first, from the Bois des Sioux across the Missouri, through the Black Hills to the general region between the Yellowstone and Missouri, and thence to the best of the Hell Gate passes, (one is known to be practicable for a railroad ;) and second, from the western frontier of Iowa and Missouri, through the Sioux hills, and uniting with the route from the Bois des Sioux and entering the pass together. The Black Hills are not as formidable as they are represented on the map; on the contrary, quite an extensive region examined by Dr. Evans, the geologist of the expedition, south of the Mis- souri and Yellowstone, showed that the region was an elevated prairie ; and information has been received from reliable sources that the country is almost exclusively prairie in a straight line from the Hell Gate passes to Council Bluffs. Lieutenant Mullan writes me from the St. Mary’s valley that this is the opinion of his inter- preter, Gabriel, and that he has received similar information from a trapper who was familiar with the country. Major Ebbels, of San Francisco, a very intelligent gentleman, and who was in the employ of the Fur Company for many years, assures me that the bills are inconsiderable, and would not be an obstacle. From the results of Dr. Evans’ survey, I feel disposed to give much weight to the information thus derived from Lieutenant Mullan and Major Ebbels, and will therefore propose, in the event of the continuance of the survey, that these routes be explored. Should they prove practicable, the northern route to the head of navigation of the Mississippi, and to the Great Lakes, will be abridged about one hundred miles. The whole road, assuming St. Paul and the Fond du Lac of Lake Superior as the starting points, will be between the 45th and 48th degrees of latitude. The distance from Seattle by the Snoqualme Pass, to Fond du Lac, to St. Paul and to Chicago, will be reduced from 1,905, 1,892, 2,215, to 1,805, 1,792, and 2,115 miles, respectively. The route to Council Bluffs, to Chicago, and generally to the roads of Jowa and Missouri, will be reduced some 200 miles on that by the South Pass, and making the distances from Seattle to Council Bluffs and to Chicago 1,670, and 2,128 miles by the Hell Gate passes, and 1,992 and 2,450 miles by the South Pass. So much for the importance of these two examinations coming within the scope of that clause of my instructions authorizing me to despatch the force not required west of the Rocky mountains homeward by new routes. At Fort Benton, if there had been animals to spare, I should have despatched a party to the Platte to examine one of the routes. My attention had been drawn to it before leaving Washington city. Besides which, there should be an exploration of the Snake river and its western tributaries, and of the Rocky mountains, from the South Pass to the 49th parallel, so far as may not be com- pleted by the labors of Lieutenant Mullan. The relations of the Salt Lake settlement with the region north of the Rocky mountains should be thoroughly established. The country should be explored from the Columbia lakes to the waters of San Francisco bay, to determine the best connexion between a road having its terminus in the Columbia valley and Puget sound, and roads having their terminus on the waters of San Francisco bay. It is a question whether this connexion can best be made west of the Cascades from the valley of the Willamette to that of the Sacramento, or east of the Cascades. I will propose an exploration to determine the practicability of connecting, by a railroad, the two great valleys of the Willa- mette and the Sacramento. : The relations of the Great Salt Lake region, both with the waters of San Francisco bay and the Columbia valley, should be ascertained. , I will also recommend, most earnestly, an instrumental survey of the two routes, by the Co- lumbia valley and the Snoqualme Pass, to the sound, of the pass or passes in the Rocky mount- ains giving the best connexion with the Great Lakes and the head of navigation of the Missis- sippi, and the roads now running through Towa and Missouri, of different intermediate parts, and GENERAL REMARKS. 159 of collecting such other information as will test the relative practicability of routes, give the means of making an estimate of the cost, plan of construction, and the time to build the road. In closing this report I will respecttully call the attention of the department to the several accompanying reports, which will be found to present accurately the many routes of the field of exploration. They are all creditable to the writers, and many of them are remarkably able. The reports of Captain McClellan will show with what ability and success the extended explora- tions of the Cascades were conducted, and the great contribution it has afforded to the almost hitherto unknown geography of that region of country. His remarks in commendation of his party have my most hearty concurrence. The topo- graphical report of Mr. John Lambert shows kim to be as successful with the pen as with his instruments. The lucid reports of Lieutenant Donelson present, in the clearest light, the general charac- teristics of his railroad line from Fort Benton to Wallah-Wallah. The extended explorations by Lieutenant Grover, by Lieutenant Mullan, and by Mr. A. W. Tinkham, have given the exploration its greatest value, as they have solved the question of snow for the whole region east of the Cascades, and have made the solution all but certain in the Cas- cades themselves. The labors of Lieutenant Saxton have been of the greatest service to the exploration. The reports of Dr. Suckley and Lieutenant Arnold, and of Lieutenant Macfeely, will show clearly how each occupied his field. In the Indian department I will refer, with admiration, to ite contribution made by Mr. George Gibbs, of Captain McClellan’s party, and to the labors of Lieutenant John Mullan and Mr. Doty. There will be found a valuable report from Mr. F. W. Lander as to the crossing of the Missis- sippi, and the practicability of the pass of the lower Columbia. His practical experience as a railroad engineer and contractor has enabled him to make many excellent suggestions, which I beg leave to acknowledge. I will close this communication by adverting, in terms of the highest commendation, to the ability with which Dr. John Evans has managed the geological portion of the work, and the great contribution he has personally made in collections, and in developing the geography of the country travelled over by him, and to the ability which has been shown by Professor S. F. Baird, in charge of the natural history, assisted by those devoted and promising young naturalists, Dr. George Suckley, assistant surgeon United States army, and Dr. J. G. Cooper. Tam, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory, in Charge of Exploration. Hon. Jerrerson Davis, Secretary of War. Nore.—The additional communications from Governor Stevens, received since this report was submitted, will be found follow- in the papers enumerated above. 160 TOPOGRAPHY OF ROUTE FROM THE MISSISSIPPI TO THE COLUMBIA. GENERAL REPORTS. A. 1. REPoRT OF THE TOPOGRAPHY OF THE ROUTE FROM THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER TO THE COLUM- BIA, BY JOHN LAMBERT, OF THE EXPLORATION. Wasuineton, D. C., June 1, 1854. Sir: In obedience to your instructions, I submit a short topographical review of the regions lying between the Mississippi and Columbia rivers, and generally between the 46th and 49th parallels of north latitude, as developed by the several exploring parties attached to your expedition. Within the limits stated there appear to be three grand divisions, having boundaries and gen- eral characteristics as distinct and peculiar as can be conceived. The vast prairies extending from the Mississippi to the base of the Rocky mountains form the first division, lying approx- imately between the 94th, 112th, and 113th degrees of west longitude. The second, or mountain division, embraces nearly five degrees of longitude, and is comprised between the great prairies which characterize the valley. of the Missouri and the barren plains of the Columbia, and, from the formidable obstacles which it everywhere presents to communication, and in connexion with the objects of the expedition, may be considered of more immediate importance than the others. The third great division comprises the immense plains of Columbia river, already mentioned, which become directly interesting from the uncertainty of their exact character, arising from the various reports of travellers and exploring parties. Observing this arrangement, I will endeavor to give a general description of each of these great divisions, embracing as much minutiz as the time at my disposal and the nature of a pre- liminary and simply topographical report will admit. In the course of my remarks, the main route of the expedition will furnish referring points while considering particular localities, and the distances occasionally stated will be air-lines, rather than the actual measurements obtained on the ground. That part of the first division lying between the Mississippi and Shayenne rivers has been made so well known already by the labors of eminent travellers, that it seems unnecessary to do more than take a passing glance, concurring with the admirable descriptions already extant, and still fresh in the public mind. Undulating and level prairies, skirted with woods of various growth, and clothed everywhere with a rich verdure, frequent and rapid streams, with innu- merable small but limpid lakes, frequented by multitudes of water-fowl, most conspicuous among which appears the stately swan: these, in ever-recurring succession, make up the panorama of this extensive district, which may be said to be everywhere fertile, beautiful, and inviting. The most remarkable features of this region are the intervals of level prairie, especially that near the bend of Red river, where the horizon is as unbroken as that of a calm sea. Nor are other points of resemblance wanting: the long grass, which in such places is unusually rank, bending grace- fully to the passing breeze as it sweeps along the plain, gives the idea of waves, (as indeed they are such;) and the solitary horseman on the horizon is so indistinctly seen as to complete the picture by the suggestion of a sail, raising the first feeling of novelty to a character of wonder and delight. The flowing outlines of the rolling prairies are broken only by the small lakes and patches of timber which relieve them of monotony and enhance their beauty ; and though marshes and sloughs occur, they are of too small extent and too infrequent to affect the generally attractive character of the country. The elevation of the rolling prairies is generally so uniform, that even the summits between streams flowing in opposite directions exhibit no peculiar features to distin- guish them from the ordinary character of the valley slopes. i TOPOGRAPHY OF ROUTE FROM THE MISSISSIPRI TO THE COLUMBIA. 161 The country near the Shayenne as it flows southward assumes a bolder character: the swelling surface takes the forms of terraces and ridges; ponds and marshes occur more fre- quently ; timber disappears from the uplands; the prairie becomes gravelly and abounds in granite boulders; and the river itself, moderately fringed with wood of different kinds, flows through a deep intervale enclosed by sand and clay bluffs from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet and more of elevation, which are again surmounted by occasional hills sufficiently conspicuous to serve as landmarks to the hunters, and associated with thrilling reminiscences of Indian story. Leaving the Shayenne, the prairie for a considerable space shows no material change; a salty efflorescence appears in spots, betokening our vicinity to Miniwakan lake, the meridian of which may be generally considered as the limit of previously authorized explorations north of the Missouri, and also of the region of the more fertile prairies, the pretty wooded Lake ‘Jessie being the last well-known object on the route pursued by the expedition. From this point westward, and a little north of west for more than forty miles, to where the route strikes the Jacques or James river near its source, the country presents the same alternation of rolling prairie, flat intervals, marshy pools and small lakes, some of which have timber, with blufly banks ; the greater number bare, with a level shore-line. The Jacques river flows from this point southeast almost parallel to the course of the Shayenne, embracing with that river the summit which, in this region, divides the waters flowing to the Red river and the Missouri. This sum- mit ridge, rising abruptly from the Shayenne, attains its greatest altitude in successive terraces; the slope is more uniform towards the Jacques, which flows between low banks, and for a long distance without timber. The ridge terminates towards Dead Colt Hillock, where it merges in the level sweep of prairie extending from the Bois des Sioux; farther south, on the head- waters of Wild Rice river; rises the head of the Coteau des Prairies, leaving an interval which at once strikes the eye of an engineer as the natural roadway through this great labyrinth of rivers, the only obstruction being the easy crossing of the Jacques. The main route, about thirty-five miles from the point last mentioned, and in the same general course, crosses the Shayenne for the third time; here this river flows in a northeast course, making a long circuit before it bends to the south, and receiving a considerable tributary from the north- west, as reported by the guide. It presents at this point the same character of intervale and steep bluffs, but less water, and no timber. Five miles farther rises the Butte de Morale, one of the ordinary prairie hills, so named to commemorate some incident of the hunting ground or the war path. From the top of this hillthe aspect of the country grows wilder and more hilly, in other respects maintaining the same general character. It will serve somewhat further to indicate the topography of this section to state that, from Lake Jessie to Mouse river, a distance of about one hundred and twenty-five miles, timber was only once met with in the ravines of some hills surrounding a small lake about midway between the Shayenne and Mouse rivers; an abundant substitute for firewood, however, is found in the dried buffalo chips—still more elegantly called the ‘‘ bois de vache”—which makes it unnecessary for travellers and hunters to leave their direct course for the small wooded lakes. From this point also is seen the coteau of the Missouri looming prominently on the horizon, and marking the limit of the more open prairie. Keeping a north- west direction, the coteau culminates, so to speak, in the Dog House hill, the most conspicuous object on the plateau; still, in the same course, it bounds the narrow valley of Mouse river, which presents a similar but not so bold a formation on the other side, the width of the valley as far as seen being less than twenty miles. The direction and appearance of the coteau at once destroy the supposition of any. waters of Mouse river rising within a mile of the Missouri, as pre- viously reported, and so represented on the most authentic maps. Wintering river is the only branch of Mouse river crossed by the route of the expedition, and is more of a slough than a river—the stream being hardly perceptible through the pools created by the track of the buffalo. No fact of this kind was reported by the guides, and Wintering river was actually headed by one of aif 162 TOPOGRAPHY OF ROUTE FROM THE MISSISSIPPI TO THE COLUMBIA. the small detached parties, though without having this circumstance especially in view; and it is impossible to suppose that such an insignificant water-course should have a length and volume necessary to penetrate the formidable plateau of the Missouri. This misconception is stated at length to show the uncertain character of information supplied by guides, who, however well acquainted with the country in which they hunt and live, are rarely capable of expressing themselves with reference to any subject foreign to their own pursuits, besides being always liable to be misunderstood from the confusion of tongues which is usually heard on the outskirts of civilization. It is but justice here to say that a signal exception to these remarks was ever presented in the intelligent and exact description of our French guide, Mr. La Bombard, who accompanied the main train to Fort Benton. Mouse river presents a new river character in the deep and ramified coulées which intersect the valley in every direction, in other respects closely resembling the Shayenne, having a narrow but dense fringe of oak, ash, maple, and other timber, filling the intervale, and extending some way up the intricate coulées ; in some of which are found small streams in sandy beds, and massive sandstone rocks. Many of them reach to the edge of the Missouri plateau, which is here well defined ; and in the examination for a good passage for the wagon train, secluded spots were found where beetling crag and winding stream, venerable trees and greenest sward, combined in scenes of much picturesque beauty. The main route strikes Mouse river at its most southerly bend, about one hundred and twenty- five miles from Lake Jessie, from which point the river turns abruptly northward towards its confluence with the Assiniboin. In the same general course of northwest the route runs nearly parallel to the course of Mouse river, heading the coulées for thirty miles, when the river is found coming down from the north, being joined at this turning point by the Riviére des Lacs, which flows southeast from the most northern edge of the great plateau, of which it may be assumed asa boundary. From Dog House hill to the junction of the Riviére des Lacs the coteau decreases in elevation, until blended insensibly with the rolling prairies rising from that river. On the approach to these high prairies from the more open country the swelling outline assumes the appearance of a distant coast, which seems to rise in a direction parallel to the route of the traveller, and suggests the idea of a plateau or bench of table-land beyond; hence the use of the word ‘‘coteau.”’ But this appearance has proved so frequently deceptive with reference to the extent of tracts exhibiting it, that only a thorough exploration can be relied upon: thus the preliminary sketches in the neighborhood of Fort Union represented this phantom coteau running in whatever direction the line of examination was conducted; so that it will be only when all the detached surveys are combined that the exact extent of these plateaux can be determined. The plateau between Missouri and Mouse rivers cannot be called simply a rolling prairie, though in detailresembling the hilly prairies noticed, but in a very exaggerated degree: a general similarity of outlines; the absence of wood and rocks in place; boulders plentiful; ponds and marshes if possible more frequent; but the elevations so much greater as to be almost considered mountainous, and becoming still more rugged on the approach to Fort Union, where it ends abruptly on the level intervale of the Missouri. It is intersected by numerous water-courses, which run dry in summer, showing the same character of sandy and clayey soil in the bottoms, which is also seen in the rain-worn sections of the most elevated points. The principal of these is the White Earth river, its character being partly indicated by its name, heading in several marshy lakes within the limits of the plateau, and flowing in a winding southerly course to the Missouri about fifty miles east of Fort Union. Vegetation is generally scanty on this plateau; grass is rank in the bottoms, but mostly thin and inferior for grazing; the prickly pear, the most common kind of cactus, begins to appear; and the wild turnip is found in comparative abundance, being the only useful production, and probably the only vegetable food of the wandering Indians, by whom it is regularly gathered. ; North of the plateau an admirable reconnaissance by Mr. Lander develops a low, marshy TOPOGRAPHY OF ROUTE FROM THE MISSISSIPPI TO THE COLUMBIA. 163 prairie, extending with little variation of surface to the head of Mouse river, beyond the forty- ninth parallel; returning from which river to Fort Union, the plateau is found declining to a wide valley or coulée, connecting almost directly with the Missouri in a southwest direction, offer- ing a good chance to twrn the coteau in an engineering view, and becoming thus another im- portant key point on the railroad route. From the Shayenne to Fort Union a great many particulars are necessarily passed over, as a detailed notice of them would stretch to tediousness: the number of small ponds and marshes (the nurseries of myriads of frozs which positively rise in shoals when intruded upon) are almost beyond counting, and could not possibly be represented on a general map; salt marshes and salt-water lakes occur irregularly; around some of the small lakes the air is impregnate with the offensive exhalations from their waters; and, in one instance, a narrow neck but a few yards wide separates a lake of purest fresh water from another which is intensely salt. Further notice of such facts belongs more properly to the province of the mineralogist, and need not be extended in a topographical sketch. The Missouri from the Yellowstone to Milk river is a wide and turgid stream, with an ever- shitting channel choked with sand-bars, which are influenced by every storm; its great volume of water, however, insuring a navigable channel on one side or other. It flows with a very sinuous course through an intervale of variable width, enclosed by the tall bluffs of the plateaux on either side, which sometimes project upon the bank, in some places leaving an intervale of five or six miles; it is generally deeply fringed with the cotton-wood and its congeners, and occasionally a dense underbrush, affording a secure haunt to the fierce grizzly bear; good grazing occurs in spots, but is generally better among the bluffs and coulées than on the plain, where the soil is mostly hard and dusty, affording, it might be supposed, but a scanty sustenance even to the swarms of grasshoppers, which in certain conditions of the atmosphere take wing, and are seen drifting in a darkening cloud for hours before the wind. The bluffs are composed mainly of a soft, half- formed sandstone, which crumbles under a slight pressure, and is washed by the rains into the most fantastic shapes, resembling fortifications and ordinary buildings; one of these near the con- fluence of Big Muddy river is well known as the “Cottage Rock.” The sandstone, or rather sand-rock, as it washes away, discovers petrifactions and lignites of a large size, and is sometimes heard falling in large masses with a dull, muffled sound. These are the “ Mauvaises Terres,” or Bad Lands of the hunters, which occur at irregular intervals all along the Missouri, and many of its tributaries, and in some places are of great extent. The columnar and grotesque forms which are seen in great numbers in such places, are probably owing to the unequal induration or cohesion of what was the upper stratum of a vast alluvial deposit; the softer parts yielding quickly to the ‘‘scooping action of denudation,” while the harder portion of the sand-rock became so many fixed points—foundations, as it were—for the formation of a column, the structure commencing at the top. A better idea of their appearance cannot be furnished than by giving an extract from a most effective description by Dr. Evans, in Owen’s Geological Survey: * “To the surrounding country, however, the Mauvaises Terres present the most striking contrast. From the uniform, monotonous open prairie, the traveller suddenly descends one or two hundred feet, into a valley that looks as if it sunk away from the surrounding world, leaving standing all over it thousands of abrupt, irregular, prismatic and columnar masses, frequently capped with irregular pyramids, and stretching up to a height of from one to two hundred feet or more. So thickly are these natural towers studded over the surface of this extraordinary region, that the traveller threads his way through deep, confined labyrinthine passages, not unlike the narrow, irregular streets and lanes of some quaint old town of the European continent. Viewed in the distance, indeed, these rocky piles, in their endless succession, assume the appearance of massive artificial structures, decked out with all the accessories of buttress and turret, arched doorway, and clustered shaft, pinnacle, and finial and tapering spire. One might almost imagine oneself * Report of a Geological Survey of Wisconsin, Iowa, and Minnesota, by D. D. Owen, page 197. 164 TOPOGRAPHY OF ROUTB FROM THE MISSISSIPPI TO THE COLUMBIA. approaching some magnificent city of the dead, where the labor and genius of forgotten nations had left behind them a multitude of monuments of art and skill. “On descending from the heights, however, and inspecting in detail its deep intricate recesses, the realities of the scene soon dissipate the illusions of the distance. The castellated forms which fancy had conjured up have vanished, and around one on every side is bleak and barren desola- tion. Then, too, if the exploration is made in midsummer, the scorching rays of the sun, pour- ing down in the hundred defiles that conduct the wayfarer through this pathless waste, are reflected back from the white or ash-colored walls that rise around, unmitigated by a breath of air or the shelter of a solitary shrub. “The drooping spirits of the scorched geologist are not, however, permitted to flag. The fossil treasures of the way well repay its dullness and fatigue.” The scientific explorer finds inexhaustible sources of interesting speculation, even in the midst of these desolate wastes. But the curiosity of the mere tourist is soon sated in such arid and gloomy wilds; he hastens to find again some grassy oasis and umbrageous shade, and remembers the Mauvaises Terres as a very skeleton of nature, or the wreck of an embryonic world. The character of the Missouri, and its facilities for navigation, will be fully developed, from the States to the Falls, by the surveys of Lieutenants Donelson and Grover. The streams flowing into the Missouri between Fort Union and Milk river are Little Muddy river, a small stream with clay banks and clay and pebbly bottom, with underbrush in a few places; it has a few branches heading in marshes, and mostly dry in summer. Next, Big Muddy, or Martha’s river, a large sluggish stream in a soft clay bed, which keeps the water always discolored and thick; it flows in a deeper valley than the others, and is everywhere difficult to cross; it has no timber or underbrush except near the Missouri, and flows from side to side of its narrow valley, making a series of regular and similar figures. Next, Poplar river, a rapid stream over a sandy and pebbly bottom; it is pretty well fringed with poplar and cotton-wood, and has a similar regularly sinuous course. Next, Porcupine river, in a sandy bed, and not much water—scattered trees and underbrush near the Missouri. There are other smaller water-courses, dry in summer. All these streams head in the small lakes and marshes of the plateau, flowing nearly in right angles to the Missouri. They have no great length of course, or anything calling for particular notice, except that the deep valleys which they have scooped through the plateau oppose serious obstructions to a direct line of travel, and make it necessary, or at least advisable, to keep along the Missouri bottom. Milk river joins the Missouri one hundred and five miles due west of Fort Union. Its direction up stream is northwest for fifty-five miles, where it is joined by a considerable branch from the north, which, like the main river, is fringed with cotton-wood ; thence generally due west, for one hundred and twenty-five miles; and again northwest, from one hundred to one hundred and fifty miles, to its sources in the great prairies. It will be remembered that the distances stated would probably be trebled by the sinuosities of the river, and are even less than the straightest lines that could be drawn through the interval; the object being to present only a general view of the most important features. Milk river—so named from the extraordinary whiteness of its water, which is thick with chalky solution and fine sand—may be considered a miniature of the Mis- souri, resembling it in most particulars, and differing only in magnitude and one other point, namely, that through more than its upper half the river-bed is apparently dry, the water per- colating through the quicksands, which are of considerable depth, and occasionally forming deep pools where water can always be procured. The running stream is seen again in the little branches from the Three Buttes, and probably in other sources. A branch is supposed to head in a considerable salt lake, called Pakokee, between the Three Buttes and Cypress mountain; but this is not satisfactorily established. At the last turning point mentioned, it is joined by a small fork, coming from the southwest about thirty miles, and heading in coulées within thirty miles (in - TOPOGRAPHY OF ROUTE FROM THE MISSISSIPPI TO THE COLUMBIA. 165 the same course) of the junction of the Marias and Missouri rivers. In the space embraced by the Missouri and Milk rivers are two distinct groups of mountains, the first that are seen on the route—the Bear’s Paw group filling the western end of the enclosed section; the Little Rocky mountains occupying the centre, besides groups of prairie hills. ‘These mountains abound in varieties of pine timber, and practical roadways are reported; but Milk river, from its unex- pected directness from its mouth to the turning-point north of Bear’s Paw mountains, and from its firm and level though narrow intervale, is emphatically the natural highway westward through this section of the prairies. ‘The mountains it embraces, with the Missouri, will be fully developed by the explorations of Dr. Evans and Lieut. Grover, reports of which have not yet been received. From the route on the fork of the Milk river, along the western base of the Bear’s Paw mount- ains, an isolated mountain group (the Three Buttes, already mentioned) is seen distinctly for several days, to the northwest, at a distance of seventy miles, as ascertained by the intersection of frequent compass observations from the line of the odometer survey. The position of every prominent hill was accurately fixed in this manner, and served to give greater precision to the several lines of exploration which passed them with estimated distances. On approaching the mountains, it is surprising how clearly the most distant objects can be distinguished. The atmo- sphere becomes so transparent, that it is only the curvature of the earth’s surface that limits the view from the highest points; the crevices and minute features of distant hills appear so well defined, that all previous ideas of distance are disturbed; and amusing mistakes are made by par- ties intent on exploring some interesting feature, apparently only a few miles off, but which, when tried, turns out to be a fair day’s journey. The Three Buttes are well wooded with pine, and watered by small streams flowing to the different rivers of the prairies. Their greatest altitude above the plain is about three thousand three hundred feet; and from the summit the view is highly illustrative of the surrounding country, embracing every prominent object within a hundred miles. On the north, about ninety miles, stands Cypress mountain, far over the 49th parallel; on the east and northeast, the inter- minable prairies; on the southeast, the Bear’s Paw mountains; on the south, the various detached groups of mountains beyond the Missouri; and on the west, about ninety miles, is seen the dividing ridge of the Rocky mountains, which is itself the boundary of the prairies in this direc- tion, having none of the broken spurs which present an easier access farther south. The inter- vening regions present but few objects to arrest the eye; they are intersected by the various rivers and their branches, which are hidden, even with their timber, in the deep intervales common to them all. It may suffice to say that there are probably few other places in the world where twenty thousand square miles can be embraced in the view from a single point. Marias river is the first of the prairie streams having its sources at the base of the mountains. Its general course is southeast by east, and its length about one hundred and thirty miles. It resembles the Missouri in its character of intervale and tall steep bluffs, which, with its fringe of cotton-wood, disappears altogether near its sources. Within a mile of its mouth it receives the Teton or Tansey river, a smaller stream of similar character, rising also at the base of the mountains. These rivers appear to have worn quite down through the soft formations of the prairies, and flow in clear and rapid streams on the underlying indurated strata. Marias river is reported by competent judges to be capable of improvement, so as to be navigable by light steamers for fifty miles of its length. From the crossing of Marias river near its mouth to Fort Benton, it is about eleven or twelve miles, southwest. About half that way the Teton and Missouri flow so near each other that the traveller perceives their waters from the dividing bluff, apparently not more than one hundred yards apart, but really much more, of course. About fifiy miles more, in the same course from Fort Benton, reaches Sun river, eight or nine miles from its mouth. This distance is through the high prairie between the Missouri and Teton, presenting the usual plateau character of bluffs and coulées, and containing the most considerable field of prickly pear that was seen; some dog vil- 166 TOPOGRAPHY OF ROUTE FROM THE MISSISSIPPI TO THE COLUMBIA. lages, and one or two small lakes. Medicine or Sun river forms a boundary between the mount- ains and the prairies, and exhibits a mixed character of bluffy intervale, open valley, and mount- ain rapid; having an easterly course about eighty miles in length, and joining the Missouri above the Great Falls. It rises in a few small branches, where the dividing ridge of the Rocky mount- ains begins to break down into spurs and valleys towards the Missouri; and when the traveller has crossed this river, he perceives that he is quitting the great prairies and entering the mountain region. Of the twelve hundred miles travelled distance from St. Paul of prairie country between the upper Mississippi and the Rocky mountains examined by the several parties of the expedition, the finest section is that from the Mississippi to the Shayenne, embracing some of the rivers on the western slope of the Mississippi basin, as the Sauk, the Watab, Little Falls creek, &c., and the summits between these waters and the various affluents of the Red river, the Minnesota or St. Peter’s river, and the Missouri. The greater part of this section, as noticed in the commence- ment of this report, is considered by parties of approved experience to resemble the most favored districts of Ohio and Wisconsin; and there can be no question of its great capacity and resources, even while confining the examination to its surface only. Towards the Missouri plateau, and northwards over Mouse river to the Assiniboin, the country is comparatively of inferior character, though abounding, probably, in greater quantity and variety of game; which, with its red hunters, is ever found retiring before the pioneers of the white man’s progress. From Fort Union westward the aspect of the country is almost uniformly wild and barren; and this, not because the country becomes so much more inferior, as for reasons referable to uniformity of elevation and dryness of the climate, which apply more or less to all the great plains north and south between the Mississippi and the Rocky mountains. The great mountain ranges near either coast of the continent exclude the fertilizing ocean vapors from the far interior; and even the slight degree of moisture which the waters of the high prairies afford to the atmosphere is floated off to the mountains before it is precipitated in rain; hence, proba- bly, the total absence of timber, except in the river bottoms, and the thinness of the grass, which, as well as the earth itself, in early summer becomes parched and browned under cloudless skies and scorching suns. Along with such general reasons must be mentioned the more particular one, of the frequent prairie fires which mark the tracks of Indian tribes and half-breed hunters. The prairie is often fired as a signal to distant parties, and not unfrequently for very trifling purposes; and, if left unquenched, will sweep over the country until stopped by a river, and leave an appearance of utter desolation. The eye grows weary travelling over the naked outlines of the successive plateaux, which, divided and bounded by the various rivers noticed, form but subdivisions of the great tract of country stretching from Missouri and Milk rivers on the south, to the Saskachawan on the north—this tract itself but a subdivision of the Great Plains—an extent embracing every variety of surface, from large and level plains to abrupt bluffs and ranges of summit hills that might be considered mountains. It is difficult to convey an adequate idea of the immensity of these dreary solitudes. Let it be remembered that a few minutes’ reading embraces sections which require tedious weeks to traverse; and that even travelling over and observing them with the patient labor of months, leaves but a feeling of their vastness, which bafHles the effort to express it. The impressive silence of succeeding days is broken at rare intervals by the crack of some stray hunter’s rifle, or perchance by the yell of painted warriors on a foray ; but when the twilight wanes over the peaceful camp, when the evening meal is over, and the incidents of the march are recounted, then the “drowsy ear of night” is roused to listen to the prolonged and melancholy cry of prowling wolves. The verdure of these regions, though growing thinner and comparatively inferior as we go westward, never entirely disappears anywhere, if the faces of the steep bluffs upon the rivers be excepted ; artemisia and small cacti are occasionally met with, but not in great quantities, and TOPOGRAPHY OF ROUTE FROM THE MISSISSIPPI TO THE COLUMBIA. 167 even where they do appear, not exclusively monopolizing the soil; and though the wild aspect and dull colors of the landscape in many and extensive sections might induce a supposition of barrenness, the idea must be greatly qualified, if not removed, by the fact that all these regions are the pasture-grounds of frequent herds of various kinds of deer, particularly of the graceful antelope, with quantities of inferior game and species of vermin, and, last and greatest, the unfailing millions of the uncouth and ponderous buffalo. On the approach to Fort Benton from the Bear’s Paw mountains, the Highwood, Girdle, and other mountain groups south of the Missouri, appear and are passed in succession, exciting the traveller’s attention as they stand with reference to the great Rocky range, like the preface of a new and interesting book; they all abound in pine, cedar, &c., and are watered by numerous small streams, which fertilize the extensive prairie valleys between the mountains, affording good pasture for the game of the country, and large bands of Indian horses. The highest peaks have an immediate altitude of about 1,800 feet, apparently, and the sight of their blue summits makes a welcome relief to the monotony of the prairies. Soon the cloudy heights of the Rocky mountains come dimly into view, towering in mid air, and rousing all hearts and nerving every arm for the things that, in anticipation, are to be attempted and endured; a few days of recruiting, con- sultation and arrangement at Fort Benton, and the convenient wagons are reluctantly relinquished ; every kind of weight that can be dispensed with is set aside; packs are carefully balanced ; exploring parties are arranged for the various routes; long farewells are exchanged, and once more the several parties press forward to their most serious task. The character of the mountain approaches is as various as the number of passes that have been explored. From the sources of Medicine river to the 49th parallel, a distance of over 100 miles, the dividing ridge rises so abruptly from the great plains as to present everywhere the appear- ance of being totally inaccessible, though it is not unlikely that a small determined party might scramble through, or over it, at any given point. As seen from the Blackfoot trail, the eastern front of the ridge rises with a slope too steep to allow the accumulation of soil, and their naked, frowning peaks seem to be conscious of their forbidding greatness, and to threaten destruction to the adventurous traveller. In this extent but one practicable horse-trail is known—that called Marias Pass, at the head of the same named river—and is of such a difficult and even dangerous character, that it is but rarely used; the Indians preferring to cross the mountains by a long detour to the south. The relations between the tribes on either side may possibly also affect the choice of way. The next is an easy pass on the head of Medicine river, believed to have been used by Lewis and Clark; it is of easy access from the prairies, and maintains the preference first given to it for the railroad route. The next, again, is on the south fork of Dearborn river, known as Cadoite’s Pass, on the Blackfoot trail, and is, probably, the most difficult of the prac- ticable road-ways, both on the approach and in the pass itself; it was used by the main train of the expedition, and will be the subject of further notice in this report. Not many-miles farther south are two good passes between the forks of Hell Gate river and small streams flowing to the Missouri; they are reported as highly favorable for wagon-roads, and are, one or both, no doubt, the ‘grand defile” of the older maps. A sixth pass, called the ‘‘ Big Hole Mountain,” on Wisdom fork of Missouri, and at the head of the St. Mary’s valley, was examined and reported upon favorably in time for the preliminary report. At a slight expense it can be made practi- cable for wagons, and will give a good connexion between the northern and central emigrant routes. Other passes were explored by the winter parties; so that a thorough account of the mountain passes may be looked for from Fort Hall to the 49th parallel. Although the mountains will, of course, be made more fully known when the surveys are brought to a close, enough, however, is known from the surveys received to give a good general idea of the configuration of the mountain country between the 46th and 49th parallels. The dividing ridge from the 49th parallel, approximate longitude about 113° 30’, runs ina general course of south-southeast about 180 miles, to the passes mentioned at the head of Hell 168 TOPOGRAPHY OF ROUTE FROM THE MISSISSIPPI TO THE COLUMBIA. Gate river, where the first small branch or spur-ranges extend in a broken, irregular manner, towards the bend of the Missouri, where this river comes down from the south and turns east- ward, about forty miles above the Great Falls; thence, the ridge sweeps round to the southwest to the Big Hole Mountain pass, some thirty miles south of the 46th parallel, in longitude about 114°, an air-line distance of near 130 miles. From near this point a great branch-range occurs, running northwest about 150 miles or more to the Coeur d’Alene country, and dividing the waters of the Bitter Root river from those of the Snake, or Lewis’s fork. This arrangement of the great summit ranges is something like the letter U, or the form of the ancient lyre, with the open end to the northwest, in which direction the main channel of Clark’s fork tends, until it meets the Columbia coming from the north, almost exactly on the 49th parallel. Including the spurs depend- ing from the arms of the figure indicated, there is a general breadth of over 200 miles of mount- ain country, or about four and a half degrees of longitude. Towards the centre of this great fea- ture, the streams flow from all sides like the radii of a circle—the Flathead river, and smaller streams, from the north; the Blackfoot fork and Hell Gate river from the east; the Bitter Root from the south, and the Lou-Lou fork and a small river, leading to a pass in the Coeur d’ Alene mountains, from the west; the latter flowing in a parallel but opposite direction to the main chan- nel, which receives them all. With the exception of certain valleys and prairies to be mentioned, the whole mountain country is thickly covered with pine forest; cotton-wood and some other kinds appearing occasionally on the islands and banks of the rivers, which generally flow in deep and narrow valleys. The mountains are embellished by lakes of various extent; some too small to show on a general map; others, as the Flathead and Pend d’Oreille lakes, of considerable size, are studded with small islands, and, hemmed in as they are by tall mountains on every side, they present scenery of much wild beauty and magnificence. These two lakes have been sketched with tolerable accuracy. Other lakes have been reported, but have not hitherto been visited by the parties of the exploration. All the waters of the mountains abound in fish, par- ticularly salmon and salmon-trout, and are frequented by varieties of water-fowl, as swans, geese, ducks, &c. The mountains also embrace numerous level, or comparatively level, and open prairies of various extent, which afford fine pasture for the Indian cattle, and are most welcome halting and recruiting places for the flagging energies of mer and horses, when exhausted by mountain travel. But the fine valleys, enclosed by the great ranges, are the most important of the topographical featuies ; the principal is that of the St. Mary’s or Bitter Root river, tending north by east from the sources of the river, near the Big Hole mountain, between seventy and eighty miles to near the confluence of this river with the Hell Gate and Blackfoot forks. It has a level, open bottom, from four to seven or eight miles wide, through which the river flows in a gently winding course, fringed with cotton-wood and pine. On the west side the mountains rise sharply from the general level to a height of certainly not less than two thousand five hundred feet along the whole length of the valley, heavily timbered and crowned with rugged peaks of naked rock; on the east side, however, the slopes are gradual and very free from timber, having grass growing almost to the summits. The area of this valley has been variously estimated. Captain Clark* says: ** The valley is from ten to fifteen miles in width, tolerably level, and par- tially covered with the long-leafed and the pitch pine, with some cotton-wood, birch, and sweet willow on the borders of the streams. Among the herbage are two species of clover: one the white clover, common to the western parts of the United States; the other much smaller, both in its leaf and blossom, than either the red or white clover, and particularly relished by the horses.” “The valley became more beautiful as we proceeded, and was diversified by a number of small open plains abounding with grass and a variety of sweet-scented plants, and watered by numer- ous streams, which rush from the western mountains with considerable velocity.” This valley is the favorite winter resort of some of the Selish or Flathead tribes, on account of the pasture which it always affords their bands of cattle. Most of the soil is said to be capable of culti- * Lewis and Clark’s Travels. TOPOGRAPHY OF ROUTE FROM THE MISSISSIPPI TO THE COLUMBIA. 