p
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lirfnt <Urtrr iVutim
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VOYA^
NEW-HOLLAND, &t
i
In the Year 1699.
Wherein are defcribed,
The Canary JQands9 the Ides of Mayo and St. Jago, The Bay of All-Saints^ with the Forts and Town of '■ Bahia in Brazil. Cape Salvador -e. The Winds on the Bra flan Coafl. Abrohlo Shoals. A Table of all the Variations obferv'd in this Voyage. Oc- currences near the Cape of Good-Hope. The Courfe to New-Holland. Shark's Bay. The Ifies and Coaft, &c. of New-Holland.
Their Inhabitants, Manners, Cuftoms, Trade, &c. Their Harbours, Soil, Beads, Birds, Fifh. &v. Trees, Plants, Fruits, &c.
Iiluftrated with feveral Map s and D rau g h t s : Alio divers Birds, Fiihes and Plants not found in this Par: of the World, Curioufly Ingraven on Copper- Platan
VOL. III.
By Captain William Dampier. The Third Edition.
L O N T> O N,
Printed for J ames and J ohn Knapton, at the Crown in Sc. Paul's Church- Yard. Mdccxxix, .
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To the Right Honourable ,
THOMAS
Earl of PEMBROKE,
Lord Prefident of Her Maje- fty*s Moft Honourable Pri- vy-Council, &*c.
My Lord,
THE Honour I had of being employ 'd in the Service of his late Majefty of lllufirious Memory, at the time when Tour Lordship prefided at the Admiralty, gives me the Boldnefs to ask Tour 'Protection of the following Tapers, They confift of fome Remarks made upon very diftant Climates, which I fhould have the Vanity to think altogether new^ could I perfuade my felf they had efcafd Tour Lordfhip's Knowledge. However 1 have been fo cautious of publifhing any thing in my whole Book that is generally known, that I have denfd my felf the T lea fur e of paying the due Honours to Tour Lordfhip's Name in the 'Dedication* I am afhamd, my Lord, to offer Tm fo imperfect a Trefent, having not time A % t@
r
■■HH
DEDICATION.
to fet down all the Memoirs of my laft Voyage; But as the particular Service I have now un- dertaken, hinders me from finishing this Volume y fo I hope it will give me an Opportunity of paying my Refpecls to Tour Lordfhip in a new one.
The World is apt to judge of every thing by the Succefs j and whoever has ill Fortune will hardly be allow d a good Name. This, my Lord, was my Unhappinefs in my late Ex- pedition in the Roe- buck, which founder d thro' perfect Age near the If and of Afcenfion. 1 fuffer d extreamly in my Reputation by that Misfortune 5 thd I comfort my felf with the Thoughts-) that my Enemies cou'd not charge any Neglecl upon me. Andfince I have the Honour to be acquitted by your Lordship's Judg- ment, I fkould be very humble not to value my felf upon fo compleat a Vindication. This9 and a World of other Favours y which I have been fo happy as to receive from Tour Lord- flip's Goodnefs, do engage me to be with an everlafiing RefpecJ,
My Lord, Your Lordfhip's Moil Faithful and Obedient Servant,
WILL. VAMTIER.
THE
ililliiiiiissiili
THE
PREFACE.
TH E favourable Reteption my two for- mer Volumes of Voyages and "Defcrip- tions have already met with in the World, gives me Reafon to hope, That notwithftand- ing the Objections which have been raifed a- gainft me by prejudiced Perfons, this Third ^Volume likewife may in fome meafure be ac- ceptable to Candid and Impartial Readers, who are curious to know the Nature of the Inhabi- tants, Animals, Plants, Soil, &c. in thofe dif- tant Countries, which have either feldom or not at all been vifited by any Europeans.
It has almoft always been the Fate of thofe who have made new Difcoveries, to be dif- efteemed and {lightly fpoken of, by fuch as ei- ther have had no true Relifti and Value for the Things them] elves that are difcovered, or have had fome Prejudice againft the "Perfons by whom the Difcoveries were made. It would be vain therefore and unreafonable in me to exped to cfcapc the Ccnfurc of all, or to hope for A i better
r
The preface:
better Treatment than far Worthier Perfons have met with before me. But this Satisfa&ion I am Cure of having, that the Things them- /elves in the Difcovery of which I have been imployed, are mod worthy of our diligenteft Search and Inquiry ; being the various and wonderful Works of God in different Parts of the World : And however unfit a 'Per/on I may be in other refpeels to have undertaken this Task, yet at lead I have given a faithful Account, and have found fome Things undif- covered by any before, and which may at leaft be fome AiTiftance and Direction to better qua- lified Perfons who fhall come after me.
It has been obje&ed againft me by fome,that my Accounts and Defcriptions of Things are dry and jejune, not filled with variety of pleafant Mat- ter, to divert and gratify the Curious Reader, How far this is true, I muft leave to the World to judge. But if 1 have been exactly and ftri&ly careful to give only True Relations and Defcrip- tions of Things fas I am fure I have 5) and if my Defcriptions be fuch as may be of ufe not on- ly to my felf (which I have already in good meafure experienced) but alfo to others in future Voyages j and likewife to fuch Readers at home as are more defirous of a Plain and Juft Account of the true Nature and State of the Things defcribed, than of a Polite and Rheto- rical Narrative: I hope all the Defeds in my Stile, will meet with an eafy and ready Par- don,
Others
The 9REFJCE, Others have taxed me with borrowing from other Men's Journals j and with Inefficiency, as if I was not my felf the Author of what I write, but ptiblimed Things digefted and drawn up by others. As to the firft Part of this Obje- ftion, I affure the Reader, I have taken no- thino- from any Man without mentioning his Name, except fome very few Relations and particular ObferVations received from credible Perfons who defired not to be named ; and thefe I have always exprcffly diftinguifhed in my Books, from what 1 relate as of my own obferving. And as to the latter 5 I think it fo far from being a Diminution to one of my Education and Employment, to have what I write, Revifed and Corrected by Friends; that on the contrary, the beft and mod eminent Authors are not afhamed to own the fame Thing, and look upon it as an Advan-
tage
Laftly, I know there are fome who arc apt to flight my Accounts and Defcriptions of Things, as if it was an eafte Matter and of little or no Difficulty to do all that I have done, to vifit little more than the Coafts of Unknown Countries, and make fhort and im- perfect Obfervations of Things only near the Shore. But whoever is experienced in thefe Matters, or confidcrs Things impartially, will be of a very different Opinion. And any one who is fenftbie, how backward and refractory the Seamen are apt to be in long Voyages A 4 when
The ? RE FACE.
when they know not whither they arc going~ how ignorant they are of the Nature of the Winds and the fhifting Seafons of the Mon- foons, and how little even the Officers them- feives generally are skilled in the Variation of the Needle and the Ufe of the Azimuth Compafs ; beftdes the Hazard of all outward Accidents in ftrange and unknown Seas : Any one, 1 fay, who is fenfible of thefe Dif- cultics, will be much more pleafed at the Difccvcrics and Obfervations I have been able to make, than difpleafed with me that I did not make more.
Thus much 1 thought necefTary to premife in my own Vindication, againft the Objections that have been made to my former Perform- ances. But not to trouble the Reader any- further with Matters of this Nature ; what I have more to offer, fhall be only in relation to the following Voyage.
lor the better apprehending the Courfe of this Voyage, and the Situation of the Places m ntioned in it, I have here, as in the former Volumes, cauled a Map to be Ingraven, with a prick'd Line, reprefenting to the Eye the whole Thread of the Voyage at one View j befides Draughts and Figures of particular Places, to make the Defcriptions I have given of them more intelligible and ufeful.
Moreover, which I had not-the opportunity of doing in my former Voyages ; having now had in the Ship with me a Perfon skilled in
Drawing,
The ¥ RE FACE.
Drawing, I have by ,this means been enabled, for the greater Satisfaction of the Curious Reader, to prefent him with exact Cuts and Figures of feveral of the principal and moft remarkable of thofe Birds, Beafts, Fifhes and Plants, which are defcribed in the following Narrative 5 and alio of feveral, which not be- ing able to give any better or fo good an Account of, as by caufmg them to be exactly Ingraven, the Reader will not find any further Defcription of them, but only that they were found in fuch or fuch particular Countries. The Plants themfelves are in the Hands of the Ingenious Dr. Woodward. I could have caufed many others to be drawn in like manner, but that I refolved to confine my felf to fuch only, as had fome very remarkable difference in the Shape of their principal Parts from any that are found in Europe. 1 have befides feveral Birds and Fifhes ready drawn, which I could not put into the prefent Volume, becaufe they were found in Countries, to the Defcription where- of the following Narrative does not reach. For, being obliged to prepare for another Voy- age, fooner than I at firft expeded 5 I have not been able to continue the enfuing Narrative any further than to my Departure from the Coaft of New Holland. But, if it pleafe God that I return again fafe, the Reader may ex- pect a Continuation of this Voyage from my departure from New Holland, till the foun- ding of my Ship near the Ifland of Af- cenfion. In
The PREFACE.
In the mean time, to, make the Narrative in fome meafure compleat, I mail here add a Summary Abftrad of that latter part of the Voyage, whereof I have not had time to draw out of my Journals a full and particular Ac- count at large. Departing therefore from the Coaft of New Holland in the beginning of September, 1699. (for the Reafons mentioned Page 107.) we arrived at Timor, Sept. 15; and anchored off that Ifland. On the 24th we obtained a fmall Supply of frefh Water from the Governor of a 'Dutch Fort and Fa&ory there 3 we found alfo there a Portu- guese Settlement, and were kindly treated by them. On the 3d of December we arrived on the Coaft of New Guinea ; where we found good frefh Water, and had Commerce with the Inhabitants of a certain Ifland caird Pub* Sabuti. After which, palling to the North- ward, we ranged along the Coaft to the Eafter* mod Part of New Guinea , which I found does not join to the main Land of New Guinea, but is an Ifland, as I have defcribecL it in my Map, and caird it New-Britain.
It is probable this Ifland may afford many rich Commodities, and the Natives may be cafily brought to Commerce. But the many Difficulties I at this time met with, the want of Convenience to clean my Ship, the few- nefs of my Men, their Defire to haften home, and the Danger of continuing in thefe Cir- cumftances in Seas where the Shoals and Coafts
were
The PREFACE,
were utterly unknown, and snuft be fearched out with much Caution and length of Time ; hindred me from profecuting any further at preient my intended Search. What I have been able to do in this Matter for the Publick Service, will, I hope, be candidly rcceiv d ; and no Difficulties (hall difcourage me from endeavouring to promote the fame End, when- ever I have an Opportunity put into my Hands.
May 18. in our Return, we arrived at Timor. June 21, we pad by part of the Ifland Java. July 4, we anchored in Batavia-Kozd j and 1 went afhore, vifited the 'Dutch General, and defired the Privilege of buying Provifions that I wanted, which was granted me. In this Road we lay till the 17th of October follow- ing; when, having fitted the Ship, recruited my felf with Provifions, filled all my Water, and the Seafon of the Year for returning to- wards Europe being come 5 I fet Sail from Batavia, and on the 1 9th of December made the Cape of Good Hope-, whence departing Jan< 1 1, we made the Ifland of Santa Hellena on the 31ft; and February the 21ft, the Ifland of Afcenjion j near to which my Ship, having fprung a Leak which could not be flopped, foundred at Sea; with much difficulty we got afhore, where we liv'd on Goats and Turtle 5 and on the 26th of February found, to our great Comfort, on the S, E. Side of a high Mountain, about half a Mile from its Top, a
Spring
The PREFACE.
Spring of frefh Water. I returned to Eng- land in the Canterbury Eaft-Indza-Shlp. Por which wonderful Deliverance from fo many and great Dangers, I think my felf bound to return continual Thanks to Almighty God 5 whofe Divine Providence if it (hall pleafe to bring me fafe again to my Native Country from my prefent intended Voyage ; I hope to publifh a particular Account of all the material Things I obferved in the feverai Places which I have now but barely mentioned.
THE
?^®j *^P5 JCS^ J«®S j®Pi ?®S? ?^®S ?^s* £
THE
CONTENTS.
CHAP. I.
T
i/Z£ ^/j departure from the Downs. A Caution to thofe who fail in the Channel His Arrival at the Canary- Iflands. Santa Cruz in TenerifFe 5 the Road and Town, and Spanilh Wreck. Laguna T. Lake and Country j and Oratavia 71 and Road. Of the Wines and other Commodities of TenerifFe,' &c. and the Go- vernors at Laguna and Santa Cruz. Of the Winds in thefe Seas. The As Ar- rival at Mayo. Of the C. Verd Iflands ; its Salt-pond, compar'd with that of Salt Tortugaj its Trade {or Salt, and Frape* boats. Its Vegetables, Silk- Cotton, Sec. Its Soil, and Towns ; its Guinea-Hen's, and other Fowls, Beafts, and Fifb. Of the Sea-Turtles, $cc. laying in the Wet
Seafoiriz
t
The CONTENTS.
Seafon. Of the Natives, their Trade and Livelihood. The A!s Arrival at J. St. Jago ; Proga, and St. Jago Town. Of the Inhabitants, and their Commodities. Of the Cufiard-Aj>ple, St. Jago Road. J. Fogo.
C H A P. H.
The A.'s 'Deliberation on the Sequel of his Voyage, and departure from St. Jago. His Courfe, and the Winds, dec. in crof- fing the Line. He ftands away for the Bay of All-Saints in Brazil 5 and why. His Arrival on that Coaft and in the Bay. Of the feveral Forts, the Road, Situation, Town, and Buildings of Bahia. Of its Governour, Ships and Merchants $ and Commodities to and from Europe. Claying of Sugar. The Seafon for the European Ships, and Coire Cables: Of their Guinea-trade, and of the Coafting- trade, and Whale-killing. Of the Inhabi- tants of Bahia -, their carrying in Ham- mocks; Their Artificers, Crane for Goods, and ^<t%to-Slaves. Of the Country about Bahia, its Soil and 'ProducJ. Its Timber- trees-, the Sapiera, Vermiatico, Comeflerie, Guitteba, Serrie, and Mangroves. The Baftard-Coco, its Nuts and Cables ; and the Silk-Cotton-trees, The Brafilian Fruits, Oranges, &c. Of the Sour-fops, Cafhew's,
mi
The CONTENTS.
And Jennipah's. Of fheir peculiar Fruits, Arifatvs, Mericafah's, Petango's, Petumbo's, Mungaroo's, Muckifhaw's, Ingwa's, Otees, and Mufteran de Ova's. Of the Talm- berries, Thyfick-nuts, Mendibee's, &c. and their Roots and Herbs, &c. Of their Wild-Fowl, Maccaw's, 'Parrots, &c. The Ycmma, Carrion-Crow and Chattering- crow, Bill-bird, Currefo, Turtle-dove and Wild-pigeons 5 the Jenetee, Clocking-hen, Crab-catcher, Galden, and black Heron: The 'Ducks, Widgeon and Teal 5 and Ofiriges to the Southward, and of the cDunghil- fowls. Of their Cattle, Horfes, &c. Leopards and Tiger's. Of their Serpents $ the Rattle-Snake, [mail Green- Snake ; Am- phisbaena, fmall Black and fmall Grey- Snake -y the great Land, and the great Water- Snake ; and of the Water-dog. Of their Sea-fijh and Turtle % and of St* PaulV Town.
G PI A P. III.
The A.'s Stay and Bujlnefs at Bahia ; Of the Winds, and Seafons of the Tear there. His departure for N. Holland. C. Salvadore, The Winds on the Brafilian Coaft; and Abrohio Shoal-, Fifb, and Birds: The Shear-water Bird, and Cooking of Sharks. Excejfive number of Birds about a dead Whale 5 Of the Tintado Bird, and the
Tetrel,
The contents;
Tetrel, &c. Of a Bird that fbews the C. of G. Hope to be near : Of the Sea- reckonings, and Variations : And a Table of all the Variations objervd in this Voyage. Occurrences near the Cape 5 and the A.'s faffing by it. Of the Wefterly Winds be- yond it : A Storm, and its Trefages. The A.'s Courfe to N. Holland ; and Signs of approaching it. Another Abrohlo Shole and Storm, and the A.'s Arrival on part of N. Holland. That part defer ib' d $ and Sharker Bay, where *he firft anchors. Of the Land there, Vegetables \ Birds, &c. A particular fort of Guano : ' Fifh, and beau- tiful Shells s Turtle, large Shark, and Water-Serpents. The A.'s removing to another fart of N. Holland : 'Dolphins, Whales, and more Sea-Serpents : And of a Paffage or Streight fufpecled here : Of the Vegetables, Birds, and Fifh. He an- chors on a third Tart of N. Holland, and digs Wells, but brackijh. Of the Inhabi- tants there, the great Tides ? the Vegetables and Animals, 6cc.
^Dampiefs
An. 1699.
DJMTIER's Voyage
VOL. III.
-^ Voyage to Terra Auftratas. ||
CHAP. I.
T£e ^.'j Departure from the Downs. A Caution to thofe who fail in the Channel. His Arrival at the Canary-Iflands. Santa Cruz in Teneriffe; the Road and Town, and Spanilh Wreck. Laguna T. Lake and Country ; and Oratavia T. and Road. Of the Wines and other Commodities of Teneriffe, &c. and the Governours at Laguna and Santa Cruz. Of the Windi in theje Seas. The As Arrival at Mayo, one of the C. Verd Iflands ; its Salt-pond, compar'd with that of Salt-Tortuga; its Trade for Salt, and Fnpe-foats. Its Vegetables, Silk- Cotton, &c. Its Soil, and Towns , its Guinea- Hens, and other Fowls, Beafis, and Tift). Of the Sea-Turtles (&C.) laying in the vet Seafon. Of the Natives, their Trade and Livelihood. The A fs Arrival at J. St. Jago, and St. Jago Town. Of the Inhabitants, and their Commodities. Of the Cuftard- Apple , and the Papah< St. Jago Road, J. Fogo.
ISail'd from the Downs early on Saturday, Jan. 14. 169!. with a fair Wind, in his Majefty^s Ship the Roe-buck; carrying but 12 Guns in this Voyage, and 50 Men and Boys, with 20 Month's Provifion. We had feveral of the King's Ships in Company, bound for S-pil-head and Plimouih \ and by Noon we were off Dungenefs. We parted from them that Night, and flood down the Channel, but found our felves nexC Morning nearer the French
OL.
Ill
B
Coaft
r
'i An Error noted. C. Finifterre. J. Lanccrota^
'An. 1699. Coaft than we expe&ed ; C. de Hague bearing S. E. and ^^C^ by E. 6 L. There were many other Ships, fome near- er, fome farther off the French Coaft, who all feem'd to have gone nearer to it than they thought they mould. My Mafter, who was fomewhat troubled at it at firft, was not difpleas'd however to find that he had Company in his Miftake : Which, as I have heard, is a very common one, and fatal to many Ships. The Occafion of it is the not allowing for the Change of the Variation fince the making of the Charts -, which Captain Halty has obferv'd to be very confi- 'An Ad- derable. I mall refer the Reader to his own Account mZfne. of k which he Caus'd to be publifli'd in a fingle Sheet ceffdry to of Paper, purpofely for a Caution to fuch as pafs to Be obferv'd &nd fro the Englijh Channel : The Title of it is in the in the Na- Margin. And my own Experience thus confirming IflnT to me the Ufefulnefs of fuch a Caution, I was wil- dowu the nng }° fake this Occafion of helping towards the channel o/making it the more publick.
England. Not to trouble the Reader with every Day's Run, nor with the Winds or Weather (but only in the remoter Parts, where it may be more particularly ufeful) Handing away from C. la Hague, we made the Start about 5 that Afternoon ; which being the I aft Land we faw of England, we reckon'd our De- parture from thence: Tho' we had rather have ta- ken k from the Lizard, if the hazy Weather would have fuffer'd us to have feen it.
The firft Land we faw after we were out of the Channel was C. Fmifterre, which we made on the 19th 5 and on the 28'th made Lancerota, one of the Canary Iflands ; of which, and of Allegrance, ano- ther of them, 1 have here given the Sights, as they both appeard to us at two feveral Bearings and Di- ftances. [Table I. N°. 1, 2.]
We were now ftanding away for the Ifland Tehf- riffe, where I intended to take in fome Wine and Brandy for my Voyage. On Sunday, half an hour
pafc
*£/« x. C a*ia*-y Mands
^v^
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I,Alleerance, dift , ■ ahout 1 z , Xmayu&s at ik^ ^artngs
S.£ hy£.
S.JS hy S.
I,lancerota Shtu* thus atyjame, time. , dift ■: about jyZ.af theft, Zear,
iS,J J£ S.fryJS.
^*z' I , Alle prance dtjl : dhoutr if Z . at -the, Qearirups Z.S.JS.
[.Zancerota. Jhe-tvs -thus aty Same, time , dtjt: about if Z
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Cthe Staht of Z-a.ncer'ata, continued
S,JZ by S, -Tfiij Z&mt-mazk. is part
of I .^rtej^entura
r
J> Allegrance, J. Tencr. Santa Cruz Road, 3
paft 3 in the Afternoon, we made the Ifland, and An. 1699; crouded in with all our Sails till 5 ; when the N. E. ^YN^ Point of the Ifle bore W. S. W. dill. 7 Leagues : But being then (o far off that I could not expect to get-in before Night, I lay by till next Morning, de- liberating whether I mould put in at Santa Cruz, or at Oratavia, the one on the E. the other on the W. fide of the Ifland ; which lies moftly North and South ; and thefe are the principal Ports on each Side. I chofe Santa Cruz as the better Harbour fefpecially at this Time of the Year) and as belt furnifh'd with that Sort of Wine which I had occafion to take in for my Voyage : So there I come to an Anchor Jan. 30th, in 33 Fathom-water, black {limy Ground •, about half a Mile from the Shore-, from which Diftance I took the Sight of the Town [Ta- ble! N°. 3.]
In the Road, Ships mull ride in 30, 40, or 50 Fathom-water, not above half a Mile from the Shore at farther!: : And if there are many Ships, they muft ride clofe one by another. The Shore is generally high Land, and in moll Places fteep too. This Road lies fo open to the Eaft, that Winds from that Side make a great Swell, and very bad going afhore in Boats : The Ships that ride here are then often forced to put to Sea, and fometimes to cut or flip their Anchors, not being able to weigh them. The befl and fmootheft Landing is in a fmall fandy Cove, about a Mile to the N. E. of the Road, where there is good Water, with which Ships that lade here are fupply'd j and many Times Ships that lade 2Lt Oratavia, which is the chief Port for Trade, fend their Boats hither for Water. That is a worfe Port for WTellerly than this is for Eallerly Winds ; and then all Ships that are there put to Sea. Between this Watering-place and Santa Cruz are two little Forts ; which with fome Batteries fcatter'd along jffee feoaft command the Road. Santa Crust- j& fel? B 2 is
r
4 T. and Wrecks. Way from S. Cruz to Laguna.
^L1^- is a fmall unwalled Town fronting the Sea, guarded ^^y^ with two other Forts to fecure the Road. There are about 200 Houfes in the Town, all two Stories high, ftrongly built with Stone, and covered with Pantile. It hath two Convents and one Church, which are the belt Buildings in the Town. The Forts here could not fecure the Spanijh Galleons from Admiral Blake, tho' they hall'd in clofe under the main Fort. Many of the Inhabitants that are now living remember that Action ; in which the EngJifh batter'd the Town, and did it much Damage ; and the Marks of the Shot flill remain in the Fort- Walls. The Wrecks of the Galleons that were burnt here, lie in 15 Fathom-water : And 'tis faid that moft of the Plate lies there, tho* fome of it was haftily carried afnore at Blake's coming in Sight.
