to
of
of Toronto
^rofessor John Satterly Department of ^hysics University of Toronto
IUIDE TO DARTMOOR
SOUTHERN AND WESTERN SECTION comprising :
PRINCETOWN, TWO BRIDGES,
Hexworthy & Post Bridge Districts,
ASHBURTON, BRENT, IVYBRIDGE
and Cornwood Districts,
AND
PLYMPTON, SH AUGH, YELVERTON
and Dousland Districts.
By W. CROSSING.
A. WHEATON & Co., Ltd.,
Booksellers and Stationers, 223 High Street, EXETER, and EXMOUTH,
FOREWORD.
Having purchased the remaining stock of Mr. Crossing's " GUIDE TO DARTMOOR," we have pleasure in offering the same to the lovers of Dartmoor in a more convenient form than previously issued, and it is hoped in the amended form it will prove much more practicable to the Rambler and the Tourist.
This volume comprises Parts 1, 4 and 5, which covers the Southern and Western sections of the Moor. The Northern and Eastern portions, containing Parts 2 and 3, can be obtained in a uniform, volume which describes Tavistock, Lydford, Okehampton, Sticklepath, Chagford, Moreton, Lustleigh, Bovey Tracey, Cranmere Pool and Antiquities of the Moor, which are not to be found in other Guides.
Visitors to the West will find our moorland country a source of interest and delight, and during their perambulations will no doubt be glad to become acquainted with other works relating to Glorious Devon. We therefore invite enquiries, which shall receive prompt and careful attention.
A. WHEATON & Co., LTD. 223 HIGH STREET, EXETER.
GUIDE TO DARTMOOR:
A Topographical Description of the Forest and Commons
WILLIAM CROSSING,
AUTHOR OF
''he Ancient Stone Crosses of Dartmoor and Its Borderland, Amid Devonia's Alps
Tales of the Dartmoor Pixies, Gems in a Granite Setting, A Hundred
Years on Dartmoor, Folk Rhymes of Devon,
From a Dartmoor Cot, &c.
WITH MAPS AND SKETCHES.
A NEW EDITION IN FIVE PARTS.
PART I.
Princetown, Two Bridges, Hexworthy, And
Post Bridge Districts.
"If you want sternness and loneliness you may pass into Dartmoor. There are wastes and wilds, crags of granite, views into far-off districts, and the sound of waters hurrying awav over their rocky beds, enough to satisfy the largest hungering and thirsting after poetical delight.'1
WILLIAM HOWITT: Knr.il Life <>( Kn^lmi.i
JEieter:
A. WHEATON & Co., Ltd., Booksellers and Stationers, 223 High Street.
OUT OF THE LAND OF GORSE AND HEATHER
TO
THE RIGHT WORSHIPFUL
THB MAYOR AND MAYORESS OF PLYMOUTH, A. EDMUND SPENDER, B.A.,
AND
HELEN FRANCES SPENDER, GREETING.
871797.
PREFACE TO THIRD EDITION.
THE favourable reception accorded to the former editions of this Guide has rendered a further issue necessary. In this some considerable alterations in the arrangement have been made. While a description of Dartmoor in one volume had much to recommend it, the plan was also not without its disadvantages. The ground covered being extensive it was impossible to produce such a book as the author considered the subject demanded without its becoming rather bulky, and this was inconvenient from the tourist's point of view. It is now divided into five parts, but there has been no abridgement of matter. The few alterations in the text are chiefly of the nature of additions which were needed in order to bring the book up to date.
The author is much gratified at knowing that the Guide has been found helpful by the tourist in the past, and ventures to believe that in its present form it will prove of still greater value in the future.
BI.ACK DOWN, DARTMOOR, April, 1914.
DARTMOOR GUIDE.
EXETER
POPLE'S
NEW LONDON HOTEL
(Visited by their Majesties The King and Queen, King Edward VII. and Queen Victoria.)
Officially appointed by the "Royal Automobile Club," and the "Automobile Association."
A charming i8th Century Hotel, with every modern comfort and luxury. Beautiful covered Courtyard as Lounge. Near the Cathedral and Railway Stations. Electric Light. Night Porter.
SPLENDID MOTOR GARAGE
Adjoining the Hotel, with Lock-up Private Boxes and Inspection Pits.
Telegrams: " Fople, Exeter.'
Telephone : 146, Exeter. R. POPLE, Proprietor.
Houses
Let
Sold
Built
Repaired
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Decorated.
For anything to do with Houses or Building Land in
Communicate with
The
&
X£V Howard,
Contractor
and House Agent
ROCKVALE, YELVERTON. 'Phone ia
PREFACE.
DURING recent years the claims of Dartmoor as a holiday and health resort have become widely recognized. Those to whom an old world region is an attraction will find in it a field of surpassing interest. No district in England of similiar extent is so rich in pre- historic remains, and in none does Nature wear a wilder aspect.
To this elevated tract of land no guide book, in the true sense of the term, has hitherto appeared. It has, of course, been noticed in county guides, and there are also topographical works and handbooks descriptive of it, but in the former the accounts are necessarily super- ficial, while in the latter the visitor is not given any directions for finding his way over those parts of the waste remote from roads. To enable him to learn what Dartmoor really is he needs something beyond notices of the more celebrated, because more readily accessible, places and objects of interest. He should be led from the beaten track, and wander among the hills where signs of man's occupancy are not, where silence broods over the sea of fen, and the pasture grounds of the cattle that range at will are as they were when the Norman herdsman drove his beasts there ; or he should stray into solitary combes encumbered with the ruined huts and fallen rock-pillars of the people who once made this wild land their home. As my acquaintance with Dartmoor is a life-long one, and as it has been with me a subject of study and of systematic investigation during many years, it is with some degree of confidence that I take upon myself the task of con- ducting the visitor over it, and leading him into its remoter parts.
This book is the first to give a complete topographical description of Dartmoor, and the reader may depend upon its being correct. Its aim is to furnish the visitor with an account of all that is to be found on the moor worthy of note, and to acquaint him with the best means of reaching the various objects from any point. The districts into which the moor has been divided are described in the excursions, and
viii. PREFACE.
at the end of these are given routes to each of the other districts. By this arrangement the moor is crossed in every conceivable direction, so that it is not possible to find any part of it that is not noticed some- where in the book. For the sake of convenience the terms used in connection with the forest and commons are given, with their mean- ings, in glossarial form, some archaeological terms being also included.
I desire to express my thanks to Mr. PHILIP GUY STEVENS, of Princetown, for the series of pen-and-ink sketches he has been at such pains to furnish, and which were executed on the spot. It is hoped they will be found useful as a means of helping the visitor to identify the principal tors and hills.
If I gain the confidence of the rambler who uses this book my satisfaction will be complete. There is some reason for me to hope that I shall do so, as I venture to believe that he will discover ere we have gone far on our wanderings together that I am really and truly a Dartmoor man.
CONTENTS. PART I.