169 vation, and altogether it seems but to require the advent of the white man to make it a place of considerable importance. The country also around the Flathead lake is reported to be well adapted for settlements, having extensive open prairies and numerous streams. From the con- fluence of the Bitter Root and Hell Gate rivers to that of the Bitter Root and Flathead rivers, the valley is of a rugged and difficult character. The mountains close upon the river, forming an intricate and formidable canon for some ten or twelve miles above the junction, the course of the river being extremely sinuous. The formation of the country, however, affords the chances of more than one favorable detour. With reference to this section of the main river, a glance at the map will save the necessity of detailed description here, and which, no doubt, will be found in the reports of the engineers. Thence the valley of Clark’s fork is densely timbered along to Pend d’Oreille lake, with the exception of a few prairie spots; with but little level intervale, the mountains sloping steeply towards the river, and abounding in wild, romantic scenery, especially where the river widens considerably, embracing numerous islands, with their growth of cotton- wood. For the sake of the geography alone, it is to be regretted that none of the exploring par- ties visited the country directly north of Clark’s fork and Pend d’Oreille lake. The Hudson’s Bay people report a large and beautiful sheet of water called by them Lake Rootham, and surrounded by a wild belt of excellent country. (See a subsequent report from Lieutenant Mallan, of his exploration of Kootenaies river, exhibiting a highly diversified country, with the usual character- istics of the whole mountzin section.) The spurs of the Bitter Root and Coeur d’Alene mountains, depending from the southwest side of the great mountain feature, are but little known: only one party went through from the head of the St. Mary’s or Bitter Root valley to the western plains; but this line of reconnaissance was so far from the general operations, that a considerable region on that side remains to be explored. (The subsequent ex plorations of this region leave but little to be said. The accounts of Lieut. Mullan, Mr. Tinkham, and Lieut. Macfeely, with the older explorations of Lewis and Clark, con- cur in proclaiming the wild and inhospitable character ofthe whole western district. Lieut. Mullan was the most fortunate, having found, he believes, a practicable railroad and wagon route through the Coeur d’Alene mountains.—See the several reports.) One of the most singular results of the survey of the dividing ridge by the numerous passes is, that the barometer, wherever used, shows a marked difference of elevation between the slopes on either side, amounting to as much as five or six hundred feet, that being the difference of the observations taken at the heads of the streams rising on both sides at the very base of the ridge. Partial information led to the belief that these differences were all one way, so that the general base on which the mountains rest was supposed to have just so much greater elevation than any corresponding part of the eastern slope; but this has not proved to be the case: in Cadotte’s or the Blackfoot Pass, the western is the higher side; in Clark’s Pass, the eastern ; the eastern also in Marias Pass; varying in the same way, it may be supposed, in the other passes where alti- tudes were not obtained. ‘ From the data of such a rapid survey it is not possible, nor will it be considered necessary, to ascertain the precise arrangement of the smaller branches of the mountains on that principle of order which is known to obtain, even in the fantastic outlines of mountains and rivers. The extensive explorations of Mr. Tinkham, civil engineer, and Lieutenant Mullan, United States army, from the basis of the odometer survey, have developed the leading features with reliable accuracy, as they have been feebly indicated in this report. In accordance with the general view here attempted, it will perhaps be sufficient to observe that, although the whole region is generally pretty closely packed with mountains, still the available country in the valleys and prairies can be reckoned—it is not too much to say—by thousands of square miles, requiring only roads—the leading-strings of nursing nations—to develop its capabilities ; and if the success- ful cultivation of mountain slopes and unpromising soils in densely peopled countries be con- 22 f 170 TOPOGRAPHY OF ROUTE FROM THE MISSISSIPPI TO THE COLUMBIA. sidered, it will warrant the conclusion, that but an insignificant fraction of all the mountain country will prove unfit for some kind of useful purpose or improvement. By way of further illustration, however, of these mountains and the various routes by which they can be traversed, a more detailed description will now be submitted of the line of the odometer survey. Leaving Medicine or Sun river, the trail passes through two square-looking elevations, which seem as if they had been upheaved from the general surface to a height of about eight hundred feet, having a base each of at least a square mile, the table-land on the top corresponding with the surrounding country, and the almost perpendicular sides showing a regular stratification, such as, no doubt, obtains through this section generally. On the one to the northwest, the edge of the stratum of rock on the very top resembles a crown in some degree, on which account it was called ‘‘Crown Butte;” they are both called the ‘ Big Knees” by the hunters. From these curious features, which may be considered the gate or entrance to the mountains by this trail, there follows a succession of every description of mountain country. For the first twenty-five miles the trail winds a devious course to the southwest, through innumerable, naked, and rocky hills of moderate elevation, with rugged outlines; and, crossing several small streams, leads to a defile on the south fork of Dearborn river, which is the entrance proper of the Blackfoot or Cadotte’s Pass, as this point is accessible from other directions. On either side of this distance is a considerable extent of country in which the rocks crop out in every conceivable shape. In one case further progress is stopped, to all appearance, by an immense wall of rock, stretching from hill to hill across the ravine in which the train is moving. The guide, however, soon finds a narrow passage which admits one animal at a time, at the risk (which sometimes becomes a certainty) of tumbling into a deep muddy water-course which has its outlet here. In numerous instances the rocks project perpendicularly to a great height from the surface, and, from constant disintegration by the action of frost, the accumulating detritus forms a regular slope around the base, which has a very artificial appearance. One of the most remarkable of these is the “Bird Tail Rock,” a pretty and appropriate name; it is probably not less than three hundred and fifty feet high, of which about one hundred and fifty feet of the upper half is a picturesque cluster of basaltic (?) columns, which attracts tke notice of every traveller, and so straight that it bafHles the most persevering efforts to ascend it. The writer and a companion made the attempt and arrived at a recess within about one hundred feet of the top: here was found the lair of some wild animal, probably a grizzly bear, judging from its size and the dung which lay about. It was perhaps a lucky circumstance for the visitors that Bruin happened to be ‘not at home.” The defile leading to the pass is ten miles through, in a course of southwest by south, and is walled in on either side by loity mountains, whose steep sides are clothed almost to their sum- mits with an impenetrable forest of every species of pine. From the sources of Dearborn river a steep and laborious ascent of over a thousand feet attains the dividing ridge of the Rocky mountains; and on the other side a more sudden descent of about six hundred feet leads into a similar defile, where, immediately at the foot of the descent, rise the waters that flow to the Pacific. The view from the top of the dividing ridge should be often seen, to be well described, as every change of weather doubtless produces a corresponding change in the aspect of the vast scene. On the occasion of our crossing, although in the valleys the weather was mild and serene, on the top there blew a gale which well nigh took men and mules off their feet, and made it difficult to take a steady look in any direction. An endless succession of towering peaks and ridges stretched away into blue distance on every side, until the farthest outlines seemed indifferently to be clouds or mountains. The first snow had fallen and melted in the valleys, but still glistened in patches on the highest summits, giving them a sharp relief amidst the dusky pine-clad hills, that seemed to reflect their gloomy hues upon the sky; for although the sun was shining brightly, he seemed impotent to cast a cheerful ray upon the sombre and stormy TOPOGRAPHY OF ROUTE FROM THE MISSISSIPPI TO THE COLUMBIA. nucA mountain waste. At this great elevation there is probably always more or less high wind, which, with the tremendous view on every side, might well fill the untutored mind of the roam- ing savage with the idea that here must be the abode of the spirits of storm and destruction. The Blackfoot fork of the Bitter Root river, which has one of its sources here, flows southwest by west for twenty miles through a narrow valley, which gradually opens to a width of four miles at its lower end, where there is considerable timber in the bottom; the trail, however, keeps the open prairie, which is unobstructed, except by the small affluents of the main stream. The valley suddenly closes to a narrow gorge, into which the waters, now swollen to the dignity or a river, rush with some force. Here was a considerable beaver swamp, and a complete dam across the river forcing the pent up waters into a side channel ; this was the only specimen of the labors of that industrious animal which was seen upon this route. ‘The trail follows the river through the gorge, crossing it several times, and, after twelve miles of the most difficult mountain paths—sometimes through thick and tangled brush, sometimes along steep and dangerous side- hill, then through a gigantic net-work of fallen timber, and often through the swift and deepening current—emerges at last upon one of the largest and finest of the mountain prairies. Enclosed all round by high mountains, as this and all the other prairies are, they appear to be of much smaller extent than they really are. Its greatest length nearly north and south is about twenty miles, by an average width of seven; thus containing certainly over one hundred square miles of good grazing land, with a gently undulating surface and numbers of small ponds, the river meandering through it, with timber and brush at intervals. Geology must determine whether, as it occurs to almost every one, such prairies have been formerly the beds of mountain lakes; while a reflective mind takes pleasure in anticipating the time when the wild and exuberant beauties of such scenes shall receive the chastening touch of art, and be animated by the labors of a civilized and industrious community. Crossing this prairie a point or two north of west, the route, and the river generally, continue in the same course for ten miles along the base of high and steep mountains on the south, and a considerable extent of prairie hills on the north (‘Prairie of the Knobs,” of Lewis and Clark;) thence through a small level prairie of a few miles in extent, surrounded, of course, by high mountains; thence, for thirty miles, a few points south of west in a deep, narrow valley, following the river where it can be followed, and meeting with every variety and difficulty of mountain path—narrow, level intervals, jutting rocks, thick-growing and obstructive timber, steep ascents, and rocky and dangerous side-hill. It would be a tedious if not a hopeless task to attempt to give in detail the striking and ever-changing scenery of so great an expanse of mountains; it is the happy privilege of the painter, only, to present at a glance the varied ele- ments of the picturesque and sublime, which would soon grow tiresome in description, even if exact and vivid description were possible to such an extent. After the last distance stated, a small stony prairie occurs where the Blackfoot fork joins the Hell Gate river, which then flows through a narrow opening on the west called Hell Gate, and debouches on the open valley of the Bitter Root, which, seven miles farther west, receives by two mouths the collected waters from the eastern ranges. The Blackfoot fork is the ‘Cockala- hishkit or River of the Road to Buffalo” of Lewis and Clark; but why it should be so called is not very clear, for the mountain Indians go to the buffalo plains by several routes, of which the Blackfoot river is believed to be the worst and least used. Some twenty-odd miles up the valley of the Bitter Root, which has already been sufficiently noticed, are the Flathead village of St. Mary’s and the hospitable mud-walls of Fort Owen, oc- cupied by the gentlemen of that name, independent traders with the Indian tribes, and setting a fine example of persevering industry in reclaiming and cultivating the soil, raising crops and cattle. From the confluence of the rivers near Hell Gate the main route avoids the difficult part of the Bitter Root valley, turning on a course directly north about twenty miles through a picta- resque defile to an extensive and fertile prairie on Jocko river, where numbers of wild horses 172 TOPOGRAPHY OF ROUTE FROM THE MISSISSIPPI TO THE COLUMBIA. were seen; thence northwest sixteen or seventeen miles, through the most varied and interest- ing scenery, to where the Jocko empties into the Flathead river, a stream as large as the Bitter Rovt, and sometimes supposed to be Clark’s fork proper. This river comes from the north to this point, and turns directly west, with little variation for twenty-five miles, where it joins the Bitter Root at the opening of a mountain-bound prairie called Horse Plain. In the last half of this distance the mountains form a canon on the river similar to that mentioned on the Bitter Root, at the commencement of which the route leaves the river and tends northwest nine miles through Camash prairie, which is the least attractive-looking of such spots; thence west again about nine miles through a rocky pass, and, by a steep descent, strikes the united waters at the foot of Horse Plain. Since the conclusion of the surveys in the mountains it appears that the two avenues to the valley of Clark’s fork by what are called carons, on the Flathead and Bitter Root rivers, immediately above their junction at Horse Plain, have not received the thorough examina- tion to which their importance entitled them; it will not, therefore, be out of place to give in a few words a somewhat clearer view of their character, as amongst the principal topographical fea- tures of the whole mountain section. ' They have been mentioned as canons; but this expression must not be taken in the exact sense in which it is applied in purely volcanic regions, where unbroken perpendicular walls of rock, thousands of feet in height, are opposed to each other for many miles; but they come the nearest to this idea of any similar features in the mountain-basin in which they occur, and of which they are the natural outlet. Vertical walls are understood to occur for short distances, but in general the mountains crowd upon the rivers in rugged broken masses alternating with steep slopes and dense timber, the sudden and frequent windings of the channels being the most serious engineer- ing difficulty. How far this character actually extends will require further and more delib- erate examination to determine which is the more necessary, as, notwithstanding the facility of detour which is found higher up in the different branches of Clark’s fork, still, from the configu- ration of the country, the manner in which the interior or spur ranges of the mountain-basin close upon these rivers above their junction, it is easy to perceive that all practicable routes concentrate to this particular point, with the exception of the route across the Coeur d’Alene mountains re- perted by Lieut. Mullan, but only as entitled to further examination. Thus the result of the whole examinations in this extensive basin is, that two practicable railroad passes are reported into the basin (going west) and two passes believed to be practicable out of it. The canon on the Bitter Root was partially examined by Mr. Lander; that on the Flathead was not examined at all. They are both believed to be practicable at extreme cost. In the next seventeen miles, a point or so north of west, the river now certainly called Clark’s — fork* winds through the deepest and narrowest part of the valley, the mountains on the south rising abruptly from the water, and heavily timbered; but on the north they project, in shape- less, naked masses, to an immense height, the frequent piles of fragmentary rocks giving evidence of some tremendous disruption; the whole range bearing the appearance of having been rent asunder by some giant force, while hanging rock and mural precipice stand in stupendous contrast to the bits of sward and timber on the river-banks and islands. About midway through this magnificent gorge lie the remains of the ‘Fallen mountain,” over which the trail leads as the only chance to proceed; the rudest kind of horse-track which even an Indian would construct winds deviously on either side from top to bottom, from rock to rock, the interstices being partially filled up with the smallest fragments and detritus, but not so as to insure freedom from danger without the greatest circumspection. It takes half a day for a train of moderate size to cross, and this is rarely done without injury or loss of animals; indeed, it is still a mountain in its fall. At the end of this grand aggregate of everything that is sublime and beautiful in scenery, are a few square — * No effort was spared to obtain the Indian names; but they are so hopelessly unpronounceable, that not one could be retained, except that of Lake Kalispelm, or Pend d’Oreille; and Kalispelm is merely the beginning of the Indian name, which extends to ten or twelve guttural sounds, | wi TOPOGRAPHY OF ROUTE FROM THE MISSISSIPPI TO THE COLUMBIA. 173 miles of sward and timber called Thompson’s prairie, and here we pause once more to admire the noble prospect. This prairie is a succession of grassy terraces on the north from the river to the frowning mountains which enclose it, and which on the south rise steeply from the immediate bank; the slopes between the different levels are covered with timber, of which the youngest growth extends irregularly on the open plateaux. Standing on the river-bank and looking up the valley, the view embraces all the elements of grandeur and beauty that can be imagined in mountain scenery, and in an extent which an artist would choose for a single picture. Here, as in many places, the mountains close in upon the river, making a stupendous gateway to the open prai- rie, into which pours a brawling stream through one of the numerous gorges from the north. It is late in the morning when the sun overtops the crowded mountains and lights their deep re- cesses, gilding the autumnal foliage of the little islands, which derive additional beauty from their clear reflection in the still back water created by the meeting of the rivers; the massive outlines of the foreground are still enveloped in shade, while in the mighty opening, rocks and trees, and pool and torrent, are glowing in a blaze of light. Such are the scenes that reward the way-worn tourist throughout this great region, and it is almost sorrowful to reflect that the very purpose of our explorations will soon dispel the ‘enchantment that distance lends,” when it will be no longer an event in life to have crossed the mountains. The character of the valley of Clark’s fork, from Thompson’s prairie to Pend d’Oreille lake, has already been perhaps sufficiently indicated in the general review of the mountains. The course and distance are about sixty-five miles northwest, in the course of which the only new features are a few small canons, as they may be termed, through which the river suddenly dis- appears, but soon emerging and meandering through the dense timber, and making several re- markable horse-shoe bends. Of the canons, that called the Cabinet, about thirteen or fourteen miles from the lake, is rather remarkable, but wanting the interest of novelty to those who have seen the wonders of the mountains from their eastern base. The traveller through the valley frequently passes through tracts of timber where the tall trunks stand denuded of their limbs and foliage, scarred and blackened by destructive fires which are sometimes started by lightning, but as probably by negligence or the nefarious purposes of hostile Indians. It is one of the grandest sights by night to watch the progress of the fearful element through the close-grown trees; the hissing of the flames enveloping the green limbs; the crashing of falling logs, and the clouds of belching smoke that darken the star-lit sky; the lurid glare and fitful light, in which the outlines of the hills and woods are seen starting from obscurity into view, to sink again into thicker dark- ness: these, with all the minor concomitants of such a scene, make an impression on the mind which can never be effaced. Though these fires be so terrible in appearance, they are rarely of any great extent, as the mountain-spurs and jutting rocks, with the winding of the river, form impassable checks to the most furious fire; they are soon succeeded by a growth of young trees, and are of but slight importance, compared to the devastating effects of a fire on the prairies. Among the few disagreeables of such a mountain trip is one, it should be hoped of rare occur- rence, which perhaps may not improperly be mentioned here. While the studious observer of nature is feasting his imagination with the varied scenery of the mountains, he suddenly stum- bles on the scalped remains of some poor Indian warrior, left hastily on his last battle-ground by his vanquished tribe, his horse having shared his fate, lying near by ; horribly mutilated by obscene birds and beasts, the loathsome objects are found, it may be, festering in the sun or stiffened in ‘the frost—the most deplorable evidence of the unceasing hostilities which seem to be the most important purpose of the red man’s life. At the end of the most thickly wooded section of Clark’s fork is Pend d’Oreille lake, encircled by a zone of romantic hills of diminishing elevation, and dotted with a few lovely islands like gems upon the breast of beauty. It is of very irregular form, with a varied shore-line of rocky bluff and sandy beach, a large section of which exhibits unmistakable indications of iron. Going TOPOGRAPHY OF ROUTE FROM THE MISSISSIPPI TO THE COLUMBIA. round the northern shore, a course is made across the lake to its outlet, of west-northwest, sixteen miles ; thence about eight miles southwest to the Hudson’s Bay crossing, to which the distance on the river is twelve miles. From the crossing to the 49th parallel the river is very little known. Lieutenant Arnold made a reconnaissance of the falls over which it pours into the Columbia; but no regular examination of the rest of the river from St. Ignatius to its mouth has hitherto been made ; it is merely reported to be exceedingly rough and dangerous by the hardy mountaineers. With respect to the character of the river channels, and their capability of improvement from Fort Owen to Vancouver, it will be sufficient here to refer to the daring adventures of Dr. Suckley and his little party, during their attempt to go the whole length of those important rivers in a single canoe. When that gentleman arrived at Vancouver, some time after the main parties, his lugubrious and forlorn appearance, in the fragments of a dragoon overcoat and the remains of party-colored blanket leggins, sufficiently attested what patient endurance his gallant efforts must have cost him; but his own lively journal should be allowed to tell the rest. It is to be regretted that the hardships he experienced should have made it impossible to render a more perfect survey of the Columbia; but it is hoped that his narrative, besides its general interest, will redeem whatever errors may subsequently be observed in his sketch of that river as it will appear in the maps of the expedition. Leaving the crossing southwest by south, twenty-five miles across the easy summit between Clark’s fork and Spokane river, through open timber to the beautiful plain called Coeur d’ Alene prairie, where are found large bands of domestic cattle in the finest condition, belonging to different trading posts—the best evidence of the ease with which such places might be settled. It is the largest of the mountain prairies on the main route, and probably the most superior in any point of view; but having already indicated the general character of all these prairies, it will suffice to remark the decreasing elevation of the mountains in which it is embosomed, suggesting to the traveller that he is soon about to quit these scenes of nature’s greatness. ‘Twenty miles southwest along the edge of Coeur d’Alene prairie reaches Spokane or Coeur d’Alene river— (the doubts about the application of such names will be examined and cleared up for the final map)—sixteen miles, two points north of west to the crossing of the Spokane; after which, having made a steep ascent of five or six hundred feet in a few miles, two points south of west, through alternate wood and prairie, the mountains, though still in view, are actually passed, and then is beheld the first expanse of the Great Plain of the Columbia. When the foregoing was written, the journal and map of Lieutenant Mullan’s comprehensive exploration from Fort Owen to Fort Hall was received. The great extent of mountains and prairies embraced in this work, which was performed during the winter months, would call for a more extended notice, if they were not of such exactly similar character to those already mentioned here, with the exception of the large sage plains near Fort Hall; indeed, if there be any difference in the likeness of the former features, it might be inferred, from the impulsive and enthusiastic reports of that officer, that they were rather superior than otherwise to anything of the kind occurring in this report. His journal of that route abounds with interesting details which must necessarily be excluded from a sketch simply intended to embrace the general features; for if everything were included, connected merely with the subject of topography, a large and readable volume might be filled. From near the point where the dividing ridge of the Bitter Root mount- ains joins the main Rocky range, the latter sweeps around to the southeast, making a reverse curve and enclosing a smaller mountain basin, open to the east, its waters forming the Jefferson © fork of the Missouri, and containing an area of about ten thousand square miles, of which one thousand may be reckoned for open and favorable country hitherto observed, embracing many beautiful and extensive prairies, of which the largest is the Big Hole prairie, (the Hot Spring valley of Lewis and Clark,) sending numerous tributaries to Wisdom river, and having an immense extent of excellent pasture. In the exploration of this basin, Lieut. Mullan entered from the eastern fork of St. Mary’s TOFOGRAPHY OF ROUTE FROM THE MISSISSIPPI TO THE COLUMBIA. 175 river, crossing the Big Hole mountains; thence about five days’ march, traversing the extreme headwaters of Wisdom river and Jefferson fork, again crossing the main range to Fort Hall, (about one hundred miles through the well known sand and sage desert of the Snake River valley.) Returning, he crosses the basin again by a more easterly route, crossing the two streams mentioned about a day’s march above their junction, his route leading almost wholly through prairie valleys of great beauty and reported fertility. Leaving the basin by a small branch of Wisdom river, he crosses the Rocky mountains for the fourth time, and enters the greater mountain feature already described by the South fork of Hell Gate river, on which he reports a more extensive district of open country than any before observed, and a considerable hot spring. He calls this broad valley the Deer Lodge prairie, which, from its great extent and reported advantages, will probably, when better known, dispute the palm of superiority even with the famous valley of St. Mary’s. The Blackfoot fork, St. Mary’s river, Lou Lou fork, and the western slope of the Bitter Root mountains, with the Jefferson fork, Wisdom river, &c., were explored and described by Lewis and Clark; but those celebrated travellers having had no object beyond that of exploration simply, and having left no topographical data beyond general description, the recent more systematic explorations may be considered as essentially new, as they were absolutely necessary for any practical purpose. The Great Plain of the Columbia, or Plateau of Spokane, as it has been called, is bounded on the north by those rivers, on the west by the former, and on the south and east by the Blue and Rocky mountains; it is about two hundred by one hundred and fifty miles in its greatest length and breadth, and presents such a curious variety of surface, that it has been alternately called a barren sage plain, rocky plateau, sterile waste, and sandy desert. A great deal might be said to show that it is either or all of these, but there can be no doubt that it possesses many points of interest which time only will develop. It contains numerous lakes and rivers, the latter flowing almost invariably in canons of proportionate dimensions, from the great fissure which holds the Columbia to the litle cracks in the surface peculiar to every streamlet. Large tracts contain little else than huge masses of columnar basalt, projecting to different heights, from ten to one hundred feet; extensive swales occur, covered with bunch-grass ; and sometimes we pass through many miles of short rounded ridges and hillocks, arranged, as it were, in rows, and laid towards the same cardinal point; while near Wallah-Wallah are large fields of artemisia in deep sandy soil, the most unfavorable part of the whole route. As might be supposed, the best sections of the Great Plain are found in the immediate vicinity of the mountains, where a deeper soil accumulates from the wash of the hills; but the extreme western portion, near the Columbia, presents little else than a miserable desert of drifting sand, alternating with sage plains and naked volcanic rocks. The examination of the Grand Coulée by Lieutenant Arnold shows another instance of the little reliance to be placed in unauthorized reports; instead of connecting across the northwestern bend of the Columbia some seventy miles, and being, as might be supposed, the old bed of that river, it extends but twenty-five miles, with the form of an immense cafion, and then is soon lost in the general level of the plateau. Not unfrequently on the rivers and streams the cafion walls disappear in rounded slopes, which open out into valleys and flats where moderate grazing is found, and sufficient of brush-wood and dwarf cedar, poplar, &c., for fire-wood, while in very extensive sections the bunch-grass affords pasturage that might be called abundant. The soil, which is mostly decomposed trap-rock, of various depths, but generally thin, cannot be denied to possess properties of productiveness ; and on the swales it is vegetable mould, which only requires cultivation to prove its capability, while the rivers and lakes abound in fish, but the hungry wolf is the only tenant of the plain. The region, altogether, however, is not very attractive in any respect, and can only be looked upon as a new field of enterprise when the more favored wilderness shall have been subdued to the ever-increasing requirements of civilization. 176 TOPOGRAPHY OF ROUTE FROM THE MISSISSIPPI TO THE COLUMBIA. From the Spokane to where the Peluse joins the Snake river in a direct course across the plain is about ninety miles southwest, during which the route crosses numerous small streams, and through such bleak country as has been shortly noticed; thence about fifty miles southwest to Fort Wallah-Wallah, some ten miles below the confluence of the Great forks of the Columbia, and another important stage of our journey has been accomplished. It should be stated here, that the longest march without water on the nearest route to Wallah-Wallah was twenty-seven miles; but by taking a longer route, water can be bad by much shorter marches. The Columbia river from Wallah-Wallah down, its canons, rapids, the Dalles, Cascades, &c., are too well known to require much notice here; they have long since received the polished touch of one of the most eminent and favorite of living writers, and, in connexion with the northern Cascade mountains, have just been thoroughly handled by the gentlemen of the western division. It will be sufficient to observe that the prairies south of the Columbia, over which the odometer survey was carried, are extremely hilly and sandy, with some artemisia, which, however, is not seen beyond the Umatilla; an occ: isional house being a cheering sign that our labors were drawing to a close. From this route the majestic aurlves of the pr iricipal peaks of the Cascade range, north and south, are almost constantly in view, from incredible distances, glistening through the pure air in their mantles of eternal snow. Near the Cascades, as the principal rapids of the Columbia are called, the odometer gave out, as well as some of the animals, and the winter was too far advanced to renew the attempt to carry the survey to Puget sound. However, it is satisfactory to know that the survey, as it was first plotted, independent of cor- rection by astronomical points, but connected by those of Captain Wilkes and Professor Nicollet, was only ten miles in error; being in excess, in a line of nearly two thousand miles, an error of only one in two hundred, while in latitude there was no error whatever.* Going down the Columbia, the reason of the Cascade mountains being so named becomes apparent from the steep sides of that tremendous chasm through which the gathered waters seek the ocean. Foremost among the wonders that attract the admiring gaze of travellers are the numerous and beautiful little falls which pour from every crevice, at every height, and frequently from the very mountain top. The grand proportions of the mountains and the noble river deceive the eye with respect to distance, and surprise ensues that there should be heard no “ sound of fall- ing waters.” As many as twelve of these fairy cascades can be counted within view in a single reach of the river. Some, descending from hanging rocks, are dissolved in spray less than half way down the fall; others steal down the crooked crannies of the mountain, never actually leaving their steep channels, in which they glisten like a snow-wreath ; and not a few seem as though they were frozen on the mountain side, so regular and imperceptible is the motion of the water, and a telescope is necessary to prove that they really are what they barely seem to be. Most of them are but tiny threads of foam; but on turning a projecting and sheltering cliff, there is found another little beauty in a nook adorned by groups of evergreens, where the water pours over a broader ledge, and spreads into a veil such as Undine might have worn: gently waving with the undulations of the air, every drop yet appears so distinctly to the eye that we pause, though vainly, to hear it plashing on the rocks beneath. From the Cascades down the Columbia in a steamer, and up the Cowlitz, it may be, in the mail canoe; finding little towns on the banks, and sleeping in houses every night, so that we believe we are getting into settlements once more. It is scarely necessary to make more than a few closing remarks on a Territory where already nearly all the appliances of industry are actively at work amid a quickly-growing population, and whose productions begin to vie with those of any country in the temperate zone. It has no doubt been told in many different ways that the country west of the Cascade range and north of the Columbia, particularly around Puget sound, abounds in all the resources that contribute to the growth of States; that its dense pine * Subsequently, by comparison with Captain Wilkes’s revised longitude of Wallah-Wallah, the odometer survey was found to be 4’ in excess, or about three statute miles. MEDICAL REPORT OF EASTERN DIVISION. Wit forest, which is its most prevailing feature, is interspersed with valleys and prairies, many of them teeming with life and energy, and that it cannot be long before their hardy citizens shall assume the proud position of a sovereign State. It remains, therefore, but to take a farewell glance at those majestic mountains, some of which may even now be vomiting their hoarded fires.* .We pause at every opening in the woods to admire the brilliant tints of slumbering volcanoes, or to watch a passing cloud empurpled by the sun, far below their lofty summits, and turn away reluctantly to complete our journey with the day. ‘Towards the termination of the ride from the Cowlitz to Olympia the opening timber gives glimpses of distant waters, overtopped by the outlines of high mountains with whitened peaks. Emerging from the forest-depths, the mountain ranges of the Cape Flattery peninsula grow clearly into view ; their snowy peaks and summits are seen gleaming in the mellowed splendor of the evening sunlight, and reflecting a radiant glow upon the placid bosom of the sound; putting an appropriate period to a long and eventful journey, and to this sketch. I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, JOHN LAMBERT. Governor I. I. Srrvrns, Chief of Northern Pacific Railroad Exploration. 2. PRELIMINARY NOTICE OF THE GEOLOGY OF THE COUNTRY EXPLORED BY DR. JOHN EVANS, GEOLOGIST. [This paper, sent from Washington Territory, where Dr. Evans was still employed in the field when the report of Governor Stevens was submitted, was lost on the route. ] 3. MEDICAL REPORTS OF DR. GEORGE SUCKLEY, ASSISTANT SURGEON U. S. A.» AND DR. J. G. COOPER, SURGEON OF THE EXPLORATION. DR. SUCKLEY’S MEDICAL REPORT FOR THE EASTERN DIVISION. Fort Sremacoom, Pucer Sounp, W. T., January 4, 1854. Sir: L have the honor to submit the following brief report concerning the health of the parties under your own immediate charge, operating between the headwaters of the Mississippi river and Puget sound, together with a few remarks concerning the character of the country passed through, and the prevailing diseases in the various Indian tribes seen on the route. The whole line of march can be readily divided into five distinct sections, varying considerably from each other in soil, climate, and productions. 1. The prairie and coteau country between Sauk rapids and Fort Union, at the mouth of the Yellowstone river. The eastern two-thirds of this section was exceedingly level, abounding in lakes, ponds, and pools. ‘The weather was generally clear and pleasant, the heat of a July sun being generally moderated by refreshing breezes. Dews at night very heavy. Vegetation rank. The western third of this was principally through a coteau country, nearly destitute of timber. Lakes numerous, but many of them stagnant and saline. Dews very light. Vegetation more scanty. The main party of sixty-seven persons, and the detachment of nineteen under Lieutenant Grover, were occupied in passing through this region from June 10th to August 6th, a period of about eight weeks. The health of all persons was excellent; not a case of malarious disease appeared; and the only cases of sickness which came under my notice were slight attacks of looseness of the bowels, produced by eating too heartily of buffalo meat, in addition to the use of * A late mail announced that Mount Rainier was emitting smoke. 23 f 178 MEDICAL REPORT OF EASTERN DIVISION. saline water. These slight ailments yielded very readily to treatment, and but one man was prevented thereby from duty, and confined to bed. His illness was promoted and aggravated by his own gross imprudence. With proper choice of camping grounds we could nearly always obtain good water, and plenty of it. 2. The route passed over between Fort Union and Fort Benton, by way of the valleys of the Missouri, Milk, Marias, and Teton rivers. The command at this time numbered over one hundred persons, and the time occupied on the march was between August Sth and September 8th. The length of this part of the march was three hundred and seventy-five miles. Three men came on the sick report: St. Louis, (teamster,) epileptic convulsions; Osborne, (cook,) partial paralysis; Sergeant Collins, (corps sappers and miners,) dysentery. The two first mentioned would probably have been attacked with the above complaints whether they had been employed by the expedition or not. St. Louis had been subject to fits for several years. It was thought best to send him in a boat with a party which lefi Fort Benton for St. Louis, Missouri, under charge of Lieutenant Saxton. Osborne continued with the main party until it reached St. Mary’s village. He then had another attack of the paralysis, and was left with the men under Lieutenant Mullan’s charge. Collins’s attack seemed to be owing to indigestion, and consequent diarrhoea, kept up and aggravated by riding on horseback. He was too unwell to proceed farther with the train, and was consequently sent down the river with Lieutenant Saxton. The health of the rest of the party was exceedingly good. 3—Contains that portion of our route between Fort Benton and Fort Colville, passing over and through the Rocky, Bitter Root, and Coeur d’Alene mountains. This country is well wooded, and is abundantly supplied with swift running cold spring brooks. No cases of sickness occurred in the main command. At St. Mary’s I was detailed on special service, which necessarily involved my absence from the main party until we reached Fort Van- couver. Section 4, embraces our route through a country almost destitute of timber between Fort Colville and the Dalles; the health of the command still continued excellent. Section 5. March between the Dalles and Puget sound, via Fort Vancouver. This district is well wooded, and abundantly supplied with good water. Three cases came on the sick report as follows: The first was that of a mule-packer, who had contracted syphilis. The second was a case of severe acute articular rheumatism in the person of a dragoon private. This was produced by his lying out in the wet all night, during a fit of intoxication. The rest of the men were all healthy, except one of the gentlemen of the scientific corps, who became slightly indisposed in consequence of the sudden change from being in the open air, to in-door confinement at Vancouver. On reviewing the whole route, the unequalled and unparalleled good health of the command during a march of over eighteen hundred miies appears remarkable ; especially when we consider the hardships and exposures necessarily incident to such a trip. Not a case of ague or fever occurred. Such a state of health could only be accounted for by the great salubrity of the countries passed through, and their freedom from malarious or other endemic disease. All the Indian tribes which came under my observation east of the Rocky mountains seemed free from epidemic disease, at least temporarily free. Their principal complaints are chronic inflammations of the eye and phthisis pulmonalis. Lues venerea and gonorrhoea prevail, to a certain extent, among the Assiniboins and Gros Ventres; but the Blackfeet proper, Piegans, and Blood Indians, as far as I could learn, are nearly exempt from these diseases. The Indians seen between the Rocky mountains and Fort Colville belong to the Flathead and Pend d’Oreille or Kalispelm tribes. Owing to the good principles inculeated by the mission- aries they are very virtuous in their habits; consequently syphilis is almost unknown among them. Phthisis pulmonalisis very common among them, especially among the last mentioned tribe. MEDICAL REPORT OF WESTERN DIVISION. 179 They are very poor, and frequently suffer from scanty innutritious diet. As most of the members of both of these tribes have been vaccinated by the missionaries, smallpox is of rare occurrence. The Indian tribes on the Columbia river, below Fort Colville, are rapidly becoming depopu- lated by the smallpox, intemperance, and syphilis. During the past summer the smallpox has prevailed in every direction, carrying off the natives by hundreds. The Lakemans and Wyam- pums, during this short period, buried more than one-half of their numbers. Tn conclusion, I cannot too strongly urge the importance of some well-directed measures being instituted for the thorough and systematic vaccination of all the native tribes west of the Rocky mountains. Without requiring any additional argumentative appeal, common humanity and good sense plainly indicate the course to be pursued. I remain, sir, respectfully, your obedient servant, GEORGE SUCKLEY, M. D., A. A. Surgeon to the Eastern Division of Exploration. Governor Isaac J. STEVENS. DR. COOPER’S MEDICAL REPORT. Fort Vancouver, December 26, 1853. Str: In this report I shall consider, in detail, all the facts noticed in regard to the health ot the party—the hygiene of the country, and the diseases prevailing among the Indians, with their remedies. The general health of the party was very good throughout the journey. No epidemics or endemic diseases prevailed; boils being the only disease that occurred very generally, probably in consequence of the warm weather and meat diet. Two men were discharged at the Yakima with diseases contracted before starting, and which the nature of their duties as packers, and daily riding, prevented a recovery from during a march. Disorders of the digestive organs were common, but readily yielded to treatment. Although almost every person in the command applied to me at different times for medicine or advice, the above were the only cases especially worthy of notice. Many of the medicines furnished to the party were found unnecessary, while others were very useful; and a few were not supplied which would often have been serviceable. Considerable loss occurred from breakage in consequence of the diffi- culty of conveying medicines in panniers on the backs of mules. The country traversed from June to November appears to be very healthy in that season. The great dryness of the climate, and the perfect drainage of the country, prevent the prevalence of malarious disease in summer. No instance of endemic diseases of any other kind was met with not attributable to the mode of life and habits of the inhabitants. Of the diseases prevalent among the Indians, the smallpox was the most common and fatal in its effects. Whole tribes have been exterminated by it on the Columbia river, and we met with it among all those inhabit- ing the west and north sides of its upper branches. Nearly all the survivors were marked with it, and it was decreasing at the time of our visit. Vaccination had been tried by some white residents on the Okinakane river, but without effect. East of the Columbia, however, it had not yet appeared, and the principal tribes there had been vaccinated by the Catholic priests. No indubitable cases of the syphilis were seen east of the mountains, though it has prevailed very generally on the west side of the mountains. I saw cases of intermittent fever on the west side of the mountains, but none on the east. The Indians there, however, say that it formerly prevailed extensively, but suppose it was brought from lower down the river. I met with no disease of the. digestive organs among them, and their unvaried diet of dry fish and berries does not seem to affect them. Chronic inflammation of the external eye, with opacity of the cornea, is very common, apparently caused by the irritation of smoke in their badly-ventilated huts. Blindness following smallpox was met with but rarely. I saw an instance of curvature of spine ina boy of about fifteen years, then past remedy. Deformity of the-hip-joints was not rare, probably in consequence of morbus coxarius. Frac- 180 CASCADES AND LINE OF SNOQUALME PASS. tures and dislocations of the limbs appear to be rare. The Indians are not much exposed to accidents of that kind, on account of their indolent habits and little taste for adventure. Atrophy of the muscles constituting the calf of the leg is almost a disease among them, in consequence of their infrequent use in walking; all journeys being performed on horseback or in canoes, even for half a mile distance. Consumption is common among them, in consequence of poor clothing and shelter, combined with the weakness of constitution, generally caused by a scanty and innutritious quality of food. Decay of the teeth seems to be rare, but they wear down from the surface, as in horses, &c., forming smooth flat tops. I could learn of very few remedies among the Indian tribes; they are unwilling to tell of such as they have, which must be very few and of little value, as they place great confidence in the treatment and medicine of the whites. Many tribes on the upper Columbia and its branches use the hot vapor bath, followed by a plunge into cold water. This severe hydropathie practice does not seem to benefit them, and is fast giving way to other remedies. The huts used for its administration have been often described, and are used also east of the Rocky mountains. Like all savage nations, charms and incantations are much relied on by them. An umbelliferous plant (Pencedanum) is used by them as an emetic, as well as the root of the Sicyos Oregonus, or wild melon, which has properties similar to those of colocynth. There are, undoubtedly, many plants indigenous to the country, of great medicinal value. Some of these are well known, but a long time will be required to ascertain fully the uses of the greater part of them. Some are noticed in the accompanying list of plants observed. Respectfully, &c., J. G. COOPER, M.D. Captain G. B. McCLettan, Corps of Engineers, Commanding Expedition. B. SURVEY OF THE CASCADES. 