Soon after I had anchor'd I went alhore here to the Governour of the Town, who receiv'd me very kindly, and invited me to dine with him.the next Day. I return'd on Board in the Evening, and went a- fnore again with two of my Officers the next Morn- ing •, hoping to get up the Hill Time enough to fee Laguna, the principal Town, and to be back again to dine with the Governour of Santa Cruz ; for I was told that Laguna was but 3 Miles off. The Road is all the way up a pretty fteep Hill ; yet not fo fteep but that Carts go up and down laden. There are Publick Houfes fcattering by the Way-fide, where we got fome Wine. The Land on each Side feemed to be but rocky and dry ; yet in many Places we law Spots of green flotirifhing Corn. At far- ther Distances there were fmall Vineyards by the Sides of the Mountains, intermixt with Abundance of wafie rocky JLand,. unfit for Cultivation, which a horded only Dildo-bufhes. It was about 7 or 8 in the Morning when we fet out from Santa Cruz • and ic- being fair clear Weather, the Sun fhone very d warmed us fufficiently before we got to
rh
is
Laguna T.
and Gardens.
S
the City Laguna s which we reached about 10 ^An^^ Clock, all fweaty and tired, and were glad to re- "O^ frefh our felves with a little Wine in a ibrry Tip- lincr-houfe : But we foon found out one of the Eng- lifi. Merchants that refided here \ who entertained us handibmely at Dinner, and. in the Afternoon fhew'd us the Town.
Laguna is a pretty large well-compacted Town, and makes a very agreeable Profpect. It Hands part of it againft a Hill, and part in a Level. The Houfes have moftly ftrong Walls built with Stone and covered with Pantile. They are not uniform, yet they appear pleafant enough. There are many- fair Buildings ■, among which are 2 Parim-Churches, 2 Nunneries, an Hofpital, 4 Convents, and lbme Chapels -, befides many Gentlemens Houfes, The Convents are thofe of St. Aiijrin, St. Dominick, St. Francis, and St. Diego. The two Churches have pretty high fquare Steeples, which top the 'reft of the Buildings. The Streets are not regular, yet they are moitiy fpacious and pretty handibme ; and near the middle of the Town is a large Parade, which has good Buildings about it. There is a ftrong Priibn on one Side of it •, near which is a large°Conduit of good Water, that fupplies all the Town. They have many Gardens which are let round with Oranges, Limes, and other Fruits : In the middle of which are Pot-herbs, Sallad'mg, Flow- ers, fcfr. And indeed, if the Inhabitants were cu- rious this way, they might have very pleaiant Gar- dens : For as the Town ftands high from the Sea, on the Brow of a Plain that is all open to the Eair, and hath confequently the Benefit of the true Trade- wind, which blows here, and is moil commonly fair"; fo there are feldom wanting at this Town, brisk, cooling, and refrefhing Breezes all the Day.
B3
Qi,
r
6 Laguna P/f^j, Z,^^, &c. Pike of Ten."
^699- On the Back of the Town there is al arge Plain Y y of 3 or 4 Leagues in length and 2 Miles wide, pro- ducing a thick kindly Sort of Grafs, which lookt green and very pleafant when I was there, like our Meadows in England in the Spring. On the Eaft- fide of this Plain, very near the Back of the Town, there is a natural Lake or Pond of frefh Water. Ic is about half a Mile in Circumference; but beino- ftagnant, 'tis only us'd for Cattle to drink of. In the Winter-time feveral Sorts of wild Fowl refort hither affording Plenty of Game to the Inhabitants of Laguna. This City is called Laguna from hence ; :or that Word in 'Spanijb fignifles a Lake or Pond. The Plain is bounded on the W. the N. W and thtS, W. with high fteep Hills ; as high above this £lain as this is above the Sea ; and 'tis from the ±oot of one of thefe Mountains that the Water of the Conduit which fupplies the Town, is conveyed over the Plain, in Troughs of Stone rais'd upon dinars. And, indeed, confidering the Situation of the Town, its large Profpecl to the Eaft (Tor from hence you fee the Grand Canary) its Gardens, cool Arbors, pleafant Plain, green Fields, the Pond and Aqueduct and its refrefhing Breezes ; it is a very cehghtful Dwelling, efpeciaily for fuch as have not Buimeis that calls them far and often from Home : *pr the Ifland being generally mountainous, fteep and craggy, full of Rifings and Fallings, 'tis very trotiblefome Travelling up and down in it, unlefs in the Cool of the Morninas and Evenings: And Mqres and Affes are. m oft us'd by them, "both for ■Kiding and Carriage, as htteft for the ftony, une~ ven 'Roads. ' J
Beyond ^ Mountains, on the S. W. fide, ftill Blttnej; up, you may fee from the Town and Plain a irnall pee^a Hill, overlooking the reft. This is that which rs called • the Pih of Tenenfe, fo much noted for us Heighrh : But we faw it here at lb great
a Difad-
Wines. Oratavia.^ Verdona-w/»*, Fruits, See. 7
a Difad vantage, by Reafon of the Nearnefs of the^». ^699» adjacent Mountains to us, that it looked inconfide- {>srY~>* rable in Refped to its Fame.
The true Malmefy Wine grows in this Ifland ; and this here is faid to be the beft of its Kind in the World. Here is alfo Canary-Wine, and Verdona, or Green-wine. The Canary grows ' chiefly on the Weft- fide of the Ifland •, and therefore is commonly fent to Oratavia ; which being the chief Sea- port for Trade in the Ifland, the principal Englijh Merchants refide there, with their Conful ; becaufe we have a great Trade for this Wine. I was told, that that Town is bigger than Laguna -, that it has but one Church, but many Convents : That the Port is but ordinary at beft, and is very bad when the N. W. Winds blow. Thefe Norwefters give notice of their Coming , by a great Sea that tumbles in on the Shore for fome Time before they come, and by a black Sky in the N. W. Upon thefe Signs Ships either get up their Anchors, or flip their Cables and put to Sea, and ply off and on till the Weather is over. Sometimes they are forced to do fo . 2 or 3 Times before they can take in their Lading ; which 'tis hard to do here in the fair- eft Weather : And for frefti Water, they fend, as I have faid, to, Santa Cruz. Ver&ona is green, ftrong- bodied Wine, harfher and fharper than Canary. sTis not fo much efteemed in Europe, but js ex- ported to the Weft-Indies, and will keep beft in hot Countries •, for which Reafon I touch' d here to take in fome of it for my Voyage. This Sort of Wine js made chiefly on the Eaft-fide of the Ifland, and Ihipt off at Santa Cruz. w
Befides thefe Wines, which are yearly vended in great Plenty from the Canary Iflands (chiefly from Grand Canary, Teneriffe, and Palma) here is Store of Grain, as Wheat, Barly and Maiz, which they of- ten tranfport to other Places. They have alfo fome B 4 Beans.
r
^w
8 Animals and Trade of the Canaries.^
^^99- Beans and Peas, and Coches, a Sort of Grain much like Maiz, fow'd moftly to fatten Land. They have Papah's, which I IhalJ fpeak more of hereafter ; Apples, Pears, Plumbs, Cherries, and excellent Peaches, Apricocks, Guava's, Pomegranates, Ci- trons, Oranges,. Lemons, Limes, Pumpkins, Oni- ons the beft in the World, Cabbages, Turnips, Po-' tato's, &c. They are alfo well Hocked with Hor- fes, Cows, Affes, Mules, Sheep, Goats, Hogs, Conies, and Plenty of Deer, The Lancerot Horfes are faid to be the mofl mettlefome, fleet, and loy- al Horfes that are. Laftly, here are many Fowls, as Cocks and Hens, Ducks, Pidgeons, Partridges, &c with Plenty of Fifh, as Mackril, &c. All the Canary Iflands have of thefe Commodities and Pro- vifions more or lefs : But as Lancerota is moil fam'd for Horfes, and Grand Canary Teneriffe, and PaU major Wines, Teneriffe efpecially for the beft Malmefy, (Tor which Reafon thefe 3 Iflands have the chief Trade) fo is Forteventura for Dunghil-Fowls, and Gomera for Deer. Fowls and other Eatables are dear on the Trading Iflands •, but very plentiful and cheap on the other ; and therefore 'tis beft for fuch Ships that are going out on long Voyages, and who defign to take in but little Wine, to touch ra- ther at thefe laft ; where alfo they may be fupply'd with Wine enough, good and cheap : And for my own Part, if I had known' before I came hither, I fliould have gone rather to one of thofe Iflands than zoTeneriffe: But enough of this.
Tis reported they can raife 12000 armed Men on this Ifland. The Governor or General fas he is call'd) of all the Canary Iflands lives at Laguna : His Name is Don Pedro de Ponto. He is a Native of this Ifland, and was not long fince Prefident of Pa- nama in the South Seas ; who bringing fome very rich Pearls from thence, which he prefented to the Queen of Spain, was therefore, as 'tis faid, made
General
Govern, at LagunaWS. Cruz. Trade-Wind. 9
General of the Canary Iflands. The Grand Canary ^ V^9j is an IOand much fuperiour to feneriffe both in Bulk ^ ^ and Value •, but this Gentleman chufes rather to re- fide in this his native Ifland. He has the Chara- cter of a very worthy Perfon ; and governs with Moderation and Juftice, being very well be- loved.
• One of his Deputies was the Governor of banta Cruz, with whom I was to have din'd ; but flaying fo long at Laguna, I came but Time enough to fup with him. He is a civil, difcreet Man. He refides in the main Fort clofe by the Sea. There is a Cen- tinel Hands at his Door •, and he has a few Servants to wait on him. I was treated in a large dark lower Room, which has but one fmall Window. There were about 200 Muskets hung up againft the Walls, and fome Pikes-, no Wainfcot, Hangings, nor much Furniture. There was only a fmall old Table, a few old Chairs, and 2 or 3 pretty long Forms to fit on. Having fupp'd with him, I invited him on Board, and went off in my Boat. The next Morn- ing he came aboard with another Gentleman in his Company, attended by 2 Servants : But he was pre- fently Sea-fick, and fo much out of order, that he could fcarce eat or drink any Thing, but went quickly afhore again.
Havino- refrefh'd my Men afhore, and taken. in what we had occafion for, I fail'd away from Santa Cruz on Feb. 4. in the Afternoon ; haftening out all I could, becaufe the N. E. Winds growing ftorroy made fo great Sea, that the Ship was fcarce late m the Road ; and I was glad to get out, tho' we left behind feveral Goods we had bought and paid for : For a Boat could not go afhore ; and the Strefs was fo great in weighing Anchor, that the Cable broke. I defign'd next for the I. of Mayo, one of the C Verd Wands ; and ran away with a ftrong N. E, Wind, right afore it, all that Night and the next
Day,
r
10 Pike of Ten. J. Mayo, one of the C. VerdV ^V^99-Day, at the Rate of 10 or n Miles an Hour; S^TFv; when it flackened to a more moderate Gale. The Canary Iflands are, for their Latitude, within the u- fual Verge of the true or general Trade- Wind ; which I have obferv'd to be, on this Side the Equa- tor, N. Eafterly : But then lying not far from the African Shore, they are moil fubjecl: to a N. Wind, which is the Coafting and conjiant Trade, fweeping that Coaft down as low as to C. Verd; which fpread- mg in Breadth, takes in moftly the Canary Iflands ; tho' it be there interrupted frequently with the true Trade- Wind, N. Weft- Winds, or other Shifts of Wind that Ifiands are fubjecl: to ; efpecially where they he many together. The Pike of Ten-eriffe, which had generally been clouded while we lay at Santa Cruz, appear'd now all white with Snow ho- vering over the other Hills > but their Height made it feem the lefs confiderable j for it looks molt re-, markable to Ships that are to the Weftward of it We had brisk N. N. E. and N. E. Winds from Te- nenffe ; and faw Flying-fifli, and a great deal of Sea- thiftle Weed floating. By the 9th of Feb. at Noon we were in the Lat. of 15 d. 4 m. fo we fteered a Wajf,W. N. W. for the I. of Mayo, being by Judg- ment, not far to the E. of it, and at 8 a Clock in the Evening lay by till Day. The Wind was then at W. by South, and fo it continued all Night, fair Weather, and a fmall eafy Gale. All thefe were great Signs, that we were near fome Land, after ha- ving had fuch conftant brisk Winds before. In the Morning after Sun-rife, we faw the Ifland at about 4 Leagues diflance. But it was fo hazy over it, that we could fee but a fmall Part of it ; yet even by that Part I knew it to be the Ifle of Mayo. See how it appear'd to us at feveral Viezvs, as we were compaffingtheE. the S. E. and the S. of it, to set to the Road, on the S. W. of it, [Table II N° 1 2, 3,] and the Road it felf [N°. 4.]
I got
#?>• IJlayo., at XZ. lift -,y S, -point cover <L with a,$cg ■ '
ffffx. I
Mavo at -ihe.fi Z^ea-rind* .'then if $ath ; til Coral, about;
^F7 I .^ayo . [landing au«y *ct/S. W. -point of it, dift.J^ -» t'/w. ^^1^
r
Coafts of J. Mayo. 1 1
I got not in till the next Day, Feb. u. when I An. 1699, come to an Anchor in the Road, which is the Lee- V-OT>J ward Part of the Ifland ', for 'tis a general Rule, never to anchor to Wind-ward of an Ifland between the Tropicks. We anchored at 11 a Clock in 14 Fathom clean Sand, and very fmooth Water, about three quarters of a Mile from the Shore, in the fame Place where I anchor'd in my Voyage round the World-, and found riding here the Newport of London, * Merchant Man, Captain Barefoot Commander, who welcomed me with 3 Guns, and I returned one for Thanks. He came from Fayal one of the V/eftern Iflands j and had Store of Wine and Brandy aboard. He was taking in Salt to carry to New-found-land, and was very glad to fee one of the King's Ships, being before our coming afraid of Pyrates ; which, of late Years, had much infefted this and the reft of the Cape Vera1 Iflands.
I have given fome Account of the Ifland of Mayo, and of other of thefe Iflands, in my Voyage round the World, [Vol. I. p. 70.] but I ftiall now add fome further Obfervations that occurr'd to me in this Voyage. The I. of Mayo is about 7 Leagues in Circumference, of a roundifh Form, with many fmall rocky Points fhooting out into the Sea a Mile, or more. Its Lat. is 15 d. N. and as you fail about the Ifle, when you come pretty nigh the Shore, _ you will fee the Water breaking off from thofe Points -, which you mult give a Birth to, and avoid them. I fail'd at this Time two Parts in three round thel- fland, but faw nothing dangerous befides thefe Points • and they all Ihew'd themfelves by the Break- ing of the Water : Yet 'tis reported, that on the N. and N. N. W. Side there are dangerous Sholes, that lye farther off at Sea •, but I was not on that Side. There are 2 Hills on this Ifland of a confiderable Heighth \ one pretty bluff, the other peeked at top. The reft of the Ifland is pretty level, and of a goo4
Heighth
1 2 Sdt-Tondof J. Mayo. Salt-kerning,
rAn. i699.He!ghth from the Sea. The Shore clear round ,WN* hath fancjy gayS5 between the rocky Points I fpake
df j and the whole Ifland is a very dry Sort of
Soil.
On the Weft-fide of the Ifle where the Road for Ships is, there is a large fandy Bay, and a Sand- bank, of about 40 Paces wide within it, which runs along the Shore 2 or 3 Miles ; within which there is a large Salina or Salt-pond, contained between the Sand- bank and the Hills beyond it. The whole Salina is about 2 Miles in length, and half a Mile wide ; but above one half of it is commonly dry. The North End only of the' Pond never wants Wa- ter, producing Salt from November till May, which is here the dry Seafon of the Year. The Water which yields this Salt, works in from out of the Sea through a Hole in the Sand-bank before-menti- oned, like a Sluce, and that only in Spring-tides ; when it fills the Pond more or lefs, according to the Height of the Tides. If there is any Salt in the Ponds when the Flufh of Water comes in, it presently diffolves : But then in 2 or 3 Days after it begins to kern \ and fo continues kerning till either ail, or the greater! part of the Salt-water is con- geal'd or kern'd • or till a frefli Supply of it comes in again from the Sea. This Water is known to come m only at that one Paffage on the N. part of the Pond ; where alfo it is deepeft. It was at a, Spring of the New Moon when I was there ; and I was told that it comes in at no other Time but at the New Moon Spring-tides : But why that mould be I can't guefs. They who come hither to lade Salt rake it up as it kerns, and lay it in Heaps on the dry Land, before the Water breaks in a-new • And this is obfervable of this Salt-pond, "that the Salt kerns only in the dry Seafon, contrary to the Sal^ponds m the Weft. Indies, particularly thofe of •• the Ifland Sah-Tvrtuga, which! have formerly men-
tioned
and Trade, "Sn^t-boats defer ibed. 1 3
tioned [Vol.L p. 56.] for they never kern . there ^699^ till the Rains come in about April; and continue -^ ^ to do fo in May, June, July, &c. while the wet Seafon lafts ■, and not without fome good Shower of Rain firft : But the Reafon alfo of this Difference between the Salt-ponds of Mayo, and thofe of the m/i-Indies, why thefe mould kern in the wet Seafon, and the former in the dry Seafon, I mail leave to
Our°Nation drives. here a great Trade for Salt, and have, commonly a Man of War here for the Guard of our Ships and Barks that come to take it in ; of which I have been informed that in feme Years there have not been lefs than ioain a Year. It cofts nothing but Men's Labour to rake it toge- ther, and wheel it out of the Pond, except the Car- riage : And that alfo is very cheap i the Inhabitants having Plenty of Affes, for which they have little to do befides carrying the Salt from the Ponds to the Sea-fide at the Seafon when Ships are here. The Inhabitants lade and drive their Affes themfelves be- ing; very glad to be imploy'd ; for they have fcarce any other Trade but this to get a Penny by. The Pond is not above half a Mile from the Lanamg- place, fo that the Affes make a great many Trips fn a Day. Thev have a fet Number of Turns to and fro both Forenoon and Afternoon, which then- Owners will not exceed. At the Landing-place there lies a Frape-btzt, as our Seamen call it, tc .take in the Salt. . 'Tis made purpofely ^jhu IJfc, with a Deck reaching from the Stern a third Part of the Boat ? where there is a kind of Bulk-head that rifes not from the Boat's Bottom, but from the Edge of the Deck, to about 2 Foot in Heighth ; all calk d very tight. The _Ufe of it is to keep the Waves from darning into the Boat, when | lies with us Head to the Shore, to take in Salt : For nere com- monly runs a great Sea j and when the Boat lies Q
f
** Frape-^Aj- defcribed.
>»• ^9- with its Head to the Shore, the Sea breaks in over the Stern, and would foon fill it, was it not for this Bulk-head, which flops the Waves that come flowing upon the Deck, and makes them run off into the Sea on each Side. To keep the Boat thus with the Head to the Shore, and the Stern to the Sea, there are two ftrong Stantions fet up in the Boat ; the one at the Head, the other in the Middle of it agamft the Bulk-head, and a Foot higher than the Bulk-head. There is a large Notch cut in the Top of each of thefe Stantions big enough for a imall Hazer or Rope to lie in ; one End of which is faften'd to a Poll amore, and the other to a Grap- iing or Anchor lying a pretty way off at Sea : This Rope ferveth to hale the Boat in and out, and the Stantions ferve to keep her faft, fo that me cannot iwing to either Side when the Rope is hal'd tight • For the Sea would dk fill her, or tofs her amore and ftaveher. The better to prevent her Having and to keep her the tighter together, there are two Sets or Ropes more : The firft going athwart from Ounnal to Gunnal, which, when the Rowers Ben- ches are laid, bind the Boats Sides fo hard againft the Ends of the Benches that they cannot eafily fall af unaer, while the Benches and Ropes mutually help each other ; the Ropes keeping the Boat's Sides from flying off, and the Benches from being crufh'd to- gether inwards. Of thefe Ropes there are ufually but two, dividing the Boat's length, as they go a- crofs the Sides, into there equal Parts. The other Set of Ropes are more in Number, and are fo piac'd as to keep the Ribs and Planks of the Boat from ftarting off. For this Purpofe there are Holes made at certain Diilances through the Edge of the Keel that runs along on the Infide of the Boat; through which thefe Ropes paffing are laid along the Ribs, fo as to line them, or be themfelves al Ki-os upon rhem, being made faff to them by Rat- tan" s
Jtqt'ioats howmanagd. I. Mayo. Silk Cotton, i $ tan's brought thither, or fmall Cords twitted clofe f^$9$ about both Ropes and Ribs, up to the Gunnai : By ^V^ which Means tho' feveral of the Nails or Pegs of the Boat mould by any Shock fall out, yet the Ropes of thefe two Sets might hold her together : Efpe- cially with the Help of a Rope going quite round a- bout the Gunnai on the out -fide, as our Long-boats have. And fuch is the Care taken to ftrengthen the Boats-, from which girding them with Ropes, which our Seamen call / raping, they have the Name of Frape-boats. Two Men fuffice to hale her in and out, and take in the Salt from Shore (which is brought in Bags J and put it out again. As foon as the Boat is brought nigh enough to the Shore, he who Hands by the Bulk-head takes inftantly a turn with the Hazer about the Bulk-head-Stantion •, and that flops her faft before the Sea can turn her afide : And when the two Men have got in their Lading, they hale off to Sea, till they come a little without the Swell ; where they remove the Salt into another Boat that carries it on board the Ship. Without fuch a Frape-bozt here is but bad Landing at any Time : For tho' 'tis commonly very fmooth in the Road, yet there falls a great Sea on the Shore, fothat every Ship that comes here mould have fuch a Boat, and bring, or make, or borrow one of other Ships that happe'n to be here ; for the Inhabitants have none. I have been thus particular in the Defcription of thefe Fr^-boats, becaufe of the Ufe they may be of in , any Places where a great Sea falls in upon the Shore : as it doth efpecially in many open Roads in the Eaft and Weft-Indies £ where they might therefore be very ferviceable •, but I never faw any of them there.