PACK
'Situation and Extent of Dartmoor i
Hints to the Dartmoor Rambler 3
Road and Rail Distances to Princetown 10
Road Distances to Hexworthy 82
,, ,, Post Bridge 94
Important Points round Princetown 10
,, ,, Hexworthy 82
,, Post Bridge Q4
By Road and Rail to the Capital of the Moor 1 1
North Hisworthy Tor 16
Excursion i . From Princetown and Two Bridges 21
2 „ „ 30
3 „ „ 38
4 „ „ 43
3 „ „ 47
6 „ „ 57
Crockern Tor 63
Shorter Excursions from Princetown and Two Bridges, i to 14 . . 66
Princetown to Dartmeet, Route 5 72
,, Hexworthy, Route 5 73
„ Post Bridge, Route 4 72
(Return Routes, 42, 35 Part III).
Hexworthy Hamlet 82
Excursion 41. From Hexworthy 83
Gorge of the Dart 84
Excursion 42. From Hexworthy 88
43 ., „ 9i
Village of Post Bridge 94
Excursion 44. From Post Bridge 96
45 ,. „ 102
,, 46 ,, ,, 105
r. CONTENTS. PART I.
PAGE Route i . Princetown and Two Bridges to Tavistock . . . . 68
„ 2 „ „ Lydford 68
„ 3 ,, ,, Okehampton 70
,, 4 „ ,, Chagford 72
,, 5 ,, ,, Bovey Tracey 72
,, 6 ,. ,, Ashburton and Buckfastleigh .. 74
,, 7 ,, ,, Brent and Ivybridge 75
,,8 „ ,, Shaugh and Plympton . . . . 77
Routes to Cranmere from Princetown and Two Bridges . . . . 79
,, ,, Hexworthy and Post Bridge . . 93, 107
MAPS.
Sketch Map of the Moor . . . . . . . . facing page i
Surroundings of Cranmere . . . . . . . . ,, „ 80
ONE INCH MAPS.
I, 2. Princetown District .. .. .. facing pages 22, 48
The numbers of the Routes and Excursions as given in the first edition of the Guide are retained throughout. T. signifies Track ; Ex. or S. Ex., Excursion or Shorter Excursion ; R., Route ; and C. R., Cranmere Route. The entire length of each Excursion is given ; Route distances are given one way only.
zii. DARTMOOR GUIDE.
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The
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Telephone -r -tt i- r>
NO. 39. 1 anfr on application to r ropnetor.
GUIDE TO DARTMOOR.
IN FIVE PARTS.
Part I. PRINCETOWN, Two BRIDGES, HEXWORTHY, AND POST BRIDGE DISTRICTS.
Deals with the whole of the central part of the Moor, and contains notices of Crazy Well Pool, Siward's Cross, Childe's Tomb, the Merivale Antiquities, Mis Tor, Wistman's Wood, Dartmeet, etc.
Excursions i to 6 ; 41 to 46. Shorter Exs. i to 14. Routes i to 8. Cranmere Routes i, 2, 15, 16, 17.
Part II. TAVISTOCK, LYDFORD, OKEHAMPTON, AND STICKLEPATH DISTRICTS.
Describes Northern Dartmoor, extending from Sampford Spiney on the West to Throwleigh on the East : Notices Brent Tor, Lydford Gorge, Hill Bridge, Tavy Cleave, Fur Tor, the Island of Rocks, Yes Tor, the Belstone Range, Cosdon, etc.
Excursions 7 to 18. S. Exs. 15 to 47. Routes 9 to 30. C.R. 3 to ii.
Part III. CHAGFORD, MORETON, IAJSTLEIGH, AND BOVEY TRACEY DISTRICTS.
A Description of Eastern Dartmoor : This part contains a notice of Cranmere Pool, and among other places and objects included in the Excursions are the Scorhill and Kes Tor Antiquities, Teign Head, Fernworthy, Grim's Pound, Drewsteignton Dolmen, Fingle Bridge, Lustleigh Cleave, Hey Tor, etc.
Excursions 19 to 25. S. Exs. 48 to 87. Routes 31 to 46. C. R. 12, 13, 14.
ziv. DARTMOOR GUIDE.
Part IV. ASHBURTON, BRENT, IVYBRIDGE, AND CORNWOOD DISTRICTS.
The whole of Southern Dartmoor, so rich in antiquities and charming border scenery, is described in this part. Among other places noticed are Rippon Tor, Widecombe-in-the-Moor, the Buckland Woods, Holne Chase, Brent Moor, Shipley, the Valley of the Ernie, Stowford Cleave, Hawns and Dendles, etc.
Excursions 26 to 34. S. Exs. 88 to 121. Routes 47 to 66. Prom the southern part of the moor the starting points of the Cranmere Routes are Princetown, Two Bridges, and Post Bridge, C.R. i, 2, 16, 17. These are given in Part I.
Part V. PI.YMPTON, SHAUGH, YEI.VERTON, AND DOUSLAND DISTRICTS.
Describes Western Dartmoor from Cornwood to the Walkham : Shaugh Bridge, the Dewer Stone, the Plym Valley, Meavy, Sheeps Tor, and the Burrator Lake. This part also contains a brief description of the old pack-horse tracks on the Moor, to which reference is frequently made in the book, as well as a Dictionary of Terms used in connection with the Forest and Commons.
Excursions 35 to 40. Routes 67 to 76. For Cranmere Routes see Princetown, Two Bridges, and Post Bridge, C.R. i, 2, 1 6, 17, in Part I.
Each Part contains directions for reacliing Cranmere Pool from the Districts described in it.
Where reference is made to other of the Author's books the titles are thus abbreviated.
1 A Hundred Years on Dartmoor" .. .. ,. 100 Years.
'Gems in a Granite Setting " . . . . . . Gems.
' The Ancient Stone Crosses of Dartmoor and Its
Borderland" .. .. .. .. .. Crosses^
' Amid Devonia's Alps " .. .. .. .. Dev. Alps.,
' Tales of the Dartmoor Pixies" Pixies
SKETCH MAP
BOUND'ACIES OF DARTMOOR"**
GUIDE TO DARTMOOR.
Situation and Extent of Dartmoor.
DARTMOOR is situated in South Devonshire, and towards the Western part of the county. At its nearest approach to the Tamar at Plaster Down, it is about five or six miles from that river, but it is not so many years since that commons stretched from it almost to the Morwell Rocks, and even now the breaks of cultivated land between the two are not extensive. Wigford Down is part of Dartmoor, and this is separated from Roborough Down only by the farms in the narrow valley of the Mew, while adjoining the last-named common is Buckland Down, which extends to the Tavy where it flows under Blackmoorham Wood. From that point to the Tamar at New- quay the distance, measured in a straight line, is not much over a mile, or to the Morwell Rocks about two miles, and far into the nineteenth century much of this intervening tract, now cultivated and planted, was open common'. The eastern verge of Dartmoor is about sixteen miles from Bxeter, but there are outlying commons, once no doubt forming part of it, that approach much nearer to that city. The district in which these are situated, and the moor itself, constitute the granite area of Devon. The part of the moor nearest to Plymouth is Crownhill Down, in the parish of Plympton St. Mary, the gate of which, near Bottle Hill Mine, is only seven miles from it.
