V.
Foolscap 4/0. In five -volumes. 500 copies only of this Large Paper Edition.
THE ITINERARY OF JOHN LELAND
IN OR ABOUT THE YEARS 1 535-1 543
NEWLY EDITED FROM THE MSS. BY
LUCY TOULMIN SMITH
VOL. I. Containing Parts I-III, with General Introduction, Portrait, and 2 Maps. i8j. net.
VOL. II. Containing Parts IV and V, with an Appendix of Extracts from Leland's Collectanea, and a Map. izr. net.
VOL. III. Containing Part VI (The Itinerary in Wales), with a Map. lor. 6d. net.
VOL. IV. Containing Parts VII and VIII, with 3 Maps. 12s. net.
VOL. V. Containing Parts IX, X, and XI, with 2 Maps and a complete Index to the five volumes. iSs. net.
The Volumes are supplied separately r, with the exception of Vol. Ill, which can only be obtained in sets.
LONDON: G. BELL AND SONS, LTD.
LELAND'S ITINERARY IN ENGLAND AND WALES
LONDON : G. BELL AND SONS, LTD. PORTUGAL ST. LINCOLN'S INN, W.C. CAMBRIDGE : DEIGHTON, BELL & CO. NEW YORK: THE MACMILLAN CO. BOMBAY: A. H. WHEELER & CO.
THE ITINERARY
OF
JOHN LELAND
IN OR ABOUT THE YEARS
1535—1543 PARTS IX, X, AND XI
WITH
TWO APPENDICES, A GLOSSARY, AND GENERAL INDEX
EDITED BY
LUCY TOULMIN SMITH
LONDON
G. BELL AND SONS, LTD. 1910
>
' .
O
CHISWICK PRESS : CHARLES WHITTINGHAM AND CO. TOOKS COURT, CHANCERY LANE, LONDON.
PREFACE
OF the three parts comprised in this concluding volume only one, and that the shortest, viz. Part X, is consecutive narrative, written in the personal style of those in vol. i. Taking up the tale in Oxfordshire it moves about Berkshire, Wilts, Somerset, and Glouces- tershire, ending abruptly near Shaftesbury in Dorset. Some of the places had been visited before, but this may have been a separate tour, as is indicated by the route in blue on Map II. The building of the bridge between Culham and Abingdon in 1457, noted by Leland, gave Hearne the occasion for an interesting addition from a local record detailing the manner of the whole work, worthy of attention from an economic point of view ; this will be found in the appendix to Part X. Part IX consists of many notes better classified than usual, chiefly in the more northern counties; while Part XI,1 which we owe to Stow's copy, contains many miscellaneous matters, topographical, personal, and historical, some of which formed the foundation of narrative in parts of vols. i and ii. Leland's route to the northern counties and back, partly drawn from these notes, is shown in blue on Map III. The bishops and bishoprics of Lincoln, Durham, Hereford, Canterbury
1 No omissions have been made ; it was found better to print the whole part. See vol. i, Introd., p. vi.
vii
viii PREFACE
and Worcester, are dealt with pretty fully — how far the lists are accurate must be judged by special study. I have endeavoured to point out a few errors. An interesting series of notes from the lives of English saints is taken from John of Tynemouth's " Sancti- logium," and I am glad to have identified another set of lengthy extracts as taken from the " Mappa Mundi " by Gervase of Canterbury. These extracts give with varying fullness the lists of religious houses in Eng- land, and we may take it that Leland regarded them as still of some authority in his day. They might be compared with the long particulars of religious houses gathered together by Leland in the first MS. volume of his Collectanea (second edition by Hearne, 1774, vol> i, 25-123), and with other material at Cheltenham (see my vol. ii, p. 118 note\ all being of additional interest in view of Professor Savine's recent study of the " Valor Ecclesiasticus."
Stow's copy of Part XI has itself lost eight leaves (see p. 136 note). While we are grateful for what he has preserved, it must be said that his careless Latin has given his editors much trouble. Frequent want of concord, and much mis-spelling, — partly due, no doubt, to his not understanding contractions in the MS., partly to his very casual use of vowels, and occasionally to his following the mediaeval spelling, — offended the modern scholar's sense, and Hearne took immense pains to remedy this by means of numerous little foot-notes; but even his meticulous eye grew tired and towards the end he dropped his correcting pen, or occasionally made alterations in the text with- out indicating them. This treatment seemed unneces- sarily tedious; I have therefore embodied most of
PREFACE ix
Hearne's corrections in the text without foot reference, placing a selection only of the MS. readings at the foot of the page, which serve as specimens of Stow ; and giving all cases where there is any question of meaning or identification. Comparison with the ori- ginal works quoted by Leland, where identified, has been also of much assistance. Though a few errors may occur, it is hoped that all requirements are thus fairly satisfied.
A final appendix of Welsh matter (Glamorganshire) from the manuscript of Collectanea, vol. iii, closes the volume. It should be noted that all the extracts from Collectanea which belong to the Itinerary and are printed in this edition — except that found in the Cheltenham MS. — are taken from the MS. vol. iii; the most important are the " New Year's Gift," the notes and map of the Channel Islands, a large portion on Kent (vol. iv, pp. 47-70), the curious description of Anglesea, and further notes on Wales, the last of which I regret are not all gathered together in the volume on Wales owing to my imperfect knowledge of the Collectanea at the beginning of this undertak- ing. Reference to the General Index, which has been prepared with care and revision, and to the tables of counties, will, it is hoped, supply the needed links.
For the third edition of Hearne's print of the Itiner- ary, 1768, Dr. Charles Lyttleton, bishop of Carlisle, sent a few emendations which were inserted by Mr. Pote the publisher ; three of these referring to names of places I add to the list of errata in the present volume ; others had been already made in the course of my collation.
Leland is a valuable writer for the English philo-
x PREFACE
legist, quotations from his expressive Tudor language are scattered up and down the pages of the New Oxford Dictionary. A short glossary of disused or difficult words and senses is here appended to be near at hand for the reader.
Regarding Leland himself two additions since my Introduction to vol. i have arisen. Thinking that the " commission " given him by King Henry VIII, under power of which he made his researches and journeys, might be now attainable, I have had a thorough search made once more among all the likely sources in the Public Record Office, but still without result. It does not appear on the Patent or the Close Rolls from 1533-1543, and Anthony Wood was perhaps mis- taken in affirming that it was under the " broad seal " (Introd., p. ix). — The interesting fact has been shown me by Dr. James Gairdner that John Leland in 1546 was holding from the Court of Augmentations a tene- ment in the parish of St. Botolph without Aldersgate, London, within the site of the late Charterhouse (Letters and Papers, Henry VIII, vol. xxi, Part i, p. 767). We may conjecture, therefore, that he set- tled in this house, and not in St. Michael's parish, at the end of his travels to write his works, and may have sent his " New Year's Gift " of 1 546 thence to the King ; further, that it may have been his brother John, who took charge of him during his insanity until he died, who actually lived in the parish of St. Michael le Querne, a supposition to which colour is lent by the fact that our John, the younger brother, was buried in the church of that parish. These con- jectures seem probable, but there being the two Johns we cannot tell with certainty (see Introd., pp. xiv, xv).
PREFACE xi
In conclusion it may be useful to give a note of the Leland manuscripts, or parts of manuscripts, in the British Museum l beyond those mentioned in vol. i, Introd., pp. xxviii-xxx, and in my Comparative Table in the same volume (p. xxxvi; see also vol. ii, p. 117). Some of these now indicated contain various extracts from the Itinerary ; the first two are notable on account of the eminent antiquaries William Camden and Francis Thynne, who made the respective collections. The third is a large folio, chiefly valuable because the first ninety leaves are in Leland's autograph hand; judging by size, shape, and contents they must prob- ably have once formed part of his Collectanea; the rest of the volume contains copies from various de- tached portions of the Itinerary (printed in our vols. iii, iv, v), including some of those culled from the third volume of Collectanea, and a copy of the whole of Part I; ending with ten leaves copied by William Burton from Collectanea and a letter. Perhaps the most interesting manuscript as regards the Itinerary is the Harl. 842, a small paper folio containing a number of selected extracts relating to thirty-five counties, also including the Itinerary passages from the third volume of Collectanea. The Leland portion of No. 5, one of the latest in date, is entirely devoted to extracts from the Itinerary, copied by several hands.
I add references to the manuscripts containing similar extracts from Leland's general Collectanea, apart from the Itinerary. One of these also contains a small portion in autograph (No. io).2
1 Up till April, 1909 ; I do not know of any later acquisitions.
2 Except for No. 5, in referring to the folios of manuscripts the old numeration is used.
xii PREFACE
1. Lansdowne 229; " W. Camden Miscellanea," dated 1573. Fos. 83-87^, notes from Parts IV, VI, and others of the Itinerary; fos. 88-98, or perhaps 99, " ex aliis diversis Collectaneis Johanni Leilandi."
2. Cotton MSS., Cleopatra C. iii ; catalogued, " Col- lections of Mr. Fras. Thynne." Fos. 67^-87^, ex- tracts from Part II of the Itinerary, copied 17 Dec., 1589, and signed F. Thynne. Fos. 179^, 199^-201, a few miscellaneous notes from Itinerary ; fos. 301-3 19^, extracts copied apparently by John Stow (judging by the hand and ink) from parts of Collectanea.
3. Cotton, Julius C. vi. Folio. Nearly the whole is occupied by Leland. Fos. 1-90, truly described by a later hand, " Johannis Lelandi collectiones ex anti- quissimi authoribus desumptse quae ad Britanniam spectant manu ejusdem Lelandi scriptae." Among the writers quoted are Priscian, Polybius, Tacitus, Politian, Paulus Diaconus, Diodorus Siculus, Antonini Itinerarium, and John Boscatius De stagnis et paludi- bus: these leaves, like those in the Phillipps MS. 12111 at Cheltenham, have been at some time separated from Leland's Collectanea : so far, I do not find them printed by Hearne, but this would require more investigation. After fo. 90 follow many extracts from the third volume of Collectanea, as well as some from the Itinerary, in a late sixteenth-century hand. Fos. 192- 232 contain the whole of Part I copied by another (?) seventeenth-century hand. Fos. 233-243 are copies " Ex Collectaneis," and a letter to Selden, all in the hand of William Burton.
4. Harleian 842, a small folio, of 93 leaves, paper Written by a hand of the late sixteenth or early seven- teenth century. Consists of extracts from the Itinerary,
PREFACE
Xlll
orderly arranged according to the counties of England and Wales.
5. Lansdowne 940, 4to, of 190 leaves. Fos. 122-154 (pencil numbering); a collection of extracts from various parts of the Itinerary, written by various hands of seventeenth century.
6. Lansdowne 825, fos. 19-21. Two leaves contain a partial list of names of counties and the towns along Leland's routes, taken from the parts of the Itinerary, in a large loose hand; they are endorsed on an out- side sheet, " An account of Leland's Itinerary." (Of no special value.)
7. Harleian 6193, a square folio of 290 pages, written in a fine bold hand, titles rubricated ; title on p. i, "John Leland's Commentarys of England," that on the fly-leaf, " Johannis Lelandi Collectanea," ex- presses the contents of the volume, which is filled with copies entirely, I believe, from the Collectanea.1
8. Lansdowne 963 (from Bishop Kennett's col- lection). A small 8vo. MS. of 139 leaves, written in small hand of seventeenth century; fos. \$b-i6b have a few extracts "ex Collectaneis Johannis Lelandi, MS., 4to, vol. 2," a reference which appears to point to a lost volume of Leland's notes (the known MSS. of his Collectanea being all in folio), or it may be in- tended for Part II of the Itinerary, in which, as well as in Part III, one or two of the items occur (vol. i,
1 Hearne wished to borrow all the " pieces of Leland " from Lord Harley's library, among which he notes some "originals" in Leland's hand. See Hearne to Humphrey Wanley, 23 Oct., 1714, in Ellis's ''Letters of Eminent Literary Men," Camden Soc., 1843, p. 355. I have not found any originals of the Itinerary in the Harleian collection.
xiv PREFACE
pp. 129, 265). Further extracts from the folio Col- lectanea, vol. i, occur on fos. 177 to about 186.
9. Cotton, Vespasian B. xv, fo. 40. A page contain- ing lists of witnesses from eight or nine old charters, copied " ex Lelando," probably from Collectanea.
10. Cotton, Vitellius C. ix. Fos. 234-239^ contain a copy from Leland's extracts from several old writers and his notes thereon, including the Sibilline verses on the Day of Judgment. Fos. 240-245 are in Leland's own hand, consisting of extracts from several Latin poets. It seems possible that these leaves, like others, may have dropped out of some quire of Leland's great collections.
11. Stowe 305, fo. 296. Contains an extract from Collectanea, vol. i.
12. Stowe 1048, eighteenth century. Fo. 12^, a page containing small notes from Collectanea, vol. iii.
In drawing to a close a work full of details which has occupied the spare time of many years, while I am conscious of some errors or mistakes, I can truly say I have done my best to avoid them ; the further knowledge gained in the course of editing might have improved the earlier volumes had it been possible. I hope, too, that I have omitted little of importance. It is a pleasure to acknowledge my obligations and thanks for kind help to Messrs. F. Madan of the Bodleian Library, C. E. Doble, Professors Adam Kirkaldy and A. J. Herbertson, for the long loan of working books and maps; to the Rev. Travers Herford, Mr. A. S. Buxton of Mansfield, Mr. Francis Harrison of Bath, C. L. Kingsford, Esq., Mr. R. Blair of South Shields, Mr. W. H. Stevenson, the Hon. Miss
PREFACE
xv
Bruce, Miss Fell Smith, for suggestions and assist- ance in some identifications of places; to Sir Edw. Maunde Thompson, Sir John Rhys, Dr. Craigie, and especially my old friend Sir James Murray, for valued help in explanation of certain words. Other acknow- ledgements have been made in the sections on Wales and the Channel Islands. Nor must I forget to own my gratitude to the patience and considerate friendli- ness of my kind publisher, Mr. Edward Bell, without whose encouragement I could not have carried through the work.
L. TOULMIN SMITH.
OXFORD, July 9, 1910.
CONTENTS
PAGES
Preface ........ vii
Errata xix-xx
Conspectus of English and Welsh Counties in the
five volumes xxi
Maps and Illustrations in the five volumes . . xxii Concordance of Present Edition of the Itinerary
with Hearne's printed text, 1744 . . . xxiii Glossary of the Archaic Words and Senses in the
Itinerary xxiv-xxx
Counties in this volume ..... xxxi
Comparative Table concerning Part IX . . xxxii
PART IX . » 1-68
PART X „ 69-111
APPENDIX TO PART X. Burford, Culham, and
Abingdon 113-118
PART XI 119-233
APPENDIX (WALES) 237-242
GENERAL INDEXES TO THE WHOLE WORK:
I. Index of Persons and Landowners . . 245-280
II. Index of Places and Subjects . . . 281-352
MAP II (blue route), for Part X.
MAP III (blue route), partly from Part IX.
v.
ERRATA, VOL. V
Page 8, note a., for " Amphtill " read " Ampthill."
„ 10, line 8 from bottom, for "Hampton Court" read
" Westwood in Hampton Lovet." (Bishop Lyttleton.) Page 15, note c,for " Wumbridge " read " Wombridge."
„ 28, for " Lestewich " read " Leftwich."
„ 29, for " Letewich " read " Leftwich."
„ 32 in margin, transfer " Lincolnshire " opposite " Mar-
ket-Kesten."
Pages 35, 36, for " Hutetost" read " Hutetoft." Page 46, line 5 from bottom, for " Kenne nuage " read
" Kenne ? village." Page 72, note b.^r " Besils " read " Bessels."
„ 117, line 28, after "Abendon" insert note "A verb
is omitted here, the line should read ' The good lord of
Abendon gave of his londe.' " Page 155, line i margin,/0r " Warwicks" read " Gloucester."
„ 211, line 22, for "Deus dedit" read "Deusdedit"
[proper name]. Page 223, line 25, for " parre " read " Parre."
„ 298, item Clothiers, insert " Trowbridge, i, 136 " before
"Bath."
ADDITIONAL ERRATA VOL. I
Page xviii, note 2, line 4, for " p. x, note " read " p. xxiv,
note 2." Page xxxvi " Comparative Table," in note 3, instead of the
last clause read for pages 126-145, 149-152; 161, 204,
see vol. iv, pp. 47-71, 164-167; 180-182. Page 6, line i^for "Thorfpe water mill" read "Thorfpe
Waterville."
xix
xx ADDITIONAL ERRATA
Page 25, line 6, to word "Marteres" insert note, " Mar- monstier Abbey, at Tours."
Page 136, line 3 from bottom, to word "Alexandre" insert note, " Mr. Francis Harrison of Bath suggests that Leland omitted the name Langford, no clothier surnamed Alex- ander being found in Wilts. Alexander Langford was a well-known clothier of the time and was ancestor on the mother's side of Edward Hyde, Lord Clarendon."
Page 1 88, line 3, to word " Godolcan " insert note, " Godol- phin."
Page 189, line i, to word " Ludewin " insert note, " Ludgvan." „ 189, line 8 from bottom, to word "Revier" insert note, "PGodrevy"; line 3 from bottom, to word "Tre- heddy " insert note, " Tehidy."
Page 237, line 1 1 from bottom, for " Tregor " read " Tregoz." „ 324, note *, for " Penpoll " read " Polperro."
VOL. II
Page vii, Counties, Essex, insert "p. 25." „ 25, margin, under figure " fo. 44 " insert " Essex." „ 25, note o,for " Henham " read " Castle Hedingham." „ 52, line 6, to word " Coukfeild " insert note, "Cook- hill." (Bishop Lyttleton.)
Page 62, line 10, to word " Hertlebury " insert note, " Hart- pury."
Page 90, line 20, to word " Bloxham " insert note, " Blockley." (Bishop Lyttleton.)
Page 168, line 20, for "sundator " read " fundator."
VOL. Ill
Page 1 6, note g,for " Dyvodwg " read " y Vodwg."
VOL. IV
Page 54, note a, for " Estree " read " Eastry." „ 70, line 9 from bottom, to word " Cantuarise " insert note, " That is, the Mappa Mundi by Gervase of Canter- bury. See our vol. v, p. 191 n."
Page 97, margin, jfc/- " Derby" read " Cheshire."
CONSPECTUS OF ENGLISH AND WELSH COUNTIES IN THE FIVE VOLUMES
Anglesea, vol. in. Bedfordshire, i, iv, v. Berkshire, i, n, iv, v. Buckinghamshire, i, n, v. Brecknockshire, m. Cambridgeshire, i, n. Cardiganshire, in. Carmarthenshire, in, iv. Carnarvonshire, HI. Channel Islands, iv. Cheshire, in, iv, v. Cornwall, i, iv, v. Cumberland, v. Denbighshire, in. Derbyshire, i, n, v. Devonshire, i, iv, v. Dorsetshire, i, iv, v. Durham, i, n, iv, v. Essex, n, iv, v. Flint, in.
Gloucestershire, i, n, in,iv,v. Glamorganshire, in, iv, v. Hampshire, i, n, iv. Herefordshire, n, in, iv, v. Hertfordshire, i, iv. Huntingdonshire, i, n. Kent, 11, iv, v.
Lancashire, n, iv, v. Leicestershire, i, n, iv, v. Lincolnshire, i, n, iv, v. Merionethshire, in. Middlesex, i, n. Monmouthshire, n, in, iv. Montgomeryshire, in, iv. Norfolk, i, n, iv. Northamptonshire, i, n, iv, v. Northumberland, iv, v. Nottinghamshire, i, n, iv, v. Oxfordshire, i, n, in, iv, v. Pembrokeshire, in. Radnorshire, n, in. Rutlandshire, i, iv, v. Shropshire, n, in, iv, v. Somersetshire, i, iv, v. Staffordshire, n, iv, v. Suffolk, n, v. Surrey, n, iv. Sussex, n, iv. Warwick, n, iv, v. Westmorland, iv, v. Wiltshire, i, n, iv, v. Worcestershire, n, in, v. Yorkshire, i, n, v.
xxi
MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE FIVE VOLUMES
VOL. I. FRONTISPIECE, BUST OF LELAND.
COMPARATIVE TABLE OF MANUSCRIPTS AND EDI- TIONS.
MAPS I, II (red route). II. MAP III (red route).
III. MAP OF WALES.
IV. MAP OF KENT, p. 47.
FACSIMILE MAP OF YORKSHIRE AND LINCOLNSHIRE
COASTS, p. 1 80. FACSIMILE MAP OF CHANNEL ISLANDS, p. 182;
REDUCED SKETCH OF THE SAME, p. 184. MAP III (blue route), partly from Part VII. V. MAP II (blue route), for Part X.
MAP III (blue route), partly from Part IX.
CONCORDANCE OF THE PRESENT EDITION
OF LELAND'S ITINERARY WITH
HEARNE'S PRINTED TEXT,
SECOND EDITION, 1744
Thomas Hearne
New Year's Gift, Vol. I, p. xviii. Itinerary :
Vol. I, pp. 1-76, 84-116.
Vol. I, p. 76, line 8 from bottom-83.
Vol. II, 1-85.
Appendix to Vol. VII, 105-114.
Vol. Ill, 1-119.
Vol. IV, 133, 134.
Vol. IV, Part I, 1-31.
Vol. IV, Part I, 31-55.
Vol. VII, Part I, 2, last line-7.
Vol. IV, Part II, 57-124.
Vol. IV, Appendix.
Vol. V, 1-84.
Vol. VII, 14-18.
Vol. V, 84-105, 108-118.
Vol. VI, 1-36, 83-88.
Vol. VI, 36-83. Vol. VII, Appendix, 115-137. Vol. VII, Appendix, 137-143. Vol. VII, Part I, 1-14, 19-63. Vol. V, 105, line 15-109.
Vol. VII, Part II. Vol. VIII, Part II.*
ffearne's " Collectanea" ed. 1774
Vol. IV, p. 94.
Vol. IV, pp. 85-90.
Vol. IV, 90-94.
Vol. IV, Plate of Channel Islands.
L. Toulmin Smith Vol. I, p. xxxvii.
Vol. I, Part I. Vol. I, Appendix I.
Vol. I, Part II.
Vol. I, Appendix II, pp. 315-326.
Vol. I, Part III.
Vol. I, Appendix III, 327, 328.
Vol. II, Part IV.
Vol. Ill, Part VI (Wales), 12-38.
Vol. II, Part V, 33-38, line 20.
Vol. II, Part V, 38, line 21-114.
Vol. II, Appendix.
Vol. Ill, Part VI, 38-126.
Vol. Ill, Part VI, 9-12, 53-57.
Vol. IV, Part VII.
Vol. IV, Part VIII, 37-47, line 4,
and 71, line 7 from bottom- 143. Vol. IV, Appendix I. Vol. IV, Part VIII, 47-71. Vol. IV, Appendix II. Vol. V, Part IX, 1-56, 60-68. Vol. V, Part IX, 56, line 18-60,
line 23.
Vol. V, Part X and Appendix. VoL V, Part XI.
Itinerary, L. T. Smith
Vol. Ill, p. 127, Appendix A. Vol. Ill, 129-134, Appendix B. Vol. V, Appendix, 237-242. Vol. IV, Appendix III.
* Part I consisted of the fragments bound in the MS. Vol. VIII, which were in this second edition distributed into the text.
xxin
GLOSSARY
OF THE PRINCIPAL ARCHAIC WORDS AND SENSES IN THESE VOLUMES
NOTE. — The references are intended for illustration; they do not neces- sarily include every example of a word. N.E.D. indicates that a definition is taken from the New English Dictionary.
Accustumer, the, of Bridgewater, collector of customs or dues, i, 163. Achelei stones, acheler or ashlar, hewn stones, v, 94. Adcertenid, assured, i, 167.
After, afterwards, "after, he was redemed," iv, 141. Al-to, all, quite, "al to minischyd and tome," iii, p. 43. Arere, to raise ; the way was raised with the earth cast up out of the dykes, v, 117.
Baches, beach or shingle, iv, 67.
Bal, Celtic word, ton or town, v, 52.
Balinger, a small sea-going vessel, apparently a kind of sloop, N.E.D.,
i, 317.
Balissed, balasted, i, 50.
Balkynge ground, a ridge left at the end of furrows?, ii, 109. Barnes, children, v, 116. Batable ground on one side the Esk river, debatable or disputed land
on the Scottish border, v, 51, 53. Beche, beach, iv, 48. Bekyn, beacon, i, 59.
Derail, crystal or glass used for glazing windows, v, 155. Bid, verb, to pray, v, 118. Boote, probably here signifies boat, iv, 64; the form boote is found in
i, 51-
Bord clothes, table cloths, v, 117.
Boteres, buttresses, i, 167 (cf. Old French bouterez, plural). Bowys, arches of a bridge, v, 116. Braye, a fals braye, "an advanced parapet surrounding the main
rampart," N.E.D. , i, 316. Breed, breadth, v, 117. Bremely, clearly, distinctly, v, 155.
xxiv
GLOSSARY
XXV
Bullatike (French bullatique) hand, writing like that used in Papa
bulls, iv, 94.
Bunks, perhaps an error for banks, which makes better sense, v, 117. Burbolt-shot, an estimate of distance, from bird-bolt, a blunt-headed
arrow used for shooting birds, i, 131. But shot, i.e., a butt-shot, a measure of distance, "a good but shotte
off," iii, 109; v, 90. Bygge, bigge, barley, iv, 12, 32.