The Ifland Mayo is generally barren, being dry, as I faid ; and the beft of it is but a very indifferent Soil. The fandy Bank that pens in the Salt-pond hath a Sort of Silk Cotton growing upon it, and a Plant that runs along 'upon the Ground, branching
out
f
16 Silk and other Cotton. Soil of I. Mayo.' Jin. 1699. out like a Vine, but with thick broad Leaves. The ^^v^- Silk-Cotton grows on tender Shrubs, 3 or 4 Foot high, in Cods as big as an Apple, but of a long Shape ; which when ripe open at one End, parting Jeifurely into 4 Quarters ; and at the firft opening the Cotton breaks forth. It may be of ufe for fluff- ing of Pillows, or the like ; but elfe is of no Value, any more than that of the great Cotton-tree. I took of thefe Cods before they were quite ripe, and laid them in my Cheft ; and in 2 or 3 Days they would open and throw out the Cotton. Others I have bound fail with Strings, fo that the Cod could not open ; and in a few Days after, as foon as I flackned the String never fo little, the Cod would burft, and the Cotton fly out forceably, ac a very little Hole, juil as the Pulp out of a roafting Apple, till all has been out of the Cod. I met with this Sort of Cotton afterwards at Timor (where ic was ripe in November) and no where dk in all my Travels ; but I found two other Sorts of Silk-cot- ton at Brazil, which I ihall there defcribe. The right Cotton-fhrub grows here alfo, but not on the Sand-bank. I faw fome Bullies of it near the Shore ; but the molt of it is planted in the Middle of the Jfle, where the Inhabitants live, Cotton-cloth being their chief Manufacture ; but neither is there any great Store of this Cotton. There alfo are fome Trees within the Ifland, but none to be feen near the Sea-fide • .nothing but a few Bufhes fcattering up and down againft the Sides of the adjacent Hills ; tor, as I faid before, the Land is pretty high from the Sea. The Soil is for the moft part either a Sort of Sand, or loofe crumbling Stone, without any freih Water Ponds or Streams, to moiilen it -, but only Showers in the Wet-feafon, which run off as faft as they fall ; except a fmall Spring in the Mid- dle of the I fie, from which proceeds a little Stream of Water that runs through a Valley between the
Hills.
Towns, &c. Guinea- Hens defer ibed. 17
Hills. There/ the Inhabitants, live in three fmall^». 1699* Towns, having a Church and Padre in each Town : -^"V'NJ And thefe Towns, as I was inform'd, are 6 or 7 Miles from the Road. Pinofe is faid to be the chief Town, and to have 2. Churches : St. John's the next ; and the third Lagoa. The Houfes are very mean'; fmall, low Things. They build with Fig-tree j here being, as I was told, no other Trees fit to build with. The Rafters are a Sort of wild Cane. The Fruits of this Ifle are chiefly Figs, and Water- Melons. / They have alfo Callavances fa Sort of Pulfe like French BeansJ and Pumpkins, for ordina- ry Food. The Fowls are Flamingo's, Great Cur- lews, and Guinea-Hens ; which the Natives of thofe. Iflands call Gallena Pintata, or the Painted Hen ; but in Jamaica, where I have fee-n alfo thofe Birds in the dry Savannah's and Woods, (for they love to run about in fuch Places J they are call'd Guinea- 1
Hens. They feem to be much of the Nature of Par- tridges. They are bigger than our Hens, have long Legs, and will run apace. They can fly too, but not far, having large heavy Bodies, and but Ihort Wings and ihort Tails : As I have generally obferved that Birds have feldom long Tails unleis fuch as fly much ; in which their Tails are ufually ferviceable to their turn- ing about, as a Rudder to a Ship or Boat. Thefe Birds have thick and ftrong, yet fharp Bills, pretty long Claws, and ihort Tails. They feed on the Ground, either on Worms, which they find by tearing open the Earth ; or on Graihoppers, which are plentiful here. The Feathers of thefe. Birds are fpeckled with dark and light Grey •, the Spots fo regular and uniform, that they look more beautiful than many Birds that are deck'd with gayer Feathers. Their Necks are fmall and long ; their Heads alfo but little. The Cocks have a fmall Rifing on their Crowns, like a Sort of a Comb. 'Tis of the Co- lour of a dry Wallnut-fhell, and very hard. They
C ft ' ^ave
m
1 8 Birds &nd Beafts of I Mayo.^
'An. 1699. have a fmall red Gill on each fide of their Heads* VV^ like Ears, ftrutting out downwards ; but the Hens have none. They are fo fbrong that one cannot hold them ; and very hardy. They are very good Meat, tender, and lweet ; and in fome the Flefh. is extraordinary white-, tho' fome others have black Flefh : But both Sorts are very good. The Natives take them with Dogs, running* them down whene- ver they pleafe ; for here are Abundance of them. You mail fee 2 or 300 in a Company. I had fe- veral brought aboard alive, where they throve ve- ry well ; fome of them 1 6 or 18 Months ; when they began to pine. When they are taken young they will become tame like our Hens. Ttla&'Flamin- go's I have already defcrib'd at large, [Vol. I. p. 79.] They have alfo many other Sort of Fowls, mz. Pidgeons and Turtle-doves ; Miniota's, a Sort of Land-fowls as big as Crows, of a grey Colour, and good Food ; Crufia% another Sort of grey- colour' d Fowl almoft as big as a Crow, which are only feen in the Night, (probably a Sort of Owls) and are faid to be good for confumptive People, but eaten by none elfe. Rabek's, a Sort of large grey eatable Fowls with long Necks and Legs, not unlike Herons -, and many Kinds of fmall Birds,
Of Land- Animals, here are Goats, as I faid for- merly, and AfTes good Store. When I was here before they were laid to have had a great many Bulls and Cows : But the Pirates, who have fince miferably infefled all thefe Iflands, have much lef- fen'd the Number of thofe ; not Having fpar'd the Inhabitants themfelves : for at my being there this Time the Governor of Mayo was but newly return'd from being a Prifoner among them, they having ta- ken him away, and carried him about with them for a Year or two.
The
Fijh, and laying of Turtle, The Nat. of I. Mayo. 1 9
The Sea is plentifully ftock'd with Fifh of divers 4»- lfy& Sorts, viz. Dolphins, Boneta's, Mullets, Snappers, ^^T^ Silver- fifh, Gar-fifh, &c. and here is a good Bay to hale a Sain or Net in. I hal'd mine feveral Times, and to good Purpofe ; dragging amore at one Time 6 Dozen of great Fifh, moft of them large Mullets of a Foot and a half or 'two Foot long. Here are aifo Porppfes, and a fmall Sort of Whales, that commonly vifit this Road every Day. I have already faid, [Vol. I. p. 75.] That the Months of May, June, July and Augufi, (that is, the wet Sea- Ion) are the Time when the green Turtle come hi- ther, and go afhore to lay their Eggs. I look up- on it as -a Thing worth taking Notice of, that the Turtle fhould always, both in North and South La- titude, lay their Eggs in .the wet Months. It might he thought, confidering what great Rains there are then in fdme Places where thefe Creatures lay, that their Eggs fhould be fpoiled by them. But the Rain, tho' violent, is foon" foaked up by the Sand, wherein the Eggs are buried ; and perhaps finks not fo deep into it as the Eggs are laid : And keeping down the Heat may make the Sand hotter below than it was before* like a Hot-bed. Whatever the Eeafon may be why Providence determines thefe Creatures to this Seafon of laying their Eggs, ra- ' ther than the dry, in Fact it is fo, as I have con- frantly obferv'd ; and that not only with the Sea- Turtle, but with all other Sorts of amphibious Ani- . mals that hiy Eggs •, asCrocodils, Alligators, Gua- | no's, Z3c. The Inhabitants of this Ifland, even their Governour and Padre's, are all Negro's, Wool-pated like their African- Neighbours ; from whom 'tis like they are defcerided •, tho' being Sub- jects to the Portugeuze, they have their Religion and Language. They are ftout, lufty, well-limb'd People, both Men and Women, fat and flefhy ; and they and their Children as round and plump as ' . C 2 • little.
w
20 Employments of the Natives]
f^Ll699- little Porpofes •, tho' the Ifland appears fo barren •"^v^-* to a Stranger as fcarce to have Food for its In- habitants. I inquired how many People there might be on the Ifle ; and was told by one of the Padre's that here were 230 Souls in all. The Negro-Gover- nour has ftis Patent from. the Portugueze Governour of St. Jago. He is a very civil and fenfible poor Man •, and they are generally a good Sort of People. He expects a fmall Prefent from every Commander that lades Salt here ; and is glad to be invited aboard their Ships. He fpends moft of -his Time with the Englijh in the Salting Seafon, which is his Harveft ; and indeed, all the Slanders are then fully employed in getting fomewhat; for they have no VerTels of their own to trade with, nor do any Portugueze-Vef- fels come hither : fcarce any but Englifh, on whom they depend for Trade : and tho' Subjects of Portu- gal, have a particular Value for us. We don't pay them for their Salt, but for the Labour of them- felves and their Beafts in lading it : for which we give them Victuals, fome Money, and old Cloaths, viz. Hats, Shirts, and other Cloaths : By which Means many of them are indifferently well rigg'd ; but fome of them go almoft naked. When the Tur- tle-feafon comes in they watch the Sandy-bays in the Night to turn them ; and having fmall Huts at particular Places on the Bays to keep them from the Rain, and to deep in : And* this is another Har- veft they have for Food ; for by Report there come l a great many Turtle to this and the reft of the Cape Vera1 Iflands, When the Turtle Seafon is over they have little to do, but to hunt for Guinea-Hens, and manage their fmall Plantations. But by thefe Means they have all the Year fome Employment or other ; whereby they get a Subfiftence, tho' but little eKe. When any of them are defirous to go over to St, Jago they get a Licence from the Governour, and de- ike Paftage in any Englijh Ship that is going thither :
And
jffes. I St. Jago; Pray a.' . , 21
And indeed all Ships that lade Salt here will be ob- An^J%99° liged to touch at St Jago for Water, for here at ^^ the Bay is none, not fo much as for drinking'. 'Tis true there is a fmall Well of brackifh Water not half a Mile from the Landing-place, which the Af- fes that carry Salt drink at ; but 'tis very bad Wa- ter. A fifes themfelves area Commodity in fqme of thefe Iflands, feveral of our Ships coming hither purpofely to freight with them, and carry them to Barbadoes and our other Plantations. I ftay'd at Mayo 6 Days, and got 7 or 8 Ton of Salt aboard for my Voyage : In which Time there came alfo in- to this Road feveral Sail of Merchants Ships for Salt *, all bound with it for Newfoundland,
The 19th Day of February, at about One a Clock in the Morning I weighed from Mayo-Road., in or- der to water at St.. Jago, Which was about 5 or 6 Leagues ta the Weftward. We coafted along the ftland Si, Jago, and pall by the Port on the Eaft of it, Imention'd formerly [Vol. I. p. 76-] which they call Praya; where fome Englijh outward-bound Eaft- India Mm ftill touch, but not fo many of them as heretofore. We faw the Fort upon the Hill, the Houfes and Coco-nut Trees : But I would not go in to anchor here, becaufe I expecled better Water on the S. W. of .the Ifland, at St. Jago Town. By 8 a Clock in the Morning we faw the Ships in that Road, being within 3 Leagues of it : But were forc'd to keep Turning many Hours to get in, the Flaws of Wind coming fo uncertain •, as they do efpecial- ly to the Leeward of Iflands that are high Land. At length two Portugueze Boats came off to help tow us in -, and about 3 a Clock in the Afternoon we came to an Anchor \ and took the Profpect of the Town, [Table H.- N°. 5.] We found here, befides two. Portugueze- Ships bound for Brazil, whofe Boats had tow'd us in, an Englijh Pink that had taken in Af- fes at one of the* Cafe Verd Iflands3 and was bound
r
2 2 7J&* ^. arrives at St. Ja. T. St. Ja. T. described. rAn. 1699. to Barbadoes with them. Next. Morning I went & ^VV fhore with my OiEcers to the Governour, who treat- ed us with Sweet-meats : I told him, the Occafion of my coming was chiefly for Water •, and that I defired alfo to take in fome Refreshments of Fowls,' &c. He faid I was welcome, and that he would or- der the Townfmen to bring their Commodities to a certain Houfe, where I might purchafe what I had occafion for : I told him I had not Money, but would exchange fome of the Salt which I brought from Mayo for their Commodities. He reply'd, that Salt was indeed an acceptable Commodity with the poor People, but that if I defign'd to buy any Cat- tle, I muft.give Money for them. I contented my felf with taking in Dunghill Fowls : The Governour ordering a Cryer to go about the Town and give Notice to the People, that they might repair to fuch a Place with Fowls and Maiz for feeding them, Where they might get Salt in Exchange for them i So I fent on Board for Salt, and order'd fome of my Men to truck the fame for the Fowls and Maiz, While the reft of them Were bufy in filling of Water. This is the Eilecl of their keeping no Boats of their own on the feveral Iflands, that they are glad to buy even their own Salt of Foreigners, for want of being able to tranfport it themfelves from Ifland to Ifland,
$r, Jago Town lies on the S. W. part of the Ifland, in Lat, about 1 5 beg. N. and is the Seat of the Ge> fieral GoverriOii r, and of the Bifhop of all the Cape Verd Iflands.. This Town flands fcattering againft the Sides of two Mountains, between which there is a deep Valley, which is about 200 Yards wide a^ gainft the Sea \ but within a quarter of a Mile it do- te up fo as not to be 40 Yards wide. In the Valley, by the Sea, there is a ftraggling Street, Houfes on each Side, and a Run of Water in the Bottom, which empties it fe]f into a Erie fmall Cove or fandy Bay,
where
Natives of St. Jago. Sugar. Wine. Fruits] if
where the Sea is commonly very fmooth ; fo that -^/^9* here is good Watering and good Landing at any ^OTNJ Time i tho' the Road be rocky and bad for Ships. Juft by the Landing-place there is a fmall Fort, al- moft level with the Sea, where is always a Court of Guard kept. * On the Top of the Hill, above the Town, there is another Fort ; which, by the Wall that is to be feen from the Road, feems to be a large Place. They have Cannon mounted there, but how many know I not: Neither what ufe that Fort can be of, except it be for Salutes. The Town may confift of 2 or 3 oo Houfes, all built of rough Stone j ■ having alfo one Convent, and one Church.
The People in general are black, or at leaf! of a . mixt Colour, except only fome few of the better Sort, viz. the Governour, the Bifhop, fome Gen- tlemen, and fome of the Padres ; for fome of thefe alfo are black. The People about Praya are Thievifh ; but thefe of St. J ago Town, living under their Governour's Eye, are more orderly, tho* ge- nerally poor, having little Trade : Yet befides chance Ships of other Nations, there come hither a Portugueze Ship or two every Year, -in their way to Brazil. Thefe vend among them a few European Commodities, and take of their principal Manufa- ctures, viz. ftriped Cotton-cloth, which they carry with them to Brazil. Here is alfo another Ship comes hither from Portugal for Sugar, their other Manufacture, and returns with it directly thither : For 'tis reported that there are feveral fmall Sugar- works on this Ifland, from which they fend home near ioo Ton every Year •, and they have Plenty of Cotton growing up in the Country, wherewith they cloath themfelves, and fend alfo a great deal to Brazil. They have Vines, of which they make fome Wine ; but the Eoropean Ships furnifh them with bet- ter-, tho5 they drink but little of any. Their chief Fruits are, (befides Plantains in Abundance; O- . C 4 ranges.
24 Cuftard-<^&. PapaPh
r^i699.rangeSj Lemons, Citrons, Melons, (both Musk and Y^ "Water-melons) Limes, Guava's, Pomegranates Quinces, Cuftard-Apples, and Papah's, &c.
■m The Cuftard- Apple fas 'we call it) is a Fruit as big -as a Pomegranate, and much of the fame Colour. The out-fide Husk, Shell or Rind, is/or Subftance and Thicknefs between the Shell of a Pomegranate, and the Peel of a &w7-Orange ; fofter than this, yet more brittle than that. The Coat or Covering . is alfo remarkable in that it is befet round with fmall ' regular Knobs or Rifings ; and the ftifide of the
■ Fruit is full of a white foft Pulp, fweet and very pleafant, and moll refembling a Cuftard of any Thing, both in Colour and Tafte ; from whence probably it is called a Cuftard-Apple by our Englljh. It has in the Middle a few fmall black Stones or Kernels •, but no Core, for 'tis all Pulp. The Tree that bears this Fruit is about the Bignefs of a Quince- tree, with long, fmall, and thick-fet Branches fpread much abroad : At the Extremity of here and there one of which the Fruit grows upon a Stalk of its own about 9 or 10 Inches long, (lender and tough, and hanging down with its own Weight. A large Tree of this Sort does not bear ufually above 20 or 30 Ap- ples j feldom more. This Fruit grows in moft Coun-
• tries within the Tropicks. I have feen of them ftho' I omitted the Defcription of them before; all over the ■Weft-Indies, both Continent and Iflands ; as alfo in Brazil, and in the Eaft-Indies.
The Pa pah too is found in all thefe Countries, though 1 have not hitherto defcrib'd it. It is a Fruit about the Bignefs of a Musk-Melon, hollow as that
. is, and much refembling it in Shape and Colour, : both Outfide andlnfide: Only in the Middle, hv ftead of flat Kernels, which the Melons have, thefe have a handful of fmall blackifh Seeds, about the Bignefs of Pepper-corns ; whofe Tafte is -alfo hot on the Tongue fomewhat like Pepper. The Fruit it
• felf
Papah/ Beafts of St. Jago. Animals of St. Jago: 2 5
felf is fweet, foft and lufcious, when ripe; but^»^99j while green 'tis hard and unfavory : tho' even then ^">f>* being boiled and eaten with Salt-pork or Beef, it ferves inftead of Turnips, and is as much efteemed. The Papah-Tree is about 1 o or 1 2 Foot high. The Body near the Ground may be a Foot and an half or 2 Foot Diameter ; and it grows up tapering to the Top. It has no Branches at all, but only large Leaves growing immediately upon Stalks from the Body. The Leaves are of a roundifh Form andjagg'd about the Edges, having their Stalks or Stumps long- er or fhorter as they grow near to or further from the Top. They begin to fpring from out of the Body of the Tree at about 6 or 7 Foot heightli from the Ground, the Trunk being bare below : But above that the Leaves grow thicker and larger ftill towards its Top, where they are clofe and broad. The Fruit grows only among the Leaves ; and thickeft among the thickeft of them -, infomuch that towards the Top of the Tree the Papahs fpring forth from its Body as thick as they can flick one by another. But then lower down, where the Leaves are thinner, .the Fruit is larger, and of the Size I have defcrib'd : And at the Top, where they are^ thick, they are but fmall, and no bigger than ordi- nary Turnips ; yet tailed like the reft.
'Their chief Land- Animals are their ' Bullocks, which are faid to be many ; tho' they ask us 20 Dol- lars apiece for them •, They have alfo Horfes, AfTes, and Mules, Deer, Goats, Hogs, and black-fac'd long-tail'd Monkeys. Of. Fowls they have Cocks and Hens, Ducks, Guinea-Hens, both tame and wild, Parrakites, Parrots, Pidgeons, Turtle-Doves, He- rons, Hawks, Crab-catchers, Galdens fa larger Sort of Crab-catchers) Curlews, &c. Their Fifli is the fame as at Mayo and the reft of thefe Wands, and for the moft part thefe Iflands have the fame Beafts and Birds alfo ; But forne of the liles have Paftu- •• : rage
26
Its Road. I. Fogo.
rAn. 1699. rage and Employment for fome particular Beafts
W^ more than other -, and the Birds are incourag'd,
by Woods for Shelter, and Maiz and Fruits for
Food, to flock rather to fome of the Iflands (as to
this of St. Jago) than to others.
^..JagQ Road is one of the worft that I have been in. There is 'not clean Ground enough for a- bove three Ships; and thofe alfo mull lye very near each other. One even of thefe muft lye clofe to the Shore, with a^Land-faft there .:. And that is the beft for a fmall Ship. I mould not have come, in here if I had not been told that it was a good fecure Place -, but I found it fo much otherways, that I was in Pain to be gone. Captain Barefoot, who , came to an Achor while I was here, in foul Ground, loft quickly 2 Anchors \ and I had loft a fmall one. The-Ifland Fogo fhews its felf from this Road very plain, at about 7 or 8 Leagues diftance ; and in the Night we faw the Flames of Fire ilTuing from its Top.
CHAP.
The Contents. The A, depgns jot Brazil.
27
An. 1699.
CHAP, II.
he A's Deliberation on the Sequtlof his Voyage, and Departure from St. Jago. His Courfe, and the Winds, Uc. in cr-offing the Line. He fianixaway for the Bay of All-Saints in Brazil; and why. His Arrival on that Coafi and in the Bay. Of the fede- ral Forts, the Road, Situation, Town, and Buildings of Bahia; O/ its Governour, Ships and Merchants ; and Commodities to and from Europe. Claying of Sugar. The Sea/on for the Euro- pean Ships, and Coire Cables : Of their Guinea-frW*. and of the Coafling-trade, and Whale-killing. Of the Inhabitants of Ba- hia ; their carrying in Hammocks ; their Artificers, Crane jot Goods, and Negro-Slaves, Of the Country about Bahia, its Soil and Producl. Its Timber trees', the Sapiera, Vermiatico, Comeflerie, Guitteba, Serrie, and Mangroves. The Baflard- Coco, its Nuts and Cables-, and the Sil^-Cotton-trees. The Bra- filian Fruits, Oranges, Sec. Of the Sour-fops, Cafiiew's, and Jennipah's. Of their peculiar Fruits, Arifah's, Merieafah's, Petango's, Petumbo's, Mungaroo's, Muckiftiaws, Ingwa's, Otee's, and Mufteran de ova s. Of the Palm-berries, phyftck- nutst Mendibee's, &c and their Roots and Herbs, &e. Of their Wild-Fowl, Maccaws, Parrots, &c. fkYemraa, Carri* en-crow, and Chattering-crow, Bill-bird, Currefo, Turtle dove and Wild-pigeons; the jenetee, Clocking-hen, Crab catcher. Golden, and black Heron: The Ducks, Wigeon and Teal; and Ofirtches to the Southward, and of the Dunghill fowls. Of their Cattle, Horfes, &c. Leopards and Tigers. Of their Ser- pents; the Rattle-Snake, fmall Green-Sna\e, Amph'isbsena, fmall black and fmall Grey-Snake ; the great Zand, and the great Water- Snake : And of the Water -dog. Of their Sea-fifh and turtle ; and of St. Paul's Town. ■
HAving diipatch'd my fmall Affairs at the C, Verd Iflands, I meditated on the Procefs of my Voyage. I thought it requifite to touch once more at a cultivated Place in thefe Seas, where my Men might be refrefh'dj and might have a Market wherein to furnim themfelves with Neceffaries : For defigning that my next Stretch mould be quite to JV. Holland, and knowing that after fo long a Run nothing was to be expected there but frefh Water, if I could meet even with that there, I refolved up- on
i
f
■
-
2S The A. departs from St. Jago.