On the northern verge of Dartmoor is situated the town of Oke- hampton, the suburbs and the railway station being quite close to the commons. On the south is the large village of Ivybridge, which is rather over half-a-mile from the edge of the down below the Western Beacon. The distance between these two places, as shown on the recent Ordnance Map, is rather over twenty-three miles, the extreme length of the moor being a little less than this. Its breadth varies. At its widest part it is seventeen miles across ; this is from the edge of Black Down, near Brent Tor, to the border of Ilsington Common under Hey Tor, but its average breadth is about ten or twelve miles. It covers an area of about two hundred square miles, but this does not include the borderland, which is usually regarded as Dartmoor country, and in which are a number of outlying commons. Its highest hill attains an elevation of 2,039 feet, but its mean altitude is about 1,400 feet. [100 Years, Intro. ; Crosses, Chap. I.]
The principal market towns and holiday centres surrounding the moor are Okehampton, Belstone, Sticklepath, on the north ; Chagford, Moretonhampstead, L,ustleigh, and Bovey Tracey, on the east ; Ash- burton, Buckfastleigh, Brent, Ivybridge, and Plympton, on the south ; and Yelverton, Horrabridge, Tavistock, Mary Tavy, Brent Tor, I,ydford, and Bridestowe, on the west.
2 NATURAL DIVISIONS OF DARTMOOR.
Although the whole of the moorland region was in all probability once known as Dartmoor, or perhaps as the Dartmoors, the name has for several centuries been supposed to belong only to the ancient forest, which forms the central part of the great waste, and which is at some considerable distance from 'the towns and villages of the borderland. But for many years what seems to have been the earlier order of things has been reverted to, and the forest and the broad belt of commons surrounding this old-time royal hunting-ground, have together borne the name of Dartmoor, though many of the dwellers in the district do not recognize this general term. [100 Years, Chap. VII. I
Each of these border commons belongs to a different parish, the name of which it usually bears. They are of the same general character as the forest, except that some parts of the latter are much more desolate, the depth of the peat greater, and the surface more uneven. The boundary between the forest and these purlieus is marked, with a few exceptions, by natural objects, and there is nothing to show the stranger when he passes from one to the other. The bounds of the commons are viewed at certain times, and copies of perambulations and surveys exist showing the bounds of the forest, which lies wholly within the parish of L,ydford.
Dartmoor thus consists of an ancient forest and its purlieus, but jt is also naturally divided into five districts.
I. The great central depression extending from near Prince- town to the West Webburn, below Hameldon, and comprising the lands of the early forest settlers lying near the East Dart, the West Dart, and the Walla Brook.
This is noticed in the Excursions from Princetown, Post Bridge, and Hexworthy.
II. That part of the moor to the north of this depression, and extending to Okehampton, but not including the Tavy Valley below the Cleave.
Noticed in the Excursions from Princetown, Tavis- tock, I/ydford, Okehampton, Belstone, and Chagford, and in the routes to Cranmere.
III. That part of the moor to the south of the . depression, and extending to Ivybridge.
Noticed in the Excursions from Princetown, Hex- worthy, Brent, Ivybridge, Plympton, and Yelverton, IV. The Tavy Valley below the Cleave.
Described in the Excursions from Tavistock and I/ydford.
V. Hameldon, the Widecombe Valley, and the commons to the east of it.
This district, which extends from Manaton and L,ust- leigh to Ashburton, is described in the Excursions from Moreton, Bovey Tracey, and Ashburton.
All these districts are also crossed by the different routes.
BOGS THE FEN. PEAT
Hints to the Dartmoor Rambler.
THE explorer of the moor who is a stranger to the locality, will naturally desire to know something of the nature of the ground he will have to traverse in his rambles, and it may, therefore, be well to offer a few remarks on this and one or two other kindred subjects. He will probably have read of the dangers of Dartmoor, and may have formed the idea that it is a land of mists and bog. It certainly cannot be denied that the moor is often enveloped in a mist in the winter, but such will not be found to be frequently the case during the season usually chosen by the visitor to make acquaintance with it. And it must also be confessed that bogs are by no means rare. But to be overtaken by the former, though sometimes proving rather awkward, is never dangerous, while the latter are only so to the rider to hounds who may be a stranger to the district. The cautious pedes- trian will come to no harm, unless he should be benighted, and in the darkness walk into a swamp, or plunge into what is known as a " feather bed." But even at such a time these may generally be avoided, while by day there is, of course, no difficulty whatever in doing so.
My own experience is that the worst obstacles on Dartmoor are not such as Nature has placed there, but those that owe their existence to man. It is usually much easier to pass over the worst parts of the fen than to make headway across a tract covered with old turf-ties. Such a hillside, for instance, as that down which Outer Redlake runs to fall into the Tavy, where peat has been cut for generations, presents greater difficulties to the pedestrian than the boggy ground near by, which the peat-cutters have left untouched. The bogs are not a source of danger to the rambler who will exercise judgment and proceed with care. '
The fen, or " vain," as the moormen calls it, and which covers so much of the more remote parts of the forest, consists entirely of peat, •on which bog-grasses grow, in certain spots to a great height. There is no top-soil, and consequently no herbage suitable for cattle. Often this ground will be found seamed in every direction, the rains having worn channels in the peaty surface, and these gradually widening and deepening, the whole tract is broken up into innumerable hum- mocks. The fissures are frequently so wide that it is impossible to leap across them, and progress can then only be made by descending into them and wading to the next hummock. In a dry season one may indeed pass through the fissures, for although the peat is soft he will not sink very far into it. I have many a time walked for a considerable distance through these channels, my head being occasionally two or three feet below the surface of the ground. When they are found of .such a depth the gravel is often exposed, the whole of the peat having
4 HINTS TO THE RAMBLER.
been washed away. Northward of Cut Hill there is an extensive tract of ground of this character.
Sometimes a considerable area will be met with where the hum- mocks are very few, and dotted about the bare peat like small islands in a sea of mud. In these cases they are invariably low.
When the season is wet the peat is very soft and yielding, and it would then be exceedingly unwise to attempt to cross the worst parts of the fen, for though the adventurous explorer would hardly be in danger of sinking so far into it as the man who, according to the story, was discovered by his hat, which, while on his head, yet appeared to- rest upon the surface, he would certainly be what is locally termed " stugged."
Very little ground of this nature is to be found on the commons surrounding the forest, for there the peat is usually not deep, and is covered with turf. It is only when the central and higher parts of the moor are reached that the true fen, or bog, is seen. Of this two tracts exist ; one, which is very extensive, in the north quarter of the forest, and the other in the south quarter. In the latter there are,, however, no deep channels in the peat similar to those just described. The surface of the other parts of the forest resembles that of its purlieus.