Cantref, or hundred, a division of a county in Wales, iii, 1-9. See
Commote. Car, carre, a pond or pool, sometimes in moorish land, i, 51 ; iv, 32
v, 144.
Carnary, a charnel vault or house, i, 184, 270. Caryke, carrack, a large ship of burden or warfare, iv, 48. Causey, cawsey, a causeway, a raised way formed on a mound across
low wet ground, bog or marsh, N.E.D., ii, 101 ; v, no, 144. Causey, verb, bridge "well cawsied with stone at both ends," ii, 109. Champaine, champayne ground, plain, open country, without hills
or woods, perhaps unenclosed, i, 27, 130; ii, 52; iii, 102; v, 8l,
97-
Chart, a map, iv, 125; v, 44. Cheping-, Cheaping or Chipping, as prefix to the name of a town,
indicates a market town, Cheping-Faringdon, i, 125; Chipping-Sod-
bury, i, 130; Chiping-Norton, ii, 38. Chisil, gravel or shingle, The Chisil or Chesil, a shingly beach, i, 242,
243-
Ciffenes, sieves for meal, from cyve, a sieve, v, 129. Clive, sub., a cliff, v, 101.
Clyve, verb, to rise or climb, clyvid, iii, 14; clyving, iv, 136. Clyving, sub., seems to mean a cleft in this case, iv, 133. Choclea, a spiral staircase, i, 96. Coferer, cofferer or treasurer, ii, 39, 77. Cokid = cocked, pryed or looked about, v, 116. Commote, a territorial division in Wales, two or three of which were
contained in a cantred or cantref, iii, pref. viii n. , 19, 93. Comprobation, confirmation, v, 72. Coningly, cunningly, wisely, skilfully, ii, 87. Conducte of water, a conduit, i, 220, 278; iv, 25. Conscend, to ascend or mount (a hill, etc.), i, 133. 148, 174. Consuete, accustomed, usual, v, 129. Coppe, the top, i, 151. Cootes, cotes, i.e., salt-cotes, salt-houses or furnaces, where salt is
made, ii, 93; iv, 10, II. Couchid, placed, set down, i, 154. County, Count or Earl, i, 327.
Coyletts, quillets, small (? inferior) plots or strips of land, ii, 62. Coyte, a quoit, "a coyte- or stone-cast," a measure of distance, iv,
113- Grayer, a small trading vessel formerly used, iv, 88.
XXVI
GLOSSARY
Creek, verb, the water "crekith," turns or bends, "creking," i, 198,
204. Custumer of Hampton, collector of customs or dues, v, 278. See
Accustumer.
Dedignation, disdain, displeasure, ii, 31.
Deflorichid, despoiled, ravaged, iii, 41.
Degres, degrees, steps (in Canterbury Cathedral), iv, 38.
Departith, departs or separates, i, 13.
Disparkle, verb, disparkelid, disparklid, scattered or dispersed, i,
82, 124; iv, 76, 77.
Dition, rule, sway, i, 68. See also iv, 184, 186, 187. Dok or bosom, a dock; " apparently a creek or haven in which ships
may lie on the ooze or ride at anchor, according to the tide," N.E.D.,
i, 51.
Dole, grief, sorrow, v, 116. Duello, a duel, iv, 148. Dukke, a duck, iv, 84.
Egge, edge, i, 23.
Entaylid, intaglio, engraved, v, 53. See Intayle.
Bring, ploughing, from ere, a variety of ear, to plough, v, 46.
Escrye, out-cry, battle-cry, iv, 125; scry, iv, 97.
Fauburge, a faubourg or suburb (apparently equivalent to a " borough foreign "), ii, 86.
Fletithe, fleatith, verb, to fleet, said of waters, to flow, i, 31; ii, 81.
Flette, floated, v, 116.
Flite shot, a flight-shot, the flight of a shot-arrow, a measure of dis- tance, ii, 66; iv, 50, 98; v, 101; "two flite shots," i, 67, 96.
Force, a fort or strong castle, i, 201.
Forcid, strengthened, fortified, i, 96, 100, 319.
Foster, forester (to Penkridge Chase), v, 22.
Frerenhay, the Friars' enclosure, i, 228.
Frith, frith park, a game preserve or deer park, i, 20, 108; ii, 80 «.
Fulled, baptized, or washed, v, 116.
Gabylle, a cable, rope, i, 49.
Gainest way, the straightest, most direct way, i, 51.
Gere, gear, i.e., matter or subject, iv, 64.
Gesse, I guess, i.e., I am pretty sure, I think, i, 98; I judge, 108.
Gill, a stream in a narrow ravine or glen, v, 138.
Hard, adv. and prep., hard at, v, 105; harde by, 104; hard on, 106;
harde withyn, 106; i.e., just or close at, by, on, within. Hard, adj., in phrase " to the hard ground," to the very ground, v, 104. Harte brinynge, heart-burning, v, 155. Havenet, a small haven, i, 51. Heend, polite, v, 116. Hem, them, v, 117, 118. Her, their, v, 116.
GLOSSARY
XXVll
Heyne, a saving, niggardly man, iv, 143.
Hiereward, perhaps an error for hithe-ward, the keeper of the hithe, v, 117.
Hillinge, rising, ascending, v, 71.
Holme, a little isle or islet in a river or lake, or near the mainland, iv, 33, 136.
Hope. Leland says "hopes or becks," i, 77, or "small brooks," v, 139 ; according to the N.E.D. the hopes are the small valleys running down from the hills and opening into a main vale, in each of which a brook or burn runs. This answers the description in the text.
Howys, howe, a hoe, = mattock or pickaxe, v, 116.
lied, past part, of verb to isle, "when Thanet was full iled," i.e., was
entirely an island, iv, 61. Indubitately, undoubtedly, v, 81. Intayle, engraved or carved work?, v, 129. See Entaylid. Cf. the
paragraph on ' ' Woulsingham Market," with the next but one as to
the marmoratum at Durham.
Isled, said of a church, "very elegant and isled," i.e., aisled, i, 148. I-wysse, certainly, v, 117.
Keching, kechyn, kitchen, i, 40, 53.
Kenning, a marine measure of about twenty miles, i, 191, 201, 222;
iv, 1 88. Kefinnithes, Welsh kyffinieu (Dr. J. G. Evans), glossed by Leland
cowfinia, confines or boundaries, iii, 15; he '.mistakes kefinnith, a
plural form, for the singular (cf. kyffin, a limit), and so uses it several
times, iii, 16, 17, 18.
Keyes or peres, quays or piers, i, 318, 324. Knappe, top or summit of a hill, i, 174.
Laving, verb, to lave, baling, v, 117.
Laund, an open space among woods, N.E.D., i, 13; as place-name,
21.
Lesys, a form of leasows, leasow, meadow or pasture land, i, 38. Limes, limit or boundary, i, 13 ; iv, 32. Lin, a linn, waterfall or torrent, but Leland here uses it for a small
stream in low land, i, 95. Ling, a kind of heather, iv, 32 ; v, 66. Lingy, covered with ling, or heather, i, So. Lover, louver, a "lantern" or erection on the roof of a hall, with
lateral holes to let out the smoke, N.E.D., i, 139. Lumbe, lome, a weaver's loom, i, 132.
Marchanties, merchandise, i, 206. Mareed, error fo<- marred, dirtied, v, 116. Market-stede, market-place, ii, 69.
Mediamnes, little isles formed in the middle of a river, i, in, 120; ii, 63.
xxviii GLOSSARY
Merche, march, smallage or wild celery which grows on marshy places,
v, 6.
Mole, a mass, great piece (of stone), v, 46. Mownde, a fence or hedge, v, 117. Mynion, minion, elegant, fine, iv, 33.
Nelyd, i.e., annealed, glazed or enamelled by fire, iv, 131. Nesch of sand, neck of sand; perhaps soft piece is intended, iv, 59. Nesse, a headland or cape; also used as a verb, to grow into a ness,
iv, 67.
Nex, aphetic form of annex, v, 178. Next, nearest, i, 50. Nobilitate, verb, to ennoble, nobilitating, iv, 100, in; notablitatyd,
v, 223, probably an error of the scribe.
Of, off, iv, 23, 61, 73 (nyne myles of).
Owre, ore of metal, v, 129; owrische soyles, containing ore.
Paradise, " a little studiyng chaumber caullid Paradice," i, 46.
Pecoyse, a peck or pick-axe, v, 117.
Peninsulatid, so surrounded by rivers as to form a peninsula, i, 131.
Picard, picart, a small sailing vessel formerly used for coasting or river traffic, i, 170; ii, 57; iv, 136.
Pies, magpies, i, 123.
Pill, a local name for a tidal creek, or a pool in a creek or at the con- fluence of a tributary stream, N.E.D. ; Cornwall, and the Severn, i, 200, 204, 206, 207.
Pill, a castlet or small building?, v, 134.
Pill, verb, to pillage, rob, or strip bare, iv, 121.
Piramis, i.e., pyramid, a spire, pinnacle, obelisk, or gable, i, 81, 131 ; ii, 96; v, 73, 78.
Pirle of water, a bubbling brook or small stream, i, 175, 301.
Plaschsy, marshy or swampy, i, 116.
Place, commune, common pleas, iv, 75.
Pointel, a style or pointed instrument for writing on tables, i, 132.
Policy, improvements made by human skill and labour (as we should now say civil engineering); Leland applies it to drainage of land or the diversion or improvement of rivers, i, 30, 147, 206; v, 90.
Porturid, portrayed or pictured, i, 72, 124.
Practized, intrigued, schemed, or plotted, ii, 62.
Quaterfors, a place where four streets meet, quadrivium (like "Car- fax" in Oxford), ii, 41, 57.
Querry, quarry, v, 116.
Quick, lively, stirring, i, 243; v, 38, 39; "a quyk mownde," a quick- set or living hedge, v, 117.
Ragusey, an argosy or great merchant ship, iv, 60. Redid, verb, to reed, to cover a roof with reeds, v, 34.
GLOSSARY xxix
Resort, verb, often said of water, or one river running into another,
i, 90, 168; or into the sea, 177. Rhe, a river, overflowing water, v, 36, 76.
Rige, here a man's back, " clothed ... for bed and for back," v, 118. Rokkettes, small rocky isles (under water), i, 318. Ruffelar, a vagabond of the sixteenth century, iv, 80. Rughe, rough, iii, 13. Rype, ripe, the bank of a river or brook, i, 184; v, 80, 81.
Saufte, safety, iv, 146.
Scry. See Escrye.
Se-coal, sea-coal, coal found open in cliffs of the sea-shore, v, 140.
This is one explanation, but it does not agree with many uses of the
word.
Sele, verb) to ceil, to line roof or walls with wood or plaster, v, 83. Shippeletts, small vessels, i, 177, 242; iv, 88. Shoute out gunns, to place guns (on a tower) for shooting, ii, 40. Shrodly pillid (shrewdly pillaged), maliciously stripped bare, iv, 121. Sidenham, error for sidenhand, or sidehand ; adverbial phrase, a-siden-
hand, lying on one side of, i, 9. N.E.D. Skill, verb> to reason, to understand, i, 135. Skirmouch, skirmish, iv, 124. Sieve, cleft or parting; "sieve of the ocean," the part of the English
Channel between Brest and Cornwall, i, 2OI. Slypes, slips, narrow strips of woodland, v, 73. Smoulderid, smothered to death in a crowd, i, 5. Sodde, past tense of verb to seethe, iv, 10. Sparkelid, scattered or dispersed, iii, 38; iv, 5«., 136. Spilled, damaged, destroyed, iii, 1 10. Stagne, a pond or lake, i, 75. Staple, a market, i, 168, 169. Stiliard, steelyard, merchants of the steelyard, a famous guild of
foreign merchants in England, connected with the Hanseatic League,
iv, 114. Strete, street, meaning a village or small place not being a market
town; thorough-fare is also used in the same sense, ii, 113. Stripe, a blow, a wound caused by beating, iii, 90; strips, v, 3. Suoping, swooping, said of a river sweeping along, v, 79. Suarved, swerved, turned aside, iii, 109. Also swarve, to fill up, to
choke with sediment, which seems to be the meaning in i, 61.
Tainters, tenters or stretchers used in the making of woollen cloth,
i, 82 (cf. tenter- hooks). Thakkid, thatched, iv, 26; v, 34. There, where, v, 116.
Thrwghe-fayre, through fare, a village, ii, 106, 113. See Strete. Thwartheth, passes athwart or across, v, 51. Tophe, towfe stone, "full of pores and holes lyke a pummice," a
quarry of this stone at Dursley resembling volcanic tufa, iv, 130;
v, 96.
xxx GLOSSARY
Tracte, delay; slow, long drawn out, iv, 134.
Translate, to change, to alter, said of houses or buildings, i, 104, 105,
163-
Trowehes of lead, troughs or coffins, i, 50. Tukkyng miles, i.e., tucking mills, fulling mills used in finishing cloth,
v, 96 (tucker, West of England for a fuller).
Upper, adv., higher up, i, 176; ii, 189, 194, 203.
Verry, verrey, vaire, a term in heraldry for a kind of fur, i, 159
(thrice). Vouess, woues, woves, a vowed nun, i, 109, 112, 124.
Wag mier, wagmore, quagmire, i, 107, 205.
Waged a wed, promised a pledge, v, 117.
Walls, i.e., Wales, v, 178.
Wai yee. This appears to be one of Leland's erroneous attempts at etymology. One end of the great Roman Wall is near Bowness on the Solway Firth, the other at Wallsend on the Tyne ; it is possible that, writing from his notes, he confused the names of the two places,
v, Si- Water, often used instead of river or brook, i, 62, 256, 258. This was
still done in Ireland fifty years ago. See " William Allingham's Diary,"
1907, p. 46.
Waye = weigh, a lever, v, 116. Weges, wedges, v, 116. Wene, to think, suppose, iv, 25.
Witriding, outriding men, Border marauders or thieves, v, 62 and n. Wose, ooze, wet mud, iv, 61 ; whosy, oozy, muddy, as in the bed of a
river or the sea, iv, 49; v, 91. Woves. See Vouess.
Yerth coal, earth or dug coal in distinction from charcoal, iv, 14.
COUNTIES IN THIS VOLUME
Bedfordshire, pp. 7, 8, 150.
Berkshire, pp. 75-79; Appendix to Part X, 113-118.
Buckinghamshire, pp. 7, 233.
Cheshire, pp. 6, 23-30, 223.
Cornwall, p. 6.
Cumberland, pp. 50-56, 61.
Derbyshire, pp. 31, 32.
Devonshire, p. 230.
Dorsetshire, pp. 44, 107-109, no, in, 221.
Durham, pp. 48, 49, 65, 125, 127-132.
Essex, pp. 167-170.
Glamorganshire, Appendix, pp. 237-242.
Gloucestershire, pp. 84, 86-96, 98-102, 156-160, 220, 221.
Herefordshire, pp. 160-167, 175-178, 181-185, 188, 190,
191.
Kent, pp. 210-218. Lancashire, pp. 40-46, 50, 221, 222. Leicestershire, pp. 148, 222. Lincolnshire, pp. 5, 32-38, 120-123, 223- Northamptonshire, p. 224. Northumberland, pp. 49, 56-68, 126, 145. Nottingham, p. 147.
Oxfordshire, pp. i, 71-75, 76, 113, 119,- 124, 231-233. Rutlandshire, p. 145. Shropshire, pp. 12-18, 189. Somersetshire, pp. 84, 85, 97, 102-106, 109. Staffordshire, pp. 18-23. Suffolk, pp. 172, 173. Warwickshire, pp. 10-12, 150-156. Westmorland, pp. 46-48, 146, 147. Wiltshire, pp. 79-83, 96, 97, 106. Worcestershire, pp. 8-10, 220, 224-230. Yorkshire, pp. 38-40, 49, 132-136, 138-145, 146.
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THE ITINERARY OF JOHN LELAND. PART IX *
Comentaria Anglia.^
T OHN of Seint Helen's, so cawlyd becawse he dwelte in Stow, v, J S. Helyn's paroche in Abyndon, was the firste beginner fo. 107. and makar of the great bridge of stone over Isis at Abbindon. Abbyngton. Afore his tyme it was a fery.
The makynge of this bridge was a great hinderaunce to the towne of Walyngforde, whithar the trade was of them that came out of Glocestar-shire : but now they passe by Abingdon.
[* Leland's MS., vol. vii. This volume as we now have it is evi- dently not in its original state, leaves 7 to 31 inclusive are wanting; it seems to have consisted of quires and loose leaves, which were prob- ably bound together by Burton. Some of these loose leaves were gone before he had the papers, as we may judge by what he copied in 1641 (Burton (a), Gough, gen. top. 2, fos. 224-232) compared with Stow's copy of 1576 (Tanner, 464, vol. v, 107-148); and by the same standard we see that he mixed up the early leaves, which contain miscellaneous notes and are not in the original order followed by Stow. Burton bound some of the leaves (fos. 22-31) into vol. v of Leland's MS., apparently because they treat of some Welsh counties (see "Leland in Wales, ' p. 57) ; others of the lost leaves also contained notes on Wales, and are only known in Stow's copy ; both these groups were copied consecu- tively by Stow, but one was printed by Hearne in his vol. v, the other left in his vol. vii. In the present edition all the Welsh notes are trans- ferred to our Part VI, pp. 53-66. The first pages of miscellaneous notes above are restored to the order followed by Stow, as that most probably right. The Table on the opposite page shows the relative positions of these passages.
(In his vol. vii, pp. 7-14, for part of these passages Hearne gives side references to fos. 14-27, as though he were printing from Leland's original ; but I cannot find that these leaves exist, and therefore give Stow's folios only. In my vol. i, pp. 121, 122, notes, fo. 14 is thus an error.)]
[t The following pages, 1-7, are found in Stow only, fos. 107-111 see Table opposite.]
V. B
2 LELAND'S ITINERARY
This John de Seint Helen lyvyed about the begininge of the reigne of Henry the 6.
This John buildyd the faire hospitall by S. Helens in Abyngdon, and gave L. //. lands by yere to the maynteyn- aunce of it and the bridge.
The bridge of archid stone at Dorchestar is but a new thinge to speke of, and there was a ferrey at highe watars over Tames, and the bridge of Abingdon semithe to have bene the . . .
Bullingbroke. Gul. de Romara, Erie of Lincolne, was lord and ownar of Bullingbroke Castle in Lincolneshire. Syns it was told me that there were 2. cantuaris in the paroche churche of Bullyngbroke of the Romares fundation latly supressyd. Nnvborowe. There is at Seint Salviors at Newborow in Yorkeshire a great paintynge or table in the prior or abbats chambar yet stondinge of all the whole desente and linage of the Moubrays. Mastar Dr. Bellaziz * may send for a copy of it. Mastar Stapleton of London, brothar in law to Sir Thomas Wharton, tolde me that the comon opinion of the people aboute Perith is that Da Raby Erie of Westmerland made muche of the castle that now standith at Perith.a
He tolde me also that Darabies armes were and be in dyvers partes of the doungein in the castelle of Cairlues; where apon he conjectithe that it was reedified by hym.
The castle of Shrobbesbyry is set so that it is in the very place where the towne is not defendid with Severne, els the towne were totally environyd with watar.
Dortington. Dartyngton, the fayre and goodly lordshipe by Totnes in Devonshire, was the Lorde of Audleys, sens by attayntur the Doke of Excester, namyd Holland, that cawsyd his hole howsholde there to drinke wyne browght out of Fraunce. He was Admirall of England, and Sir Baldwine Fulfirte a Knight of the Sepulchre was his undar admiralle.
Corteney Marquese of Excestar had a late this Dart- ington. Horseley. Est Horseley, a mile from Weste Horseley, in Suthrey,
[* Dr. Anthony Belasyse held many grants of monastery lands among which were those of Newburgh priory.]
a Penrith.
PART IX 3
longyd to the Bysshope of Excester, where is a praty lytle manar place. Lacy, Bysshope of Excestar in Henry the 5. and 6. dayes lay sometyme at this howse. This Lacey was dene of Henry the 5. chapell at the battayle of Agincorte. This Lacey made the haule of Excester Place in London.
Talbot Erie of Shrobbesbyri and his sonne Lord Lisle slayne in Fraunce. This erles bones were browght out of Normandy to Whitchurche in Shrobbeshire.
Talbot next erle to hym slayne at Northampton fild, takynge Kynge Henry the 6. parte.
This erle had 5. sonnes, John (that had to wyfe the dowghtar of the Duke of Bukyngham, slayn at Northampton) dyed Erie of Shrobbesbery passynge in jorney at Coventrie. fo. 108. James that dyed of strips taken at Northampton feelde; but he cam first to Shiffenol a in Shrobbshire a 2. miles from Tonge, where the erles of Shrobbesbyre had a manar place of tymbar and a parke.
George Erie of Shrobbesbyri was borne at Chifenolle.
Gilbert the 3. sonn Knyght of the Gartar and Depute of Calays in Henry the 7. dayes, and lyeth buried at White- churche, and there is a chauntery made by hym. He was embassador to Rome with Abbat Bere of Glesteinbyri for Kynge Henry the 7. This Gilbert was sore woundyd at Bosworthe, takynge Kynge Henry the 7. parte.
Syr Christopher, persone of Whitechurche was the 4.
Syr Humfrey Talbote Knyght was the 5. He usyd Calays.
Anne sistar to the aforesayde 5. britherne by the erle was maried to Ser Henry Verney of Thonge, where she is buried in the coledge with hir husbond.
Margaret dowghtar to the erle, and sistar to the afore- sayde 5. brithern was wyfe to Chawort a gentleman of Darbyshire.
John Erie of Shrobbsbyry had 2. sonnes, George and Thomas.
Thomas dyed without ysswe.
George erle had to wyfe the dowghtar of the Lorde Hast- ings that was behedid in the Towre, and had dyvers men and wymen children.
» Shifnal.
4 LELAND'S ITINERARY
The late Erie of Comberland marled Margaret Georgys dowghtar.
And an othar was maried to the last Erie of Northumbar- land. The Lord Dacres maried an othar.
Fraunces now Erie of Shrobbesbyri.
The old Lorde Hastings that was behedyd in the Towre had a sonne Lorde Hastings, that had to wife the dowghtar and heire of the Lorde Hungreforde.
The old Lord Hastings had also a sunne caulyd Richard, a knight that maried the Lady Savelle.
William also was sonn to the olde Lorde Hastyngs.
The olde Lorde Hastings had also a dowghtar that was wyfe to George Erie of Shrobbesbyri.
Hastings Lorde Hastinges, the old Lord Hastings sonne and heire, had by hir Lord Hastings now Erie of Hunt- yngdon.
He had also a dowghtar wyfe to the Erie of Darby mothar to the Erie of Darby now lyvynge.
Hastyngs Erie of Huntendune had to wife Anne dowghtar to the Duke of Buckyngham, behedyd at Saresbyri. The othar dowghtar of this Duke of Buckyngham was the first wyfe to the Lord Fitzgwalter.
Hastings sonne and heire to the Erie of Huntingdune maried the late Lorde Mountecutes dowghtar. The Lord Stafford maried the Lorde Mountecuts sistar.
The Duke of Yorke sunne caullyd Edward nevar tooke greatar name at the begininge of his warres agayne Kynge Henry the 6. but the name of the Erie of Marche; untyll that one Parre brought hym a 15. C. men to go with hym to ... felde, and proclaymed hym as he went for kynge.
Mastar Feelde told me that there rennithe a mighty fo. 109. longe diche from . . . toward Lichet Maletravers a in Dorsete- shire.
I saw in a roulle of the highe lordshipes of the Duke of Yorke at Mastar Garters thes names folowing: Cunsborowb Castelle; Clifford Castle; the lordeshipe of the faire Maide of Kent. Mastar Gartar told me that Quinborow Castell in Kent was of this hold; but he shoid me not how, or who shuld be this faire Maide of Kent.
a Lychett Matravers. b Conisbrough.
PART IX 5
There is a grete hill, or rigge, that stretchethe in lengthe from Glassenbyry on to within 2. miles of Bridgewatar, and is the very highe way to passe from the one from * the othar of them.
This balke or hille is of breadthe to speke of, and of eche syde of it lyethe low marche ground.
Brent Merche goynge from Glassenbyri lyethe on the right hand, and . . . marchis on the left hand.
The howses of the order cawlyd Sauiniacensis, otharwyse Fratres Grisei, were aftar reducyd on to the ordre caullyd Cistertiensis. Stratforde in Essex was of this ordre by the foundatyon of Montfichet. This howse first sett emonge the low marsches was aftar with sore fludes defacyd, and remevid to a celle, or graunge, longynge to it caullyd Burgestede* in Estsex, a mile or more from Billirica.
Thes monks remainid at Burgstede untyll entrete was made that they might have sum helpe otherwyse. Then one of the Richards, Kings of England, toke the ground and abbay of Strateforde in to his protection, and reedifienge it browght the foresayde monks agayne to Stratford, where amonge the marches they reinhabytyd.
One Agatha, dowghtar and heire to the Lorde Tresbur, had 2. husbonds. Gul. de Albeneio was the one. She was buried in the priory of Newstede by Stamford. The Lord Tresbor gave in his armes 3. bolts.
Stoke Dawbeney is in Northamptonshire hard by Rokyng- ham Forest a 2. miles from Pipwell Abbay.
The northen men brent miche of Staunford towne. It Lincoln- was not synce fully reedified. shire.