^0. 1699.cn putting in firft at fome Port of 'Brazil, and to >^VNa' provide my felf there with whatever I might have further Occafion for.' Befide the refreshing and fur- ' mfhing: my Men, I aim'd alfo at the inuring them gradually and by Intervals to the Fatigues that were, to be expecled in the Remainder of the Voyage, which was to be in a part of the World they were altogether Strangers to ; none of them, except two young Men, having ever crofs'd the Line,
With this Defign I fail'd from St. Jago on the 2 2d of February, with the Winds at E. N. E and N. E. fair Weather, and a brisk Gale. We fleered away S.^ E. and S. S. E. half Eaft, till in the Lat. of 7 deg. 50. min. we met with many Riplings in the Sea like a Tide or ftrong Current, which fetting againft the Wind caus'd fuch a Ripling. We con- tinu'.d to meet thefe Currents from that Lat. till we came into the Lat of 3 deg. 22 N. when they ceafed. During this Time we faw fome Boneta's, and Sharks -, catching one of thefe. We had the true general Trade -Wind blowing frefh at N. E. till in the Lat. of 4 deg. 40 min. N. when the Wind varied, and we had fmall Gales, with fome Tornadoes. We were then to the Eaft of St. Jago 4 deg. 54 min. when we got into Lat. 3 deg. 2 min. N. (where I faid the Ripling ceas'd^) and Long, to the Eaft of St. Jago 5 deg. 2 min. we had the Wind whiffling between the S. by E. and E. by N. fmall Gales, fre- quent Calms, very black Clouds, with much Rain. In the Lat. of 3 deg. 8 min, N, and Long. E. from St. Jago 5 deg. 8 min. we had the Wind from the S. S. E. to the N. N. E. faint, and often interrup- ted with Calms. While we had Calms we had the Opportuity of trying the Current we had met with hitherto, and found that.it fet'N. E. by E. half a •• Knot, which is 12 Mile in 24 Hours : So that here it ran at the Rate of half a Mile an Hour, and had been much ftronger before* The R^ins held us
by
The A. crops the Line:
29
by Intervals till the Lat. of 1 deg. o min. N. with rfij. 1699; fmall Gales of Wind between S. S. E. and S. E. by ^V*V E. and fometimes calm : Afterwards we had the Wind between the S. andS. S. ?. till we crofs'd the Line, fmall Winds, Calms, and pretty fair Wea- ther. We faw but. few Fifh befide Porpofes j but . of them a great many, and flruck one of them.
It was the 10th of March, about the Time of the Equinox, when we crofs'd the Equator, having had all along from the Lat. of 4 deg. 40 min. N where the true Trade-Wind left us, a great Swell out ot the S. E. and but fmall uncertain Gales, rhoftly Southerly, fo that we crept to the Southward but (lowly. I kept up againft thefe as well as I could ^ the Southward, and when we had now and then a Flurry of Wind at E. I ftill went away due South, purpofely to get to the Southward as faft as I could ; for while near the Line I expe&ed to have but uncer- tain Winds, frequent Calms, Rains, Tornadoes, fcfr. which would not only retard my Courfe, but endanger Sicknefs alfo among my Men : efpecially thofe who were ill provided with Cloaths, or were too lazy to fhift themfelves when they were drench'd with the Rains. The Heat of the Weather made them carelefs of doing this j but taking a Dram of Brandy, which I gave them when wet, with a Charge to fhift- themfelves, they would however lye down in their Hammocks with their wet Cloaths ; fo that when they turn'd out they caus'd an ill Smell where-eyer they came, and their Hammocks would ftink fufficiently -, that I think the remedying of this is worth the Care of Commanders that crofs the Hne\ efpecially 'when they are, it may be, a Month or more e'er they get out of the Rains, at fometimes of the Year, as. in June, July, or Am tuft..
What
lo Obfervations for cr offing the Line. The A.
'Jn. 1699. What I have here faid about the Currents, Winds, ^^ Calms, &c. in this Paffage, is chiefly for the farther Illuftration of what I have heretofore obferv'd in ge- nera! about thefe Matters, and efpecially as to croffing the Line, in my Difcourfe of the Winds, &c„ in the horrid Zone:. [See Vol. II, Part 3. p. 5, 6.] Which Obfervations I have had very much con- firmed to me in the Courfe of this Voyage ; and I fhall particularize in feveral of the chief of them as they come in my Way. And indeed I think I may fay this of the main of the Obfervations in that ^reatije, that the clear Satisfaction I had about them, and how much I might rely upon them, was a great Eafe to my Mind during this vexatious Voyage ; wherein the Ignorance, and Obftinacy withal, of fome under me, occafion'd me a great deal of Trou- ble: Tho" they found all along, and were often fore'd to acknowledge it, that I was feldom out in my Conjectures, when T told them ufually before- hand what Winds, &c. we Ihould meet with at fuch or fuch particular Places we mould come at. Pernambuc was the Port that I defigned for at my . firft fetting out from St. J. ago ; it being a Place'moft proper for my Purpofe, by Reafon of its Situation, lying near the Extremity of C. St. Augufiine, the ■Eafternmoft Promontory of Brazil ; by which means it not only enjoys the greater Benefit of the Sea-breezes, and is confequendy more healthy than other Places to the Southward, but is withal lefs fub- jectto the Southerly Coafting- Trade-winds, t,hatblow half the Year on this Shore .; which were now draw- ing on, and might be troublefome to me : So that I might both hope to reach fooneft Pernambuc, as t moil directly and neareft in my Run *, and might
rhence a'lfo more eafily get away to the Southward than from Babia de Taaos los Santos^ or Ria Ja- neira.
But
defignsforVtt. andwhy he quitted that *Defign. 31
But notwithftanding thefe Advantages I propos'd^». 1699; to my felf in going to Pernambuc, I was foon put ^V^ by that Defign through, the Refractorinefs of fome under me, and the Difcontents and Backwardnefs of fome of my Men. For the Calms and Shiftings of V/in-ds which I met with, as I was to expect, in croffing the Line, made them, who were unacquain- ted with thefe Matters, almoft heartlefs as to the Purfuit of the Voyage, as thinking we fhould never be able to weather Cape St. Augujtine : And though I told them that by that Time we fhould get to a- bout three Degrees South of the Line,* we fhould again have a true brisk general Trade-Wind y from the North-Eaft, that would carry us to what part of Bttfzri~wc pleas'd, yet they would not be- lieve it till they found it fo. This, with fome other unforefeen Accidents, not necefiary to be mention'd in this Place, meeting with the Averfion of my Men to a long unknown Voyage, made me juftly appre- henfive of their Revolting, and was a great Trouble and Hindrance to me. So that I was obliged partly to alter my Meafures, and met with many Difficul- ties, the Particulars of which I fhall not trouble the Reader with : But I mention thus much of it in ge- neral for my own neceffary Vindication, in my ta- king fuch Meafures fometimes for profecuting the Voyage as the State of my Ships Crew, rather than my own Judgment and Experience, determin'd me to. The Disorders of my Ship made me think at prefent that P&mambuc would not be fo fit a Place for me -, being told that Ships ride there 2 or 3 Leagues from theTown, under the Command of no Forts j fo that whenever I fhould have been a- Jhore it might have been eafy for my difcontented Crew to nave cut or dipt their Cables, and have gone away from me: Many of them difcovering already an intention to return to England^ and fome of them- declaring openly that they would go no further on-
. wards
He refolvesfor the B. of A\l~St$. Arrival at BrazJ
rAn. 1699. wards than Brazil. I alter'd my'Courfe therefore, sy^)T^' and ftood away for Bahlo de todos los Santos, or the; Bay of all Saints, where I«hop'd to have the Go- vernor's Help, if need fhould require, for fecu- • ring my Ship from any fuch mutinous Attempt ; be- ing forced to keep my felf all the way upon my Guard, and to lie with my Officers, fuch as I could truft, and with fmall Arms upon the Quarter-Deck ; it fcarce being fafe for me to lie in my Cabbin, by Reafon of the Difcontents among my Men.
On the 23d of March we faw the Land of Brazil ; having had'thither, from the Time when we came into the true Trade-wind again after cro fling the Line, very fair Weather and brisk Gales, moftly a& E. N. E. The Land we faw was about 20 Leagues to the North of Babia ; fo I coafted along Shore to the Southward. • This Coaft is rather low than high, with Sandy-Bays all along by the Sea.
A little within Land are many very white Spots of Sand, appearing like Snow ; and the Coaft looks, very pleafant, being checker'd with Woods and Sa^ vannahs. The Trees in general are not tall ; bufj they are green and fiourifhing.' There are many * fmall Houfes by the Sea-fide, whpfe Inhabitants are chiefly Fifhermen. They come off to Sea on Bark- logs, made of feveral Logs faften'd Side to Side, that have one or two Mafts with Sails to them.. There are two Men in each Bark-log, one at either End, having fmall low Benches, raifed a little above the Logs, to fit and fifh on, and two Baskets hang- ing up at the Maft or Mafts ; one to put their Pro-. vifions in, the other for their Fifh. Many of thefe were a-fiihing now, and 2 of them came aboard, of whom I bought fome Fifh. In the Afternoon we failed by one very remarkable Piece of Land, where, on a fmall pleafant Hill, there was a Church dedi- • cated to the Virgin Mary. See a Sight of fome Parts of this Coaft [Table III. N.1*, 1, 2, 3, 4,5^]
■■■'•"- and
*$' Sufhr of ±h*p!- Copts Wi&r,from C, Salvador
Jty-h-tjrom abutct 1 M.Jromy 'Zhrir c^b^^
Zhe. Cathedral
^drll udnchtimTia arotm.cl -within. A, 'J^xtJratn,
Bakia de todos los ^
S ail+o S Ixnvn 8C j£^rhtjur .
X>ictz>h '^arir
■x^:h ajAtrU 8C3%coy
^% tijBoirvt of yJLand,
JS.fi, gy, C. of G-,3£-t}p4 a.f 10 Z.
,- s JP§^ di/h: from, y J'rihle. Zand.
S. tJ. -LJ.
°\ (Jl) -tujfjtfutAutetnl of y l&thle. JroneL, at a.tmctj}Z. dijl Eb.^Ti-JS from -th-e. 3*dble. "
X.S.Z.
The Author anchor d at Bahia de T. S.
3 3
and of the Hill the Church ftands on [Table III. *»• »6?9«
NM.] ( ^^
I coafted along till the Evening, and then brought to, and lay by till the next Morning. A- bout 2 Hours after we were brought to, there came a Sail out of the Offin (from Seaward) and lay by about a Mile to Windward of us, and fo lay all Night. In the Morning upon fpeaking with her, fhe proved to be a Portugueze Ship bound to Bahia ; therefore I fent my Boat aboard and defired to have one of his Mates to Pilot me in : He anfwer'd, that he had not a Mate capable of it, but that he would fail in before me, and fhew me the way ; and that if he went into the Harbour in the Night, he would hang out a Light for me. He faid we had not far in, and might reach it before Night with a tolerable Gale ; but that with fo fmall an one as now we had we could not do it : So we jogg'd on till Night, and then he accordingly hung out his Light, which we fleered after, founding as we went in. I kept all my Men on Deck, and had an An- chor ready to let go on occafion. We had the Tide of Ebb againft us, fo that we went in but flowly ; and it was about the Middle of the Night when we anchor'd. Immmediately the Portugueze Mailer came aboard to fee me, to whom I returned Thanks for his Civilities ; and indeed I found much Refpect, not only from this Gentleman, but from all of that Nation both here and in other Places, who were ready to ferve me on all Occafions. The Place that we anchored in was about two Miles from the Harbour where the Ships generally ride t but the Fear I had left my People fhouldsrun away with the Ship, made me haften to get a Licence from the Governour, to run up into the Harbour, and ride among their Ships, dole by one of their Forts. So on the 25th of March about 10 a Clock in the Morning, the Tide ferving, I went thither, being Vol. III. D piloted
34 Bahia Harbour and Fortf.
rAn. 169$. piloted by the Super-intendant there, whofe Bufinefs ^"Y^ it is to carry up all the King of Portugal's Ships that come hither, and to fee them well moored. He brought us to an Anchor fight againft the Town, at the outer Part of the Harbour, which was then full of Ships, within 150 Yards of a fmall Fort that ftands on a Rock half a Mile from the Shore. . See a Profpect of the Harbour and the Town, as it ap- pear'd to us while we lay at Anchor, [Table III.
No. 5-1 , . Bahia ie todos los Santos lies in Lat. 13. deg. S. It is the moft confiderable Town in Brazil, whether in Refpett of the Beauty of its Buildings, its Bulk, or its Trade and Revenue. It has the Convenience of a good Harbour that is capable of receiving Ships of the greateft Burthen : The Entrance of which is guarded with a ftrong Fort {landing without the Harbour, call'd St, Antonio : A Sight of which I have given [Table III. N°. 4.] as it appeared to us the Afternoon before we came in ; and its Lights (which they hang out purpofely for Ships) we faw the fame Night. There are other fmaller Forts that command the Harbour, one of which ftands on a Rock in the Sea, about half a Mile from the Shore* Clofe by this Fort all Ships muft pafs that anchor here, and muft ride alfo within half a -Mile of it at fartheft between this and another Fort (that ftands on a Point at the inner part of the Harbour and is called the Dutch Fort) but muft ride neareft to the former, all along againft the Town : Where there is good holding Ground, and lefs expofed to the Sou - therly Winds that blow very hard here. They com- monly fet in about April, but blow hardeft in May, June, July and Augufi : But the place where the Ships ride is expofed to thefe Winds not above 3 Points of the Compafs.
Befide
Bahia Town defcribect.
35
Befide thefe, there is another Fort fronting xhzAn. 1699; Harbour, and Handing on the Hill upon which the ^OT^** Town ftands. The Town it felf confifts of about 2000 Houfes ; the major part of which cannot be feen from the Harbour ; but fo many as appear in Sight^ with a great Mixture of Trees between them, and all placed on a rifing Hill, make a very pleafant Profpect j as may be judg'd by the Draught, [Ta- ble III. N°. 5.]
There are in the Town 13 Churches, Chapels, Hofpitals, Convents, befide one Nunnery ^ viz. the Ecclefia Major or Cathedral, the Jefuits College, which are the chief, and both in Sight from the Har- bour : St. Antonio, Sta. Barbara, both Parifh- Cnurches ; the Francifians Church, and the Domini- cans \ and 2 Convents of Carmelites ; a Chapel for Seamen clofe by the Sea-fide, where Boats common- ly land, and the Seamen go immediately to Prayers ; another Chapel for poor People, at the farther End of the fame Street, which runs along by the Shore ; and a third Chapel for Soldiers, at the Edge of the Town remote from the Sea ; and an Hofpital in the Middle of the Town. The Nunnery ftands at the outer-edge of the Town next the Fields, wherein by- Report there are 70 Nuns. Here lives an Arch-bi- fhop, who has a fine Palace in the Town ; and the Governor's Palace is a fair Stone-building, and looks handfome to the Sea, tho' but indifferently furnifh'd within : Both Spaniards and Portugueze in their Plan- tations abroad, as I have generally obferv'd, affect- ing to have large Houfes -, but are little curious a- bout Furniture, except Pictures fome of them, The Houfes of the Town are 2 or 3 Stories high, the Walls thick and ftrong, being built with Stone, with a Covering of Pantile •, and many of them have Balconies. The principal Streets are large, and all of them pav'd or pitch'd with fmall Stones. There are alfo Parades in the mod eminent Places
D 2 of
— —
The Govern. Sold, and Merchants of Bahia?
^i^99- of the Town, and many Gardens, as well within ^sy^ the Town as in the Out-parts of it, wherein are Fruit-trees, Herbs, Salladings and Flowers in great Variety, but order'd with no great Care nor Art.
The Governour who refideshere is call'd Don John de Lancaflrio, being defcended, as they fay, from our Englijh Lancafter Family ; and he has a Refpect for our Nation on that Account, calling them his Country-men. I waited on him feveral Times, and always found him very courteous and civil. Here are about 400 Soldiers in Garrifon. They com- monly draw up and exercife in a large Parade be* fore the Governour's Houfe ; and many of them at- tend him when he goes abroad. The Soldiers are decently clad in brown Linnen, which in thefe hot Countries is far better than Woollen ; but I never faw any clad in Linnen but only thefe. Befide the Soldiers in Pay, he can foon have fome Thoufands of Men up in Arms on occafion. The Magazine is on the Skirts of the Town, on a fmall Rifing be- tween the Nunnery and the Soldiers Church. 5Tis big enough to hold 2 or 3000 Barrels of Powder ; but I was told it feldom has more than 100, fome- times but 80. There are always a Band of Soldiers to guard it, and Centinels looking out both Day and Night.
A great many Merchants always refide at Bahia 5 for 'tis a Place of great Trade : I found here above 30 great Ships from Europe, with 2 of the King of Portugal's Ships of War for their Convoy j befide 2 Ships that traded to Africa only," either to Angola^ Gamba, or other Places on the Coaft of Guinea ; and Abundance of fmall Craft, that only run to and fro on this "Coaft, carrying Commodities from one Part of Brazil to another.
The Merchants that live here are faid to be rich, and to have many Negro-Shves in their Houfes, both of Men and Women. Themfelves are chiefly
Portugueze>
Commodities from and to E ur ope^
Portugueze, Foreigners having but little Commerce J» with them ; yet here was one Mr. Cock an Engli/h Merchant, a very civil Gentleman and of good Re- pute. He had a Patent to be our Engli/h Conful, but did not Care to take upon him any publick Cha- racter, becaufe Engli/h Ships feldom come hither, here having been none in 1 1 or 12 Years before this Time. Here was alfo a Dane, and a French Merchant or two •, but all have their Effects tranf- ported to and from Europe m Portugueze Ships, none of any other Nation being admitted to trade hither. There is a Cuftom-houfe by the Sea-fide, where all Goods imported or exported are entred. And to prevent Abufes there are 5 or 6 Boats that take their Turns to row about the Harbour, fearching any Boats they fufpect to be running of Goods.
The chief Commodities that the European Ships bring hither, are Linnen-cloaths, both coaife and fine \ fome Woollens alfo, as Bays, Searges, Per- petuana's, &k Hats, Stockings, both of Silk and Thread, Bisket-bread, Wheat-flower, Wine (chiefly Port) Oil-Olive, Butter, Cheefe, &c. and Salt-beef and Pork would there alfo be good Com- modities. They bring hither alfo Iron, and ail ' Sorts of Iron-Tools ; Pewter- VeiTels of all Sorts, as Dimes, Plates, Spoons, &c. Looking-glalTes, Beads, and other Toys > and the Ships that touch at St. Jago bring thence, as I faid, Cotton-cloath, which is afterwards fent to Angola,
The European Ships carry from hence Sugar, To- bacco, either in Roll or Snuffy never in Leaf, that I'know of: Thefe are the Staple Commodities. Be- fides which, here are Dye-woods, as Fuftick, fcfo with Woods for other Ufes, as fpeckled Wood, Brazil, &c. They alfo carry home raw Hides, Tallow, Train-Oil of Whales, &V. Here are alfo D 3 kept
3* Claying of Sugar. Sea/on for European Ships:
An. 1699. kept tame Monkeys, Parrots, Parrakites, &c. which
^*'rV>v tne Seamen carry home.
The Sugar of this Country is much better than that which we bring Home from our Plantations : For all the Sugar that is made here is clay'd, which makes it whiter and finer than our Mufcovada, as we call our unrefin'd Sugar. Our Planters feldom re- fine any with Clay, unlefs fometimes a little to fend Home as Prefents for their Friends in England. Their way of doing it is by taking fome of the whiteft Clay and mixing it with Water, till 'tis like Cream. With this they fill up the Pans of Sugar, that are funk 2 or 3 Inches below the Brim by the draining of the Moloffes out of it: Firft fcraping off the thin hard Cruft of the Sugar that lies at the Top, and would hinder the Water of the Clay from foaking through the Sugar of the Pan. The refi- ning is made by this Percolation. For 10 or 12 Days Time that the clayifh Liquor lies foaking down the Pan, the white Water whitens the Sugar as it paffes thro' it ; and the grofs Body of the Clay it felf grows hard on the Top, and may be taken off at Pleafure j when fcraping off with a Knife the very upper-part of the Sugar, which will be a little fullied, that which is underneath will be white almoft to the Bottom : And fuch as is called Brazil Su- gar is thus whiten'd. When I was here this Sugar was fold for 50 s. per 100 It. And the Bottoms of the Pots, which is very coarfe Sugar, for about 20 s. per 100 it. both Sorts being then fcarce ; for here was not enough to lade the Ships, and there- fore fome of them were to lye here till the next Seafon.
The European Ships commonly arrive here in Fe- bruary or March, and they have generally quick Paflages ; finding at that Time of the Year brisk Gales to bring them to the Line, little Trouble, then, in croffing it, and brisk E, N. E. Winds af- terwards
Gum&L-Trade. Coafting-Tradel 39
terwards to bring them hither. They commonly An, 1*99. return from hence about the latter End of May, or ^Y>^ in June. 'Twas faid when I was here that the Ships would fail hence the 20th Day of May ; and there- fore they were all very bufy, fome in taking in their Goods, others in careening and making themfelves ready. The Ships that come hither ufually careen at their firft coming -, here being a Hulk belonging to the King for that Purpofe. This Hulk is under the Charge of the Superintendent I fpoke of, who has a certain Sum of Mony for every Ship that ca- reens by her. He alfo provides Firing and other NeceflTaries for that Purpofe : And the Ships do commonly hire of the Merchants here each 2 Ca- bles to moor by all the Time they lye here, and fo fave their own Hempen Cables ; for thefe are made of a Sort of Hair, that grows on a certain Kind of Trees, hanging down from the Top of their Bodies, and is very like the black Coyre in the Eaft-Indies, if not the fame. Thefe Cables are ftrong and lad- ing : And fo much forthe European Ships.
The Ships that ufe the Gam^-Trade are fmali VefTels in Comparifon of the former. They carry out from hence Rum, Sugar, the Cotton-cloaths of St. Jago, Beads, &c. and bring in Return, Gold, Ivory, and Slaves 1 making very good Re- turns.
The fmall Craft that belong to this Town are chiefly imployed in carrying European Goods from Babia, the Center of the Brafilian Trade, to the o- ther Places on this Coaft •, bringing back hither Su- gar, Tobacco, ;&a They are failed chiefly with Negro-Slaves j and about Chriftmas thefe are moftly_ imployed in Whale-killing : For about that Time of the Year a Sort of Whales, as they call them, are very thick on this Coaft, They come in alfo into the Harbours and inland Lakes, where the Seamen go out and kill them, The Fat of them is boiled P 4 ta
40 Wh ale-Oil. Shipping:
lf^99- to Oil ; the Lean is eaten by the Slaves and poor % ^ People : And I was told by one that had frequently eaten of it, that the Flefh was very fweet and whol- iome. Thefe are faid to be but fmall Whales ; yet here are fo many, and fo eafily kill'd, that they get a great deal of Money by it. Thofe that ftrike them buy their Licence for it of the King : And I was in- form'd that he receives 30000 Dollars per Annum for this Fifliery. All the fmall VeiTels that ufe this Coaftmg Traffick are built here ; and fo are fome Men of War alfo for the King's Service. There was one a building when I was here, a Ship of 40 or 50 Guns : And the Timber of this Country is ■very good and proper for this Purpofe. J was told it was very ftrong, and more durable than any we have m Europe % and they have enough of it. As for their Ships that ufe the European Trade, fome of them that I faw there were Englijh built, taken from us by the French, during the late War, and fold by them to the Portuguese.