A mire is of a totally different character from the fen ; it is really a swamp, and is usually found at the heads of streams. Should the rambler inadvertently walk into one, he must at once retrace his steps, and on no account seek to go forward. Tussocks of rushes often grow on the edges of the mires, and these will afford a secure, foothold. Where such are plentiful a mire may even be crossed by means of them, though it is not advisable for those unaccustomed to the moor to- attempt it. To these mires the name of Dartmoor Stables has been given, but it is not often heard now. This was in playful allusion to the belief that ponies often found a " resting place " in them, one, however, we can well believe, they would not have been loth to quit could they have done so. I have certainly known instances of these animals, and of cattle and sheep, being lost in the mires, but speaking generally such accidents are by no means of frequent occurrence. In the northern part of the moor, among other places, there are mires at Dart Head, at Broad Marsh, on the Walla Brook, and at Raybarrow Pool ; and in the southern at Aune Head, and in the vallev below Fox: Tor.
The weary wanderer on Dartmoor is probably not sorry when he is able to seek his couch, but however tired he may be he would hardly care to avail himself of the kind of " feather-bed ;> he will sometimes meet with there, notwithstanding its inviting look. What is known as such is a deep hole, usually not more than ten or twelve feet in diameter, rilled with ooze, hidden beneath a covering of moss of a beautiful bright green colour. Should this matted surface, or raim (that is, ream) as the moorman calls it, be broken by anyone unwittingly crossing it, there would be nothing to prevent him from plunging into the slush. No one would set foot on such spots intentionally, for in spite of their attractive appearance their real nature betrays itself on a very slight examination, and it is therefore only by night that the " feather-bed " is likely to have an occupant. I have walked across them in the darkness, but never came to any harm. Animals, with an apparent perception of the fitness of things, shun the " feather-bed."
MISTS ON THE MOOR. 5
Quaker is another not inappropriate name for these. It is derived from their tremulous motion when trodden upon.
Mists sometimes suddenly envelop the moor in an impenetrable shroud. I have known my surroundings to be entirely obscured, and objects twenty or thirty yards distant rendered invisible, where ten minutes before there was not a sign of what was coming, and the mist has continued for several days. If a stranger be overtaken by one, he should, when not certain ot his bearings, endeavour to find a stream, and having done so, follow it till he reaches the borders of the moor, or some road. Attempts to strike a straight course over the moor will assuredly fail ; he will only wander in a circle. It is obvious that the stream may lead him away from the point he is desirous of reaching, but it will, nevertheless, act as a guide to the enclosed country, which to those unacquainted with the locality is in such circumstances " a consummation devoutedly to be wished." When the mist comes on the rambler should take particular care to keep descending ; immediately he finds an ascent before him he must turn, and unless he should be unfortunate enough to be pixy-led, it cannot be long before running water will be reached. Should it be suspected that the little elves of the moor are playing pranks, let him take off his outer garment, turn it inside out, and put it on again. The pixies will then have no further power over him. This is a potent charm that has never yet been known to fail. [Pixies, Chap. I.]
But this plan of following a stream, though effective enough in enabling the rambler to reach the borders of the moor, leaves much to be desired. It is far better to be able to go in the direction he wishes, and this he may, of course, do if he has taken the precaution to provide himself with a pocket compass. I would strongly advise all who are unacquainted with the moor to carry one when they penetrate into those parts of it that are far removed from the beaten tracks. In describing the various routes in the pages that follow I have pre- sumed that the rambler is so provided. With this, and the maps and directions here furnished, he may mark out his course, and the mist will prove but little hindrance to his progress. At the same time, if his knowledge of Dartmoor is slight, it will not be unwise for him to make his way to a stream, provided there is one near him running towards his destination. But in all such cases his judgment must be his guide.
It is also possible to steer by the wind. I have done this on many occasions, and do not remember that I have ever gone wrong, though such a plan is not altogether satisfactory, for there is always the con- tingency of the wind changing. But many years of Dartmoor ram- bling have made me so familiar with every part of the district, that I never think about steering for any particular point ; even in the most dense mist the nature of the ground passed over is usually sufficient to assure me of my situation. Nevertheless, I have invariably carried a compass. Then when the moor has hidden itself, and my way has lain, as it were, through cloudland, I have been able, by consulting it occasionally, to satisfy myself that I was not straying from the course. It must not be forgotten that objects appear so distorted in a Dartmoor mist that the most familiar scenes when come upon suddenly are hardly recognizable. [Dev. Alps., Chap. VIII.]
6 HINTS TO THE RAMBLER.
To cross the moor on a dark night is a much more difficult matter than to make one's way over it through the mist. The latter, it is true, is sometimes confusing, and one is apt to be led astray by the strange appearance worn by those objects, which from their nearness, happen to be visible, but it is at all events possible to see the ground around one. In the darkness, however, every inequality — and these are not usually slight on Dartmoor — becomes a stumbling block. When you have mist and darkness combined, and it is raining in addition, you may justly consider that you are being treated to about the worst that Dartmoor has to offer. But this is an experience that the ordinary rambler on the moor is not likely to meet with, since he will probably prefer to visit it in the summer and confine his wanderings to the day-time.
There is one matter to which attention has been called by the late Rev. E. Spencer, of Tavistock, that it may be well to mention, though as it is so seldom known to occur, it can scarcely be regarded as a danger. Should by any chance the peat become ignited by the heather being set on fire, it might possibly continue to smoulder for some time, that is, if the weather be very dry. As it gives out carbonic acid it would, of course, be dangerous for anyone to pass near such a spot, unless he kept to the windward side of it. This, however, could never arise from any action of a Dartmoor man, for swaling, as the practice of burning the heather and furze is termed, is confined to the spring, at which season the peat is never sufficiently dry to ignite. Only after a period of exceptionally dry and hot summer weather could such a thing be possible.
During recent years Scotch cattle have been introduced on Dart- moor, and their wild, and sometimes rather fierce appearance, has caused some to dread encountering them. I do not think there is any real ground for alarm. The general opinion among the moor folk seems to be that these animals are no more dangerous than our own Devon cattle ; that if they are not worried they will take no notice of the passer-by. The rambler becomes the centre of attraction to all cattle that he approaches on the moor, which is not to be wondered at when it is remembered that they see so few people. They will generally stop grazing, and watch him till he has gone by, and then quietly go on feeding as before. If he has a dog with him he should keep it under control, and not allow it to disturb the animals. Speaking generally,, it is just as well to avoid passing too near to cattle on the moor, particularly during hot weather, when they are teased by the flies.
Among my Dartmoor experiences I can number most of the things that may happen to a man there, and I can recollect one or two adventures with Scotch cattle. About the year 1882, when cross- ing a part of Ugborough Moor in company with my wife, a whole herd came down upon us. The first intimation we had of it was the thundering of hoofs upon the turf, and then we were suddenly aware that a large number of black Scotch bullocks were rushing down the slope in pursuit of my dog, which was coming straight towards us. Fortunately, we were at no great distance from the wall of Glascombe Newtake, and seizing my wife's hand, I ran towards it with all speed. When we got to it I almost threw her on the top of the wall, which I knew was banked with turf on the inner side, and then pitching my dog after her, clambered over myself, just as the cattle came up. But
SCOTCH CATTLE. 7
they were not so infuriated as I had imagined ; in fact, no longer seeing the dog, they looked at us with an indifferent air. This I was able to return, though had they been so near to us two minutes previously my face would probably have worn another expression.