Staunford was privilegyd but in Kynge Edward's dayes for a borow, as concerninge a place in the Parliament Howse.
Yet it was a borow towne in Kynge Edgares dayes, and then and syns it hathe all way longyd to the Crowne.
There were 7. principall towers or wards in the waulls of Staunford, to eche of the whiche were certeyne freholders in the towne allottid to wache and warde in tyme of neadde.
* [Ste; it should be to.]
a Burstead
6 LELAND'S ITINERARY
Cornwall. Where as I writte in the qwaires of Cornwalle that Fawey was caullyd in the olde Cornische, Cowwath, make it Fawathe.*
Cheshire. The chefe occasion, and the originale by likelihod, of the manifolde poolys and lakes in Chestershire, was by digginge of marie for fattynge the baren grownd there to beare good corne. To the whiche pitts the faulle of the waters there- about and springs hathe resortyd, and bysyds the grownd there beynge so depely dikid there be many springs risynge naturally in them.
There be tokens in Chestershire of dy verse salt pitts be- fo. 1 10. syde them that be commonly now usyd; as by Cumbermere in a wood, and at the Dyrte Wiche a a late a new pitte besyde the old decayed, and at Aldresey a poore village of a 6. howses a 4. mile from Malpace in the way almost to Chestar muche by weste hathe bene a salt pit, but now decayed, as almoste in tyme owt of mynde.
Suche firre trees overthrowne and coverid with bogge and merche as be in Chestershire, Lancastershire and Shrobbe- shire be found in some places of the Isle of Oxolme.b
Terre Mone is about a 24. miles in lengthe and 21. in bredthe, yet the comon voice makethe it almoste egale in lengthe and bredthe.
Luggershaull sumtyme a castle in Wileshire 10. miles from Marleborow, and a 4. miles from Andover almoste in the waye betwixt. The castell stoode in a parke now clene downe.
There is of late tymes a pratie lodge made by the ruines of it, and longgithe to the kyng.
A cardinale (Drapar) t and archepisshope of Cantorbyri gave a 1000. markes or //. to the erectynge of London Bridge.
Kynge John gave certeyne vacant places in London to builde on for buildinge and reparation of London Bridge.
A mason beinge master of the bridge howse buildyd a fundamentis the chapell on London Bridge a fundamentis propriis impensis.%
* [See vol. i, p. 203.] [t This word is interlined.]
[t A whole page here blank.]
a Droitwich.
b Axholme.
PART IX 7
Bukingham. Bucks.
Ailesbyri 5 miles from Notele" is a good market toune fb. m. havynge one paroche churche and a howse of gray friars, it stondithe on a lytle broke, and is a mile from Tame streme.
Wikam.
Chilterne Hilles. Leiand, vii,
From Henle in Oxfordshire to Wikam b in Bukingham- fo- $' shire an viii. myles. From Wikam to Dunstaple in Bedford- shire a xviii. miles. Al this way goeth Chilternhilles, wherof many be welle replenishid with wood, and partely with corne, al the soile being a chalke clay.
Ryvers in Bokinghamshire. fo. 6.
Use or Ise.
• Another Use, or Ise,c as of one principal arme risith abowt Westewikam owt of one of the Chilterne hilles, and so cum- mith by Wikam the market towne.
The lesse arme is cawllid Higdenbrooke, and risith also in one of Chilterne hilles a mile above Wikam.
Bothe these streames meate at the west ende of Wikam, and thens the hole botom with one water goith to Hedon, so to Owburne,d wher the Bishop of Lincoln hath a fair howse, and thens a mile and more into the Tamise.
Market Towns in Bedfordshire. Leiand, vii,
Bedford. *£•£
Bigelswade a 2. miles from Warden6 Abbay, a good market f0°7i'i b. and 2. faires. Beds.
Shefforde a 3. miles from Bedforde, and a mile from Chyksand Priory.
Luton a very good market town for barlye.
Ham(ptel.)f
Oineys.*
Potton.
Owborne.h
Dunstaple.
a Notley Abbey. b Wycombe. c Wye r.
d Woburn. e Old Warden. f Ampthill.
B Olney, now in Buckinghamshire. h Woburn.
8 LELAND'S ITINERARY
Beds. Castelles yn Bedfordshire,
^ean , ^g castej Qf BecjfOrd har(j by the towne, now clene gtow down. There is a place caullid Falxherbar * agayn the castel. fo. 112. Betwixt Kinges Grose yn the midle way to Newenham and the castel were founde many bones of men buried.
The castle of Hamtel." The Lorde Fanope, a man of greate fame in owtewarde warres, and very riche, buildid this house.
Odel b Castel, now nothing but straunge ruines, longging to the Lord Bray. Odel town ys by the castel, and ys as yt wer an viii. myles from Bedford, and by Harold nunnery about a mile of. This Odel was a barony.
Castel Parke a myle from Laundon c Abbay [priory], and Landon is withyn a myle [of] Olney. This parke longgid to the Souches, but now lately sold to the Lord Mordant Peraventure this Launden Castel.
Risingho hard by Castel Mille on Use. It longgid to Warden Abbay, now to Mr. Gostewik.f
Adingreves wher be tokens of diches, wher sum fortres hath bene by Use Ryver, a mile or 2. from Risingho. fo. 4. isis otherwise Use.d Olneye Water. Undal Water.6
St°w> Market townes in Wicestershire.
fo. ii2b.
Wicestre on Severn.
Eovesham apon Avon Ryver xii. miles from Wicestre. Brammisgrove £ x. miles northe from Wicestar. Persore g apon Avon vi. miles from Wicestar. Kiddermister apon Stowre River xii. Mils toward north- east from Wicestre.
[* Probably once the dwelling of Falco de Breant, on whom King John bestowed the castle. Lewis's Topography.]
[t This seems to be Sir John Gostwick, Treasurer of First Fruits and Tenths in 1544.]
a Amphtill. b Odell or Woodhill. c Lavendon.
d Ouse r. e ? Ouzel r. t Bromsgrove.
e Pershore.
PART IX 9
Bewdele a the Sanctuary towne hath hard by it the Kyngs Worcester- maner of Tikile b stonding on a hill. shire.
Castles in Wicestreshire.
Wicester.
The ruines of Hanlec Castle vii. miles from Wiccester lower of the farthar rype of Severne.
Aberle,d otherwise Abbatisle, somtyme longinge to the Erie of Warwike.
Hartsbery Castle6 longinge to the Bysshope of Wicestar, fo. 113. set on a stronge roke vii. miles from Wicester.
Helmelege/ where the college is longinge to the Kynge. There stondithe now but one tower, and that partly broken. As I went by I saw carts carienge stone thens to amend Persore Bridge about a ii. miles of. It is set on the tope of an hill full of wood, and a townelet hard by, and undar the roote of the hille is the Vale of Eovesham.
Rivers in Wicestershire.
Severne risithe in a hill cawlyd Plimlimmon. So to Cair Sews,* famous in name, but in dede a pore thrwghe faire. From Mahenclift to Llanidlas a good village, to Newton, and so rinnith within a mile of Montgomeryke to the Walche Pole, and thens passithe within halfe a mile of Ponsbyri College to Shrobbesbyri, to Wrekcester alias Rokecestar,8 to Bridgnorthe, to Wicester, to Twekesbyry, to Glocester, etc.
Avon.
Arow.h
Dowlesse1 riveret risith, as I lernyd, in Cle Hill in Shrope- shire, and cummithe by Clebiry a poore village, and cum- mithe not far above Bewdele into Severne.
[* Stow's MS. has Hews (which Hearne read Clews), with a correc- tion, S being written over the 11. The place is doubtless Caer Sws, an old Roman station.]
a Bewdley. b Tickenhil or Tickil. c Hanley.
d Abberley. e Hartlebury. f Elmley.
8 Wroxeter. h Arrow r. ' Dowles r.
io LELAND'S ITINERARY
Worcester- Forests and Chases in Wecestershire.*
Wire3 Forest, where of summe part is sett in Wicester- shire, but the moste parte in Shropshire, and stretchithe up from Holt f apon Severne onto Bruge Northe." Bewdley is set in the marchis of this forest, and stretchithe a 2. miles be- yond to a watar cawlyd . . . Wire is more then xx. mills compas.
Fekenham c Forest totally (as I here say) is set in Wicester- shere, and is of lesse compase than Wire.
The Chase of Malvern is bigger then other Wire or Fek- enham, and occupiethe a greate parte of Malverne Hills. Great Malverne and Litle also is set in the Chace of Mal- verne. Malverne Chase (as I here say) is in lengthe in some place a xx. miles, but Malverne Chace dothe not occupi all Malverne Hills.
Wiche d is a vi. miles by northe from Wicester. There be iii. salt springs, whereof 2. be nere togethar. the third is a qwartar of a mile of. At these be made the finest salt of England.
Withein a mile of Alcestre is a limes.
The Castell of Dudeley is in Stafordshire, but hard by is Wicestreshire.
fo. 114. Syr Gilbert Talbot knight hath a goodly howse by Brams- grove market caullid Grafton. J
Pakington hath a veri goodly new howse of brike caullid Hampton Court a vi. [miles] § of from Wicestre somwhat northward.
Market townes in Warwikeshire. Warwike. Coventre.
Henle. I have it described. Monke Kyrkby.6 I know the site of this. Alcestre.
[* Sic.] [t Stow has "frontholt," a careless reading.]
[J Stow has Greston. See Grafton in vol. ii, p. 95.] [§ Not in MS., but doubtless intended.]
Wyre. b Bridgenorth. c Feckenham.
d Droitwich. e Monks Kirby.
PART IX ii
Rugby. Warwicks.
Tameworth apon Anker. I have it describid. [Vol. ii,
Nunne Eton.a I have it described. P- 104.]
Atherstone. I have it described.*
Bremischam b in the way to Chestre-ward, a xii. mills from [Vol. ii, p. 96.] Coventre. I have it described. Southam a vi. mils from Warwike.
Castells in Warwikeshire.
Warwike.
Killingworthe.c
Braundon,d a v. mils be northe from Coventre, now deso- latid; sometyme (as I hard say) longginge to the Lord Mortimer.
Brinkelo, a v. mils by east from Coventre, now desolatyd; longynge somtyme (as men say) to the Mortimers.
Bagginton Castell, now desolatyd. It longgid to the Baggetts, a 2. mils from Coventre.
Ascheley Castle.
Rivers.
Avon.
Anker.
Sow6 risithe nere Hakesbirif iii. myles from Coventre northeste. Fluit per Sow pagumt by White le,g et prope Stonle h village in Tamam labitur.
Leme ' cumminge out of Northamptonshire. It comithe by Granborow,k Lemington, Marton, Offekirke ' pagos, and at Edmund Coote Bridge into Avon.
Colle ™flu. oritur in Yardle Woodde prope Kinggs Northton, Stow, and aftar that by Colleshil he goithe into Tame. fo- Ir5-
Blithe risithe in Warwikshire nere Routon by Balshaul," Hampton, Pakington, and the[n] goinge betwixt Coleshill and Makstoke ° nere f Schustok p village into Tame.
[* These two descriptions seem to be lost.] [t MS. has were.]
• Nuneaton. b Birmingham. c Kenilworth.
d Brandon. e Sowe r. * Hawkesbury.
8 Whitley. h Stoneleigh. * Leam r.
k Grandborough. J Offchurch. m Cole r.
n Temple Balsall. ° Maxstoke. P Shustoke.
12
LELAND'S ITINERARY
Warwick- shire.
Leland, fo. 32.
The lenght of Warwikeshire be estimation from Rollerich Stones by Chipping Northton to Tamwort as to the limites of Oxfordeshir and Stafordshire, — thus the lengthe is about xxxvi. mils.
Watelingstrete toward Rugby is a limes apon Leicester- shire.
A mile above Bremicham is a limes apon Stafordshire.*
Market townes in Shropshire.t
Shrewisbiry.
Bridgenorth a xiiii. miles from Shorbbesbyri.
Welington a vii. miles from Shrobbesbyri toward London way.
Drayton b apon Terne river a xii. miles from Shrewisbyri.
At Blorehethe, a mile above Drayton by north, was a feelde faught bytwene King Edwardes men and Henry the 6. The Erie of Saresbyri and northen men on King Edwardes parte overcam the Lordes Audeley (slain) and Dudeley (woundid) with Quene Margaret, wife to Henry the 6, and Chestershir men lost the feld. She cam J Eccleshall thither. Hauls § Bisshop of Chester her chapeleyn caussid the queene to ly ther.
Whitechirche a xiiii. or xv. miles from Shrewisbyri.
Newport apon a brooke a xii. or xiiii. miles from Shrewis- byri. With in a mile [of] Newport is a goodly large mere or poole.
Ludlo.
Peter Undergod, [a] gentilman longging [to] an Englisch Prince of Wales, did build St. John's Hospital withowt . . . [g]ate of Ludlo [and afjtar gave landes onto hit.||
[* Five pages printed by Hearne after ' ' Staffordshire " from Stow, vol. v, fos. 115-118, containing the counties of Brecon, Radnor, Mont- gomery, and Cardigan, are removed to Part VI, pp. 9-12, 53-57, im- mediately preceding the part as to Carmarthenshire from Stow's fos. 119-123, transposed thither by Hearne. See Part VI, p. 9, note.'}
[t With these following pages on Shropshire read those in " Leland in Wales" (our Part III), pp. 50, 54, 65-67, 73-76.]
[£ Sic. Stow has " She cam Eccleshan."]
[§ John Hales, made bishop the year of the battle, 1459.]
[II This paragraph not in Stow.]
Roll wright.
b Market Drayton.
PART IX 13
Bisshops Castel a very celebrate market. Shropshire.
Castelles in Shropshire.
Shrewsbiri.
Brigenorth on Severn xiiii. myles from Shreusbiri lower on the river.
Caurse a Castel on a hil v. myles from Shreusbiri by sowth west longging to the Duke of Bokingham, now to the Lorde Staford.
Montgomeri the Kinges Castel (in the Shire, but not </<?,*) xii. myles from [Shrewsbyri.] It was ons a great wallid town caullid Cairovalduine.
Chirburi Hunderid was annexid to Montgomerike as a help to have men out of hit for defence.f
Ludlo xx. myles from Shreusbiri.
Newport apon a brooke, or moore, xiiii. miles by east from Shreusbiri.
Whitchirch apon a broket a xvi. [miles] £ by west from Shreusbiry.
Draiton apon Terne river a xiiii. miles from Shreusbiri.
Wigmore Castel a xx. myles from Shreusbiri standing on a brocket sumtime almost dry.
Whittington, a castel of the Lorde Fizwaren's, vi. miles from Shreusbiri upward almost on Severn, and by this goith Offa's diche.
Shrawardine § iiii. miles from Shreusbiry, longging to the Erie of Arundel ii. miles from Whitington, bytwyxt Shreus- biri and hit.
Redde Castel by Whitchirch, [a late the] Lorde Audeles. viii. myles plaine [northe] from Shreusbiri, now al ruinus. It hath bene strong and hath decayid many a day.
Middle Castel longging to the Lord of Darbe iii. miles from Shrewsbyri, veri ruinus.
[* These words not in Stow. See note, p. 14.] [t /.<?., before the act 27 Hen. VIII, c. 26. Cf. with " Leland in Wales," p. 54.]
[J Stow. Omitted by Leland.]
[§ Leland corrected this name twice, from Shrawle to Shra warden. ]
a Cause.
H LELAND'S ITINERARY
Shropshire. Morton Corbet in a marres, iiii. myles from Shreuisbiri by north, longging to the Corbettes.
Knoking a Castel in Shropshire now a ruinus thing longid to the Lorde Lestraunge, and now to the Erie of Darby, fo. 33. Chorleton b Castel on Terne, longging to the Lord Poys, vi. miles from Shrewisbiri, and a myle from Tern village.
Terne is to say a lake or poole.
Cortham Castel apon Corfe riveret, (unde et Corvesdale^) xiiii. myles from Shreusbiri by south.
Acton Burn el was a goodly manor place, or castel, iiii. myles from Shreusbyri, wher a Parliament was kepte in a greate barne. It longgid ons to the Lord Lovel, then to the Duke of Northfolke, and now to Syr John Dudle.
Burnelles doughter was maried to the Lorde Lovel, and thereby the Lovelies landes encresid, and after was made Vicount Lovel. Lovel had Acton Burnel.
Sum of thes castelles though they be yn Shropshire, yet thei be not de* For they be privilegid, and use their owne lawes and courtes, except the last statute let them.
Oswestre Castel is now in Shropshire.
Kensham c Castel clene doun, it stoode within a ii. milis of Ludlo on a hille toppe.
Holgate d Castel (sumtime longing to the Lord Lovel) f stondeth under the Cle hilles harde by Corvesdale a vi. miles from Ludlo. The Duke of Northfolk exchaungid it for other landes with Mr. Dudeley.
[* This curious expression, twice over, may be the shortened use of a Latin legal phrase like de comitatu, perhaps currently applied at the time and locally in the Marches of Wales to certain lordships, which, though really situated in a named county and therefore presumably owing suit to the shire town, were privileged to use their own laws and courts. The places were in the shire but not of it for purposes of public justice, until the Act of Union (27 Hen. VIII, cap. 26, 1535-36) annexed them to definite counties under the laws of England and declared their shire towns, adding that they " shall be in nowise otherwise privileged but as hundreds, lordships, towns, etc., united annexed and knytte " to the county of Salop, or otherwise. It was thus that " the last statute let [or hindered] them," this being the Act referred to by Leland. Montgomery, Whittington, Knockin, Cherbury, and Oswestry are among the places there named, sees. 6, 9. See "Leland in Wales," Pref. p. vii.]
[t Marginal note in Leland.]
a Knockin. b Charlton. c Caynham. d Holdgate.
PART IX 15
Bramscrofte, a very goodly place like a castel, longging to Shropshire, the Erie of Shrewsbiri. It stondeth in Cle Hilles or abowt them a ... miles from Ludlo.
Stokesay longing sumtime to the Ludlos, now to the Vernuns, buildid like a castel v. miles owt of Ludlo.
Syr Richard Ludlo had ii. doughters. One was marled to Humfrey Vernoun, and the other to Thomas Vernoun, bretherne to the late Syr Henry Vernoun of the Peke. The 3. sun [of Henry maried one of Montgomerye's heyres.]
Shepeton Corbet Castel a vi. or vii. miles from Ludlo al- most in the way bytwixt Ludlo and Bisshops Castel.
Hopton Corbet" half way bytwixt Bisshops Castel and Wigmoore, and a iii. miles from Shepeton.
Bisshops Castel well maintenid is set on a stronge rokke, but not veri hy. •
Abbays and Priories in Shropshire.
The Abbay of Shrobbesbyri.b
Album Monasterium by Albertbyri, long syns suppressid.
Ombridge,0 Blake Chanons, in the way to London, ii. miles beyonde Welington market, and a ii. miles beyond Lincel d Abbay.
Lincel, [or Lilleshull.]*
Brerewoodde,6 a priory of white nunnes lately suppressid, in the very marche of Shropshire toward Darbyshire.
Billevoise/ Whit monkes.
Haghmon.g Blake Chanons.
Wenloch. Blak monkes.
Tunge,h a litle thorough-fare betwixte Ulnorhampton * and Newport, 7. mile from Ulnorhampton, 5. from New- porte. It is in Shropshire. There is college and wardon, with an almose house of the auncient foundation of the
[* Two words written on the MS. by Burton.]
a Hopton Castle. b Shrewsbury. c Wumbridge.
d Lilleshall.
e Brewood in Staffordshire. Shropshire does not touch Derbyshire. * Buildwas Abbey. B Haughmond. h Tong.
1 Wolverhampton ; Leland distinctly writes n for « ( = ») in this name.
16 LELAND'S ITINERARY
Shropshire. Vernouns of Haddon in the Peke. Many, or almost al, ly there that were famous of them sins the fundation.
Ther was an olde castel of stone caullid Tunge Castel. It standith half a mile from the toune on a banke, under the wich rinnith the broke that cum[mith from Weston to Tunge. Weston is 2. miles of, and is in Stafordshire.] Syr Henry Vernoun a late daies made the castel new al of [brike.]
Rivers in Shropshire, fo. 34- Severne.
Terne risith nere Mere a village in Stafordshire ; it goeth by Draiton, Ternehil, Besteford and Slepe villages, and cummith into Severn at Acham village a ii. myles from Shrewsbyri. I hard otherwise that hit cam ynto Severn abowt Ternebridge.
Corfe rising in Corvesdale cummith into Teme at Ludlo.
Corvedale plentiful of corne strecchith from abowt Wen- lock to Ludlo.
Ree b cummyng by Wenloche.
Roden risith in the lake of Cumbremere.* After hit it runneth by Whitchirch, a good market town, by Lee c village, and Shabiry d village, and at Walcote into Terne. Ther be very gret bremes and other good fischis in Cumbremere.
Oney e cummith into Teme abowt Eromefeld a celle to Glocestre.
Harmer Pole a mile from Shrobbesbyri.
Teme river enterith into the farther [syde of Severne not far from Powik mile/ a mile and a half beneth Wicester.]
The site and commodites of the soile of Shropshire.
Ther be founde in morisch and mossy ground a vii. miles from Shrobbesbyri, and yn other places of the Shire, fyr- woodde rootes, and also the hole trees hewen downe in olde time; but of whom, or for what cause, no man there can
[* The Roden seems to rise in Colemere (near Ellesmere), and does not run near Whitchurch ; the rest of its course is rightly indicated. ]
a Maer. b Rea r. of Shropshire. It is a long way off Wenlock.
c Lee Brockhurst. d Shawbury. e Onny. f Powick mill.
PART IX 17
telle. They finde them lying yn the grounde, sumtime a Shropshire, foote or ii. depe, sumtime a v. or vi. foote depe. Many of them be of a greate lengthe, and withowt twysxe. Yn bren- ning they smel welle.
Mortimers Clebyri a in Shropshire, a village and a parke by Wire forest, yn the way bytuixt Ludlo and Beudeley.
Cle b hilles be devided ynto 3. partes.
The hilles next to Wenlok be caullid the Broune Cle, and ther be dere.
Sainct Margeretes Cle toward Ludlo.
Theterston Clec betwixt the forest of Wyre, where is fair timbre, and Ludlo.
Ledewik broke d springith in Cle hilles, and renning a vii. miles goith into Teme at Burforde, wher is the house of the barony of Burforde longing to Mr. Cornwale.
Cle hilles begin a iiii. miles from Tembyri, and strech within a iiii. miles of Wenlok. So that be gesse I cownt them in lenght an viii. or x. miles.
In these hilles risith Rhee river, and at Newton Milles in Wicestreshire a iii. miles beneth Tembyri cummith into Tame.*
The limites of Shropshire.
Blakemere, a very large parke nye to White-Chirche, ys (as I have harde say) yn sum parte a limes betwixte Shrop- shire and Chestreshire. In the parke is a fair maner place.
Monkbridge, a mile beneth Tembyri, is (as I ther hard say) a limes to Wicestreshire, Shropshir, and Herfordshire.f
Langfelde Dale.
Strettons Dale.
Syr Richarde Manoring, chefe of that name, dwellith a fo. 35. iii. miles be est from Price f village at a village caullid Hightfelde,g having a parke and greate plenty of wood about hym.
[* Leland has Teme in error. This Rea runs through Worcester and Warwick shires.]
[t Names of gentlemen in Shropshire are given in vol. iii (Wales), pp. 64, 67.]
a Cleobury Mortimer. b Clent Hills. c Titerstone Clee.
d Ledwyche brook. e Rea r. f Frees.
g Ightfield. V. C
i8
LELAND'S ITINERARY
Shropshire. Sandford dwellith at Sanforde, wher is onely his place and a parke, iii. miles be south from Whitechirch.
Newport dwellith at a place caullid Archaule.a It stond- ith betwixt Roden and Terne rivers toward their mouthes.
Syr John Talbot dwellith a xvi. miles from Shrewsbyri in the way to London toward Hampton village. His howse stondith in a parke [called Pepper Hill.]*
Appley a The hedde howse of the Chorletons [is now at] Appley,
Manor Place. na}f a mjie frOm Welington market, a mile from the Wreken
hilles. Howbeit Chorleton castel semith in time past to have
bene the principal. Ther be divers of the Chorletons gentil-
men of Shropshire.
Chorleton of Chorleton" Castel maried the heyre of the Lorde Powis, and Gray. Sins Lorde Poys maried Chorle- ton's heyre.
Arture Newton hath almost made away al his landes.
Yerne is made yn certen places of Shropshire, and especi- ally yn the wooddes betwixte Belvoys6 and Wenloke.
Colys be diggid hard by Ombridge, where the priory was.
fo. 36. Market townes in Staforshir.f
Staford.
There is a fre schole for grammar in Stafford made by Syr Thomas Countre parsone of Ingestre by Heywodde, and Syr Randol a chauntre preste of Stafford. Lichefeld.
Countre and Randol made S. Cedde steple, a fair square tour, and the belles in Stafford toun.
New Castle New Castel under Line. The paroche is at Stok on undar Lyne. [Trent] % a good mile of. The toune usith to cum to a
[* Three words seem to have been written by Burton on Leland's MS.]
[t The leaf 36 was bound into vol. viii of Leland's MS. (where it stands, pp. 53, 54, but is bound in by the wrong margin). The damp marks also show that it belonged to this place in Leland's vol. vii. It contains the portions above printed "Market towns in Stafordshir — Duddely castel . . yn Stafordshir," p. 2O.]