4, RAILROAD PRACTICABILITY OF THE CASCADES AND OF THE LINE OF THE SNOQUALME PASS, BY CAPTAIN GEO. B. MCCLELLAN, CORPS OF ENGINEERS, U. S. A., IN COMMAND OF THE WEST- ERN DIVISION. [The survey of the Snoqualme Pass was carried by Captain McClellan up the valley of the Yakima to three miles west of the dividing ridge.] 7 Otymrra, W. T., February 8, 1854. Sir: Ihave the honor to submit the following report upon the practicability of a railroad across the Cascade mountains. The result of the explorations of the last summer has been to ascertain that, between the par- allels of 45° 30’ and 49° north latitude, there are but two passes through the range practicable for a railroad: that of the Columbia river, and that in which the north and main fork of the Yakima heads. I will first describe the latter—heretofore erroneously called the Snoqualme, for the reason that the river of that name, the south fork of the Sinahomish, was incorrectly supposed to head in it. The approach to this pass must be by the valley of the Yakima, crossing the Columbia any- where within fifteen miles above the junction of these two rivers. The Columbia here runs through a level and extensive sage plain, of a sandy soil; the approaches are perfectly good; the river about four hundred yards in width. No material for bridging exists immediately at hand. i Excellent yellow pine grows abundantly on the Yakima, about one hundred miles from its mouth, and can be floated down at high water with but little difficulty. 4 CASCADES AND LINE OF SNOQUALME PASS, 181 Good granite is found on the Columbia, about one hundred and forty mies above the mouth of the Yakima: it may occur at a less distant point. From the crossing of the Columbia to the commencement of the pine timber is a distance of ninety-six miles; the general character of the valley to this point is wide, open, and terraced; the ground of sand, gravel, or loose stones—but little clay, or vegetable mould; curves easy ; long stretches of straight road, perfectly practicable. In this distance there are five points where the hills come close to the river; making, at most, ten miles of side-cutting necessary. This cutting is generally in earth, loose stone, or trap-rock, easily broken into blocks. In addition to these five points, the last eight miles of the ninety-six will be principally side-cutting in earth, gravel and sand—the work light, and no very high side-slopes. In the first eighty miles from the Columbia the grade will be twelve and a half feet to the mile; in the last sixteen miles it will be eight and a half feet to the mile. By keeping thus far the north bank of the Yakima, the only bridges of any consequence required will be two, over streams each about seventy-five feet in width. At some place in this vicinity it would be advisable to cross to the south bank of the Yakima, which is here about forty yards wide; good crossing easily found; plenty of timber on the spot; stone for masonry within twenty-five miles by water. The road now keeps to the valley twenty- one miles farther on—four miles beyond Ksitkas; passing through an open pine woods; soil light, sometimes gravelly; about two miles side-cutting—grade eight feet to the mile. From the point now reached, there are two methods of passing the dividing ridge: 1st. By means of a tunnel four thousand yards in length, from the level of Lake Willailootzas, 2,993 feet above Vancouver; 2d. By a tunnel 11,840 yards long, from the level of Lake Kitchelus, 2,388 feet above Van- couver. If the short tunnel be used, the road must, at this point, leave the valley, take a side location on the northern slope of the mountains bordering the valley on the south, and ascend eight hun- dred and ninety-five feet in eighteen and a half miles, giving a grade of 48.4 feet per mile, in fifty per cent. rock. The plateau of Willailootzas, one mile long, will be entered by a curve, with a radius of about two thousand feet, and the road pass along the north bank of the lake, with side location, in eighty per cent. trap-rock, easily worked. This lake should be partially drained ; its shores are steep, and of broken stone. There will be some little difficulty in preparing a proper depot for the workmen, tools, &c., at the entrance of the tunnel. The tunnel, about four thousand yards long, will pass through solid rock, (silicious conglomerate) and will debouche on the western slope at an elevation of about three thousand feet above the sound at Seattle. The road must now have a side location on the mountain spur bordering the valley of the Nook-noo, in about seventy per cent. rock, generally conglomerate; follow this valley twenty-nine and a half miles, then take the summit and northern slope of the low ridge separating Lake Mowee from the valley of the Snoqualme, and from that taking a spur running from the Nook-noo falls to those of the Snoqualme, reach the latter falls at a distance of forty-five miles from the tunnel—all in side- cutting, with rocks as above. The grade will be 59.8 feet per mile. With reference to this stretch of forty-five miles, and that of eighteen and a half miles on the eastern slope, leading to the tunnel, it is to be observed that the grades given above are on the supposition that a continuous grade can be obtained; but it must be expected that the grade will necessarily be broken, and be higher than the estimate in many places. From the Snoqualme Falls to Seattle is a distance of about 30 miles, of which the first ten must have a grade of twenty feet per mile at most; and the remaining twenty pass over a quite level country. Tf, instead of a tunnel from the level of Lake Willailootzas, we consider a tunnel from the level of Lake Kitchelus, the case will be as follows: Commencing at the point eighteen and a half miles east of Willailootzas, there will be eighteen 182 CASCADES AND LINE OF SNOQUALME PASS. and a half miles, with a grade of 15.2 feet per mile, and but little side-cutting, through a thickly timbered country, as far as Kitchelus. The divide must now be pierced by a tunnel 11,840 yards long, of a character similar to the one considered above. The grade to the Snoqualme falls will then be 46.3 feet per mile; all other circumstances unchanged. These two methods of passing the divide are given as the only means that have suggested them- selves to me, for overcoming the obstacles presented by the best pass north of the Columbia river. The elevation of the different points was taken with the barometer, from the eastward toa point about three miles west of the summit; the distances estimated by parties passing over the ground. It must be clearly understood that the statements just made are the results of a recon- naissance with no other instruments than a compass and barometer, and that they are given merely as the best approximations that could be made under the circumstances; liable to modification upon any future examination, made with more leisure and better instruments. Such an examina- tion may prove the estimated length of the tunnels to be slightly too great, but will rather increase, than decrease, the grades as givenabove. The great difficulty in the case consists in the short distance available for effecting the descent from the summit to the sound. During the past summer and fall, and the present winter, I, and the gentlemen of my party, spared no pains in inquiring of the Indians as to the quantity and nature of the snow in the mountains during the winter. We examined the snow-marks on the trees in the passes; in more than one instance our guides pointed out to us, far above our heads, where they, standing on the snow, had broken off branches from the trees. All the information thus obtained from different sources, at different times, and various places, was perfectly consistent, and is fully sustained by facts known in regard to the Mt. Hood immigrant trail, the Sierra Nevada, Coast range, &c. We all agreed in the opinion, thus founded, that in ordinary winters there could not be less than from twenty to twenty-five feet of snow in the passes. Mr. Tinkham having crossed the mountains by the main Yakima Pass on the 21st January, 1854, reports seven feet of snow in the pass. I have every desire to give this report its due weight, and think it can readily be explained by the fact that this has, thus far, been a remarkably dry season, and that perhaps the greatest amount of snow may usually be found in the mountains at a later period than this. In any event, I still remain of the opinion that, in ordinary winters, not less than from twenty to twenty-five feet of snow will be foundin the passes during the most unfavorable months of the year. With regard to the Columbia River Pass, Iam not prepared to speak so much in detail. The last barometer being broken before we reached there on our return, and for other good reasons, I passed down by water. Mr. Lander, however, travelled the greater part of the distance by land; and as his examination corroborates the opinion I formed at the time, I shall content myself with expressing in general terms the nature of that pass. The only tunnel required will be to effect the passage around Cape Horn mountain; this will not exceed seven hundred feet in length, and a close examination may prove even this to be unnecessary. ‘There need be no gradient to exceed ten feet per mile; no trouble of any conse- quence is to be apprehended from the snow; the work will be prosecuted with much greater rapidity and economy—the supplies much more easily furnished than on the Yakima route. The distance from the mouth of Snake river to Seattle, by this pass, is about one hundred and forty miles longer than by the Yakima Pass; considerable side-cutting in rock will be necessary. The road should follow the Columbia to the valley of the Cowlitz; and following that valley, take as direct a line as possible from the “Farms” to Seattle. The country is of such a nature that there will be no difficulty in obtaining suitable gradients; a great part of the distance from the Cowlitz Farms to Seattle will be through gravelly prairies. CASCADES AND LINE OF SNOQUALMH PASS. 183 From Wallah-Wallah to Seattle there will be but ten streams of any consequence to bridee; these bridges will not be of great length, nor will their construction present any unusual diffi- culties. As a matter of course, there are a number of rivulets to be bridged. It is unnecessary for me to enter upon the discussion of a question so generally understood as the economy of low grades and short tunnels, both as to the construction and subsequent use of a railroad neither does it come within my province to consider these passes as to their positions with respect to the general line from the Rocky mountains westward, whether crossing by the South Pass or to the north of it. Having stated what I know about them, I have merely to consider their relative merits with regard to the physical obstacles presented by each. I am of the opinion that the Yakima Pass is barely practicable, and that only at a high cost of time, labor, and money. The Columbia River Pass is not only undoubtedly practicable, but is remarkably favorable. I see no reason to believe that an equally good one can be found anywhere through the Cascade range, or the Sierra Nevada; and have no hesitation in pronouncing it to be, by far, the best from 45° 30’ to 49° north latitude. The question is, after all, reduced to a choice between the shorter line, high grades, a very long tunnel, and almost certain difficulty from the snow, in one case ; and the longer line, low grades, little or no tunnelling, and no trouble from the snow, in the other. I prefer the latter. The main Yakima Pass giving quite a direct line from the mouth of Snake river to Seattle, it would be desirable that an instrumental survey should be made of it, as well as of the Columbia River Pass, should any more railroad explorations be made on this line. I have mentioned Seattle as the proper terminus of the road, whether it crosses the mountains by the main Yakima or by the Columbia Pass. This place is situated on Elliott bay, and is by far superior to any other harbor on the eastern shore of Puget sound—I mean here, by Puget sound, the sheet of water made up of the sound, properly so called, Admiralty inlet, Bellingham bay, &c. Seattle is the nearest to the Straits of Fuca. It is easily entered with any of the prevailing winds, is secure from heavy seas, and has a most excellent holding-ground of blue clay, and good depth of water—thirty fathoms. The banks are suitable for a town; the deep water comes so near the shore that but very short wharves will be required. Semi-bituminous coal has been found within fourteen miles by water up the D’Wamish. The harbor can be defended by permanent fortifications, — Next to this place, Steilacoom is the best terminus on the eastern shore: it is not so accessible from the straits; it affords a fair harbor for large vessels; and the ‘ Narrows,” which cover this harbor, are more easily defended by permanent works than are the approaches to Seattle. The examination of the passes of the Cascade mountains was necessarily limited to a hasty reconnaissance, for the reason that that range was almost wholly unknown—in fact, nothing what- ever was known of the portion north of the Yakima Pass; and as I was under the necessity of completing the examination as far as the northern limits of our territory, I had no choice, but to ascertain, with the least possible delay, the most important facts with reference to each pass, and then push on in search of others. Lam, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, GEO. B. McCLELLAN, Lieut. Engineers and Bvt. Capt. U. S. A., Commanding Western Division of Survey. Governor I. I. Stevens, Chief of Northern Pacific Railroad Exploration, §c. 184 SNOQUALME PASS. 5. RAILROAD REPORT OF THE PRACTICABILITY OF THE SNOQUALME PASS, AND THE OBSTRUCTIONS TO BE APPREHENDED FROM SNOW, BY MR. A. W. TINKHAM. [Mr. Tinkham extended the survey from the point to which it had been carried by Captain McClellan to Seattle, on Puget sound, and made examinations of the depth of snow in the month of January, 1854.) Wasuineton, D. C., June 19, 1854. Sir: By your direction I made a winter examination of the line of the Yakima in January, and, crossing the mountains by the Snoqualme Pass, carried the line to Seattle, on Puget sound. The Columbia may be crossed near the mouth of the Snake river with a width of about four hundred and fifty yards. Crossing the Columbia, the line enters the valley of the Yakima. This river, in the lower part of its valley, has a width of some one hundred yards; flows with a steady current; is rarely fordable ; for about forty miles from its mouth has no wood on its banks, other than the small willow and occasional poplar; and is bordered on either side by high rounded hills destitute of woods, apparently dry, and scantily covered with grass, and on whose slopes the underlying trap-rock is frequently exposed. These hills, at several intervals, touch upon the river for a short distance only, and again retire frequently several miles from the river, thus dividing the river-bottom into several separate and prairie-like portions, to some or all of which the Indians have given names. The artemisia, in the part of the valley near the Columbia, is abundant on the more elevated positions of the bottom lands, growing less as we ascend the valley, and finally disappearing altogether. After ascending some forty miles up the river, portions of the bottom lands of considerable extent are noticed, so little raised above the level of the river as to be frequently overflowed and marshy; are marked by a stout, lofty swamp grass, and are cut with occasional slough-like channels, which are perhaps dry and hard in summer, but in winter were wet and miry, and were avoided by the Indians with me. For some one hundred miles up, the valley is extremely favorable; the rise of the valley is very small, (by Captain MeClellan’s observations an average of but about twelve feet per mile,) and the only expensive work to be encountered being the limited amount of rock-cutting where the hills close in upon the river in three places of about ten miles in length, and one or perhaps two crossings of the Yakima, with several other small streams. At the end of this distance the valley narrows, and the more broken grounds show that one is on the slopes of the mountains. ‘To Lake Kitchelus, however, within a few miles of the summit, the rise of the val- ley, though more rapid, is still very gentle. After the distance of forty miles spoken of as destitute of wood, the river is generally lined with cotton-wood, the pine occasionally mingling with the latter wood, and becoming more numerous higher up the valley. By my own estimate the summit of the pass is one hundred and fifty-five miles from the mouth of the Yakima. Ata distance of about one hundred and five miles from the mouth the line has entered the more open borders of the extensive wooded district, reaching thence to the shores of Puget sound. On the east slope of the mountains, pines, spruces, firs, cedars, larch, and some small amount of unimportant hard-wood trees, are the general growth; on the western slopes the mass of the growth is as elsewhere on the sound, fir and cedar. As might be supposed, the obstacle to be overcome in this important route, presenting much that is promising, and demanding in the future surveys the most careful attention, is the passage of the summit with suitable grades. The saving of distance in the Great Trunk line, connecting the Mississippi and the great lakes with the Pacific, is so considerable as to warrant a large expenditure to overcome the natural obstacles of the route. Captain McClellan obtained barometric observations, giving a profile of the route from the mouth of the Yakima to a point three miles west of the summit. From this point westward, to the ocean, no connected observations have been made. To present clearly the result of my own observations, I will refer to the two methods suggested by Captain McClellan for passing the summit : SNOQUALME PASS. 185 1. By means of a tunnel, 4,000 yards (2.27 miles) in length, from the level of Willailootzas, about 3,000 feet above the sound, with an eastern approach of eighteen and a half miles with a grade of 48.4 feet per mile, and western descent of forty-five miles at 59.8 feet per mile. 2. By a tunnel 11,845 yards (6.73 miles) long from the level of Lake Kitchelus, 2,388 feet above Vancouver, with an eastern approach of eighteen and a half miles with a grade of 15.2 feet per mile, and a western descent of forty-five miles at 46.3 feet per mile. These estimates suppose a uniform grade for the distance given, and, as is remarked by Captain McClellan, the grade will necessarily be broken, and higher than the estimate in many places. Being without instruments or snow-shoes, and on the coldest days of winter, it was impossible for me to carry a profile down to the sound, or to investigate the best mode of passing the mount- ain; but I think that the lower tunnel might be shortened some, and I observed that while the distance between the summit and Wallah-Wallah is nearly as I made it, the distance between the summit and the sound is much less. From about the level where the tunnel at the water-level of Lake Kitchelus would debouche on the western side, I judged that the natural descent of the valley of the Nook-noo was sixty feet per mile, and that it soon became less than this. I think that from this point westward no serious difficulty exists, and the balance of the road to Seattle may be made without objectionable grades, or work of an unusually expensive character. Although the explorations of this route are still very incomplete, my own meagre examinations are sufficiently conclusive to establish the practicable character of the country between Seattle and the Snoqualme falls. One of the objections to this route, of serious importance, if existing, is, that in winter the Yaki- ma valley is much obstructed, and the mountain summit impassable from the depth of the snows. The exploration which, by your direction, I made from Wallah-Wallah to Seattle, was princi- pally for the decision of this question; and I give in brief its results. The trip from Wallah-Wallah to Seattle occupied the greater part of January of last winter, and just as I was preparing to leave Wallah-Wallah the weather suddenly changed and became severely cold, and the passage of the mountains was made in the coldest days during the winter, a winter of greater cold on the Columbia and Puget sound than is usual. I found no snow in Yakima valley until, on January 13th, about seventy miles from its mouth, the snow was trom two to three inches deep. To this point I found the Indians, in large and small camps, scattered along the banks of the river, the two largest camps being forty-eight and sixty-six miles distant from its mouth. These Indians had grazing with them large bands of horses and some cattle; were in their permanent camps, and evidently, with their experience and perfect acquaintance with the winter, had in the fall prepared for the occupation of their winter camp, where I found them, without the expectation that the snow would drive them thence, or destroy their horses and cattle. Ninety miles from the mouth of the river, January 16, the snow was three or four inches deep; the grass was good, and the small number of Indians here had a few horses grazing near this camp. Thenceforward the snow slowly increased, until, sixty-five miles farther on, on the 21st of January, I crossed the summit of the Yakima Pass with a depth of snow of six feet for a few miles. Fourteen miles west of the summit the snow was but eight inches deep, mostly the de- posit of a snow-storm occurring during my passage of the mountain, and thence rapidly dimin- ished, at the Snoqualme Falls being an inch or two deep, and so, protected by the trees, just covering the ground, continued nearly to the shores of the sound, where was neither snow nor ice. For about six miles on the summit the snow was found to be six feet deep, with an occa- sional depth of seven, as also of four feet. Eighteen inches to two feet of this fell on the night preceding the day on which I crossed the divide. The whole was light and dry like a mass of feathers, and the snow-shoes sunk through the fall of the preceding night, burying themselves nearly two feet, and making the travelling very laborious. ‘The weather, while making the pass- 24f 186 PASS OF THE COLUMBIA RIVER. age of the mountains, was generally clear and very cold. Immediately after reaching the west- ern slopes the weather became milder, soon damp, and finally, after passing Snoqualme Falls, rainy. The whole breadth of snow over twelve inches deep was some less than sixty miles in extent. Of this about forty-five miles were two feet and upwards ; about twenty miles were four feet and upwards ; and six miles were six feet and upwards. All of the snow was light and dry ; it was the accumulated snows of the winter to January 21, deposited in successive layers of from a few inches to two feet deep, which had generally lain undisturbed since their fall; and they present little obstruction to removal in comparison with the compact, drifted snows of the Atlantic States. The Yakima Indians with me, who were well acquainted with the route both in summer and winter, cached their snow-shoes only eighteen miles west of the summit, to be used when they went back to their country. They could not return there until as late as February 10, and evi- dently, at that place, expected no increase of snow during the interval of their absence. I see no well-grounded reason to apprehend that the regular running of railway trains would be hindered in winter from the snow in the Yakima Pass. My exploration was made for the purpose of getting the winter condition of the pass; and, as you are aware, I had no white man with me. I had previously been obliged to abandon my barometer and thermometer. I had with me only a pocket-compass, and, under the difficulties with which all such winter explorations are attended, could accomplish little more than what I have here set before you. From opinions of the route while passing over it, I think it probable that, with the shorter tunnel proposed by Captain McClellan—2.27 miles in length—we shall be able to pass the sum- mit with eighty-feet grades for a limited distance, say fifteen miles, or seven and a half miles ascent and seven and a half miles descent. I am, respectfully, your obedient servant, A. W. TINKHAM. Governor I. [. Stevens, In Command of Northern Pacific Railroad Survey, Se. . ReEPoRT ON THE RAILROAD PRACTICABILITY OF THE PASS OF THE COLUMBIA RIVER, BY MR. F. W. LANDER, CIVIL ENGINEER. Oxtympia, WasHiIncTron TERRtTOoRY, January 5, 1854. Sr: The high floods to which the Columbia river is subject are serious obstacles to obtaining the best location for cheap construction offered by its valley. From the danger to be appre- hended from them, it will be necessary to place the bed of the road at some distance above the ordinary level of the water, and thus incur the need of cutting deeply in many spurs and ledges. Tam of the opinion, however, that the general grade of the road will not exceed ten feet per mile; and the facilities for borrowing from the debris of the neighboring ledges a material needing no tool but the shovel, and the long stretches of prairie and bottom land that occur where an embankment road-bed may be used, protected from the action of the water by the simple means of placing the weightier material at its natural slope on the outer edge, will materially reduce cost. At eastern prices, the whole of this work, with the due amount of protective material, could be constructed at fifty cents per cubie yard; and, when built, would be unequalled in the grand points of facility of drainage and preservation of superstructure. It may become necessary to tannel the mountainous point termed Cape Horn. Passing this point by water, I was not able to obtain so fair a yiew of the opportunity afforded for the adjust- PASS OF THE COLUMBIA RIVER. 187 ment of the line in deflection to avoid it, or the severity of the changes of direction needed in curvature. I shall report more fully in regard to this matter after a careful examination on my way back. On so important a line as the proposed Pacific railroad, I should not recommend curvatures of less than two thousand feet radii, or a reverse within five hundred feet of the tangent point, save in extreme or nearly impracticable cases, which the latter is not. The tunnel would not exceed seven hundred feet, and would cost, at eastern prices, say sixty-five dollars per lineal foot a high estimate, when the character of the ledge is considered. The length of this tunnel, working both faces, does not hinder its construction in a short space of time; and Iam by no means certain that it is absolutely necessary. * * * * * * e * * * * * The greater facilities for applying large forces of laborers upon the river line, and thus for- warding it toan early completion, is an important item in obtaining a result; for the use of the rail in carrying supplies into the interior bears very fully upon the question of location for the first five hundred miles of the line, and will rule the cost of those portions of the route at a distance from communication; therefore, as abundant means of transportation as exist, by the navigable waters of the Columbia, should give their aid by artificial means for reaching the far interior, where leagues of prairie and many miles of shallow open cuttings will be ready for the rail before the great summit sections of the mountain passes are excavated. Contractors will study these questions very fully, as they materially influence both the cost of the road and the time of its completion. * * * * * * * * * x * You have directed me to estimate upon a bridge across the Columbia, at some point between Vancouver and the Cowlitz, for the purpose of affording the valley of the Willamette railroad com- munication with the terminus of the route by the Snoqualme. It is impossible to arrive at even an approximate estimate of the cost of such a structure until the width of the river at the favorable point is ascertained, the distance across the flats and their quality, the depth of sound- ings both of mud and water, the force of current, the effects of ice in spring freshets, &c., all of which must direct in planning the mode of bridging. I believe, however, that the river is shallow, and that a plain bridge of piling can be safely used for a large portion of the distance. Near the centre, by the aid of the coffer-dam, good piling foundations should be obtained for substantial piers of heavy masonry, and a few spans ot Howe’s truss give free passage to the water. I should think the probability of danger from ice in freshets, either in lifiing, piling, or crowning, not sufficient to deter us from attempting such a mode of structure; and, supposing the conclusions to be correct at the present rates of labor upon the Columbia, the prices of the work would range as follows, viz: First-class piling structure, at 80 cents per square foot, on upper bridge surface, for a road-bed of 20 feet, is per lineal foot of road $16—5,000 feet (piling)..-..--.-- $80,000 ie ats tigl OU OC MOOt, 4 00, Leek pare apafe oops a a = minstat aamlm aim erenive ariel ies 24,000 Wire and gap Pen Wages ae a cia hrs je cv ayeniapaynjele is japamac ac\ae seein stele ioterstsrars 25,000 Two first-class, large wing abutments; three deep-wa er piers and foundations; ge wing ; p P ; materials for masonry transported on road from Puget sound, which cost, say Pl Coe Bo SF aay Betts haves Shans pag Rate ustsgalaselays biale Ne acho ienss 80,000 $209,000 The Columbia can be bridged at the Cascades, and at several points above the Dalles, without obstructing navigation. * * * * * * * * ~ Lam, with respect, your obedient servant, F. W. LANDER. Gov. I. I. Sruvens, Chief N. P. R. Exploration and Survey. 188 GENERAL REPORT ON WESTERN DIVISION, GO GENERAL REPORTS OF THE SURVEY OF THE CASCADES. 7. GENERAL REPORT OF CAPTAIN GEORGE B. MCCLELLAN, CORPS OF ENGINEERS, U. S. A., IN COM- MAND OF THE WESTERN DIVISION. Otymria, W. T., February 25, 1853. Sir: Ihave the honor to submit the following report of the expedition under my command. The instructions under which it, was conducted will be found appended to this report. I arrived at Fort Vancouver on the 27th of June; but it was not until July 24 that the party fairly started. The season being late, our progress slow for the first few weeks, and the northern half of the range being entirely unknown, it was impossible to make more than a inere reconnaissance of the different passes, and it became necessary to push on towards the north, to determine whether any existed in that direction. Supposing that there would be less timber on the eastern than on the western slope of the rauge, and that the elevation of the plateau between the Rocky and Cascade mountains would facilitate our progress, I determined to gain the eastern slope as soon as possible; and then, moving as close to the mountains as practicable, strike in with small parties whenever a possi- bility of finding a pass presented itself. * Originally, I intended to follow the valley of the Columbia as far as that of the White Salmon, and to reach the eustern slope by following the latter valley. In consequence of the high stage of water in the Columbia, that trail was not yet practicable when we were ready to move. Being informed that there would be but little difficulty in following a trail direct from Vancouver to Mount St. Helen, and there cross the mountains, I determined to take that route. My party consisted of Lieut. J. K. Duncan, third artillery, astronomer, topographer, and draughtsman; Lieut. H. C. Hodges, fourth infantry, quartermaster and commissary; Lieut. S. Mowry, third artillery, meteorologist; Mr. George Gibbs, geologist and ethnologist; Mr. J. F. Minter, assistant engineer, in charge of courses, distances, &c.; Dr. J. G. Cooper, surgeon and naturalist; Mr. A. L. Lewes, assistant engineer and interpreter ; five assistants in observations, carrying instruments, &c.; two sergeants, two corporals, and twenty-four privates of fourth infantry—one sergeant being the quartermaster and commissary sergeant; one private doing duty as blacksmith. Six privates, whose terms of service expired shortly after we started, being employed as packers, the number of the escort and working party was reduced to three non- commissioned officers and seventeen privates. 'Two chief packers, three hunters and herders, and twenty packers, completed the party, which thus numbered sixty-five persons besides myself. Guides we took from place to place, as we could find them; for even among the Indians there were none who knew more than small portions of the country we traversed. There were 173 avimals with the command; 738 for the saddle; 100 for packing. Of the whole number, 46 were mules. The mules were generally very excellent; some of the horses good, but the greater part very indifferent Indian horses; the best, however, that could be procured at so short a notice. The pack-saddles with which we started were in part sent from San Francisco, partly purchased from the Hudson’s Bay Company; they were alike worthless. Fortunately, there were about fifty of the old-pattern Ringgold saddles at Vancouver, which we obtained; they answered admirably. As it was, we were greatly delayed by the frequent breaking of the others. The size of the party may seem too large; but from the nature of what little information we possessed at the time in reference to the country we were to traverse, the disposition of the Indians among whom we were to travel, and other circumstances which need not be mentioned, it seemed that the number was as small as it ought to be; especially when the practicability of detaching small parties was considered. GENERAL REPORT ON WESTERN DIVISION. 189 The packers were divided into brigades of two; each brigade having charge of from four to six animals. The command was armed with rifles and a few of Colt’s revolvers. The supply of instru- ments consisted of one sextant, a very good one; two chronometers—one indifferent, the other worthless; one level, a good instrument; one surveyor’s compass, indifferent; two Schmalcalder compasses, good instruments; two syphon barometers, good instruments; two syphon barome- ters, quite inferior; two aneroid barometers; two hygrometers; four thermometers. ‘These instru- ments were sent out in charge of Lieut. Duncan, before my arrival in Washington from Texas. Our only means of determining the longitude was by the method of lunar distances; the varia- tion of the needle by the Schmalcalder compasses. I will endeavor to make this report as brief and general as possible, referring to the accompany- ing documents for details. The topography of the country will be found in Lieut. Duncan’s map and memoir. Mr. Minter’s itinerary will show the obstacles met with on the march, daily distances, &c. For the meteorology and barometric profiles, I refer to Lieut. Mowry’s reports and drawings. Mr. Gibbs’s reports give the geology of the country and everything relating to the Indians. The natural history and hygiene of the country are discussed in Dr. Cooper’s reports. Ascertaining that the trail was obstructed by brush and fallen timber, I started in advance on July 22, with a small working party, leaving Lieut. Duncan in charge of the main party, with instructions to overtake me as soon as possible. I awaited the command at Yahkohtl; they arrived there on the 28th July. We were delayed at this place until the 31st in making new pack-saddles to replace those broken in this short distance. On the 1st of August we reached the Cathlapoot’l, followed its valley until the 5th, on which day we left it and crossed the dividing ridge. From Vancouver to the Cathlapoot’] there is but little to invite settlement. “With the exception of a few small tracts, the country is generally covered with dense forests and thick undergrowth ; the trees often attaining an immense size. Fir is the predominant tree; a few scattered cedars, oak, ash, elder, and maple, are met with. There could not well be a more abundant growth of berries than we found in this district: among them may be enumerated three kinds of the huckleberry—blue, purple, and red ; the blackberry, raspberry, thimble-berry, gooseberry, service- berry, salmon-berry, sahlalberry, and the Oregon grape; the wild cherry and hazle-nut also were seen. The valley of the Cathlapoot’l above, and at our crossing, is utterly worthless for any purpose. On the Yahkohtl river there are some three or four cascades, which may hereafter be of some value as water-powers. At the second camp after leaving Cathlapoot’l river, (Taunkamis,) we halted one day, our animals having suffered much from the almost entire absence of grass for four days. On the 8th we reached Chequos. On account of the animals I remained here two days, and occupied the time by taking observations, examining the vicinity, &c. From the mountains, near camp, there was a fine view of the country for a long distance in every direction ; five large snow mountains were in sight—Rainier, St. Helen, Adams, Hood, and Jefferson. The mountains in this part of the range are generally wooded ; they have steep slopes, but seldom present bold or rocky outlines. Forming an opinion from the confused nature of the mountains, and the courses of the streams, I thought the possibility of finding any suitable pass near St. Helen too slight to justify me in delaying here to make a more detailed examination, and determined to push on towards Mt. Rainier with as little delay as possible. A fair pack-trail might be made from Chequos to near the head of the Puyallup or Nisqually. From the Cathla- pool to Chequos, the country is mountainous and sterile. On the 11th August we left Chequos, reaching Atahnam on the 17th. Soon after leaving Che- quos the country assumes a new character; the yellow and pitch pine, with a few oaks, become the predominant trees ; the woods open, but little underbrush is seen, and the blue bunch-grass 190 GENERAL REPORT ON WESTERN DIVISION. makes its appearance. The soil is of the lightest character, and is but a few inches in depth, the whole of this portion of the country being underlaid by a sheet of lava. After travelling five days through a rough and timbered country, we, on the 6th, emerged from the woods into a barren country entirely destitute of timber. With the exception of narrow strips in some of the valleys, this district presents every indication of absolute worthlessness. In the Simkwe valley we first saw the wild sage ; prairie wheat aud dwarf sumach also occurred here, and were frequently seen afterwards in the valleys. None of the streams crossed between Chequos and Atahnam presented valleys that could give passes through the range. On the 17th August we encamped on the Atahnam, one and a half mile above the mission ; next day I visited the mission, and found there the Rev. Fathers Pandozy and d’Harbomey, with a lay-brother. The Atahnam mission is inhabited only during the summer ; in winter they establish themselves on the main Yakima, not far from the Columbia, the snow being less deep and the cold less intense in the latter situation. Here, on the simplest fare, with few or none of the comforts of life, with no society save that of the savages, these men are content to pass their time in endeavoring to extend their religion, aud improve the morals of their savage neighbors. I would here express my obligations to the priests for the cheerfulness with which they afforded all the information in their power, and their personal kindness to all the gentlemen of my party. At the mission, I was informed that a party of citizens were engaged in cutting a road through the Nahchess Pass; that this road was nearly finished, and that the old Indian trail to Steilacoom was practicable in four days. As there is but a scanty supply of grass in the Atahnam valley, I determined to move forward to the Wenass, a more central position, and affording abundant grass, there to make the new arrangements now become necessary. i Accordingly, having spent two days at Atahnam in obtaining information as to the country and Indians, jerking beef, &c., we started on the 20th August, and reached the Wenass on the same day. Finding that valley to be a suitable depét, I proceeded immediately to prepare the parties necessary to accomplish the purposes in view. On account of the uncertainty of the time neces- sary to examine the range, and the possibility of being caught near the northern boundary line by an early winter, I did not think it prudent to leave the Yakima for the north with less than three months’ provisions. I determined then to send in for a sufficient supply to insure this, while the examination of the mountains in the vicinity was in progress. From the information we received with regard to the road through the Nahchess Pass, it seemed certain that Steilacoom could be easily reached in five days: in addition, a reconnaissance of that line was important. That route was therefore selected for the provision train, and Lieutenant Hodges was detailed to command that party. Long before this it had become evident that our pack-horses were unfit for the service required of them, and there seemed to be good reasons for believing that there were many public mules at Fort Steilacoom; I therefore sent in no pack-mules, but all our pack-horses, with Lieu- tenant Hodges, giving him directions to exchange them, if possible, for mules. Lieutenant Hodges started from Wenass on the morning of the 22d with a party, consisting of Mr. Lewes—discharged at his own request on account of the necessity of his attending to some private business of importance—one non-commissioned officer, five privates, seventeen packers, and two employés, discharged on account of incapacity. Fifty pack-horses and the necessary saddle-animals accompanied this party. Lieutenant Duncan was directed to leave Wenass on the 24th, with a party of three men, to cross to the main Yakima, examine the upper part of that valley, and obtain all possible information in relation to the surrounding country, especially to the north. Mr. Gibbs was directed to examine the valley of the Yakima to its junction with the Columbia; to leave on the 25th, with one man and a guide. With Mr. Minter, and six men, I started on the 23d to examine the Nahchess Pass. ‘The remainder of the party, with the animals, were left in camp at Wenass, under charge of Lieutenant Mowry. On the 22d we received a visit from the priests, accompanied by Kamaiahkan, the principal chief of this country; they spent the night with us, and on the next morning I had a long “ talk” with Kamaiahkan, at the GENERAL REPORT ON WESTERN DIVISION. 