About 1901 I was going over the moor from Okehampton to Chagford, and when descending from Little Hound Tor towards Ruelake Pit, I saw some way hi advance a herd of Scotch cattle crossing my path. They were going at a rapid pace, being evidently much tormented by flies. I halted for a few minutes to allow them to go on their way, and leave mine clear for me. When the main herd had passed I resumed my walk, not caring to wait until the stragglers, of which there were several, had gone by. I had just crossed their track when one of the latter, detaching himself from two or three companions, came in a very threatening manner towards me. I did not wait for him, but continued on my way at a quicker pace than before. I deemed it possible that he might attribute to my influence some of the pain the flies were inflicting upon him, and had no wish to meet him. But casting a look backwards I saw that he also had increased his pace, and was whisking his tail in a very excited manner. Not far off was a mire from which a little feeder of the Walla Brook drains, and this I lost no time in gaining, for I saw it would prove a haven of safety. Planting my feet upon the tussocks of rushes I made my way out upon it, knowing that the animal could not follow me. And he knew it, too, for he did not attempt to do so. But he was nevertheless quite aware that a means existed of crossing the mire, for he set off, without even so much as bestowing a look upon me, for a ford lower down. At first I thought that he intended to come up on the other side ; but he did not, choosing instead to mount the hill towards Wild Tor. My last view of him showed me only the part corresponding to that which Washington Irving' s Stranger concealed beneath a broad disc of corduroy.
Readers of Eden Phillpotts' story The River will remember that it was a Scotch beast that attacked Nicholas Edgecombe in the lonely region round Devil's Tor, but though there is nothing improbable in the incident, they need be under little apprehension of meeting with a similar experience to the warrener. The animal in question was a bull, and had he been of Devonshire breed instead of Scotch, would have rushed upon Edgecombe all the same, as I can testify, having once had to run at topmost speed across Brown Heath, near the Erme, to escape from one of them. But the rambler's chief safeguard against such an occurrence lies in the fact that bulls are not now allowed to be placed on the moor.
To these few inconveniences — I will not call them dangers — I will add that of losing one's way in a solitary part of the moor. It is fortunately one that can easily be avoided. If the reader will allow me to become his guide I promise him that he shall not stray from his path. If he follows my instructions he will learn enough about the district to enable him to reach all the important objects in it with ease and safety.
All that the visitor needs to take with him on his rambles over the moor is a stout stick, a sandwich case, and — as before named — a pocket compass. If when he reaches his destination at night his boots are wet, let him fill them with oats. These, which are usually procurable at
8 HINTS TO THE RAMBLER.
the farm-houses, answer the purpose of boot-trees. The grain absorbs the moisture and swells, and when shaken out in the morning the boots will be found to have preserved their shape. L,et him, however, be sure that he shakes out every grain. Should he neglect to do so it will probably not be long before he finds himself able to form a very correct idea of the feelings of the man who omitted to take the pre- caution to boil his peas. But having exercised proper care he may set out over the moor again ; and if he is fond of a long tramp, he may go from one end of it to the other. I have left Okehampton in the morning, passed over Yes Tor and Willes, also Cranmere, and lunched at East Dart Head ; made my way to Fox Tor, thence by Black Lane and Green Hill to Western Whitaburrow, and so down to Shipley, reaching Brent in the evening.
When we consider how much Dartmoor has to offer, what scenes of wild grandeur meet the eye of those who penetrate into it, and what interest attaches to its memorials of other days, the few inconveniences inseparable from a long ramble in a hilly region that gives birth to many rivers are as nothing. They have been magnified into dangers by those whose knowledge of the moor is slight ; when one becomes familiar with it they take their proper place, and are unheeded.
I would particularly request the visitor's attention to one point. Never omit to fasten a gate after passing through it. Much trouble is often caused to the farmers when these are left open. Cattle may stray from the field or newtake, or other cattle turned loose on the forest may enter, and much inconvenience ensue. The Dartmoor farmer will always willingly allow strangers to pass through his ground, and it is surely a small thing to ask in return that they should not forget to shut his gates.
The latest Ordnance Survey maps, and maps that have been made from them, are the only ones that are reliable. Those published previous to about 1884 are of very little use, being full of inaccuracies.
At the time Dartmoor was being surveyed a list of the place- names from the old map was sent to me for revision ; I also added fresh ones, and supplied other information. There are a large number of objects on the moor the names of which, often purely local, are not generally known, and these are, of course, not given on the Ordnance map ; but all the more important ones are there shown.
In calculating distances on Dartmoor I have found it a safe plan to add one fourth to those shown on the map. What the moorman calls the " ups and downs, and ins and outs " may not make a journey across the moor quite so much as a fourth longer than the crow's would be, supposing that bird to be in the habit of indulging in straight and extended flights ; but the rambler will nevertheless not be far wrong if he regards a tramp of eight miles as measured on the map as being nearer one of ten.
The excursions in this Guide have been so planned as to embrace everything worthy of notice on the moor within about three or four miles of the centre of each district into which it has been divided ; objects outside that radius are described in the routes. These are given from each district to all the others, with the exception of Yelverton, Hexworthy, and Post Bridge. In these cases they were not required, those from Princetown or Shaugh, serving for the first- named, while the latter two are crossed by routes between other places.
THE MOORLAND ROUTES. 9
The visitor can begin his moorland rambles at any point. He should first read the paragraphs giving the important landmarks around the district from which he starts, as by so doing he will learn what there is in his locality that he should see. It is also advisable before setting out across the moor to read the route and its reverse, as the objects met with on it will be found to be noticed in the latter should that have been first described. This is also necessary as in many cases an alternate route is given. All places and objects of importance mentioned in the routes, but not described, will be found more fully noticed in one or other of the excursions, these being always indicated. The compass bearings are sufficiently accurate for the purpose for which they are intended ; they have, of course, not been reduced to points.
At the head of each district a table of road distances is given. If the name of a required place should not be found in a particular table, it must be looked for in the district in which the place is situated, and the distance can then be calculated. Thus, if it should be desired to find the distance between Lydford and Sticklepath, the Okehampton district, which is between the two, should be consulted. This will give the distance to both places.
By studying the routes, with the aid of the map, the visitor will find that he can connect one with another, and plan rambles for himself. Thus, the route from Princetown to Lydford is given direct. But should he desire, for instance, to visit Great Kneeset (which is altogether out of his way) en route, he may readily do so by following the Princetown and Okehampton route as far as that hill, and return to Lydford by the route to that place from Chagford, or from Cranmere. He can, in fact, by means of this Guide, reach any part of the moor from whatever point upon it he may happen to be.
io ROAD AND RAIL DISTANCES TO PRINCETOWN.
PRINCETOWN AND TWO BRIDGES DISTRICT.