[I Leland wrote Terne. Burton corrects this in the margin.]
a Ercall.
b Charlton.
c Buildwas.
PART IX
19
chapel of S. Sonday * by the castel. Al the castel is doune The Chapel save one great toure. Ther was a house of Blak Freres yn °fs- Sonday the south^side of the toune. tnf £ S*
rr> 11 1 1 • 1 °J t"g JOUn.
Burton apon 1 rent hath but one parocn chirch and a gurton ^^ chapel at the bridge end. Trent cumpasith a great peace of Trent, the towne. Many marbelers working in alabaster.
Uttok Cestrea one paroche chirch. The menne of the Utokcester. towne usith grasing, for there be wonderful pastures apon Dove. It longgith to the erledom of Lancaster.
It is in the way to Derby from Stafford : and is 9. mile est north est from Stafforde.
[A fre scole foundid bi a prist, Thomas Allen. He foundyd an otharat Stone in the reigne of Queen Mari.Jf
Tutburi a smaul market.
Wulnerhampton J a very good market town. In it is a fre schole made by Syr Stephane Jenning Maire of London.
Tamworth.
The college of Windesore give the prebendes of Wulner- hampton, and the dean of Wyndesor is [deane there] . . .
Tetenhaul a village and a college about a myle from Wul- nerhampton.
Castelles in Staffordshire.
Stafforde not far from Staford town on the river of Sow.
The castel or preaty pile of Careswel § iiii. myles by north fro Stone a late a priori of chanons sumtyme belonging to the Montgomerikes, now to the Giffard.
Lichefeld in old tyme had a castel.
Ther is a causey thorough the pole to the castel, and dyvers brid[g]es yn the causey: a water issuith by them through the causey. This castel standith yn low ground. And it standith as a mediamnis yn the poole, the water wherof is yn sum part a quarter of mile brode yn sum place, and yn sum lesse.
[* Leland first wrote Salviour, then corrected as above.]
[t Added by Stow, but not in Leland's MS.]
[t Leland first wrote Uller, then corrected to Wulnerhampton.]
[§ Leland first wrote Cawsewel. Now Caverswall.]
Uttoxeter.
20 LELAND'S ITINERARY
Stafford- New Castel under Line, so cawllid of a brooke renning
shire. therby, or of an hille or wodd therby, so cawllid. There
cummith a broke owt of the pole aboute the castel. It
longgid to the Duke of Lancaster. Brok renning oute of
. . . poole cummith by the toun*
Hely a a castel of the Lord Audeleys, and a 2. miles of is Audeley village, wherby sum think that it is cawllid Hely Castel for Audeley Castel. The tenauntes of Audeley cum to this castel.
Tutbiri Castel longging to the King now by the Duke of Lancastre. It was afore Ferrares Castel Erie of Darby.
Eccleshaul Castel longging to the Bisshop of Chester.
There be a v. greate poolys. a broke cummith thorough them, and thens issuing oute.
Sturseley, or Stourton, Castel withoute fayle is in Staford- shir, and I hard that there was a Lorde Storton a baron of this Storton. It is the Kinges. Pole lay at it by licens; [and there Cardinal Pole was borne.] f
Tamworth Castel apon Anker river longging to one of the Ferrars. Parte of Tamworth toune stondith in Stafordshir, part [yn Warwike. But the castel hole withowt fayle yn Warwikeshire.
Not veri far from Stone priori appereth the place wher King Woulphers castel or manor place was. This Byri hille J stode on a rok by a broke side. Ther appere great dikes and squarid stones. It is a mile from Stone toward the more lande.
Duddeley Castel hard on the borders of Wyrcestreshire, but the castelle self standith yn Stafordshir.
fo. 37. Rivers in Stafordshire.
Sow§ . . . andrennith by St&ford, per aenofo'um S. Thomae a good mile of, by Shutborow,b and at Heywood bridge into Trent.
[* Note in margin.] [t These words perhaps added by Burton.]
[J Stone is in the hundred of Pirehill.]
[§ Leland left a blank after each name of a river on this folio ; some he filled in, others still remain blank ; a and b are marginal remarks. ]
a Heyley Castle. b Shugborough.
PART IX 21
Trent. Stafford-
a. I have the cours of Treant to Newarke. shire. Dove.
Pen fluviolus per Penchrike, 6° prope Staford in Sow de- labitur. Churnet.
b. I have perfectly the course of Churnet.
Blithyfo. springith at Whetle moore. It rennith by Drai- cote village, Teynea village, and about Vttokcester goith into Dove.*
Tame risith . . . per pontem Tamensem, Hamesworth b pagum, Aschton, Birmicham, per Crudworth" Bridge, Kinis- byri, [Fares/eY pagum, Tamesworth, et apud Wiknor \Bridge in TrentamJ]
Kinisbyri is a fair manor place and a lordship of [140. //. One Brasebridge is lord of it. It is in Warwikshir.]
Abbaies and prioris in Stafordshir.
Ther wer dyverse tumbes of the lordes of Stafford in Stone priory made of alabaster. The images that lay on them were after the suppression of the house caryed to the Freers Augustines in Forde bridg," alias Stafford Grene, as flumen. And yn this freres hong apetigre of the Staffordes.
S. Johns a fre chapelle on the grene at Staford hard by Sow ryver.f
The Gray Freres were at the other ende of the toun, ultra flumen.
Mr. Stretey of Lichefeld told me that one Langton Bisshop of Lichefeld made the fair palace at Lichefeld, and the close waulle, and that he made Eckleshaul castel/ Shoc- borow8 maner place, and the palace by Stroude. This Lang- ton was tresorerto Edward the firste.J
Ther is a chace groundeh yn Stafordeshir having deere
[* It is the river Tean which runs into the Dove.]
[t In the margin of the original.]
[£ Walter Langton, bishop of Lichfield, a rich man, died 1321.]
*• Tean. b Handsworth. c Curdworth.
d Kingsbnry, Fazeley. e At Stafford. ' Eccleshall.
8 Shugborough. h Cannock Chace.
22
LELAND'S ITINERARY
Stafford- caullid the vii. Hayes, lying betwixt Lichefeld and Wulnor- shire. hampton.
Tcddeslechase. There is a praty chace by Pencrichea of [the Kinges,] where [Littleton of Pillenhaul is foster by inheritaunce.]*
f°- 38. Forestes, parkes and chasis in Staford[shire.]
The forest of Neede Woddeb by Tuttebryi, and betwixt Tuttebyri and Lichefelde; but the nerest part of it is a v. miles from Lichefeld. There long to Tutbyri Honor 4. parkes. The Castel Hay, Hanbyri, Barton, and the New Park. This forest is mervelusly plenishid with dere.
Cankc Foreste a great thing, merely longging to the Bisshoprik of Lichefeld. Ther is Bewdesert his place and parke (Bewdesert in Langedon paroch; and yn this paroch is a great peace of Cank Forest.) and Shucboroughd his place (were is a park now of red dere) is yn the side of Cank Woode. Shukborow was ons Suchborows with the long berd, and he, as sum say, gave it to the mitre of Liche- feld. I know no certente of this gifte.
Sum caulle Shokesborow Heywood by cause it standith by it.
Ther is a fair poole betwixt Cank Wood and Shukes- borow.
Ther ly a v. fayre pooles by the castel of Eccleshaul, and the park of Blore a 2. miles of in the same lordship is a v. or vi. miles abowte, and is the bisshops, and is ful of won- derful fair wood. The chase of Sutton v. miles owte of Lichefeld, wherof parte was yn Staford, and parte in War- wikeshir. It is now clene put downe. And this is the place wher Veysi t Bisshop of Excestre hath plantid housis of stone and bryk, and many good dwellers yn them.
One Mountford a knight, atteyntid in Henry the vii.
[* These two paragraphs are on the bottom of fo. 37. Stow copied them as though written on the bottom of the next page, omitting the paragraph ' ' one Mountford " that really stands there. Both leaves have lost the lower edge.]
[t John Harman or Voysey became bishop of Exeter in 1519.]
a Penkridge, Teddesley Chace. c Cannock.
b Needwood. d Shugborough.
PART IX 2-.
tymes, had a manor place here caullid Sutton by Sutton Stafford- toun. This Mountford had a house in Warwikshire caullid Colleshil Haul, and a park [that was given to Syr Simon Dygby, Leutenaunt of the Toure of London.]
The limites of Stafordshire.*
The site of the shire and commodites of the soile.
Se coles at Weddesbyri8 a village a 5. miles from Liche- felde by west south west.
Waulleshalb a litle market toune in Stafordshir a mile by north from Weddesbyri. Ther be many smithes and bytte- makers yn the towne. It longgith now to the King, and there is a parke of that name scant half a mile from the towne yn the way to Woluerhampton.
At Walleshaul be pittes of se coles, pittes of lyme that serve also South Tounc 4. miles of. There is also yren owre.
Market townes in Chestershire.f
Chestre apon Dee.
Nantwich apon Wiver,d xiiii. miles be west from Chester. The paroche chirch is impropriatid to Cumbremer.6 Sum say that Acton is the mother chirch. It is no market.
Northwich apon Wyver, xii. myles from Chestre. It hath but a chapel. The paroch chirch is a mile of at Budworth impropriatid to Norton.
Maxwellef hard on the egge under Maxwel forest, and yet oute of the foreste: xxiiii. myles northwest J from Chestre toward Darbishire.
Congleton apon Dane a xx. myles from Chester; plaine easte oute of Chester, and vi. miles owte of Northwike.
[* A blank follows this heading.]
[t See more notes on Cheshire in vol. iii, pp. 91, 92, and the short narrative, vol. iv, pp. 2-5.] [J Leland's error ; it is East.]
fo. 39.
Cheshire, fo. 40.
a Wednesbury. d Weaver.
» Walsall.
e Combermere.
c Sutton Coldfield. f Macclesfield.
24 LELAND'S ITINERARY
Cheshire. Knottesforde a market xviii. miles by north est. It hath but a chapel. The paroch chirch is a[t]* Aspebyrif a mile of.
Stoppord b apon Mersey a vi. miles from Manchestre. The paroch chirch is yn the toune.
Mr. Warine is caullid there Baron of Stoppord. For one of the Warines of Chestershire maried one Stoppord baron of Stopporde doughter and heyre aboute Henry the 4. dayes. The auncienter house longging to Warines was Poynton, wher he lyith now, for Stoppord maner place is dekayid. At Poynton is a parke. Pointon ys yn the mydle way betuixt Stoppord an[d]J Maxwel toune, 4. mile from eche. It is in Prestebyri paroch, yn the wich paroche be divers places of auncient gentilmen.
Castelles in Chestershire.
Chester.
Bistonc Castel buildid or reasdifiyd by Ranulf Erie of Chestre.
Haultond Castel buildid by Randol Erie of Chestre. It standeth abowt the side of Mersey, within a myle of his banke, and within a mile of Runcorn, now a poore townlet by a salt creke.
Shotte Wikee yn Wyral.
Looke whither Charteley Castel, buildid by Ranulph Erie of Chestre, be in Chestershire. §
Charteley is yn Stafordeshire an viii. miles from Deuleu- cresef Abbay, and a v. myles from Uttokcestre Market. Ther is a mighty large parke. The olde castel is now yn ruine; but olde Yerle Randol, as sum say, lay in it, when he buildid Deuleucres Abbay. This Castel stondith a good flite shot from the building and goodly manor place that
[* Omitted by Stow. Letter t supplied by L. T. S.] [t There seems to be some error here. I cannot identify Aspebury.] [J Leland wrote an. Stow omits this paragraph, from "The aun- cienter."]
[§ This is Leland's first note, afterwards filled in by the following lines. ]
Stafford- shire.
« Knutsford. d Halton.
b Stockport. e Shot wick.
c Beeston.
f Dieulacresse Abbey.
PART IX 25
now is ther, as the principal house of the Ferrars, and cam to them be similitude by maryage.
There was a place of the Lorde Audeleys in Chestreshire Cheshire, betuixt Cumbremere and Nantwiche caullid Newhaule Tower. It is now doune. There be motes and fair water.
Rivers in Chestreshire. fo. 41.
Deva.a I have his course.* Wyver.b I have his course.
Above Frodesham, Wyver by himself goith to the se.
Daven, alias Dane,0 risith in the hundered of Maxfeld wher the forest ys. The hedde off Dane is in the very bordre of Darbyshire and Maxwel Forest. And as yt is saide, abowt the hedde of this River be the limites of Chestreshire, Stafordshir and Darbishir.
After that Dane cummith a 3. miles beneth the hedde, if rayne cum fast it ragith on stones, thoug after it cum- mith from Congleton it runnith on ground sumwhat morisch.
Abbais and prioris in Chestreshire.
Right agayne Lyrpoole d ii. miles over Mersey was a priory of canons cawllid Northtton," now suppressid.f
Forests and chacys and parkes in Chestershire. fo. 42.
The faire and large forest of Delamare, beside the wich I remembre none, and there is plenty of redde deere and falow.
The hole Foreste of Maxwel except it be a smaul spek is yn Chestre.
J Notable places of Gentilmen in Chestershir.
[* See vol. iii, pp. 67, 68. The blanks after each name still remain.]
[t This paragraph heads a blank page.]
[J Stow omits the following notes on "places of Gentilmen in Ches- tershir" on fos. 42, 43 of the MS., except that he oddly copies a mar- ginal note on Bostok, fo. 43, and another on Randol Manoring, once at the lower edge of the same folio, but now cut off. Stow omits several other short passages in his copy of this Part. ]
» The Dee r. b Weaver r. ° Dane r.
d Liverpool. e Norton Priory.
26 LELAND'S ITINERARY
Cheshire. In the southe side of the Forest of Delamere.
Syr John Downe, alias Dane, dwellith at Utkenton a within iii. miles of Gunbyri, a mile from Torperle,b a long pavid village, or thoroug fare, and iiii. miles from Vale Royal.
The firste house of the Egertons is at Egerton in Malpas paroche. He hath also the Manor of Oldeton.
The auncientis of the Egertons dwellith now at Oldeton,0 and Egerton buildeth ther now.
The second of the howse of the Starkeis is at Darled abowte a v. miles from Northwiche, a scant mile from Olde- ton, and a 3. miles from Vale Royal.
The frutefulnesse of the soile of Chestreshire.
Bunbyri a gentilman not in, but hard by, Wyraul.
Iriene Breton maried William Hanford of Handforde,6 heyre. But she had a sun afore by Syr John Standely, bastard to Standely, Bisshop of Helye.
Syr Richard Brereton, a younger sun to Syr Randol of Brereton, maried the onle doughter of Wylken Standeley, and heyre to Syr Geffrey Massey of Tatton Manor and Parke.
Mere of the Mere 2. mile from Knotesford, a man of a C. marke land.
Le of Hyle,f the auncientest of the Lees of this contery, a mile from Knotesford.
Le of Bouthe half a mile from Knotesford, and hath a park.
Le of Adelington a mile from Prestby, a man of 3. C. mark lande.
Leyrcester of Tabeley betwixt Northwich and Knottesford a 3. miles from eche.
Leyrcester of* ... yonger brother of ... Toste his manor place, a man of a C. marke lande.
[* No blanks indicated, yet two words are wanting. This note is written on the margin, like many others on these three folios 42-44.]
Utkinton. b Tarporley. c Oulton. d Darley.
8 Handforth. f High Leigh. e Booth.
PART IX 27
Daniel of Table," a mile from Leyrcestre.* Cheshire.
Bouth of Dunham dwellith at Dunham a 3. miles from Knottesford. It hath a fair parke, and is a myle from Altringham a pore thing, wher is a mayre.
Bouth of Barton in Lancastreshire is the auncienteste.
Bouth Bisshop of Hereforde was of f yonger brother of Bouth of Barton in Lancastreshire.
Davenport of Bromehauleb 2 miles from Stopporde by West dwellith at Bromehaule. He hath a 2. markes landes.
Davenport of Woodeforde a 2. myles from Bromhaule.
The best and firste house of the Davenportes is at Daven- port a great old house coverid with leade on the ripe of Daven, 3. miles above Congleton.
Davenport of Henbyri cummith oute of this house.
Henbyric place is a 2. miles playne north from Maxfeld. At Henbyri is a greate poole. This Davenport hath a peace of Bechetons landes. Fitton of Goseworth had a nother Fitton. peace. Fitton dwellith at Goseworth d now, but \ not part of Becheton landes.
Syr Perce of Dutton chefest hovvse is in Dutton a viii. miles fo. 43. from Chestre.
Hatton a fair place longging to Syr Perse of Dutton, abowte a 4. litle miles from Chestre.
Bostok of Bostok in Henry the 7. tyme had a doughter and heyre maryed to Syr John Salvage. Bostok was of a very auncientnes yn Chestershire, and yn Daneham paroche; and both Bulkles of this paroche, and Lestwike also.
The last Bulkle of Eton" was nepos. Venables doughter was his wife, yet alive.
Bulcle of Whatcroft a 2. mile from the Northwich now dwelling yn Wales. William of Bulkle/ chefe Justice of Chester, was setter up of Eiton. Bulkle of Eyton had sum land afore he was Justice. These 2. Bulkles contend either
[* I.e., the family Leicester of Tabley.]
[t Sic. Perhaps error for a.]
[J No blank, but hath seems to be omitted.]
a Tabley. b Bramhall. c Henbury Hall (due west).
d PGawsworth. e Eaton. f Bulkeley.
28
LELAND'S ITINERARY
Cheshire, to be the elder house of that name. The name rose by a lawyer. Bulkle of Wales ys a man of far greater land then the other. Bulkle of Elton's stok cam to a doughter, and Lestewich had her; but Syr Gul. of Breton bought Eyton.
^Egerton, one of the yongger brethern of Egerton of Eger- ton, dwellith at Ridle within a halfe mile of Bukle Hille wher Ridle Poole. the hedde of Wyver river is, and neere is a poole of a mile and more in lenghthe, and owte of [it] issuith an arme, that sone after goith into Wyver, and straite moche encresith hit. This Ridle Hawlle a made of a poore hold place the fairest gentleman's howse of al Chestreshire by Syr William Stondeley, helper to King Henry the vii., and he was at- teinted, and Ridle was given to Rafe Egerton. There is a very large p . . .
Ridle longid to Danyel, that was servant to Syr W . . . Standle. and few men know what becam of this D . . .
Spurstow hath a place b a mile of* ... and a poole by hit cawllid Newpoole.
Bunbyri College half a mile of. Syr Hugh Calv[eley] made the college of Bunbyri about Henry the 5. dayes.
Syr Hugh Calveley and Syr Robert Knolles were com- panions and great menne of warre.
Biston dwellith at Biston half a mile from Biston Castel.
Davenport dwellith a iii. dim. [miles] f from Bis[ton] by easte at a place cawllid Calve[ley], havyng certen very hy trees abowte his house that men may se very far of. This Davenport is of lesse landes then the residew.
Prestland dwellith at Wordelec in Bunbery paroche. It Bar flu. is a mile from Calveley. A mile and a half thens is Bar- bridge and ther rennith Bar riveret, after cumming into Wyver.
Syr Randol Manoring dwellith at Bad[ele] d a 3. miles
[* The upper part of the letter R (as it seems) is extant in the original, perhaps it should be Ridle. — Hearne. Most of the right edge of fo. 43 is torn, causing loss of a word at end of each line. — L. T. S.]
[t Omitted in MS.]
a Ridley Hall. c Wardle.
b Spurstow Hall. d Baddiley.
PART IX 29
from Nant Wiche by south west, [and hath a parke] and a Cheshire, mere caulyd Badlemere.*
Starkey the auncients of that stokke dwellith at Wenbyri a fo. 43 b. a mile and a half from Cumbremere. There is a parke ful of mervelus faire wood, but no dere. Abowte these ii. places is plenty of woodde.
Nedam a knight dwellith at Shenton a iiii. miles from Cumbremere by est. He hath buildid a faire house. It is motid. Shenton ys yn Shropshire, and Syr John Nedam was chefe Justice of Chestre, much set up this name.
Cranage manor and place yn Chestershir 3. miles from Midlewich longith to Nedam of Shenton. The manors of Badington, Bromold and Austason cam to Syr Robert Nedam that now livith by his mother, one of 3. heyres of Syr John Braundeley. The 2d. doughter was maried to Geralde of Brin in Lancastershire, and he had Braundele" the hedde house, and Wynnington, both in StafFordshir, and other lordshipes beside. Harper of Ruschaule c had the 3. and with her the lordship of Cholmestond 2. miles from Nantwich.
Braundeley f the hedde house of Braundeley f the knight in Stafordshir in the greate large paroch of Eccleshaul, wher the Bisshop of Chester castel is.
Syr John Oldford of Oldford a mile from the North- wich.
Fowleciste a iiii. [miles] | from Nantwiche sowth est hath a faire place, and a man of fair landes. He is a knight.
John Ascheley of Ascheley 2. myle out of Knotesford.
Syr Henry Delves dwellith a iii. miles est from Nantwiche, and hath a fayr house.
Richard Letewich of Letewiche . . . mile from North- wiche ... on Dane . . . ik a mile . . . then Northwice.
t* Fo. 43, like fos. 37, 38, has the lower edge cut off since Hearne's day. This paragraph is copied by Stow.]
[t Burton has corrected these words to Bromley, on the MS.] [t Hearne's addition.]
Wrenbury. b Bromley, Staff. c Rushall.
rt Cholmondeston. e Leftwich.
30 LELAND'S ITINERARY
Cheshire. Malpas.
. . . arbyri of ... rbyri, wher . . . great Poole . . . e from . . . Northwik.
. . . rse Wer . . . hath is ... cient house . . . Wer- breton . . . Mersey and dwellith . . . reley. He . . . the Winington . . . Winningtons [Lands] 2. C. markes . . . ere. In al he hath 5. C. markes by yere.
Calveley dwellith at a maner place cawllid Le,a v. miles from Biston b by south west.
The seconde howse of the Breertons wher Syr Randol a late dwellid, ys at Malpas, a litle Sonday market * having iii. streates al pavid. His fair place is at the very ende of the south streate. Syr Randol erected a gramer schole ther, and an hospital.
Cholmeley dwellith at Cholmeley Haul, a fair howse, having a litle mere by hit, a fair woode, and a mosse of fyrwod. It is yn the middes of the way betwixt Malpas and Bunbyri iii. miles from eche.
The eldest howse of the Breertons is Bruerton hawle c by the Middle Wiche, possessid now of Syr Wylliam Breerton.
Mynshul dwellith at Mynshul f a v. miles west from the Midle Wiche.
Venables borne J of Kindreton dwellith at Kindreton by the Midle Wiche. Venables be auncient gentilmen.
In Wyrale.
Standeley a knight.
Pole a knighte.
. . hunter [Massey at Puddington. . . enour. . _ % ravenor . . . dwellith clene . . . §]
[* "A — market." A faint line is crossed through these words, as though they were erroneous.]
[t Minshull. Leland corrected west to north; both are wrong — it should be south-west.] [t The MS. has barne.~\
[§ This edge was evidently torn in Hearne's day ; it is now cut, and the fragments he saw are gone. — L. T. S. ". . ravenor . ." Forsan Gra- venor, corruptly for Grosvcnor, a known family in Cheshire. This con- jecture is owing to Mr. THOMAS RAWLINSON, who confirms it from the word . . . hunter in the margin, Grosvenor being nothing but a great Hunter. — Hearne.]
Leigh.
b Beeston, Cheshire.
c Brereton Hall.
PART IX 31
Market townes in Darbyshire.* Derbyshire.
Darby.f fo- 44-
Oresworth." Bakewelle.
Ascheburn in the Peke. Chestrefeld in the Peke. Maunsefeld.
Castelles in Darbishire.
Duffeld had a Castel. Horeston.
Codnore, sumtyme longging to the Lorde Greys, v. mylis bi east from Horeston. It is now al ruinose. Castel of the hy Peke longging to the King.
Rivers in Derbishire. fo. 45.
Darwent risith plaine west a litle above Blakwelb a market town. To Darle in the Peke, to Wennesle c village, to Mattelok village, to Crumford village, and thorough Crumford bridge, to Watstonde Wei d Bridge, to ... Darle, Darby, Sawla c feri, v. miles be land from Darby, wher it goith into Trente.
Trent.
Manifold.
Ambre f risith east of Chestrefeld, and leveth ii. myles on the lift hand onto us, to Winfeld g village an viii. myles, to Ambrebridge ii. myles, to Chriche h Chase a wood, fast by wher hit runneth into Darwent.
Wye river good for troutes risith in Darbishire nere S. Anne of Bukstanes ' Welle, so to Bakewel a market town, to Haddon, and therabowt Wye cummith into Darwent.
^glesburn k risith in a roche in the paroche of Oreworthe,1
[* Leland's few other notes on Derbyshire are in vol. i, pp. 21, 96.] [t A space is left after each name on this and the next folio, but few were filled in.]
a Probably Wirksworth.
b Leland confuses this place with Bakewell on the Wye.
0 Wensley. d Whatstandwell. c Sawley.
1 Amber r. « Wingfield. h Crich.
' Buxton. k Ecclesbourn r. ' Wirksworth.
32 LELAND'S ITINERARY
Derbyshire, thens to Iderse a a iii. myles, to Dofeld b chirch a iii. myles. A litle beyound Dovefeldb chirch at a* place Eglesburn muthe goith ynto Darwent.