191 close of which he received a handsome present. He expressed very friendly feelings, and I have no reason to doubt his sincerity, for, in a number of instances, he displayed an honesty not often found among Indians. Having finished the talk with the chief, I started to overtake my party, which had moved off some two hours before me. The trail led up the valley of the Wenass, for a few miles, and then crossed to the Nahchess. At the distance of a mile above the main camp the Wenass valley becomes quite narrow, the hills closing in; the grass continues good; the valley destitute of tim- ber, with the exception of the usual scanty fringe of cotton-wood and willow, until the trail leaves the main and passes up a lateral valley covered with an open growth of yellow pine. About half a mile above our camp were some quite large and good potato patches; indifferent corn and melons are also cultivated here by the Indians. Above this point the soil appears to be quite poor. The ascent of the dividing ridge is long and broken, but never very steep for any long distance, although the elevation of the summit is great. The mountains are generally coy- ered with yellow pine, never thick, nor with much underbrush; sometimes they present tracts of bare lava. The descent to the Nahchess is quite steep, and is generally wooded with the same timber. The soil on the divide is of the most inferior quality. We encamped this day about half a mile from the Nahchess, on a small spring branch. I will now, for a moment, omit the description of the Nahchess valley as we travelled up; merely state that on the 25th we reached and encamped upon the summit, and then take up the description of the valley from its junction with the Yakima, without reference to daily marches. To the distance of some twelve miles above its mouth, this valley varies from one mile to two miles in width, with one or two low terraces. There is no timber here; the fringe of bushy cotton-wood and willow being too insignificant to deserve the name. When the valley is not ‘covered with volcanic stones, it is, to all appearance, of the most miserable soil, generally covered with wild sage, and having but little grass. The hills are quite precipitous where they border the valley, and increase in height as they approach the main range. At the distance from the mouth above mentioned, the character of the valley undergoes an entire change. The hills by this time become mountains, close in upon the stream, so that the valley from here to the head is reduced, as a general rule, to a mere camion, occasionally widening out for short distances. The stream winds with very sharp curves. The cafons are often, for a mile or two in length, occu- pied to their whole width by the stream. The walls of these cafions frequently rise vertically to the height of 400 feet, the mountains coming boldly down to their edges. The walls are of solid rock—generally trap, or a compact igneous rock. The Indian trail is a very bad one—avoiding the valley, and keeping to the mountain-sides, where the ground is very stony; the ascents and descents long and steep—so much so, that it would not be possible to construct a wagon-road along the mountain-sides at any reasonable expense. ‘The road would, therefore, be forced into the valley, and necessarily be located at times in the water, besides requiring an almost endless number of crossings. Independently of the impossible grade necessary near the head of the valley, the amount of side-cutting in rock, embankment, sharp curves, deep cutting, and short tunnels, would render the construction of a railroad too difficult and expensive, if not impracticable. The timber (yellow pine) commences in the valley, about eighteen miles from the mouth. For some distance it is open, and, with the undergrowth, thick only in places. The nearer the divide is approached, the thicker the growth becomes—the underbrush and fallen logs more troublesome—and the yel- low pine gradually gives place to the white spruce, balsam-fir, &c., until, near the summit, it dis- appears. In all the openings of the valley the grass is good. Some fifteen miles east of the summit there is a chain of small marshy prairies, with excellent grass; and upon the mountains immediately south of the pass are some five or six prairies of a larger size, and similar nature, through which the trail passes. It may be well to mention here, once for all, that the Indian trails in these mountains seldom follow the valleys; they generally keep to the higher ground, where the woods are less dense; for the Indian prefers riding over a mountain, to the labor of cutting a 192 GENERAL REPORT ON WESTERN DIVISION. trail over more level ground. In other words, he has more consideration for himself than for his horse. The largest fork of the stream joins that up which the trail passes about 25 miles from the summit, and heads directly in Mt. Rainier; its valley is even more difficult than that of the trail. The elevation of the lowest point of the divide, above Vancouver, is 4,890 feet. In the last seven miles of the valley the ascent is 229 feet per mile. From the summit of the mount- ains, bordering the pass, there is a fine view of Mt Rainier. Exceedingly massive, it presents, from near the pass, the appearance of a long ridge with two peaks; the eastern one being rather the higher, and more rounded of the two. At a short distance above the snow-line there is a belt of jagged cones, extending the whole breadth of the mountain. Between the pass and Rainier, as well as to the west, the mountains are generally covered with timber; to the south and southeast, they are frequently bare of trees, quite rough, and with more or less snow upon them in August; but to the northward there is a vast sea of bare, jagged, snow- crowned ranges extending as far as the eye can reach. Proceeding westward, the trail soon descends by a very precipitous route into the valley of Green river; follows that as far as its juncture with the White river, (they form the S’kamish, or south fork of the D’Wamish,) and keeps to the S’kamish valley, about ten miles farther. To the point where the trail leaves this valley the country passed over is all of the same nature. The descent for the first twenty miles from the summit is very abrupt; the valley very narrow, much like that of the Nahchess, except that it is much more heavily timbered. The mount- ains approach the stream so often that frequent crossings are necessary. Portions of the S’kamish valley are very boggy; grass is almost entirely wanting for a dis- tance of at least fifty miles from the summit. From the S’kamish to the Puyallup, the country is a high plateau, much broken up by ridges and mountains. It is densely timbered with fir, but interspersed with prairies, the soil of some of which is good. The descent into and the ascent from the valley of the Puyallup are long and steep. From Puyallup, towards the Nisqually, the country is elevated, and although somewhat rolling, is by no means so rough as the section last described. This also is densely timbered and interspersed with prairies, which assume a more grave and sterile character as the sound is approached. The crossings of the streams on this trail are bad; the current being rapid, and the bottom covered with loose and rounded stones. Having satisfied myself of the impracticability of the Nahchess Pass for a railway communica- tion, I returned and reached the depot camp at Wenass late on the 29th. On the 31st I received a note from Lieutenant Hodges, in which he informed me that he had arrived when it was written, on the 27th, within twenty-five miles of Steilacoom; that he had been three days without grass, and was out of provisions; that sixteen horses had already broken down; that there were no mules to be had at Steilacoom; and that it would be perfectly impossible for him to bring out the number of rations I required. He desired instructions. { at once determined to send in the escort and reduce the party to the minimum, and wrote to him by an Indian express to that effect; also, directing him to discharge a certain number of his packers. Lieutenant Duncan returned about noon of this day, 31st, from the upper Yakima; Mr. Gibbs late in the afternoon, from the lower Yakima. Early on the 2d September, Lieutenant Mowry started for the Dalles with seventeen men, of whom but two were to return with him; he took in all collections made up to this time, and everything that could be dispensed with. On the 3d of September the depot camp was moved from the Wenass to Ketetas, on the main Yakima. On the morning of the 4th I left camp to examine the pass at the head of the main Yakima, with Mr. Gibbs, Mr. Minter, and six men. The camp was left under the care of Lieu- tenant Duncan, with directions 1o employ his available time in examining the country in the vicinity. Ireached and encamped upon the divide late on the 6th. Although a somewhat GENERAL REPORT ON WESTERN DIVISION. 193 detailed description of the valley of the Yakima is given in my railroad report, dated February 8, and it is described for a portion of its length in Lieutenant Duncan’s report, I will here describe the nature of the line, that it may the more readily be compared with the description of Nahchess Pass contained in this same report. The Yakima unites with the Columbia in a vast sage desert, extending to the north and north- east as far as the eye can reach; and the desolate, dark gray color of the sage is unbroken by the verdure of grass or trees. ‘The Columbia is here about four hundred yards in width, with sand and gravel banks thirty feet in height ; a placid current; here and there a cluster of willow bushes border the stream, usually destitute of vegetation. In the Yakima, at its mouth, are three islands covered with good grass—all that is to be found in the vicinity. Neither stone nor timber occurs in the neighborhood. The valley of the Yakima soon becomes more contracted by low hills, which gradually close upon it, and soon increase in height as the stream is ascended. ‘To the commencement of the pine timber, a distance of nearly one hundred miles from the mouth, the average width of the valley is about six miles, occasionally reduced to four or five hundred yards by spurs closing in on both sides, and sometimes widening out to ten miles. Cotton-wood and willow fringe the stream ; grass is generally confined to the water’s edge, but is not in sufficient quantity to adapt the valley to grazing purposes on a large scale. In some of the small lateral valleys good bunch-grass is found, as well as on the summits of the highest ridges and _ hills. But the winters are too severe for cattle to thrive in the open air, the whole country being covered with snow ; and, in addition, the bunch-grass is of too scanty a growth to be cut for hay. During the winter the Indians drive their horses and cattle to the most sheltered spots, where they teed on wild sage and willow. As far up as Ketetas the wild sage covers the valley in all parts a little back from the water. The general character of the soil is sandiness, or exceeding lightness; occasionally gravelly, or covered with loose stones. It might in many places answer well for small grains, when compared with the greater part of the territory. By reference to the map, it will be observed that Mr. Gibbs returned from the mouth of the Yakima to Wenass by a trail to the north of the river valley. From the point where he left the Yakima, his trail passed through a wide valley for some twenty-four miles; this valley is somewhat undulating and is very barren, being almost entirely destitute of grass, having no timber, but one little pool of water sixteen miles after leaving the Yakima, and that brackish; it is covered with the usual growth of sage. The trail then enters a canon with basaltic walls, and gradually ascends until the summit is reached, in about eight miles. Grass occurs near the summit; also, a few small pools of brackish water. The trail now gradually descends towards the west into a broad valley, which unites with that of the Yakima. In this valley the grass is good; there are a few small pools of brackish water, but no timber. This trail is not practicable for a railway, but would make a good wagon road, were it not for the absence of wood and scarcity of water. The upper forty-five miles of the valley are wooded with yellow pine, gradually replaced towards the summit by white spruce, &c. The width is considerably less than below, averaging from one to two miles ; it is always wide enough, however, to make a good road, perfectly practicable, although it is at present much obstructed by fallen timber and dense underbrush. Occasional prairies afford an abundance of grass for travelling purposes to near Lake Kitchelus. The soil is less sandy and more gravelly than below. By reference to the map it will be seen that the Yakima and two of its branches head in lakes. These are surrounded by rough and lofty mountains, rising directly from the water’s edge, and many of them having snow upon them in August. The lakes are apparently of great depth; the large salmon are found in most of them at the proper season. But a short distance above Lake Kitchelus—above its foot, rather—the trail leaves the valley and passes westward over a very steep and lofiy mountain, a portion of the dividing ridge. The pass is through a gorge at the foot and to the north of this mountain. At the summit of the pass, 25 Ff 194 GENERAL REPORT ON WESTERN DIVISION. which is here about one hundred yards wide, there is a small Jake, some two hundred yards long, fed by numerous springs, and surrounded by good grass. In this little lake two streams have their source ; one is the head of the Nooksai Nooksai, which runs into the D’ Wamish and Puget sound; the other into Lake Kitchelus and the Yakima, first passing through a lake nearly one mile long, called by the Indians Willailootzas. To the northward of the pass the mountains are very lofty, generally bare at the top, often of solid rock, with sharp outlines, most of them with considerable snow upon them. As far as the eye can determine, there is no possibility of effecting a passage in that direction; and there certainly is none between this and the Nahchess Pass. The descent from the pass towards the west is down the narrow, steep, and thickly-wvoded valley of the Nooksai Nooksai, bordered by rough and high mountains. At the distance of about twenty-five miles from the pass the stream empties into Lake Nook-noo; a sheet of water some four miles in length, at the foot of which there is a considerable fall. The stream then passes through a thickly-timbered and quite level country, into the D’Wamish, which empties into El- liott bay near Seattle. This country will be described more in detail in another connexion. Before leaving the subject of the main Yakima Pass, it should be stated that there is a foot trail leading from the head of Lake Kitchelus to the head of the south fork of the Snoqualme. The Indians represent this as practicable on foot with the greatest difficulty, and that it is seldom used, although much nearer the Snoqualme Falls than by the ordinary horse trail ; in fact, there is no trail, properly so called—merely a possibility for an unencumbered and active man to get through there. The size and shape of the mountains seem to verify the truth of their statement. More detailed information as to the nature of the pass, the nature of the Yakima river, the quantity of snow, &c., will be found in my railway report of February 8, already referred to. The quantity of snow in the pass is there stated at from twenty to twenty-five feet ; the data for that conclusion are there given, and are still believed to be reliable. Lake Willailootzas is subject to rises of some fifteen feet above its level at the time we visited it. Its outlet is subterranean in low water and makes its appearance some three hundred yards from the lake; when the lake is full it passés over. About a mile below Lake Kitchelus the Yaki- ma (or Yah-inse, as it is here called) is some twenty yards in width and about two feet deep, flowing with a rapid current over a bed of cobble stones. The banks are of gravel and about ten feet high; the river does not appear to overflow its banks; it gradually increases in size until, at Ketetas, it is about forty yards wide and three feet deep at the fords; near the mouth it be- comes about one hundred yards wide at low water. In many parts of its course it is divided by sand and gravel bars into several channels, and is liable to great rises in the spring. Ac- cording to the Indians, the snow is knee-deep at the mouth in severe winters; at Ketetas, to the middle of the thigh in ordinary winters; for some miles before reaching the mountains, it is six feet deep; in the gorges and passes, from twenty to twenty-five feet ; and in peculiar local- ities, even more. In the timbered country the snow-marks seemed to prove the truth of these statements. ‘ Having completed the examination of the pass, as far as the time at my disposal would permit, J rejoined the main party at Ketetas on the 12th September. On our arrival at camp we found some of the party in a high state of excitement; they had found gold in small quantities on the margin of the stream, and were most industriously seeking for more. ‘The fever soon abated, as the returns were not very remunerative. During our ab- sence a large Yakima village had sprung up near our camp; it was the band of Owhai, one of the very best Indians with whom we met during the trip. Lieutenant Mowry had returned from the Dalles on the 10th. “I will condense from his report a description of the country over which he passed. As already stated, he moved from Wenass on the 2d; he followed the trail passed previously over by the main party as far back as some three miles beyond the Sahpeniss, with the exception of GENERAL REPORT ON WESTERN DIVISION. 195 crossing the divide between the Atahnam and Simkwee, opposite the mission. From the Atah- nam to the Dalles there were three trails; the most eastern is the longest—leaving the Atah- ham near its mouth, and making a large bend to the eastward—but it is the only one practicable in winter. Of the other two, the most western is the shortest and best in summer. Lieutenant Mowry followed this last trail. Leaving our old trail at a point three miles south of the Sahpeniss crossing, the Dalles trail passes for half a mile through open woods, then for a quarter of a mile through the northern extremity of a fine prairie ; on leaving which, it again enters the open woods and ascends a difficult hill some fifteen hundred feet in height; then over a rolling country, and descends into a second prairie about two and a half miles from the first. Lieutenant Mowry describes this prairie as extending a considerable distance to the south and east; as being covered with excellent grass; as having a fine spring near his camp; and as possessing the richest soil he had seen in the Territory. For the next twenty-four miles the country is covered with open woods of pine and spruce ; occasionally small prairies are met with, which, as well as the woods, furnish a thin growth of bunch-grass for the first seventeen miles; in the last seven miles the grass disappears. Four small streams are crossed in these twenty-four miles. The country is generally a high, rolling tract; the trail, during the last few miles, skirts the western slope of a lofty range of hills. The remaining distance to the Dalles is destitute of timber, with the excep- tion of a strip half a mile broad, at the distance of about ten miles from the Columbia. Imme- diately north of this strip there is a fine prairie, varying trom two to four miles in-width, several miles long, covered with excellent grass, and watered by a fine stream. On this prairie stands a good log-house, belonging to Skloo, brother to Kamaiahkan, and one of the principal chiefs of the Yakimas. South of this last strip of woods the country is at first rolling, and then sinks into a prairie, which extends to the base of the range of high hills bordering the Columbia. Good bunch-grass exists as far as the foot of the range, which is very high, exceedingly difficult of as- cent and descent ; much broken by cations, outcropping of basalt, and has but a scanty growth of grass upon it. During the three days that elapsed between my return to Ketetas and Lieut. Hodges’ arrival, several small parties were engaged in searching the neighboring streams for gold, examining the country, &c.; no rich deposits of gold were found. On the 16th September Lieutenant Hodges arrived from Steilacoom. He brought with him twenty-nine pack-horses loaded with provisions. He was eleven days on the march from Steila- coom to Ketetas. Had it been possible to foresee the length of time necessary for the train to return from Steilacoom, a longer time might have been bestowed upon the examination of the Yakima Pass. I regretted that it should be so short, but felt obliged to retrace my steps in time to reach the depot camp about one day after the probable time of Lieutenant Hodges’ arrival; besides, I at that time hoped to find a better pass than the one in question, farther to the north. It being now determined to send into the Dalles all the indifferent animals that could, under the new arrangement, be dispensed with, the 17th and 18th were employed in arranging packs, &c., and in making the preparations for the main party to move northward and the spare animals to be sent in. On the 19th September I despatched one corporal, one private, (just dis- charged,) and one civilian packer to the Dalles, in charge of thirty-two miserable horses. On the same day the main party moved to Nahnum, at the northern edge of Ketetas valley. The command now consisted of thirty-six persons, including myself; forty-two riding animals ; fifty-two pack animals. The animals were mostly a good deal recruited by this time; the train in good order; the party well armed, and supplied with about seventy days’ provisions. On the morning of the 20th we commenced the passage of the mountains between the Yakima and the Columbia; this range, which from the valley of the Yakima seemed but an ordinary ridge, proved to be a difficult mountain range. We had expected to find the country north of this range rather level, or, at most, rolling and covered with open pine woods. Our surprise may be imagined when the view spread before us from a commanding point, a little below the summit, 196 GENERAL REPORT ON WESTERN DIVISION. is described. Five thousand two hundred feet below us lay the Columbia, apparently almost at our feet: so small and insignificant did it appear, that we could not believe it to be the “Great river.” In front of us the Cascade range extended directly to the river, crossing it in fact; so that, to the north and west, there was nothing to be seen but mountain piled on mountain— rugged and impassable. About west-northwest was a handsome snow-peak, smaller than Mount Baker; as it is not to be found on any previous map that I know of, and had no name, I called it Mount Stuart. Far in the distance to the northward was seen a range, running nearly east and west, alongside of which the Columbia flows before reaching Okinakane. That portion of the Cascade range which crosses the Columbia sinks into an elevated plateau, which extends as far as the limit of vision to the eastward—this is the Spokane plain. On it we could see no indication of water; not a single tree, except on the mountain spur; not one spot of verdure. It was of a dead, yellowish hue, with large clouds of black blending into the general tinge. It appeared to be a sage desert, with a scanty growth of dry bunch-grass, and frequent outcroppings of basalt. Descending by a very steep trail, we reached the valley of the Columbia on the 21st. Through a valley about a mile in breadth, in which not a tree is to be seen, and seldom even a bush, and which is bordered by steep walls of trap, lava, and sandstone, often arranged in a succession of high plateaux or steps, the deep, blue water of the Columbia flows with a rapid, powerful current; it is the only life-like object in this desert. The character of the valley is much the same as far as Fort Okinakane. It occasionally widens out slightly; again it is narrowed by the mountains pressing in. ' Sometimes the trail passes over the Jower bottom; at other, over very elevated and extensive terraces; and in a few places over dangerous points of the mountains. At one of the latter, three miles above the En-te-at-kwu, two of our mules were instantaneously killed by falling over a precipice, and two others seriously injured. The difficulty of the trail at this point may be imagined from the fact that we were occupied from 11 o’clock a. m., until dark, in passing the train over a distance rather less than two miles. Tn this portion of the valley a few small groves of pine are met with; but the general character is entire absence of trees and bushes. In places only is the grass good; but we found no great difficulty in so regulating the marches as to obtain enough for the animals. The soil is so very sandy that it is not probable it can ever be applied to any useful purpose. Granite, gneiss, and syenite, occur in the valley in large quantities, and of excellent quality. At the time of our visit the Columbia was 371 yards wide just above the mouth of the Pisquouse; at the camp of Sep- tember 23d its width was 329 yards, the surface velocity 3.6 miles, mean velocity 2.9 miles per hour; at the camp of September 24th the width was 330 yards, surface velocity 3.45 miles per hour; mean velocity 2.94 miles per hour. These velocities were taken at points where the strong current is near the shore; we had no means of reaching the middle of the stream, so that the velocities as given may be‘a little less than the true velocity. The beach between high and low-water mark is composed of rounded pebbles. From the vicinity of the Yakima Pass I saw the rough mountains in which the Pisquouse heads ; from the divide between it and the Yakima we saw the country through which it runs. From the inferences thence drawn, and the accounts of the Indians, as well as the nature of the valley near its mouth, it appears certain that there can be no pass at its head for a road. The next stream worthy of notice is the En-te-at-kwu. This has so small a valley—a mere ravine in fact—as to cut off all access to the dividing ridge in that direction. The next water-course is that issuing from Lake Chelan. It is a short stream, formed of a succession of cascades and rapids. he lake itself is some thirty miles long, and is shut in by high mountains, which leave no passage along its margin; the mountains at its head will be alluded to in connexion with the Methow river. Before leaving the subject of this lake, I will state that the ascent from the valley of the Columbia to Lake Chelan could not be accomplished by a railway without an inclined plane, even were there a good pass up its valley. GENERAL REPORT ON WESTERN DIVISION. 197 On the 27th September we reached Fort Okinakane, and encamped on the Okinakane river, about one and a half mile from the fort, and not far above the site of Astor’s old trading-house. The fort consists of three log buildings, surrounded by a stockade in the form of a square, with block-houses at the extremities of one diagonal. But little business is now transacted here. It is in charge of Mr. Lafleur, the “garrison” consisting of two Kanakas. The post is situated on the river bank, and on the edge of the plain between the Okinakane and the Columbia. Neither grass, nor bushes, nor trees are to be found around the fort—nothing but bare sand and gravel; it is evidently located with a view to the convenience of passing boats, and with no reference to the comfort of its unfortunate occupants. Riding with Mr. Lafleur to the summit of the mountain behind the fort, I obtained a good view of the Cascade range. The mountains came down to the Columbia and Okinakane, cross- ing the latter, and all rough and sharp. Mr. Lafleur informed me that there was no pass between Mt. Baker and the Hudson’s Bay Company’s trail from Okinakane to Langley. This our subsequent examination verified. The information received here confirmed me in my pre- vious intention of examining the Methow river, for they told me there was a good foot trail lead- ing up that valley and over to the sound. Leaving some of our most fatigued animals and many of our loads to the care of Mr. Lafleur, we left the camp on the morning of the 28th. On the 30th we encamped upon the Twitsp, the south fork of the Methow. I was by this time quite*certain that this route would not answer for a railway, but determined to keep on upon the same trail myself until the question could be fairly settled. Lieut. Duncan was directed to return to the forks with the main party, and to examine the main stream with a small party, following it as far as it was practicable. On the 31st I followed the valley of the Twitsp about four miles above our camp; here the stream forked, the north fork rising a few miles farther on in a high, bare ridge of granitic mountains ; the south fork, Nahai-el-ix-on, coming down a narrow and precipitous ravine. Our trail led up this ravine. Before proceeding much farther the valley became impassable for animais. I then went for- ward on foot until there was no longer any doubt as to the impracticability of the route. The barometrical profile will indicate the results. The trail is said to pass from this ravine, over a very difficult country, to the stream emptying into the head of Lake Chelan, then to cross very steep and lofty mountains at the head of that stream, and finally to reach the Skagitt river on the western slope. The results of Lieutenant Duncan’s reconnaissance were equally unfavorable. On the 4th of October we reached Fort Okinakane, returning by the valley of the Methow to its mouth. During both our visits to Fort Okinakane we were treated with the greatest kindness by Mr. Lafleur, and we are under many obligations to him for his courtesy. On the 5th October we left Fort Okinakane, followed the valley of the Okinakane river, and on the 9th reached our most northern camp, about thirteen miles south of the “Great Lake,” in latitude 49° 26’; the weather, unfortunately, did not permit observations at this point, so that the latitude could not be determined with exactness. From its mouth to the forks the Okinakane valley is generally a wide one; in a few places it so much contracted as to force the trail over spurs, but as a general rule we passed over wide terraces. The soil is light, the grass generally good, and no timber in the valley. There is a fall of inconsiderable height thirty miles above the mouth; quite a number of rapids occur, but they are seldom bad. No stream of any conse- quence enters the Okinakane from either side below the forks; so that there is no possibility of there being any pass through the mountains between the Methow and the Millakitekwu, (the west fork,) especially as the mountains become very high and rugged a short distance back from the valley. The Millakitekwu may be said to have no valley ; for it runs through an immense ravine, with a canon of great depth bounding the bed of the stream. Its nature is such as to render it 198 GENERAL REPORT ON WESTERN DIVISION. impracticable for a road of any kind. The descent of this stream is rapid; at five miles from the mouth is a pretty fall of probably ten feet: as we were obliged to view it from an elevation of some three hundred feet, we could form no correct estimate of its height. ‘There are no trees in this ravine ; its soil is of sand and gravel. The valley of the Sahtlilkwa (east fork) is generally a broad one, but is almost entirely filled with lakes and marshes. As far as the Great lake it presents a route practicable from the Columbia, with difficulties at some points; as it leads to nothing, and communicates with no pass to Frazer’s river, it is not a subject for consideration. The Hudson’s Bay trail from the Okinakane to Fort Langley leaves the Sahtlilkwu a short distance above our camp of the 8th, and after crossing a mountain ridge enters the valley of the Millakitekwu, follows that for a considerable distance, and then crosses the mountain into the valley of Frazer’s river. It is represented by all who have travelled it as an execrable and just practicable trail, as followmg no pass, but crossing directly over the mountains. On the tenth I left the main party in camp, and with all of the officers and two of the gentle- men rode to the Great lake, returning the same day. Upon an attentive consideration of the more important points of what has already been said, I think it will be very evident that there is but one pass through the Cascade range, from the Columbia to the northern boundary—that of the main Yakima—that is at all practicable for a railway ; nor am I aware of any reason for believing any to exist between that boundary and Thompson’s river. In the event of any future surveys of the Cascade range for railway purposes, the whole force may safely be thrown upon the main Yakima Pass and that of the Columbia. I now considered the most important part of my duty performed, having carried the reconnaissance of the Cascade range somewhat into British territory. The winter was now close at hand, the weather becoming cold, and the snow increasing rapidly in the mountains. Our animals showed unmis- takable signs of the effects of their very difficult service, and the pass of the Columbia was still to be examined. As nothing but geographical information could now be gained by a longer delay in the mountains, I determined to leave the range and move for Colville. The route selected was that from the forks of the Okinakane to the head of Ne-hoi-al-pit-kwu, or Colville river, and down that stream to the Columbia; a portion of the country known only to the employés of the Hudson’s Bay Company. I hoped on my arrival at Colville to receive some intelligence of the progress of your party, or even to meet you in person by a lucky chance. It was also my determination, if nothing had occurred making it necessary for me to keep on to the Rocky mountains with the whole or a portion of my party, to make an examination of the country in the vicinity of the Grand Coulée, the approaches to the mouth of the Yakima, &c., and finally to return to Vancouver by the ¢rail down the Columbia valley. On the 11th we turned back; left the Okinakane on the 12th at the forks; reached the head of one branch of the Ne-hoi-al-pit-kwu on the 13th, and arrived opposite Colville on the 17th. This trail is impracticable for a railway, although a wagon road could be carried over it, with con- siderable difficulty, at some points. The soil in this district was the best we saw. Fine larch trees abound. Soon after our arrival in camp opposite Colville, Mr. Angus Macdonald, the gentleman in charge ofthe post, came over to our camp, and kindly undertook to provide the canoes neces- sary for crossing our baggage next day. By midday of the 18th all our stores and baggage were safely landed on the left bank of the river, and all of our animals had crossed in safety. ‘Three small canoes, two of them of birch bark, were the only ones available. We encamped at an excellent place about half a mile from the fort. At the place where our animals swam the river, the current is very rapid and the river very deep; it is a good crossing for animals passing from the right bank to the left, but very dangerous for any crossing in the opposite direction. The valley of the Columbia is here well GENERAL REPORT ON WESTERN DIVISION. 199 timbered with yellow pine, and is by no means so rough and forbidding as near Fort Okinakane. The fort is situated somewhat back from the river bank, in a pocket or widening of the valley. Of all the Hudson’s Bay posts in this Territory, Fort Colville stands next to Vancouver in size and importance. The soil in the vicinity of Colville is better than it generally is throughout the Territory ; but it is said to be soon exhausted. Not a particle of information had been received at Colville in regard to any of your parties. When I had about made up my mind to push for St. Mary’s with two or three men, I was agreeably surprised by your arrival on the 18th. Every possible kindness was extended to my party by Mr. Macdonald. Coming thus under your immediate orders, I of course abandoned my original intention as to the completion of the expedi- tion, and merely carried out your instructions. I left Colville on the 22d, and reached a camp on a small branch of the Spokane on the 26th. As you remember, we were here joined on the 28th by Lieutenant Donelson, with the main party of the eastern division of the survey. Leaving this camp on the 30th, I crossed Lewis’ fork on the 4th November, having followed the same trail as that taken by Lieutenant Donelson up to this point. The crossing was effected without the loss of either animals or baggage—in perfect safety. From this crossing I took a different trail to Wallah-Wallah from that followed by Lieutenant Donelson; we passed by Dr. Whitman’s old mission. This trail, though somewhat longer than Lieutenant Donelson’s, is a much better one; the first march to water is muchshorter. We reached Wallah-Wallah on the 7th, and left next day for the Dalles, following the river trail as far as the Des Chutes crossing. Reached Fort Dalles on the 15th November. The description of the country from Fort Colville to the Dalles is fully given in Lieutenant Dunean’s report, and will doubtless be found in your own report as well as that of Lieutenant Donelson; and as it is by no means an unexplored country, I have not thought it necessary to touch upon the subject. Upon arriving at the Dalles, my animals were too much worn out to be able to carry loads down the river trail at that advanced state of the season; the rains had already set in at Vancouver: for these and other reasons I determined to send the animals down without loads, and to take water transportation for the party. The animals started on the 17th; the party in the small steamer Allen on the same day. We reached the Cascades that evening, and arrived at Fort Vancouver late in the night of the 18th November, having come down from the Cascades in open boats. It rained heavily during the whole of our passage. The animals reached Vancouver in six days from Fort Dalles. Two were drowned in crossing a creek not far from Vancouver; their condition on their arrival was such as to prove that they could not have accomplished the trip with loads. In my railway report will be found my opinion of the Columbia River Pass. At Vancouver my party was broken up, and the portion required for office work was sent to Olympia. Being greatly delayed in making arrangements necessary for the disposition of my own and other parties, it was only on the 16th December that I arrived at Olympia, by way of the Cowlitz. On the 23d I lefi Olympia, with Mr. Minter and a small party, for Steilacoom, in a canoe. My intention was to endeavor to complete the barometrical profile of the main Yakima Pass, and examine the approaches on this side. At Steilacoom I found it impossible to make any arrangements for land transportation—the Indians representing the road impracticable for animals at that season; I therefore determined to proceed by water to the falls of the Snoqualme, and thence as far as it might seem advisable on foot. I left Steilacoom on the 29th with two canoes, reached the mouth of the Sinahomish on the 1st January, and arrived within a mile of the Snoqualme Falls on the 7th January. We proceeded but a few miles above the falls on foot; the trail was entirely obliterated; no Indian could be induced to accompany me to the pass as a guide. The barometer with which I was furnished had proved entirely worthless; and from the information obtained, there seemed to be no possibility of proceeding farther than Lake Nook-noo; I therefore concluded that no object would be attained by keeping on, at all com- 200 GENERAL REPORT ON WESTERN DIVISION, mensurate with the difficulty of the undertaking, and determined to retrace my steps. The Indians represented the snow to be up to the arm-pits at the Nook-noo, and as increasing thence to the pass, at the summit of which it would be found to be about twenty-five feet indepth. Mr. Tinkham found but seven feet at the summit on the 21st of January; yet Iam of the opinion that in the most unfavorable portions of ordinary winters the statement of the Indians will be found to be quite near the truth; at all events, I do not think that any important conclusion should be based on the results of Mr. Tinkham’s trip; they ought to be verified later in the year, and, if possible, during a winter not so unusually dry as this was up to the time of Mr. Tinkham’s passage. For a winter station, with the object of examining the depth of snow, the prairie at the foot of the Nook-noo falls would be a proper position. The valley of the Sinahomish and Snoqualme is of pure sand, covered with an inch or two of decomposed vegetable matter, with the exception of a small prairie on the right bank of the Snoqualme, some ten miles below, and a larger one about two miles above the falls. There may be more of these small prairies of which I heard nothing. Some are said to exist on the Skywhamish. The bluffs of the stream are generally of sand, clay, and gravel; occasionally of conglomerate and argillaceous rock. If there is any coal near the Sinahomish it will probably be found at some distance from the river, in a bluff about twelve miles from the mouth. The timber in the valley is generally poor; it principally consists of cotton-wood, maple, and alder: the fir and cedar are generally very indifferent ; in some small tracts they are good. The bottom is usually wide, flat, and subject to overflow. There are extensive cranberry swamps near the mouth of the Sinahomish. This stream has three outlets, and has formed a low, sandy delta. The Sinahomish is navigable for small steamers for about twelve miles from its mouth; it forks about eighteen miles trom the mouth, the Skywhamish being rather the larger fork of the two. Below the forks the average width of the Sinahomish is some fifty yards. The Snoqualme is much obstructed by rapids, which increase in number and strength as the falls are approached. I estimated the height of the falls at from one hundred and thirty to one hundred and fifty feet ; they are exceedingly beautiful. The ledge over which the river passes at this point is of conglomerate. Similar falls exist at the foot of Lake Nook-noo, on the Skywhamish, the Stoluquamish, and Skagitt. On the 12th we encamped on the head of MacDonough’s island, intending to proceed to Bellingham bay; but during that night six inches of snow fell, and during the next day so violent a gale blew from the north that our canoes could not proceed. On the 14th we turned back, and reached Olympia on the 21st of January. During this trip the weather was intensely cold, the thermometer being as low as zero; we endured some discomfort from snow, cold rains, and sleet. Before I left Vancouver for Olympia, Mr. Gibbs went to Astoria with the intention of attempting to pass from there, via Shoalwater bay and the Willopah river, direct to Olympia. The trail being entirely overgrown by vine maple, it was impossible for him to get through at that season of the year with the provisions he was obliged to carry ; it became necessary for him to turn back before he reached the head of the Willopah. His report on the subject will give the detailed informa- tion he obtained with regard to that section of the country. I will merely state that the valley of the Willopah is about thirty miles long, by some ten or twelve in breadth; it is thickly over- grown with vine maple, and occasional large trees; the soil is rich, though somewhat light. On the Chebalis are a number of prairies, many of good soil, especially on the south fork. The whole country is, with the exception of these prairies, densely overgrown with fir, cedar, and spruce. There are many mountain ridges, some of which are quite extensive. The south fork of the Chehalis and Gray’s river head in a quite high peak. In my railroad report of February Sth, I gave my reasons for considering Seattle as the best terminus for a railway on the eastern shore of the sound. In any future examinations it would be advantageous to examine a line leading to Port Discovery. The advantages of that harbor, GENERAL REPORT ON WESTERN DIVISION. 201 both as to its situation and its facilities for perfect defence, by permanent works, entitle it to consideration. It seems to be fully adapted to the purpose of a great naval establishment. The country through which we passed to the east of the Cascade range may be described as generally barren and unfit for agriculture, and poor for grazing purposes. There are two small tracts which are exceptions to this rule; but I know of none which would be considered good in our western States. The yellow pine on the slopes of the mountains may be carried down the principal streams into the Columbia, and thence rafted or “run” to the head of navigation; the larch, between the Okinakane and Colville, can be hauled to the streams of the same names, and rafted to the Columbia; the building-stones in the vicinity of the Pisquouse will some day be available for the market ; but labor must become more cheap and abundant, capital more plenty, before these can become important interests. The Indians are harmless and peaceable; with the exception of the Yakimas, they are very poor. Their food consists of salmon, berries, and potatoes. The entire absence of game renders it difficult for them to obtain good clothing; during the whole trip I did not see a single deer, elk, or bear—nothing larger than a wolf. Wolves, badgers, squirrels, and a few gray marmots, were the only quadrupeds. The blue and ruffled grouse, prairie chicken, and sage-fowl, abounded. To the west of the mountains the country is covered with dense fir timber, interspersed with prairies or lakes. The only good land I have seen is in the valleys of the Columbia and Cowlitz, and of some of that string of prairies which skirt the mountains from the Columbia at least as far as the Skywhamish. The Willopah and Chehalis have also good land upon them. The prairies near the sound are uniformly of gravel, barren and worthless. Lumber and the fisheries must constitute the great interests of this portion of the Territory. The Indian names of these streams, lakes, prairies, &c., were carefully obtained by Mr. Gibbs during the trip. They have been adopted in the map and the reports as preferable to any names we could give them; partly for the purpose of endeavoring to perpetuate them, and partly for the reason that they will be of service to persons travelling through the country. During the exploration the astronomical observations were principally taken by Lieutenant Duncan; they are as accurate as the instruments at our disposal would permit. ‘The only astro- nomical phenomenon worthy of note was the existence of a comet, seen from Wenass, on the 21st, 22d, and 23d of August. It was visible but for a short time after dark, and was so low that the altitude could not be taken. The tail was 53’ 10” in length. At 8h. 56m. 59s. (mean time) on the 21st, its bearing by compass was north 75° west, the variation of the needle being 17° 30’; its observed distance from Urs Majores at 9h. 6m. 6.7s. (mean time) was 67° 54! 35”. On the 22d its bearing by compass at Sh. 3m. 09.5s. (mean time) was north 84° west, variation of the needle as before ; its distance from Jupiter at 8h. 13m. 17s. was 9° 41/ 35”; from Arcturus at Sh. 18m. 25.9s., was 36° 29! 