Befides Merchants and others that trade by Sea from this Port, here are other pretty wealthy Men, and feveral Artificers and Trades-men of moll Sorts, who by Labour and Induftry maintain themfelves very well ; efpecially fuch as can arrive at the Pur- chafe of a Negro-Slave or two. And indeed, ex- cepting People of the loweft Degree of all, here are fcarce any but what keep Slaves in their Houfes. The richer Sort, befides the Slaves of both Sexes whom they keep for ferviie Ufes in their Houfes, have Men Slaves who wait on them abroad, for State! either running by their Horfe-fides when they ride out, or to carry them to and fro on their Shoulders in the Town when they make ihort Vifits near Home. Every Gentleman or Merchant is pro- vided with Things neceffary for this Sort of Car- nage. The main Thing is a pretty large Cotton Hammock of the Weji-hdia Faftyon, but moftly
- died
damage in Hammocks. Artificers. Butchers. 41
died blue, with large Fringes of the fame, hanging ^^699. down on each Side. This is carried on the Negro's {S>iSJ Shoulders by the help of a Bambo about 12 or 14 Foot long, to which the Hammock is hung -, and a Govering comes over the Pole, hanging down on each Side like a Curtain : So that the Perfon fo car- ry'd cannot be feen unlefs he pleafes •, but may either lye down, having Pillows for his Head ; or may fit up by being a little fupported with thefe Pillows, and by letting both his Legs hang out over one Side of the Hammock. When he hath a Mind to be feen he puts by his Curtain, and falutes every one of his Acquaintance whom he meets in the Streets ; for they take a Piece of Pride in greeting one ano- ther from their Hammocks, and will hold long Con- ferences thus in the Street: But then their 2 Slaves who carry the Hammock have each a ftrong well- made Staff, with a fine Iron Fork at the upper End, and a fharp Iron below, like the Reft for a Musket, which they flick fall: in the Ground, and let the Pole or Bambo of the Hammock reft upon them, till their Mafter's Bufinefs or the Complement is over. There is fcarce a Man of any Fafhion, efpecially a Woman, will pafs the Streets but fo carried in a Hammock. The chief Mechanick Traders here, are Smiths, Hatters, Shoemakers, Tanners, Saw- yers, Carpenters, Coopers, &c. Here are alfo Taylors, Butchers, &c. which laft kill the Bullocks very dexteroufly, flicking them at one Blow with a fharp-pointed Knife in the Nape of the Neck, ha- ving firft drawn them clofe to a Rail ; but they drefs them very flovenly. It being Lent when I came hi- ther, there was no buying any Flefh till Eafter-TLve, when a great Number of Bullocks were kuTd at once in the Slaughter-houfes within the Town, Men, Women and Children flocking thither with great Joy to buy, and a Multitude of Dogs, almoft flarv'd, following them j for whom the Meat feem'd
fitteft,
Negroes; Crane for Goods.
w^'??** k was foIean' AH thefe Trades-men buy : v Negroes, and train them up to their feveral Employ- ments, which is a great HeJp to them ; and they ha- ving fo frequent Trade to Angola, and other Parts of Guinea, they have a conftant Supply of Blacks both for their Plantations and Town. Thefe Slaves are very ufeful in this Place for Carriage, as Porters *, for as here is a great Trade by Sea, and the Land- ing-place is at the Foot of a Hill, too fteep for drawing with Carts, fo there is great need of Slaves to carry Goods up into the Town, efpecially for the inferiour Sort : But the Merchants have alfo the Convenience of a great Crane that goes with Ropes or Pullies, one End of which goes up while the other goes down. The Houfe in which this Crane is, ftands on the Brow of the Hill towards the Sea, hanging over the Precipice ; and there are Planks fet fhelving againft the Bank from thence to the Bottom, againft which the Goods lean or Aide as they are hoifted up or let down. The Negro-Shves in this Town are fo numerous, that they make up the greateft Part or Bulk of the Inhabitants : Eve^ ry Houfe, as I faid, having fome, both Men and Women, of them. Many of the Portugueze, who are Batchelors, keep of thefe black Women for Miffes, tho' they know the Danger they are in of being poyfon'd by them, if ever they give them any Occafion of Jealoufy. A Gentleman of my Ac- quaintance, who had been familiar with his Cook- maid, lay under fome fuch Apprehenfions from her when I was there. Thefe Slaves alfo of either Sex will eafily be engaged to do any Sort of Mifchief ; even to Murder, if they are hired to do it, efpeci- ally in the Night ; for which Realon, I kept my Men on board as much as I could ; for one of the French King's Ships being here, had feveral Men murtfcer'd by them in the Night, as. I was credibly inform5 d.
Having
The Count, about Bahia. The Brafil. Tree s, &e. 43"
Having given this Account of the Town of Ba~An. 1699^ hia, I fhall next fay fomewhat of the Country. ^V^v There is a Salt-water Lake runs 40 Leagues, as I was told, up the Country, N. W, from the Sea, leaving the Town and Dutch Fort on the Starboard Side. The Country all around about is for the moft part a pretty flat even Ground, not high, nor yet very low : It is well water' d with Rivers, Brooks and Springs ; neither wants it for good Harbours, navigable Creeks, and good Bays for Ships to ride in. The Soil in general is good, naturally produ- cing very large Trees of divers Sorts, and fit for any Ufes. The Savannahs alfo are loaden with. Grafs, Herbs, and many Sorts of fmaller Vegeta- bles ; and being cultivated, produce any Thing that is proper for thofe hot Countries, as Sugar-Canes, Cotton, Indico, Tobacco, Maiz, Fruit-Trees of feveral Kinds, and eatable Roots of all Sorts. Of the feveral Kinds of Trees that are here, I mall give an Account of fome,-as I had it partly from an In- habitant of Bahia, and partly from my Knowledge of them otherwife, viz. Sapiera, Vermiatico, Comef- firie, Guitteba, Serrie, as they were pronounc'd to me, three Sorts of Mangrove, fpeckled Wood, Fuftickv Cot*on-Trees of 3 Sorts, &V. together with Fruit-Trees of divers Sorts that grow wild, be- fide fuch as are planted,
Of Timber-Trees, the Sapiera is faid to be large and tall ; it is very good Timber, and is made ufe of in building of Houfes ; , fo is the Vermiatico, a tall ftreight-bodied Tree, of which they make Plank 2 Foot broad -, and they alfo make Canoa's with it. Comejferie and Guitteba are chiefly ufed in building Ships ; thefe are as much efleem'd here as Oaks are in England, and they fay either Sort is harder and more durable than Oak. The Serrie is a Sort of Tree much like Elm, very durable in Water. Here are alfo all the three Sorts of Mangrove Trees, viz.
the
Baftard-Coco] Silk-Cotton. "An. 1 699: the Red, the White, and the Black, which I have *^T~ defcribed [Vol I. p. 54.] The Bark of the red Man- grove, is here us'd for tanning of Leather, and they have great Tan-pits for it. The black Mangrove grows larger here than in the Weft-Indies, and of it they make good Plank. The white Mangrove is larger and tougher than in the Weft-Indies ; of thefe they make Mails and Yards for Barks.
There grow here wild or baflard Coco-Nut Trees, neither fo large nor fo tall as the common ones in the Eaft or Weft-Indies. They bear Nuts as the o- tbers, but not a quarter fo big as the right Coco- Nuts. The Shell is full of Kernel, without any hollow Place or Water in it ; and the Kernel is fweet and wholfome, but very hard both for the Teeth and for Digeilion. Thefe Nuts are in much Efteern for making Beads for Pater nofter's, Boles of To- bacco-Pipes, and other Toys : and every fmall Shop here has a great many of them to fell. At the Top of thefe Ballard Coco-trees, among the Branches, there grows a Sort of long black Thread like Horfe- hair, but much longer, which by the Portugueze is called Trefaho. Of this they make Cables which are very fervieeable, ftrong and 1 ailing ; for they will not rot as Cables made of Hemp, tho' they ]je ex- pofed bath to Wet and Heat. Thefe are the Cables which I faid they keep in their Harbours here, to let to hire to European Ships, and refemble the Coy re- Cables.
Here are 3 Sorts of Cotton-Trees that bear Silk- Cotton. One .Sort is fuch as I have formerly de- fcrib'd, [Vol. I. p. 165.] by the Name of the Cot- ton-tree, The other 2 Sorts I never faw any where but here. The Trees of thefe latter Sorts are but fmall in Comparifon of the former, which are reck- oned the biggeft in all the Weft-India Woods -, yet are however of a good Bignefs and Heighth. One of thefe laft Sorts is not fo full of Branches as the
other
Cotton-Tree of Brafil. Silk-Cotton. Cotton. 45
other of them ; neither do they produce their Fruit An. 1699: the fame Time of the Year : For one Sort had its ^"V^W Fruit juft ripe, and was fhedding its Leaves while the other Sort was yet green, and its Fruit fmall and growing, having but newly done bloffommg ; the Tree being as full of young Fruit as an Apple- Tree ordinarily in England. Thefe laft yield very large Pods, about 6 Inches long, and as big as a Man's Arm. It is ripe in September and Otloher -, then the Pod opens, and the Cotton burfls out in a great Lump as big as a Man's Head. They gather thefe Pods before they open ; otherways it would fly all away. It opens as well after 'tis gathered ; and then they take out the Cotton, and preferve it to fill Pillows and Bolfters, for which ufe 'tis very much efteemed : But 'tis fit for nothing elfe, being fo fhort that it cannot be fpun. 'Tis of a tawney Co- lour ; and the Seeds are black, very round, and as big as a white Pea. The other Sort is ripe in March or April. The Fruit or Pod is like a large Apple, and very round. The out-fide Shell is as thick as the Top of one's Finger. Within this there is a very thin whitifh Bag or Skin which inclo- feth the Cotton. When the Cotton-Apple is ripe, the outer thick green Shell fplits it klf into 5 equal Parts from Stemb to Tail, and drops off, leaving the Cotton hanging upon the Stemb, only pent up in its fine Bag. A Day or two afterwards the Cot- ton fwells by the Heat of the Sun, breaks the Bag and burfts out, as big as a Man's Head : And then as the Wind blows 'tis by Degrees driven away, a little at a Time, out of the Bag that ftil.l hangs up- on the Stemb, and is fcatter'd about the Fields ; the Bag foon following the Cotton, and the Stemb the Bag. Here is alio a little of the right Weft-India, Cotton Shrub : but none of the Cotton is exported, nor do they make much Cloth of it.
This
f
'46 Fruits. Brafilian Fruits. The Sour-fop.
rAn. 1699. This Country produces great Variety of fine """ Fruits, as very good Oranges of 3 or 4 Sorts ; (es- pecially one Sort of China Oranges ;) Limes in A- bundance, Pomegranates, Pomecitrons, Plantains, Bonano's, right Coco-nuts, Guava's, Coco-plumbs, (call'd here MunfterooH) Wild-Grapes, fuch as I have defcribM [Vol. II. Part 2. p. 46.] befide fuch Grapes as grow in Europe. Here are alfo Hog- plumbs, Cuftard-Apples, Sour-fops, Cajhews, Pa- pah's (called here Mamoom) Jennipah's (called here Jenni-papah's) Manchineel-AppleS and Mango's. Mango's are yet but rare here : I faw none of them but in the Jefuifs Garden, which has a great many iine Fruits, and fome Cinnamon-trees. Thefe, both of i them, were firft brought from the Eaft-In- dies, and they thrive here very well : So do Pumple- muffes, brought alfo from thence ; and both China and Sevil Oranges are here very plentiful as well as good.
The Sour-fop (as we call it) is a large Fruit as big as a Man's Head, of a long or oval Shape, and of a green Colour ; but one Side is yellowifh when ripe. The out-fide Rind or Coat is pretty thick, and very rough, with fmall fharp Knobs i the In- fide is full of fpungy Pulp, within which alfo are many black Seeds or Kernels, in Shape and Bignefs like a Pumpkin-feed. The Pulp is very juicy, of a pleafant Tafle, and wholefome. You fuck the Juice out of the Pulp, and fo fpit it out. The Tree or Shrub that bears this Fruit grows about 10 or 12 Foot high, with a fmall fhort Body ; the Branches growing pretty flrait up ; for I did never fee any of them fpread abroad. The Twigs are fiender and tough j and fo is the Stemb of the Fruit. This Fruit grows aifo both in the Eafi and Wefi -Indies.
The
Cafliew, Jennipah, and Arifah Fruitl 47
The Cajbew is a Bruit as big as a Pippin, pretty An. 1699; long, and bigger near the Stemb than at the other Lop^j End, growing tapering. The Rind is fmooth and thin, of a red and yellow Colour. The Seed of this Fruit grows at the End of it ; ?tis of an Olive Co- bur fhaped like a Bean, and about the fame Bignefs, but not altogether fo flat. The Tree is as big as an. Apple-Tree, with Branches not thick, yet fpreading off. The Boughs are grofs, the Leaves broad and round, and in Subftance pretty thick. This Fruit is foft and fpongy when ripe, and fo full of Juice that in biting it the Juice will run out on both Sides of one's Mouth. It is very pleafant, and gratefully rough on the Tongue-, and is accounted a very wholefome Fruit. This grows both in the Eafi and Weft-Indies, where I have feen and eaten of it.
The Jennipah or Jennipapah is a Sort of Fruit of the Calabafh or Gourd- kind. It is about the Bignefs of a Duck-Egg, and fomewhat of an Oval Shape ; and is of a grey Colour. The Shell is not altoge- ther fo thick nor hard as a Calabafh : 'Tis full of whitifh Pulp mixt with fmall flat Seeds -, and both Pulp and Seeds mull be taken into the Mouth, where fucking out the Pulp, you fpit out Seeds. It is of a fharp and pleafing Tafte, and is very in- nocent. The Tree that bears it is much like an Afh, ftreight bodied, and of a good Height ; clean from Limbs till near the Top, where there Bran- ches forth a fmall Head. The Rind is of a pale grey, and fo is the Fruit. We us'd of this Tree to make Helves or Handles for Axes (for which it is very proper) in the Bay of Campeachy, where I have feen of them, and no where elfe but here.
Befides thefe, here are many Sorts of Fruits which I have not met with any where but here •, as Ari- fah's, Mericafah's, Petango's, &V. Arifab's are an excellent Fruit, not much bigger than a large Cher- ry j fhaped like a Catherine-Pear, being fmall at the
Stemb,
Mericafah, Petango, Petumbo, Mungaroo, &cl
jln. 1699.St.emb, and fwelling bigger towards the End. They
^■^T^ are of a greenifh Colour, and have fmall Seeds as
big as Muftard Seeds ; they are forfiewhat tart, yet
pleafants and very wholfome, and may be eaten by
fick People.
Mericafab's, are an excellent Fruit, of which there are 2 Sorts -, one growing on a fmall Tree or Shrub, which is counted the bell •, the other grow- ing on a Kind of Shrub like a Vine, which they plant about Arbours to make a Shade, having ma- ny broad Leaves. The Fruit is as big as a fmall O- range, round and green. When they are ripe they are foft and fit to eat ; full of white Pulp mixt thick with little black Seeds, and there is no feparating one from the other, till they are in your Mouth ; when you fuck in the white Pulp and fpit out the Stones. They are tart, pleafant, and very wholfome.
Petango' sy are a fmall red Fruit, that grow alfo on fmall Trees, and are as big as Cherries, but not fo globular, having one flat Side, and alfo 5 or 6 fmall protulerant Ridges. 'Tis a very pleafant tart Fruit, and has a pretty large flattilh Stone in the Middle.
Pet umbo's, are a yellow Fruit (growing on a Shrub like a Vine) bigger than Cherries, with a pretty large Stone : Theie are fweet, but rough in the Mouth.
Mungaroo's, are a Fruit as big as Cherries, red on one Side and white on the other Side : They are faid to be full of fmall Seeds, which are commonly fwallowed in eating th^m.
MuckiJ/jaw's, are faid to be a Fruit as big as Crab- Apples, growing on large Trees. They have alfo fmall Seeds in the Middle, and are well tailed.
Ingwa's, are a Fruit like the Locull-Fruit, 4 Inches long, and one broad. They grow on high Trees.
Otee,
if
m
Mufteran-de-ova. Talm-berry7 Sec.
49
Otee, is a Fruit as big as a large Coco-Nut. It -An. 1699- hath a Husk on the outfide, and a large Stone with- ^vW in, and is accounted a very fine Fruit.
Mufteran-de-oVa's, are a round Fruit as big as large Hazel-Nuts, cover'd with thin brittle Shells of a blackiih Colour : They have a fmall Stone in the middle, inclofed within a black pulpy Subftance, which is of a pleafant Tafte. The outfide Shell is chewed with the Fruit, and fpit out with the Stone, when the Pulp is fuck'd from them. The Tree that bears this Fruit is tall, large, and very hard Wood. I have not feen any of thefe five laft named Fruits, but had them thus defcribed to me by an Irijh In- habitant of Bahia ; tho* as to this laft, I am apt to believe, I may have both feen and eaten of them in Achin in Sumatra.
Palm-berries (called here Dendees) grow plentifully about Bahia \ the largeft are as big as Wall-nuts ; they grow in Bunches on the top of the Body of the Tree, among the Roots of the Branches or Leaves, as all Fruits of the Palm-kind do. Thefe are the fame kind of Berries or Nuts as thofe they make the Palm-Oyl with on the Coaft of Guinea^ where they abound : And I was told that they make Oyl with them here alfo. They fometimes roaft and eat them ; but when I had one roafted to prove it, I did not like it.
Pbyfick-Nuts, as our Seamen call them, are cal- led here Pineon ; and Agnus Caftus is called here Carrepat : Thefe both grow here : So do Mendibees9 a Fruit like Phyfick-Nuts. They fcorch them in a Pan over the Fire before they eat them.
Here are alfo great plenty of Cabbage-Trees, and other Fruits, which I did not get information about, and which I had not the Opportunity of feeing •, be- caufe this was not the Seafon, it being our Spring, and confequently their Autumn, when their bell Fruits were gone, tho5 fome were left. However I
Vol. III. E faw
f
5 o B. Fruits, Roots andHctbs. Birds. The Temma^ &c
■'An, i699-faw abundance of wild Berries in the Woods and ^^v Fields, but I' could not learn their Names or Na- ture.
They have withal good plenty of ground Fruit, as Callavances, Pine- Apples, Pumkins, Water-Me- lons, Musk-Melons, Cucumbers, and Roots ; as Yams, Potato's CafTava's, &c. Garden-Herbs alfo good ftore ; as Cabbages, Turnips, Onions, Leeks, and abundance of other Sallading, and for- the Pot. Drugs of feveral forts, viz. SafTafras, Snake-Root, &c. Befide the Woods I mentioned for Dying, and other Ufes, as Fuftick, Speckled-wood, &c.
I brought home with me from hence a good Num- ber of Plants, dried between the Leaves of Books ; of fome of the choked of which, that are not fpoil'd, I may give a Specimen at the End of the Book.
Here are faid to be great plenty and variety of Wild-Fowl, viz. Temrm's, Maccaw's fwhich are called here Jackoo's, and are a larger fort of Parrots, and fcarcer) Parrots, Parakites, Flamingo's, Car- rion-Crows, Chattering-Crows, Cockrecoes, Bill- Birds finely painted, Correfoes, Doves, Pidgeons, J-enetees, Clocking-Hens, Crab- Catchers, Galdens, Currecoo's, Mufcovy Ducks, common. Ducks, Widgeons, Teal, Curlews, Men of War Birds, Booby's, Noddy's, Pelicans, &c.
The Temma is bigger than a Swan, grey-feather- ed, with a long thick fharp-pointed Bill.
The Carrion-Crow and Chattering-Crows, are called here Mackeraw's, and are like thofe I de- fcribed in the JVeft- Indies, [Vol. II. Part II p. 67.] The Bill of the Chattering-Crow is black, and the Upper-Bill is round, bending downwards like a* Hawks-Bill, rifmg up in a Ridge almoft Semi-cir- cular, and very iliarp, both at the Ridge or Con- vexity, and at the Point or Extremity : The Low- / er-Bill is flat and fhuts even with it. I was told by
a Por-
' Bill- Bird. Curefo. Turtle-Dove, &h\ 51
a Portugueze here, that their Negro- Wenches make An. 1699; Love-Potions with thefe Birds. And the Portugueze V^Y^Sl care not to let them have any of thefe Birds, to keep them from that Superftition : As I found one Afternoon when I was in the Fields with a Padre and another, who fhot two of them, and hid them, as they faid, for that Reafo'n. They are not good Food, but their Bills are reckoned a good Anti- dote again ft Poifon.
The Bill-Birds are fo called by the Englijh^ from their monftrous Bills, which are as big as their Bo- dies. I fawnone of thefe Birds here, but faw feve- ral of the Breafts flea'd off and dried, for the Beau- ty of them ; the Feathers were curioufly colour'd with Red, Yellow, and Orange-colour.
The Currefo's (called here Mackeraw's) are fuch as are in the Bay of Campeacby [Vol. II. Part 2. p. 67.]
Turtle-Doves are in great plenty here ♦, and two forts of Wild Pidgeons •, the one fort Blackifh, the other a light Grey : The Blackifh or dark Grey are the Bigger, being as large as our Wood-Quefts, or Wood-Pidgeons in England. Both forts are very good Meat ; and are in fuch plenty from May till September, that a Man may fhoot 8 or 10 Dozen in feveral Shots at one ftanding, in a clofe mifty Morn- ing, when they come to feed on Berries that grow in the Woods.
The Jenetee is a Bird as big as a Lark, with blackifh Feathers, and yellow Legs and Feet. 5Tis accounted very wholfome Food.
Clocking-Hens, are much like the Crab-catchers, which I have defcribed [Vol. II. Part 2. p. 70.] but the Leg's are not altogether fo long. They keep al- ways in fwampy wet Places, tho' their Claws are like Land-Fowls Claws, They make a Noife or Clucklikz our Brood-Hens, or Dunghil-Hens, when they have Chickens, and for that Ikafon they are E 2 called
|
• |
|
' |
52 Birds of the Wzt.-kind. Oft rich. ^Dungl-Fowl.
An^ 1699. called by the Englifh, Clocking-Hens. There are *>W many of them in the Bay of Campeacby (tho* I o- 'I _ mitted to fpeak of them there) and elfewhere in the
Weft-Indier. There are both here and there four forts of thefe long-legg'd Fowls, near a-kin to each other, as fo many Sub -Species of the fame Kind ; viz. Crab- catchers, Clocking-Hens, Galdens f which three are in fhape and Colour like Herons in England, but lefs •, the Gulden, the biggeft of the three, the Crab- catcher the fmalleft ;) and a fourth fort which are Black, but fhaped like the other, having long Legs and fhort Tails ; thefe are about the bignefs of Crab- catchers, and feed as they do.