Abbais and Priories in Darbishire.f fo. 46. The Limites of Darby.
The Frutefulnes of the Shire. Forestes and Chasis in the Shire.
Notable Places of Gentilmen. fo. 47. The Limites of Lincolnshire.
Market Townes in Kesten.c
Staneforde.
Bourne.
Deping Market chirche is dedicate to S. Gude[lake.]
The chyrch of the other Deping is dedicate to S. Ja[mes.]
A mile from Deping Market is the ruine of a c[astel], caullid Maxeye, wherof sum parte stondith [yet.] It was be al likelyhod the Lorde Wakes house. Of late dayes it apparteynid to the Countes of Richemont, King Henry the 7. mother by the right of the. . . •+
Lincoln- Sleforde toune nor market is of no price. The orna- shire. mentes of it is the Bisshop of Lincoln's castel, and the late fo. 48. Lorde Husey's house.
Kyme the goodly house and parke is a 3. miles from Sleford.
Grantham.
[* So both in the orig. and Stowe. — Hearne.'}
[t These headings, as well as many of the names following, have large spaces left, which have never been filled.]
[£ The lower edge of fo. 47 is torn. In the margin part of a note can be seen, as follows : — Holand Lord of Maxey. Depyng market ad differ, alter, op. ejusd. nominis . . . ncti.~\
* Idridgehay. b Duffield. c Kesteven.
PART IX 33
From Stanford to Granteham al yn Kesten, and by meatly Lincoln- good plenty of woode, xviii. myles. shire.
From Stanforde, to Bechefeld," a meane thorough fare, xii. mile, much playne grounde, savinge in the partes aboute Bichefeld self.
From Bichefeld to Ankester, a poore thorough fare, al by playne and much hethy grounde.
From Ankestre to Lincolne xvi. miles, al by like playne grounde in Kestene.
Here marke that al this hethe or playne from Bichefeld to Lincolne berith the name of Ankester.
From Burne in Kesten to go thorough hy Holland to Boston xx. miles al by low grounde and much marsch, and no woode in maner.*
Low Holande. fo. 49.
Croylande. Quappelode, vulgo Hoplode.b
Hye Holand.
Boptolpstoune c stondith harde on the river of Lindis. The greate and chifiest parte of the toune is on the este side of the ryver, where is a faire market place and a crosse with a square toure. The chife paroche chirche was at S. John's, where yet is a chirch for the toune. S. Botolph's was but a chapel to it. But now it is so risen and adournid that it is the chifiest of the toune, and for a paroche chirche the beste and fayrest of al Lincolnshire, and servid so with singging, and that of cunning men, as no paroche is in al England. The society and bretherhodde [longging] to this chirch hath caussid this, [and now] much lande longgith to this society.
The stepil being quadrata turris^ and a lanterne on it, is both very hy and faire, and a marke bothe by se and lande for all the quarters thereaboute. There is a
[* Hearne saw a few letters on the torn lower edge of fo. 48, since cut off. Stow's last word is "maner," as above.]
a Bitchfield. b Now Whaplode.
c Boston, on the Witham r. V. D
34 LELAND'S ITINERARY
Lincoln- goodly fonte, wherof part is of white marble, or of stone shire. very \fee to jt
[There] be 3. colleges of Freres, Gray, [Blake] and Augustines. There ys al[so an hosjpital for poore men, and yn the [towne, or] nere to it the late Lorde Hus[e had a] place with a stone toure. Al the bu[ilding] of this side of the toune is fa[yre,] and marchauntes duelle yn it; and [a staple] of wulle is usid there. There is [a bridg] of wood to cum over Lindis ynto [this part] of the toune, and a pile of stone [set yn] the myddle of the ryver. The streame wherof is sumtymes as suifte as it we[re an arow.]
On the west syde of Lindis is one lon[g strete], and on the same side is the White [Freres.]
The mayne se ys vi. miles of Bost[on. Dy verse good shipps and othar vessells ryde there.]
fo. 50. The Lord Wyllougby had a house at Heresby,* and a parke of blak dere a 2. miles from Spilesby, wher, as I heere say, [he] * entendith to build sumptuusly.
Spilesby, a mene market toune having houses most parte thakkid, and sum redid. In it is one meately faire place, longging to one Hastinges, a gentilman which cam from Southfolk, where he hath lande. This toune is v. miles est from Home Castel, and about as much from the se side as in the midle way: and it standith on the egge of the midle marsche of Lowe Lyndesey.
Rivulus praeterlabitur, and many springes be about it, and the soile sandy.
Alford xvi. miles from Boston. Alforde, a meane market toune in Low Lindesey Marsche a . . . f myle from the maine se. The toune is al thakkid and redid, J and a brooke cummith by it.
There is goode whete and benes in moste paroches of the low marsche yn Lindesey, but litle barle as yn stiffe clay grounde.
No woode yn the low marsche of Lindesey.
[* Omitted in MS. This note (a marginal one) not copied by Stow.]
[t Blank in MS.]
[t Covered with reed, "reeded."]
Eresby.
PART IX 35
At Hutetost a Marsch 4. miles of cum shippes yn from Lincoln- divers places and discharge. shire.
Wayneflete a praty market stonding on a creke nere to the se. To this toune long smaul vessels.
The schole, that Wainflete Bisshop of Winchestre [made ther] and endowid with x. li. lande, is the most notable [thing of that toune.]
Waynflete vii. myle from Alford toward [Boston.]
Louthe.
Raisun market.5
Castre standith on a clive side half [a] mile of from Ankeholme ryver, [and a] iiii. myles from Langford Bridge, and [toward] a vi. miles est from Spitel. There is a S[atarday] market. The toune almoste al thakkid, and in hominum memoria often hurte with fyer. There is speking of a fortres that hath sumtyme bene ther. There cummith springes from the hilles by Castre.
Launford. Forsan Langforde.
Grimesby.
Tatershaule apon Bane0 ryver; and the Aye or [Rhe],d a greate river, is aboute a mile of. It is preati smaul market. It is a v. miles from Hornecastel, and 3. from Barden[ey.]
Home Castelle, as far [as I can] lerne, is [now] moste buildid withyn the circuite of an [old waul]lid toune, or sum hughe castel,* as app[erith from] divers mines of a waulle. It hath one [faire paroche] chirch. Alluitur Bano et Verino qui paulo infra \pp. £anumJ\
Dr. Thybleby of the Quenes College hath [la]ndes about the olde waulles of Home Castel. Waring risith of divers springis aliquot passuum millibus ab oppido.
. . . petit. Pons ibi est super Verinumflu.
The market is very good and quik, occupiers in the toun . . . wood hard. . . .
Bullingbroke hath ons a yere a faire, [but it] hath no
[* Stow omits the rest of this paragraph, but the bracketed words now destroyed must have been seen by Hearne.]
Huttoft. b Market Rasen. c Bain r.
d Lindis, now Witham r.
36 LELAND'S ITINERARY
Lincoln- wekely market. The cast[el is meately] welle mayntaynid, shire. and motid ab[owte, having a draw bridge.]
fo. 51. Rivers and Brokes yn Lindcolnshire.
At Kellesthorp,8 or there abowt, as it were a iii. myles west from Louthe, risith a great brooke ther cawlled Bane, so to Baumburge, peraventure for Baneburg,b a village a iiii. myles of, thens to Home Castel a market town iiii. myles of. Al this way yt runneth most by sowth. After to Tatershaul, alias Tateshaul,0 flat west yt runneth.
Tatershaul ys a market town v. myles of Horn Castel, and so to Dogdyke Fery abowt a myle, where yt renneth ynto the Ree, alias Lindis/ the which devideth Lindesey fro Kesteney.6
Lindis. It ebbith and flouith withyn a litle of Dogdike Fery.
Lyndesey lieth by est and Kesteney by west.
The bek or brooke that runneth by the north side of the Abbay of Bardeney, and within a half quarter of a myle lower runneth into the great Rhe of Lindis, is cawllid Panton bek. Thys bek riseth yn Hy Lindesey, as Master West thynkketh not very far fro the quarters wher as the Bane doth rise. Then to Hilles, a maner place of Master Hansard, so to Panton, a village a v. myles of; thens to Wragby vil- lage abowt a ii. myles, wherof yt is sumtyme cawlled Wragby bekk; so to Bardeney Abbay a iiii. myles, and then ynto the Ree. The monkes hold opinion that the old Abbay of Bardeney was not in the very same place wher the new ys, but at a graunge or day[re] of theyrs a myle of.
Lude ryver. To Ludebroke village, to Lude alias Louth, the fayre market toun, a 4. miles by Lude Parke. Thens to Grym- bleby f village a mile, and to Salflete g Creke a 4. miles of, and so to the see. Salt [Creke is a havenet, and as the shore lyith it is a vi. miles above Huttoste Creke.]
Meately good plenty of wood about [Bardeney] and Bar- linges, Reseby,h and Kirst[ede Abbays.j
a Calcethorpe. b Burgh on Bane. c Tattershall.
d Witham r. e Kesteven. t Grimoldby.
e Saltfleet. h Risby.
PART IX 37
Dymmok dwellith at Sckrellesby* 2. miles from Home Lincoln- Castel. 8hire-
S[ir] Christopher Willoughby's sun and heyre dwellith now fo- 52- at Tupholme Priory, and beside enheritith part of the Lorde Wylloughby's landes.
Copledike dwellith at Harington 2. Miles from Spilesby market.
Asschecue dwellith about Thorton Curtois.b
Wimbische hath Nokton Parke Priory, and ys beside a man of great possessions and auncient. He maried the Lord Taylbois sister.
Litlebyri at Stanesby c in Haghworthingham.
The Lord Borow dwellith at Gaynesborow.
Gaynesborow ys his, and much lande ys about Sheffield in Axholme.
Dalisun a litle a this side Axholme.
Henege at Haynton,d where he is lorde and patrone.
The olde Henege landes passid not a fyvety poundes by the yere. Haynton is withyn a 3. miles of Raysun market, and a vii. miles from Home Castel.
Syr Thomas Hennage hath doone much cost ther, yn translating and new building with brike and abbay stone.
Sandon dwellith at Ascheby half a mile from Spilesby.
Porter by Grauntham.
Harington beside Ankestre.6
Billesby dwellith by Billesby/ withyn a mile of Markeby Priory.
Fitzwilliams a Maplethorp g by Sutton on the [se side.
Hastinges . . . Wlkseby a 3. . . .]*
Langton at Langton a litle from Wlkesby.11
Asterby in Billesby a man of mene land.
Totheby of Thotheby ' by Alford.
Gedeney of Mavis Enderby a mene gentilman.
Quathering by Waynflete.
[* Torn since Hearne's time^ He saw fragments of two lines more. Stow omits all this leaf.] *
a Scrivelsby. b Thornton Curtis. c Stainsby.
d Hainton. e Ancaster. f Bilsby.
e Mablethorpe. h Wilksby. * PThoresby.
Lincoln- shire.
38 LELAND'S ITINERARY
S. Paulle.
Misselden about Castre." Luddington.
Turwithe about Barton apon Humbre. Turner.
Sutton at Lincoln. Dymmok of Carleton by Lincoln. Massingberde beside Waynflet. Haul by Grauntham.
Welleby at Hanstede a lit[le from Sticjkeswald Priory, a man of [fair landes.]
Yorkshire, fo. 53.
Dancastre.*
Wakefeld.
Wakefeld apon Calder ys a very quik market toune, and meately large; wel servid of flesch and fische both from the se and by ryvers, wherof dyvers be theraboute at hande. So that al vitaile is very good chepe there. A right honest man shal fare wel for 2. pens a meale. In the toune is but one chefe chirch. There is a chapel beside where was wont to be Anachoreta in media urbe, unde et aliquando inventa faecunda. Ther is also a chapel of our Lady on Calder Bridge wont to be celebratid a peregrinis. A forow lenght, or more, oute of the toune be scene dikes and bulwarkes, and monticulus egestae terrae, indicium turris spectilaris. Wherby apperith that ther hath bene a castel. The Guarines Erles of Surrey, as I reede, were ons lordes of this toune. It standith now al by clothyng. The Duke of York, father to Edwarde the 4. was slayne by Wakefeld in bataile.
Bradeforde a praty quik market toune, dimidio, aut eo
amplius, minus Wachefelda. It hath one paroche chirche,
and a chapel of S. Sitha. It standith much by clothing, and
Christopolis. is distant vi. miles from Halifax, and 4. miles from Christe-
stal Abbay.b Ther is a confluens in this toune of 3. brokes.
One risith above Bouline c Haul, so that the hed is a mile
• dim. from the toune, and this at the toune hath a bridge of
[* A blank page except for this word.]
a Caistor.
b Kirkstall.
c Bowling.
PART IX 39
one arche. A nother [risethe] a 2. mile of, having a mille Yorkshire, and a bridge of [. . . The 3. risith 4. miles of havinge. . . .] Bouline Haul sumtyme the Boulines. Now it longith to Tempeste. It stondith a mile . . . Bradeforde.
Beverle. fo. 54.
Beverle is a very larg town; but I cowld not perceyve that ever hit was waulled, though ther be certen gates of stone portcolesed for defence. In the town be a iii. paroche chyrches; the mynstre wher S. John sumtime Bisshop of York lieth, and one chapel. Ther is also a howse of grey freres, and an other of blak, and an howse as a com- mawndery of S. John's. Ther is a great gut cut from the town to the ripe of Hulle Ryver, wherby preaty vesseles cum thyther. Ther cummeth owt of the Bisshopes parke, Westwoode, therby a litle fresch broke to the town.
To this toune long many great and auncient pryvileges as to a sanctuary.
The towne hath yn theyr commune scale the figure of a bever.
Bede cawlleth the place where Beverle is now Sylva Dei- rorum, Anglice Deirewauld.
In steede of the mynstre there was in old tyme an abbay of munkkes, and nunnes, destroied almost by the Danes.
Brithung, S. John's decon was sumtyme abbate there, and ys buried ther.
Ther is also buried S. Winwaldus.
Ledis," 2. miles lower then Christal Abbay on Aire Ryver, is a praty market, having one paroche chirch reasonably welle buildid, and as large as Bradeford, but not so quik as it. The toun stondith most by clothing.
Hulle.* fo. 54v<>.
Pikering.
[* This and the following seven names with wide blanks left for notes occupy several unnumbered leaves bound in among those num- bered.]
» Leeds.
40 LELAND'S ITINERARY
Yorkshire. Tadcaster.
Borowbridg. Alboro.
York.
Keterik.0
Ripon.
Richemont.
fo. 55. In Darbyshire.*
Lancashire. Bruscowb (Briscot) a priory of blake chanons of the fundation of the Erles of Darby a mile from Latham.c It standith not very far from Duggils.d Many of the line of the Erles of Darby lyith there.
Holand a priory of blake monkes a ii. myles from Wigan. The Wottons were founders there.
Sawley f stondith on Calder Ryver. fo. 56. Lancastreshire conteinith v. litle shires. J
Westarbyshire, alias Darbyshire.
Lyrpole, alias Lyverpoole, a pavid towne, hath but a chapel. Walton, a iiii. miles of nat far from the se, is paroche chirch. The King hath a castelet there, and the Erie of Darbe hath a stone howse there. Irisch marchauntes cum
[* "I.e. the hundred of Darby. Briscot is certainly misnamed for Burscough, there being such a priory about a mile from Latham." — (Note on a slip of paper pinned in S tow's copy, written by Hearne's friend, Mr. Prescot, of Chester.) Leland corrected Bruscow to Briscot.]
[t Leland corrects to Wawley. He probably means Whalley, on the Lancashire Calder r. See fo. 58.]
[J The piece from "Lancastreshire — a iii in bredthe" (p. 43) is printed from a closely written leaf bound in by the reversed edge to Leland's MS., vol. viii, re-numbered by Burton, pp. 47, 48; it was probably fo. 56 of his vol. vii, and Stow copied it with omissions in this place. On the top of p. 47 is a large cross in pencil, put there by Burton evidently as a reference, but I do not find the corresponding mark; two others like it occur on pp. 224, 225 of his MS <*.]
Calterick. b Burscough.
0 Lathom.
d Duggils.
PART IX 41
much thither, as to a good haven. After that Mersey Water Lancashire, cumming toward Runcorne in Chesshire lisith * amonge the commune people the name, and to Lyrpole, a v. mile on the other side in Lancastreshire, is [cajwllid Runco[rn]e Water.
At Lyrpole is smaule custume payid that causith mar- chantes to resorte. Good marchandis at Lyrpole, and moch Yrisch yarn that Manchester men do by ther.
Warington, apon Mersey in Chestreshire, a pavid town, one chirch, a freres Augustine at the bridge ende. The town is of a prety bygnes, the paroche chirch is at the tayle of al the tounne. It is a better market then Manchestre.
Thelewaul sumtime a havenet and litle cite, as it apperith by the Kinges Recordes. Now fische garthes marre the haven, and the old toune now a poore village. It stondith a ii. myles upward from Warington.
Thelewaulle so caullid bycawse it was wallid abowt with greate ... Us that is to ... de Logges or timber postes.
Wigan pavid, as bigge as Warington and better buildid. There is one paroch chirch amidde the towne : summe mar- chauntes, sum artificers, sum fermers.
Mr. Bradeshau hath a place caullid Hawe a myle from Wigan. He hath founde moche canel like se coole in his grounde very profitable to hym, and Gerade of Ynse a dwellith in that paroch. Winwike a good benefice a v. mile of and a iii. from Warington.f
Ormekirk a iiii. miles or v. myles from Lyrpole, and about a ii. miles from Latham. A paroch chirche in the towne. No river by yt but mosses of eche side. Latheham b most parte of stone, the chefest howse of the Erles of Darby, ii. miles from Ormeskirk.
Newton" on a brooke cawllid Golforden, a litle poore market, wherof Mr. Langton hath the name of his baronry.
[* I.e., leseth or loseth.] [1
[t A paragraph in the margin here appears to relate to Waveney, but is too much torn to re-construct, and Stow does not give it: . . . ey apon . . . ey Water ... to Mersey . . . e Name . . . the beste . . . ace of the . . . te L . . . stondith . . . Parke a mile from Warington.]
a Ince, near Wigan. b Lathom.
c Newton, near Warrington.
LELAND'S ITINERARY
Lancashire. Syr Perse Lee of Bradley hath his place at Bradley in a parke a ii. miles from Newton.
Newton is a iiii. miles from Morley Haulle.
Prestcod a a litle market having no notable water abowt hit a iiii. mile from Mersey up toward Lyrpole. Mr. Moli- neux a knight of great landes a ii. myles from Prestcode dwellith at a place caullid Crostoffe.b Tokstaffe c a parke of the Kinges harde by his howse. Knollesley d a parke having a praty house of the Erles of Darby within a mile of Prestcod.
Syr William Norys dwellith at a howse caullid Speyke e a ii. or iii. miles from Prestcod and thereabowt from Flor . eskir . . . Thomas Ireland dwellith [af] . . . [Rumcorne on Mersey river.] *
Mr. Leland rekenith Preston in Andernes to be a litle shire, and so ther be vi. shires or hunderes in Lancastre- shire.
Westerbyshire.
Chateley Moref in Darbyshire is a iii. or iiii. miles in bredthe.
Glasbrokeg River cummith within lesse then a mile of Morley Hawle.
There be xii. paroche chirchis in Darbyshir, but they be large.
Winwike personage hath a parke, and is a ii. or iii. miles from Werington.
Flete and a nother broke or ii. cummith into Glasbrooke. and Glasebrooke goith into Mers[ey.]
Dugles h Ryver cumming by Wigan Market goith into the se by hit self toward Latham.
Chateley More a vi. miles yn lenght sum [way] brast up within a mile of Morley Haul, and [dejstroied much grounde with mosse therabout, and destroid much fresch water fische
[* Words now gone, seen by Hearne; those in italics seen by Burton (a).] [t This is in Burton's hand.]
Lancashire.
Firre Woode in Chateley Mosse. t
Prescot. Knowsley,
8 Glazebrook.
b ? Croxeth. e Speke Hall.
c Toxteth. f Chat Moss
Douglas r.
PART IX 43
therabowt, first corrupting with stinking water Glasebrooke, Lancashire.
and so Glasebrook carr[ied] stinking water and mosse into
Mersey Water, and Marsey corruptid caried the roulling
mosse part to the shores of Wales, part to the Isle of Man,
and sum into Ireland. In the very toppe of Chate moo[re]
where the mosse was hyest and brake, is now a faire plaine
valley, as was in tymes paste, and a rille runnith in hit, and
peaces of smaul trees be founde in the botom.
Canale and cole pittes in divers partes of Darbyshire. The great myne of canale is at Hawe 2. miles from Wigan. One Bradshaw dwellith at Hawe.a
Martine Meareb towarde Latham is the greatest meare of Lancastreshire, a iiii. miles in lengthe and a iii. in bredthe.
Saltfordeshire. fo. 57.
Manchestre. f
Byri on Irwel Water, 4. or v. miles from Manchestre, but a poore market. There is a ruine of a castel by the paroch chirch yn the towne. It longgid with the towne sumtime to the Pilkentons, now to the Erles of Darby. Pilkenton had a place hard by Pilkenton Parke c 3. mile from Man- chester.
Bolton apon Moore market stondith most by cottons and cowrse yarne. Divers villages in the mores abowt Bolton do make cottons. Nother the site nor ground aboute Bolton is so good as it is aboute Byri. They burne at Bolton sum canale, but more se cole of the wich the pittes be not far of. They burne turfe also.
Yerne in tymes paste made at Orwike d a . . . miles from Manchestre.
Yerne sumtime made abowte Byri a market towne on Irwel.
Now for lakke of woodde the blow-shoppes decay there.
Wild bores, bulles, and falcons bredde in times paste at Blakele."
[t A blank after this word.]
Haigh. b Martin mere. c Pilkinton.
d Horwich. e Blackley.
44
LELAND'S ITINERARY
Lancashire. Market tonnes in Lelandshire.
fo. 58. Chorle a wonderful poore or rather no market.
Croston a iii. miles from Chorle toward Latham a vi. miles from Chorle, a poore or no market.
There be abowt a vii- or viii. large paroches yn Leland- shire.
Darwent River cummith thorowgh a pece of Leland- shire.
Darwent cummith by Mr. Langton's place Baron of New- ton by Warington a mile above Preston.
Loke better. Ribil risith in Ribilsdale above Salley Abbay, and so to Sawlley. A iiii. miles beneth Sawley it reseyvith Calder that cummith by Walley; and after receyvith a nother water cawllid Oder.a
Waulleyb a x. miles from Preston; Sawlley a ... miles or more.
Blakeburnshire. *
fo. 59. Owt of a charte of Merton-College.f
The next river by se movith by Cairluel bakward on the same shore. There is a water made cumming from Chiswik c to the se.
The next to that cumming to the se is there cawllid Eske.
Next to that Doden,d and betwixt them is set Millum.
Next upward into Lancastreshire is set the mowth of the river of Leven.
Then Kent e River cumming to the se.
After is sett Ribyl.
And then Mersey Water.
Dorset. In a nother Carte of Merton-College.
Bridport is set as midde way betwixt Waymouth and Lime.
[* At head of a blank page.]
[f These notes, from a chart or map in Oxford, must have been written later by Leland on the blank leaf; they break in to the account of the shires of Lancashire. Stow omits them.]
Hodder r.
t> Whalley. Dudden r.
c Keswick, and the Derwent r. e Kennet r.
PART IX 45
Lelandus. At Bridporth be made good daggers.
Lancastreshire. fo. 60.
Lancashire.
The hedde of Lune River by al aestimation must be yn fo. 61. Coterine Hille, or not far fro the root of it. Owt of this hille risith Ure, Sawle, and Edon.a
Howbeit M. Moore of S. Caterines Haul in Cambridge thus enstructed me of Lune Ryver. Yt risith yn a hil cawlled Crosho, the which is yn the Egge of Richemontshire, and issueth owt of iii. or iiii. heddes. He woold it should be first cawlled Lune in Dentdale, though the name of Dent seme to shew otherwise. North fro Uentdale ys Garsedale, and thorough that rynneth a water that after cummeth into Sebbar Vale, and ther is also a water meeting with Garse- dale Water, and a lytle lower yn one streame they go ynto Dentdale Water, which he supposeth to be the streame that afterward is cawlled Lune. Beside the waters afore it re- ceyveth at the foote of Sebbar Vale a great brook, the which cummeth owt of the north betwixt Westmereland and Richemundshire.
This ryver runneth a vii. miles or it cum to Dentdale Foote, and hath receyved into his botom the waters afore- saide. Fro Dentdale Foote yt entereth into Landesdale," peraventure so corruptely cawlled for Lunesdale, and run- neth yn it a viii. or ix. myles sowthwarde; and yn this dale is Kyrkby,0 a very great and famose paroch a iiii. myles fro the foote of Dentdale. Fro Lunesdale yn whos foote ys Hornby Castel longing to the Lord Montegle half a myle fro the Lune. Fro thens it runneth to Lancastre, (set on the sowth side of Lune) corruptely spoken for Lunecastre viii. miles of, wither it ebbeth and floueth.
Sum say that the north arme upward is principal streame of Lune, the which is not of estimation til yt cum ynto Lunesdale.
The mines of old walles about the bridg were onely of the suppressid priory.
a Swale and Eden rivers. b Lonsdale. ° Kirkby Lonsdale.