05”. For geographical purposes but little additional information is needed concerning the eastern slope of the mountains. A somewhat closer examination of the Pisquouse, Chelan and Millekitekwu, as well as astronomical observations with better instruments than were at my disposal, would be interesting. With regard to the western slope, much additional information is still desirable as to the courses of the streams, of which but little is known. The accompanying map will be found more accurate than any which has preceded it. It is believed that no important stream on the western slope is omitted; when none of the party have crossed or followed them, they are given from the best Indian and other information. From Bellingham bay and the vicinity of MacDonough’s island we saw the direction of many of these valleys, and learned where they headed, with reference to streams on the eastern slope, the number and position of the branches, &c.; the streams as given will be found, I think, not to differ very materially from the truth. The map will, at least, serve as a basis of operations for any future survey. In the event of any de- tailed examination of the country in the future, the work should be performed by several very small parties, each the smallest in number that can use the necessary instruments. On the east- 26 f 202 GENERAL REPORT ON WESTERN DIVISION. ern side they should be provided with good mules, but do most of the mountain work on foot. The only supplies to be had in the country are salmon, berries, and potatoes. ‘here is no dan- ger to be apprehended from the Indians, however small the party may be. On the western side the exploration should be made by ascending the rivers in canoes, examining the country at the heads of and between the streams on foot. Some little game may be depended upon on this side. More caution will here be required among the northern Indians, although a small party may safely go among them. An examination of the Olympus range, and the lower Chehalis, would also be very desirable to develop the resources of the country, as well as for geographical informa- tion. That survey also should be made in canoes and on foot; rather larger parties would here be necessary—about ten men in each. In submitting the accompanying sub-reports, mentioned in the beginning of this, | would state that they are necessary to a full understanding of my own. I have endeavored to avoid all unnecessary detail, leaving to those gentlemen the full explanation of their respective provinces. I am glad to state that they have done such full justice to their sub- jects that no word of commendation from me is necessary; their reports are of more interest than my own, and can safely be left to stand the test of their own merits. I cannot, however, be equally silent with regard to their conduct while associated with me in the field. Their duty was not only performed with intelligence, but with alacrity and cheerfulness. Lieutenant Dun- can possesses the qualities to conduct any expedition like this. Lieutenant Hodges was an ener- getic and systematic quartermaster; he conducted his difficult march to Steilacoom in the most satisfactory manner. Lieutenant Mowry performed his duty excellently, and left nothing of it, that I desired, undone. I have no hesitation in saying that no one could have been found who could have made so complete and excellent a report upon Indian matters as that of Mr. Gibbs, His report upon the geology will show the care with which he pursued this portion of his duty ; in addition to this, he has more than once conducted important reconnaissances with great benefit to the survey. The courses and distances, so important to the correctness of the map, and so difficult to be obtained in the country we traversed, were taken by Mr. Minter with a care and judgment that left nothing to be desired; on other points, also, his good judgment was of great assistance. Dr. Cooper was unfortunate in having a field so destitute of animated beings as was the scene of our operations; but, such as it was, he used it to the best advantage. We were fortunate in hav- ing but few cases of sickness. In those that did occur, the Doctor showed himself to be perfectly familiar with his profession. The non-commissioned officers and men composing the escort uni- formly conducted themselves in a manner to do credit to themselves and to their regiment. It was with great regret that I parted with them at Wenass. The civil employés were almost all very excellent men, who understood and performed their duty well. When we were fairly started, there was no trouble among them. As to those re- tained upon the reduction of the party, there was scarcely one who was not all that could be desired in his position. Had I the same duty to perform again, but few alterations would be made in the party, so well and cheerfully did they do all that was required. I must express my appreciation of their excellent and subordinate conduct, and of my good fortune in having so ex- cellent a party. I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, GEO. B. McCLELLAN, Lieutenant of Engineers, and Brevet Captain, U.S. A., Commanding Western Division of Survey. Governor I. I. Srrvens, Chief of Northern Pacific Railroad Exploration and Survey. | } ! INSTRUCTIONS.—TOPOGRAPHICAL REPORT ON WESTERN DIVISION. 203 Wasuineron, D. C., May 9, 1853. Sir: On your arrival at San Francisco, you will ascertain from the proper sources the exact state of affairs with reference to the supplies and personnel of your command. Before leaving there for the Columbia river, you will make all the arrangements necessary to carry out the gen- eral instructions for the conduct of the expedition. ’ Having arrived at Astoria, you will at once proceed to organize your command at such point, either in Oregon or Washington Territory, as you may decide to be the best. You will employ such guides, hunters, and mulcteers as you may find necessary, as well as the civil assistants indispensable to the performance of the required duties. With regard to these, and all other points involving expenditure, you will be careful to observe the strictest economy compatible with the success of the expedition. The first and most important point to which your attention is to be directed will be the exploration of the Cascade mountains. You will thoroughly explore this range from the Columbia river to the forty-ninth parallel of north latitude, making detailed exam- inations of the passes, and obtaining full information in relation to the range in general. Pend- ing this examination you will endeavor to examine the line of the proposed road from Wallah- Wallah to Steilacoom, and to start its construction. Having completed the survey of the Cascade range, you will at once proceed eastward as far as the Rocky mountains, unless you meet, before reaching that range, the main party coming from the east. In selecting your route, you will start from the most practicable pass in the Cascade range, and follow what you regard as the most promising line for a practicable road. From the nature of the case it is impossible for me to give you detailed instructions ; but I have, in the course of a number of conversations, fully explained to you the objects of the expedition, my own probable operations, and my views. I have, therefore, to direet you to keep constantly in your mind the tenor of these conversations, and the written general instructions. You will use your own judgment as to the manner of carrying them out in the most rapid and effectual manner. Whenever you meet with the main party from the east, or any portion of it, you will at once assume the command, (in my absence,) and give whatever orders may be necessary, in your opinion, to carry out the objects of the expedition. Funds will be placed at your disposal to meet your expenses. Enclosed are the general and detailed instructions of the expedition, with an explanatory memorandum. Yours, &c., ISAAC I. STEVENS. Brevet Capt. G. B. McCietuan, Corps of Engineers. 8. TopoGRAPHICAL REPORT OF LIEUTENANT J. K. DUNCAN, U.S. A.. TOPOGRAPHER OF THE WEST- ERN DIVISION. Oxtympra, Wasuineton Territory, February 21, 1854. Sm: I have the honor to submit, together with an accompanying map, the following report on the topography and general character of the country along the route pursued by the party under your command in an exploration of the Cascade mountains, during the months of July, August, September, October, and November, 1853, viz: A route northeasterly from Fort Vancouver, on the Columbia, to the Cathlapoot’l river; thence, eastward along the banks of the Cathlapoot’l and across the ranges of the Cascade mountains, south of Mount St. Helens and Adams, to the open country beyond; thence, turning Mount Adams on the east, northerly to Ketetas, a point on the Yakima above where it receives 204 TOPOGRAPHICAL REPORT ON WESTERN DIVISION. the waters of its principal tributaries, Atahnam, Nahchess, &c., the country along the Yakima river from its sources in the mountains to its junction with the Columbia. From Ketetas north- erly to the mouth of the Pisquouse or Wenatshapam; thence, up the, Columbia to Fort Okinakane, the country on the Methow river from its head to its mouth, the country along the Okinakane river from its junction with the Columbia to the lakes beyond the forty-ninth parallel; thence, leaving the Okinakane at its forks, eastward across the country to the Nehoialpit river ; thence, down this river to its mouth, crossing the Columbia at Fort Colville. From Fort Colville to Fort Wallah-Wallah, via the valleys of the Slawntehus, Chemakane, Cherahna, and Wallah- Wallah rivers, crossing the Spokane river a few miles below the forks or site of the old Spokane house, and the Saptin or Lewis’ fork of the Columbia at the mouth of the Peluse; thence, down the south bank of the Columbia to the Dalles, and from the Dalles down the Columbia river by water to Fort Vancouver. The country gradually rises back of Vancouver into a light range of hills running parallel to Columbia river, and generally about a mile and a half from it. Two miles from Vancouver the trail crosses a brook twenty feet wide, which empties into a lake three miles below that place; the lake communicating with the Columbia ten miles below. From this stream the coun- try along the trail breaks into small openings or plains having no timber on them. They vary from a half to several miles in extent, are very level, as well as the adjacent country, and are separated from each other by narrow strips of woods. Kolsas, the largest of these plains, about seven miles from Vancouver, is six or seven miles long, and three or four in breadth, and connects on the south with a swampy arm of Camas plain, which stretches off to the east- ward, in which direction there is a large tract of the same character of country lying along Mill creek, and running down towards the Columbia. From Kolsas the trail bears to the northeast for six miles to a plain called Simsik, about a mile and a half long. The country between Vancouver and Simsik is similar in character—heavily timbered with fir, spruce, and a dense undergrowth of maple and hazel bushes. The soil is sandy and gravelly, especially the open plains ; the soil in the woods between Kolsas and Simsik is the best. The country up to Simsik is quite level; leaving Simsik east of north the country becomes hilly and broken along the trai], the hills becoming higher and more rocky as we approach the Cathlapoot’] river. Between these points the trail crosses several branches of the Cathlapoot’l. Six miles from Simsik there is a small rapid brook fifteen feet wide; two miles farther on there is another, thirty feet wide and two deep; and a third, the Yahkohtl, eight miles beyond, about forty feet wide and two and a half deep. The bottoms of these streams are rocky, and that of the Yahkohtl very stony; the currents rapid. They run among high hills, and have no valleys. They unite a short distance below the fords, the main stream uniting with the Cathlapoot’l four miles from its junction with the Columbia. Eleven and a half miles from the Yahkobtl the trail crosses the Chalacha. This river is thirty-five feet wide, ford good. It receives two branches a short distance below the ford—the first from the southeast, a bold rapid brook twenty feet wide; and the other a small rivulet coming in from the other side and running nearly parallel to the Chalacha, and one anda half or two miles from it. Thirteen miles from Simsik is Mankas Plain, surrounded by hills, and more low and swampy than the other plains met with. Six miles beyond the Yah- kohtl river is the Yahkohtl Plain, a high, sandy, undulating plain, about three miles long. Five and a half miles beyond this plain occurs the Chalacha Plain, lying between the Chalacha river and the parallel rivulet before spoken of The country between Mankas and Simsik is simply hilly; hills higher near the latter place. Between Mankas and the Yabkohtl river there are two sharp spurs of the Cascades, differing from the other hills by being higher and rocky. ‘They stretch off to the east and west, increasing in altitude towards the east, but falling off in the opposite direction. Between the Yahkohtl and Chalacha rivers the country is high and hilly, and, in places, much broken. There is a high spur running along the left bank of the Chalacha river, and the plain of this name is entirely surrounded by high ridges and rocky peaks. An almost perfectly symmetrical TOPOGRAPHICAL REPORT ON WESTERN DIVISION. 205 peak is seen towards the northeast and at the end of the plain in that direction. Between Chalacha and the Cathlapoot’l is a high spur of the Cascade mountains, which runs along the left bank of that river. The ascent to it is gradual, and by successive hills and long slopes, but the descent is rocky and abrupt, and dangerous for loaded animals. The Cathlapoot’] is a very bold, rapid river, run- ning about twenty-five yards in its bed, but, judging from the sand and shingle on its banks, it evidently becomes over two hundred yards wide at the ford. This, however, is not the general character of. its banks, as they usually are high and well defined, preventing an overflow at any season. It is about three feet deep at the ford, and the bottom is filled with large water-worn shingle, and makes the fording difficult in so rapid a stream. Just opposite the ford the Spilyeh debouches into it from the north. Between Simsik and the Cathlapoot’l, with the exception of the small plains, the country is well timbered with fir, hemlock, &c., and the underbrush is very dense in places. Some alder and maple grow along the Yahkohtl river. The soil is generally very good, and that between Yahkohtl river and plain will compare favorably with any in the Territory; there is but little of it, however. The Cathlapoot’l, at the ford, runs nearly west and east. There are two mountain chains running along its banks, one on either side; the one on the right or northern bank is composed of rugged, broken hills, is lower than the chain on the south bank, is less continuous, and lies farther back from the river. Bluffs and spurs from it, however, run up to the river. To avoid these, the trail runs back from the river in a northerly direction across the range four and a half miles toSpilyeh plain. The Spilyeh river is crossed about a mile from the Cathlapoot’] at its forks, the trail running up the hills on the tongue between them. One branch bears to the northeast, the other to the west of north. Spilyeh plain is long and narrow. a= sete see eee ae eee ee ee ee October 14.—Sometimes trailing through the woods, and then taking to the gravelly beach of the lake, we reach its north bend, and emerge upon an open prairie bottom of good soil. Through this prairie bottom flows Flathead river and sorne of its tributaries... .- Se eee Ce cee eer cee cee oe oe Seine seven ae The trail touches the river above the lake. Camp on a brook flowing into Flathead river, with an abundance of wood, good water, and grass...---.------- October 15.—Trail on the right bank of the river, but not in sight of it. High, nearly level ground, partly prairie, partly wood land, extends to where Flathead river issues from the mountain ridge on its eastern side. Good road to this point. - Winding on the base of the mountain, the trail is rocky and very rough, but after a short distance the mountains again recede from the river..-...-------------- The same nearly level upland is renewed. Henceforward, to the prairie east of the Rocky mountains, the trail is absent; always woods. Trail to camp much obstructed by fallen timber. Ford Flathead river, three hundred feet wide, two and a half feet deep; pebbly bottom; banks sixty feet high......--.---------- Camp in the woods, without grass.......--. Sasso aS tris annie eects October 16.—Journeyed only to get grass; woods and fallen timber obstructed the trail. Encamped on a small lake, with good grass, wood and water......-- October 17.—Cross Flathead river above its forks, two hundred and fifty feet wide, two and a half feet deep; pebbly bottom; steep banks, sixty feet high. Mount- ains now close in upon the river and trail, and- the valley continues narrow to its BOUTCE... ......-BRGEs . sosts Semper dele eee ee ad See a nceay 28 October 27.—Descend the Teton; at a distance of ten and a half miles reaching old camp of A. W. Tinkham, of September 10 and 11, on Teton river near the in Gp meee eee Skala. olde ae veis od Slave iptoieldnie Gre Stic Se RE ee ee ee ee oe sist pelos Thence to Fort Benton, in a direct line, is estimated to be..........--.----.. jakd BSE The same smooth and dry prairie, already noticed, lies between the Teton and Missouri rivers. ee The whole length of this reconnaissance, from Lieutenant Donelson’s last camp on Jocko riverto Fert-Benton;asi(qailes))). bowie - psec o-oo eee eee --- 2954 This distance is simply estimated, and at its different points will sometimes be found too large and sometimes too small. As a whole, it appears to be in excess about ten miles. The courses are also more or less erroneous; much of the trail, where passing through the woods and fallen timber, in being very serpentine, and changing its direction 100° a rod or two, without opportu- nity for giving a general course; while on the prairie the air was often so thick with snow that it was impossible to retain a direct course. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, A. W. TINKHAM. Governor I. I. Stevens, Chief of Northern Pacific Railroad Exploration and Survey, Washington, D. C. 83. ITINERARY OF THE ROUTE FROM FORT OWEN, BY THE SOUTHERN NEZ PERCES TRAIL, TO WALLAH-WALLAH. From Fort Owen westward to Wallah-Wallah the journey was interrupted with many deten- tions and delays; a portion of it was made with snow-shoes and packs, when our whole day’s march sometimes amounted to but two or three miles; and hence, in giving the features of this route, it will not generally be desirable to notice separately the journey of each day, as heretofore. Cantonment Stevens, the winter quarters of Lieutenant Mullan, is on the St. Mary’s river, fourteen miles above Fort Owen. The southern Nez Perces trail leaves the main trail, which ascends the St. Mary’s valley at the forks of the river, twenty-six miles above Cantonment Stevens, and traces the southwest fork to near its source. To the fork the valley of the St. Mary’s retains its open and prepos- sessing character, with good grazing and much good soil; and a practicable passage for wagons can be obtained with occasional divergings from the present trail..... saan! 40 November 21.—The southwest fork of the St. Mary’s is, a short distance above its union with the main stream, above eighty feet wide, three feet deep, with a bot- tom of large round stones of granite or gneiss. The trail is narrow, (generally a single horse-trail;) is mostly on the strips of bottom-land, crossing and recrossing the stream at frequent intervals, and is not practicable for wagons. ‘The valley is narrow, closed in by high wooded hills; and the trail leaves it near its end, above where we entered it—a distance of.......-..------.---- delice RA i wera niet «0 wine In this distance snow had appeared, and finally was about eight inches deep; and the streams were half frozen. At this season no good camping grounds can be found; the grass is very scanty, and the valley generally wooded, so.as to be very troublesome crossing. November 23.—After leaving the valley of the southwest fork of St. Mary’s river, the trail passes over a high and hilly ridge to the Kooskooskia. During the passage ITINERARY OF THE ROUTE FROM FORT OWEN TO WALLAH-WALLAH, snow covered this summit ridge, after a while as much as three feet deep. The trail is steep and laborious, wholly impracticable for wagons, but would not have been difficult if not covered with snow. As it was, we were three days making our way through the snow. ‘The opportunities for camping all appear insufficient except for very small parties ; and it is probably usual to make the passage from the St. Mary’s fork to the Kooskooskia in one day, where, on the bottom of the river, is a smal]l open and level spot used as a camping ground, with water and wood abundant as usual, but not much grass. There was no snow. November 26.—The trail does not follow the valley of the Kooskooskia, but, as usual, the steep slopes of its western sides. Some of these side-hills are grassed, and one of them afforded us a tolerable camping ground. The Kooskooskia is a small stream, where crossed, sixty to eighty feet broad, with a pebbly bottom, and flows in a deep, gorge-like valley, wooded with pine, fir, spruce, cedar, hemlock, &c. The trail ascends very rapidly for some seven circles, gaining a greater ele- vation of near eight hundred feet above the sea. Five and a half miles from the river the snow became so deep that it was impossible to force the animals farther ; and from that point, with a portion of my little party, I proceeded on foot....-.-. December 7.—Over high wooded ridges to some small stream making to the southwest, there may be here a tolerable camping place in summer for a small trail party. The whole country was covered with a deep snow when we crossed US SASF een ee See a ee nt ey ee December 10.—Continuing over the high wooded ridges, on this day, we reached a small stream running north, near whose source is a wide open spot nearly level, ap- parently covered with grass, and which I judge to be in summer an excellent camp- ing ground for a large train. Wood and water are always abundant. The only Proublensito nimesMiniClent PLASSH.SiMap Ss Rated coeidie. ation osenee seen ae December 11.—The usual character of the country separates this little spot from the valley ofa small stream, affording another excellent camping ground for parties of any size. Here is a small brook, at first twenty feet wide, but soon increasing its size, the valley of which for some five or six miles continues unwooded, with an interval about a quarter of a mile wide, covered with abundant and good grass. The hill-sides afford enough of scattered trees for camping purposes. This is the best spot for camping between the St. Mary’s valley and the Nez Perces country. It was the first spot free of snow we saw after leaving the Kooskooskia valley - . . . December 13.—After following the valley just described, the trail again passes to the hills, wooded and covered with snow, as usual. The trail is not, however, difficult for a pack-trail. Near the source of a small stream, probably a tributary of the one reached December 11, there is another large open spot, apparently well grassed, with a rivulet making down throughits centre. This is apparently a suit- able camping spot for a large party, and is nearly three miles long...--..-.-.--- December 14.—A hilly and tiresome trail connects the above spot with a small stream flowing in a deep narrow valley, into which the trail descends only to have again renewed the labor of toiling up its opposite slopes. A small and inconvenient opportunity. will be found for camping here... -....--..2--0+s0eeeeesenee eee ee December 16.—Some ten miles from this stream we pass a high summit, whose broad white top, conspicuous amid the surrounding mass of dark wooded mount- ains, had been seen near a week before. I suppose it to be the highest of the trail between the Kooskooskia and the Nez Perces country. The trail to this point ascends rapidly, and though not difficult, is steep and tiresome. On the summit is a broad open spot which may afford grass, but probably not water. The snow 375 53 10 14 15 376 ITINERARY OF THE ROUTE FROM FORT OWEN TO WALLAI-WALLAH. was very deep there when we crossed it. A few miles from this open hill-top is a small stream, which I supposed would in summer afford a good camping ground. There was apparently here sufficient prass........-....0csev-weceee seen eens December 17.—The mountains, with their woods and snow, end with this day, and we emerge upon the open, high plateau of the Nez Perces country, through which flow the different tributaries of the Clearwater river. A suitable camping ground is found just as the trail issues from the woods, where, on the borders of a small stream, are water, wood, and grass .......-.-- SORE. Be AE SE Be Passing over a farther interval of high open country, the trail descends to the bottom-land of a large tributary of Clearwater river, a stream some one hundred and twenty feet wide and two'feet Ideepzizizis5. nent tes. 2Wscke tees etek December 24.—On this stream are the Nez Perces. But few lodges were near the mountains at this time. A broad trail runs down the valley, but after following it for some six miles we left the river-bottom, and by a steep road up the high hills enclosing the river, gained the high plateau above it. A high open plateau country, generally with a good soil and well grassed, extends thence to Mr. William Craig’s, whose house is on the Lapwai, about fifteen miles from the river; a good camping ground is to be found on the bottom-land of a small stream, furnishing wood, water, and grass. The Lapwai river also affords good camping ground........------ December 27.—F rom Mr. Craig’s to Snake river is about fifteen miles. The trail leaves the Lapwai at the end of four miles, and for most of the distance, to Snake river, passes over high ground. The country is such between the Lapwai and Wallah-Wallah, that, excepting the crossing of Snake river, it is probably practi- cable to use wagons in transportation, excepting that crossing, the only difficulty being in ascending and descending the steep slopes of the deep valleys in which all the tributaries of Snake river flow. Snake river was about 450 feet wide when we crossed it, deep, and with a strong current, and is evidently at times much wider and deeper than this. It is wholly destitute of wood. Indians are gene- rally to be found near by, who, for a small payment, ferry over the passengers and goods, and, if necessary, assist in getting the horses across. The trail follows down the bottom of Snake river for but about seven miles, and then passes to the valley of a small tributary brook. Here is a fair camping ground. ‘The stream is tolerably well fringed with wood, and the grass is sufficient... ..- CSE SeeEee December 28.—Trail passes up the intervale of a small stream, lined with cotton- wood and willowestwist, oie. dsl edt eles ee JGk EAA cle ee ere eee : By a steep ascent gained the high plains, on which it continues to a small siream, name nobiknown: - 2. erudite A BE SS Be ee eee The valley of this stream affords a good road; the brook is lined with cotton- wood and willows, and all the essentials of camping are found here.....-..---- = Passing over a high hill separating the two streams, we gained the valley of the Tchannon river, where was a considerable encampment of Nez Perces. This stream is well supplied with cotton-wood. The grazing, owing to the large num- ber of Indian horses; was very poor: 2... .oouvss2ecieEneeaee eee eee eet et. December 29.—Trail crosses the Tchannon, and ascends by a steep hill to the high plains...... Distiew Bae Sewn onesie On Sein Tea ok ta High, smooth, grand plains continue to the Touchet river.......- ols cee iewlne December 30.—The Touchet, where we strike it, is from 30 to 60 feet wide, and about 3 feet deep, pouring out its waters with remarkable rapidity. It soon in- 103 13 10 14 13 43 23 262 ITINERARY OF THE ROUTE FROM FORT VANCOUVER TO FORT DALLES. on creases in size, and is not always fordable. A good trail follows the valley. The stream is well supplied with wood, and good grass and water for camping are HER WIIG coc ett bho b ee CoEORbOnOe be Jono See cbUboU: Gere Sees emeaee 324 Leaving the Touchet, with an easy ascent the trail passes again to the plains; the soil becomes poor and sandy, the grass gives place to the artemisia, and, ap- proaching Wallah-Wallah, the country is a sandy, wild-sage desert. In this inter- Wallis Weer VOCE, WHO NOP RUMIOO Nie Rae ndoeaoesogeassccncsesbedGuGS 194 — 862 Total distance from Fort Owen to Fort Wallah-Wallah..........-.-...----+---.-. 3402 This is the sum of the estimated courses. It is probably no greater, and is perhaps a little less, than the actually travelled distance. The course plotted and compared with the odometer sur- vey appears to be about ten miles in excess. Most of the mountain reconnaissance was con- ducted during thick, snowy weather, with snow-shoes and heavy packs, and under circumstances that rendered it impossible to obtain an accurate survey. I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, A. W. TINKHAM. Governor I. I. Stevens, Chief N. P. Railroad Exploration and Survey, Washington, D. C. 34. ITINERARY OF CAPTAIN MC’CLELLAN’S ROUTE} PREPARED BY J. F. MINTER. Otympra, WasHINGTON TERRITORY, February 25, 1854. Str: I have the honor to submit the following itinerary of the route pursued by the party under your command, in an exploration of the Cascade mountains, during the months of July, August, September, October, and November, 1853. July 18, 1853.—F rom Fort Vancouver to camp Wahwaikee ; wagon road through epi fir, with dense underbrush; road good; crossed a running creek...-...-.----.- 12 Camp on a small plain, grass and wood good; water half a mile distant. ..... a — 2 July 21.—To camp Kolsas, road same as on the 18th; crossed two small prairies : with good grass; crossed small stream.......-.. ----- Sek ee ouch toreraectt rece avez 44 Camped on a large prairie; grass indifferent; water for animals quarter of a ENN MONON CANN Deh oy yon a a) hatte ala ietalepe ieee «aie loe a dial ohS <3) ciei a cnn, Sie aa ca ae wins eaten 3 = 5 July 22.—To camp Sim-Sik; Indian trail passing for one mile through Kolsas prairie, thence through a dense fir forest, with much underbrush and fallen timber; country flat; much labor to clear the trail from here to Chequoss ; no water during the march; camped ina small prairie near a little brook; soil poor, grass good ; SeVen omewandsdhalt*fcrom) camp to camps. 22222 tote) ol ae: C July 23.—To camp Mesache. Country rougher than heretofore. Crossed two boggy creeks, and two with fine crossings ; much fallen timber and brush ; timber as before ; camped on a small stream fifteen feet wide; grass in small openings of the forest; ALwelvesourestron camp to camp... 2.222529. 2.0252. 22s cites oe July 24.—To camp Mankas. Country becoming still rougher ; obstructions on the trail very great, but rather less than yesterday ; crossed a fine stream; bottom thickly overgrown; soil good....._.. OS COO ORE IDS BORE Ee oes ear Eee 3 48 f 378 ITINERARY OF THE ROUTE FROM FORT VANCOUVER TO FORT DALLES. Crossed a rivulet: ees Fee eee Ot ge erie Re ee Encamped on a small prairie ; good grass; water inconvenient ; camp to camp eight andjayhallidhounssre est oe ae coe eels © coke Se sears wea ete ete oe oo ome ee July 25.—To camp Yahkohtl. Country becoming rougher; obstructions on the y i J D> > trail, principally from dead timber; descended a very steep hill, with a small pally streamlatwbe toot,-a branch of the Yahkohtl.. . s-ceausseesetoL eee eee Crossed a rough divide, and descended a long and steep hill to Yahkohtl river. - 5 ? t=} Passed over a rolling country, with open woods on the higher portion; thick 5 ’ 5 brush in the bottoms; camped on the edge of Yahkohtl prairie; soil and grass good; Poodswater m running stream Close! Colca p gee aipade =laie [ete tela tetae steele ian July 31.—To camp Chalacha. Country rolling; some short, steep hills; dense underbrush and timber; many fallen trees; crossed five streams......--------- Crossed another, but)smaller stream. 4. noe eee oe eee eee Travelled up the prairie and encamped. Good water and grass.......-..---- August 1—To camp Spilyeh. Country rolling and heavily timbered with fir, oak, white maple, and cedar; crossed small rivulet ina deep ravine. ..-...---.- Crossed four small plains covered with fern to the height of the head of a mounted man ; commenced descent into the valley of Cathlapoot’l...-...-.-..--- This descent is long, steep and dangerous; the trail winding down the narrow crest of a ridge, with a precipitous descent on each side. Here we lost a mule, killed by falling over the steep side-slope. At the foot of the descent a small spring branch, sandy bottom, of half a mile, and cross Cathlapoot’l........--.-------- Pass over rough and thickly timbered country ; cross Spilyeh creek......-.--- Travel over a similar country, and camp in a plain one mile long; grass and Water food ;..5. 8 ctl i a/c. eo whee abe Stipes ee bees eee ee See eee August 2.—To camp Lakas. Country level and open, but much heavy fallen timber’: cross sniall*’streain vue see Pk Oe EE ee See Pass through small plain, covered with fern; descend steep hill and touch Cath- lapoot arcs. oR eee let SET SER SA ee eee ee Follow valley of the stream, over stony beach; current rapid ; bottom of large 10 ea a a EN me TREC ORE! yn a ae, August 3.—To camp Noompt-nah-mie. Crossed the river a few hundred yards above camp. During the march crossed one fine stream, coming in on the right bank, three miles from camp; afterwards three spring branches; trail keeps near the river; heavy brush; in one spot a fine grove; country barren; passed over a tract of lava three quarters of a mile in length; crossed the Noompt-nah-mie near its mouth, and encamped at the crossing; no grass; erossing difficult in low water; impossible in \bigh wWater.: 1). - .i-\-Piamiqat quest. ae ea oe SS ee a5 August 4.—To camp Wininepat. Crossed a high, narrow ridge, with steep ascent and descent; small brook at its foot on north side; pass through open woods of fir, cedar, maple, and alder; crossed another rivulet, and then crossed the Cath- lapoot’l; followed the stony beach half a mile, and recrossed . - . . . aSusRE siaaee <2 The trail passes through a small opening, and then a new trail was cut through the thick brush and fallen timber for about two miles, to avoid a very deep crossing ; 23 24 93 53 10 63 ITINERARY OF THE ROUTE FROM FORT VANCOUVER TO FORT DALLES. crossed two bad sloughs; encamped on the bank of the river; no grass at camp; crossed the animals to a small island where there was a scanty supply.-.-...--- August 5.—To camp Wahamis; passed through open pine woods, and crossed thex@amhlapootelepaye ret sachs ast toe ee Geeieme meetepe ital UL Ears creel eis 2 Leave the river and ascend five terraces, and reach the base of a high ridge... - Ascend the ridge by a winding trail, so steep as to be barely practicable....... Descend on a gradual slope and over rolling country through open pine woods ; passing one opening with good grass and water.........-..----------------.- Thence through similar country to camp in a marshy valley, with good grass TCU NV CEUC Taek ARNE Se A ad eR SR Aa reer ee iY EPSPE et Se Uy AED. Sf fore ee eS August 6—To camp Yawakamis; over a high, rolling country, through a small rowth of fir and pitch-pine, to a small prairie with good grass and a s Re th of fi 1 pitch-p t ll with good g nd a small creel considerable tallenstimbersthusstary-ps.-s-5 4 45a o ot oot a ier ia soeeieio Vena hich ride to-arsprno branch, withmolorasse oe eens ane ace laee ceo O high ridge t g branch, with no gras Cross a high spur, and pass through burned and fallen timber, to a bold creek. - Pharm openiwoodsitoianother ereels «2 5.<.j1-s @ ae ee eee ee October 3.—To camp of September 26th and 27th; the trail leads over a mount- ain spur, and crosses the river... 2.222. - 2 eo on nena Pass under a high hill, and over a steep hill-side, and cross a bold stream... - . - Leaves the valley, and passes over a very high and rolling country, destitute of timber, until it re-enters the Methow valley...-...---- oe ker ee Keeps the valley, passing over some rough spurs, and reaches Columbia. - - --- Follows our old trail to camp of September 26th and 27th..... ers October 4.—To camp on Okinakane river; followed our trail of September 30th as far as the crossing; then continued a quarter of a mile on the right bank, instead Of coinitg to'thedeiirt esse: cooks Poe ae e Soeee eet eee Pe ot ches October 5.—Followed the level Okinakane valley ; crossed the river....------ Left river valley, and followed an ascending lateral valley; came opposite to a small lake on the right of the trail Passed another lake one mile long, with rough, high banks on left of trail... ... Reached a small spring branch, with good water........-----------+------- Passed summit of lateral valley, and descended by a trail, quite steep in places, to the Okinakane valley ; camped in the bottom; grass and wood good......--- c October 6.—Followed the Okinakane valley; crossed the river; crossed a bold creek coming in from the west; crossed another fine creek on the same side; camped on the river bank; grass good; wood not plenty. The trail generally 43 2 183 14 10 124 133 124 ITINERARY OF THE ROUTE FROM FORT VANCOUVER TO FORT DALLES. ‘good to-day, though sometimes passing over spurs and high rolling plateaux; grass generally good in the valley ; no large timber...-.-..-------.---------------- October 7.—Ascend a high plateau; follow it for some distance ; descend and SROSE BL IN® GIAEIE « coecu ace nc ap see ooeon4 =A ONenaBOe Code boeaoe 5 Sons eeee Keep the level, open bottom, Final (MIS TINS INNO? aaccae sancanodcese soo e ees Follow the lower terrace; cross there small creeks, and camp on river bank ; grass good; wood indifferent; good travelling to-day....-.------------------- October 8.—Follow the valley, passing under a high, steep mountain; reach indian villaperaththe forksss52.22) sa a2 eee aise S else alone Self Beis he rossed) theses tip tors ke papery sre edd ne otek nae telat fetes metre aiaverrnre) teks Follow the right bank, changing from terrace to terrace; trail always good; camp on river bank, crossing a small stream at camp; grass fair and wood good. - October 9.—Pass over a broad, level plateau to a rocky spur ..-.. Foadeecess From the spur, by passing through a marsh, again follow a level terrace; pass under a high, gravelly hill, and cross the river.......-------2--------++-+----- Follow the stony bed and recross, passing between high, bluff points of rock... Pass over a very rough and high country; camp on the edge of a marshy shore, among the rocks; grass good and wood abundant.......---..-----+----------- October 10.—To Great lake and back to camp of yesterday; there being no valley, the trail passes sometimes through marshes, sometimes over mountains, high rolling terraces, &c.; never very rocky; open timber on the mountains. ....----. = October 11.—Turned back on trail of 9th to first crossing of river......-....-- Instead of crossing the second time, kept on left bank, passing over rolling country Left main valley, and followed an elevated lateral valley; re-entered the main valley; passed some small lakes in the lateral valley, and crossed a creek ..----. Followed down the main valley; camped on lake shore; grass good; wood imehienaais (enll Weiny HOnyl (O-CEN AG oooobeoe ecu doudadr oon] oooe sobs eeaccer October 12.—To camp Kah-loo-sheep ; followed the edge of the lake ; trail gen- GFaILY, VEEY, SOOdeers a etesol iofete itarste/aitt= stajatnalctats Amp ope\=iae oi lars Ace etae.2e| Sse Crossed a high ridge into the valley of a small stream; ascend this valley to near camp, then pass over very rolling and terraced country; recross the same stream, and camp upon it; grass and wood good; trail has ascended gradually to a very high elevation.....-......- Fe ee te ee aoe Se ROCCE ORE aero Se i October 13.—Pass over a high, rolling country; patches of larch timber here and there; cross a summit and a small stream; descend into the valley of the Siyakan Ascend a high and steep hill; pass along a high plateau; cross two small branches; descend into the valley of the Siyakan, and cross it near its mouth... .- Follow the lower terrace of the Nehoialpitkwu, passing through open woods ; cross that stream, and camp on the left bank; grass and wood good; with the exception of a few steep hills, the travelling to-day was excellent October 14.—Trail generally keeps the valley; occasionally passes over high spurs and plateaux; woods open; cross the river four times; cross two small branches on the right bank and four on the left ; camp on the river bank, with good grass; trail good... 5 +r “AN/G “HS)s /€ ‘2 |} 01} T “MN | 6 08S | FS $S 99 09 L9 $9 T ‘MAS|T ‘MS|T “AS|]6G “MS|/G 1/3 ‘MS|/e | T “MS|T ELL | PL cg €L e9 c9 09 € “MS /T ‘MS|/1T “MS/T “AMS | 01 /T “MS 6 || T “MS)] ¢ L°8L | GL cg OL $9 £9 g¢ T ‘MS |G ‘“MS/T ‘AS|T ‘“MS|/% |@ ‘MS|G |G “MS| 7 €°08 | FL 16 9L Lg 19 09 |}38 ‘MS|G ‘AN|/T "“MS|/T ‘“MS|S |T ‘AN|8 |T ‘“MS]|S £8 | 08 £6 FL 6¢ $9 Lg 0 G *MS | T ‘a 0 (Wty QAMNSE | Qe | 1 ‘a |G | €''8)] 82 86 LL £9 79 tS T ‘a |? ashy dt "S| T ‘a/b 13 Sig | ‘S| T L’es | 62 96 QL 6S $9 €¢ 1 ‘8 0 & ‘MS| [ ‘S |G |T ‘a | T tT ‘MS | T O'F8 | OL 96 08 LS 09 oS 1h ANS Ut S| © SANG TS AAS TT T ‘M/|G | T “M | T Lek | FL 88 $L vs 9g €¢ b 'MN|T ‘AN } T “M 0 0 0 (yf 'M | & OGL | IL 4 L9 6S 19 9¢ 0 € ‘MS|/G “MS | I ‘a | T I ‘as | T LC sr o°c8) LL 6 98 8¢ +9 LY 0 P ‘M/T “M 0 0 \6 ‘M/T T "M | T O'LL| FL 06 19 tS 8¢ 8s 0 UNE} Tp BAIN} \ 0 0 T ‘MS|/¢ |& “MN} 1 L°9L | 89 #8 8L 9g 09 Lg OANS))|//8) ANS RESALES eA Sa Gi |i AS GS ny L°8L | 92 06 A 8S $9 LS See ASST ANS AS Te me AAINGS |i) I ‘A/T 0 0 0°64) 82 £6 99 69 cg 19 T ‘MS/G ‘AS 0 T “MS/@ |T ‘“AS|8 | T ‘a | 6 0°0OL | 89 OL 99 €9 9 @ |G ‘“MAS|T “MS|T “AN|G ‘°MS/0T/T "6 |r ‘a/8 O'cL| OL £6 e9 Paaaaptane |i Gs cc 0 0 I ‘a 0 0 0 0 0 (iS ee ee LAL) OL 6¢ #9 6¢ 0 T ‘AS'S | T ‘M | T ‘H/T |}6 “HN)8 | T ‘a | T LOL | $L 18 cL 19 #9 S$ |G ‘AN|G “‘M|T “M 0 0 0 0 0 0 LkL | 8b 68 99 6S $9 bs ¢ ‘GN | T *‘M | T MM) Tt “ads | 1 0 0 0 0 1°08 | 08 ei) OL 6¢ £9 e¢ IT ‘UN | T “M | T “AM 0 Q) ya seule | a8 ‘a |G Ech | GL 98 89 GS 69 1S T “MN /]T ‘AN/T “M 0 0 0 0 0 0 EOL | OL 88 IL Nd g Nd gv yz) mag | ‘Wea gy | CW VE ‘Nd 6 Nady ‘NIV, ‘URaTA| Nd G)"N'd {WV LZ OGG"LE | SELLE | GOL] | 09B" LG $r0" #90°L@ | 990° 100° ssl" 886°96 | POL" 0G" cce* eee* Lsg* 9Le* LST’ She" SIT* 601" Olt’ Gil’ FL0° 4 Il’ 660° tl GIs" 986" (ii) CCG" eee" LEG" OFS" cle" Seo" 886° LTg* coe cee’ $9" L6.° est" GL’ FST" €9l° Chl” ST" £90° LG | C60°LG | SSO"LG | 8E0°2E €c8° €838" €6L G88 "9G 9L6°9G | 6FE"9G | 6E6°9G | 6E0" cl” 90° 8é1° OE” €Ip* elP’ Tce* 9LF* OLP* 89r° bop PSh* T9¢° GLr’ ges* G19" T&G" 81e° £1" 296" 8a" itccys 986" 068° Le" $8" c6L" £06" €¢0° 160° L¢0° G10" roe) eco" 980° 6tG" 08s" 198° Che" L8T° OFG™ €Ll° L6T° oce* teteenee|eeeeueee! ope Fee" Tse" c93" 816" 008° 906° 46" LOT” cco" €9b° ote" 968" eg" €c8" Loe" bee” 89c" GCELG | CIG*L] | E8S"LE | CEPLT iol ‘ag | (Nd GZ | WV E *1oJOWIOIATT 9010) puB UOrdarIp ‘pul, “AUOOTAA PUB 9SINOd aratpy ‘spnolp ‘Jajamourtayy ae uadQ *pajool109 JoJONIOIN ‘bsg ‘hyog saunp hq ‘Fog “snbuy fo yyuow ayy sof ‘soars .wnossyy waddQ ‘uojuag 740,q 7o epous su0r4nA.LaS9C “ suvoyy RRA RA RARRARH oD = Ra aS AAR SR tI ‘avg 584 METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. Summary of Barometric and Temperature Observations at Fort Benton. Barometric means corrected. Means and extremes of temperature. 23 Date. zs cS. — = ; = 5 TAM. 2p. M. 9r.m. | Mean. 7A.M. 2P.™M. 9p. M. Mean. Maxinium.|Minimum. 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O3L 29. 880 RE See Sete minke als ow eo cclaa cel neen — 971 29. 951 . 049 . 816 1 OSE CORED SLU BOS LOSERS ES occe _ 30. 016 847 29. 897 913 haan Spe Scee Deco lp aps seotine 56 Osc = - 098 . 729 . 843 30. 013 Qee cen coccws sce weccauuenwlcac= === _ at) ~ 757 . 652 29. 934 Uno n8s Sonmens BOSE MORES OSES — 29.951 . 882 . 728 709 oe oeoaee feos see veeeeteee _— - 799 30. 003 . 672 916 LD See amieaciee eaten ae aa eee _ . 804 29. 741 . 989 . 687 NBs 2am. coe ase ese oeeweee ste oee ieee oe — . 924 . 132 30, 075 . 810 Make oe Seem aastas Poe nee ast see _— . 843 . 908 29. 908 39. 116 HS = AA ee Oech OCOD rSeocooses occe —_ . 782 - 932 . 924 -120 We soso cakoos Gas jaeosooSrs wscei Dass — -919 . 642 . 902 29. 904 17 oo Suc en cc cet ceodecch eokmcewe sees —_— . 907 . 824 . 823 817 AS ee see hoes nae cence esse _ - 952 30. 043 30, 009 . 738 LOT Pane cerebecses= Caccegeutwees ats 30. (82 . 985 29. 974 . 137 772 WMhos-ascoseses de nieesiicesenasesea . 010 30. (147 . 908 275 . 824 RL ens sues a cedu meweedeeeclme ses 29. 522 29. 957 . 874 . 164 . 787 P2ivacecc seer e st ersee es Sa snosseee . 829 . 863 . 796 175 30. 165 RS sc edae see cecds eeescen ctoaceses 30. 037 . 874 710 . 012 29. 905 Chee ose oe oa aan nes eaee tee eee 29. 989 . 873 - 753 29, 874 814 DO Sete scsceoe eee ee eo emeecrenetene . 855 . 836 . 925 30, 047 O94 CESAR Bcconecncoborsensere capes . 807 . 818 . 876 29. 936 *. 134 QUscat ante eae Bae eens wien oe ae - 845 . 840 . 883 30. 183 -- PBoseee saeeac we snar cos eesewecaccce . 864 . 837 30. 010 . 253 _ DO ieee. c Porbemeste boas escccsescese 835 . 797 29. 947 . 198 — ae o25 ano nocicR Eas ea GOED OODCC . 980 - 775 -914 . 080 _ Oe seep secee Con O BEE Ear aD oaccos 30. 014 . 834 — 235 — Monthly mean at sunrise-.-----..----. 29. 951 29. 940 29. 866 30. 103 29. 878 Monthly mean at 9 a. m........-..-.- 29. 940 29, 947 29. 854 30. 101 29. 870 Monthly mean at 3 p. m.----------... 29, 887 29, 886 29, 826 30. 098 29. 924 Monthly mean at 9 p. m..----.--...-- 29. 905 29. 897 29. 842 30, 098 29. 925 Mean ien. ssenant rongceaccorneernée 29, 921 29, 917 29, 847 30. 100 29. 899 * A remarkably low point, occurring at all Pacific stations. Mean for 131 days, 29. 939 inches. Altitude of Columbia Barracks, 57. 6 feet. Two observations only, at sunrise and 9 a. m. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 601 The barometric observations at Olympia are of a barometer noted by G. W. Stevens as con- taining air, in April, 1854. They have a large zero error, and the succession of readings is often such as to prove that the errors of measurement are very large. The suinmaries would, there- fore, give no valuable data to judge of the mean position of the barometer then, or of the measures of variation. The hygrometric observations are not embraced in the summary, as they can only be pre- sented accurately in deduction, or in detailed observations. ‘The mean differences of the wet and dry bulb are very small. In August, 1854, the mean difference at sunrise is but one and a ; half degrees, at 2 p. m. 7.5 degrees, at 9 p. m. 3.2 degrees. In September, 1854, these differ- ences are, for the respective hours, 1.4, 4.3, and 1.5 degrees. These are the dryest months except July. It will be seen that these results differ largely from the same measures east of the Cascade range of mountains and at Fort Benton, and prove the coast atmosphere to contain a large proportion of moisture at all seasons. In the rainy months, the differences between the hygrometer and the dry thermometer are very small. Summary of Meteorological Observations at Olympia, Washington Territory. Thermometer. i Bel Date. S| 3 Remarks. 7 a.m. | 2p.m.| 9 p.m. | Mean. | Maxi-| Mini-| 2 | 2 mum, }mum.) S| 3° ° (o) fo} ° (o} April, 1854...--. 44, 9 57. 1 49, 6 50.53 | 72 34.5 | 24 | 0 | Profuse and almost constant rains. Frost on the 8th, 11th, 21st, and 25th; wind irregu- lar, mainly south to west and north, and light. May, 1854....--. 48,2 63. 2 53.1 54.80 | 83 41 8 | 8 | Irregular and moderate rains. Heavy white frost on 13th; wiods light, and very irregular. June, 1854....... 54, 0 64.0 57.0 58.33 | 74.5 | 49 15 | 7 | Frequent irregular rains. Wind very variable ; but few clear days. July, 1854....... 55.0 75.9 64. 0 65. 00 | 89.4 | 45 0 | 20 | Very slight rain on 15th; winds north and northwest mainly, light; mostly clear from 7th to 27th. August, 1854..... 55.5 74.2 65.5 65. 07 | 86.5 | 48 7 | 9/|1.83 inches of rain. Much cloudy weather ; winds very light and irregular. . 36 inches of rain. Rains and winds irregu- lar; generally cloudy. October, 1854....| 45.3 60.2 48.7 51.40 | 73 38 13 | 6 | 3.14 inches of rain; rains nearly continuous from the 20th; winds south and southeast. Heavy frost on 6th, 7th, 8th, and 9th, and on 12th and 13th. November, 1854.-| 43.0 51.9 45.5 46.80 | 67 32 12 | 33.91 inches of rain; winds principally south and southwest. Rains nearly continuous from 17th to 24th; no snow. December, 1854.-| 39.7 46.0 42.0 42.57 | 58 31 15 | 311.32 inches rain; rains nearly continuous : from 20th. | Sunrise....--- . 380 54.5 | axle 54 a Cloudy. Mint Crass cs s.niwnee = abetted fp kites fy AA Sk | METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS, 605 Barometric and Meteorological Observations—Continued. Locality and date. Hour. | Barometer Attached Barometer Air ther-- Wind. Remarks. } | No.1. | therm. corrected. momet’r. Camp No. 6 | | July 31..-.--..--------| Wena sans 29, 678 72.2 29,562 | 72,7 | SW......| Fair. Bileepocoeteses Daeb)| o) Da eeseeae . 658 76.5 531 76 SWise--e Fair; smoky. Bl escccsecceopce ss 6) pumicceee == - 596 66 497 65 0 Fair. etcene ceeaccees 7% p. =... - 588 61.7 - 500 GLE) Sesser Fair. Olienecopesesaqotos Stl Soegecc 98!) 54.7 -510 54.8 | SE...-..- Smoky; clouds. ANT, “Te ceaeoadcabcoons Sunrise....--. - 560 38.5 . 531 39 SEVe-es Foggy; heavy dew. 1A Sonene es emaea: UO Genie os sace . 640 51.5 .579 51 ts) persed Foggy. osecenesnoccon s+ Siam aeeem - 642 56 | - 969 54.5 | SE).-bee5 Fair. Meter ree srs. epta| Ro .8 586 enor | 29.535 | 59.3 Camp No. 7. 4 Mig Weer 2 Diese Re pymeeeee: | 29.584 | 66 99,485 | 68 |8....