DISTANCES. BY ROAD. ASHBURTON, via Dartmeet, P.T. 14! m., T.B. 13; via Hexworthy, P.T. 16, T.B. 14*. BOVEY TRACEY, via Dartmeet, Widecombe, and Hemsworthy Gate, P.T. 19, T.B. \ft. BUCKFASTLEIGH, via Hexworthy, P.T. 15$, T.B. 14. CHAGFORD, P.T. 12, T.B. loj. CORN WOOD, via Dousland and Cadaford Bridge, P.T. I2f, T.B. 14 J. DARTMEET, P.T. 6|, T.B. 5. DOUSLAND, P.T. 4^, T.B. 6. EXETER, via Moreton, P.T. 25-*-, T.B. 24. HEXWORTHY, P.T. 6f , T.B. 5 J. HOLNE, via Hexworthy P.T. n|, T.B. io. IVYBRIDGE, via Dousland, Cadaford Bridge and Cornwood, P.T. isf, T.B. i;£. LYDFORD, via Moor Shop, Harford Bridge, and Skit, P.T. 13$, T.B. 14. MERIVALE, P.T. 3$, T.B. 3f. MORETON, P.T. 13*, T.B. 12. OKEHAMPTON, via Moor Shop and Harford Bridge, P.T. 2i|, T.B. 22. PLYMOUTH, via Roborough, P.T. 14^, T.B. i6£. P'LYMPTON, via Dousland, Cadaford Bridge, and Niel Gate, P.T. 14, T.B. 15^. POST BRIDGE, P.T.s, T.B. 3|. POUND'S GATE, via Dartmeet, P.T. pf, T.B .8£. RUNDLE STONE, P.T. 1$, T.B. 2. SHAUGH, via Dousland and Cadaford Bridge, P.T. 9^, T.B. n. SHEEPSTOR, via Lowery Cross and Burrator Dam, P.T. sJ, T.B. ^\. SOUTH BRENT, via Hex- worthy and Buckfastleigh, P.T. 20^, T.B. 19 ; via Dousland, Cadaford Bridge, Cornwood and Ivybridge, P.T. 21, T.B. 22^. TAVISTOCK. P.T. 7|, T.B. 8. WARREN HOUSE INN, P.T. ;£, T.B. sf. WIDECOMBE, via Dartmeet and Ponsworthy, P.T. ii|, T.B. io ; via Post Bridge and Grendon Cot, P.T. 13, T.B. n\. YELVERTON STATION, P.T. 6, T.B. ;|.
BY RAII, (FROM PRINCETOWN). EXETER, via Plymouth (G.W.) 74 m. ; via Tavistock (G.W. to Tavistock, thence by L.S.W.) 58. PLYMOUTH (G.W.) 2i|. TAVISTOCK (G.W.) 16. YELVER- TON (G.W.) io|.
Important Points and Landmarks,
Important Points. Bear Down Man — Bellaford Tor — Dartmeet — Merivale Bridge — Mis Tor — North Hisworthy Tor — Nosworthy Bridge — Plym Steps — Rundle Stone — Siward's, or Nun's Cross. Other Places of Interest. Childe's Tomb — Cowsic Valley, under Bear Down — Crazy Well Pool — Crockern Tor — Dean Combe — Dunnabridge Pound — Fitz's Well— Prince Hall—Tor Royal— Valley of the Walkham— Wistman's Wood. Prehistoric Antiquities. Conies' Down: hut circles and stone row — Crock of Gold, and other kistvaens in Tor Royal Newtake — Down Tor : row, menhir, and circle, on Kingston Hill — East Tor Bottom : hut circles — Hart Tor : hut circles and stone row, and remains on Raddick Hill — Roundy Farm : hut circles — Lower
DARTMOOR SETTLEMENTS. n
Watern Newtake : kists and cairns — Merivale : rows, huts, and menhir on Long Ash Hill — Thrushel Combe (on the Plym) : rows, cairns, and menhirs. Mining Remains. Hart Tor : blowing houses and stream works — Dean Combe Head : tinners' excavations — Newleycombe Lake : extensive stream workings — Plym : workings near Eyles- barrow — Riddipit : mould stones — Walkham : blowing houses above Merivale Bridge.
By Road and Rail to the Capital of the Moor.
Within the confines of Dartmoor there are several small settle- ments, two of which, Post Bridge and Hexworthy, have grown up around some of the ancient tenements. Foggin Tor owes its origin, and Merivale its expansion, to the granite quarrying industry, while White Works was called into being by mining enterprise, which has also helped to promote the growth of the two first-named. There are a few others consisting of groups of farmhouses, and there is also the old village of Widecombe. Cultivation has so spread itself throughout the valley in which this settlement is placed, that pastures and wood- lands now link it with the in-country, and it appears less deserving of its adjunct than in the days when it was known as Widecombe-in-the- Moor. Still, although it is possible to approach it without actually entering on the commons, it belongs as much to Dartmoor as ever it did. The parish is conterminous with the forest for a distance of nearly four miles, and there has always been a connection between them. A larger settlement than any of those named is that of Lee Moor, in the parish of Shaugh, the seat of an extensive china clay industry, and a larger and more important still is Princetown, which is justly regarded as the capital of the moor. Time was when Lydford held that distinction. There the mother church was situated, and there was the castle in which the forest courts were held, and in later days the Duchy courts. But when Princetown sprang into being these were removed to it, and a church being built, journeys to Lydford or to Widecombe became less frequent. Interest centered round the new town, which speedily became the largest settlement on the moor.
In the section dealing with the tracks we have stated that the roads on the moor were formed on the lines of ancient ways (T. 44) One ran from Tavistock to Moreton and Chagford, and from this there were branches to Ashburton and Widecombe, and it was also joined by one from Plymouth. The latter is now the present Plymouth and Princetowu road. It enters on Roborough Down at the sixth milestone from the first-named town, and leaves it just beyond the ninth. All the way across this fine open common there is a good view of the Western frontier of Dartmoor, the grouping of the tors above the Walkham Valley, and Sheeps Tor, above the valley of the Mew, being particularly noticeable. Yelverton is delightfully placed between the eighth and ninth milestone, the residences being situated on the verge of the down. One mile beyond it is Dousland, where the road is crossed by another running from Plympton and Ivybridge to Tavistock. About a mile
12 PRINCETOWN AND TWO BRIDGES DISTRICT.
from Dousland the road passes under the Princetown Railway, and shortly after enters Dartmoor. It climbs the shoulder of Peak Hill, a grand prospect opening towards the west as the higher ground is reached. For the next 3-^ miles it runs over Walkhampton Common, passing near to Leedon Tor, which rises on the I,., and Black Tor, which is seen on the R., with Hart Tor just across the shallow valley below it. Crossing Devil's Bridge the road climbs the steep ascent from the hollow, and soon after reaches the limits of the common in this direction and enters the forest. A granite post on the right of the way serves as a bondmark of the latter. Princetown is only a little way beyond, being situated just within the forest bounds.