46
LELAND'S ITINERARY
Westmor- land.
fo. 62.
Lancashire. Borow a now a vyllage, set in Lunesdale a vi. myles beneth the foote of Dentdale, hath beene by likelyhod sum notable town. The plough menne find there yn ering lapides quad- rafos, and many other straung thinges : and this place is much spoken of, of the inhabitans there.
In Westermerland is but one good market town cawlled Kendale, otherwise, as I wene, Kirkby Kendale. Yt hath the name of the river cawlled Kent, unde et Kendale, sed Emporium lands pannis celeberrimum. In the towne is but one chirch. The circuite of the paroch by the cuntery ad- jacent hath many chapels, and divers yn the town self. Abowt half a myle of on the east side of the towne is on a hil a parke longging to yowng M. Par, the chyfest of that name, and ther is a place as it were a castel.
Kent ryver is of a good depthe, not wel to be occupied with botes for rowllyng stones and other moles. Yt risith of very many heddes, be lykelyhod springging withyn the same Shire. * (A vii. or viii. myles fro Kentdale, wher is a mere communely caullid Kenmore.") A ii. myles abowt Kendale they cum to one good botom, and so to Kentdale towne that standeth on the west side of yt.
Stow, vol. ii,
p. 47.
* The Hed of Kenne Rever.f
It risethe at Kenmore b in a poole somwhat large about a myle in compase and muche fishe in it. The place of the heade and all the Baronye of Kendale is in Westmorland, and kepithe Sher Courts at Apleby, and bysyde thethar cummythe all Westmerland.
Kenne nuage J and more is a 8 myles flat nothe from Kendall on the way to Perithe,c and ther is a chapell long- ynge as a parte onto Kendale paroche. Kentmore Haul, Gilpins howse. The first parte of the river descendithe in betwyxt 2 hilles. New bridge 2 miles lower of tymber. Then
[* Marginal note in MS.]
[t This passage -Jf — •& is only preserved by Stow, being at the end of some notes which continue his copy of Leland's vol. v. See our vol. iv, p. 33 note.]
[J Sic. Stow has probably copied it wrongly.]
8 Burrow on the Lune.
b Kentmere.
c Penrith.
PART IX 47
to Barley a smaule bridge * of stone in Staueley hamlet, a myle Westmor-
lower. Thens 2 myles to Bowstone bridge of stone, then to land-
Burnes syde a myle, wher the Bellenghams dwell and is of
stone. Then to Kendall a myle and halfe lower, and ren-
nythe thrwghe Stramangate bridge of stone havynge 8 or 9
arches, and the paroche churche by est is towchid with this
ryver; and thens a quartar and more of a myle it goythe to
Nether-bridge of stone of 3 or 4 arches standynge playne
este toward Yorke, and then 4 or 5 miles to Leuenbridge a
of stone and then to ... Kendale Gates notable as wayes but
not defensible. Stricland Gate to Stricland village north-ward.
Stramangate named of the bridge. Kyrkegate, the greatyst
stret lyethe northe and southe. Pronte river goithe into
Ken ryver a myle above Stramangate bridge. Ther longithe
about a 30 chapells and hamlets to the hedd chirche of
Kendale. The parsonage was inpropriate to S. Mari of
Yorke. The castle is by est halfe a quarter of a myle from
the towne.*
Appleby is the Shire towne, but now yt is but a poore Leland, vii, village, having a ruinus castel wherin the prisoners be kept. f°. 62 contd.
Ther is an old castel on the . . . side of Edon Water cawlled Burgh. b
Abowtadim. fro the castel is a vill[age cawlljed Burgh[am],c and ther is a great pilgrem[age to owr lady.] t
At Burgham is an old castel that the commune people no fo. ther sayeth doth synke.
Abowt this Burgham plowghmen fynd in the feldes many square stones tokens of old buildinges. The castel is set in a stronge place by reasons of ryvers enclosing the cuntery thereabowt.
There is a very greate lake, or mere, wherof part is under the egge of Furnes Felles, cawlled Wynermerewath,d wher- in a straung fisch cawlled a chare, not sene els there in the cuntery as they say.
[* Stow has "a smaule of Stone bridge," doubtless an error in copying.]
learne supplies these words. Not in Stow.]
Levensbridge. b Brough. c Brougham.
d Windermere.
48 LELAND'S ITINERARY
Westmor- Abowt the borders of Westmerelandshire and Lancastre- land. shire be many dales. And in [every] one of them a brooke
givyng name to the dale.
Ther is in Westmerland, as it is said, a famose stone as a limes of old time, inscribed.
Withyn a myle of Perith,a but in Westmerland, is a mine, as sum suppose, of a castel withyn a flite shotte of Loder b and as much of Emot Water,0 stonding almost as a mediamnis betwixt them ; the ruine is of sum caulled the Round Table, and of summe Arture's Castel. A myle lower m[etithe] Loder and Emot at Burgham Castel.
Durham. Market Townes in Dirhamshire.*
fo. 63. Duneholm.d
Akeland.6
Wichingam/
The quikke market of Darlington standing betwixt Teese and Were.8
Stoketon apon Tese.
Wulsingam apon Were almost in the midde way betwixt Stanhop and Akeland.
Hertilpole.h
f°- 64- Castelles in Dirhamshire.
Duneholm. Akeland.
Prudho apon Tine. Stoketon apon Tese. Barnardes Castel. Lomeley * Castel not far from Chestre.k
Abbais and Priories in Dirhamshire. Duneholme apon Were river.
[* All these four lists of Durham names are written as headings, with blank spaces between.]
* Penrith. b Lowther r. c Eamont r.
d Durham. e Auckland. f Whickham.
s Wear r. h Hartlepool. J Lumley.
k Chester-le-Street.
PART IX 49
Finkelo * apon Were, a celle of xiii. monkes longging to Durham. Dirham.
Weremouth.
Garaw.b
There was a priori not farre from Darington,0 as I remem- ber aboute Teis ryver.
The Limites of Dirhamshire. no fo.*
Tese river.
Tine river on til he receyve Darwent water.
Erie of Northumbr. Lord of the Honors of Cokermuth fo. 66. et Petworth. Lorde Percy, Lucy. Lorde Poyninges, Fiz- paine, Brian.
Cokermuth cam by Lucy. Petworth by gift of a king [Hen. Lit
Fizpaine and Brian's landes cam to Poyninges, and by Poyning heyre general al iii. to Percy.
The Erie of Northumbr. Castelles and Manors.
Cokermuth in Cumbreland, a 700. //. by yere.
Alnewik, Werkworth castel, Langeley and Prudehow in Northum- Northumbreland, Rothebyri lordeship on Koket a vii. berland. miles above Anewik, wher is such a toun as Corbridge. Corbridg lordship, wher appere greate tokens of buildinges by square stones. Chatton lordship apon Tille a mile from Chillingham.
In Yorkshire.
Semar,d Hundemanby" nere Semar. Poklington market a 2. miles from Semar. Lekingfeldf ii. miles from Beverle. Wresil* Castel ii. miles from Howden market, where the Bisshop of Dirham hath -a faire palace. Catton wher is a parke as is almoste of the lordshipes afore rehersid. Spofford h
[* Fo. 65 is a blank leaf, bound in between fos. 64 and 66. The un- numbered leaf above is bound in after fo. 66. ] [t Written by Burton on Leland's MS.]
a Finchale. b J arrow. c Darlington.
d Seamer. e Hunmanby. f Leconfield.
« Wressell Castle. h Spofforth. V. E
50 LELAND'S ITINERARY
a greate village a 2. miles from Oteley apon Eyre3 river. Topclif on Suale a goodly maner house yn a parke. Tad- castre, and Hele, Lyndeley by Spofford wher Syr Thomas Johnson now is heyre.
He had yn Kent a 500. mark of Poyning[es landes.] *
In Southsax Poyninges lordship. Petw[orth.] fo. 67. Torre Brian in Somersetshire that Master Kitson boute.
The Lorde Marquis of Excester had much of hys londes yn Devonshire.
He had castelles yn Wales, and was there a greate lorde marcher. Peraventure Paine Castel by Wy was his. For he bare the name of the Lorde Fizpaine.
He had sum lande yn Southfolke and Cambridgeshire.
He had Taulaughar b a castel about the mouth of Teuy cumming from Cairmerdine.
Cumberland. From Cairluel to Burge on the sandes vi. myles. fo. 68. From Burg to Workington xii. myles.
From Workington to S. Bees xiiii.
From S. Bees to Fumes by the se cost xiiii. myles. Lancashire. From Fumes to Lancastre xii. myles.
From Lancastre to Preston xx. miles, fo. 69. Eske flu. limes est Scotiae et Angliae.
Cumberland. Lithel flu. defluit in Eskam. Lither f defluit in Eskam at Motel Lithel?
At Motel Lithel was a moted place of a gentilman cawled Syr Water Seleby, the which was killyd there, and the place destroyed yn King Edward the thyrde, when the Scottes whent to Dyrham, and theyr king was take by Copland at Dyrham on a hil therby wher was many Scottes buried.
Bolnes d ys at the poynt or playne of the ryver of Edon,e wher ys a lytle poore steple as a fortelet for a brunt, and yt ys on the hyther syde of the ryver of Edon, abowt a viii. myles from Cair Luel.f Abowt this Bolnesse ys part of the
[* Hearne saw these. Neither Stow nor Burton copied fos. 66, 67.] [t Leland wrote Lither twice, but corrected it to Lithel in the first word. This seems to be the Lidd r.]
a Aire r., but Otley is on the Wharfe. b Tal Llacharne, or Laugharne. c Liddel Strength, Cumberland. d Bowness. e Eden r.
Carlisle.
PART IX 51
Pict wal evidently remayning, and yt may be supposed that Cumberland, yt is cawled Bolnes, as who showld say the Wal yee, or I doute yet poynt, or end. of this.
Burgh yn the sand stondeth a myle of fro the hyther banke of Edon. Yt is a village by the which remayne the ruines of a greate place, now clene desolated, wher King Edward the fyrst dyed. Burgh stondeth from Bolnes iii. myles, and iiii. myles or v. fro Cair Luel.
Burgh longid sumtime to the Morvilles.
Here was a xv. yeres ago the Lord Maxwel * sore woundid, many [sljaine, and [droujnid in Edon. [Strjife ther . . . tuaine. ... ge ... Scotland . . . and [took hym] prisoner.f
At Drumbuygh a the Lord Dakers father builded apon old ruines a prety pyle for defens of the contery. Drumbuygh ys almost yn the mydde way bytwyxt Bolnes and [Burgh]. The stones of the Pict wal wer [pulled d]own to build Dumbuygh. For the wal [ys very njere yt.
Netherby is a vii. myles north fro Cairluel, and Eske ryver rynneth on the north side of yt. Ther hath bene mervelus buyldinges, as appere by ruinus walles, and men alyve have sene rynges and staples yn the walles, as yt had bene stayes or holdes for shyppes. On the one side of yt is the Eatable ground; so that it is as a limes Angliae et Scotiae. The ruines be now a iii. myles at the lest from the flowyng water of Sulway sandes. The gresse groweth now on the ruines of the walles.
Rokclif a preaty pile or castel of the Lord Dakers over Edon on the farther ripe, about a iiii. mile from Cairluel.
The towne of Cokermuth stondeth on the ryver of Coker, fo. 70. the which thwartheth over the town, and Coker runneth yn Darwent hard at the point of the castel of Cokermuth.
[* This was in the year 1524. (An. reg. 16, H. 8.) See Hall's Chron. in the Life of H. 8. fol. 129. b. and Holhngshead's History of Scotland, p. 311. So that this was written by Mr. Leland in the year 1539, being six years after he had receiv'd his Commission to travel from the King. — Hearne.]
[t The bracketed words in this paragraph and the next seen by Hearne are now gone. Stow omits these paragraphs.]
• Drumburgh.
52 LELAND'S ITINERARY
Cumberland. The ryver of Dargwent after that he cummeth to a strayte curse, casteth owt an arme of his abundant water that mak- eth a poole, or lough, cawlled Use, and afterward strayteth, and at the last cummeth ynto Dargwent, and so maketh an isle.
Forestes.
The great forest of Englewood (Engylwood).
The forest of Nicol longing to the Du[ke of] Lancastre.
The forest of Einerdale.
A xxx. yeres ago not far fro the chapel of [the] Moore, the which is in Come Whitton a par[och] in Gillesland, and stondeth a vi. myles est from Cairluel, was fownd a grave, and theryn [bonjys inusitatae magnitudinis.
[Wythyn] a quarter of a myle of Cairl[uel a xx. yerejs ago was take up [pypes of an old conduyte, whos hedde by lyke- lyhod . . . wiled Typping Castel . . .]
This conduct semed to be the conduit of ... d not . . .*
The cyte of Cairluel is yn cumpace scant a myle, and ys walled with a right fayre and stronge wal ex lapide quadrato subnifo.
In the wal be iii. gates, Bocher gate (south), Caldew gate (west), and Richard gate (north).
The castel being withyn the towne is yn sum part as a closer of the walle.
Leyland. The Irisch men cawle bale a town, and so per- aventure did the old Scottes. Thus might be said that Lu- gubalia f soundeth Luele towne.
In the cyte be ii. paroche chyrches, of the which the one is yn the body of the cathedral chyrch, yn the which be Canons Regulars as els be yn no cathedral chyrch of Eng- lande. The other is of S. Cuthebert.
Ther is yn the towne a chapel of S. Albane, and also withyn the walles ii. howses of freres, Blake and Gray.
[* Bracketed words seen by Hearne, now gone. Stow omits these paragraphs. Of the second, which was in the margin, there is now no trace. ]
[+ Now Carlisle. Bal, a Celtic word corresponding to old English ton.
a Cumwhitton.
PART IX 53
In diggyng to make new building yn the towne often Cumberland, tymes hath bene, and now a late, fownd diverse fundations of the old cite, as pavimentes of streates, old arches of dores, coyne, stones squared, paynted pottes, rhony hid yn pottes so hold and muldid that when yt was stronly towchid yt went almost to mowlder: as yn M . . . glalbys howse yn diggyng for the squaryng [of] * his gardin and orchard the which ston[d]eth much sowth.
[Th]e hole site of the towne is sore chaungid. For wher as the stretes were and great edifices, now be vacant and garden plottes.
The cite of Cairluel stondeth in the forest of Ynglewood.
The body of the cathedral chyrch is of an older building then the quyer. And [yt ys as] a filial deriveid from S. Os- w [aid's fast] by Pontfreyt.
[In the] feldes abowt Cairluel yn plowghing hath be [fownd diverse cornelines and other stonys] wel entaylid for [seales, and yn other places of Cumbarland in plowinge hath be found brickes conteyninge the prints of antique workes.]
The lenght of Cumbreland by the shore is from a water fo. 71. cawled Dudden," the which devideth Furnesland b fro Cum- breland, onto a lytle water or mere cawlled Poll Rosse,0 the which devideth the cownte of Northumberland on the est side from Cumbreland.
The bredeth of Cumbreland is from a water cawled Emotd that divideth on the sowth side on the one part Cumberland from Westmerland ontyl he enter ynto the ryver of Edon ii. myles fro Pereth e by est, and so on the est side of Edon up to a broke cawled t . . . the which divideth lykewise Cumbreland fro Westmerland, onto the ryver of Eske on the north side, the which devideth Cumbreland fro the batable grownd ontil yt cum to the arme of the se, the which divideth England fro Scotland.
[* Supplied by L. T. S.]
[t Blank in original. Cookburn Beck is intended.]
• Duddon r. b Furness, part of Lancashire.
c Tipalt burn. d Kamont r.
e Penrith.
54 LELAND'S ITINERARY
Cumberland. Market townes yn the Shyre.
Cairluel.
Pereth a market towne by sowthe, xvi. myles fro Car- luel, w[here] as a strong caste! of the kinges, and [stonjdeth on a lytle water by force cut owt of Peterel.a But Pereth stondeth [not]able dim. a myle fro the river of Emot, [and a] myle fro the towne or caste[l of B]urgham,b that longeth to the Erie of [Cumb]reland.
In Perith ys one paroche chirch, and a gray freres.
[Cokejrmuth a market towne stondyng on the [westsyde] of Darwent river iiii. or v. [myles fro the se shore, and] xx. myles fro [Carluel.]
Also on the west syde of Darwent is a prety creke wher as shyppes cum to, wher as ys a lytle prety fyssher town cawled Wyrkenton,c and ther is the chefe howse of Sir Thomas Culwyn.*
On the est side of the ysle, where as the water of Dar- guent risith, is a lytle poore market town cawled Keswike, and yt is a myle fro S. Herebertes isle d that Bede speketh of. Divers springes cummeth owt of Borodale, and so make a great lowgh that we cawle a poole;6 and ther yn be iii. isles. Yn the one f ys the hedd places of M. Radclyf,g an other is cawled S. Hereberts isle, wher is a chapel, the iii. ys Vycar isle, ful of trees lyke a wyldernes.
Abbays or priores yn Cumbreland.
The Chanons of Cairluel.
Wetherhaul,h a selle of S. Mary Abbay, iii. myles sowth est above Cairluel apon the ryver of Edon, on the same side of the ryver of Edon that Cairluel doth.
Lenercost f an abbay of Blake Chanons viii. myles fro Cairluel, apon the north side of the ryver of Yrthyng.
[* Stow copies Curtuyn, not observing Leland's correction of r to /. There is a Cur wen Island in Windamere.]
[t A small a is written above the first e, but it does not seem to be in Leland's hand.]
a Petterill r., see after, p. 56. b Brougham.
c Workington. d S. Herbert's I.
e Derwentwater. f Lord's Island.
B Ratcliffe, Lord Derwentwater. h Wetheral.
PART IX
55
EHojlme Cultrayne a Abbay of white monkes. Cumberland.
S.] [Beges b yn Caupland hard on the west se, a selle longing to S. Mary Abbay of Yorke, abowt xxvi. myles or more playne west.
Caldher c Abbay of whyte monkes yn Cape[land] d not very far from S. Beges, and nere to Egremont Castel.
At Ki\eyc primis annis Henrici 81. not far from Norham yn the lordship of the Bisshop [of Dyrham,] was fownd, be- t[wixt ii. stonys,] bokels of an arming girdel, typpes and barres of [the same of pure] gold, a pomel and a crosse [for a sword of golde, bokels and typps of gold for spurres. D. Ruthall * had some of them.]
Egermont . . . myles by sowth from Cokermuth. Yt fo. 72. longith to the Lord Fizgualter. Yt stondeth by the market towne of Egremont.
At Cokermuth, a good market towne, a castel of the Erl of Northumbreland, the wich joyneth hard to the towne.
Bowe Castel longging to the King x. myles est fro Cairluel. On Kirkebek.
Nere abowt Bou Castel alias Belcastel be fownd Briton brikes, with entayled worke and portretures, yn the old fundations.
Fro Bowe Castel to Naward a fair castel f of the Lord Dacers iiii. myles sowt fro Naward, viii. myles fro Cairluel.
Millum a castel longing to S[er] John Hudelstan stond- ing on the river of Dudden or Dudden Sandes. (Apon a creke by the se side) a XL. yere ago fisch was fownd ther of an infinite greatnes.
Hyghhed Castel a vi. or vii. myles [from] Cairluel by sowth. Yt stondeth on Yve Bek.
Kirke Oswald Castel sowth sowth f est, xii. myles fro Cairluel, and sowth fro Naward. Yt stondeth almost on Edon.
[* Dr. Thomas Ruthall, bp. of Durham, 1509, secretary to Kings Henry VII and VIII. Was lord of Norham Castle.]
[t Over these words Leland wrote two lines, the ends of which are destroyed, viz.: " cavit aut re . . . proavus hujus Dacori e . . ."]
• Holme Cultran.
c Calder Abbey.
e ? Kyloe in Northumberland.
b St. Bees.
d Coupland barony.
f Naworth Castle.
56 LELAND'S ITINERARY
Cumberland. Perith a a castel of the kinges b[y the] towne of Pereth xvi. myles so[wth] fro Cairluel, and v. myles sowth w[est] from Kirkoswald.
Ther cummeth at [Ingjmer Medow [owt] of Peterel [a g]ut to Penrith, [and at Carlton] half a [myle] of yt runneth ynto Emot, alias ^Eymont. Strikland Bisshop of Cairluel b did the cost to dig [it.]
Graystok Castel0 of the Lorde Dacors, xiiii. myles fro Cairluel sowth, and iii. myles west fro Perith.
Rose a castel of the Bisshops of Cairluel [vi. myles] fro Cairleul by [sowth west.] Bisshop Kightd made hit very [fresh.] *
Ruines of castels desolated and townes.
fo. 72 b. Remember to aske by the Itineray how the old townes stoode.f
In the forest of Ynglewood a vi. myles fro Cairluel appere ruines of a castel cawled Castel Luen.
Leland v, These thinges folowing I lernid of the Vicar or person fo. loi.J of Corbridge at Newcastel.
Northum- Corbridg about a xi. miles from Newcastelle: But to go berland. to jt the next way from Duresme it is not past a 16. or 18. miles.
Corbridge is on the same ripe of Tine that New Cas- telle is.
The chirch of Corbridge is dedicate onto S. Andre.
The personage was ons impropriate to the Priory of Tin- mouth, sins by exchaunge to Cairluel.
The toune at this tyme is ful meanely buildid.
The names of diverse stretes that hath beene there yet hath names, as old people there testifie, and great tokens
[* This word seen by Hearne, now gone. In this margin appear to have been two short notes, of which only two or three letters are now visible.]
[t Leland's marginal reminder ; did he mean Antonine's Itinerary?] [J These fos. 101-106 are transferred from Part VII. See vol. iv, p. 24, note.]
a Penrith. b William Strickland, bp. of Carlisle, 1400.
c Greystoke castle. d John Kite, bp. of Carlisle, 1513-21.
PART IX
57
of old foundations be yet founde there, and also Numis- Northum- mata Ro. berland.
The stone bridge that now is at Corbridge over Tine is larg, but it is set sumwhat lower apon Tine then the olde bridg was.
Ther be evident tokens yet seene where the olde bridg was, and theraboute cummith downe a praty broke on the same side that that the toun is on, and hard by it, and goit into Tine. I thing verely that this broke is caullid Corve, though the name be not welle knowen there, and that the toune berith the name of it (Colus flu.).*
By this broke as emong the ruines of the olde town is a place caullid Colecester, wher hath beene a forteres or castelle. The peple there say that ther dwellid yn it one Yoton, whom they fable to have beene a gygant.
There is no bridge on Tyne, as I remembre, bytwixt Newcastelle and Corbridge.
As far as I can perceyve by the boke of the life of S. Oswin the martyr, Colebrige is alway put ther for Corbridge. Colebridge.
There appere ruines of arches of a stone bridge over Tyne fo. 102. river, at ... Castelle longging to the Erie of Westmerland a 3. miles lower on the ryver then Corbridge.
Chipchace bridg of ... on Tyne.
Mounbowcher was a man of fair landes in Northumbre- lande : and Doctor Davelle f told me that the hospitale yn Newcastel hath yet landes of his gifte.
The Rudhams were men of fair landes in Northumbre- lande about Tille ryver, ontyl one of them having to wife one of the Humframville doughters killid a man of name, and thereby lost the principale of 600. marke landes by yere. So that at this tyme Rudham of Northumbreland is but a man of mene landes.
Hasilrig of Northamptonshir J hath about a 50. li. lande
[* In the margin.]
[t Dr. Davell, probably Robert archdeacon of Northumberland, one of the signatories for annulling the marriage of Henry with Anne of Cleves, gth July, 1540. Several of the family were in Yorkshire; Henry Davell was the last, abbot of Whitby, and gained a pension of 100 marks in 1539-40.]
[t Burton underlined this word, and corrected it on margin of Leland's MS., "Leicestershire, of Nouseley," now Noseley.]
Northum- berland.
Herbotelle. The division oftheHer- botelles Landes.
fo. 103.
Doctor
Davclle.
58 LELAND'S ITINERARY
in Northumbreland and Esselington, wher is a pratie pile is Hasilrigges, and one of the Colinwooddes dwellith now in it, and hath the over site of his landes.
The ryver of Tamea risith a 10. miles by south west within the land, and cummith into Tyne aboute a mile above Getished," and not far bynethe Ravensworth Castelle.
Tarset Castelle ruines in Northumbreland hard by north Tyne long now to the Lord Borow.
There was one of the Grays of Northumbrelande a man of greate brute in the tyme of Edwarde the 4., that was sus- pect with the Quene of Scottes of adulterie. Wherapon he beying accusid of a gentilman of Scotteland cam with a band, as it is saide, of a 1000. men to Edingborow, and there caste down his glove to fight in the listes with his accuser: but he departid withowte fighteting; yet was it supposid, that Gray was not accusid therof withoute a cawse.
The Herbotelles landes in Northumbreland, that was a 300. markes by the yere, cam of late dayes to 2. doughters, wherof the one was maried to Syr Thomas Percy, that was for treason hangid at Tiburne. The other was maried to Fitton of Chestershir. Mr. Doctor Davel told me that the limes of the Bisshoprike of Duresmegoith beyond the mouth on Darwent up apon Trente even to the paroch of Rytoun.0
A pile or castelet at Bowes on Watheling Streate.