Currecoos, are Water Fowls, as big as pretty large Chickens, of a bluifh Colour, with fhort Legs and Tail 1 they feed alfo in fwampy Ground, and are very good Meat. I have not feen of them elfe- where.
The Wild-Ducks here are faid to be of two forts, the Mufcovy, and the common-Ducks. In the wet Seafon here are abundance of them, but in the dry Time but few. Wigeon and Teal alfo are faid to be in great plenty here in the wet Seafon.
To the Southward of Babia there are alfo Ofbridges in great plenty, tho' 'tis faid, they are not fo large as thofe of Africa : They are found chiefly in the Southern Parts of Brazil, efpecially among the large Savannahs near the River of Plate -, and from thence further South towards the Streights of Ma- gellan.
A s for Tame Fowl at Babia, the chief befide their Ducks, are Dunghil-Fowlsi of which they have two forts 5 one fort much of the fize of our Cocks and Hens -, the other very large : And the Feathers of thefe laft are a long time coming forth j fo that you &e them very naked when half grown •, but when ffiey are full grown and well feathered, they appear very large Fowls, as indeed they are s neither do
they
1 - ' '
■i- ■'!
Beafts. Wild-Beafts, Serpents. Amphisbama; 53
they want for Price ; for they are fold at Bahia for ***^£99- half a Crown or three Shillings apiece, juft as thy are brought firft to Marker out of the Country, when they are fo lean as to be fcarce fit to eat.
The Land Animals here are Horfes, black Cattle, Sheep, Goats, Rabbits, Hogs, Leopards, Tygers, Foxes, Monkeys, Pecary (fa fort of wild Hogs, called here Pica) Armadillo, Alligators, Guano's (call'd Quittee) Lizards, Serpents, Toads, Frogs, and a fort of amphibious Creatures called by the Portugueze Cachora's de agua, in EngUJh Water- Dogs.
The Leopards and Tygers of this Country are faid to be large and very fierce : But here on the Coaftthey are either deftroyed, or driven back to- wards the Heart of the Country 5 and therefore are feldom found but in the Borders and Out-planta- tions, where they oftentimes do Mifchief. Here are three or four forts of Monkeys, of different Sizes and Colours. One fort is very large ; and a- nother fort is very fmall : Thefe laft are ugly in Shape and Feature, and have a ftrong Scent of Musk.
Here are feveral forts of Serpents, many of them vaftly great, and mod of them very venomous : As the Rattle-fnake for one : And for Venom, a fmall Green Snake is bad enough, no bigger than the Stemb of a Tobacco-pipe, and about 1 8 Inches long, very common here.
They have here alfo the Amphijbcenay or Two- headed Snake, of a grey Colour, mixt with black- ifri Stripes, whofe Bite is reckon'd to be incurable. 'Tis faid to be blind, tho' it has two fmall Specks in each Head like Eyes : But whether it fees or not I cannot tell. They fay it lives like a Mole, mofi> ly under Ground •, and that when it is found above Ground it is eafily kill'd, becaufe it moves but (low- ly : Neither is its Sight (if it hath any; fo good as to; E 3 difcera
54 Land and Water- Serpent si
rAn. i6p9.difcern any one that comes near to kill it : as few of VSOf^ thefe Creatures fly at a Man, or hurt him but when he comes in their way. 'Tis about 14 Inches long, and about the bignefs of the inner Joint of a Man's middle Finger ; being of one and the fame bignefs from one End fo the other, with a Head at each End, fas they faid ; for I cannot vouch it, for one I had was cut fhort at one End) and both alike in fhape and bignefs ; and 'tis faid to move with ei- ther Head foremoft, indifferently ; whence 'tis called by the Portugueze^ Cobra cle dos Cabefas, the Snake with two Heads.
The fmall black Snake is a very venomous Crea- ture.
There is alio a grey Snake, with red and brown Spots all over its back. 'Tis as big as a Man's Arm, and about 3 Foot long, and is faid to be venomous, I faw one of thefe.
Here are two forts of very large Snakes or Ser- pents ; One of 'em a Land-make, the other a Wa- ter-fnake. The Land-fnake is of a grey Colour, and about 1 8 or 20 Foot long : Not very veno- mous, but ravenous. I was promifed the fight of qne of their Skins, but wanted Opportunity.
The -Water-make is faid to be near 30 Foot long. Thefe live wholly in the Water, either in large Ri- vers, or great Lakes, and prey upon any Creature that comes within their Reach, be it Man or Beaft. They draw their Prey to them with their Tails : for when they fee any thing on the Banks of the River pr Lake where they lurk, they fwing about their Tails 10 or 12 Foot over the Bank ; and whatever Hands within their Sweep is fnatch'd with great Vi- olence into the River, and drowned by them. Nay 'tis reported very credibly that if they fee only a fhade of any Animal at all on the Water, they will flourifh their Tails to bring in the Man or Beaft whofe Shade ihey fee, arid are oftentimes too fuccefsful in it.
Where-
;■?
Great Water-fnake of Braz. Cuchora de Agua. J$
Wherefore Men that have Bufinefs near any Placed. 1699: where thefe Water-Monfters are fufpe&ed to lurk, V^V^ are always provided with a Gun, which they often fire, and that fcares them away, or keeps them quiet. They are faid to have great Heads, and ftrong Teeth about 6 Inches long. I was told by an Irijh Man who Hved here, that his Wife's Father was very near being taken by one of them about this Time of my firft Arrival here, when bis Father was with him up in the Country : For the Beaft flourifh'd his Tail for him, but came not nigh e- nough by a Yard or two ; however it feared him fufficiently.
The amphibious Creatures here which I faid are called by the Portugueze Cuchora'?, de Agua, or Wa- ter-dogs, are faid to be as big as fmall Maftiffs, and are all hairy and fhaggy from Head to Tail. They have 4 fhort Legs, a pretty long Head and fhorc Tail ; and are of a blackifh Colour. They live in frefh Water-ponds, and oftentimes come afhore and Sun themfelves ; but retire to the Water if aifault- ed. They are eaten, and faid to be good Food, Several of thefe Creatures which I have now fpoken of I have not feen, but inform' d my felf about them while I was here at Bahia, from fober and fenfible Perfons among the Inhabitants, among whom I met with fome that could fpeak Engli/h,
In the Sea upon this Coaft there is great Store and Diverfity of Fifh, viz. Jew-fifh, for which there is a great Market at Bahia in Lent : Tarpoon's, Mul- lets, Groopers, Snooks, Gar-fifli (called here Goo* lion's,). Gorafes, Barrama's, Coquinda's, Cavallie's, Cuchora's (or Dog-afh) Conger-Eels, Herrings (as I was told; the Serrew, the Olio de Boy, (I write and fpell them juft as they were named to mej Whales, &V,
E 4 Hcgi
Shell-Fifh. Green Turtle. Hawks -bill Turtle:
r"&&\ h **?r\ is alfo She""fi^ rtho' in Ids Plenty about * y-JIatea than on other Parts of the Coaft, J viz Lob- fters, Craw-fifh, Shrimps, Crabs, Gy Iters of the common Sort, Conchs, Wilks, Cockles, Mufcles, Pernwinkles, &c. Here are three Sorts of Sea- Turtle, viz. Hawksbill, Loggerhead, and Green: But none of them are in any efteem, neither Spani- ards nor Portugueze loving them : Nay they have a great Antipathy againft them, and would much ra- ther eat a Porpoife, tho' our Englifh count the green Turtle very extraordinary Food. The Rea- fon that is commonly given in the Weft-Indies for the Spaniards not caring to eat of them, is the Fear they -have left, being ufually foul-bodied, and many of them pox'd flying, as they do, fo promifcu- oudy with their Negrines and other She-flaves) they fhould break out loathfomely like Lepers ; which this Sort of Food, 'tis faid, does much encline Men to do, fearching the Body, and driving out any fuch grofs Humours : For which Caufe many of our Englijh Valetudinarians have gone from Jamaica (tho' there they have alfo Turtle ) to the I. Caimanes, at the Laying-time, to live wholly upon Turtle that then abound there ; purpofely to have their Bo- dies fcour'd by this Food, and their Diftempers dri- ven out ; and have been faid to have found many of them good Succefs in it. But this by the way. The Hawks-bill-Turtle on this Coaft of Brazil is moft fought after of any, for its Shell ; which by Report of thofe I have convers'd with at Babia, is the clear- eft and beft clouded Tortoife-lhell in the World. I had fome of it fhewn me, which was indeed as good as I ever faw. They get a pretty deal of it in fome Parts on this Coaft j but 'tis very dear.
Befide this Port of Bahia de todoslos Santos, there are 2 more principal Ports on Brazil, where Eu- ropean Ships Trade, viz. Pernambuc and Ria Janet* ra \ and I was told that there go as many Ships to
each
St. Paul's, &c. in Brazil. 57
each of thefe Places as to Babia, and 2 Men of War An. 1699. to each Place for their Convoys. Of the other opV7V Ports in this Country none is of greater Note than that of St. Paul's, where they gather much Gold ; but the Inhabitants are faid to be a Sort of Banditti^ or loofe People that live under no Government : But their Gold brings them all Sorts of Commodi- ties that they need, as Clothes, Arms, Ammuniti- on, fcfe. The Town is faid to be large and ftrong.
CHAP.
i S The A's Stay at Bahia j <z^ 2V#. to go away.
r£n. 1699.
W^y^w
CHAP. III. '
The A.'s Stay and Bufinefs at Bahia : Of the Winds and Sea font of the Year there. Bis departure for N. Holland. C. Salvadore. The Winds on the Brafilian Coafl; and Abrohlo Shoal; Fifh, and Birds : The Shear-water Bird, and Cooking of Sharks. Ex- ceffive Number of Birds about a dead Whale ; of the Pintado- - bird, and the Petrel, &c. Of a Bird that fhews the C. of G. Hoyctobenear: Of the Sea- reckonings, and Variations .• And a Table of all the Variations obfervd in this Voyage. Occur- fences near the Cape; and the A.'s pa/fmg by it. Of the Wetter. ly Winds beyond it: A Storm, and its Prefages. The A.'s Courfe to N. Holland ; and Signs of approaching it. Another Abrohlo Shok and Storm, and the A.'s Arrival on part of N. Holland. That part defer ib'd; and Shark'* Bay, where he firfi anchors. Of the Land there, Vegetables, Birds, he. A particular Sort of Guano: Fifh, and beautiful Shells ; Turtle, large Shark, and Water- Serpents. The A.'s removing to another part of N. Hol- land:. Dolphins, Whales, and more Sea-Serpents: and of a Paf- fage or Straight fufpecled here : Of the Vegetables, Birds, and Ft{h. He anchors on a third Part of N. Holland, and digs Wells, but brac\ifh. Of the Inhabitants there, the great Tidest the Vegetables and Animals, &c.
TV 4" Y Stay here at Bahia was about a Month ; du« 1V-1 ring which Time the Vice-Roy of Goa came hither from thence in a great Ship, faid to be rich- ly laden with all Sorts of India Goods ; but fhe did not break Bulk here, being bound Home for Lif bon -, only the Vice-Roy intended to refrefh his Men (of whom he had loll many, and moil of the reft were very fickly, having been 4 Months in their Voyage hither) and fo to take in Water, and de-, part for Europe in Company with the other Portu- guese Ships thither bound -, who had Orders to be ready to fail by the twentieth of May. He defir'd me to carry a Letter for him, directed to his Sue- ceiTor the new Vice-Roy of Goa ; which 1 did, fend- ing it thither afterwards by Captain Hammond, whom J found near the Cap 0} Qood Hope, The refreihing
Of the Winds and Seafons about Bahia." 59
my Men, and taking in Water, was the main alfo An. 169^ of my Bufinefs here ; befide the having the better t-O/^NJ Opportunity to compofe the Diforders among my Crew : Which, as I have before related, were grown to fo great a Heighth, that they could not without great Difficulty be appeafed : However, finding Opportunity, during my Stay in this Place, to allay in fome Meafure the Ferment that had been raifed among my Men, I now fet my felf to provide for the carrying on of my Voyage with more Heart than before, and put all Hands to work, in order to it, as faft as the Backwardnefs of my Men would permit ; who fhew'd continually their Unwillingnefs to proceed farther. Belides, their Heads were ge- nerally fill'd with ftrange Notions of Southerly Winds that were now fetting in (and there had been already fome Flurries of them ) which, as they fur- mis'd, would hinder any farther Attempts of go- ing on to the Southward, fo long as they fhould • laft.
The Winds begin to fhift here in April and Sep* tember, and the Seafons of the Year (the Dry and the Wet) alter with them. In April the Southerly Winds make their Entrance on this Coaft, bringing in the wet Seafon, with violent Tornado's, Thun- der and Lightening, and much Rain. In September the other Coafting Trade, at Eaft North-Eaft: comes in, and clears the Sky, bringing fair Wea- ther. This, as to the Change of Wind, is what I have obferv'd Vol. II. Part. 3. p. 19. but as to the Change of Weather accompanying it fo exactly here at Babia, this is a particular Exception to what I have experienc'd in all other Places of South Lati- tudes that I have been in between the Tropicks, or thofe I have heard of j for there the dry Seafons fets in, in Aprils and the Wet about Oflober or Novem- ber, fooner or later fas I have faid that they are, in South Latitudes^ the Reverfe of the Seafons, or ' ' ' ' Weather,
:?! I
::
Seafon for ait ting Sugar-Canesl
An. 1699. Weather, in the fame Months in N. Latitudes, ^V^ Vol.11. Part. 3. p. yy.) whereas on this Coaft of Brazil, the wet Seafon comes in in April, at the fame Time that it doth in N. Latitudes, and the dry fas I hive faid here) in September ; the Rains here not lafting fo far in the Year as in other Pla- ces •, For in September the Weather is ufually fo fair, that in the latter part of that Month they begin to cut their Sugar-Caneshere, as I was told ; for I en- quired particularly about the Seafons: Though this, as to the Seafon of cutting of Canes, which 1 was now affur'd to be in September, agrees not very well with what I was formerly told [Vol. II. Part 3. p. 82.] that in Brazil they cut the Canes in July. And fo, as to what is faid a little lower in the fame Page, that in managing their Canes they are not confin'd to the Seafons, this ought to have been exprefs'd only of planting them ; for they never cut them but in • the dry Seafon.
But to return to the Southerly Winds, which came in (as I expected they would) while I was here : Thefe daunted my Ship's Company very much, tho' I had told them they were to look for them : But they being ignorant as to what I told them far- ther, that thefe were only Coafting- Winds, fweep- ing the Shore to about 40 or 50 Leagues in Breadth from it, and imagining that they had blown fo all the Sea over, between America and Africa ; and be- ing confirrh'd in this their Opinion by the Portugueze Pilots of the European Ships, with whom feveral of my Officers converfed much, and who were them- felves as ignorant that thefe were only Coafting Trade- Winds (themfelves going away before them, in their Return homewards, till they crofs the Line, and fo having no Experience of the Breadth of them) being thus poffefs'd with a Conceit that we could not fail from hence till September •, this made them ftill the more remifs in their Duties, and very
liftlefs
Watering-pUce at Ba. andpleaf. Fields about if. 6i
liftlefs to the getting Things in a Readinefs for our An. 1699 Departure. However I was the more diligent my ^^ felf to have the Ship fcrubb'd, and to fend my Wa- ter-Casks alhore to get them trimm'd, my Beer be- ing now out. I went alfo to the Governour to get my Water fill'd ; for here being but one Watering- place fand the Water running low, now at the End of the dry SeafonJ it was always fo crouded with the European Ships Boats, who were preparing to be gone, that my Men could feldom come nigh it, till the Qovernour very kindly fent an Officer to clear the Water-place for my Men, and to ftay there till my Water-Casks were all full, whom I fatisfied for his Pains. Here I alfo got aboard 9 or 10 Ton of Ballaft, and made my Boatfwain fit the Rigging that was amifs ; And I enquired alfo of my particular Officers whofe Bufinefs it was, whether they wanted any Stores, efpecially Pitch and Tar ; for that here I would fupply my felf before I proceeded any far- ther; but they faid they had enough, tho' it did not afterwards prove fo.
I commonly went alhore every Day, either upon Bufinefs, or to recreate my felf in the Fields, which were very pleafant, and the more for a Shower of Rain now and then, that ufhers in the wet Seafon. Several Sorts of good Fruits were alfo till remain- ing, efpecially Oranges, which were in fuch Plenty, that I and all my Company ftock'd our, felves for our Voyage with them, and they did us a great Kindnefs ; and we took in alfo a good Quantity of Rum and Sugar : But for Fowls they being here lean and dear, I was glad I had ftock'd my felf at St. Jago. But by the little Care my Officers took for freffi Provifions, one might conclude, they did not think of going much farther. Befides, 1 had like to have been imbr oiled with the Clergy here (of the Inquifition, as I fuppofej and fo my Voyage might have been hundred. What was faid to them
of
The A's departure from Bahia, C. Salvador;
N ll^f^ hy fomeof my Company that went afhore, » I know not i but I was affured by a Merchant there, that if they got me into their Clutches (and it feems, when I was Jaft afhore they had narrowly watered me) the Governour himfelf could not re- Jeafe me. Befides I might either be murther'd in the Streets, as he fent me Word, or poifoned, if I came afhore any more ; and therefore he advifed me to flay aboard. Indeed I had now no further Bufi- nefs afhore but to take leave of the Governour, and therefore took his Advice.
Our Stay here was till the 23d of April T would have gone before if I could fooner have fitted my felf 5 but was now earner! to be gone, becaufe this Harbour lies open to the S. and S. S. W. which are raging Winds here, and now was the Seafon for them. We had 2 or 3 Touches of them ; and one pretty fevere, and the Ships ride there fo near each other, that if a Cable ihould fail, or an Anchor Hart, you are inflantly aboard of one Ship or other : And I was more afraid of being difabled here In Harbour by thefe bluftring Winds, than difcoura- ged by them, as my People were, from profecuting the Voyage ; for at prefent I even winVd for a brisk Southerly Wind as foon as I mould be once well out of the Harbour, to fet me the fooner into the true General Trade- Wind.
The Tide of Flood being fpent, and having a fine Land-Breeze on the 23 d, in the Morning, I went away from the Anchoring place before 'twas light ; and then lay by till Day-light that we might fee the better how to go out of the Harbour. I had a Pilot belonging to Mr. Cock, who went out with me, to whom I gave 3 Dollars ; but I found I could as well have gone out my felf, by the Sound- ings I made at coming in. ,%The Wind was E. by N. and fair Weather, By' 10 a Clock I was got paft all Danger, and than fent away my Pilot, At 1 2 Cape
Salvadore
Winds and Breezes. Long, taken from C. £alv. 6$
Salvadore bore N. diftant 6 Leagues, arid we had the^». 1699* Winds between the E. by N. and S. E. a confidera- V"Y^M ble Time, fo that we kept along near the Shore, commonly in Sight of it. The Southerly Blafts had now left us again ; for they come at firft in fhort Flurries, and fhift to other Points (for 16 or 12 Days fometimes) before they are quite (et in : And we had uncertain Winds, between Sea and Land- Breezes, and the Coafting-Trade, which was its felf unfettled.
The Eafterly- Winds at prefent made me doubt I mould not weather a great Shoal which lies in Lat. between 18 deg. and 19 deg. S. and runs a great Way into the Sea, directly from the Land, Eafterly. Indeed the Weather was fair ("and conti- nued fo a good while,) fo that I might the better a- void any Danger from it : And if the Wind came to the Southward I knew I could ftretch off to Sea ;• fo that I jogg'd on couragioufly. The 27th of April we faw a fmall Brigantine under the Shore plying to the Southward. We alio faw many Men of War- birds and Boobies, and Abundance of Albicore-Fifti. Having Hill fair Weather, fmall Gales, and fome Calms, I had the Opportunity of trying the Current, which I found to fet fometimes Northerly and fome- times Southerly : And therefore knew I was ftill within the Verge of the Tides. Being now in the Lat. of the Abrohlo Shoals, which I expected to meet with, I founded, and had Water lefTening from 40 to 33, and fo to 25 Fathom : But then it rofe again to 33, 35, 37, &c. all Coral Rocks. Whilft we were on this Shoal (which we crofs'd to- wards the further part of it from Land, where it lay deep, and fo was not dangerous) we caught a great many Fifri with Hook and Line : and by eve- ning Amplitude we had 6 deg. 38 min. Eaft Varia- tion. This was • the 27th of April ; we were then in Lat. 1 8 deg. 1 3 min. S. and Eaft Longitude from
Cape
■
<>4 Shear-waters. Sharks cook'd. Whales]
^^9-Cape Salvadore 31 min. On the 29th, being then >^v^ in Lat. 18 deg. 29 min. S. we had fmall Gales from the W. N. W. to the W. S. "W. often fhifting. The 30th we had the Winds from W. to S. S. E. Squalls and Rain : And we faw fome Dolphins and other Fifh about us. We were now out of Sight of Land, and had been fo 4 or 5 Days: But the Winds now hanging in the South was an apparent Sign that we were ftill too nigh the Shore to receive the true General Eaft-Trade ; as the Eafterly Winds we had before fhew'd that we were too far off the Land to have the Benefit of the Coafting South-Trade: and the Faintnefs of both thefe Winds, and their often fliifting from the S. S. W. to the S. E. with Squalls, Rain and fmall Gales, were a Confirmation of our being between the Verge of the S. Coafting- Trade, and that of the true Trade -, which is here, regularly, S. E.
The 3d of May being in Lat 20 deg. 00 min. and Merid. diftance Weft from Cape Salvadore 234 Miles, the Variation was 7 deg. 00 min. We faw no Fowl but Shear-waters, as our Sea-men call them, being a fmall black Fowl that fweep the Water as they fly, and are much in the Seas that lie without either of the Tropicks : they are not eaten. We caught 3 fmall Sharks, each 6 Foot 4 Inches long •, and they were very good Food for us. The next Day we caught 3 more Sharks of the fame Size, and we eat them alfo, efteeming them as good Fifh boil'd and prefs'd, and then ftew'd with Vinegar and Pepper.