--. | Clear. oesasecsossseces U Vb dtlcoscoce . 610 65. 5 . 512 68 | 0 Fair: smoky. Ueaco codes eSesse | Epes esoess - 622 59.7 -539 | 59.5 | §....-.. | Fair; smoky. Dene See | Sunrise .....- -686 | 45 G42 Mul ABE 2ea Sian Cloudy. Pecan ocacsaecee7t O Bohl coasc .634 | 54.4 Faas, GS) RS code Cloudy. 1G teehee] a aes leat ne ee Pe 29,549 | 59.7 | eee | | —————— — Camp No.8 , ‘i, Baaenacscsonceace O) Pe livataetetels 29. 790 71.2 29, 677 GORD Pe AS Eyes Fair. Clear. Light dew; foggy. Slight fog. Cloudy. Cloudy. Cloudy. Fair. Fair. Fair. Fair. Fair. Fair. Fair. Fair. Fair. Fair. Fair. ING Were one cee coadac Shin Wopeaode 27. 102 72.5 26. 996 72 SWisee==-)|(eair: Bocce emssoc ssscoe Gi ji. beennpoe - 190 69. 2 27. 091 69.2 | SW. ....| Fair. 5---- ------ --- 2 ee 0 [ps Lelbe ASeee . 120 54 . 058 55 Se. ceo. Fair. G)secios=aotoceton DEM inne --- .13L 49 - 081 49 Siogassee Fair. Opceacsece eee Sunrise....--. . 086 43.5 . 050 iN PSG goncce Foggy. Guses sess csneees ITs == 112 | 55 -048 | 55 0 Foggy. Oacoacase soos -s- SEIS Ge Fe oe . 124 62 049 ogo}. | NiWieter at Fair. WE ereacecs|boos ccs sonccd eiseieiewliceistecee 27. 053 57.7 | ——— . 606 METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. Barometric and Meteorological Observations—Continued. Locality and date. Hour. | Barometer Attached Barometer Air ther-. Wind. Remarks. | No.1. therm. | corrected. momet’r. = = | Camp No. 12. PNT hesgassase so5cse Bip. =. 26. 960 66 26. 870 64.5 | W. .----| Fair. 635.54 Se ape sce . 856 §2.5 799 52 0 Fair. Op scncaseosdossac Dae sapeces | 860 44.5 . 822 45.7 |W. - ....| Fair. Chea tooden cso Sunrise...---- . 864 51.5 . 810 51.5 | W- - -:..| Raining. oe Agno e eee Cla anesteee . 860 52 . 803 53 0 Misty rain. Ses sstetacoeeea=s 12M eeetee ne SLADE | a3 . 852 76.5 | W- --..-| Cloudy. T= RR OEIC CE SipaAMwseweeae 914 58.5 .842 | 57.5 | W- - .-..| Cloudy. ofa OC 6)p.Meeeee ee 880 52.5 822 | 53 NW. --.-.| Cloudy. bse ecnae cogc22 7 p.m™.......-| . 878 48 . 831 48 0 Cloudy. fee ee Spates ee . 874 41.5 . 843 42 W.. .- ...-| Cloudy. Beso coscosesesab|) Seb ibasssae5 900 | 44.5 862 44 | W...---.| Cloudy. Bisscesce sees /Piasm:eaeece -904 | 50.5 . 851 51.7 | NW. ....| Cloudy. Mean cser cern|~ees ance ane == - anne === mi xem m= 26. 834 53.3 | Camp No. 13. Aug. B2--------..-= ==. CA Bu eecoshed 26.020 | 45 25, 982 45 S.------- | Fair. (Seren coonansce MpIpallwesaeae . 028 44.5 - 991 45 ISietobaaces Fair. Sooo onsehoedsoe peter === 25. 998 40 971 40 SaSosc5e Cloudy. z : 26. 002 39 287s) 39 Shi a53553 Cloudy. . 014 39.5 . 989 Soe Nes sescen| lear: . 066 54 ° | 26.007 50 ENE Roe cee | Clear. .070 | 53 “013) 7] 95322) (Nee | Pleasant; clouds. . 116 54 057 | 54.5 | NW.....| Pleasant. . 090 59 019 59 NiWiereeoe | Pleasant. .070 | 54 O11 BPS || iS\o Gorse Clear. . 050 47.8 . 005 EVE tke dooce Fair. . 016 38 25. 999 38 $e sasoss Fair. . 022 34 26. 009 34 IWossaccs5 Clear. . 036 57.2 25. 970 osno el eNeeeee eee Fair. . 022 56.3 . 958 Dod, ONE esees Pleasant; cumulous clouds . 020 61 945 60 INE Seteee Fair. 25. 930 49.5 . 880 50 \Weciscoa|) Les . 916 44 . 880 44.5 0 Fair. ie Sepecochinsas Sunrise .----- . 888 40 . 861 AUS 0) GR) ato eases Fair. Tee saan onscs0 WA SID so oom . 896 7.5 . 829 56 a neyosgooS Fair. IGE pogo oo joc) pece sec eo cneoiecnd sees |lodsachee 25. 968 48 Camp No.14 Aug lleoseeee ee eae TH iesesccec 27.730 62 27. 647 62 SH Stes. Fair; clouds. Mesos sete steoe Opies = . B34 53 .774 53 SEneeese Pleasant. 1D cee ksdec ect oee Sunrise...--.. 850 43 814 43 W... ----| Cloudy. Meee eee sieces coos of BaiMessosccs - 820 55 754 54 W.. ....-| Pleasant. IVETE Seso soo] onomccs ceaca ocencctech|laacomsed 27. 747 53 Camp No. 15. | AUG. Ieee ceceecnuuees Op: Mie.ceene 28. 046 81 27.915 82 SW. .--.| Pleasant; clouds. AD si scwcette soe cere GLa aecsoe - 002 68 - 903 67.5 | SW. -..-| Pleasant. 1 OR a 5 depeilede seen 27. 998 65. 2 -914 65.5 | SW. ....-| Pleasant. Dt ee \)9ipimiscetes: .994 | 56.5 .924 | 57 SW. ...-| Pleasant. tS oe eee kee Sinrise=. . 970 51 914 53 S....---.| Pleasant; clouds. WS Seen eenvices owe 7 GRD tae e 28. 082 57 28. 011 71 6 taeeees Cloudy. ——— Mean seas s eee pee Sacc sal cocnesace oc oe icon 27. 930 66 Camp No. 16. ENTS. SB SSa pecs Sees| Dipemeate-—- 28. 192 80 28. 063 78.7 | W......-| Pleasant; smoky. 1h: ee cer ic Cpr mr.cee =~ . 334 72 - 225 71.5 | SW. .-.-| Pleasant. 1B Uo esion a somes eee i Pups cos. - 260 68 . 161 68 SW. ...-.| Fair. 1b eer mec osc cic 9\pim.c..2--- 27.950" | 62.5 . 865 62.5 0 Fair. WA Sieco seas nteee Sunrise .-..-. - 606" | 37 . 585 39 SW. ....| Fair. TASS ee eee GiarMeiheras 28. 070 40.5 - 040 42 BE eeoees Fair. MGAaN (ope oeeen| cen aneee eae Bie erg cei je exan td) 65 METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 607 Barometric and Meteorological Observations—Continued. Locality and date. Camp No. 17. Aug. Camp No. 20, ( Atahnam river, near the Yakima.) Aug. Aug. } | | | 27. 28. No. 1. 4204 . 692 . 670 - 539 . 548 - 566 OVO OV ON orn | Barometer Attached Barometer therm. corrected. | 27. 066 . 239 . 255 274 aT ie 27. 222 28. 029 . 065 27. 968 28. 264 - 290 . 300 . 287 248 . 018 . 296 270 319 . 296 217 . 301 . 800 -o7L .514 474 . 498 - 425 Air ther- momet’r. -5 48 83.5 Wind. Remarks. Fair. Fair. Fair. Fair. Fair. Fair; smoky. Fair. Fair. Fair; smoky. Fine; smoky. Pleasant. Pleasant. Pleasant. Fair; slight dew. Fair. Fair. Fair. Cloudy. Cloudy. Fair. Fair. | Fair. Clear. Rainy. Light rain. Cloudy. Cloudy. Cloudy and rainy. Fair; heavy dew. Fair. Fair. Fair. Fair. Fair. Fair. Fair; smoky. Fair. Fair. Fair. Fair; smoky. Fair. Fair. Fair. Fair. Fair. Fair. Fair. Fair. a The observations of barometer from this date to 29th August are of No. 2, and are not used in computation. 608 METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. Barometric and Meteorological Observations—Continued. Locality and date. Aug: 2405228 seee asia Hour. | No. 1. | Sipe == 28, 496 Spi.» ase <> -518 Sunrise ..---. 472 9 a. Mm....--<.| 546 > p. M..------ | 498 9\p.m.scee ee 442 Sunrise ...--. | 478 Ota, M.-.-sese) 422 3p. M...---<- 450 9 p.m...----- 382 Sunrise .----- 200 ifs Whee ates 450 SiPi Ms = late Se m0 402 “) Ds tbsoesens 352 Sunrise ..---..! 394 Pa Mien s—=e - 462 Spa Neae saa | 456 Oipyive wee aa . 530 Sunrise ..--.. 530 UES ses o 604 Oo Dei e eee - 592 Olpimeseseaee 280 | Sunrise ..---.! . 194 78s Mase soe . 184 WIP Sibeseoa aes . 224 12. msssesse de . 194 3p. M.-.----- 118 Gipitt se. . 030 Ce ehititecasace 27, 940 Sunrise ...... . 966 fas see eee - 942 12jmisa sae 28. 050 Be peace ceed . 138 Gipam:senen== 4 38 OS) PEM baat . 168 Sunrise ...... . 206 Of GSU secoses . 200 ESS eaeeooos . 260 1-25 Pee . 256 Op laesee eae ~214 ip Miia. = == - 154 Oipese eee. . 090 Sunrise ....-. . 150 Ue ee 174 2 Meese eas . 202 Op Mrs ess= - 166 Gipson sen - 148 ON Pri nate sertete - 138 Sunrise ...-.. . 124 | Gypi yaaa 28. 434 Op arses se - 464 Sunrise ...... . 550 Wf Bbe Mihi ote Sin iae 9904 10) Ay Miso... - 920 AD iMieewahas ae / . 870 Sip Mercia a- . 834 Opi Mrevee =n . 760 Sunrise ...... . 872 Olav peers . 950 oO) Pihrsccnee . 840 therm -100(2) | 57 59 82 78 64 538 82 90 72 64 82 88 55. 54 vis 84 64 52. 74 72. 64 54 62 80 92 97 738 76 53. 51 51. 67 54 47, 41 53 63 71.5 68 53 ce 59 49.5 49 63 70 76 73 49.5 42.5 7.5 57 | | Barometer Attached Barometer Air ther- corrected. momet’r. 28. 356 - 412 - 498 - 901 812 . 748 . 720 - 706 - 836 . 849 . 766 100 (?) 57 58 81 78. 65 58. 81 88 72 65 80 88 56 54 73 84 64 52 72 73 64 54 62. 80 OL 97 78 76 54 51 52 65 on or oO ou Wind. A = NW | Pair; Remarks. Pleasant. Pleasant. Clear. Fair. Pleasant. Pleasant. | Fair. Fair. Pleasant. Pleasant. Fair. Fair. Cumulous clouds. Cumulous clouds. Fair. | Clouds. Cloudy. | Cloudy. | Fair; cumuli. | Pleasant. | Pleasant. Clear. | Clear. Clear. Fair. | Pleasant. Cumulous clouds. Cloudy. Cloudy. Rainy. Driving rain; high wind. Rainy. Cloudy ; pleasant. Cloudy. Cloudy. Pleasant; clouds. Pleasant; clouds. Pleasant; clouds. Pleasant; clouds. Cloudy. Cloudy. Clear. Cloudy. Cloudy ; rainy. Cloudy. Cloudy. Cloudy. Cloudy. Cloudy. Cloudy. Cloudy. Clear. Clear. Fair; clouds. clouds. clouds. ; clouds. ; clouds. Fair; clouds. Fair; clouds. a Barometer “No. 2,” not used in computation, is again recorded to 9 a. m., September 12, commencing at this date. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 609 Barometric and Meteorological Observations—Continued. Barometer Attached! Barometer Air ther-- Wind. Locality and date. Hour. No. 1. | | | Sept. (Stasceseeee=- ==> Opa esa= oe | 28.748 | 42 (aS aon cessceesoo Sunrise ..---- 682 Sanh) (yng hccboceee ce Ova Mike ee | 870 70 Ghee eeese ooo ten Bye ilsesosas 800 | 73 Grasesiesas cacreome Me Wh Sones 608 | 42.5 Usace cososeescoce | Sunrise ------ 640 32 t/Sacecpeeeeoe nen (Oval m)Ssesese 880 | 49.5 a 55,20 [Pein ania sae ts 962 | 81 Uineeeos onbRCH OSS | yas Wile Seger 168 | 48 Becooko ona esssoe Sunrise -.--. 610 44 Budden. cee eee ISOka mn Scie os 754 fond Bia Seat cerca Si peg My eetelera > 650 75 Bbssessecesteesds Sg Wi ernccsen 568 | 44 Creme aos nab case. Sunrise ------ 550 | 25 ee ee ee Qkas tie ase 2- 982 72.5 Qe eto asso pace Bt jl Gon see d94 | 77 CD eee Seas Sipeniyase a= 166 | 56 LO Se reat weer Sunrise ....-. 926 | 30.5 iW oSosnee eee eos. Olasm) acseace 650 73 ee erro >) P- (a) saee = 626 69.5 SI see tes ee Oipameneee: 540 | 48 Hlesesecscdnes2es Sunrise ...-.. | 544 43 Themes neon eee oe | Dia eerie as! 820 71.5 MWSseoosecacdeccad Sips Misease. 726 81 Whee esoc abonesocos | 2 jt Wie ocosse 690 52 ECC RECe oem ooe | Sunrise ...--. 656 32 Nemec narApere sane iam aseeeee 648 64 Woesecs ores ce oece Opp a ne ee 288a | 55 Wacoconcosoemense) Ei). ie coocce 264 45 UP -Scega0ncodascas Sunrise ...--- 224 37.5 PS eaeiete se amaretto asm sancen 250 71 IS aero & craton tases 12m) seeseeee 210 83 [Gi Saeasecsernoene (e3 pause eee 134 76 Deas eee acters ae. 6p. mn =. eee 114 64 [Pisecsancesesec=s IaSipsumny= sae 216 58 1 Same ceenne Sunrise ...-.. 140 52.5 te ene eee cee | Diasms see. | 172 70 WAS soos cass sae him Sees | 124 | 68.5 eee ono bee oes SO PoM ens see | 050 6L Me so cten osee=s Gipane ae 014 56 1 pep eeeosaener Sipe essa 062 53 Loss sceecces cess Sunrise ...... 020 44 eee oat aaa eee Oa. DA sees 002 61 Lous So 23lconcercas Hgesce Sipe meee O00 See 67 42 N ..-----| Clear. DO aes Sas all Sunrise ..-... 026 | 37 27.005 | 37 | NW.----| Clear. Bonne. We koel scesecraieee petttt sees fee theod: 26.987 | 43.7 | | | SS. SS Camp No. 32. | Sept. 29-2. -----. .----- Gapineeereeerl 27. 968 4] | 27. 937 4t Wie ==) Olean Weecseseeca cased Sunrise .-.--- | . 880 39 . 354 39 | W...----| Clear; heavy dew. | —_——] | INGE ge Bodies Maaoecccocern] bepececae eeaeree el baer acciaa] iam (aaa SS 5 Camp No. 33. | | | RENE BlecescorseascaeSs 3) jis Wh saeco OBN50dan et eet os 74 SWi.ceee Clear. SQ Ss -a<-cc 5eeemess Gipamia- === ADO esate | ese esaine 60 lSictsesses Clear. Oct lbs eee oeesse eos Sunrise ..---- 27.8380 | 40 27. 851 41 | 13) possess Clear. Up eeee eae eae (toe, Sac 682 | 70 .579 63 SE .....-] Clear. Ue coeee noc GreAad Bib Mik! oasae! OSG | 7777 28. 532 75 | SW. ..--| Clear. Hee eomesoosce- | OP ie cscess| -600 | 58 | . 024 59 SW.. .---| Clear. tes cee cose a5 Sunrise .----- - 602 40 . 573 40 SW. ...-.| Fair. Mean.....---- Ngee att ata [babel 9.2 an 27.612 | 56.6 | | ——————— | Camp No. 34, Barrier river. | | Oct. 2.----- ---2 +--+ | 6 p.m.--....- | 28.960 | 61 | 28.876 | 60 Wisc coosl| SHAE. oeeccoopacss ----| 9 p-m..--...- 882 51 824 50 Wivous Goce] lal ite Piserece cosncodcosl| SUN shooce 29. 008 45 965 5 W. -. ...-| Cloudy. NIGH ERS ee eoeo | SeSe core Deeeco) seecoe sond|sosocene| 28. 888 51.7 _ SS Camp No. 35, north branch | of the Columbia. | Ostet 3 ae Seo lGipams.oeerhe~ 29.420 | 66.5 | 29.319 | 66.5 | NW. -.--| Clouds; fair. Seascos cas ccecae Bl Ds tibearoncs . 366 D4 On| 298 54 Wet ores! Clouds; fair. Be Cee ee scenes Sunrise......-. . 380 40 300 | 40 N..-- ---| Clear. Nah. So aoc a So |, 29.322 | 53.5 | : _ = a | Camp No. 36, Okinakane | river. | Oatee 422eeeeeeent Soeas|| Ieee 5 cen 29. 398 72 29. 286 71 INe==-l==| Clear (Ne posses 6S Cece|! jt tbsssone . 300 77 | 203 | 75 Neji Clear: 4.2 er eae | @irotikeeseoce peel || Bee Sul) ts) N...- ---| Clouds; fair. a2 yes Oth sscosed| ol |) EW) i oUeG} ii) NW. ----| Clouds; fair. Ee deere eee ae Sunrise ...... . 164 41 | ~ 131 4) SW. ----) Cloudy. Die une 2 eeeel Be sereeatieahs |ee e cabsuccw nad | 29.198 | 59.0 | —————— — } Camp No. 37, Okinakane | | | river. Citi, Grecceeeeasasased Sunset ...-.-- 29. 104 of 29. 006 66 | iNWoesecc Cloudy. Gueerenaccee= ses Sunrise...----. 27 41 | 245 | 41 | NE .--- -| Clouds. iV eee Oe nen 4 Ee Cems ee ee | 29.125 | 53.5 | ——— ————-| Camp No. 38, Okinakane river. Oct, (G2-2= see eee Sunset.-... -- 29. 182 62 | 29. 095 61 S. .-.. --| Cloudy. RE ea accord Oi Pateera sa = e149) 4925. sD) 49 Boeeea a) Cloudy. (iecepcsos-eosctcss Sunrise ....-- . 195 45 - 152 45 | NW. ----| Cloudy. Meanecveeaee|pateee == -2.2--[-c2 =: ptece |e teeta 29.122 | 51.7 a Aneroid No, 7992 not computed. Norr.—The barometrie observations for the remainder of the route are of the aneroids, and have no value in determina- tions of altitudes. The temperature observations are continued, in a different arrangement, as far as Fort Colville, with some references to the readings of the anervid barometer. 612 METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS, Meteorological Observations on route Thermometer. to Fort Colville. Date. Locality. Weather. Sunrise. 9a m. 12 m. 3 p. m. Sunset. 9 p.m. | Och. a7aN Campene SOB ts [s.r sacs |sn Soret ees lane coe, eee |e eee Clear; wind N. kane river. | | ref) | (6) 0) | Seeeeeeel RAR ree 6orlipoeeac Cons | So cmaasagas bose gocteas De be [spasecenks Cloudy, OmeCamp: 40. ~~. a8 46 gp |sicoi ccs eee el eee ee Bee eess Cloudy. 9) "n woute- 2-2 elooes- ian 68 | 59 pe meiste coos leeeaeaees Cloudy. 95}, Camp! 42-2. - 3-4 |seacescees [Seierniemiee lemma mmo Pare 64 Hee teeta | Cloudy. 10) Gainp Ale aeeoeee | 54 | 56.5 GOie Pale Glue lg 154 peal some cet | Cloudy. 14) Camp rail eeeseees | 53.5 | 525 D9) palll| - Stietllcoseecees Worera'ssraaroe | Cloudy; rain at 3 p. m.; | | strong SE. wind. 1 | (‘Camp)42e reese Se isseio-o | Ponce >.ceean| occea cons laese one aee 54 | aoa oe Cloudy. 12 | Camp 42....-.... 45 AOD s|iasmoss coe BGR oe | See one papain eee Pleasant. 12 En route | Clouds; S. wind. 12 | Camp 43. Fair. 13. Camp 4 | Cloudy; E. wind. 13. En route Fair. 13, Camp 44 Clouds; wind W. & NW. 14 | Camp 44......... | 38 | Ah eee ae | swaawetdl|\ deeee seucelacee.s case | Rain; E. wind. 14 | En route......-..| Seeman) wae] Nese ees 58.5 | DOD Wal eascon somal seeces acs Rainy until 11 a. m. [4gNCamp 45.2.2 )ccalerecoaecee eee eee Sees [seas pe ae 48 46.5 | Cloudy. 15 | Camp 45.......-. |e 4D Be) P5055 weeeesy oc ce [soetee cess crete cess teers eee | Clouds and rain. 1G) || OO iSee5 oace| pqosac tea lbonadoacs- | ii epee ocecl Mooeansooe lssopescae Cloudy. 150 Cam prab 2 oe eeeleccaee eae [eeeeeepeeee Sco aee bear 5S! Oeglcoat cee | Fair. 16 | Camp 46 Cloudy; E. wind. 16 | En route Clear. 16 Camp 47 al Cloudy. Wa (Campray = - 2. -..| 39 | CR Bo Soene seal Pees te aera ml eyes ea Cloudy; W. wind. 17 | En route....... [ers dover esters ae i ed eee ee a es See aaa | Cloudy. Za kCamp! 48. 225.,-2.3|scssaree oe Bee ae aoe Sener el eee 48.5 40 Cloudy. 18 | Camp 48..........| 38.5 42 BOD fe Se SMe eRe Sei ce oe ae Clouds ; W. wind. 18)\Camp) 1495 (ont aoc o soca cosoecas 50.5 49 River at a stand. ty Ulf Wace cece nood||semecocese.cacs 51.5 50.5 Do. ue Th Weceecoce case 4 5] 49.75 Fall. « TY Waseca ecesecos|soreco Aose.psod 52 50.5 River at a stand. 20 BO Ncosdécecbactasss 52.5 51.75 Commence to rise. be 21 1% Retene -socccna 52 50.5 “ 22 Sue Llc Se eee 49.9 48.5 a 23 AR |eaieeememcnlo== 51.5 50 . 24 Bae eseessaeeatece Bi I 51 sf 25 (hr el Se Beeemcoacacs 55 53. 1 & 26 Gt = eeseseeecrccag 56 53.5 Us 27 Vie WeeeeoeeEmsneco 55.5 54 “ 28 Lee era 59 54.5 ue 29 ie! ° Sa eae 58. 75 54.9 a 30 124 BAe a Sassi sme 57.5 55 sf July 1 1 2 eee 51 47.75 Water clear. " 2 (oo Veseceeaneaneaea 52.5 48 e 8 Wises secre Seats odds seCnno 52.75 48.5 Stand, 616 RISE AND FALL OF THE COLUMBIA RIVER. Highest. - -- Highest. - -. Observations of the Columbia river, Sc.—Continued. Rise. Fall. Temperature | Temperature Remarks. of air. of water. | Inches. Inches. 2 ° a =0% 5550555] FARe eee coos 53 48.75 | Stand. ee eee ale = 4 53:75 43.5 Fall. ae 3 54.5 49 ) Snes coe 54 55 49, 75 RIPE Ate 74 55.5 49.9 | eyes. 104 5D 50.5 ee es 134 55. 9 50.9 | =p Sew eSASee 15 56. 75 BYE) 2 | er PRS 2 eas 6h Ef 75 | Bie Water continues clear during fall. bt SEA, 134 55 51.2 3 disia aStaaee's,< 18 55. 75 52 | Shodeeckeme 1€4 56.5 52.5 ates eeenteess 144 56 52. | Soe Ee eenc 12 56, 75 52. 2 | See eee t= 6 57.5 53 bie saenioser 24 58 53.5 River about the usual stage. 1598 2074 121} above spring level. 2074 above summer level. CORRESPONDENCE. Onympra, WASHINGTON TERRITORY, December 12, 1853. Dear Sir: I find it of great consequence to the survey to make certain examinations of the passes in the Cascade range during the winter—examinations really indispensable to a reliable preliminary report the present session of Congress. If you and your party are not altogether too much exhausted by your protracted labors, I wish you to take an important part in these examinations. There are two passes in the Cascade range, about fifteen and thirty-five miles, respectively, north of Mount Rainier. The first pass, called the Nahchess Pass, follows along the Nahchess tributary of the Yakima river, and was pursued by the emigrants the present year. The second or northern pass, called the Snoqualme Pass, is along the main Yakima river, and up a broad open valley, and the dividing ridge is only three thousand five hundred feet above the sea. The Nahchess Pass is five thousand feet above the sea. The climate in the Puget Sound district is of extraordinary mildness, and modifies greatly the climate of the Cascade passes. The Snoqualme Pass, Iam perfectly satisfied from the information I have received, is practicable for pack-horses every month of the year, excepting that in very severe winters it may be impassable in February. I have therefore to direct that, on your arrival at Wallah-Wallah, you fit yourself out to continue your work to this point over the Cascade mountains by the Snoqualme Pass, and will, for this duty, purchase fresh and sound animals, furnish yourself with at least thirty days’ provisions, secure a good, reliable Indian guide, and start with the determination to push yourself through. I bave left in charge of Mr. Pambrun, the gentleman in charge at Wallah-Wallah, some forty-five animals ; but it is doubtful whether any of them will be equal to the work. By confer- ence with him, with Bomford and Brook, who live at Whitman’s mission, and Pu-pu-mux-mux, the Wallah-Wallah chief, you will be able to secure good animals. Do not take one in trust, however. Have each one thoroughly tested, and be particular in the price. Take some days to fit yourself out in the most complete manner. You will need some axes and a good supply of matches. On the route you must be on your guard not to be misled by wrong information. It is believed here that the priests at the Yakima mission, on the line of your route, are in the habit of repre- senting the country and the climate in the worst possible light, in order to discourage settlements; and the Indians, you well know, are prone to story-telling. So far from finding the route exceedingly difficult, I am satisfied it will be your quickest and easiest way of reaching this point. On the 8th of November certain Indians came into Wallah-Wallah with the report that the emigrants were obliged to abandon their wagons and animals in consequence of snow in the Nahchess Pass, and that the week previous two Indians turned back, the snow being up to the breasts of their horses; whereas the emigrants saw no snow whatever in the pass, and none fell till the 3d of November, and that to the depth of only four inches. The day they brought in that report, and for a fortnight later, it is not probable there was even one foot of snow at any point of the route. 18h 618 LETTER TO A. W. TINKHAM. The Yakima Indians on your route are civil and obliging, and their chiefs, Tias, Caroni-ach, Ska-loo, and Ouhae, are very friendly. Pu-pu-mux-mux will, I think, be of great assistance to you, and will accompany you, I have no doubt, a part of the way. His influence over the In- dians is very great, and he will be able to secure good guides, and keep down false reports. Say to him I earnestly desire him to accompany you. He has many beef-cattle. It would be well to have driven one or two with your party, to the farthest point they can reach; then kill them, pack what you can, and cache the rest; you have something to eat in case of a reverse. Indians should be got to drive them. You ought to have one or two Indians for herders. Whilst I am confident you will go through without difficulty, I wish every precaution taken to guard against reverses, so that no suffering shall be experienced by yourself or any member of your party. You ought to have snow-shoes. You will, however, proceed with extreme caution and make arrangements at the last Indian village for a depot of provisions, to fall back upon in case of a sudden fall of snow, compelling you to pause for some days; or in case you be satisfied that the route is impassable, and that, contrary to my confident belief and expectation, it is absolutely necessary that you return to Wallah-Wallah. Even this fact will be of great consequence, and will show there are greater difficulties to be encountered than we now look forward to. Provisions you will be able to get of Mr. Pambrun; but it may be you can do better as to procuring beef with Bomford and Brook, or with Pu-pu-mux-mux. I should prefer that you get all you can of Pu-pu-mux-mux. On your route you will make your examinations with your usual care, noting everything of importance pertaining both to rail and wagon roads; and if your barometer is not broken, con- tinuing your barometric profile. In the postscript to this letter I will give the principal facts as regards the western slope of the Cascades, and add a sketch. The route from Wallah-Wallah to this point by the Columbia and the Cowlitz rivers is a long and somewhat disagreeable one. Provisions and animals are to be got at Wallah-Wallah, the Dalles, and Vancouver. Our animals at Wallah-Wallah are in charge of Mr. Pambrun; at the Dalles are in charge of Sergeant Martin, and at Vancouver of Mr. Swissler, an old resident well known there. The road is very good to the Dalles, but somewhat difficult thence, though prac- ticable to Vancouver. Thence there is a practicable trail to this place, some little forage being, however, required, in consequence of a deficiency of grass. Instead, however, of going all the way by land, you can go down the Columbia river to a little village just above the mouth, and on the west bank of the Cowlitz river, called Monticello; whence, taking a light Indian canoe, (a barge or bateau should not be used at this season of the year,) you go up the Cowlitz about thirty-two miles to Cowlitz landing. Thence there is a good road to this place, the distance being about sixty miles. From Vancouver to Monticello the distance is forty-five to forty-eight miles. Should you be compelled to come this way, go to the Dalles by land, provided you are not compelled to purchase animals; thence to Vancouver by the Columbia river, (you can prob- ably get through for about seven dollars per man,) and to this point by land; unless, again, you are obliged to purchase animals. I send herewith a note directing Mr. Pambrun, Sergeant Martin, and Mr. Swissler to deliver up such animals as you may select, or to receive from you such as you may deliver up, giving you receipts therefor. You should have a descriptive list of each animal, and they should, if practicable, be branded. On the two trails from Wallah- Wallah to the Dalles, and from Columbia barracks to this point, the animals should be in good order at this season of the year; packs should not be more than one hundred pounds, and at least half a bushel of oats, barley, or corn, should be taken along for each animal. Very truly, yours, ISAAC I. STEVENS. A. W. Tinxuam, Esq., [ort Wallah-Wallah. N. B.—The enclosed sketch will show how the trail from the pass connects with Sinahomish river and Port Gardner, with the White River valley, and Elliott’s bay. Alki and Seattle are LETTER TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR. 619 two flourishing settlements. It is probable the line of railroad will run either to Port Gardner or to some point north, as Bellingham bay. I will have established at the falls a depot of provisions and two or three men, and I shall send up a party into the pass from this side, which will prob- ably meet you. They may run the line to Bellingham bay. Make the falls a point in your route. Should your animals be exhausted and unfit for further service, send them by one or two men to Steilacoom, and take canoes and go down the river. It is about one day down the river to its mouth, and a day and a half toOlympia. If your animals are strong enough, come through all the way by land. I want you to see how railroads and wagon roads can be brought down from the pass to Steilacoom, including, if practicable, a line to Elliott’s bay. This line is said to be impracticable. I will send forage to the falls. Write me word of your departure from Wallah-Wallah, and take pains to have it forwarded promptly. Orrice NortHern Paciric Ramroap ExpLoraTION AND SurRVEY, Olympia, Washington Territory, December 30, 1853. Str: I have the honor to report the arrival of Lieutenant Arnold, from his route by the northern trail to Colville, and thence by the line of the Columbia river to Wallah-Wallah, and acknowledge his energy and promptitude in making, at this late state of the season, valuable contributions to our knowledge of the country passed over by him. Lieutenant Arnold, under instructions from Lieutenant Donelson, left his camp at the crossing of Clark’s fork, west of the Pend d’Oreille lake, on the 24th of October, witha select party of six men, an Indian guide, and eighteen animals, and reached Colville on the 30th. Here, in pursu- ance of instructions left by me, he ascended the Columbia in canoes and found the mouth of Clark’s fork about two miles north of the 49th parallel, and thus settled a disputed question of geography. His route from Colville to Wallah-Wallah was by the Grand Coulée. The follow- ing extracts from his reports to me, of this date, will give a general view of his route. “Tn accordance with your instructions, I ascended the Columbia to the 49th parallel, which was found to cross the Columbia about two miles south of its confluence with Clark’s fork. My observations in connexion with the survey of this portion of the river were confined to a narrow belt of country, included between two parallel ridges of mountains, whose general directions were north and south. This belt was level, gradually ascending to the north, well wooded, and, even at this late season, covered with fine grass; the soil alluvial and sandy. The mountain ranges are a continuation of those seen along the western bank to the south, to the east presenting one uniform unbroken outline, the first pass being at Colville; the current of the river rapid in the channel, with innumerable eddies and whirlpools along its banks; its bed rocky. Having com- pleted the survey of the Columbia north of Colville, I left the latter place on the 14th of Novem- ber and marched along the east bank of the Columbia for six days—distance, about 110 miles; the trail over a level and wooded country, to the Spokane river, and from the latter place to where the Columbia makes the great bend to the west, and from here to the mouth of the Grand Coulée, exceedingly rough and dangerous; the country to the east and south, after leaving the high banks of the river, undulating. At this point, 110 miles from Colville, I proceeded south from the river, and immediately made an ascent of about 100 feet, when I came to the Grand Coulée. This mighty avenue, about 15 miles to the south, and three to six in width, has a gradual ascent to the south. Its sides are one perpendicular mass of molten rock, about 800 feet in height, and on a level with the grand plain of the Spokane. With the exception of a few trees, seen in this coulée, there is no timber between this coulée and the Columbia. After marching 30 miles, I entered the most southern and second coulée in size. Its general appearance was like the former, and it was about six miles in length, with a more westerly direction. The country between these coulées generally level, with the exception of innumerable smaller ones, like those already mentioned. From the southernmgst coulée to the Columbia the country is level and 620 LETTER TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR. sandy. In short, the section of country included between the Columbia to the north and west, the headwaters of the Peluse and Spokane to the east, and Snake river to the south, is one grand plain; which, near the Columbia, is divided into innumerable chasms, called coulées, running in all directions, and owing their origin to one general cause. From this point to the Columbia the country is one grand level, gradually descending to the south. My trail struck the Columbia about 10 miles north of the Yakima. The distance from the great bend of the Columbia to the west, to the latter point, is about 130 miles. The country from this point to the Columbia is level, my route being along the east bank, crossing Snake river about a quarter of a mile from its mouth; distance 34 miles. The distances given above are mere approximations, which will be corrected when the data is completed.” Captain McClellan, on the 28th instant, left Steilacoom with a small party in canoes to explore the shores of the sound, with reference to the railroad depot, and to ascend the Snohomish river and its tributary, the Snoqualme river, to the Snoqualme falls. From this point, with Indian horses procured in the neighborhood, he will go to the Snoqualme Pass; or, if the snow renders the route impracticable, on snow-shoes, and thence take the railroad down to the sound. Previous to his return to this point he will endeavor to make an examination of the work done oa the military road. I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory. Hon. Jerrerson Davis, Secretary of War, Washington City. Orrice Nortuern Pactric Ratroap ExpLroraTION AND SuRVEY, Olympia, Washington Territory, January 31, 1854. Sir: I have the honor to report that, as announced to you in my letter dated December 19, Captain McClellan left Olympia on the 23d December in a canoe, arriving at Steilacoom that evening. He received verbal instructions to carry down the lines from the Snoqualme Pass to the several good harbors of the sound, going as far northward as Bellingham bay, and to examine the several ports of the same to determine the proper terminus of the railroad. The duty of col- lecting information as to a wagon road along the shores of the sound from Steilacoom to Belling- ham bay, was also assigned to him. Unable to procure horses or guides at Steilacoom, he determined to take canoes to go by the Sinahomish and Snoqualme rivers to the Snoqualme falls, and thence to ascend to the Snoqualme Pass on foot. It was unfortunate that about this time very severe weather set in, the thermometer ranging much lower than at any time last winter, which was one of unusual severity. In consequence of this, and finding considerable snow upon the ground, increasing rapidly as they continued on, Captain McClellan, with his party, afier going seven miles beyond the falls, deemed it imprudent to go farther, and thence returned. Captain McClellan was able, however, to add much to our previous knowledge of the country, and we know from his examinations that the route is somewhat more difficult than has been pre- viously reported. A railroad line can still be brought down, with grades approaching the pass from the east not exceeding fifteen or twenty feet to the mile, and with grades descending to the sound not exceeding sixty feet to the mile, but at the cost of an expensive tunnel. Captain McClellan has prepared a brief report of his operations, written hastily as merely a memorandum, which is extremely interesting. The enclosed is a copy of the same. Further examinations are still requisite before a comparison can be made between this line and that of the Columbia and Cowlitz rivers. While Captain McClellan was making these examinations, I took a trip by sailing-vessel down the sound, continuing as far as Vancouver’s island, my object being to take a census of the Indian LETTER TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR. 621 tribes in that vicinity, and to acquaint myself with the harbors of the sound with reference to the termination of the railroad line. JI was agreeably impressed with Elliott’s bay, on which are the flourishing towns of Seattle and Alki, and [agree entirely with Captain McClellan, in the opinion that it is the best harbor of the sound, and unless the approach to it from the pass should, on a more minute examination, prove less favorable than to some other point, and which is hardly to be expected, that it is the proper terminus of the railroad. During my stay at Seattle, two sailing-vessels arrived directly from San Francisco, only six days from that port. A more com- plete report will be forwarded as soon as the proper data can be obtained. I have now the honor to report that an express messenger reached this place this morning, bearing despatches from Mr. Tinkham, dated Wallah-Wallah, January 2, 1854, stating that, in accogdance with my instructions, he had fitted out his party for the crossing of the Cascade mountains to this point, through the Snoqualme Pass. He was to leave on the 3d of January, and has consequently been out twenty-eight days, and may daily be expected to reach us. Mr. Tinkham had had an adventurous trip since our separation in the St. Mary’s valley. Leaving us at that point, he crossed the rocky mountains through the Marias Pass, between October 7th and 28th. He found that this line involved a tunnel of two miles, and high grades fora railroad, and for a wagon road he deems it impracticable. He encountered no snow of consequence, and afier a short stay at Fort Benton, where he found everything pertaining to the post established at that point in charge of James Doty, Esq., in excellent condition, he recrossed the mountains for the third time within six weeks, taking a new trail, intermediate between the Hell Gate and Black- foot passes, the ones taken respectively by Lieutenant Mullan and the main train. ‘This pass he found entirely practicable for wagons even at this moment. The dividing ridge is a mere hill, its summit but six thousand feet (6,000) above the level of the sea, and so easy of ascent that in ascending to the summit they were enabled to keep a trot, though the road was slippery in con- sequence of a large camp of Pend d’Oreille Indians having preceded them. A portion of this band they passed in the ascent, and afterwards accompanied them through the entire pass. They were returning from the buffalo hunt, and heavily laden with meat. A copy of Mr. Tink- ham’s report, which was written rather hastily at Wallah-Wallah, is herewith enclosed; and I beg leave to call your attention to the extraordinary energy he has shown, not only in his crossings of the Rocky mountains, but when, on the southern Nez Perces trail between St. Mary’s and Wallah- Wallah, he afterwards encountered deep snows, which compelled him to send his animals back to St. Mary’s and to travel on snow-shoes, each man with a pack of from fifty to seventy pounds on his back. They thus made the entire crossing of the Bitter Root mountains in fifteen days, and then, issuing out upon the prairies, they found but little snow, and at the house of an Ameri- can settler which lay in their route they were enabled to procure horses, with which they pro- ceeded to Wallah-Wallah. On his arrival here, which, as I have before mentioned, is anticipated at any moment, he will have completed a most hazardous and adventurous trip, deserving of the highest praise. At Wallah-Wallah Mr. Tinkham found my instructions to pursue the route through the Snoqualme Pass, and a copy of these instructions are enclosed herewith. Mr. Tinkham brought a report from Mr. Doty, who was entering finely upon the field before him, Lieutenant Grover had not returned from his survey of the Missouri between the falls of the Missouri and Fort Union. From Mr. Tinkham’s good success in getting through the snow in the Bitter Root mountains, I am relieved of all apprehension I might have entertained as to the success of Lieutenant Grover, who will set out fully equipped for his adventurous journey. Mr. Tinkham also brought reports from Lieutenant Mullan, and a copy of a report of a reconnais- sance made by him to the headwaters of the Jefferson’s fork of the Missouri is herewith enclosed. At the time of Mr. Tinkham’s leaving the valley, he had established a winter camp, fourteen miles from Fort Owen, up the St. Mary’s valley, and he was employing his men in the erection of four, log-houses, the expense of which will not exceed twenty-five dollars for all. If the opcra- 622 LETTER OF CAPTAIN MCCLELLAN. tions are resumed next season, these houses will serve for the depot of provisions, or otherwise will be available as the quarters of the Indian agent to be appointed in that valley. Lieutenant Mullan reports that the Blackfeet Indians are keeping their promises of peace but faithlessly ; and I would respectfully suggest, that I have strongly recommended to the Indian Department an appropriation for a general Indian council at Fort Benton during the coming season, and that I have set forth the necessity of a military force being present. I would strongly recommend to the War Department the establishment of a military post at or near Fort Benton for the protection of emigrants, to whom, I think, a route is now opened which will compete favorably with that through the South Pass. Ascending the Missouri river with their effects, which has been found to be navigable for steamers to the mouth of Milk river, and will, I believe, be found navigable to the falls of the Missouri by Lieutenant Grover’s survey, and havinggtheir cattle driven along the trails by the river-bank, they will from Fort Benton, and even from the mouth of Milk river, find fair wagou roads to the St. Mary’s valley. By the mail which takes this communication I shall forward a report upon wagon roads, from which it will be seen that but little labor is required to open a tolerably good road through to Wallah-Wallah. Very respectfully, sir, your most obedient servant, ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory, in Command of Exploration. Hon. Jerrerson Davis, Secretary of War, Washington. P. S.—Within six hours of writing the above, Mr. Tinkham reached Olympia from the Sno- qualme Pass, and bringing information of the most important character; the snow deposited in layers of one or two feet, but six or seven feet deep for some six miles, and one and a half foot or more for only about forty-five additional miles, and undisturbed by wind, and offering not the slightest obstruction to the passage of trains. The grades good to Seattle, with a tunnel of con- siderable length. I herewith enclose a copy of Mr. Tirkham’s report, and cannot too much com- mend the energy and judgment which he has shown in crossing, in mid-winter, the Cascade range, and actually bringing to the sound the route of the Snoqualme Pass, and thus accomplish- ing what had not been done by the previous labors of tb expedition. Outympia, W. T., January 31, 1854. Sir: In compliance with your instructions of this date, I have the honor to submit the follow- ing memoranda of my late trip to the vicinity of the Snoqualme falls. December 23.—Left Olympia in a canoe, manned by three Indians, for Steilacoom. The party consisted of Mr. J. F. Minter, Mr. Bigsby, and three men—Roche, Nicholls, and Lisette. Reached Steilacoom shortly after dark. As my original intention was to take horses at Steila- coom for the Snoqualme falls, and thence proceed as far as practicable on snow-shoes, in the mean time sending a canoe to meet me with provisions at the falls, I spent five days at Steila- coom in endeavoring to procure animals and guides. The few Indians who knew the trail were not to be induced to go—representing that the streams could not be crossed, &c., &c. I also found that still further delay would be necessary to procure the requisite animals, and that there was no certainty of their being ultimately procured. I therefore changed my plan, and deter- mined to go by water to the falls, and proceed as far as possible on foot. On the 29th I left Steilacoom, late in the afternoon, with two canoes, reaching the mouth of . the Sinahomish late on the first of January. This river empties into Port Gardner, directly opposite Gedney island. At its mouth are extensive sand-flats, quite thickly covered with large trees that have probably been swept down the river in high water. The harbor between the flats and Point Elliot, although a very fair one, is by no means suitable for the terminus of a great railroad. LETTER OF CAPTAIN MCCLELLAN. 623 Being greatly retarded by high water, we did not reach the vicinity of the falls until January 7, where we encamped about three-quarters of a mile below the falls, having occupied six days in making a distance of some fifty-two miles. Thus far the weather had beev intensely cold, but on the 7th it moderated somewhat; and on the morning of the Sth I started on foot with Messrs. Minter and Bigsby, and Lisette, to reach a prairie said to be above the falls, and endeavor to verify, by actual observation, the Indian state- ments as to the depth of the snow, &c. The trail passed for about three miles on the north side of the river, was very hilly and much obstructed by brushwood and snow. We then crossed the river in a small canoe, and found our- selves at the edge of the prairie; walking on about two miles, we reached the bivouac of the Indian horse-guard. Before arriving at the falls, I had met quite a number of Snoqualme Indians (among them the chief, Pat Canem,) and some Yakimas, spending the winter on this side of the mountains. I uniformly made inquiries of them in relation to the mountains, snow, &c., and endeavored to procure guides. One Yakima gave a reluctant consent to accompany me as far towards the pass as it was possible to go, but the next morning he flatly refused to go, saying that he would surely lose his life in the attempt. The statement of all these Indians, given at different times and places, was uniformly the same, and to this effect: That on the prairie we could find little or no snow; that as we left the prairie we could find the snow gradually increase in depth until, at the falls of the Nooksai-Nooksai, (at the head of which valley is the pass improperly called the Snoqualme Pass,) it would be about to the arm- pits, and thence towards the summit gradually increase to the depth of some 25 feet; in addition, that it is so light and dry as to make the use of snow-shoes impracticable; but that at the expi- ration of “*two moons and a half” (about the end of March,) the snow would pack down and harden so that either horses or snow-shoes might be used. I found the prairie to be about as represented—in places bare, but in others with three or four inches of snow. Leaving my companions at the Indian bivouac to make the best preparations they could for passing the night, (for we had neither tent, blanket, nor overcoat,) I went forward on the trail with two Indians. As soon as we left the prairie the ground became entirely covered with snow ; it soon became a foot deep in the shallowest spots, and was constantly increasing. All signs of a trail were obliterated—the underbrush very thick and loaded with snow—the snow unfit for snow-shoes, according to the Indians. I now turned back to our bivouac, and there awaited the arrival of an Indian who was out hunting, and who was said to possess much information about the country. He soon arrived, and proved to be a very intelligent Yakima, whom I had seen on the other side of the mountains in the summer. He had been hunting in the direction I wished to go, and stated that the snow soon increased to “ waist-deep” long before reaching the Nooksai-Nooksai, and that it was positively impracticable to use snow-shoes. He also said that the Indians did not pretend to cross the mountains at this season, but waited until about the end of March, and then took their horses over. Next morning, after again questioning this Indian, I reluctantly determined to return, being forced to the conclusion, that if the attempt to reach the pass were not really impracticable, it was at least inexpedient under all the circumstances in which I was placed. On the 10th T started down the river, and on the evening of the 11th camped near the mouth. The prairie above the falls is about two and a half miles in length, by some three-quarters of a mile in width. The soil is of black loam and is very rich; in summer it is covered with grass and fern. There were about eighteen Yakima horses there at the time of our visit, all in very poor condition; several died this winter, and probably more will meet the same fate before spring. I estimated the height of the falls to be 130 to 150 feet high; they are very beautiful. The Sinahomish forks about eighteen miles trom its mouth ; the north fork is called the Sky- whamish, and the south fork the Snoqualme. The general course from the mouth of the Sina- 624 LETTER OF CAPTAIN MCCLELLAN. homish to the falls of the Snoqualme is 8. 17° E. There are also falls on the Skywhamish, the Nooksai-Nooksai, (that branch of the D’Wamish which heads in the pass,) the Steilaghaumish, the Seatchel, &c. Above the falls of the Nooksai-Nooksai is a large lake. With the exception of one small prairie, (now cultivated by the Indians,) about ten miles below the falls, the bottom of the Sinahomish and Snoqualme is very indifferent, generally consisting of pure sand, covered with one or two inches of soil. The section of the bluffs is of sand, clay and gravel, occasionally argillaceous rock, stratified and unstratified. The timber is generally poor— a great deal of cotton-wood, indifferent cedar, and fir; maple and alder are also met with. In some places there are small tracts of good fir and cedar. There is said to be some good land on the Skywhamish a few miles above its junction with the Snoqualme. The Skywhamish is rather the larger of the two. Near the mouth of the Sina- homish are extensive cranberry swamps. The bottoms are usually wide, flat, and subject to overflow ; occasionally, ridges border the stream. There is a foot-trail from a point on the Sno- qualme, about eight miles below the falls, to the large lake behind Seattle ; one day from the Snoqualme to the lake—one more to Seattle, in a canoe. If there is any coal in the valley of the Sinahomish it will be found some little distance back, in a bluff about twelve miles above the mouth. The river would be easily navigable for small steamers to this point, in low water. From the mouth of the Sinahomish I went, via Port Susan and the canoe channel, to the head (north extremity) of Macdonough’s island, intending to proceed to Bellingham bay. We en- camped on the island the night of the 12th. During that night six inches of snow fell, and a violent gale arose, so that on the next day we were unable to proceed. On the next day, (14th,) the wind still continuing dead ahead, and very violent, I turned back, taking the Saratoga passage, and encamped that night on Gedney island, where there is an excellent spring. On the 15th camped on the small lake which connects with the salt water, about five miles to the north of Seattle. On the 16th reached Seattle; the floating ice gave us much trouble. On the morning of the 17th abandoned the idea of going up the D’Wamish, the ice being so thick and abundant as to close the passage. Reached Steilacoom, in a heavy gale, on the 18th. The result of my examination as to harbors is, that of all the harbors between the north end of Whidby’s island and Olympia, that of Seattle is by far the best, being well protected against the wind, having thirty fathoms of water, a most excellent holding-ground, being easily ap- proached from the Straits of Fuca, and having a good back country. It is, therefore, in my opinion, the proper terminus for any railroad extending to the waters commonly known as Puget sound. I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, GEO. B. McCLELLAN, Lieutenant Engineers and Bot. Capt. U. S. Army. His Excellency I. I. Srevens, Chief of the Northern Pacific Railway Survey. The majority of Snoqualme Indians are now at Seattle, Alki, and Steilacoom. There are now but seven of their houses near the falls, and some four Yakima houses. Ishould have stated that the barometer taken with us was entirely unfit for use. From the point above the Snoqualme falls where we turned back, we obtained a good view of the country towards the pass. LETTER OF A. W. TINKHAM. 