The Davelles cam owte of Normandie, and sins they have be men of greate possessions yn the north partes of England. But they cam in Edwarde the 2. tyme to decay and ruine. For the chief of the Davelles, that was Syr Loson Davelle and Syr Hugh Davelle, both barons (as Mr. Doctor Davelle sayith, but sufficiently to me provid not,) toke Thomas Duke * of Lancaster and the barons part agayne Edwarde the 2. and Peter Gaveston, wherapon Davelles landes were attaintid and sparkelid.
Yet remanid of the name 4. or 5. younger brethern, that after got meane landes: and one of them after in descent
[* Leland wrote Duke> but Burton crossed it through and wrote Earle above. ]
a Teame.
b Gateshead.
Ryton.
PART IX 59
consumid a 100. li. landes by the yere in Notinghamshire Northum- in mere hauking and hunting. berland.
There yet remayne meene gentilmen of the name.
The principal land and habitation of the Davelles was about Pontefracte in Yorkeshire.
Much of the Gascoynes lande and the landes of True- whit, alias Turwit, of Lincolnshir, longid to the Davelles.
The name of the originale house of the Davelles yet remainith yn Normandie aboute the partes, as I have heard, of Alaunsun.
Roger Thorton* the great riche marchaunte of New- castelle in Edwarde the 4. dayes, by whom the Lomeleys landes were greatly augmentid, as by mariage of his dough- ter and heyre, buildid S. Katerines chapelle, the towne haulle, and a place for pore almose menne by Sand Hille gate a litle lower then Newcastelle bridge on the very ripe of Tyne within the toun of Newcastelle. The isle, and almost al the landes that the Lorde Lomeley hath in York- shir and Northumbreland, was this Thorntons. f
This Roger Thorton was the richest marchaunt that ever was dwelling in Newcastelle.
One John Warde a riche marchant of Newcastelle made a maisun dieu for xii. poore men and xii. poore women by the Augustine Freres in Newcastelle.
One Christopher Brigham, a marchant of Newcastelle, made of late a litle hospital by the Gray Freres in New- castelle.
The waulles of Newcastelle were begon, as I have harde, in King Edwarde the firste day, as I harde, by this occa- sion. A great riche man of Newcastelle was taken prisoner by the Scottes owt of the town self as it is reportid. Wher- apon he was raunsomid for a greate sum: and returning fo. 104. home he began to make a waulle on the ripe of Tyne
[* In a small blank in Stow's copy preceding this line is written the following in a hand of the seventeenth century: "This Thornton was at the fyrst very poore, and, as the people report, was a pedler, and of hym to this day they reherse this ryme :
Jn at tjjc Siaaestgate came Thonton [r. Thornton or Thorton] in, <Jf Ittfi a ttalf pnil i.i ] fiapt in a L\ams clnjun. |
[t See further as to the Thorntons and the Lumleys, vol. iv, p. 118.]
6o
LELAND'S ITINERARY
Northum- ryver from Sandehille to Pandon gate and beyound that to
berland. the towre agayne the Augustine Freres.
The residew of the marchauntes of the toune seying this towardnes of one man, sette to their helping handes, and continuid ontylle the hole toun was strongely about waullid, and this worke was finishid in Edwarde the 3. dayes, as I have harde.
The strenghth and magnificens of the waulling of this towne far passith al the waulles of the cities of England and of most of the townes of Europa.*
fo. 106. Prior Castel of Dyrham, the last save one, buildid the toure in Fame Isleland for defence owt of the grounde. Ther was a chapel and a poore house afore.
Ther was a house of chanons at Ovingeham apon Tyne agayne Prudehow a on the other side of Tyne, a master and 3. chanons, celle to Hexham. Humfranville gave the per- sonage of Ovingeham to Hexham that they should find certen chanons ther.
Morley of Morpath b was ons Lord of Wercworth Castel on Coketc mouth.
Dr. Davel told me, that Antony de Bek buildid or renewid Kensington, as he hath hard, and gave it to king or prince. . . . He buildid Duresme Place in London.
Leland vii, f thens yt goith withyn a myle and lesse of Newcastel, and
fo. 72 contd., so croketh upward toward Tinemuth.
see p. 56. Doctor Davel told me that S. Nicolas chirch in New-
castel stondith on the Picth waulle.
Bytwyxt Thyrwald and North Tine yn the wast ground stondeth yet notable peaces of the wall, the which was made ex lapide quadrate^ as yt there appereth yet. Looke wher as the grownd ys best enhabited thorowg the walle, so there yt
[* Part of this page is blank. On it, in a hand of late seventeenth or eighteenth century, is the note: " Continet hoc volumen 92 pag." The original numbering of the leaf was 90 (afterwards altered to 104), the next two leaves are blank. Evidently the original volume ended here.]
[t A blank precedes this paragraph, which appears to relate to the Picts' wall.]
a Prudhoe. c Coquet r.
b Morpeth. d Thirlwall.
PART IX
61
lest appereth by reason of buildinges made of the stones of Northum- the waule. The walle on the farther side toward the Pictes berland. was strongly dichyd. Beside the stone wall, ther appere yet yn very many places vestigia muri cespititii, that was an arow shot a this side the stone wal; but that it was thoroughly made as the stone wal was yt doth not wel appere there.
Fro Bolnes a to Burgh b abowt a iiii. myles, fro thens yt Cumberland, goeth within half a myle of Cairluel,0 and lesse on the north side, and crosseth over Edon a iii. quarters of a myle benethe Cairluel, and so to Terreby d a litel villag a myle fro Cairluel, then thorowgh the barony of Linstok; and thorowgh Gillesland on the north side of the river of Arding6 a quarter of a myle of the abbay of Lenarcost, and then a iii. myles above Lenarcost yt crosseth over Arding, then over the litle brooke of Polt rosse,f the which devideth Gillesland in Cumberland from Sowth Tyndale yn Northumbreland, then to a castel caulled Thirlewal, stondyng on the same, thens directly est thorowgh Sowth Tyndale not far fro the great [ruijnes of the castel of Cairvorein,g the [which] be nere Thyrlewal, and so over North [Tyne, then] directly [est thorowgh the hedd of] Northumbreland.
There is a fame that Oswald wan the batelle at Halydeneh a 2. myles est from S. Oswaldes Asche.' And that Haliden is it that Bede caullith Hevenfeld. And men there aboute yet * finde smaule wod crossis in the grounde.f
% Northomberland.
In Sowthe Tynedale, as in that is be syd Hexhamshire Stow, vol. v, except and yet as a parte of Sowthe or Sowthest Tyndale, is fo> X43- but one paroche churche, and that is caullyd Haultewesel.k
[* Leland interlined they over yet.\
[t Here ends Leland's vol. vii.]
[t From this point to the end of the Part Hearne supplied from Stow, the original leaves being lost. But he does not explain how he guessed his figuring of the folios, which is not in Stow.]
Northum- berland.
fo. 73.
a Bowness. d Tarraby. 8 Carvoran.
b Burgh by Sands. 8 Irthmg r. h Hazeldean.
k Haltwhistle.
Carlisle.
Tipalt burn.
? St. Oswald's chapel.
62 LELAND'S ITINERARY
Northum- There be bisyde aliquot sacella, where of one is not far from berland. Willington, and it is caulyd White Chapell. There lyethe one of the holy Aydans, and othar holy men in the churche yarde by the chapel.
In Northe Tynedale is but one paroche churche cawlyd Simons burne.a In it is aliquot sacella. Sens I hard that Simons burne is in Sowth Tynedale, and that in North Tindale is onely Belingeham chaple longinge to Simons burne.
In Ridesdale be but 3. paroche churchus, the cheffest is Ellesdene. then Halistene, and Corsansid.b To thes parochis resorte the witriding men othar wyse theues* of that Englishe marche.
Rede risethe within 3. miles of the Scottyshe marche. It risethe in the northe, and cummithe sowthwest thrwghe Ridesdale, and so into North Tyne arme, a litle lowgher then Belingham, that stondithe somewhat of off Northe Tyne, and is a x. mils above Hexam.
North Tyne risithe playne northe, and rennith almoste playne northe J til he metith with Southe Tyne.
Some hold opinion that at Halistene,0 or in the river of Coquet, thereabout wer 3000. christenyd in one day inprimi- tiva ecclesia Sax.
Coquet ryver for a certen space of miles devidith Cuque- dale from Ridesdale.
Coquet cummithe by Herbotell,d a goodly castle, and thens to Linne Briggs, sumtyme of stone, now fallen. Ther about was great buyldinge, but now desolation.
New Castle a market towne. fo. 144. Hexham a market towne.
Morpet a market towne is xii. longe miles from New Castle. Wansbeke a praty ryver rynnithe thrwghe the syde
[* Witriding, i.e., outriding men or thieves. Stow's MS. has "witeiding," probably mis-read or badly copied. The spelling "wt," pron. "ut," for out, is used in old Border writings. The Border marauders were known as " outriding " men. See New Eng. Diet., " outrider," § 3, and "outriding."]
[t Read "standeth off of."] [J Evidently error for south.]
* Simondburn. b Corsenside.
c Holystone. d Harbottle.
PART IX 63
of the towne. On the hethar syde of the river is the prin- Northum- cipall churche of the towne. On the same syde is the fayre bei>land. castle stondinge apon a hill, longinge with the towne to the Lord Dacres of Gilsland.
The towne is longe and metely well buyldyd with low howsys, the stretes pavyd. It is far fayrar towne then Alenwike."
A qwartar of a mile owt of the towne on the hithere syde of Wanspekeb was Newe Minster abbay of White Monks, plesaunt with watar and very fayre wood about it.
Alnewike market towne.
Banborowgh now no market towne.
Berwike a merket towne.
Castles in Northumbarland.
New Castle.* *
Chipchace a praty towne and castle, hard on the easte parte of the arme of Northe Tyne, the whiche devidethe Tyndale frome Northehumbarland. For Tyndall thowghe it be as a parte of Northumberland, yet it is as a parte privi- legyd within it selfe.
Tynmouth abbay sumtym usyd for a castle.
Dalawele Castle 4. miles from Tynemouthe, and within a mile of the shore.
Otterburne Castle stondinge on Otter in Ridesdale, the whiche joynethe hard apon North Tyndall.
There be ruines of a castle longynge to the Lorde Borow at Mydforde0 on the sowthe syde of Wansbeke, iiii. miles above Morpeth. It was beten downe by the Kynge. For one Ser Gilbert Midleton robbyd a cardinall cominge out of Scotland, and fled to his castle of Midford.
Morpeth Castle stondythe by Morpith towne. It is set on a highe hill, and about the hill is moche wood. The towne and castle belongeth to the Lord Dacors. It is well mayn- tayned.
Witherington Castle longinge to the Wytheringtons stond-
[* All these four preceding names are left with blank spaces.] * Alnwick. b Wansbeck r. c Mitford.
64 LELAND'S ITINERARY
Northum- ethe with in halfe a myle of the shore, somewhat as towch- berland. inge agains Coket isleland. By it runnithe a title broke on fo. 145. the northe syde, and there is a title village of the same name. The broke renneth into the se by it selfe.
Werkworthe Castell stondythe on the sou the syde of Co- quet watar. It is well maynteyned and is large. It longed to the Erie of Northomberland. It stondithe on a highe hille, the whiche for the more parte is includyd with the ry ver, and is about a mile from the se. Ther is a piety * towne, and at the towne ende is a stone bridge withe a towre on it. Beyond the bridge is Banborowshire.
Alnewik Castle.
Howwikea a title pile longinge to the ... a mile from the shore.
Dunstaneborowgh b a 2. miles beyond Howwik harde on the se shore. It stondethe on a hy stone rok. The castle is more then halfe a mile in compace, and there hathe bene great building in it. Therby is a strong . . .
Betwixt Dunstanborow and Banborow is Embleton, a mile fro the shore, and a mile from Dunstanboro.
Bamborow, sometyme a huge and great castle, one of the strongest in thos partes.
Agerstonc a towre apon the south syde of Lindis ryver.
Chillingham Castle longinge to Ser Edward Grey, whos wyfe was maried to Ser Robert Heldercar.
Foord Castle in Glyndale apon the east syd of Tille.d It is metly stronge, but in decay.
Etel Castel6 stondinge on playne grownde, hard on the este syde of Tylle, longynge to the Erie of Rutland.
Eyton Castle longing to Ser Edward Graye 2. miles lower on Tyle then Etel. It stondithe on the west syd of Tylle. The Scotts at Floden Fild bet it sore.
Werke Castle f on the southe syd of Twede, a praty towne there.
Norham Castle on the same syde.
Berwike on the northe syd.
[* Sic in MS. Read /r<?/y. ]
* Howick. b Dunstanburgh. c Haggerston.
d Till r. « Etal Castle. * Wark Castle.
PART IX
Northum- berland.
fo. 146.
Howsys of Relygion in Northumbarland.
Bolton * of chanons in Cokedale, whiche they call comonly Glinedale. The Lord Rose was foundar there.
Halistane nunre in Ridsdale,a bytwyxt Aidan-bridge and Hexham.
Hexham.
Lamleb a nunrye on Sowthe Tyne.
Brinkborne priorye on Coquet. Blake Chanons by moste likelyhods of the Lisles foundation, or the Feltons before the Lisles.
Haly Eylandc monks.
Bambrughe a cell to S. Oswald.
New Minstar.
Fame.
Coquet a cell to Tynemowthe.
Tinemouth.
Blancheland, Whit Chanons, in Northumbarlandshire. For it stondithe in the farthar syde of Darwent. From Darwent Durham, mouthe to Wyred mouthe the low contry betwixt is cawlyd Wyralshire. Parte, or moste parte of Chester,6 is in Wyrale/
Where as the hospital is now of Saynt Edmond at Getes- hed in Wyrale was sometyme a monastary, as I have hard, and be lykelyhod the same that Bede spekythe of.
Castles.
Huttun8 a faire castle in the midste of Northombarland, as in the bredthe of it. It is a iiii. or v. miles northe from Fenwike pile, and this is the oldist howse of the Swyn- burnes.
Wallington Castle 2. miles est from Hutten. It is the chefist howse of the Fenwiks. Ser John Fenwike is now lorde of it.
Darwent.f
Northum- berland.
[* On Aln r.]
[t Here begins a list of rivers.]
a Holystone nunnery in Redesdale. ° Holy Island. c Chester-le-Street.
f ? Swinburne Castle. V. F
b Lambley. * Wear r.
1 PWeardale.
66 LELAND'S ITINERARY
Northum- Thenis* a litle river cummithe in to Tyne on the southe berland. Sy^e a m[ie above New Castle.
Tyne.
Cone ryverb comithe by Lanchestre or it come to Chester in the Strete. Lanchester a vi. miles west from Chestre.
Hedle broke metithe at Chestre, or there about, with Cone water.
Pont.
Wansbege."
Coketd risethe in Ridesdale in a ground beringe ling, and some what fenny.
Alne.
Rye.e
Bremischef is the very water of Tille; but at the heade and a certayne cowrse it is caullyd Bremiche, and aftar lesethe the name; and is cawllyd Tylle.
Conke, alias Coquet.
Low.
Glyneg risethe in Chivet hills, and so into Glyndale on to Newton village, where is a towr. Ther is a litle broke cawlyd Boubenth cumminge owt of Scotland rennithe into Glyn to Langton village 9. miles of, where is a ruine of a towre a myle of. So to Copland £ village a mile, where the watar brekethe into armes makynge islets ; but sone aftar metynge, and so a 2. mills a this syde Forde Castle in to Tylle.
Tyle risethe in the hills of Chivet,k and so cummithe into Glindale unto a castle caullyd Chillingham Castle a vi. miles from the Chyvet hylls, so to Forde Castle an viii. miles of, to Ethell1 Castle on the bridge of stone downe on the est syde fo. 147. a mile, to Hetton™ Castle on the west syde of the Tylle a 3. miles and halfe of, so to Twislebridge" of stone one bow, but greate and stronge, where is a townlet and a towre a 2. miles of; so to Hornecleue a litle village on the east syde not halfe a mile of, and there in to Tweede. Hornecleue0 is halfe a myle above Norham.
a Team r. b Cong burn. ° Wansbeck r.
d Coquet r. e Wreigh r. f Breamish r., afterwards Till.
8 Glen r. h Bowmont Water. * Coupland.
k Cheviot. ! Etal. ra Heaton.
» Twizel. « Horncliffe.
PART IX 67
Twede risythe in Twydedale in Scotland at a towne (as I Northum- here say) cawllyd Pybbell,a and so comithe thrwghe the berland. forest of Eterik in Scotland, and so thorwghe Tynedale in Scotland, the people where of robbe sore and continually in Glyndale and Bamborowshire; and at a litle broke, cawlyd Ryden burne,* the whiche partithe England and Scotland by este and west, and comithe in to Twede, the greate streame of Twede towchithe on the Englyshe grownde as a limes be- twene Scotland and it. So to Carham a good mile of, a litle village, where is a cell of 2. chanons of Kyrkham5 in Yorkeshire. At this Carham is a litle towre of defence agayne the Scotts. So to Werkec Castle a mile of and more, a meatly stronge fortrese, to Cornehil a litle pile 2. miles of, agaynst the whiche on the farthar rype in Scotland is Cauld- streame d a place of nunes. So to Norham Castle where is also a meatly good toune about a 3. miles of. So to Berwike a vi. mils stondinge on the northe syde of Twede a litle. There by at the bridge on the sowthe syde of the watar is Twemowthe6 as a suburbe to the towne, and thens . . .
In Northumbarland, as I heare say, be no forests excepte Chivet hills, where is muche brushe wood, and some okke, grownd ovar growne with linge, and some with mosse. I have hard say that Chivet hilles stretchethe xx. miles. There is greate plenty of redd dere and roo bukkes.
The forest of Loughes is in Tindale on the west syde of Northe Tyne, even betwyxt the Tynnes armes.
Betwixt New Castle and Tyne Mouthe litle wood.
Bytwixte New Castle and Morpethe litle wood grownd.
Bytwyxt Morpethe and Alenewik good plenty of wood in certayne places and many parks; xii. miles betwixt New Castle and Morpethe, xii. longe miles betwene Morpethe and Alnwike, xx. to Berwike. So from New Castle to Berwike. Betwixt Alenwike and Berwike litle plenty of wood.
From New Castle to Hexham a xiiii. miles, and that way litle wood excepte at few places.
[* Redden village about two miles west of Carham, the burn falls into the Tweed not far from the present boundary line.]
Peebles. b Stow has Kynkham. ° Wark.
d Coldstream. e Tweedmouth.
68 LELAND'S ITINERARY
Northum- There they reken not Hexham in Tindale, but as a liberty berland. by jt selfe It is the market of Southe Tindale.
fo. 148. The libertye of Hexham stretchithe a x. miles southe west one way.
In Bamborowshire, parte of Northumbarland, is litle or no wood.
In Ridsedale no plenty of wood.
In Glindale here and there wood, and Chiveot servithe them well; but the great wood of Chiveot is spoylyd now, and crokyd old trees and schrubs remayne.
From Riddenborn a longe Twed to Barwike almoste no wood. They burne se cole that be dyggyd at Morton a litle village in Glyndal a 2. mile from Berwike.
Glindall" goethe a longe on Twede fro Rodenburn to Twede Mouth standinge in Glendale.
Haly Eylandshireb conteyneth all alonge the shore from Agorstonc to Beele,d and so alonge to Bamborow.
a Glendale. b Holy Island.
c Haggerston. d Beal.
PART X.*
IDEgnum Northumbrorum ab Humbroflu. antiquitus ad fo. 60 a.
fanum S.Joannis in Scotia.
Regnum Northumbrorum divisum in duas paries, id esf, in regnum Deirorum et regnum Berniciorum.
Regnum Deirorum ab Humbro ad Thesim Beverle olim dicebatur. 2. Deirewalde, id est, Silva Deirorum.
Nomina regum Deirorum.^
Ellafilius Yffi. Mol) qui et Ethelwoldus.
Ethelricus. Alcredus.
Ethelfridus. Ethelredus, qui et Ethebrigh-
Edwinus. tus dictus.
Osricus. Alwoldus.
Oswaldus. Osredus.
Oswius. Ethelbrightus.%
Ecfridus. Osbaldus.
Alfridus. Eardulphus.
Osredus. Osbricght et Ella eonjuncti.
Chenredus. Aldene et Eonils juncti.
Osricus. Ragnaldus.
Ceolwulphus. Sictricus.
Eadbertus. Guthefertus^ ult. regum.
Oswulphus.
[* Hearne's vol. vii, part 2. The original of Leland's MS. for this Part is lost. Hearne printed it from Stow's copy, Tanner MS. 464, vol. iii, fos. 60-81. The first two leaves are headed "comentaria Anglia 3," and evidently were separate from what follows in Stow's time, probably on loose leaves, Stow's fo. 6 1 v° being chiefly blank. The Itinerary proper begins on fo. 62.]
[t These lists of Northumbrian kings and earls appear to be taken from William of Malmesbury (Rolls series, index, vol. ii, cf. the kings as far as Alwold) and Simeon of Durham (Rolls ser. ).]
[t Should be Ethelred.]
[§ Guthred; confused with Cuthbert by the old copyist.]
69
LELAND'S ITINERARY
fo. 60 b.
Nomina regum Bernisiorum.
fo. 6 1 a. 788.
793-
875- 941.
1080. 1093.
1296.
Idafilius Eoppae. Adda. Clappa. Theodulphus.
Fradulphus,
phus.
Theodericus. Aethelricus. Ethelfridus.
alias Frecul-
Nomina comitum Northumbrian.
Osulphus comes; cut per Edgarum regem adjunc- tus* Oslacus.
Vualtheuus.
Wictredus.
Edulphus CudeL
Aldredus.
Edulphus,
Siwardus.
Tosti.
Morcharus, et postea Osul- phus adjunctus et.
Copsius, alias Cospius.
Robertus Comyn.
Cospatritius.
Vualtheuus.
Walcherus episcopus.
Albricus,
Robertus de Mulbreio: quo capto cessavit comitatus ad- ministrari a comitibus; et ex tune in manu regum, scil. Gul. Magni, Gulielmi Junioris, et Henrici man- sit^
Elfwaldus rex Northumbrorum occisus a Sigga patritio apud Scyltecestre juxta murum% anno Domini 788.
Lindisfarne, alias Haly Eland, depopulata a Danis anno Dom. 793.
Haldenus, unus ex principibus Danorum, totam North- umbriam sibi subjugavit anno Domini 875.
Anlaphus Damis incendit Tiningham anno Domini 941.
Robertus Curtoys, filiits Gulielmi Conquestoris^ condidit Castellum Novum super Tinam anno Domini 1080.
Malcolinus rex Scottorum occisus prope Aile fluvium a quodam Morello milite anno 1093.
Malcolinus rex sepultus in Monasterio de Tinemuthe.
Rex Joannes fodiendo apud Corbrige thesauros sedfrus- tra quaesivit.
Scotti prioratum Hagustaldensem cum tota villa incendio destruxerunt anno Domini 1296.
[* Admundus in MS.]
[t Manset in MS.] Muru in MS.]
PART X 71
Nomina episcoporum Hagustaldensis ecdesiae.*
Wilfridus.
Eata.
Tunbertus.
Joannes, qui et postea episeopus Ebor. post quern Wil- fridus iterum Hagustal. episeopus.
Acca.
Freohebertus.
Alchmundus.
Tilbertus.
Ethelbertus.
Heardredus.
Eanbertus.
Tidferdus, cujus^ Danis omnia late depopulantibus, ces- savit episcopatus Hagustaldensis.
Thomas archiepiscopus Eboracensis induxit canonicos re- gulares in ecclesiam% Hagustaldensem anno Dom. 1112. 1112. Henrici regis 13. Aschetillus primus Prior Hagustaldensis ecdesiae, Robertus Pisethe secundus.
Translatae fuerunt relliquiae Accae § ex coemiterio in fc>. 61 b. ecclesiam Hagustaldensem post ducentos || et quinquaginta annos per Alfredum presbyterum Dunelmensem.
RichardusMaconfuit rector parochialis ecdesiae deHexam ante inductos canonicos.
Cummynge to Henley I saw in the valley the priorie of Oxfordshire. Hurley, a celle to Westminster, standinge on the right ripe fo. 62 a. of the Thames.
The bridge at Henley is all of tymbre, as moste parte of the bridgs be ther about. It was of stone, as the foundation shewithe at a low watar.
The Hastings, now Erls of Huntendune, chefe lords of Henley. It was the Lorde Molines, then by decent Peverels, Hungerford, and so Hastyngs.
Plenty of wood and corne about Henley. The soyle chalky and hillinge.
[* Bishops of Hexham.]
[t Hearne suggests that instead of cujus either quo mortuo or nunc should be read.]
[t Ecclesia, MS.] [§ Aite in MS.]
[|| Ducenton in MS.]
Oxfordshire. Gray Domi- nus de Rother- filde, senes- challus Edward 3.
fo. 62 b.
Blesclles Leghe.
72 LELAND'S ITINERARY
Rotherfeld about a mile from Henley. There is a parke. It is of moste men caulled Rotherfelde Gray, by cawse that one of the Gray of Ruthyne came to be owner of [it].* Sum put this addition onto it, Gray Murdach, sayynge that this Murdach was a bysshope, and in comprobation of it there be dyverse myters sene in the haule in Rotherfeld.
There appere enteringe into the maner place on the righte hand 3. or 4. very olde towers of stone, a manifest token that it was sume tyme a castle. Ther is a very large courte buildyd about with tymbar and spacyd withe brike ; but this is of a latter worke. Men of Henley may yet remembar that it was the Lord Level's pocession. Sens by attainture it cam by gifte to Knolls.