We had nothing of Remark from the 3d of May to the 10th, only now and then feeing a fmall Whale fpouting up the Water. We had the Wind Eafterly, and we ran with it to the Southward, run- ning in this Time from the Lat. of 20 deg. 00 m. to 29 deg, 5 min. S. and having then 7 d. 3 m. E. Long, from C. Salvadore j the Variation increafing
upon
Innum. Fowls. Pintado-birds. Shear-waters, &c. 6$
upon us, atprefent, notwithftanding we went Eaft. r^^S" We had all along a great Difference between the ,/Y^ Morning and Evening Amplitudes •, ufually a De- gree or two, and fometimes more. We were now in the true Trade, and therefore made good Way to the Southward, to get without the Verge of the General Trade- Wind into a Wefterly Wind's way, that might carry us towards the Cape of Good Hope, By the 12th of May, being in Lat. 31 deg. 10 min. we began to meet with Wefterly Winds, _ which frefhned on us, and did not leave us till a little be- fore we made the Cape. Sometimes it blew fo hard that it put us under a Fore-courfe ; efpecially in the Night •, but in the Day-time we had commonly our Main Top-fail rift. We met with nothing of Mo- ment ; only we pad by a dead Whale, and faw Mil- lions (as I may fay) of Sea-Fowls about the Carcafs (and as far round about it as 'we could fee; fome feeding, and the reft flying about, or fitting on the Water, waiting to take their Turns. We firft dis- covered the Whale by the Fowls ; for indeed I did never fee fo many Fowls at once in my Life before, their Numbers being inconceivably great: They were of divers Sorts, in Bignefs, Shape and Colour. Some were almoft as big as Geefe, of a grey Colour, with white Breafts, and with fuch Bills, Wings, and Tails. Some were Pintado-Birds, as big as Ducks, and fpeckled black and white. Some w|re Shear- waters ; fome Petrels •, and there were feveral Sorts of large Fowls. We faw of thcfe Birds, efpecially the Pintado-birds, all the Sea over from about 200 Leagues diftant from the Coaft of Brazil, to with- in much the fame Diftance of New-Holland. The Pintado is a Southern Bird,, and of that temperate Zone ; for I never faw of them much to the Nor- ward of 30 deg. S. The Pintado-bird is as big as a Duck ; but appears, as it flies, about the Bignefs of a tame Pidgeon, having a ihort Tail, but the Wings Vol. III. F very
The "Pintado bird defcrib'd. The Petrel. ^1699- very long, as moft Sea-Fowls have j efpecially fuch ^ as thefe that fly far from the Shore, and L\ dom come nigh it j for their Refcing is fitting afloat up- on the Water ; but they lay, I fuppofe, afhore. There are three Sorts of thefe Birds, all of the fame Make and Bignefs, and are only different in Colour. The firft is black all over : The fecond Sort are grey, witn white Bellies and Breads. The third Sort, which is the true Pintado, or Painted-bird, is cunoufly fpotted white and black. Their Heads, and the Tips of their Wings and Tails, are black for about an Inch s and their Wings are alfo edo-'d quite round with fuch a fmall black Lift ; only with- in the black on the Tip of their Wings there is a white Spot teeming as they fly (for then their Spots are beft feen) as big as a Half-crown. All this is on the Oucfide of the Tails and Wings ; and as there is a wmte Spot in the bfeck Tip of the Wings, fo there . is m the Middle of the Wings which is white, a black bpot; but this, towards the Back of the Bird, turns gradually to a dark grey. The Back its k% from the Head to the Tip of the Tail, and the Edge of the Wings next to the Back, are all over-fpotted with fine fmall, round, white and black Spots, as big as a Silver Two-pence, and as clofe as they can flick one by another: The Belly, Thighs, Sides, and mnerpart of the Wings, are of a tight grey Thefe Birds, of all thefe Sorts, fly many together, never hi#i, but almoft fweeping the Water We fnot one a while after on the Water in a Calm, and a Water-Spaniel we had with us brought it in • I have given a pia.l)re of it [See Btrds*r 1 -, ^
it was ,0 damaged, that the Pidture doth not fhew
rhp°F7HVantagC; a^irsSPots are beft feen when
tlm leathers are fpread as it flies.
The Petrel is a Bird not much unlike a Swallow, but mailer, .and with a fhorter Tail. 'Tis all ove? black, except a white Spot on the Rump. They
fly
mwy?\ Kn/jjurt-.^ ,p>66
'I'hu wry mttch rv&mbl&s •the* G-tLOrra-uria, , defcrthed , and ■fx'g'ured hy Tifio .
?fte :PititttJ$ 3irl
Variation. Fowls jhe wing the C . of G . Hop e near. 67
fly fweeping like Swallows, and very near the Wa-^». 1699: ter. They are not fo often feen in fair Weather % <^T>«* being Foul-weather Birds, as our Seamen call them, and prefaging a Storm when they come about a Ship ; who for that Reafon don't love to fee them. In a Storm they will hover clofe under .the Ship's Stern, in the Wake of the Ship fas 'tis call'd) or the Smoothnefs which the Ship's paffing has made on the Sea : And there as they fly (gently then; they pat the Water alternately with their Feet, as if they walk'd upon it ; tho' ftill upon the Wing. And from hence the Seamen give them the Name of Pe- trels, in Allufion to St. Peter's walking upon the Lake of Gennefareth.
We alfo faw many Bunches of Sea-weeds in the Lat. of 39. 32. and by Judgment, near the Meridi- an'of the Ifland Triftian d> Aconha : And then we had about 2 d. 20 min. Eaft Variation : which was now again decreafing as we ran to the Eaftward, till near the Meridian of Jfcention \ where we found little or no Variation : But from thence, as we ran farther to the Eaft, our Variation increafed Wefterly.
Two Days before I made the Cape of G. Hope, my Variation was 7 deg. 58 min. WTeft. I was then in 43 deg. 27 min. Eait Longit. from C. Salvador, being in Lat. 3 5 deg. 3 o min. this was the the firft of June. The fecond of June I faw a large black Fowl, with a whitifh flat Bill, fly by us ; and took great Notice of it, becaufe in the Eaft-India Wag- goner, or Pilot-book, there is mention made of large Fowls, as big as Ravens, with white flat Bills and black Feathers, that fly not above 30 Leagues from the Cape, and are look'd on as a Sign of ones being near it. My Reckoning made me then think my felf above 90 Leagues from the Cape, according to the Longitude which the Cape hath in the com- t mon Sea-Charts- So that I was in fome doubt, whether thefe were the right Fowls fpoken of in the F 2 Waggoner j
68
An
Errors in Ships Reckonings,
^^ Waggoner ; ; or whether thofc Fowls might not % farther off Shore than is there mentioned ; or whe- ther, as it prov'd, I might not be nearer the Cape than I reckoned my felf to be ; for I found, foon after, that I was not then above 25 or 3o Leagues at moft from the Cape. Whether the Fault were m the Charts laying down the Cape too much to the fcait from Brazil or were rather in our Reckoning, I could not tell : But our Reckonings are liable to ^;^ncert™from Steerage, Log, Currents, Half-Minute-Glaffes ; and fometimes want of Care as in fo long a Run caufe often a Difference of many Leagues m the whole Account.
Moft of my Men that kept Journals imputed it to the Half-Minute Glaffes: and indeed we had not a good Glafs in the Ship befide the Half-watch or Two-Hour-GlafTes. As for our Half-Minute-Ghf- fes we tried them all at feveral Times, and we found thole that we had ufed from Brazil as much too ihort, as others we had ufed before were too long • wmch might well make great Errors in thofe feveral Reckonings. A Ship ought therefore to have its Glaffes very exaffc ; and befides, an extraordinary Care ought to be ufed in heaving the Log, for Fear or giving too much Stray-Line in a moderate Gale ; and ano to flop quickly in a brisk Gale, for when a Mup runs 8, 9 or 10 Knots, half a Knot or a Knot is loon run out, and not heeded : But to prevent Dan- ger, when a Man thinks himfelf near Land, the bell way is to look out betimes, and lye by in the Night, for a Commander may err eafily himfelf ; befide The Er- rors oi thofe under him, tho» never fo carefully eyed. Another Thing that Humbled me here was the Variation which, at this Time, by the laft Ampli- tude I had I found to be but 7 deg. 58 min. W wnereas the Variation at the Cape (from which I found my fdf not 30 Leagues diftant) was then computed, and truly, about 11 deg. or more:
And
.
^Difficulties in taking the Variation. 60
And yet a while after this, when I was got 10 An- l699> Leagues to the Eaftward of the Cape, I found the ' Variation but iodeg. 40 min. W. whereas it fhould have been rather more than at the Cape. Thefe Things, I confefs, did puzzle me: Neither was I fully fatisfied as to the Exaclnefs of the taking the Variation at Sea : For in a great Sea, which we of- ten meet with, the Compafs will traverfe with the Motion of the Ship ; befides the Ship may and will deviate fomewhat in (leering, even by the Deft Helmfmen : And then when you come to take an Azimuth, there is often fome Difference between him that looks at the Compafs, and the Man that takes the Altitude heighth of the Sun ; and a lmall Error in each, if the Error of both fhould be one way, will make it wide of any great Exactnefs. But what was moft mocking to me, I found that the Va- riation did not always increafe or decreafe in Pro- portion to the Degrees of Longitude Eaft or Weft ; as I had a Notion they might do to a certain Num- ber of Degrees of Variation Eaft or Weft, at fuch or fuch particular Meridians. But finding in this Voyage that the Difference of Variation did not bear a regular Proportion to the Difference of Longitude, I was much pleas'd to fee it thus ob- ferv'd in a Scheme fhewn me after my Return home, wherein are reprefented the feveral Variations in the Atlantick Sea, on both Sides the Equator •, and there, the Line of no Variation in that Sea is not a Meridi- an Line, but goes very oblique, as do thofe alfo which fhew the Increafe of Variation on each Side of it. In that Draught there is fo large an Advance made as well towards the accounting for thofe feem- ingly irregular Increafes and Decreafes of Variation towards the S. E. Coaft of America, as towards the fixing a general Scheme or Syftem of the Variation every where, which would be of fuch great Ufe in Navigation, that I cannot but hope that the ingenious F 3 Author,
70 C. Hal. Scheme of the Far obfertfd in this Voy. 'An. 1699. Author, Capt. Hally, who to his profound Skill in ^^T^ all Theories of thefe kinds, hath added and is ad- ding continually Perfonal Experiments, will e'er long oblige the World with a fuller Difcovery of the Courie of the Variation, which hath hitherto been a Secret. For my Part I profefs my felf un- qualified for offering at any thing of a General Scheme ; but fince Matter of Fad, and whatever increafes the Hiftory of the Variation, may be of ufe towards the fettling or confirming the Theory of it, I Dial] here once for all infert a Table of all the Variations I obferv'd beyond the Equator in this Voyage, both in going out, and returning back; and what Errors there may be in it, I mall leave to be corre&ed by the Obfervations of others.
A TaMe of Variations.
|
D.M. |
D. M. |
D. M, |
|||
|
1699. |
S.Lat. 6 15 |
Longit. 1 47 a |
Variat. |
||
|
• Mar. |
14 |
3 27^ |
|||
|
21 |
j 2 45 |
12 9 |
3 27 |
||
|
Apr. |
25 |
14 49 |
00 10 b |
7 0 |
|
|
28 |
18 13 |
00 31 |
6 38 |
||
|
30 |
19 00 |
2 20 |
6 30 |
||
|
May. |
2 |
19 22 |
3 5i |
8 15 |
|
|
3 |
20 1 |
3 4Q |
7 0 |
||
|
5 |
22 47 |
3 4S |
9 40 |
||
|
6 |
■24 23 |
3 53 |
7 36 |
||
|
7 |
25 44 |
3 53. |
10 15 |
||
|
8 |
26 47 |
4 35 |
7 14 |
||
|
9 |
28 9 |
• 5 59. |
9 45 |
||
|
10 |
29 5 |
7 i |
1 1 41 |
||
|
r 1 |
29 23 |
7 38 ! |
12 47 |
||
|
a W from St. Jaao. |
|||||
|
k E. frc |
m C. |
Salvador i |
n £r<?x/7. |
~ik%*
A Table of Variations.
|
D.M. |
D. M. |
||
|
1699. |
S.Lat. |
Longit. |
|
|
May. |
17 |
34 58 |
.18 43 |
|
18 |
34 54 |
19 06 |
|
|
l9 |
35 48 |
19 45 |
|
|
23 |
39 42 |
27 1 |
|
|
25 |
39 JI |
3i 35 |
|
|
June. |
1 |
35 3° |
43 27 |
|
5 |
35 »■ |
00 23 c |
|
|
6 |
36 7 |
3 6 |
|
|
8 |
36 *7 |
10 3 |
|
|
9 |
35 59- |
12 0 |
|
|
12 |
35 20 |
20 18 |
|
|
14 |
35 5 |
26 13 |
|
|
15 |
34 51 |
29 24 |
|
|
i7 |
34 27 |
36 8 |
|
|
19 |
34 17 |
39 24 |
|
|
20 |
34 15 |
42 25 |
|
|
22 |
33 34 |
45 4i |
|
|
25 |
35 8 |
45 28 |
|
|
28 |
36 40 |
49 33 |
|
|
29 |
36 40 |
53 12 |
|
|
30 |
36 15 |
56 22 |
|
|
July. |
1 |
35 35 |
58 44 |
|
4 |
33 32 |
66 22 |
|
|
6 |
31 3o |
68 34 |
|
|
7 |
31 45 |
69 00 |
|
|
10 |
. 32 39 |
70 21 |
|
|
11 |
33 4 |
72 00 |
|
|
J3 |
21 17 |
74 43 |
|
|
15 |
29 20 |
75 25 |
|
|
18 |
28 16 |
78 29 |
|
|
23 |
26 43 |
84 19 |
|
|
24 |
26 28 |
85 20 |
|
|
25 |
26 14 |
85 52 |
|
|
26 |
25 36 |
86 21 |
D. M.
.. Variaf.
5 4o E
6 19 5 ^ 2 55 2 o
7 58W
10 40
11 10
15 00 19 38
21 35
23 50
25 56
24 54
25 29 24 22
22 15
24 3o 22 50 22 44 21 40
19 45
16 40
12 20
12 2
13 36 12 29 10 o 10 28
9 5i
9 «
8 9
8 40 8 20
71
^». 1699.
« E. from C. G. #<>/><?.
F4
July.
A Table of Variations.
-An. 1699.
1699.
July.
Aug.
Sm.
Dee. 1700. Jan Feb.
Mar.
Apr,
27 29 3i 5 15 17 20 24
25
27
28
6
7 8
10
u
29
3
*3
16
21
23
27
10
x3
6
22
D.M.
S.Lat.
26 43
27 38 26 54
25 3° 24 41 23 2
J9 37 19 52
J9 45 19 24 18-38 17 16 16 9 *5 37 *3 55 13 12
1 32
9 12 12
43 43 10
3-5 J5 32
32
D, M. Longit.
86 16
87 25
88 1
86 3 86 2 d 00 22 3 00
4i
10
11
57 18
57 9 34*
10 55
11 42
6 34 *
6 5Z
2 48/
7 31 i5 23
18 00
19 41
00 5g
00 44 h
6 4
8 25 00 3y i
|
D. |
M. |
|
Variat. |
|
|
7 |
oW |
|
8 |
20 |
|
9 |
0 |
|
7 |
24 |
|
6 |
6 |
|
7 |
6 |
|
7 |
00 |
|
7 |
7 |
|
6 |
40 |
|
5 |
18 |
|
6 |
12 |
|
4 |
3 |
|
2 |
7 |
|
2 |
20 |
|
1 |
47 |
|
1 |
47 ' |
|
1 |
2E |
|
4 |
8 |
|
4 |
0 |
|
^ 26 |
|
|
8 |
45 |
|
8 |
45 |
|
9 |
5o |
|
1 |
0 |
|
9 |
0 |
|
8 |
25W |
|
7 |
16 |
|
3 |
00 |
/* E. from Sharks-Bay in .W. Holland,
e E. from Babao-Bay in J. Timor.
f E. from C, Ata£<? in .W. Guinea'.
g E. from C. f/. G*orge on I. X. Britannia*
h W. from *&tt0.
* W, from C. Mah,
May.
|
A Table of Variations^. |
T3 |
f"1 |
|||
|
D.M. |
D. M. |
D. M. a». 1699, ' |
|||
|
1700. |
S.Lat. |
Longit. |
Variat' K^T^ |
||
|
May. |
I |
3 °° |
k |
2 15 E |
|
|
24 |
9 59 |
00 25 I |
0 15W |
||
|
27 |
14 33 |
3 3° |
1 25 |
||
|
June. |
2 |
19 44 |
8 7 |
5 38 |
|
|
3 |
19 5i |
9 58 |
6 10 |
Hh^I^^I |
|
|
4 |
19 46 |
11 6 |
6 20 |
||
|
5 |
20 00 |
12 22 |
4 58 |
||
|
6 |
20 00 |
14 17 |
7 20 |
||
|
9 |
19 59 |
16 01 |
6 32 |
||
|
11 |
9 57 |
17 42 |
8 1 |
||
|
12 |
19 48 |
19 0 |
6 0 |
||
|
Nov. |
7 |
21 26 |
m |
9 0 |
|
|
H |
27 1 |
35 35 |
16 50 |
||
|
15 |
27 10 |
36 34 |
18 57 |
||
|
16 |
27 11 |
37 54 |
17 24 |
||
|
*9 |
28 14 |
41 40 |
19 39 |
||
|
21 |
29 24 |
44 47 |
20 50 |
||
|
23 |
'29 42 |
47 34 |
21 38 |
||
|
24 |
30 16 |
49 26 |
26 00 |
||
|
25 |
30 40 |
51 24 |
22 38 |
||
|
27 |
3i 5i |
55 5 |
22 40 |
||
|
29 |
32 55 |
56 28 |
27 10 |
||
|
30 |
31 55 |
57 25 |
27 10 |
||
|
Dec. |
1 |
31 57 |
58 i7 |
24 3° |
1 |
|
2 |
3i 57 |
59 33 |
27 57 |
I |
|
|
4 |
32 3 |
61 45 |
24 50 |
1 |
|
|
6 |
32 i5 |
66 00 |
23 3° |
1 |
|
|
7 |
37 28 |
68 36 |
24 48 |
||
|
8 |
33 49 |
6438 |
21 53 |
||
|
9 |
32 49 |
70 09 |
24 00 |
||
|
11 32 50 |
71 45 |
21 15 |
|||
|
k At Anchor off I. Ctram. |
|||||
|
I W. from Babao-Bzy. |
|||||
|
wW.f |
rom P |
rimes Ifle b |
y Java-HttS |
Iter.
/'
'Jin. 1699.
I701.7^
1 d\
|
hie of Variation |
r. |
|
|
D.M. |
D. M. |
(D. M. Variat. |
|
S.Lat. |
Longit. |
|
|
3i 55 |
72 32 |
20 16W |
|
3i 35 |
73 39 |
20 00 |
|
32 21 |
75 22 |
20 00 |
|
33 5 |
79 39 |
18 42 |
|
33 0 |
80 39 |
J7 15 |
|
34 39 |
82 46 |
16 41 |
|
34 36 |
83 i9 |
14 36 |
|
34 21 |
83 42 |
14 00 |
|
34 3S |
84 21 |
14 00 |
|
3i 25 |
2 32^ |
10 20 |
|
30 5 |
4 42 |
9 36 |
|
28 46 27 26 26 11 |
6 8 .7 3,2 9 9 |
a 25 7 40 7 30 |
|
25 00 |
■10 49 |
7 9 |
|
23 42 |
12 34 |
6 55 |
|
22 51 |
14 10 |
5 56 |
|
21 48 |
15 17 |
- 5 32 |
|
21 24 |
15 51 |
4 56 |
|
19 «fc |
16 48 |
4 20 |
|
19 10 18 13 |
17 22 |
3 24 |
|
18 23 |
4 00 |
|
|
17 22 |
19 29 |
2 00 |
|
12 52 |
3 8 0 |
1 50 |
|
11 55 4-42 |
1 10 |
|
|
11 17 5 30 |
0 20 |
|
|
10 22 J |
6132 J |
1 10 |
We made the I. Afcention.
n W. from the Trffc-Landiat C. G.H^# « W.. Santa Helen*. P'
But
yieetingthe A. ofL. The A.paffesthe CofG. H. 75
But to return from this Digreffion : Having fair An. 1699, Veather, and the Winds hanging Southerly, I jog'd ^W* n to the Eaftward, to make the Cape. On the lird of June we faw a Sail to Leeward of us, fhew- ig Engli/h Colours. I bore away to fpeak with her, id found her to be the Antelope of London, com- landed by Captain Hammond, and bound for the lay of Bengal in the Service of the New-Eaft- India Company. There were many PafTengers aboard, ping to fettle there under Sir Edward Littleton* rho was going Chief thither : I went aboard, and ras known by Sir Edward and Mr. Hedges, and indly received and treated by them and the Com- lander ; who had been afraid of us before, tho' I ad fent one of my Officers aboard. They had ieen in at the Cape, and came from thence the Day lefore, having ftock'd themfelves with Refrefh- nents. They told me that they were by Reckon- ng, 60 Miles to the Weft of the Cape. While I iras aboard them, a fine fmall Wefterly Wind fprang ip -, therefore I fhortned my ftay with them, be- ;aufe I did not defign to go into the Cape. When
took leave I was prefented with half a Mutton, .2 Cabbages, 12 Pumkins, 6 Pound of Butter, 6 Couple of Stock- fi(h, and a quantity of Parfnips ; ending them fome Oatmeal, which they wanted.
From my firft fetting out from England, I did not lefign to touch at the Cape •, and that was one Rea- bn why I touch' d at Brazil, that there I might re- rem my Men, and prepare them for a long Run to New Holland. We had not yet feen the Land ; but ibout 2 in the Afternoon we faw the C^-Land rearing Eaft, at above 16 Leagues diflance : And Captain Hammond being alfo bound to double the Cape, we jog'd on together this Afternoon and the itxt Day, and had feveral fair Sights of it i which ^hichmay be feen [Table III. N°. 6, 7, 8.]