625 Fort Watian-W ALLAH, January 2, 1854. Dear Str: Your express reached me very opportunely. I arrived here Friday evening, De- cember 30, and McIntosh came in the next day. Acting under instructions delivered in St. Ma- ry’s valley, [had already made my preparations, and two days later I should probably have been again moving westward. I should, however, as formerly directed, have taken the route pursued by the emigrants, and crossed the Cascade range by the Nahchess Pass. A brief note about my movements since leaving you in St. Mary’s valley. Winding along the hills edging upon the western border of Flathead lake, and tracing first the main stream of Clark’s fork, and then its northeastern fork till this stream ran out, we attained the summit of Marias Pass on the 20th of October, without snow, but with the snow flying in the air as we crossed. Camp- ing in the valley, immediately under the mountains, on the eastern side, that night it commenced snowing, and from that time until we made our third passage of the Rocky mountains the weather was generally cold and snowy. The pass I find to be impracticable as a wagon route, and available for a railroad only with high grades, for about twenty-five miles, and with a tunnel of at least two miles in length, the mountain work being also generally rock cutting. The height of the pass is about 7,500 feet. The long approach to the summit led me to hope for a better result. Descending on the eastern slopes the next day after the passage, we attained the prairies soon after noon, while our time from Flathead lake to the summit was about a week. On the plains the temperature was quite low during the week that we were getting to Fort Benton, moderating as we approached the Missouri, but for the most of the time rating in the morning as low as 3° to 5° above zero Fahrenheit. Two mules were left on the plains before we could get to the fort. At the fort there was no snow. We arrived there on the 28th day of October, having had a longer trip than was antici- pated, with animals a good deal tired, and out of provisions. The Piegan boy, acting as guide to Lander, was left at the fort. I found Mr. Doty almost destitute of serviceable animals, having just despatched the best of his stock to Lieutenant Grover. Some dozen or thirteen animals, including three government animals, had also just been stolen by the Indians, so that from Mr. Doty I was unable to obtain more than five animals which proved of use to me. Of the stolen animals I learned more subsequently, which will be referred to in my report. The last day of October we crossed the Missouri just below the fort, and the day being well spent, encamped soon after on a small tributary, just hid from the main river by the high banks rising on either side of the river in that vicinity. That night it commenced snowing again, and so continued during a great portion of the time, until we were on the western side of the mount- ains. The passage of the mountains was made by the trail used by the Flatheads in going to and from the buffalo ground, lies between Cadotte’s Pass and the pass traversed by Lieutenant Mullan, and descends into the plains by Hell Gate fork, intersecting Lieutenant Mullan’s route some two or three days after passing the summit. This is the trail almost always used by the Flatheads; and knowing no such stream as Jefferson’s fork, our guide supposed, and probably will always suppose, that, as directed by you, he carried us through the great Flathead trail at the head of Jefferson’s fork, this being the principal trail used in the buffalo hunt. Did I care to undeceive him, it would have been too late when I became convinced that what I had already supposed was true. I, however, gave no preference to the examination of the pass on the head of Jefferson’s fork, especially as my instructions left me free to the action of my judgment, and the cold and snow were urging us forward to as speedy transit of the mountains as was possible. November the 10th we made our third passage of the mountains, crossing in com- pany with a large party of Pend d’Oreilles, and from this time forward our usually lonely march was enlivened constantly with the presence of Indians—Pend d’Oreilles, Flatheads, and a few Nez Perces—moving forward in common with us, and with their multitude of animals always in T9f 626 LETTER OF A. W. TINKHAM. sight, stretching along the trail for miles. The Indians were loaded down with meat, and among the multitude of horses one could scarcely detect a single animal free from pack or rider. Trav- elling somewhat faster than the Indians, each day would bring us among a new set, who, crossing the mountains before us, were pretty well down the valley when we were on the summit. The height of the pass is about 6,000 feet above the sea, the dividing ridge being a mere hill, of not over half the height of that of Cadotte’s Pass ; sloping off gently on the western side, and rising, not abruptly, on the eastern side. It may, perhaps, give a better idea of this ascent to notice our passage up it. The Indians got in movement before us, and, with the passage of their animals and lodge-poles, the road soon became icy and slippery. At the foot of the hill our animals got crowded in with those of the Indians, and, anxious to get our packs by themselves and free, Pearson drove past the Indians on a trot, making his way by as he passed up the hill. Wagons could be carried up without difficulty. The second crossing of the Missouri was made under such circumstances as to force our guide for awhile to abandon the route which he intended to pursue, and brought us for awhile in among the rocks crowding upon the river. The weather was very cold, the river high and rapid, and filled with floating ice, and he did not dare to make the passage where he intended. There was accordingly about forty miles here until we struck in upon a trail which wound some distance back from the river, which is not practicable for the passage of wagons, and could not be made so at any reasonable expense. I have no doubt that in this interval a wagon road can be found, either passable in its present condition, or which can be made so at a reasonable expense. Ar- riving at St. Mary’s, and having there an interpreter, I was informed that this is the case. With this exception, I consider that a wagon could be carried from Fort Benton to St. Mary’s by the route which I pursued, and in its present condition. I do not mean to say that the route should not be worked over, but only that an emigrant could pass over the route without encountering greater obstacles than an emigrant ought to be prepared to meet and overcome, and in a time not greater than three weeks; sometimes, to be sure, doubling his team, and sometimes taking to the river when the trail passes along a too steep side-hill; but these occasions are rare. The desceut by Hell Gate fork is much superior to that by Blackfoot fork. The wagon route across the mountains, I believe, will be found easier by Hell Gate fork than by any other passage, for per- haps a hundred miles north or south of it. The railroad route, I think, is better by Cadotte’s Pass, or by the one which Mr. Lander reconnoitred by the north fork of Sun river, simply because the approach to the mountains from the eastern prairie is much easier and cheaper for a railroad, avoiding the rocky and turbulent character of the country in which the Missouri is for some distance involved above the falls. 'The immediate approach and passage of the mountains at the head of Hell Gate fork is good. A tunnel of not over one mile in length, without high grades, would probably effect the passage. The valley of this fork is also better for a railroad than the Blackfoot fork. On the 17th November I reached the camp of Lieutenant Mullan. The regret which I felt, to some extent, at not being able to examine the pass at the head of Jefferson’s fork, is diminished by learning that Lieutenant Mullan examined the country at the head of this fork, and the report of his survey, transmitted by me, is forwarded with this communication. Lieutenant Mullan I found in camp about fourteen miles above Fort Owen, and on the 19th of November, with a liberal supply of good animals (twenty-five in number) to guard against the ‘anticipated severities of the Bitter Root mountains, I left the agreeable and comfortable quarters of Camp Stevens, and once more turned towards the mountains. In St. Mary’s valley there was no snow, and, in fact, we had a mild rain while I was there. ‘Towards the close of the week succeeding we were at the foot of the mountains dividing the waters of St. Mary’s river from the waters making into Lewis’s fork. Immediately on turning out of the valley of St. Mary’s to follow up its southwesterly fork, its bright, open character was lost, and the valley was narrow and chilly, the snow lying on the ground and the grass growing scattered LETTER OF A. W. TINKHAM. 627 and scanty. The snow continued to increase in depth until, as the valley ran out, it was quite two feet deep. Thence onward over the mountains for some distance, (about thurty miles,) the snow was from two to three feet deep, the horses toiling slowly through it, and getting but little to eat. Our least day’s journey was six miles. Descending to the valley of a stream with which I was then unacquainted, and then supposed, from the information which our Nez Perces guide gave me, to be a branch of the Lou-Lou fork of St. Mary’s river, the snow again died out. Leaving this stream, the trail again took to the hills, much to my disappointment; and some half dozen miles from this stream, and about nine days after leaving St. Mary’s, I was shut up in the snow at least four feet deep, with a steep hill before us, up which it was impossible for the animals to make their way. By breaking out the path on foot, then following with the spare animals, then the riding- animals with their saddles, and last the pack-animals, I had succeeded thus far in making my way along. It being near night then, I camped on the spot, and, as everything which could afford them food was buried deep beneath the snow, the animals were turned back to seek the pasture they had left in the morning. The next day was spent in reconnoitring ahead and break- ing out a path. Ahead nothing could be discovered but snow and hills. That night it snowed heavily, adding some two feet. Attempting to regain the animals, I became convinced that it was impossible to get them any farther ahead, and immediately commenced preparing for the - balance of the journey on foot. At this camp I remained a week, making snow-shoes and sleds, and, as the snow eventually gave place to a rain, in tramping roads. At the end of the week the animals were once more brought to the trench, and once more, just at night, were shut up in their narrow path, walled in by the snow. Our efforts were, however, utterly useless; our road would not sustain them, and a few minutes’ struggling was sufficient to wear out our best horses. Convinced that any further delay would not only be useless but dangerous, I moved forward next day with snow-shoes, and packs on our backs. We had twenty-five good animals in the mountains, which, if left there, would almost to a certainty be every one dead before the close of winter; and with a considerable addition of valuable property in the shape of saddles, blankets, arms, &c., and the peculiarity of my position induced me to make a proposition to my men which, under other circumstances, [ should not feel justified in doing; but with these considerations will, I trust, meet with your approval. Pearson and French were sent back with the animals and all that was valuable of the public property, and to them I guarantied (subject to your approval) the extra compensation of twenty dollars per animal, should they succeed in getting them safely to St. Mary’s. In reaching our camp of that date, we had passed through over thirty miles of deep snow; and, although the trail which we made at that time undoubtedly would facilitate their return, since then we had had a deep snow, and the return could not be made without some uncertainty and risk—considering, too, that if they do not reach the Territory seasonably their detention would, as they felt, cause them pecuniary loss—I looked upon their attempt to restore public property to a place of safety as an act of extraordinary services, and justifying an extra compensation as an inducement. It was their intention to descend from St. Mary’s by water, but I think that a further consider- ation will have induced them to give up this method of return, and with horses to take the trail pursued by Lieut. Donelson. It is now thirty days since we separated, and as, after leaving St. Mary’s, they will travel rapidly, I expect their arrival here soon after my departure. Unused to packing and snow-shoes, we were fifteen days before breaking through the woods and mountains. Of clothing we took little other than what we wore; I took only two pairs of socks and two pairs of moccasins. Wilson, Bracken, Agnew, and the guide, made my party. Each of us had two blankets and a tin cup. Our provisions were, excepting fora few days at starting, flour and salt. At starting our packs weighed from fifiy to seventy pounds, and, climbing along the steep hill-sides, over the crust, we found it at first very laborious, making at the outset three, then six, and ten or twelve-miles a 628 LETTER OF A. W. TINKHAM. day in the course of the week, the trail being very hilly and tiresome. Striking the more level country of the Nez Perces, we found the labor of travelling very much diminished. Arriving among the Nez Perces, we here emerged from the snow. With the Indians I spent several days, finding in their hospitable lodge an agreeable contrast with the discomforts of a camp in the snow, with our somewhat tame fare. At Mr. William Craig’s I spent Christmas. From him and the Indians I hired horses to come on here; he received us very cordially, and promptly supplied our wants. As already stated, I reached this post December 30th, having been forty-two days on the road from St. Mary’s. Notwithstanding the amount of snow on the mountains, the weather was not severe, and milder than we experienced on the eastern side of the mountains between October 20th and Novem- ber 10th. Here there is no snow, and at no place between here and the mountains (165 miles) was there over eight inches, and that for a short time only. To-morrow I hope to get away from here, and am waiting only for the gathering in of the ani- mals. I shall take ten fresh animals with me (obtained from Mr. Pambrun and the Hudson’s Bay Company,) to be used only after arriving at the mountains. From here to the mountains I shall use the animals of the expedition, and return them to this post. Mr. Pambrun has promptly aided me in fitting out. Of course, being bare of everything— saddles, bridles, mess-kit, and the variety of little conveniences which one gathers around him in regular camp—our fitting out is one of unusual trouble. We have learned, however, to dis- pense with some things once thought necessary. In place of a beef, Pu-pu-mux-mux supplies us with a horse, which I shall take with me, as easier to be driven, and kill when necessary. He will probably go with me for a short distance, but is unable to attend me throughout the trip. I hope to be able to cross the mountains with horses according to your expectations. Should I not succeed, it is my intention to come through on snow-shoes. I greatly regret that I shall be able to make but a very barren survey. Our fine barometer, brought in safety by Wilson, had three times crossed the Rocky mountains, and in the Bitter Root mountains was cached in perfect order. It was impossible to send it back to St. Mary’s. The thermometer Wilson attempted to take along, but lost it within a day or two after starting. My prismatic compass was sent back to St. Mary’s. Ihave with me only a pocket-compass. All geological specimens which had been collected were left in the mountains, none of them having any special importance, and being only interesting as showing the general geological features of the country passed over. Having a somewhat limited wardrobe, although sufficiently warmly clad, we shall arrive at the sound somewhat “rusty.” I cannot do otherwise than gratefully mention the members of my party, particularly. Wilson, Agnew, and Bracken, as being very deserving of your commendation. They have discharged their duties well and cheerfully, and cheerfully respond to my decision to pass this the Cascade range, although prior to our arrival here we anticipated other instruc- tions; and supposing that you would send parties from the main train over this route, I had assured them that it was altogether improbable that we should have any further mountain work, Learning from Mr. Pambrun that no parties went through from here, I decided at once to take the mountain route, and indeed, under existing circumstances, give it the preference. As I said before, your express arrived very seasonably. I have confidence in the realization of your expectations, that the pass will admit of the passage of animals in the winter, and have a wish to see the winter character of the country bordering on the railroad line. Your instructions enjoin upon me to fit out more thoroughly than I had done; and, indeed, I just doubled the amount of rations which I had made ready, besides adding one or two comforts, such as coffee and sugar. Should I leave my animals, which is of course possible, as even on the plains they are some- times lost, I shall not feel that they were brought into the mountains on my own responsibility, LETTER OF A. W. TINKHAM. 629 and should not at any rate have felt justified in purchasing fresh animals. More than this, I am able to act intelligibly as to the character of the passes. This being celebrated here as New Year’s day (in place of the Sabbath,) my letter has been written with fiddling and dancing; and dancing, too, where not only the ‘fantastic toe” played its part, but where the heel drummed out a vigorous accompaniment. This may apologize for its somewhat dispirited character. Arriving at the Sound so much later than the parties which have preceded me, you will not consider it unreasonable for me to request that my early return to the States be facilitated as much as possible, and that it may occur as soon as the accomplishment of my duties will admit. Having quite a large mail (fifty communications,) I was obliged to strip all envelopes and waste-paper in order to save weight. You may accordingly find their order of arrangement somewhat disturbed. Everything, however, has been kept from injury, and your several com- munications are transmitted in perfect condition. My letter I leave open until to-morrow. January 3.—I have nothing of consequence to add. The animals have not yet come in; but [ am constantly expecting them, and expect to swim the river and make campa short distance from here. ‘Two of the tribe of Wallah-Wallahs go with me as far as the Mission, and there I expect to obtain a fresh guide. The day is fine and the weather mild. Very truly, your obedient servant, A. W. TINKHAM. Governor I. I. Srevens, Olympia, Washington Territory. Otympta, WASHINGTON TERRITORY, February 1, 1854. Sir: Ihave the honor to submit herewith a brief report of my recent exploration from Fort Wallah-Wallah, Columbia river, to Puget sound, by way of the Snoqualme Pass of the Cascade mountains, regretting that, for causes explained in a former letter to you, I had means only for conducting so meagre a survey. Your instructions of December 12, despatched by special messenger from this place, reached me at Wallah-Wallah on the 30th of the same month, and the day after my arrival there. The Cascade range, barring up the direct approach to the sound from the open and favorable valleys of the Columbia and its northern tributaries, had, from the earliest consideration of the survey, been to me one of its great features of interest; and, impelled by the desire to know by actual observation its obstacles or facilities, as affecting the construction of a railroad, I had, previous to the arrival of your despatch, made arrangements to pass through this range of mountains in closing up my route to the Pacific. Your despatch put me in possession of such information as enabled me to proceed intelligently, aud at the same time furnished me with such resources as to secure me frou any unnecessary risk and exposure to be apprehended from crossing this import- ant range of mountains in mid-winter. The several members of my little party had cheerfully responded to my wish to attempt the proposed exploration, although they had just escaped from a long and somewhat tiresome deten- tion in the mountain snows of the Bitter Root range, and it was from no reluctance on their part that I saw fit to release them from any further winter work in the mountains, and to go forward alone. On the 7th of January, with two Wallah-Wallah Indians, I proceeded up the Columbia till it receives the waters of the Yakima river, and then taking this latter stream, turned westwardly to trace its waters to their source, in the close vicinity of which also spring the headwaters of the Snoqualme and White rivers, emptying into Puget sound. The valley of the Yakima, adjacent 630 LETTER OF A. W. TINKHAM. to the Columbia, is wide, open, and devoid of timber, except in the bottom-lands of the river, and even there the trees in any considerable quantity are not found until one passes up the river some forty miles from its mouth, about seventeen miles above Wallah-Wallah. Scattered along the banks of the river, in their winter lodges, are small encampments of the Wallah-Wallah and Yakima Indians, subsisting on their summer gatherings of dried salmon, potatoes, dried roots, berries, and occasionally grain; and many of them are wealthy in their herds of horses and cattle. These Indians I ever found hospitable and kind, and in a more full report I shall have occasion to notice more particularly their acts of attention. On the 11th of January I reached the Yakima Catholic mission, under the care of the Rev. Father Poudery, located in the midst of a division of the Yakima tribe, and just above the Atahnam tributary of the river. Farther than this my Wallah-Wallah guides were unwilling to proceed, and leaving them here, I obtained, with some little delay, the services of two Yakima Indians. The Indians, secure in their lodges, were unwilling to exchange their shelter for a cold and laborious passage of the mountains, and | am particularly indebted to Father Poudery for his aid in securing the two who accompanied me, and who throughout have proved faithful and serviceable. Passing over the intermediate portion of the route, on the 17th of January I arrived within three or four miles of the Kle-al-um lake, the source of one of the principal forks of the Yakima river. ‘To this point I had travelled without difficulty with horses, and here was to commence the most laborious part of the exploration. The snow was now about two feet deep, and the weather for several days had been intensely cold—not more cold than is experienced in all our northern Atlantic States at this season; but severe for continuous exposure, day and night, with- out other than the slight protection I found it convenient to bring with me. Packing on snow- shoes had previously taught me to dispense with everything not absolutely essential to one’s sustenance and health; and to make my camp equipage as light as possible I had thrown aside my tent. No grass could be obtained near here, and the few Indians residing in the vicinity of the lake were without animals; but thirty miles lower down on the river the snow was very light—not over three to four inches deep; the grass was good and exposed, and the Indian horses were in good condition. Extending still farther down, and reaching the Wallah-Wallah, the horses in thousands are ranging throughout the borders of the valley, with abundant grass, and rarely with any trouble from the snow. The railroad facilities had continued good from the entrance into the valley of the Yakima, the valley being generally several miles wide, with hills rising gradually on either side of the river, and rarely closing in upon its banks. ‘The valley was now narrow; the firs and pines had inter- mixed and mingled with the cotton-wood of the bottoms of the stream, and were soon to become the exclusive growth. Here, too, commences the wooded region extending to the shores of the Pacific, and where exhaustless stores of firs and cedars will not only furnish the building material for a railroad, but will, from its resources, with suitable means of transportation, supply the wants of the country east of it, lacking in timber and fuel. Sending back my horses in the care of an Indian, to be returned to Wallah-Wallah, the bal- ance of the exploration was conducted on foot, and with snow-shoes when necessary. ‘To aid in packing, and also from the necessity of procuring an additional guide, I here increased my Indians to five in number. From them I obtained dried salmon, which they have in abundance, and a variety of dried roots. Their potatoes are not generally disturbed in the colder portions of winter. ; Yakima river finds its source mainly in three lakes, from four to ten miles long, and lying in a line nearly east and west—Kle-al-um, Ka-ches, and Kitch-e-lus lakes, the two more distant being some twenty-five to thirty miles apart. Each of these lakes furnishes its tributary to the main stream, up the valley of which the railroad encounters little of serious obstacle unul on the bor- ders of Kitch-e-lus lake, the most westerly of the three. On the edge of this lake I encamped LETTER TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR. 631 on the 20th of January. To within twelve miles of this camp I had not found the snow to have an average depth greater than two and a half feet—a dry, cold snow ; but beyond this the snow had greatly increased in depth, varying from four to six feet, and at the night camp some four feet deep. The lakes were frozen and covered with snow, and their smooth, even surfaces afforded easy travelling for snow-shoes. Some five miles distant from this camp, in the summit of the pass, is what in the depth of the snow I took to be a small, open marsh, but have since learned is a small pond, whose waters are turned on either slope of the divide. Although, with the disadvantages under which I was placed, I could not examine the pass with the care I de- sired, and with which I felt confident it had been examined by the other parties to whom you had committed the special exploration of the passage of the Cascade range, I was still satisfied that it afforded fair facilities both in its ascent and descent for a wagon and railroad—either with the use of eighty-feet grades for a limited number of miles and a short tunnel, or with a longer tunnel and easy grades. Wishing to know the real difficulty to be apprehended from the passage of these mountains in the winter season by railroad trains, I gave particular attention to the measurement and exami- nation of the snows on the route. From Kitch-e-lus lake to the summit, some five miles, and where occurs the deepest snow, the average measurement was about six feet, but frequently running as high as seven feet. In a storm occurring on the night of the 20th, about one and a half foot of this depth was deposited—a very light, dry snow; so light as to afford no support to our snow-shoes, and making our progress slow and laborious. The whole of the snow was very light and dry, deposited in successive layers of from one to two feet, and for the greater part of the route had lain undisturbed since their fall—every twig and bush bowing under their bulky burden. These snows present little obstruction to removal in comparison with the compact, drifted snows of the Atlantic States, and would cause very little detention to the passage of trains. Passing on to the western slope of the Cascades, the snow rapidly disappears; fourteen miles from the summit there was but eight inches of snow, and thence it gradually fades away as the approach is made to the shores of the sound. It should be borne in mind that this examination was made in mid-winter, from the 20th to the 25th of January, and in a winter known to be one of unusual cold, and that the accumulated snows of the winter were but about six feet in their greatest depth, and this depth only covers some half dozen miles of the route, and embracing, too, that portion of the route which will be tun- nelled and protected. Descending, the snow rapidly decreases on both slopes of the mountain, on the eastern side about thirty-five miles from the summit, amounting to but from one and a half to two feet in depth, and on the western side fading away until in the short distance of four- teen miles it is only eight inches deep. Without giving the details of the remainder of my journey to the sea-board, which in a more extended report may be noticed, I reached the vicinity of Seattle, under the guidance of Indians, on the night of January 27, tracing a very excellent railroad connexion from the valley of the Snoqualme to that commodious and beautiful harbor. I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, A. W. TINKHAM. His Excellency Gov. Isaac I. Stevens, Chief of the Northern Pacific Railroad Survey. Orrice NortHern Pactric Ratroap ExpLoraTIon AND SuRVEY, Olympia, Washington Territory, February 13, 1854. Sir: I have received your instructions of December 1, 1853, disapproving of my arrangements for a winter examination of the mountain passes, and for a resumption of the work should Con- gress make an appropriation, and directing me to bring my operations to a close in accordance with the original instructions. 632 LETTER TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR. These instructions will be promptly carried out, and the parties in the field, of Lieutenant Grover, Lieutenant Mullan, and Mr. Doty, making winter examinations, will be called in as early as practicable. The best arrangements will be made in the spring for the disposition of the animals and property. But I earnestly submit to the department the importance of the con- tinuation of these surveys, and indulge the hope that Congress will make liberal appropriations, both in a deficiency bill and in the general appropriation bill, in order that the field now so well entered upon may be fully occupied. In addition to the suggestions which I made at Fort Ben- ton, I will respectfully state that the route from the Platte by the South Pass and the Great Salt Lake settlement to the Columbia river; that the question as to whether a route can be found from the system of roads now pushing westward through Missouri and Iowa, through the Black hills, into the region between the Missouri and the Yellowstone, and thence over the low passes examined by me to the valley of Clark’s fork, and also that the practicability of a route into this same general region, and over the same pass, from the grand plateau of the Bois des Sioux, the route proceeding nearly westward, crossing the Missouri and the Black hills, ought, in my judg- ment, to be thoroughly considered in this general exploration of the region between the Missis- sippi and the Pacific. The preliminary report will be sent, if by the greatest exertion it can be got in readiness, by the steamer which will leave San Francisco on the 1st of March, and at the same time the accounts of the expenditures in the survey. I will respectfully call the attention of the department to the peculiar circumstances of my ex- ploration, and which will, it seems to me, explain the exceeding of the appropriation, with every desire and effort on my part so to arrange the scale and conduct it as not to involve a deficiency. The field was almost totally new, rendering it impossible to form an estimate. Much work of reconnaissance had to be done which had previously been done for all the other routes, before a direction could be given to the railroad examinations and estimates proper. Unforeseen expenses, in the way of presents, &c., had to be incurred to conciliate the Indian tribes; for our route was through the only one, so far as I was informed, that at the time was deemed particularly dan- gerous, and the investigation of the question of snow was a vital and fundamental one, essential to making any reliable report at all, and included within the express requirements of the original instructions. 1 deeply regretted the deficiency which I found impending at Fort Benton, and I took at that place that course which I believed Congress and the department would have taken under the circumstances. I am, sir, very respectfully, your most obedient, ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory, in Charge of Exploration. Hon. Jerrerson Davis, Secretary of War. War Department, Washington, April 12, 1854. Sir: Ihave received your letter of the 13th of February. The department does not doubt that in the course you pursued in taking measures for prosecuting the survey, you were actuated by zeal for the success of the object in your charge. Congress having appropriated a specific sum for surveys, the department had no authority to authorize any expenditure beyond it, or the con- tract of any debts to be paid from future appropriations. An estimate has, however, been sent in for an appropriation to pay the arrearage necessarily incurred. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, JEFF’N DAVIS, Secretary of War. Gov. I. I. StEvENs, Olympia, Washington Territory. LETTER TO SECRETARY OF WAR.—LETTER OF LIEUTENANT MULLAN, 633 Orricrt NortuHern Paciric Rattroap ExPLoraTION AND SURVEY, Olympia, Washington Territory, March 6, 1854. Str: I have the honor to inform you that, on the 4th instant, Garry, the chief of the Spokanes, reached this place with an express from the St. Mary’s valley, bringing letters from Lieutenant Mullan, and information that the route from that place was entirely practicable for horses; no snow of greater depth than one and a half foot having been found, and that depth only in crossing by the trail the divide between the Jocko and the Bitter Root river and some of the mountain spurs that overhang Clark’s fork. The express left the camp of Lieutenant Mullan on the 17th of January. Lieutenant Mullan, on the 28th of November, left his camp to make the connexion with Fort Hall, and, crossing the Rocky mountains twice, both going and returning, but in different routes, he reached his cantonment on the 12th of January. A copy of his report I herewith enclose. I will particularly call your attention to his statement that the grass was luxuriant in the mountain valleys; that the greatest depth of snow on the Rocky Mountain divide was fifteen inches; and that Victor, the Flathead chief, was, at the date of his letter, (the 12th of January,) crossing the mountains on his return from the plains beyond. I hope to be able to send off my preliminary report by this steamer. The drawing and report are all but finished. A railroad line is laid down from actual observation, (the line of Lewis and Clark’s Pass and of the Columbia and Cowlitz rivers.) No grade exceeds fifty feet, and only for a few miles is the grade more than forty feet. There is but one tunnel, and that in crossing the Rocky Mountain chain; and the summit-level of the road is about five thousand feet above the sea. Every exertion has been made to prepare it at an earlier date; but the late arrival of Mr. Tinkham, and the great amount of materials to be examined and put together, will explain to the department the delay which has occurred. I expect the arrival of Lieutenant Grover in some two weeks, and I indulge the hope that his examinations will be decisive as to the snow question. Very respectfully, sir, your most obedient, ISAAC I. STEVENS, Governor of Washington Territory, in Charge of Exploration. Hon. Jerrerson Davis, Secretary of War, Washington, D. C. CantTonMENT Stevens. Birrer Roor Vattey, W. T., Junuary 12, 1854. Sir: I have the honor to report, that in conformity to the paragraph of your letter of instruc- tions, dated at the St. Mary’s village, of October 3d, 1853, “to continue the exploration of the country between the Rocky and Bitter Root ranges of mountains, extending to Fort Hall, to con- nect the survey of Colonel Fremont, and northward to the Flathead lake, and even to the upper waters of Clark’s fork of the Columbia,” I left my main camp, on the Bitter Root river, on the 28th November, 1853, with the intention of making the connexion with Fort Hall, taking with me Mr. Adams as artist, the Flathead interpreter, Gabriel, as guide, and three men. I merely submit at present for your consideration the general character of the route followed, accompanied by a rough sketch, intending to send by next express, or by Lieutenant Grover, a detailed report and a map of the country passed over. In going to Fort Hall, I followed up the main stream of the Bitter Root river to its headwaters, by a very easy, practicable, and beautiful route, to the dividing ridge of the Missouri and Columbia waters. Here I found the ascent steep, and the divide very high, the descent being very easy and gradual. Empty wagons can, I think, how- ever, cross this divide in going to the south, but freighted ones not. In going towards the north there is no difficulty whatever, as wagons this season have crossed it. Crossing the dividing 80f 634 LETTER OF LIEUTENANT MULLAN. ridge, I fell upon three of the head branches of the Wisdom river, the principal tributary to the Jefferson fork of the Missouri; hence to thy main stream, crossing the northwestern branch, being the one followed by Messrs. Lewis and Clark in their expedition to the Pacific in 1804 and ’5, and following up the southeastern branch to near its head by a very beautiful, easy road to the dividing ridge of the Snake river waters, crossing by a very good road for pack animals, but not for wagons. Here we fell upon the Medicine Lodge creek, which I followed down for twenty miles ; leaving it to my right, at the distance of twelve miles it forms a lake called “ Medicine Lodge lake ;” crossing the sage plain of Snake River valley for a distance of fifteen miles, we fell upon a small mountain stream called the Camash Prairie creek, which also forms a lake in the great sage plain of Snake River valley ; thence across the sage plain to Snake river, or Lewis’s fork of the Columbia, which I followed down for two days, crossing it by a ford with two anda half feet of water, about twenty-one miles east of Fort Hall, where I arrived on the 15th of De- cember, 1853. From the St. Mary’s village to the waters of the Missouri, we found the grass rich and luxuriant, and wood in adundance. Scarcity of timber and barrenness of soil character- ized the remainder of the route to Fort Hall, except a few localities along the Snake river, where we found an abundance of wood, and very good gra-s. Remaining at Cantonment Loring five days to recruit my animals, I left on the morning of the 19th, intending to return by a new and different route; keeping along the eastern base of the Bitter Root mountains, or main chain: f the Rocky mountains. You will see that from the route followed to Fort Hall, we crossed the divid- ing ridge of the Missouri and Columbia waters twice. This was necessary from the peculiar configuration of the mountain ranges, which are so formed as not to allow of a practicable route by keeping west of the main chain of the Rocky mountains the whole distance. The whole chain of mountains from Bitter Root valley to Fort Hall is formed of smaller ridges or chains, arranged in beds, as it were, with beautiful prairie valleys intervening, through which flow mountain streams, covered with timber, and covered with an abundance of rich grass, thus giving excellent recruiting stations, or rendezvous for the Indians, with their large bands of horses. From the Snake River mountains to Lewis’s fork of the Columbia the country, as far as I travelled, is char- acterized by the exceedingly great abundance of the artemisia or wild sage found growing; scarcity of grass; extreme barrenness of the soil, which is covered in most places with large beds of black, honey-combed, volcanic rock, which latter is the great geological feature that characterizes the country for hundreds of miles along the Snake River valley. From the St. Mary’s village to the waters of the Jefferson fork of the Missouri the geological formation is principally granite and gneiss. On the waters of Jefferson river and its tributaries the geological features are completely changed, the formation becoming limestone and conglomerate principally. In returning from Fort Hall I continued on the same route till arriving at the main stream of the Jefferson river. Here our course lay more to the east. Crossing the Jefferson river we fell upon the main stream of Wisdom river, a few miles above its mouth, passing between the * Rattlesnake Bluffs’? and “ Beaver’s Head,” two prominent and well-known landmarks of the valley of Jefferson river. These names were given them by Messrs. Lewis and Clark. ‘This stream I followed to one of its head branches—to the dividing ridge of the Hell Gate river waters, which we found to be a low divide, of easy ascent and descent. My course lay down the valley of the main branch of the Hell Gate river to its junction with the “ Little Blackfoot _ Fork,” which latter stream was followed down from its head, both by Mr. Tinkham and myself, in our respective reconnaissance from Fort Benton ; and I would here remark that this stream of the “ Little Blackfoot Fork”? has been miscalled both by myself and Mr. 'Tinkham: we took it to be, and have given to it the name of, the Hell Gate river, and I avail myself of this opportunity to correct the error. The stream followed down by the main train from Fort Benton was the “Big Blackfoot Fork,” and not the “ Blackfoot Fork.” My return route from Fort Halllay over a much better though longer road than the one followed in going south, and is by far the better wagon road; in a word, there is no difficulty whatever in the passage of wagon trains by this LETTER OF LIEUTENANT A. J. DONELSON. 635 latter route. I estimated the distance travelled by the route to Fort Hall to be 325 miles, the return route 386 miles, to my main camp—making a difference of sixty-one miles in favor of the more western route, but over a more rough and more uninviting country. We did not experience snow to a greater depth than fifteen inches on a level, and this only in places. On the dividing ridges, however, the cold at times was very intense, the thermometer for many days being as low as 20° and 25° below zero. This was one great difficulty to contend with, which made travelling exceedingly uncomfortable, and hard both for men and animals. Myself and two of my men were frosted by the cold. We arrived at our main camp on the 10th of January, 1854, after an absence of forty-four days. It had been my intention, when leaving the Bitter Root valley, to connect Fort Hall with Fort Benton direct; but finding my animals very much jaded by their long march, and the season so far advanced, with such intense cold, with great re- luctance I was compelled to abandon it. I would have desired to have made a barometical profile of the route travelled ; but fearing that our regular ba: ometrical register, in the Bitter Root valley, would be thus interfered with, I was unable to take it. The temperature, however, was noted on each day till within a few days of the Bitter Root valley; by comparing which with those taken in the Bitter Root valley, I found the cold much more intense on the eastern than on the western ‘side of the mountains. I am under the impression that the route could not be travelled at any season later than I travelled it. But having partially made the connexion as far as the Jefferson fork of the Missouri, when I set out to go as far as Fort Hall, and being deceived in my guide, I was anxious to complete the line, and thus connect our survey with that of Fremont. It is impossible to give in this short sketch the character of each portion of the route travelled, being over 700 miles, but by Lieutenant Grover’s or the next express I will send a detailed report and the accompanying map. Sketches of the principal features of the route were made with great accuracy by Mr. Adams, which will be sent down in the spring, together with those taken in the meanwhile. Truly, your obedient servant, J. MULLAN, Lieutenant United States Army. Governor I. I. Stevens, In Command of the Northern Pacific Railroad Survey, Sc. Wasurneton, D. C., November 27, 1854. Sir: I most respectfully beg leave to protest against the following portion of Governor Stevens’s published correspondence, as being erroneous, and consequently unjust to me: ‘At Fort Union the observations were placed in charge of Lieutenant Donelson, with instruct- ions, if practicable, to get longitudes by lunar distances; but Lieutenant Donelson was not able to report any results except for latitude.” In proof that this is erroneous, I respectfully refer you to the orders and letters which accom- pany Governor Stevens’s first published report ; and I would say, that no verbal understanding or instruction to the above effect ever prevailed. I much regret being compelled to object to a statement of one under whom I have served for so long a time, and under such peculiar circumstances. Feeling it to be due to myself, I most respectfully ask your indulgence for the course I take. I have the honor to be, sir, with great respect, your most obedient servant, A. J. DONELSON, Second Licutenant Engineers. Hon. Jerrrerson Davis, Secretary of War, Washington, D. C. [IGF See note on next page. | NOTE. The Narrative of the Exploration, accompanied by Views illustrating the Features of the Country, the Natural History, Botanical and other Scientific Reports, with Illustrations, will be found in a Subsequent Volume. ALPHABETICAL INDEX TO GOVERNOR STHEVENS'S REPORT. PREPARED BY LIEUT. E. B. HUNT, U.S. A. A. Page, Alpahioah Creeks we ea lee ee eee ite wim mmeto lal ale Smeal slaye mtatial ale atest ate ae ies oro a ete 104, 440-441 GIG =) ee a ane eee EER ee oe cams wae a ee cmiccumunlee seni eubwelss als ma alte aaa ie dunn cere 104 Blackbirds hill oc onc cic aoe eae (ees on d= ==) onl lease ieee Hee ee space doteeeoeseas ees esee se 238-239, 267 Blackfeet Indians, depredations...... ..---- .