The Tavistock road leaves the town by way of Vigo Bridge, or by the Abbey Bridge and Dolvin road, and passing the entrance to Mount Tavy, runs on to Moor Shop, where it is crossed by a road from Horrabridge to Harford Bridge and Peter Tavy. Here the avscent of Pork Hill commences, the commons being entered before the top of it is reached, and at about 2f- miles from Tavistock. The road now runs across the common belonging to the parish of Whitchurch, with Cocks Tor and the Staple Tors to the L., and Vixen Tor R. The Walkham is crossed at Merivale Bridge, 4^ miles, and Walkhampton Common is entered. Here a long ascent to the Rundle Stone commences, the dominant object in the view being Great Mis Tor, which rises grandly above the river valley to the L. At Rundle Stone, 6 miles, the road enters the forest, and turning R. runs past the prison to Princetown. The church is 7 miles from Tavistock.
The Moretonhampstead road crosses the Bovey river a little over two miles from the town, and then ascends Worm Hill, after passing over which it reaches Beetor Cross, 3 miles. Here it is crossed by the Ashburton and Chagford road. Exactly a mile further on is Moor Gate, where the commons are entered. Its former presence is indicated by the name only, for no gate is now to be seen there. A little further on a branch of the Bovey is crossed, and at the top of the hill beyond it the road is joined by one coming from Chagford, and which enters the moor about three quarters of a mile from the junction. For the next mile or more the road runs over a fairly level piece of common, and enters the forest shortly belore the Warren House Inn is reached. Further on it crosses Stats Brook, passes over Meripit Hill, and descends to Post Bridge, where the East Dart is crossed, 8| miles from Moreton. From the river the road runs up between Archerton R., and Lakehead Hill L., and after crossing the Cherry Brook, passes in succession the Powder Mills Cottages, Cherry Brook Farm, and Crockern Tor, and descends to Two Bridges. Here the Princetown road branches I/., the one to the R. leading to Tavistock.
The road from Ashburton to Two Bridges runs by way of North Street to Holne Bridge, which is two miles from the town. It then ascends Holne Chase Hill, having the chase and the Buckland Woods to the right. At the top of the hill a road branches left, being joined a little further on by one from Buckfastleigh. This runs through the village of Holne to the moor gate, about a mile distant, and crosses Holne Moor to the forest, which it enters at Saddle Bridge, on the Wo Brook. The view is particularly fine, the tors above the gorge of the Dart here showing to great advantage. Not far from the gate is the Paignton storage reservoir, the formation of which has turned the
THE PRINCETOWN RAILWAY. 13
Wennaford Valley into a lake. Further on the hollow known as Hangman's Pit is passed, and afterwards Combestone Tor, to the R., a very steep hill following. At its foot flows the Wo Brook, and about a mile further on is Hexworthy, where, at the Forest Inn, the road turns down the hill to the R., being here known as Jolly Lane. Cross- ing the West Dart at Hexworthy Bridge it runs by the little chapel of St. Raphael's at Huccaby, and ascending the hill joins the road from Ashburton to Two Bridges more usually followed.
The last-named road having climbed Holne Chase Hill, two miles from Ashburton, descends to the Dart, which it crosses at New Bridge, and enters the commons. Here there is a steep ascent to the hamlet of Pound's Gate, where the enclosed country is reached, to be left again however, about a mile further on, when the road skirts Sherberton Common. Turning L/. at Ouldsbroom Cross it passes between Yar Tor Down and Dartmeet Hill, and descends to Dartmeet Bridge, on crossing which it enters the forest. Climbing the hill with the estate of Brimpts on the R., it reaches the gate where the road previously mentioned comes up from Huccaby, and then runs above the valley of the West Dart to Dunnabridge. A mile further on it crosses Cherry Brook, and in another mile and a half reaches Two Bridges, being joined by the Moreton road on the brow of the hill above that place.
The objects passed on these roads, and on others in different parts of the moor, are noticed more fully in the Excursions.
The Princetown Railway branches from Yelverton, on the Ply- mouth and Launceston line. It was opened in 1882, and from a point about midway between Yelverton and Dousland Stations follows very nearly the route taken by a tramroad constructed in the earlier part of the nineteenth century.
On leaving Dousland the railway is carried over Yennadon Down, which it nearly encircles in order to reach a point on the hill leading to Walkhampton Common by an easy gradient. Soon after the train enters on the down a good view of the valley of the Mew is presented, one object in it that will not fail to catch the eye being the tower of the little church of Heavy. On the further side of the valley is Calisham Down, with Wigford Down, the common above the Dewer Stone, beyond it. To the L,. of the first-named is Lynch Down, backed by Shaugh Moor, and then the bold sweep of Ringmoor Down comes into view. To the I,, is the giant mass of Sheeps Tor, with the village nestling at its foot, and at the further end of the opening between the down and the tor, is seen Gutter Tor, with a green path running up the common towards it. Below is the narrow Burrator Gorge, with the dam thrown across it for the purpose of storing the waters of the Mew, which, filling the valley between Peak Hill and Sheeps Tor, present the appearance of a true lake. This fine sheet of water, the storage reservoir for the town of Plymouth, is noticed in our Excur- sions from Yelverton. At its head is seen Down Tor, and the more distant Cramber Tor, while, rising above it to the L., are Lether Tor* and Sharp Tor, the first-mentioned being particularly striking. After
* The th has the heavy sound, the name being pronounced like the word leather. Indeed, in its earlier form it appears as Ledder, the true sound of which would be the same as leather, dd being actually the heavy th.
14 PRINCETOWN AND TWO BRIDGES DISTRICT.
passing a small plantation the upper valley of the Mew, and the Newley- combe Valley to the R. of it, are seen, with another fine tor near Down Tor. This is Combe Tor, and behind it rises the lofty height of Eyles- barrow. On Lowery Siding being passed the view is lost, but another speedily discloses itself. After crossing the Plymouth and Prince- town road a wide stretch of hill and dale, farm lands and woods, with distant heights, is seen to the L. of the railway as the train advances. A conspicuous object in the near view is Walkhampton Church, situated on a hill near the village. This is seen from many points on the rail- way as the train proceeds, and from both sides of it, consequent upon the windings of the line. Just here, although the train has to attain an elevation of about 1,400 feet, there is a down gradient. This was planned with a view to the more easily bringing up the train when running from Princetown to Dousland, or stopping a carriage, or truck, should such happen to become detached from a train proceeding to the first-named place. At this point the line draws nearer to Walk- hampton Church, then all at once turns away from it, and the train passes out on to the open moor.