Stonera is a 3. miles out of Henley. Ther is a fayre parke, and a waren of connes, and fayre woods. The mansion place standithe clyminge on an hille, and hathe 2. courtes buyldyd withe tymbar, brike and flynte. Syr Waltar Stonar now pocessor of it hathe augmentyd and strengthed the howse. The Stoners hathe longe had it in possessyon. Syns one Fortescue invadyd it by mariage of an heire generall of the Stoners, but aftar dispocessyd.
From Oxford to Hinkesey fery a quartar of a myle or more. Ther is a cawsey of stone fro Oseney to the ferie, and in this cawsey be dyvers bridges of plankes. For there the streme of Isis breketh into many armelets. The fery selfe is over the principale arme or streame of Isis.
Bleselles Legh b a litle village is a 3. mile from Hinkesey fery in the highe way from Oxford to Ferendune, alias Farington/ At this Legh be very fayre pastures and woods. The Blesells hathe bene lords of it syns the tyme of Edwarde the First or afore, and there they dyd enhabite. The place is all of stone, and stondithe at the west end of the paroche churche. Blesells were lords also of Rodecote d apon the ryver of Isis by Ferendune, wher hathe bene a stronge pile, and now a mansion place. The Blesells cam out of Province in Fraunce, and were men of activitye in
[* Hearne; not in MS.]
a Stonor Park. c Farringdon.
b Besils Leigh. d Radcot.
PART X 73
feates of armes, as it apperithe in monuments at Legh how Oxfordshire, hefawght in listes with a strange knight that chalengyd hym, at the whiche deade the Kynge and Quene at that tyme of England were present. The Blesells were countyd to have pocessyons of 400. marks by the yere. The last heire male of them was a-lyve in hominum memoria. Legh and Rodecote cam by mariage of an heire generall of the Blesells onto Fetiplace.
From Legh I rode halfe a myle and cam to Towkey,a where had ben a village. The churche or chapell yet remayneth, and ther by in a wood was a manor place now clene downe. It longethe now as a ferme to Magdalen Col- ledge in Oxford.
I rode thens a 2. myles and halfe thorowghe fayre cham- payne ground, frutefull of corne, to Newbridge on Isis. The ground ther al about lyethe in low medowes often ovar- flowne by rage of reyne. Ther is a longe cawsye of stone at eche end of the bridge. The bridge it selfe hathe vi. fo. 63 a. greate arches of stone. Thens I passyd by a fayre mylle a forow lengthe of, and ther semyd to cum downe a broke that joynithe with Isis about New Bridge.
Thens 4. myles or more to Whiteney,b where is a market and a fayre churche with a goodly piramis of stone.
Thens a myle to Crauley c Bridge of 2. arches of stone over Winruche d ryver that goithe by Whitney. Crauley vil- lage is hard by the bridge.
Thens about a myle to Mynsterc village havynge the name of Lovell somtyme lorde of it. There is an auncient place of the Lovels harde by the churche. Mastar Vinton of Wadeley by Farington hathe it of the Kynge in ferme.
Thens I rode a 3. myles or 4. thrwghe the forest of Wich- wood longinge to the Kynge, where is plentye of wood and fallow dere. This forest longed to the Bewchamps Erls of Warwike, and so dyd Burforde towne.
Then commynge out of the forest I enteryd into a soyle champayne on every syde, in the whiche, as in slypes, were some prety groves and woods.
a Tubney seems intended. b Witney.
c Crawley. d Windrush.
e Minster Lovell.
74 LELAND'S ITINERARY
Oxfordshire. Bekington a Maner Place at Bekington with a fayr mille. Bruerne watar renithe by it.
And thus passynge scant 2. mile, I cam to a place caulyd Borow" apon the top of a meane hill, where apperyd a greate ditche to the compace of a quartar of a myle, in the whiche dyd grow very good corne. First I toke it for a campe of men of warre. Aftar I marked in some placis of the toppe of the diche as there had bene a waull set on it. And I marked a place as where a gate had bene in to it toward the este. In dede it was nothinge but a campe of men of warre, and ther is a nothar on the same downes. So halfe a good myle to Cerceden c village.
Chirchehille village and lordshipe longginge to Mastar fo. 63 b. Barentyn is hard be Cerceden. Cerceden was first Golafer's maner, then, as I remembar, Browning's. Home of late made the faire howse there of sqwarid stone.*
Bruern Abbey a mile of, hard on the right ripe of the river.d Good pasture, corne, woodde.
Stow in the Wolde is about a 3. myles of from it.
Burford is a market a 3. myles from Bruerne. Bewchamps Erles of Warwyke were lords of it, and also of the forest of Wichewood. Some say that the Spencers and the Lovels had some dominion in it. Ther is notable quarye of fine stone about Burford.
There was a place in Burford caullyd the Priorie. Herman the Kyng's barbar hathe now the lands of it.
Langley is a myle from Burford. There remayne tokens of an olde maner place in the syde of the forest of Wiche- wood.
Fro Cerceden to Chepingnorton a 3. good myles. Croftes were the auncient lords of this Norton, syns Rodeney, and then Cometoun that bought it.
Hocnorton6 a 3. myles all by champaine fro Cheping- norton. There is a fayre parke and an old manar place. It longed to Chaucer; then to the Poles Duks of Southefolke by mariage. Now from Brandon to the Kynge by exchange.
[* As to Sarsden and these families see vol. ii, pp. 2-4.]
a ? Bledington and the Evenlode. b Knoll-bury.
c Sarsden. d Evenlode r. e Hook Norton.
PART X 75
Cold norton priory about a myle from Chepingnorton. Oxfordshire. This priory is now impropriate onto Brase-nose College in Oxford. Aboute a mile beyond the priory is Mastar Ascheles maner place.
To Tue a a 3. myles, where Mastar Reynesford dwellithe.
From Cerceden to Oxford a 15. miles.
From Oxford to Abbandune a 4. myles.* This towne Abandune. stondithe on the right rype of Isis in Barkeshire. The towne Berkshire, of very olde tyme was caullyd Seusham,b syns Abendune of one Aben a monke heremite that began a monasterye in those quartars, as they imagine right folishely. Tretwthe it is that one Eanus a noble Saxon began to builde a litle monasterye by the permissyon of Cissa his master, Kynge of the Saxons, at a place caullid Chisewelf a 2. myles from Abbingdon northe northeste in the foote way to Oxford. The place after not thought convenient, it was translatid on fo. 643. to Seusham, wher apon the new monasterye beynge buyldyd, it was caullyd Abbandune, i.e., Abbatis oppidum.
And not longe aftar thys tyme was the nunnery buildyd at Abbandune on the lifte ripe of Oche,° alias Coche, ryver, as at the mowthe of it into Isis the great streme. This place of nunnes was dedicate unto Saincte Helene, the name wher of yet remaynithe.
Bothe the abbay and the nunnery were destroyed by the Danes. Whithar the nunnery were reedified or no I can not tell. The abbay rose agayne, but it was a pore thinge ontill suche tyme as Kynge Edgare by the counsel of Ethel- wolde Byshope of Winchester dyd richely encrese it.
There was one Faritius a straunger and phisician made Abbate of Abbendune a certeyne tyme after the Conqweste.J
[* This account of Abingdon should be read with that in vol. i, pp. 1 20- 1 22. Leland seems to have found the book ' ' De Gestis Abbatum de Abbingdune " at the time of this visit, and to have made use of it. See the short history "De Abbatibus Abbendune," printed in Ap- pendix II to "Chronicon Monasterii de Abingdon," ed. Jos. Stevenson, vol. ii, Rolls Series, 1858.]
[t See vol. ii, p. 152, Chilswell, the scene of a notable battle in early times. ]
[J A.D. IIOI.]
Tew. » Or Seukesham. « Ock.
76
LELAND'S ITINERARY
Berkshire. He remevyd the olde churche that stode then more northerlye where now the orchard is, and made the este parte and transepte of a-new, only adorninge it [with *] diverse smaul marble pillers. Anon aftar cam an abbate, and seynge the howse not sufficiently served withe water, devised to turne the streme of Isis, and at the last brought it on to the very abbay syde, and partely thrwghe it. The chefe streme of Isis rane afore betwixt Andersey Isle and Culneham,a even where now the southe end is of Culneham.
Oxfordshire. The othar arme that brekethe oute of Isis aboute a quarter of a mile above Culneham, and then cummithe downe Culneham thoroughe Culneham bridge selfe, is now the lesse peace of the hole river. In greate flods and brakkes of water waulls Culneham Water goith partely to the old botom of Isis, and then ther be 3. stremes. There was of olde tyme a fortres or pile lyke a castle in Andersey by south west of Abbandune, sett as almoste in the mydle betwixte the olde and new botom of Isis. The ground that it stoode on is a medow agayne S. Helens of a qwartar of a myle ovar. Sum parte of this fortrese stode aftar the Conqwest, and there were kepte the Kyngs hauks and hownds.
Berkshire. There was an Abbate of Abbandune that perceyvyd welle how it had and shoulde noy the monasterie, and gave the Kinge Suttoun lordeshipe there by for it in exchaunge. It is a myle and halfe lower then Abbandune on the right ripe of Isis in Barkeshire.
There is now an olde barne where the castelet or fortresse
fo. 64 b. stoode. The place of the common people is yet caullid the
Castelle of the Rhae, a flu. praeterlabente. The weste parte
of the churche of Abbandune monasterie was reedified by
one William Asschendune, abbate there. S. Edward the
Martir's reliques for the moste parte were kept in Abbing-
don, where sum sayethe he was in his tendre age brought up.
Besilles. Ther were of the Blessells buried there.
All the lands almoste betwene Ainsham b and Dorcester
[* With not in MS.]
a Culham.
b Eynsham.
PART X 77
longed unto Abbandune. The rents of the abbay were Berkshire, almoste 2000. li. by the yere.
Abbingdoun monasterye upon a pie for fraunchese was spoyled by men of Abbandun, of Newbiry, and of Oxforde ; for the whiche great punishement was taken.
Ther was a parke at Radeley longinge onto Abbyndoun, which was disparkid by reason that the scollars of Oxford muche resortyd thethar to hunt.
The chefe paroche churche of Abbyngdon of old tyme was Saint Nicholas by thabbey. The abbat of Abendoun made the hospitall of S. John Baptiste agayne it. This hospitall hathe bene annexid to S. Nicolas. Ther be 12 men in this hospitall.
Seint Helens is now a paroche churche, and to it is the gretyst resorte of all the towne.
At suche tyme as the olde course of the streme of Isis was changyd there were found dyvers straunge thyngs., and amonge them a crosse with an inscription. The nunnrye stode in the very place where now the hospitall is at S. Helines.
Of auncient tyme there was no bridge to passe over Isis at Abbandune, but a ferie, and then was the way from Glocester to London not thorowgh Abbendune as it is now, and so to Dorchestar, but thorowg the notable towne of Wallingforde. Ther were dyvers mischauncis sene at this passage.
Ex tabula pensili.
Anno 4. Henrict 5, ponies de Bordforde et Culhamforde * prope Abbandune incepti sunt autore rege anno Dom. 1416.!
Dyvers persones drowned at the fery afore the bridge was Cultu/iam made. The inhabitaunts of Abbandune askid at the Courte Hiihefery. remedie for a bridge and obteyned.
[* See before, pp. i, 2.]
[t This date is in another hand than Stow's. At this point Hearne, who doubtless knew Abingdon well, appends a long and quaintly in- teresting note giving additional particulars of the building of Culham bridge, together with the full text of the Latin and English verses in- scribed on the Uible in the hospital, cited above by Leland, which still existed in 1712. The reader will find this note at length in the Ap- pendix to this Part.]
78 LELAND'S ITINERARY
Berkshire. Pans inchoatus die S. Albani.
°' Sa> Geffray Barbar of Abbandune gave monie chefly toward makynge the bridge and procurynge lands for the mayn- teynaunce of it. Ther wrowght that somer 300 men on the bridge.
Hactenus ex tabula.
Sum say at Abbandune that Geffray Barbar was as the greatest foundar of the hospitall of S. Helene. Sum say that one Joannes de S. Helena aboute that tyme had 2 dowghters, and for lakke of issue of them it shoulde go to mayntaynaunce of the hospitall and the bridgs. The land devolvid to that use.
A bridge of stone over the broke of Oche a by S. Helene's Hospitale.
A goodly pyramis is the Market Place.
There were, and yet appere, 2. camps of men of warre by Abbandune.
The one is Serpenhil a quartar of a mile by este northe est oute of the toune in a fote way to ... Here, as it is sayde there comonly, was a battayle betwyxt the Danes and the Saxons. Parte of the trenches of the campe be yet scene.
The other is caullid Barow a litle by weste oute of Ab- bandune toward Ferendune. Here be also the trenches yet apperinge.
Sum say that thabbate of Abbandune sente a bande of men to one of thes camps, where by the Danes were van- quishid, and lands were gyven to the abbay for the victory.
From Oxforde to Hanney a 8. mils, a 5. mils by hilly ground well wooddid and frutefull of corne, and other 3. mils by low levelle ground in sum partes marschy.
Or ever I cam at Hanney by a mile I passid over a broke, and other this was Ocke Broke that goithe to Abbandune, risinge in the vale of White Horse, or ells it rennithe in to Ocke. It ran from northe west in to the southe.
Thens a 2. myles by low wooddy ground unto Wanetinge,b that standithe on the right ripe of a praty broke that goithe
a Ock r. * Wantage.
PART X
79
downe to Abbandune, distante a 6. or 7. mils from Berkshire. Wantage.
Ther be 2. churches in this market toune in one chirche yarde, but the one is but a chapelle. The Lorde Fitzguarine is one of the chefiste lords of the towne, and of that name and lyne be 2. sepulchers in the paroche churche.
Thens a 6. myls to Chepinge Lanburne a a poore Friday market by hills well cornyd and some wodds; and passinge the better parte of the way I sawe a greate warren of conies longginge unto Mastar Estesex, who is lord of the towne by his mothar the sole dowghtar and heyre of Mastar Rogers, by whom he hathe bettar then 300. marks of lands by the yere.
Lamburne water risithe a litle by northe above the towne, fb. 65 b. levinge it on the righte ripe, and goinge thens a 10. myles to Dunington,b and a litle lower in to Kenet ryver.
From Lameburne on to Ramesbyry0 towne about a 5. Wiltshire, mills, firste by champayne grounde fruteful of corne, then by hills frutefull of woodd and corne. Kenet d towchithe the towne withe his lifte ripe suopinge in a low botom. There is a fayre and large olde churche in the towne. The Bysshope of Saresbyri hathe a faire old place halfe a mile upper apon the lifte ripe of Kenet, that a litle above the place in the medois makithe out an arme, and a litle benethe the place resortynge to the hed streme makithe the medois on the southe syde of the place a mediamnis or isle.
There is a right faire and large parke hangynge apon the clyffe of an highe hille welle woddyd over Kenet, hard on the southe syde of the place.
Litlecote the Darells chief house is a myle from Ramesbyri.
From Ramesbyri to Hungerford . . . myls.
From Ramesbyri to Saresbyri good 20. mils.
From Ramesbyri on to Great Bedwine a 3. miles, moste parte thrwghe the forest of Sauernake.
The towne is prevelegyd with a burges at the Parliament; yet is it but a poore thinge to syght. There liethe in the churche in the southe isle one Adam Stoke a famose man, and a nothar of that lyne by hym under a flatte stone. The
* Lambourne. b Donington. c Ramsbury. d Kennet.
8o LELAND'S ITINERARY
Wiltshire. Stokes were lords of Stoke Haule ther by, the lands of whom descendyd on to the Lords Hungarfords; but whereas I harde ons that there was a castelle at Create Bedwine, I could there heere nothinge of it. Litle Bedwine a myle lower, whither cummith the streame that passinge by Great Bedwine levith it on the right ripe. This watar goithe toward Kenet. And Hungerford is a 3. mils from Create Bedwine.
From Bedwine a good mile to Chauburnea village, the trew name whereof, as I gesse, shuld be Chaulkeburne. For it risithe and rennythe in chalky ground.
The howse of the Choks was firste greatly avaunsyd by
fo. 66 a. Choke chefe Juge of England,* that attayned lands to the
some of 600. marks by the yere, and kept his chefe howse
at Longe Ascheton by Bristow, havynge great furniture of
sylvar.
There risethe a litle above Chauburne village a broke that gyvethe name unto it, and levithe it on the right rype, and so goinge about a 2. miles lower resortithe to Bedwine watar, or els by it selfe goithe in to Kenet Ryver. Shau- burne is a 3. mils from Hungerforde.
From Ramesbiry onto Marlebyri a 3. miles by hilly grounde, frewtfull of corne and wood. Abowt halfe a myle or I cam onto Marlebyri I passyd ovar a broke that cam downe northeweste from the hills, and so ran by sowthe est into the streme of Kenet about halfe a myle bynethe Marlebyri.
The towne of Marlebyri standithe in lengthe from the toppe of an hille flate este to a valley lyenge flat west.
There is a ruine of a great castell harde at the west ende of the towne, where of the doungeon towre partely yet stondithe. There lay Kynge Edward the ... at a Parlia- ment tyme.
There is a chappell of S. Martyne at the este ende of the towne.
There is a paroche churche of owr Lady in the mydle of
[* Sir Richard Choke, Justice of Common Pleas, 1461.]
a Shalbourne.
PART X 8 1
the towne. The body of this churche is an auncient peace Wiltshire, of worke. Sum fable that it was a nunerye.
The chefe paroche churche of the towne standythe at the very weste end of it beynge dedicate onto Seint Peter.
There was a priorye of white chanons caullyd S. Mar- garet's a letle be southe the towne over Kenet,* where now dwellythe one Mastar Daniell.
Ther was a howse of Friers in the southe syde of the towne.
Kenet ryver cummethe doune by the weste end of the towne from the northe, and so by the botom of the towne and vale lyenge sowthe, levinge it on the lefte rype, and so renethe thens by flatte este.
Kenet risithe northe northe west at Selberi* Hille botom, where by hathe be camps and sepultures of men of warre, as at Aibyri b a myle of, and in dyvers placis of the playne. This Selbyri Hille is about a 5. miles from Marlbyri.
From Marlebyri over Kenet, and so into Sauernake (the fo. 66 b. swete Oke) forest, and a 4. myles or more to Peusey0 a good village, and there I passed ovar Avon ryver, and so by playne champine ground, frutfull of grasse and corne, especially good whete and barley, and so by a village caullyd Manifordes,d by the whiche Avon rennythe; and so to Newton c village 2. myles and more from Peusey, where also Avon rennythe levynge it on his lefte rype; and thens 2. myles of passyd by Uphavon/ a good village 2. myles lower. There comythe a litle broke into Avon from northe west at the est ende of Newton churche. The course of it is latly changyd to the great commoditie of the village lyinge lowe, and afore sore trowbled with water in wynter.
From Newton to Hilcote an hamlet of the same paroche halfe a myle.
The[n]f a 7. myles to the Vyes g by champayne ground. I The Vies. passyd or I cam nere the Vyes by a broke the whiche goythe in to Avon ryver by Uphavon vilage.
[* Kevet MS.] [t MS. has only The.}
ft Silbury. b Avebury or Abury. ° Pewsey.
d Manningford. c North Newnton. * Upavon.
e The Devizes. V. G
82
LELAND'S ITINERARY
Wiltshire. The towne of Vies standithe on a ground sumwhat clyv- inge, and most occupied by clothiars.
The beawty of it is all in one strete.
The market is very celebrate.
Ther is a castell on the southe west syde of the towne stately avauncyd apon an highe ground, defendyd partly by nature, and partly withe dykes the yere * where of is cast up a slope, and that of a greate height to defence of the waulle.
This castle was made in Henry the first dayes by one Rogar Bysshope of Salisbyrye,f Chaunselar and Treaswrar to the Kynge. Suche a pece of castle worke so costly and strongly was nevar afore nor sence set up by any bysshope of England. The kepe or dungeon of it set upon an hille cast by hand is a peace of worke of an incredible coste. There appere in the gate of it 6. or 7. placis for porte colacis, and muche goodly buyldyng was in it. It is now in ruine, and parte of the front of the towres of the gate of the kepe and the chapell in it were caried full unprofitably onto the buyldynge of Mastar Bainton's place at Bromehama scant 3. myles of.
fo. 67 a. There remayne dyvers goodly towres yet in the utter walle of the castle, but all goynge to ruine.
The principall gate that ledithe in to the towne is yet of a greate strengthe, and hathe placis for 7. or 8. porte colices.
Ther is a fayre parke by the castle.
The forest of Blakemore lyethe in a botom toward northe west, not far from the towne.
I saw as I went out of the towne Bromeham Haul lyenge in a botom about a 3. myles of.
Steple From the Vies to Steple Assheton a 6. myles by cham-
Ascheton. paine, but frutefull grownde and good wood plenty in some places. It is a praty litle market towne, and hathe praty buyldinge.
[* Id est, eare. — Hearne. That is, the earth thrown up by the digging.— L. T. S.]
[T Roger, bishop, 1107, died 1139.]
a Bromham. See vol. i, p. 133.
PART X 83
It standithe muche by clothiars. Wiltshire.
There is in it a very fayre churche, buyldyd in the mynd of men now lyvynge.
The spired steple of stone is very fayre and highe, and of that it is cawllyd Steple Asscheton. Robart Longe clothyar buyldyd the northe isle, Waltar Lucas clothiar buildyd the sowthe isle of theyr proper costes. The abbey of Rameseya in Hamptonshire had bothe parsonage impropriate, and the hole lordshipe.
Syr Thomas Semar hathe it now of the Kyngs almoste withe the hole hundred of Horwelle, alias Wharwelldoun,b with muche fayre woods.
From Steple Asscheton to Brooke Haule a bout a 2. myle Broke Place. by woody ground. There was of very auncient tyme an olde maner place wher Brooke Hall is now, and parte of it yet appearithe, but the new buyldynge that is there is of the erectynge of the Lorde Steward unto Kynge Henry the vii. The wyndowes be full of rudders, peradventure it was his badge or token of the Amiraltye. There is a fayre parke, but no great large thynge. In it be a great nombar of very fayre and fyne greynyd okes apte to sele howses.
Westbyri a smale market towne is a myle of, and of it the Westbyry hundred there berithe the name. Hundrid.
Wermisterc a principall market for corne is 4. myles from Brookehaull, a myle to Westbyry, and so 3. myles forthe.
The broke that renithe by Brooke is properly caulyd fo. 67 b. Bisse, and risethe at a place namyd Bismouth a 2. myles Bissus flu. above Brooke village, an hamlet longynge to Westbyry paroche. Thens it cummithe onto Brooke village; and so a myle lower onto Brooke Haule, levinge it hard on the right ripe, and about a 2. miles lower it goith to ...
Hedington" village and priorie a boute a 2. myles from Brooke Haul by ...
From Brooke Haulle onto Westbyri by low ground havinge wood, pasture and corne a mile and halfe. It is the hedd towne of the hundrede to whome it givethe name. In it is kept ones a weeke a smale market. Ther is a large churche. The towne stondithe moste by clothiers.
0 Romsey. b Whorwelsdown.
0 Warminster. d Edington.
84
LELAND'S ITINERARY
Somerset- Ther risythe 2. springs by Westbyri, one by sowthe, and
shire. an othar as by southe west, and sone metinge togethar go
abowte Bradley vilage a mile and halfe lower into Bisse
Broke that rennithe by Brooke Haule, and so to Troug-
bridge,8 and then into Avon.
Bradestoke or Bradeford the praty clothinge towne on Avon is a 2. myles of.
From Trowghbridge onto Bathe by very hilly grownd a 7. miles levinge the wodds and Farley parke and castle on the lyfte hand. And by the way I rode ovar Freshe fore b bridge of 2. or 3. faire new arches of stone, and this was a 3. miles from Throughbridge, and a 2. myles beyonde that in the very piche of the botom of a very stepe hill I passyd a wylde brocket rennynge on stones. Thens a myle of in the way was a notable quarey, and thens a playne, and then by a stepe botom onto Bathe about a myle.
From Bathe by champain to Kelston a good village in VVilshire a 3. milles, where Avon goithe somewhat a-lofe on the lifte hand in the botom.
From Kelston to Biton village in Glocestershire a 2. myles.
A litle above Bitton I passyd over a brooke that at hand semid to come from the northe and to go into Avon by southe.
Ther was a bridge of 3. arches of stone ovar this litle broke.
Thens to Hanham a bout 2. miles.
There be dyvers villages togethar caullyd Hanhams, but fo. 68 a. withe a difference. At this Hanham dwellythe one Ser John Newton in a fayre olde mannar place of stone ca'ullyd Barrescourte.0
Thyngs lernyd of Ser John Newton.
Newton's very propre name is Caradoc.d The name of
Newton cam by this error and use, by cawse the graund-
fathar of Ser John Newton dwellyd, or was borne, at Trene-
with in Poise Land.0
Somerset. Gurney was lord of Stoke Hamden, and there he lyethe
Gloucester- shire.
a Trowbridge.
d OrCradock.
b Freshford.
c Barr's Court. 6 Powis-land.
PART X 85
buryed in a Colegiate chapell by the ruyns of his castle. Somerset- He was chefe foundar, as some say, of the howse of Gaunts shire, at Bristow. He was foundar of the priorye of nunes