----- eon noe ences wee ene teers nnn wows nee wenn ewan cnsece cence 259 NICK. ce ee te ee ee aes ie own eno man)s = sinlwe lense imneinlnis (olel=tminol ae atole a oale lees oretmelstln= =istein ie tees eietis atettet ete 303 Mullan’s, Doty’s, and Stanley’s reports ON...---- .---- 9 enn nnn enw nns een ce es cece wns cee nns cnee ewan cennes 437-449 Bisco tmneeNOr OT ks OSCLIPtO Ole. marie nis=malsiom els wees aetna taetelesl octet se tein ieee la see 121, 317, 501-504 topography Of. =... .-0-- ccceeens conan va sase see ersscess saeneeerss onus cues sees cess cucsccncea=ne 171, 262, 271 PRIAPISNAIDS, oo ncd ben dit da Sula pie cacisn wae cidele cated ceil anets Spies teln hs woe © ele ees otee Sie eee ce bee eee ee eee 241 Blodget, Lorin, meteorological instructions 6 ~ eseeo- veneeee: den oes em eleansie sewn sleeu eae ewan Sous oda=aeinan=== 5-7 PON eFal NOTEH OM tke CLM AGE eae ete ple total leer a otal alalates al Solem lotta meen eee 566-57 L Blood Indians, (Blackfeet).-----.-----.---- Soooce sere sosccsosc SOS SOO asodo Os Sones esse 5056 Yupecss 443-444 Bows des Stour, TOL ANG plata aca. mm amet mien ee lao weenie ew Sellar = ia sa eeBe 83, 91, 153, 222, 487 DCS NO TS AEE OS SECIS BESO CE CSCC 6 GSC e HDS COO ICCBD SEI ROTE SCH ORO ONG CRONOOSSTCACEAAnOS mosess 340 LT eT Se Sea gn CORRES E50 OF ESO SES On COCO 6 Be SRS E OE > MSc SS 0s SONS 5 AOS SE ION SCO ERO AINSH ASOSSED 219-221 1 mage SOO ERO Bee ne On eae Breet pea eae SO ISS OMte mea IOROHOOCRS hoeee 92,95 ITT OM oe SSE eS DASE ER AE OAS COL OS ABO IS SOE SIO STI SOSCOU Biseoo apHOBoSecs SSSR OO Sa 239, 242 Burr, F. H., meteorological observations, Cantonment Stevens......---.------ ecpaeruceacte enon se teem Ceres 585-598 U7 gf LON 8) a a SEO ee Oe eet aa COO NII ae ae wusenige oars es 223 LS TOECR ORT. Ce § GB ARP CRE HOOT OE BEE Oe 2a SOE Sete GSO Sd So SAIS 580.) OOS DIO An OO booO asSecea sos 302 LTTE Ad SPER eee COE ER CECE Opn Cee aermininl BoB 8S. SSeS AS ac no oes eee CIRH esos o as oSoenorSocsen 253 Cabinet mountain Caddite’s Pass... 22. -- 222+ wewccc cnc cnn coc wnn veces cece ne tenn n ne manne tenner sneces pepese ssescscase=s Donelson’s instructions... 22.2 0. - sn. conn ce we re cones enw e come n ns cone conn encase es eces nesnen== oo 5e 33-33 party .--- ---- ---- ------ 2-22 eee one eee eee eee eee eee eee ee eee m 50-51 Saxton’s account..---.------------ oneeee wae cece none nan ene ane nncenme sos ennniwern cnwtiessencsscna=<— 262 Camash prairie... . 2 .--20- noon cecrces none none enew wens ennnn= eons - mesoacae acces eee eas Assoc sce cse 517, 533, 553, 562 Camp Cushing, report from.-.. .-------<+ +2222 cen nne neers een nne enone SSAA ISS I SIGS SS Satsesasee sss 20-21 Camp Davis, report from...- .--. ---- eo -0 one noes enna monn wren mene mane oon ewe e mone nnn none co ecee wees ness 18 Camp McClelland, report from....-.----- 55559 2056 SSS e555 sssA crass sss sssS ses sssse tess cassie sagnesons5 19-20 Camp Washington, reports from.....----- ------ ---- 2-20 2222 een ne ee nnn een ee eens eee cee eee ne nee 67-69 Carmnp regulations ...- o-0+ coe cone cnc ces cone enn n cnn wenn cone nnn ne mann cee nn ne mae mone cone nes cons neenee 51-52 Cantonment Loring -- 2, nasan= come bere cs comm conn @nesle == 5~===== moos EQS CSS essa SdSoq SsSche sey ee . 335 Cantonment Stevens, meteorological observations...-..-.-------- BRR Qa a ndD 2S ACOSO sass dsosse ss Sse 5 585-598 Cape Disappointment .... 22. --2+ 200 eee nne ene ene enna ne enee sso coo nss sso seco edeess tS 255 cscs sa apeosd 465 Cascade mountains, exploration Ordered..... -- 222+ oo -ne ce cnes cnc cone seen ces ane cences connee passa 5s55 74 hitherto incorrectly drawn...--- ccc. cecces neces mane sensa cena nseees anes Boos aT Tose SS Soo 111 GORCTIPNON Ol pees ese peclo cau cvs ccecsnesee einer stools ae etal ae eee ese Samoan cease 111-112, 176-177 PAGBOB o 6 os cone wecens soncrns cannes tans ecesce One anne sean anes snes cowuns caemescocerscncene eens oasis lil BEE COLL Qh 1 Boe 6 sooo SoC SC B00 COSC geet oH Shane saa aceenomosce SHoeesolcoros Reece eee ae = 176 McClellan's instructions... 02.2.5 cee eme cee wns som r enn coe een semen sr ecens snanee ensmer omen enenes 5==5 203 McClellan’ s report OMAME VE eo. ce seiels - o 22 sone clean clio ecloe wanna Jol nani on sa snaenesreae ens aea- 231-247 report on route from Fort Benton to Wallah-Wallah..--------------------+----++ -+++ +--+ 2222-222 ---- 269-277 itinerary—Fort Union to Fort Benton .....----- ------ -----+-- +--+ 2-22-22 eee e ee eee eres erent eee 358-359 itinerary—Fort Benton to Wallah-Wallah by Cadotte’s Pass, Jocko river, and Clark’s Won asco. sacs ee 360-363 meteorological observations ..---. .----. «2-002 seen ne eee ene nee een ene eee teens cnn n sees 459-460 protest Of... ------ cecnne cone enn n ne eee ee een cen cence none cee comme penne es ween nae wane mene 635 Cadotte’s Pass, instructions, and party.----.-----------+ ---- 2-2-2 enn e = ee ene eee eee ene eee eee eee 39-39, 50 Doty, Mr. James, reports on Blackfeet Indians...--. ----++ ----0+ -- +202 eens eens eee nee eee ne ee eeee tenons 441-446 NSEVUCHONG eee ces cae n---soclana ee cisenalecmeles=mmale = =m BEmear Saco oSnecoa Bade Sa Sac sco esas orc ss05 65-66 meteorological observations. ..---. .----- e+. 222 eee nnn ene een ene eee eee en een cern eens 461 report, fom Fort Benton, along Rocky mountains, eastern base, to latitude 49° 30’............. —eeeeeee = 543-553 report, from Fort Benton to Cantonment Stevens, and Fort Benton to Olympiacos. === =-e== === ea 553-565 meteorological instructions and observations, Fort Benton and Cantonment Stevens.....-.--..----------- 461, 572-584 Du Barry, Lieutenant Beekm n, detailed and relieved. ..-.---- ----.-+---++----+ ---+ e-- 222 eee e eee sano ==nes an 77 Duncan, Lieutenant J. K., detail Of...-.2 ---- 22-2 eens cen cee nee eee eens cee eee tener cone eee ne sees - 74-76 report on topography of Cascade mountains...-.-.----+----+ ---------+----- Sj oS0cH0 cranes ss 5055 aes 203-219 D' Wamish Indians 2.202 --+e0---0+ - 20-0 SREP Senn USOC IEE non DUDS Coc por cocuScsebaaor enc ncas 432 TIVOL ANG AKO sc coe nicenc nn cece cams eecwwweseeceeriaeeniceescmamienmmincieic/p=o=e)/=am\ewmm==lomninisinmmimimet 2 470-471 CO dpc a tac eadces or cwew cccc ccccenicinse coceseseeeteda= sans nncamere once menajseeaeuen== csunsmmaninana 472 E. Elic Foti. coco cccccs ccuncuce iene aaeete COR MICO SO ODOCOC Lobe Seen SHEGasesarecoo eases ppencoee ats : 545 Plo amin Fiver sac ce dca co deedocs teeddv ice cuulcocacessus cueciasumlonvnsucus aus nema(sh se me(ems mein Leena 467 Enteathrou river. coco cacccsicccics coccce cone seccce coc wwe acces cecnns cnencecncs cocnen cannes Son Gee amet 211 Bb.ivrgte of cost of railroad .... +--+. -2---+ 202-22 ene n ee cee ne cee n ee nent eee enee eR RE Sea tIS sae Sete 144 of expenditures ..------ SAO Oe CLIC ee ee eae ae eet eae Aocoatoesise ose steaeeeeeeee 23-24 Evans, Doctor John, services engaged..--..-------- OCC Oe Hae AOD ODO HOSOI aaa Seeeeecias A 1,4, 77 to survey Mauvaises Terres....2. .-22 --eene noe enon conn ne cone ee ones a aan comwaene S cheeiDEn ose Nisan mae 5 geological memoranda. ..--. 22-222 2-22 eee cone eee cee eee cee meee ene eee cee cee e eens meee tees anes 11-13 reaches Fort Benton—collections........ 0.2.2 eeenes ween nn none ene nee woe seSeneiee See ies pecan swe oo 73 BOrvices Of... ccc ccece-ncce Sots are ees SSS SIA a seme aaa eens PY i253 Sa ares 6 ace et oe 158, 159 TOPOTtS 22-2 2- eee ne cee n eee enn e eens eee e cee n ween cone ene eeene Sone eee eet ieess c= cass eawem . 230, 282 Examinations recommended oo ccewenccssocews scancccuses insane ceemceses=ue facctem epee desses enon Suspeeee 157-158, 452 Excavations and embankments. ...-.----- ---- POSE OE eee nan Sea VeiedsfesemeNeas.o= Suey ce cee sine eeeee 89-95, 122 Yr. Falls of Missourt....<.0 .s0-c-.s00-s- oasdetee tise tase cemeeass hae Sentai Rbedssvabdac bugeeenneeeemeeeee 278, 497 Fallen onountain, csccas caccac daca concsdecnt dedeeu udey lacuedteedeubapeseses=s sresse asaneh sets eaeenrapanen 172 INDEX. 641 Page, Fires in forests..- «+++ o----+ 222022 one ern ee een ee cnt tenes cee rene renee nee nee ene e ene e ene nes cone cees 173 Flathead Indians... .--- ..-- -ceces coc ens cee nns coe n cone wen e cece won bane wane cee e enews 34-35, 104, 150, 292-301, 415-416 Mullan’s account of------ ------ 2-2-5 coer corn owen nie ww ween nnn enn ee nnn wens enna 307-309, 311, 437-440 Tiver and lak@,.----- ccce once ene n ew ca wane cone coon ween ween cee nee eee ween enn ee ween eeeees 97-98, 276-277, 519-521 Fort Benton, climate, &C.----- ------ ---- -2-- 2+ <2 ene rene nee ent eee een nnn eee neers eens sean 41,131 AS & POSb --- =. onan mone oon wenn en wens warns wee wenn n nnn ere n caw ene anne cans cnn ene cn nnne anne 153 reports from...--- ---------- -----+ -- 2222 2-2 enn ne woe ee eee nnn re ee ne ent tee eee eens eens 21-24 mountains around..---. ----2- ------ ene enn nee ee ene wen ee nn wee rene ce nnn ne ene ween wwe enn ee 167, 278 meteorological observations, -...------ ---- -----+ 2222-22 ne oo ne ene een ee ene wenn rent ee nnn nee nee 572-584 Fort Berthold... --- 2 22-- coc cnn wenn ne coc n ne cee nnn connec eens wenn nnn = nnn nnn ter nne wane cee nes cane anne 243, 265 Fort Clark...--- 22-220 2-2-2 - enon ne wn none ce nnn n ee nnn ce enn wane enn enn eee cane ween ne cone wees conn ene - 243, 265 Fort Colville, (see Colville)... --- -00---- --- 20+ een n ne ene cen ene nnn nnn ween eee cee een eens rere cenene 199, 420 POSTE FAM eB Io = DORE BECO LIOOS COCO CHEE CSe0 DCOCD COOL DOR OOS S CCC OSU DEC EE ICO DEES reroron sink Lemon 105 Fort Kearney ...--- «---<- ---< -20- 0-002 nnn = wenn nn on nn = een n wane enna cones ADOSER CnerIMmace noose ata. 235-236 Fort Kontamie, (Kootenay) --.----------- ---+ 22----- =e n nnn nnn teen nen nee nen ee enn center e ne cene 420 | ase. LC aLRARITO bpm ea S94 SOO COINS SO SSE SEO BSS Red CEO GIS SS eR SS SASS S660 BSeC Sone DOC eCO GCC OnDSooS re 234, 237 Fort Nisqually ---- ------ +--+ c2- 2-2 2220 none nnn ce eee ee ene cen tee nee ree eens cece eens cone eee eens 421 Fort Okanagan, (Okinakane) ----.-------- BSS SSC E0 Oa IS RE OSES SEH OS cS SSD Dance Hoc ce reecCOCeCe ee One-o0 197, 420 IRE (ORO Ba ASSES Tiger eo.dieos Bods BOS Soa BOSE DSS COTES SOS De COO IE CEE SOT BOCES HOSE OO BCS CSECECCeD 286, 293 arts Pisrresescd os soon cece ten encewencce sec ce paccsee cocenaeencinacnca sacs cemm~sinniactnscae sange=="s==6 241-242, 267 meteorological observations..---..----- ------+ 22-2 eee e ne enn ne nee ee enn nee eee eee cee eee eee nee 599 Mariivaton, Teachedseasaece cae sees eeneceseeee soe omens eneraan= asses == peers ln= eal asl ama aan nea 78 TACIT CANGG) WG oh ao ob Gss desde Ho eos dads Sede SeIS sd pacino dou So SnEoSS Jas escSco caescacsssencann 78 topography, &c., around...--...----- ------ ------ 22+ = eens ene nen nn nn enn ee teen eee 166 SeriGHils JOURN Glson5—5 a95-co Cn S26 ONO 6 BO OCB EBS BHO EOrISS pecC USD ESnDoD Sod oeislacc esc sicasnesGooc 264 Fort Umpqud..---- ------ ------ 2-2-2 wen nen e woe on nnn ce ene enn ee nnn een ene ene eee een enee 420 More VONCcOUvernccees se] sae cae en aoe een cena een an een eeerticr a= ican a\-- caeessincs-oses sess es-=s GOR REO CBRE ECO e CHORE COU DESSEe DE TSce 123 GERTRUDE RD So 5 3 = Sooo ee ee a sens ea eee Ran Ce ee ead case en See has etece as eei san eae 242 Gri BED ee aaa ws nan wae seeneasaces SSE RO CE EOCHICE ROE RCE Gu RG DOO DOE CCU CUO OR DCnSeS ceIncco cane noon 86 CPR [TES Sos .c, ce OE RU BEES OE ORS. ES EAB ARIE ERED ET BOC AEDES Pear SEcacnnan een. Se 264-265, 443 GroverplneutenanmGurter U.S: A. detail of-essesecccces cosseniasceccee eras ecseeesencee ses - = Doecsse sees a 74,76 quartermaster of the eastern party..----- -----. ---- e222 20 ween cee n ne nnn cerns wee eens scenes 4 Choy cnneaiverereronnnissance! 2.2200 sceae eeeem sane o oe ss oe anes enc scene sos tees con=e cles oe onsen enue 19-20 Blackfoot trail reconnaissance, orders..-<2- .--- -a2- -ne0 een oem anne ese een =2 == A pecisOoncch DOSM BES 34 Rone forwartncurie bantam MiriOne saeco oe aeae eee ieee lane soe cet ease tae cele aera ne cnn me wisineiman 78 fin DESHI HES HT ac)s Din 6: 00 ee eee ee ee ee SOLU GEE CORO E AP Hine SBC ocarmancoc 222-223 RGHOULOM MIBSOULIETIVOMEEEn a> Soca soon Saececre cece cece tase See soe e am ansicencain p= atemnia\scmmate 247-249 report on meteorology—Fort Benton to Wallah-Wallah...--------- ------ -----+ ---2 tere cere renee 396-399 final report from Pike lake to Fort Union ..-.---- ---- =--- «-<-20:-ee 2 neee nnn cen cone en nnn ns nena nee 486-488 sf 642 INDEX. Page. Grover, Lieutenant Cuvier, U. 8S. A— final report on Missouri river. ---.- Sees a Wa aS EN mene we ae Una cae Gakaieabiowe ie mus sc ssh Ree e ae 488-498 final report of snows on route from Fort Benton to Fort Dalles. ....----- ..-..----- ---- +--+ seeeee eee 498-515 Guard order....-...<..---.---- Fee ee ee tee os a eetnpee a sis Ses one este eine eters ane oe = leer 47-48 H. Health of partes. << con wnanew dae soc cde cos ecccns ennnescs=sescnn== sas SOE Re RCO cLMteERonrinc i sesacssce eae 82 Doctor Suckley’s report ON. ...- .---0 renee ence ens cee n ne wenn ns een ne woe conn come ns cen n ne cnwwns wane 177-179 Doctor Cooper's report on..---- .----- 22-222 oo = ewe nn wee nnn mene coe cen ne een nnn ween ee teen wn enne 179-180 Heights Gy Varometer . .. 122 2202 ceccoe once co cn ee conn n= nen ne wnns ce wnnenn seecns mone nnn n oncese mane eacene 456-459, 460, 613 TCR Oy TTR SOHO COGS E UIOICRS SO S50 CERES SOSH ES SHICHO SHEE CSS CoScadbeHero sacs Seoctesness 53, 261 of) es ae ee SaaS sae ek= > Sess a sees 260, 275-276, 279, 315-317, 344-346, 525, 554 BRYON GAUL: VARS a ct we st ee a lei oc ee mw ee lee el ee 99-101 0 SE SEES a ao Ca See 0 SOG EA ASSO DACISSo SESSA CUSSE RSH BHSCIDIESRE Eee Reeeesteneddonsssesicos 102, 626 High Bank creck....-- 5 BeOS SOE CES SEA Sat cia nSe BOS oe BO CE SOS SOU See acts sacnStoh costs cescossee+ 336-337 D8 AT lg 7 Se i RCE HOSES IE OCOD IS IO CSTE 00 SEI SED SSSEED Goo SSO CSE EABOSSEEROSCRS OneoSe Anne Hes 497 Hilgard, J. E., instructions for magnetic observations.<<- 2. << os 5 coo ce cee ce coe wwe wecwes snewnsenses= sane 8 FIOkéspam vAveN ok oce ueieea beeen s Meese ssee ne muenieseccecniv ars elscclsselesm == i> = === Saeco aeoseC SAOSOaNOTAS 218 TEL GARE Te ee Re A CSOD DRE E OS RI DS OC EO DEAS ESE Se SO Soe eer ec ESS Saas Sey eecocececocissos 469 LEPTIN GY ee BPS BELO Dae Hea) HES ODO S0 BES 0 loc SIS UC IO SSS SSIS SESS Sst Geasa sos eco5 339-340 ODDO ERIUELS conten oasisaees ek sana eeeeases cela ce oe eee nee RaSanO Sn saneeo scccs tas 0257 207-208 HOT SE Prarie ca cews cone coecns scnns cece sn cnnnas coenns ones senncs ceen-ssece 5 SSS OSS ECHO SSTSN CosEsn ass 205 328 orsas indians emcondecsAcisac sex enna as\osaeeeloemcline seam cine mnie eel sel ree ae ep ett ma 404 Hot Spring creek,......+--- (CeO a eC SSSe eat gases HSOS25 5555 SSshHo SECU ES EECS EES SSOC Secon -onnss 524 Hudson's Bay Company... ---. --22+- o-nnee ones cnccne ennn cnn one corn ns cone cone nnn eee ane ene oa seneanlen=ees 77 DORE, CiComeeadee see eee e anne ee aee ee eeenanp=mslenv=ne«ne==slen=s|~-cces=0 ses =selaeme Se eee eee 419-421 I. Undsans, BREUCHOS =n coen cose ce coos pec cen cece cans aren cnna Sune decuen nescunwn=tev==asiscue sac=slssu==elenn= 2 8 BONE TNO LOU soso aoe eee on oneal FARR ERS Hanes DOC OnG BEE OBO no EE OO SSO ROO ere oreo 146-150 Policy towards. 2-2. ooo oan ee eee = owes neces pce cess se cces worn eee ans eaewns anes cannes o cee en nnce 147 CONGIMONIGtenaeacen sear eoeae eae ea eem eed ape emlacte moe eemcln mises sa smiee aise mse mein ial ale ete ee 148, 201 NUMbSY Of CACHE CRUMAALOM meee ew om ele ee anim nine Aa eieimnlelatelem es alee eat sinlel elim lel wal = milan ee tetes 150-151 Titles TOMpOtextNPULRUCd ne ee = eae eee acne en Rene seen lem eeb erie te ele cele ieee ete eee 153 GIGI) ae coro en oe epee ab aeeme a pOccu co tOnee See Sane sfeene S555 Soenna coos oa cnbostapsoe dasa 178-180 VERSE Na Tbe osoe pee ce eee Seba pC Nt oom boon boos acme Secenoosites 6455 65-Fse Sos Sebacesiss 255 tiAite, GIbeR, tA) RAs ANd GLORLION ses a\enininn Ses cee slap -iniam oes sehen oes e cee ie ae) een eee a Gen biee mete eee 265-268 INIECIEE GR ENG ICATC Hy iT = Seamer passe pons 2c 9 POSE S00 SSS SIE a SOE Se ooce ASO SS Soseaesa4 293-301 Suckley’s account of their life, ideas, miseries, worship, &¢..----.--.------ +--+ -e2ee- ween ee eee eee 294-296 Flatheads and Pend d’Oreilles, manners of, Mullan’s talk with......---.-----..----.---------s asceouee 5 308-309 his reports on Flatheads and Pend d’Oreilles, and Kootenaies...-..---.-------------------+----------- 437-441 Doty ceporte on thee lacktect ise n= sles ce=s easement = aeeee = eee ee Sete E Sees noo reer cecadsce 441-446 Stanley’s report on Piegan Blackfeet... - 22. 2200 s2nnne wnnn nn mewn ee on nnn nn wee cwe cnn n enn e sewn ee oon snes 447-449 Gibbs's report on, in Washington Territory... 0202. - 200 enceen «cane once cone een w ns een ew en= nse «=n= 402-434 Pribes: MOTeen GOPeN DNTNne seo ce se -ee nee nos een con sees ortere ees ee Seas == ane eee eee eee wae 403-406 TOIL G Pa pers c50 Goc 1 BSED aS GFE Sons Sone SS RSS node wens pancna ta aee anew ~----- 406-407, 411 Amal pOXvee = ntew wei ome eClGhececde subs tesast bees se conswescts! sews ncehieb'an enamine hss =eeeeeeee 2 405, 408 Garth-workesceceseancesessswsicsmcas Seonenpecbas at ceeanccwerenen PSPeeemerese errr sr - cats oes 409 COMerenCOs! With. asses kee sec bescudasce@useae Nace sconine soeslasics osama nian a oseee eee Pees Geers .. 410-411 CUD EN seseme ctols aneteteresetentaloscedcsmceced eameceeetent use Sess ScS a Ap oso eae 412-416 NINN UI OMORC: aac bacterice socauvicader sundae vase cste tances ssemeronaa melas ae pears 558068 417-418, 434-437 POSES) seer len se wo bwc aren s ooo odan ces ers onsaustacemssaness © csssis=s= 5 Seis PERE iwes ds’. <=eee== 424-426 Apprenticeship <2... cease dawns cocn sennne owesmanes sam made sonclspamsiesemmessses coscnn ean Seo55 426-427 OGUAUE: Face sn aseacs sackcnae eG eaertermecscecc Cds ties Gee bared nes Lo a nceRIB Seppe acess ae “ 434-437 Bitter Root ageney .5 ss se cece ca tess wesschvsincps cone wdde ancl speeEe res’ Soeere cosniosen mann Socisto- 440-441 (See Traditions.) INSVUCHONS one se fons oman dnlddow ad oie pete Gap pal aes ao sae hele mee Pies wheeler SAT Po eee anewee 2-13 Instruments, meteorological. 2... Vcc sewn ns sepces mana aWaniienee Peabianacee ye ce orrs tebe g@ nevis ae See 6-7 INDEX. 643 Page, Tnmeraries— hinkham's;, Ste bau tonbor UM OM caonesa concn <\paiciomasceccccccuwomecssureneuesaccmeccacesteeene 352-358 ONeISOn Ry Ori UNION LOR OLED ONLON =. aatenea sass aa = alenm eelcee san cenaiseeciee nee sineeacceemel me neas 358-359 Donelson's, Fort Benton to Wallah-Wallah, by Cadotte’s Pass, Jocko river, and Clark’s fork-...----.----. 360-363 Donelson’s, Hell! Gate) to) Coaur d’Alene mistion, &¢. <<... --- noc ncoccns cnn n enc ccs ccc cus once ctenccccuc- 365-369 Tinkham’s, Fort Benton to Fort Owen, by Blackfoot trail and back by Jocko river, Flathead lake, and (MamiastPansece= Roce necceochcoee Beacet Seco sete chosen cere tecdepceoe ce cone coco eusHece 223, 487-488 OUTRO ING GeSecoccoces Besos FecSso Soe e Orpen SS eR Sees seelefe aieln=ista'mia(ae DSHS ESS Sodcoe cred SSSHOSBE 161 DOCSIS Ohi eaccboacos ROSS te C8500 Coed S56 COSSSS ES HbSS SE SSH RSEESS Dec eoCesEeO reccoceed tbe 97, 320-323, 328-329 IGP ilSReR COC CEE SCOR C Ce SCee ee Gthc Hep CCORESE SoC CHE Bo Gee coe CEee LD EE One DE CEO LDeCOOmErborieccc 101, 121, 274, 276, 517 GGEGTE MOM (PF sooss conc HOSeSHb5 ASSO Come ed CSOCeD ase OS GaSCOSiog se Soon HSEDO See coSdenseLecemcobtederce 171-172 ACP IOUS (LE TEL RECE CD CODER OTE E BELO SARRSEESC Conic ae COEHHC EERE OS CHOU EAB eenneSeneaccenns Scones 304-306, 493 K. POY CICS TRE ei SO OSC HOO DOD EEID CODCOD DOO CEN CUOTS OC IDOOO COGEHIO GOUESS Gcgnc0. Codd BSeU BCSECE eco eASecSc ceed 210 IRR TIT TOR 6 CRS O CS ROOS BSED SECO DPE EO SEDO CES EIDS SECO RSEHOo BOSS PEeCOD ESOcOD coeEeD Oonecemesoe 149, 293-301, 415 lakecasae--e-s eas Coecmos cocoda Comman Cacincd SoocoO cco cribSseocsdeoodmnrdetenosstonceeeorscceton 292 Keanias praimio lake. a0) CLOG Kes seem lm ae eee em a= otaleeleal ee lela sil ainile allele DCSE Ee BEE OLD Serco cercecos 261-262, 333 IETIRES) TOBE RAS 00: 9020100 20 DDO ROCIO ADOO SSD GOO B C0 OCS 0 COS ORO COSCO RSOOSD cc Sooo CSU Cer Greig HSSos Srasoce 231-233 TOGO ae oe eC Orci COSC EO COC CCU COC RED COOLS BOD ECR CODES OCEE SUCRE HS Soop EeDpnSES CoCbocaLeeccaccinges 192-193, 210 MOR I CEH 1 A Sco poop co pees OSU 8 BEL Be CO SS EU DESC CODE GE BOOS SO RCEO PES = Cc SbcebeSmco Pocecromcct 24-26 UGUAG HO Bo ona coo ces co SOO S22 ED ENS CODES Cond cone PE See DSO Ee DOENES RoC COOCCSD OS ESEE canesDecosase 299 LNG TR Spe sd BeOS APOE IE ORD OCS CULO DAOC OOS SE LOD GneT CUO DE DEE BEOOIT BESa COCOONS SOO OnESe osc 413 TGUWATS UA men cmeeconee Sancce See e eo DEORE ACS Sedo c8teos Cade Se nO CHES BOT O EOE ROSCOE ER SDOSE COREE 193-194, 630-631 LUTE G ay Fae) GPa pen aees GanSas -Seaeo cegmee Coe base Casas dech 655550 cent esse bebo pape BESS Epo EeeaSceos 207, 476-477 TIN GIR Biss Secs Se sear Bacimaas CHO Sed dean GOOCOD Bae RCS OSS EO ASS Se5 Sarg SSeS Ea CaS aeeCe COQSESO CRED eEEES 403-407 HOGG poooss Sond Gectee onoted ee Seco cesses eesee sacha S46 252 eR Et ai ance any tice ceed 404 UG(GEp ith meen cane Lac ee Ode LOS oe ces Shoo bres osaces GECeeSorne DSSeoo SEE SES HEESSS SE Se Seco comp toobe cesses 230 TET Ore 2S DEEDS OEE OO > COSC OS BOO E EC CObA GE de Reso Sot ocebc Co OOde SO asCBEBsppeecod pecs eSsenadsscepsccare.c 204 LCR El Ga Gel ata GO sec Ce DOOD DOO IE DAO BHOSEOE CHD OSD BS a6 BOSS CODES DEOr Ee Bese eH OSeeed BebCbSoe Eapaneoe 96, 250, 289, 530-531 TOG SOE GAT GBB ep Sebe ame Se WEE OEEO Or Conn Bee DE CRSA Seco oe DSBECOCESE GOSS LC EH Ere ES DaSr ee Se er estcosno 416, 522 POUO TD TOBE? ecm ceSeot SaaO GOs athe Sone Oot Onecg coca Soco Hono dscons eseg deen cccinlsesoScesoced Gosedososnce 522-524 Kwiwichess river..--- sense NOSS55 COSESEA RELI Gon CE COEO CASES OSEb CLEESS conn cononoSene SenSSdeccoer croses odésn 209 L. TT Gomes one SOT ROO DSOCOS Seen ieee a acneacesslseeeones so scesciees cecceccustlsscrcascewaceces sane sce 205 J GHB (OMT mr 00 BOSSES CODD OOO EOE OTE CEE EO ECHO EIDEIDED GSOD BEOSC HE DODCOC OOS R COS COCO SEE EtG BOSC CO O=n0 196 Lake Davtsweernt ee cie cele an stesreet eens eccnl sacs a's soc naes oa'scoseslescalaces secs tclccecwceonilecucenviacen 327 Lake Kahchesstecar «conc aan ace cee cae ces ba a cad vaca Scenicsdees'Jac ccd conn sine Seleaencenie aveceeoniesecltoes 210, 479 Lake Kleallum......---- ee eae ee lee meceet ceuslccee cannes caesecs cceece sens weceeelvsunienvanesacecstteaisacs 211,479 Lake; Pilwaltts wets caee cles ceicnons toads aa asce estes sosc'csenicacs secs cee Seco tbonecrb coma ceao GaDbsasencsne 210 Lake Rootham..----.----- eee el tee oe sacs See seein ee Wat lsee oot Sabie eel coue wes sicdaecccatessceccons 169, 293 oe LTAUET SG << 2 annie eee eee cen ccenicee een sae en clsces ines secs e odes sone cnecloenulsccccr cava aae/[acmele) wae = 487 Lambert, Mr. John, topographer..---. ---- ---- 2----- 20--0- one ces enn ene en neee ROGhHS HEeses cooneoNe cotooesc 76 TOO CI MOPS DAO UO eee pace DGC 06 SESE OO NOOSES C660 ECES BSUS Genees Ceo cepaceores Sfoosod 160-177 (hpi WES. TRL GOAN a HEE e sc eacese Cee CeO ean COOSISe LOSED 006 NODE CO Bano Ooe cin osuS cucHmtuosoodene 76,77 SITS SeyDU, TERME SENOS) conceo cane CEE mC ESO COO RECS DODHONS 269 COSH DDO BES EONS SEOs GDS ene eTeoneeS 14-16 MINGRNOMBTA Once =| as' =o eee ee eeieneeine= alsa ne ae Saw SecicetelSs cotncetwencelconciessc seca tecceetslnccae's 16-17 HEPATOL .. ccc 8 COREOEBERS DRE ECOO ROSS ROSS CHEO COOSCO CONC CORREO ESOS COSC EEES HOOSHo COODEE PEE enoeecd 86-87 report on Columbia River Pass 186-187 report on crossing of the Mississippi river-.....---- ----------- ------ 2202 ee nee eee eee ene eee ene ee 224-226 report, Fort Benton to Wallah-Wallah...--.- sso rete: BC ROG Ee DOEICE BSE COEIDODOROCODCOnoncS 275-276 Lappaluwat valley..-.-..... sf ae fe ne A Oe eS EA os Slab Some ccee o-eateesee 534-535 Eatiiudes ODSCrVvatlonse sees oes acca Joc adn caddldece cece ccuedcicccdacsceseciwctes oc aetiaiscce cuss 450 TLS Te ee ae oe oe we close aioe vale oe dinoms sew cjcaelelswninc lomee,.'s=e 453-456 Stevens’s report on....-..-- ee Fe Soe ne earn oelnne oe dence maieecelsame mance eesers- sets 540-541 EGUGs cachet eee ccs thee ee “eee Way tae 2 2 Pee Oe ae dain talacinea cia cenlpican twine siaate's 474 476 644 INDEX. Page Lengths Of Outed... cou+ sonecenacwes avers onus sneuenesceed nnn asa/ee= O nawn cee wen cncens cneee ener ne cece ene 126- 127 Bewis and Clayk's Pass: ccseses cones oan enon ee aes cease ease eeetencee oe pee rere ees co cate eee eee 79, 100, 275 1B ETT Te I 9 6 OO IOS 2) 30. SOTA at SOOO Bena e nn ee cine seopesag So SEO S== 50> 487 WARE SoG ascice acess genes ceceee Se eeae eter te tone one eae aoe Sees a. noc eee eee eet ena: fee sae eee 94, 239 VAMC ean wn eam nee one nes hae eae nee eee ota doen ae as onal C us Onna eae aan eee eee ee es eae ae oe 95, 123 REN ONUNE Soe meaeee erento eae been coe cence sonwesslsccene! asin e selboneea eee eneeeee eaasones 235 Lists, of papers accompanying report...---..---- ---- ------ ---- enee-- on -- woes eee eee Resersewereneerewe=ses = 155-157 ETO Bsnig 02st) SN SSeS ESE EOI OED 86 S00 SEO CREO SEDI Ip SEO SSIS OSS Soo aoDt tote eene See _ 76-77 OUST) 5 a i 5 SS SOS SD EE SS 95 oe aSRneS 99556 SSS 50S 0e0RSS Seo con cogsone conse sos soso 453-456 Lan ay SS pees SoS 5 scses oes 55 SSS SS ISS aos oa sigs os saSscsesossd ofc L oe 456 DM GAMOMe LC NOIPHLS ooo. seamen pene omen en neha een iees sata clene aaa eee ee ee nea eee eee 456-460 RURMELIOLnO0t TIVELY S00 (PRBS seecocee ees sae e we eree eae een eee ee an eee en Pere eee eee Ree ee eee 99, 106, 279, 555 314, 352 282-283 Little falls, crossing at, on Mississippi river 15-16, 83, 89, 225 Tnlile Rocky MOuntenn Fiver naam anemone a ane ae sinae ease == lena necee n= as) a ae eae eee ae sees een eee eaeeee 493 LO RRC OE YE 8 SO See BOCES I OT COSC TOSS SSO OID CRISS 5 ON CORSO SIROD SHES See REE IOS 529-530 UI EO UTE OE a FO esas =e ees sana cons SeORICOUSnO cenSRoTcas Condes Bor oeenQadiaoce SSooco mens reSseossos 450 list Ofsoeo-aeasn te sees eeeceececessase=eeeseseeeeess= He OODC HY) GSO SOO TOSI GIS en ssmces ec sco sl55 456 MLSVENS A TOPOL S Sac tao eee cece see cies Sateen e oe ete seat tein ale ace wines ela woes caviten teecces eee 540-541 Wonelsonteprovektaae. eee faxe las eiseee aes elas el sae a etal eels ete se ete ee ee eee 635 LEDS GAS See mmr OOO 55a GOD OCP DOD RSD BRO a0 PRE RR IDA OO50 GOO SeeOG COA ScOm Ice vawenslaonceerees aeeetaeuc 90 TSUMMUTILEN, scot cen| oan aa estnteo alo ale sales tena ale eine aisle ete seine ann aes ae 3 o0t0c 2Eoso Seco erepceospecca 471 WNGians Oey DEE EROS OCS EE SD OOOO Cone em aOO> BESET RHOO mS En Sor SCO nr ro RR oem cam aoe oe pee ncc 53, 97, 550 Dinkham(s TEpOrt OM. s= = meee ete ama ale le ea la ee lee 276-281 MT Ber IS SOR HOSOI SOO IEE DOES 50 SEED DO TODOOD CODE Ot DOO ECR EOC DOC RESO UD SCOR CEEO CIOS » 97,547-548 GM ER HET CD Roegs oe 56985 BES ROS SODS SOTO FICO SSS 2S0 5555 6855 Bons ooo esoo oa saboscn ooeacessasese 93 HIRES ny Oph oe SSCS CoO pee OS SR ODIC RIS COTS SOS CAS COE SROCD BO COEO DOS CORO ECO SEO OS IO Sao) 229-230, 625-629 AEN ONTO PO Pa aD VO etme ete ee le ee ll Aenoocoand o5c5 165 (Ey teem doe ona OSD EC CHOC RCO OSES BA DSSS a GO SOO GOSS O9 OF I SOOM OOOO IS SA OOO ISOS S65oc0 489 IM GUOGLEES LGTTeS oo sete cence. acces pair cas aoa eene ees eee leno chen concen a aee ae caten acess 5, 163-164, 249, 263, 304, 490 THER BSc cn0 G5 S26 Qn O DOC ER DOSE BO EHS ASOOR0 CEOS ED OCDE CORO DOGO DOCS DODO II OOS OOS UES eoaeee 92 McClellan, Captain Geo. B., U. 8. A., detailed..-.-...--- veeweeescsccesseceat Nasicnn anecladoscweee ne omeniene : 74, 76 change of party ..---- --.----- #3 Sos Sd esos SS SSSho nag OSES ASSO ARSON BoOCasemIS Serer cecotintecs 3-4 its composition..---.--.. SE OSI ACSI OASIS OIF POO IGS OSTOLO B59 SnSsoeseo 255 neeee 80, 188 CHEAT eee sn ascisas Baga ssemcceo acceesooensasass Seno e meneame aeneeneaeeee toners senna 80 Oni Sno guelimG Paks ences en cee seco slene eee lem we ee welectee me beter enews amie om eel etete =e eee a 7 report of Cascade Mountains survey. ---02 osecec voce eee cne becuse coecesceewes cone peee a =tn oro seas eS Se oe SOS CESS Ss BS Sed Shon cases See sade Sota asco Secor ees 41 METRO AON seegece nocece SoS Soe Genes Aen Sn ces Ste a6 Geno coe sees cere Shen eos cosesb oocecn -obSesce 5-7 J CITI OE Sa ee EROS ELE COS CEE CC CERIN BODE IO EER EAE r COO COD REE EICD Cer Een EEE ASE erO PEEP Ere enas cose esas 197, 213 GEM UMy OU: ss so8 acoso 252 soo ode ceo os ssse osscre Pasondcessensoces caer ost oee 3o ss aeee sec ce ae se senate 483 Military organization..---...---- ..-.------------ oem ewe semen emcees ann m ne enw cns mane ecw ens sacneeceebee sees 46 (HSS) RECON TUG 25 930555 sano g605 25 tse 355058 soos sScgsb tees Sener cco eso nose socoesse cee doen 153 HLL alii Paos 220 cso 02 SESS OO as 23 esa gsS0e0 Seb BS aE SHES JESSE SO SESE NSE ESE HOODS HesosoEcoe reseed eos 84, 92, 447 RHI Ay On Gees ose ee secs cone Beeisse 6 oSeSco0 Sass Sere Sees seg 6 bSe= Sig tee Secs a5 S586 Ba 505 41-44 valley of..---. SOSH OSPR C CP 52S ce COne CL OO ESS CO COMO NEE Caen BOsSne POs’ Ce DOs PreG reo AS Secce Oe Goce 84 route up.----- enamine nine ne mm l= nme mma mime = mn onal ela in jemi ane a\a) smo etm eah ela efels at els ime wl 92-93 TBR ehh ie Foo seen ee Soe Se ee oad SCS ess 5S bene See ee Seer oe Sosteisceo sess 5 toseo5 164-165 TIT STITH DEW Gh Ore eases s06s coo CHOn PATIOS OOS OS C60 BEES ROSE DOCOEE Ono See SEEOO Baan ESEOOSeSSS Sane 226-228 WR lakeit chet rivers ANd: POLY nam am -(caiain min! wie clas ore aims aalsoie daca a.asoosa(ce Sarco oee cae CUCU e's tela Malcionesers 197-198 Minter Mrs te lO eTALya ota Captain McClellan's LOUt@ is. <-(02=< coe oe epo enn ea of teen anel ee Seeisdoe asa eee 377-389 Wigston ste Ga Neral epee fe ean epee elms sada s dou al Caco waes sce «be ursuckoian Utes oeoececoameus cee aeee 421-422 fy JU a 53S oc Gees Ho So G0 3S SdC CS aro ORE En Oe eee SRSA SIS OHEIO CEES CADRE CES eon Keeoee eeaSsic 190 St GG YT RON Gre 25 s=55 ceseesgchs aceene s2os recor esne PEBOE CEE BSS Sane een ee Se eet cinlon eee 294-298 Ot SISTA Misse eter 6 cas SoS Res SOM ESS CE SHS5 GEOR CCOE EEO coon COO RC EEE SE IEE SEO ORE CEO EER eee errs 294-297 (i fStin WA Sisncs caso cee oSes Conn BSE cInEbaKOOoeMnEnS 6hooernSDaSS KoSCoe Sed COs SoUBeCeHEs EBEEGE EEC 415 DUO SEG FTG TOE Paseo SSE CDSE PASO CHEERS SESS DIOSESDOCESE DA SH SC OSU OSI EES coccas Conse CoSSoR CEL Bene Orns 81 Hander'sireport, on Sauls CAplds CLOSSIO~ ese mem elon = see le mele aaa mee oe alee eee oecer 14-16 ROE CUD TR neces Goated SHoSo SESSE DEE MeN DORNEE DOSHOCCOSO05 cee CUSESS GEOEEN ESE Sreraooo ace asc Sm = 89 GIGRSIITS an eeddESccouesen Base SORE noc CREO enor Pecan earerr es Mee eye eae meee opines on eee 83-84, 224-226 GiGi GE Wi eosonss cescoc csieoee seco ce bono coneEoRONSoE cotons Cees acoso nocoss Scodoasaes se6e sone 400-402 IPS SGOUIE TET Foe 250 COI RGOCHO ScOcaS RECS OSE CON SECS ACEH BCODLE BOlS Deb CF BOBO DEE CCr eOCOEEOSOCE SEES tet see = 82, 84, 92 CIRCE? BIG UIA IN OM Os beso cece cecioe 6 CSSO00 SAb055 DOCSS5 COS DSS SSNS CSSRSt FOAEED CICESE REARS EEeSe 85-86 LOTION Oh HOU ET Ny Cinsscos oecd eoecoooresccapnodsoe Conca concos crea cossce sass csce scence Son Ass 163 BENG RG) QUID BLOT Eco asco esos o¢ ao SoEbSS red oasenod aaecoon coSecHdn Seem CsECONSesse omeasceesacsec 83-85 HONEIRONR LO POL Ol sawemates soe ancece ese aane cece ea ccc ces ne cone cacce ss sscces couse sceccrccaisans 231-247 GUT GS OL [REL ORG! MORON poe cco ect se BSEO 0 O00 S500 8500 SD EIE SOS OSS NSCS COUSERIC RES HSHGSn Bere Gesese 232-234 TRIE inc decs come atSc Re Ob0 OF OC08 ADO TOUCECCASCH ASSO ERS BOC S EEO eB DOSS ELBE EEE PERSE SOO CEEEOnSS 232 QHAERCECUINIIC Kamen antennae edamame eee aa naa sae ee ee ene pelos ees ce noes Lee coe uaa mean 232-233 REMAP IS 55 3 Coen c aC OOICE Ci NODES OB OC DOU CIN ORD EE COCHEOH OE COE COSC ESSE SE SES aS esos ECE soot 232, 244 SMO Kinga hewmen mentee else east m cease ealacececiscs ce cise ase. osene ccose ssecess access ee ee 239 Wid Cts senteeeedeemtinenmtnnem steatosis SH OSCCOSOSSS NOSES SaSC5e SBE HHOOST SUSCCHBCOREtEESCHeSSE 232, 230, 241 Grand! Coteatnoceantenmmmettaemanlecr save oe cisennesis feecs aca aon sccces tosses no sesacecessi-soccaaceaes 161 Grover’s; report, fromm GreaupWallg vo Muscle Shellscmecee oo enc sec seca rsie cea ccee ce cseec ester eee 247-249 MBYVINALION Oljtoceeaeeeeitee aman et eet e ee eae sete once: con slecicicsee ce Snore case cneeeneeee 233, 245, 248, 250 Saxton’s report, Fort Benton to Fort Leavenworth, navigability... .....-..----- ---- -----+ ------ eee eee 249-250) AMOMIMU Ls « «.n0'= anna ennai atentsee ae cence Nea oecinatn clese sisencee scabieess hoc cecjccscemeccemeaees 263-269 MeeING HIE ° ca.o.a:0 oe = ate eee eC ee ema ene Sete ele Scie does atin ce cing Uae Sees tence eons 313, 333-339 CHIN MMOMMUD POL 05 a= a= siete see sete meee teaca sa coe sceealancacieemer ameee nce ca eacacs oe seamed coce os 400-402 final report of Lieut. Grover, Great Falls to Milk river.......-....----.---------- eee cane tees : 488-498 Navigablityegieesss= 2... ------.--25 ereeee coisas waicnan See ecacs veapae cleat meearectean esacesecneeeees 496-497 Great HANseeeeete nen ooo oss soso es eee one ceccosaceerclesecas sfeccemeases soccer chess. ceencecees = 543 Doty’s report 543 MoKO-Wiric er taste. oo hawks bebe teaccceee 549 DMC USBMIBLETUN CONES aaa no. ann a eee eee seen eees cine tate aciae ciacieec crea cen cues oeeescas 487 Gund see enna nal eee tS oe ea ome wa mac ele nos aeieas ous cabo oeieaene nacssweeeaes * 409 CHENG EIRa lineata nonten eee eee ca = =o. ase Seana sts stieoaese oer ansa ceonccteemecesteccannwe 343 GURU ATE TEND CG nate near ee EL! ea ke Se ee Ee cee ee RRL et sie Chil codesdasuaa cosh asda 81 Mount Adams....... Suoecacananod Seasons ame es= 2 BOOS ODEO CROCE E DOOD OOOO EE INCU OCG Do CLOCCOOrMeoocnld 252 646 INDEX. Page. Mount Baker ..cc-+ 22. soe sau sines=/eunscvenlser™ Muse ones pusein=@Nelsse==slcemnee (ces ==> 5 =p nenlaum ape sce sinmwa 469 DV DUNESELODN on osinw ¥ Casino no sles eSeptnee ein ee eee eee RieRe hie ee eee eos sine ceo hese eee ee 475-476 Miauet Raker |<. ccden ccweleneews Shap mppeE Re enneeteds sanecs bunts 0s adee se esbeukad «wee fiw acueeee ences 192, 207, 475 MM punE Ok. TIONS ccs amie eee ae ee ees pee as leek eek ene aa maa = eee see ee ees Sor 5 eee ae, 207, 475-476 MOUNCISIUATE po seen inane sees eee ence Seta ralesa es = nae ee ola o]o emai wein= sine a = a ee ee Sl eee 197 Mousiriner ADU VAUBV oes eee Seer eee eee e an ieee ae oe eee es eee see eae eee ee 78, 83-84, 161-162, 233 CosOriphion (Ofeee ne eeeeeeee eae = boise oem ae ce ese m es eusincee salsa eles s Cub ener ae ae enema ener a oe 90-91 Mowry, Lieutenant S.,U. 8. A., detail of.-----.-.--. ---..----. .-----.----- Soewe wir scc pie eee pee eee mee fit 76 meteorological observations, Columbia Barracks to Fort Colville....---....---. .----- s-e0-- e-0-------- 602-612 report on meteorology of Cascade mountains... --- -- 2. - 220. ene e enn e cee e ne woes ween ee ace eee enes eee 389-395 report on barometric profile .----. -.--..----. -------- atesades 252 es estosaoe Si Spsoo Seo sto 395-396 MMaddyiriwers, Big and Little, topopraphy---- =~ o.oo ooo inn nec nwien nn cae claneeeniene==siawer mers aoncenoeue 164 LIT) SS eRe es = eae een 5 9 en oe ee no sess ao 13-14 Wallan: Taeulen@nh Jey 9s, iWeisy a5) UObal Ys Ol_aeaiam sls enemas neler eee neem oe ie = elem eee 74,76 MR PUM NN PURER ces cee Soc Sere soe eres Sass sg ssn st os Sass ess chee Hs sae sak ees--- 34-35, 61-62 Gyre Nt) Nt iR—R= —— RRR E Ra GOS CH Con S Ron Seton cosboecinconeaosc oe 54,79 eoninty eee qlee tate ie Mins Cl ee Sa ass 55 88 a S55 sd ronSssesssaasone Seo cocens se soe 103-106 report, Fort Benton to Flathead camp, Little Blackfoot river to St. Mary’s.-.-.-.----.--..---- vene ----09-61, 301-319 report, Cantonment Stevens to Fort Hall, and back, up the St. Mary’s and Jefferson fork..---..---- Saa-- 319-322 report, Cantonment Stevens to Fort Benton, and back.-----.----..-..---.--------.---------- ais pe eente 349-352 report, Bitter Root valley to Fort Hall, Hell Gate valley, and Bitter Root valley....---..----.---------- 322-349 Indian reports --- = 22, --20 canna anna memese cos soem nnn ene mecsannnss once en en== ==se50\ce=uns ===> ==== 437-441 report, St. Mary's to Fort Hall._.....-.-......-.......----- RP eSS Sretisa concos saSsS0basto steS weee 621 MMAOLEOTOIO NICHI O DSO N venti ONS eels sr es ll ele ee 461-463 report, Bitter Root valley to Flathead valley, and Kootenay river --....----.-----.------------ ---- 516-527, 633-635 report, Cantonment Stevens to Fort Dalles, through Rocky Mountains and Cour d’Alene passes...--. ---- 527-537 meteorology, St. Mary’s valleyin2. 2. < SSE OEE eee 66-67 Osage river.....-.-----+-00 mivcosiWese catevussGuceccsces ounces secese be dece unecee amen e =: »=-~ = -) SEAN) 8 3538253 325223 Lah AS jes codss esses 121 Lambert on character of eastern slope.-..---.-- -------0eeccee noes sence eceecenses eee Weeecsen ces cca 167 PLU Opera ete Rta ea eee en Seeman SSO RE PS a wanodedcscacceebewceccetace 167-168 648 : INDEX. Page. Rocky mountains— TAVENE; GEO kn am ewan cawnihusn wnley wee eee Sete eh a= ee ea eiicnes Coke aes wan ane ses waht Sena eee te 168 view from SUMMIl. << 2s... ons wcncables Sern esenen Shean Seen comscaccsncs pea euchuccece socosccpacel maa 170 Mollan'aiaccount OLTidre= 2. aenpeeee eee me sneha as ae aa ena eee ae ea a en a em ee 312-313, 529-533 BROW ON Saco cece ash eae alee er enn 6 eee a SPE pen son oo ere) io eo 400 Mullan’s report ON f Pass sana eqe cee mane cncces concen cnneenwe nnn cenens wernns suupienasiaase sacs = >acuun 538-540 ROCKS eee =e =o See eee ea cos a Su poeod Joc S don miner Oo OSoO Pome sc aess cose St oes SS 239 Sergeant's hill ..---- 2220 coeene 2 enn ns cnn n ne on nee cee ne ce wenn conn ne wenn enn cnn nnn ee cnn ens nme eee neence 239, 267 Settlements, to be encouraged 153 Shayenne river, character of valley...---..-----------+ Seow eietew an acle anal pie okie aa Sine emi aee See ae eee 86, 90 topography...---- ------ ----0- -----0- ee nee ene nee wae nee wane ceases nee mne ccneesecee soeces Sate ore 161 Shoalwater bay, Gibbs's Leport.-.- wo - 26 c- naw concen nes nweinens cecne ce cmes pans eaemnnlenansas= we eee reel ainian 465-467 Shonkes creshk= == eniaeen ee 192 Shulkantin stvefscss--cncccss coche paew Eee ssa ao eee een ace swe eee ta oes PEE eee a as noone eee eee 211-212 Skookum-Chuck river... . - teadondeed MdeW isos. neue ees ose scceh ene cueer Bee io oain own eu sneer RyEMSRieEe ‘f 468-469 Slawitehus Ter sae Sas c ss poss Soe See see see awed ew a ewe eee awit REPER iene’ INBURUCTIONE LOT oe eo ee cnt oo eee ees ee eee SS ET A, SD TI DS BLE 73-74, 449 GERD TEER, TE TDS Sacco coca cone Beeci cone HU dcod CHSC HEO Hace S ccOoiboo ban buat babcanbsedda cede seca 13-14 synoptic report of route, &c., dated Olympia...--.-....-------------- mOGAO sO GOSS onOScOSnSN bescoon 52-59 instructions) to*McClellansssso.:c esos ote selec a thae te scteeee cad Seis ewer ewe wa salee eee as 203 matructions to).Linkham: (Cascade mountains -\oc=/c--2/ aoe sas cose Sees eb ae ses ose ees ee 617-619 TOPOLt OLAmnold? wTO Ute pros o- 1a swale we aloe etoronicu ee iScaes onic eu ewoe ee eS aSe Ss Ae Bs 619-620 report of McClellan’s, Tinkham’s, and Mullan’s operations...--.---..----------------- docee nasa ccoose.s 620-622 lettersito:Seorotary/Of Warez2siccsses ene woos s abe ee een tecclena cen kc'os este ee eeeeeeeee LYN 450-453, 631-633 letters) withsMullan’s:reporte 22 .-.ce~ socks coe oe eoce ce sees ees eee cebe wee ses sect eee ate rene fees 515, 537 letter with Doty!s reporters escc ©5059 pean Ramee 166, 270, 544 Walley! -==\onn= en amseman = acess eas seems e =e 331-332 Timber, on Columbia river. ..---. ---- ------ 2-2-2 = eee ene pone wenn enn eens wn nen ce een nena ee eens 108-109, 113, 474 on Cascade mountains.----.------------ osbee cbesawan == cna narnae=-seeweesran= cesalsa==—sicwesiemms 220 on Bitter Root and Hell Gate rivers ..---.------ -- 22 ------ oon conn enn nnn we ewes one ne ones == oneness 292 BE nt) aoe sees og sess 9 SOON S500 SDD OOSOOnS OOS OS bas eRSeed Coe rCoU SSO ceeeS SOneOso=05 451 Tinkham, A. W., civil engineer.....------..-.-------- >So ate assesoapopaco soand Sones song otecco nsecescscece 76 INStFUCtIONS tO ce < coon coc c meen cose ncn ce meee cnn ees cee mes cnce ccs een saecce caesesceesse s=5=5===~= 17-18 reports on Snoqualme Pass.--.-.-.---------- -- +--+ e222 2 === 2+ 228 eee nee eee eee eee ee eee 184-186, 621, 629-631 report, Blackfoot trail to Clark’s fork...-..--.----------- -------- --------eeeeee eee eee eeee sass ses0e- 273-275 report and instructions on Marias Pass line and Nez Perces trail..-.--.-.---------- ---------- 64, 69, 276-281, 625-629 Stevens’s Cascade passes—instructions....---.---- ------- ---- 22 - n+ woe ene ce ene wees ee eens rene eee 617-619 report on snows, Rocky mountains, Bitter Root river, and Cascade mountains ....... 2... e202 eeceee-s 399-400, 625-629 IGINETATION be eau) COM ONG WO MON ae ete ieee lea et al ee ee 352-358 Fort Benton to Fort Owen by Blackfoot trail .... 22. -2 22 2226 cone wees cone cane cee nne ones ona nn= oon onan 309-371 Fort Owen to Fort Benton by Jocko river, Flathead lake, and Marias Pass ...---------------------- ---- 371-374 Fort Owen to Wallah-Wallah by Nez Perces trail --...----- ------ --20- sone cee ene wee nne one woe en nnn 374-377 Trois Buttes report-....---...---- «=< BSnasceodscene Aeoros ses 335 sas 635s cee ss Sere <= 226-230 SXtracts SOM EpOLis Olja nen es cc eel semalwaea [sean lecien see see dls ieee alse sens seats Eee 87,88 Topography of route, Lambert’s report... ---. -----+ 2220 cece ne cone eee e ween cee e coer ene nns nnn senenee 160-177 Duncan's Cascade mountains report... . oe ooo ns oon wwe ca ceen onan coc ees cesnencnsesce=== . 203-219 UIT Tet erp pS OSE OE EEE Sane Sone oopocecees sor eeo peed scecccd coos: Hoos soe asesos6 wiceeRen 217, 564 Traditions of Indians, Lot’s wife.-...----- pnmnesiet scene tees masiscasicsiace seed ae een eninaeseeleee Sop wine peepee 212 To antl igi as 6555 Sac oS sd bee soeer 2550 Seca bo dses peod ocee Dass oce seen soong 885 se Recgoecis 22onos 207-208 Wyn Order ace cee caso eees Gen enc canclonteibens poecarianaa|pacincninaatlen sion sola abintaitels | me ale aaa ts eeiiieea 48-49 Traverse labsaasecee accents aaua) se ad onis'a/s)neujaaiciecle|sinwinin cen sacicie= = alawisimielape sole leans eines elena ee 487 Create aieOAt iL ANOLOIIS =o a meee iaia else ole me ol nei wlohe ims ml lsh sect eoueiseece eee ereaurcenieesstalasecre - 422, 424 Trois Buttes. (See Three Buttes.) INT OUTS ee Cee Oe AA seacibsad meson abocoteese GdsEes caeSe SSE SEec ence cheer eretanenasinenen Spoleto 117-120 (OPN Fy eSe SAPS Se SS aS BSS roce sa codsec Daca DSe Osa ES SS SSSS88 “HAS eOsD cao See oe 181-183 Twitsp river and valley . 2000 cee none cecens cons cauens ence anes cencce= aaj desece asa seesc6 25: ow omen ianaeen 197 Two Catton river ..---- aoe naenees Grae Mojamniswenwmelaun eluents eae oes nacabetivae cewetecmemien Soe aa 290, 536 U. Umatillu river. 220 202-202-205 oes ee ROICSOCLIA AE SE cosa 22 not Lic cocacc bapenb secmat inate pence 218 Ve Vancouver, Fort ..--c00 couse sncces cccccnces eae fe eee optane eps Rees eee eetiene: = nib onnepne eee 419 country near...--- --.. ------ ---- 22-2 = ee Subnet Shu ncWs a= a/es ex aie eer SSO a 204 BOUL AXLOUNG w2.5.2s2ccns ccccce encase ance cnrscecousansnsernen os eee | RE a 473 Variations of the needle ob served... ---- 0000+ -002nee ven nes ene n ee ene w ee cee e ween cnn es een e tenes eee eee neee INDEX. 651 Ww. Page. HN RIT = SOROS EO SEERA CE SORE DI DIEO QSOSOS OT OOOS Oma ES OOEISSH Coos COO SOS Cots ESotcs SaSes0 neoSco cessenBees 142-143, 154 AAT OR GO Senocae cae 2 ObbSod DoShco BheoaS Heocot cooSae esos cons noncSebeosncosss poomcodasssoonaseD sean 206 Inia OO Pap pee cen a booses HRS OCU OSI GOCO DO COCO SSSR CUS S00 DATOS RSCOSS HEScen GaOSES CooeconoSes GaseS 208 CY EE BU pees B= coO Cee COCDED DEBE ED COOEOS CLO GOO6 SOOO COO BSA COC CORECE GG BEDE CORC SOTO GaSe boSeeS 194 VUNG lemoc ecb co Pace cco chor noreen noe tacéas saeco orcs Co monecocheosooere cescdchcceechetcmecc 119 [OPT Oa pes o0c SOESS HOS SSS CO SSOE OHOeSO cSSSneb aseceecnerecoso5 Scho ocos coae seo hoDeSSeccooese cHoocs 218 PMA ETO ee CS SSG ON OSI ES eDOCS GSO 8 COE OREO RO SO OSD SECC BOSS DOSO EP eES BSCE o Eas 402-433, 617-618 INGTRTE peeecn saccen ccedes coco caso dnccec ceoascac SERS SE CORE HOSS EOSS Stooosooce cocSacneasas Goseosen 402-403 LYON OLE aN Ge R ON eee cetesta tee setae ecinsseieeeieseneeeaicees Seed Sonic on. ceed boceopdeneSG cebe 217 SHAT WE} Cosacc CoSSSO Sac ose Goeces sSg0co0 Secs Sees eoso esSas0 coenca pSsesed cecctn ccemom coca Bens 254 THM eaiconoc once Rane Sec OS en condos cEEponban Coon aSeSed ofos Hees oopoce BHoSSco oSdnccoon conencdecoos 285-286, 485 TEER OO EE Fe oo DCO ECE ICCD DEC ERED BE EOIOBOCCE DODECE Hen rr SSB ocSOS EHS CaoeSs NSoCTO CES COoecE ASSOC 218 VG DRE Tile HIME CMTOIS Gees DaSD ORCONOOSHS HNO OCOHSt ODS CO SSSeco coos65 BONSeS Banc coneHo coeseacaoscs 72-75, 499, 633 [PRAY RE) EHEEE 9 O80 0S05 SHOCNd CESS OS ESeS Ben SeF CSbSa6 CHSOSE nS ESSOUSCoSd CabSa0 SaS BESSS coco SSseca 15 [i NEUPRS COROT is edie S2ON CLINE DHONOSSCH0 BEd DOTON6 eawOtE Stomed ooaboSs Koco oocoos naDSoE bocce Ghoesd coeses 190, 210 I GROTTO: Cu Cir cac end HOOCES DOCS HCL CCS EHO CENd SNCS On OHO BEOLSS ceodee Gran ee acaoece coocescHeeoo DoSCES 211-212 Whatcamplaket ne sen cececis sacs leninainelace cst a cceetsdasan:eesecepecasasesticesels monsconeeso SomeoorercoCeeso 471 White Clay Bank creek...---..-----.---------- Seeibse SSS Sco Ss0SS4 oscose Sood anSdeg See See cans AsSshe Sesesise 341 Wikttegharthyrtuencnosaates sone a cc enioc so leona a ocjes ones lenians clea cocc eves ceaeuceentncue reer ceusesocee tases 242, 246 A POPERE IN orice on peoo Seo HOS CEN COeSOD DONEC OLECEr DOSS CH OSECEn AIeISos COAG DER ECOCOHCE? cesposcoas tsa 162 Wilds Rice Tivetnena|csanien ac ncoeste BSCR GH ROH SHA IO COSC DEC SCH ESOS DOnOSEGE SHas HhbdonoJeondacbanosee rece eens 91, 223 Willailootzas lake...-....-..----- SOOO SCO SOOCED ODS 000 COGOS CE COd CECA RS QOEE COSCOES BECO COGEES OS EREO RaSaN 181 UGE TO ae. C3890 CEOCCO BOSELOS BEOC EO COREE BICESe DOOEOS GOSH0 S856 S000 Hod5 Snes anos coscoo SESE ennaes 465-466 WEEN coe scs cone crooeserconncocc caeeae Se CdOS SCObSO CaaS COsO HSE oe Coes oneeonS Cosco sceces cesstess 200 LHS peninesco mac FOnnSedOLS HODOODEO BOI0 COO 7OCe GOO DOC ECO DE CODH BEB beccau GSobso aches cceceesasnas 428 Wininepat..---...---- pan ese wemm erwin ae =n nielem anew em ce se waeees wees sone nose care cern acs cnseascasacs cue aose 206 [CSTV IG Ro 213 00 SEROUS EOS COE CTO CONS OCCU SC RNCOOSE ESCO CREO CHAS REOEOSESeOCHSoE EsSamesoccecosso seme 320, 340-341, 634 Wane (BGO) WIRTGR sconce cone conbencedacon HHHOCo CoS noe SHSShSO AoSes Secon Sooo neneaces peso cesc cons ecesas 91-92, 124, 195 WOE HD CHT Os se 556 325000 CECOCOSS COE BOROSHOADDSSHDCSSC0 ecao ase coococ aces sconce nonoeoopecco casosac esc 31-32 Xe Vahinge rtveinsanascccascccceelcee SiOmCR Sb anOaeD SES ooode onocOd cea cnsHSossoecess SoCoso Race mo SStinccooScsS 210 VAUD OETG pao Se ence ee CIOS I0 COS SCOR SEEDER E CODE SEEPS ECO BSOOS SoccesS eso cacces omnes cnc ene cores aces 204 MUP TOT: Gee mead C020 DOCSIS DO ORCO QESC OO BC CROMNSCESS BESE SCoBSaT odoeco SEBS Ob OSC ES nECHED CaS SSO Caea SEOs asec 181, 210-211 pass and valley..---...---- cooinne beac coorechacooe mosccec peace doce asso resccoscecessoerc 26, 117, 182-183, 629-630 Exploralonpoterertees see eectaremee see cecle sae ecese erase sesioee ees soa sanseselen n= sewers