To
Colour d Clouds boding a Storm, \ To ptoceed: Having Hill a Wefterly Wind, jog'd on in company with the Antelope, till Sunda- June the 4th at 4 in the Afternoon, when we part' ed ; they fleering away for the Eaft-Indies, and ) keeping an E. S. E. Courfe, the better to make m) way for New Holland: For tho' New Holland lie; North-Eafterly from the Cape, yet all Ships bounc towards that Coaft, or the Streights of Sundy, ought to keep for a while in the fame Parallel, or maLat. between 35 and 40. at leaft a little to the S. of the Eaft. that they may continue in a variable Winds way ; and not venture too foon to Hand fo far to the North, as to be within the Verge of the Trade- Wind, which will put them by their Eafterly Courfe. The Wind increafed upon us ; but we had yet fight of the Antelope, and of the Land too, till -Tuefday the 6th of June: And then we faw alfo by us an innumerable Company of Fowls of divers forts ; fo that we look'd about to fee if there were not another dead Whale, but faw none. '
The Night before, the Sun fet in a black Cloud, which appeared juft like Land; and the Clouds a- bove it were gilded of a dark red Colour. And 'on the Tuefday, as the Sun drew near the Horizon, the Clouds were gilded very prettily to the Eye, tho* at the fame time my Mind dreaded the Confequences of it. When the Sun was now not above 2 deo-.< high, it entered into a dark Smoaky-coloured Clouci that lay parallel with the Horizon, from whence prefently feem'd toilTue many dusky blackifh Beams. The Sky was at this time covered with fmall hard Clouds (as we callfuchas lye Scattering about, not likely to Rain j very thick one by another ; and fuch of them as lay next to the Bank of Clouds at the Horizon, were of a pure Gold Colour to 3 or 4 deg. high above the Bank : From thefe to about iq deg. high they were redder, and very bright ; a- bove them they were of a darker Colour ftill, to a-
bout
A Storm. 77
>ut 60 or 70 deg. high ; where the Clouds began An. 1699. i be of their common Colour. I took the more ^"VNrf Lrticular Notice of all this, becaufe I have gene- lly obferved fuch colour'd Clouds to appear before t approaching Storm : And this being Winter ire, and the time for bad Weather, I expected and ovided for a violent blaft of Wind, by rifling our opfails, and giving a ftrict charge to my Officers hand them or take them in, if the Wind fhould ow ftronger. The Wind was now at W. N. W. very brisk Gale. About 12 a Clock at Night we ,d a pale whitifh Glare in the N. W. which was a- >ther Sign, and intimated the Storm to be near at ,nd ; and the Wind increafing upon it, we pre- itly handed our Top-fails, furled the Main-fail, d went away only with our Fore-fail. Before 2 the Morning it came on very fierce, and we kepc rht before Wind and Sea, the Wind ftill encrea- lg : But the Ship was very governable, and fleer- incomparably well. At 8 in the Morning we :tled our Fore-yard, lowering it 4 or 5 Foot, and ; ran very fwiftly ; efpecially when the Squalls of lin or Hail, from a black Cloud, came over Head, r then it blew exceffive hard. Thefe, tho' they i not laft long, yet came very thick and fall one ter another. The Sea alfo ran very high ; But J running fo violently before Wind and Sea, we ip'd little or no Water ; tho' a little wahYd into tr upper Deck-Ports ; and with it a Scuttle or jttle-Fifh was call upon the Carriage of a Gun. The Wind blew extraordinary hard all Wednefday^ e 7th of June, but abated of its fiercenefs before ight : Yet it continued a brisk Gale till about the th, and ftill a moderate one till the 19th Day •, by* lich time we had run about 600 Leagues : For the oft part of which time the Wind was in fome >int of the Weft, viz, from the W. N. W. to the by W. It blew hardeft when at W. or between
the
7$ Seafon of Weft. Winds here. Winds and Courfe,
'<*»• i6?9the W. andS. W. but after it veered more South- erly the foul Weather broke up : This I obfervec1 at other times alfo in thefe Seas, that when the Storms at Weft veered to the Southward they gre^ lefs ; and that when the Wind came to the E. of ttrt S. we had ftill fmaller Gales, Calms, and fair Wea- ther. As for the Wefterly Winds on that fide the Cape, we like them, never the worfe for being vio- lent, for they drive us the fafter to the Eaftward j and are therefore the only Winds coveted by thofe who Sail towards fuch parts of the Eaft-Indies, as lye South of the Equator ; as Timor, Java, and Sumatra*, and by the Ships bound for China, or any other that are to pafs through the Streightsof Sundy. Thofe Ships having once pall the Cape, keep com- monly pretty far Southerly, on purpofe to meet with thefe Weft-winds, which in the Winter Sea- fon of thefe Climates they foon meet with ; for then the Winds are generally Wefterly at the Cape, and efpecially to the Southward of it : But in their Sum- mer Months they get to the Southward of 40 deg. ufually e're they meet with the Wefterly Winds. I was not at this time in a higher Lat. than 36 deg. 40 min. and oftentimes was more Northerly, alterino- my Latitude often as Winds and Weather required ; for in fuch long Runs 'tis beft to fhape one's Courfe acording to the Winds. And if in fleering to the Eaft, we mould be obliged to bear a little to the N. or S. of it, 'tis no great Matter ; for 'tis but failing 2 or 3 Poin-ts from the Wind, when 'tis ei- ther Northerly or Southerly •, and this not only eafcth the Ship from ftraining, but fh or tens the way more than if a Ship was kept clofe on a Wind, as fome Men are fond of doing.
The 19 th of June, we were in Lat. 34 deg. 17 min. S. and Long, from the Cape 39 deg. 24 min. E. and had fmall Gales and Calms. The Winds were at N. E. by E. and continued in fome Part of the
E. till
towards N. Hoi. Signs of being near Land. 79
1. till the 27 th Day. When it having been fome-rf*. i60 'ime at N. N. E. it came about at N. and then to U^VsJ le W. of the N. and continued in the Weft-board Detween the N. N. W. and S. S. W.J till the 4th of uly -, in which Time we ran 782 Miles •, then the ftnds came about again to the Eaft, we reckon- lg our felves to be in a Meridian 1 1 00 L. Eaft of le Cape\ and having fair Weather, founded, but id no Ground.
We met with little of Remark in this Voyage, efides being accompanied with Fowls a]l the way, fpecially Pintado-Birds, and feeing now and then Whale : But as we drew nigher the Coaft of New- lolland, we faw frequently 3 or 4 Whales together. Vhen we were about 90 Leagues from the Land re began to fee Sea- weeds, all of one Sort -, and as t re drew nigher the Shore we faw them more fre- uently. At about^o Leagues diftance we began i fee fome Scuttle-bones floating on the Water ; rcd drawing ftill nigher the Land we faw greater Kiantities of them.
July 25. being in Lat. 26. deg. 14 min. S. and >ongitude E. from the C. of Good Hope 85 deg. 2 min. we faw a large Gar-fifh leap 4 Times by us, hich feemed to be as big as a Porpofe. It was ow very fair Weather, and the Sea was full of a - ort of very fmall Grafs or Mofs, which as it float- i in the Water feem'd to have been fome Spawn and there was among it fome fmall Fry.
f Fifh
"he next Day the Sea was full of fmall round liings like Pearl, fome as big as white Peas ; they rere very clear and tranfparent, and upon crufh- ig any of them a Drop of Water would come >rth : The Skin that contain'd the Water was fo lin that it was but juft difcernable. Some Weeds vam by us, fo that we did not doubt but we lould quickly fee Land. On the 27th alfo, fome Veeds fwam by us, and the Birds that had flown
along
F
so Whales. Skipjacks. Fowls, &c.
rA». 1699. along with us all the wayafmoft from Brazil, now W"^ left us, except only 2 or 3 Shear-waters. On the 28th We faw many Weeds fwim by us, and fome Whales, blowing. On the 29th we had dark clou- dy Weather, with much Thunder, Lightning, and violent Rains in the Morning ; but in the Evening it grew fair. We faw this Day a Scuttle-bone fwim by us, and fome of our young Men a Seal, as it fhould feem by their Defcription of its Head. I faw alfo fome Boneta's, and fome Skipjacks, a Fifh a- bout 8 Inches long, broad and fizeable, not much unlike a Roach ; which our Seamen call fo from their leaping about.
The 30th of July, being ftill nearer the Land, we faw Abundance of Scuttle-bones and Sea-weed, more Tokens that we were not far from it > and faw alfo a Sort of Fowls, the like of which we had not ieen in the whole Voyage, all the other Fowls ha- ving now left us. Thefe were as big as Lapwings ; of a grey Colour, black about their Eyes, with red iharp Bills, long Wings, their Tails long and forked like Swallows •, and they flew flapping their Wings like Lapwings. In the Afternoon we met with a Ripling like a Tide or Current, or the Wa- ter of fome Shoal or Over-fall ; but were paft it be- - fore we could found. The Birds laft mention'd and this were further Signs of Land. In the Eve- ning we had fair Weather, and a fmall Gale at Weft. At 8 a Clock we founded again ; but had no Grounds
We kept on ftill to the Eaftward, with an eafy Sail, looking out (harp : For by the many Signs we had, I did expect that we were near the Land. At 12 a Clock in the Night I founded, and had 45 Fathom, coarfe Sand and fmall white Shells. I pre- (Ghtly clapt on a Wind and ftood to the South, with the Wind at W. becaufe I thought we were to the South of a Shoal call'd the Abrohles (an Appellative
Name
a^.M& ur, "Nervr Holland
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3«* &laxh3Lotks
Abrohlo- Shoal near N.H. The A. arrives at^. H. S i
Name for Shoals, as it feems to me) which in & An. 1699: Draught I had of that Coaft is laid down in 27 deg. ;-^^r>SJ 28 min. Lat. ftretching about 7 Leagues into the Sea. I was the Day before in 27 deg. 38 min. by Reckoning. And afterwards fleering E. by S. pur- pofely to avoid it, I thought I mud have been to the South of it : But founding again, at 1 a Clock in the Morning, Aug. the firft, we had but 25 Fa- thom, Coral Rocks ; and fo found the Shoal was to the South of us. We prefently tack'd again, and Hood to the North, and then foon deepned our Water ; for at 2 in the Morning we had 26 Fathom Coral ftill : At 3 we had 28 Coral-ground .: At 4 we had 30 Fathom, coarfe Sand, with fome Coral : At 5 we had 45 Fathom, coarfe Sand and Shells ; being now off the Shoal, as appeared by the Sand and Shells, and by having left the Coral. By all this I knew we had fallen into the North of the Shoal, and that it was laid down wrong in my Sea- Chart : For I found it lye in about 27 deg. Lat. and by our Run in the next Day, I found that the Out- ward-edge of it, which I founded on, lies 16 Leagues off Shore, When it was Day we fleered in E. N E. with a fine brisk Gale ; but did not fee the Land till 9 in the Morning, when we faw it from our Topmaft-head, and were diftant from it about 10 Leagues •, having then 40 Fathom-water, and clean Sand. About 3 Hours after we faw it on our Quarter-Deck, being by Judgment about 6 Leagues off, and we had then 40 Fathom, clean Sand. As we ran in, this Day and the next, we took feveral Sights of it, at different Bearings and Diftances •, from which it appear'd as you fee in [fable IV. N°. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5.] And here I would note once for all, that the Latitudes mark'd in the Draughts, or Sights here given, are not the Lati- tude of the Land,, but of the Ship when the Sight was taken. This Morning, Augufi the firft, as we .V q l. III. G were
-
i
82 N. Hoi . in Lat.26 S. The A. ftands off again.
rAn. 1 699. were {landing in we faw feveral large Sea-fowls, like ^"VX- our Gannets on the Coaft of England^ flying 3 or 4 together ; and a Sort of white Sea-Mews, but black about the Eyes, and with forked Tails. We fcrove to run in near the Shore to feek for a Harbour to re- frefh us after our tedious Voyage •, having made one continued Stretch from Brazil hither of about 114 deg. defigning from hence alfo to begin the Difco- very I had a Mind to make on N. Holland and N¥ Guinea. The Land was low, and appear'd even, and as we drew nearer to it, it made (as you fee in Table IV. N°. 3, 4, 5.; with fome red and fome white Clifts ; thefe lafl in Lat. 26. 10 S. where you will find 54 Fathom, within 4 Miles of the Shore.
About the Lat. of 26 deg. S. we faw an Opening, and ran in, hoping to find a Harbour there : But when we came to its Mouth, which was about 2 Leagues wide, we faw Rocks and foul Ground with- in, and therefore flood out again : There we had 20 Fathom- water within 2 Mile of the Shore. The Land every where appear'd pretty low, flat and e- yen j but with fteep Clirfs to the Sea •, and when we came near it there were no Trees, Shrubs or Grafs to be feen. The Soundings in the Lat. of 26 deg, S. from about 8 or 9 Leagues off till you come within a League of the Shore, are generally about 40 Fathom ; differing but little, feldom above 3 or 4 Fathom. But the Lead brings up very different Sorts of Sand, fome coarfe, fome fine 5 and of fe- veral Colours, as Yellow, White, Grey, Brown, Blueifh and Reddifh.
When I faw there was no Harbour here, nor good anchoring, I flood off to Sea again, in the Evening of the fecond of Auguft, fearing a Storm on a Lee- fhore, in a Place where there was no Shelter, and defiring at leafl to have Sea-room: For the Clouds began to grow thick in the Weftern-board, and the Wind was already there, and began to blow frefh
almoft
Arrival at Sharks Bay in Jsf. Holland.
si
almoft upon the Shore ; which at this Place lies a- ^. 1699: long N. N. W. and S. S. E. By 9 a Clock at Night <-OTNi we had got a pretty good Offin ; but the Wind ftilj increafing, I took in my Main Top-fail, being able to carry no more Sail than two Courfes and the Mizen. At 2 in the Morning, Aug. 3. it blew ve- ry hard, and the Sea was much raifed -, fo that I furled all my Sails but my Main-fail. Tho' the Wind blew fo hard, we had pretty clear Weather till Noon : But then the whole Sky was black ned with thick Clouds, and we had fome Rain, which would laft a Quarter of an Hour at a Time, and then it would blow very fierce while the Squalls of Rain were over our Heads ; but as foon as they were gone the Wind was by much abated, the Strefs of the Storm being over^ We founded feveral Times, but had no Ground till 8 a Clock Aug. the 4th in the Evening ; and then had 60 Fathom-water, Coral-ground. At 1 o we had 5 6 Fathom fine Sand! At 12 we had $5 Fathom, fine Sand, of a pale blueifh Colour. It was new pretty moderate Wea- ther ; yet I made no Sail till Morning •, but then, the Wind veering about to the S. W. I made Sail and flood to the North : And at 1 1 a Clock the next Day, Aug. 5. we faw Land again, at about 10 Leagues diftance. This Noon we were in Lat. 25 deg. 30 min. and in the Afternoon our Cook died, an old Man, who had been fick a great while, be- ing infirm before we came out of England.
The 6th of Auguft in the Morning we faw an O- pening in the Land, and we ran into it, and ancho- red in 7 and a half Fathom-water, 2 Miles from the Shore, clean Sand. It was "fomewhat difficult get- :ing in here, by Reafon of many Shoals we met Nixh : But I fent my Boat founding before me. The Mouth of this Sound, which I cali'd Shark's Bav9 ie$ in about 25 deg: S. Lat. and our Reckoning nade its Longitude from the C. of Good Hope to G 2 be
8+ Soil of Shark's-Bay in N. Holland."
An. 1699.be about 87 Degrees ; which is lefs by 195 Leagues ^v~\i than is ufaally laid down in our common Draughts, if our Reckoning was right, and our Glaffes did not deceive us. As foon as I came to anchor in this Bay (of which I have given a Plan, Table IV. N°. 6.) I fent my Boat afhore to feek for frefh Wa- ter : But in the Evening my Men returned, having found none. The next Morning I went afhore my ielf, carrying Pick-axes and Shovels with me, to dig for Water \ and Axes to cut Wood. We tri- ed in feveral Places for Water, but finding none af- ter feveral Trials, nor in feveral Miles Compafs, we left any farther Search for it, and fpending the reft of the Day in cutting Wood, we went aboard at Night.
The Land is of an indifferent Heighth, fo that it may be feen 9 or 10 Leagues off. It appears at a Diftance very even ; but as you come nigher you find there are many gentle Rifings, tho' norte fteep nor high. ' 'Tis all a fteep Shore againft the open Sea : But in this Bay or Sound we were now in, the Land is low by the Sea-fide, rifing gradually in within the Land. The Mould is Sand by the Sea- fide, producing a large Sort of Sampier, which bears a white Flower. Farther in, the Mould is reddifh, a Sort of Sand producing fome Grafs, Plants, and Shrubs. The Grafs grows in great Tufts, as big as a Bufhel, here and there a Tuft : Being intermix'd with much Heath, much of the kind we have growing on our Commons in England, Of Trees or Shrubs here are clivers Sorts ; but none above 1 o Foot high : There Bodies about 3 Foot about, and 5 or 6 Foot high before you come to t\\t Branches, which are bufhy and compos'd of fmall Twigs there fpreading abroad, thos thick fet, and full of Leaves ; which were moftly long and narrow. The Colour of the Leaves was on one- Side whitifh, and on the other green ; and the
Bark
np .Jfry . ybrti 3
TUce -this T,8z
UtU&fy af&r.&oHatU.3?.85k
ithe head, Sc areatejh -partr of ' y neck, of -thtJ htrd is ?W, 8c -therein d%-ffer$-from -me +4^vop?tta> of I-taly .
*si C ctnotiZMxnldy . 2*.g(,
are.
OJreZiU 8&Z-ej#s. of ihu Zirlare of a £rtj-h-tR,ed,
Veg. and B. of Shark VB. A part k. fort of Cm, S $ Bark of the Trees was generally of the fame Colour ^^99- with the Leaves, of a pale green. Some of thefe Trees were fweet-fcented, and reddiih within the Bark, like Saffafras, but redder. Mod of the Trees and Shrubs had at this Time either Bioffoms or Berries on them. The Bioffoms of the different Sort of Trees were of feveral Colours, as red, white, yellow, fcfa but moftly blue: And thefe o-enerally fmelt very fweet and fragrant, as did fome alfo of the reft. There were alio befide fome Plants, Herbs, and tall Flowers, fome very fmall Flowers, growing on the Ground, that were fweet and beautiful, and for the moft part unlike any I had feen elfewhere.
There were but few Land-Fowls ^ we faw none but Eagles, of the larger Sorts of Birds ; but 5 or 6 Sorts of fmall Birds. The biggeft Sort of thefe were not bigger than Larks •, fome no bigger than Wrens, all finging with great Variety of fine flirill Notes ; and we faw fome of" their Nefts with young Ones in them. The Water-Fowls are Ducks, (which had young Ones now, this being the Begin- ning of the Spring in thefe Parts ;) Curlews^ Gal- dens, Crab-catchers, Cormorants, Gulls, Pelicans; and fome Water-Fowl, fuch as I have not feen any where befides. I have given the Piclures of 4 fe- veral Birds on this Coaft. [See Birds: Fig. 2, 3,
'The Land- Animals that we faw here were only a Sort of Raccoons, different from thofe of the Weft- Indies,, chiefly as to their Legs j for thefe have very ihort Fore-Legs ; but go jumping upon them as the others do, (and like them are very good Meat:} And a Sort of Guano's, of the fame Shape and Size with other Guano's, defcrib'd [Vol. I. p. 57-1 but differing from them in 3 remarkable Particulars; ' For thefe had a larger and uglier Head, and had no Tail : And at the Rump, inftead of the Tail, there, G 2 the}'
f
S5 Fifi of Shark'/ Bay.
j^ppthey had a Stump of a Tail, which appeared like a-
Mouth or Eyes : Yet this Creature feem'd by this Means to have a Head at each End ; and, Which may be reckoned a fourth Difference, the Legs al- fo J eem d all 4 of them to be Fore-legs, beinl all alike m Shape and Length, and feeming by the Joints and Bending to be made as if they were to go indifferently either Head or Tail foremolt. They were fpeckled black and yellow like Toads, and had Scales or Knobs on their Backs like thofe of crocodiles, plated on to the Skin, or ftuck into it, as part of the Skin. They are very flow in Moti- on ; and when a Man comes nigh them they will Itand inll and hifs, not endeavouring to get away. Their Livers are alfofpotted black and yellow : And the Body when opened hath a very unfavory Smell 1 cud never fee foci ugly Creatures any where but ftere. i he Guano's I have obferv'd to be very good Meat : And I have often eaten of them with Plea. lure; but tho' I have eaten of Snakes, Crocodiles and Alienators, and many Creatures that look frightfully enough, and there are but few I mould have been afraid to eat of, if preft by Hunger, yet I think my Stomach would fcarce have ferv'd to venture upon thefe N, Holland Guano's, both the Looks and the SrrHl of them being fo offenfive
The Sea-ffn tnat we faw here (for here was no River, Land or Pond of frelh Water to be feen) are chiefly Sharks. There are Abundance of them in tiiis particular Sound, that I therefore give it the Name of Shark's Say. Here are alfo Skates, Thornbacks, and other Fifh of the Ray-kind ; Tone Sort efpecially like the Sea-Devil) and Gar-fifh, Bo- nera s &c. Of Shell-filh we got here Mufcles, Pe- riwinkles, Limpits, Oyfters, both of the Pearl- kmd and alfo Eating-Oyfters, as well the common fcprf as long Qyilers \ befide Cockles, fcfe The
Shore
Shells, Turtle, large Shark. TheA.'s Stay in Sh.B. 8 7
Shore was lined thick with many other Sorts of very An. 1699. ftrange and beautiful Shells, for Variety of Colour ~*OrW and Shape, moft finely fpotted with Red, Black, or Yellow, Z3c. fuch as I have not feen any where but at this Place. I brought away a great many of them 3 but loft all except a very few, and thofe not of the belt.
There are alfo fome green Turtle weighing about 200 ft. Of thefe we caught 2, which the Water Ebbing had left behind a Ledge of Rock, which they could not creep over. Thefe ferved all my Company 2 Days 3 and they were indifferent fweet Meat. Of the Sharks we caught a great many, which our Men eat very favourily. Among them we caught one which was 1 1 Foot long. The Space between its 2 Eyes was 20 Inches, and 18 Inches from one Corner of his Mouth to the other. Its Maw was like a Leather Sack, very thick, and fo tough that a fliarp Knife could fcarce cut it : In which we found the Head and Bones of a Hippopota- mus 3 the hairy Lips of which were ftill found and not putrified, and the Jaw was alfo firm, out of which we pluckt a great many Teeth, 2 of them 8 Inches long, and as big as a Man's Thumb, fmall a.t one End, and a little crooked 3 the reft not a- bove half fo long. The Maw was full of Jelly, which ftank extremely: However I faved for a while the Teeth and the Shark's Jaw : The Flem of it was divided among my Men 3 and they took Care that no Wafte mould be made of it.
•Twas the 7th of Aug. when we came into Shares- Bay 3 in which we anchor'd at 3 feveral Places, and ftay'd at the firft of them (on the Weft -fide of the Bay) till the 1 1 th. During which Time we fearch- ed about, as I faid, for frefh Water, digging Wells, but to no Purpofe. However, we cut good Store of Fire-wood at this firft anchoring-place 3 and my Company were all here very well refremed with Rac- G 4. coons,
f
8S Sailing about Sharks-Bay."
^9P.coom, Turtle, Shark, and other Fifh, and fome fowls ; io that we were now all much brisker *han when we came in hither. Yet Hill I was for Handing: farther into the Bay, partly becaufe I had a Mind to mcreafe my Stock of frefh Water, which was began to be low ; and partly for the fake of difcoverW tins Part of the Coaft. I was invited to go further! by feeing from this Anchoring-place all open before rne ; which therefore I defigned to fearch before i left the Bay. So on the nth akout Noon, I
I ilr ^rther ln' with an eaiV Sail> becaufe we had but mallow Water : We kept therefore good look- ing out for Fear of Shoals ; fometimes fhortning, fometimes deepning the Water. About 2 in the Afternoon we faw the Land a-Head that makes the
ei ?i'- rBay' and before Night we had again Sholdmgs from that Shore : And therefore fhortned Sail and flood off and on all Night, under 2 Top- fans, continually founding, having never more than 10 Fathom, and feldom lefs than 7. The Water ' deepned land I fholdn