The beautiful valley of the Walkham now partially reveals itself, the glimpses obtained from certain points to which the winding of the line bring the visitor speaking eloquently of its hidden beauties. Far down below is a wealth of trees, and where these cease to climb from the wooded depths, the granite-strewn commons are seen. On the down above its further side is Pu Tor, here a very prominent object, and far away beyond it the church- crowned summit of Brent Tor. Further up, and overhanging a small lateral valley not far from Merivale, is the curiously-shaped mass of Vixen Tor, with Cocks' Tor and the Staple Tors behind it, and to the R. the lofty Mis Tor, the monarch of this part of the moor, while much nearer to us is King Tor. Passing Routrendle the line sweeps out around Inga Tor, below which the ground is rather marshy, and then making a great bend to the right runs up to Yes Tor Green. Here, at the turn, the old tramroad, which made a rather longer sweep, will be noticed, with the little bridge that carried it over the brook. This is just below the pile known as Fur Tor. On the slope above, to the N.E., and exactly a quarter of a mile distant, the visitor may see the railway on which he is travelling. But that portion of it is more than 200 feet above him, and it is necessary for the train to make a journey of two and a half miles to attain that elevation. The line runs out under the granite quarries of the Messrs. Pethick Bros., and from here Inga Tor is again seen, also Walkhampton Church, and there is a fine view of the Cornish hills. Near King Tor, around which the railway runs, doubling back upon itself, the tram road is seen in several places where the line has left it a few yards on one side. Here the valley near Merivale and Mis Tor Moor is in full view, and the menhir on Long Ash Hill, near the double stone rows, can be plainly discerned.
The Red Cottages — a misnomer since their colour has been changed to black — the cottages at Rundle Stone, with Hollow Tor on the hill to the right, are also in sight. Passing the Royal Oak siding and the Foggin Tor Quarries, the line is carried by White Rock along the slope seen from below, and now the visitor looks down upon it as it winds round Yes Tor Green. Inga Tor is also seen once more, and to the it. of it the upper part of the tower of Walkhampton Church.
PRINCETOWN. THE WAR PRISON. 15
And now quite another part of the moor is opened up, although many tors seen during the first stage of the journey again become visible. But they are looked at from a different side, and in many instances their outlines are not the same. Sheeps Tor and Down Tor, Lether, Sharp, and Cramber are all in sight, as well as Gutter Tor. Further away is Trowles worthy Tor, on Lee Moor. In the direction of Walkhampton Leedon Tor is seen, and not very far from the railway is Black Tor, with Hart Tor just beyond it. Soon the Plymouth road is noticed where it crosses the hollow at Devil's Bridge, and a short distance further on the station, close to which is one of the stones marking the forest boundary, is reached.
Princetown was called into existence by the building of a war prison below North Hisworthy, the foundation stone being laid on the 2oth March, 1806, by Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt, who had suggested its location here. Sir Thomas built Tor Royal, and had great hopes of reclaiming Dartmoor. After 1816 the prison was untenanted for some time, but was subsequently used as a naphtha factory, for the pro- duction of which large quantities of peat were cut on Holming Beam In the meanwhile the little town fell into decay, and it was only when the prison was turned into a depot for convicts that its fortunes began to revive. This was in 1850. Since that date it has gradually im- proved, and now fully justifies its title of the capital of the moor. The church was built and fitted up by the French and American prisoners. At a meeting of the U.S. Daughters of 1812, held in New York in January, 1909, it was voted that the Society place a Memorial Window in the Church at Princetown. This was done, the window being un- veiled on June 3rd, 1910, by Mrs. Gerry Slade, the President. In the Church is also a Memorial Tablet to the soldiers who perished in the snow as related further on.
In 1912 a granite cross was erected in the western part of the churchyard which is set aside for the burial of convicts.
In The Story of Dartmoor Prison, by Mr. Basil Thomson, formerly Governor of the depot, much interesting information will be found. The stirring times of the French and American prisoners are vividly pictured, and the account is brought down to the present day.
Princetown was created an ecclesiastical parish in 1913.
The hamlet of Two Bridges is pleasantly situated in the valley of the West Dart, a mile and a half from Princetown. The trees under Bear Down near by were planted by Mr. Edward Bray, a solicitor, of Tavistock, who began operations here about 1780. Bear Down is probably bear dun, the promontory hill. The semi-circular belt at the foot of the hill is known as the Cowsic Horse Shoe. The inn, the forerunner of the present hotel, was built by Judge Buller, of Prince Hall.]
16 PRINCETOWN AND TWO BRIDGES DISTRICT.
Excursions from Princetown and Two Bridges.
[The Excursions are mostly within a radius of three miles of Princetown. The commons westward of the Walkham are noticed in the Tavistock District, and the neighbourhood of Sheeps Tor and Walkhampton in the Yelverton District.]
Tracks in the vicinity, Nos. i to 15, 18, ^6, 75, 80 (see the Section in Part V).
North Hisworthy Tor.
Before setting out on our Excursions from Princetown and Two Bridges we shall ascend the hill rising above the first-named place to the tor locally known as North Hessary, as an excellent view of the district over which our rambles are to extend is to be obtained from that breezy height. We therefore leave the main street by the turning opposite to the school, and passing through a gate, make our way up the hill, keeping close to the wall of the en- closures on the right. This will lead us directly to the tor, just before reaching which we find ourselves walking over the ground traversed by the perambulators who viewed the bounds of the forest in 1240. The boundary line is drawn from South Hisworthy to North Hisworthy, and here is marked by some granite posts of comparatively recent erection, which may be seen from the point we have now attained. The tor is by no means striking in appearance, but as a forest bond- mark mentioned in the return to the perambulation made in the thirteenth century, it is not altogether devoid of interest. The visitor will, however, find his chief reward in the wonderful view commanded from its summit. No less than about sixty tors are to be seen, besides a number of important hills. As Simon Renard read from the battle- ments of the White Tower the history of England, so one may look down from the crest of Hisworthy and read the history of modern Dartmoor. Northward and southward are the untamed hills, rising grim and bare ; vast solitudes where nothing of man's work is seen. Between these wild tracts is the more sheltered part, where the settler has formed his enclosures, and planted his few trees and made his roads. Immediately below, the prison and the town that grew up around it, and on the other side the iron way that has penetrated to the verge of the forest. Man has done something here, but when the beholder again looks upon the dusky sweeps that roll away into the blue distance, he realises how little it is.
VIEW FROM NORTH HISWORTHY. 17
In order to enumerate the tors seen from this hill, and at the same time to indicate their situations, it will be most convenient to commence with those on the common north of the road leading to Tavistock. If, therefore, we look in a W.N.W. direction we shall see this road winding up the side of the Walkham Valley. Immediately to the R. of it is Little Staple Tor, a small group of rocks, and R. of that again Mid Staple Tor, with Cocks' Tor rising behind it, the latter being situated at the southern extremity of a long hill with a rounded outline.* In a line with these tors, on the slope of Hisworthy and not far from us, is Hollow Tor. The fine tor to the R. of Mid Staple Tor is Great Staple Tor, and R. of this is Roose Tor. Between these two is seen the distant Brent Tor, with the little church on its summit. Beyond the dip R. of Roose Tor is Black Down, a fine common mostly in the parish of Mary Tavy, and R. of that is White Tor, or Whittor, as it is always called. The line of junction between the granite and the altered rocks runs through the shallow valley beyond the ridge on which rise the Staple Tors and Roose Tor. Cocks' Tor and White Tor are therefore not within the granite area ; they are composed of trap rock, and the difference in form between them and the granite hills is very striking, particularly when they are seen from Black Down. Right of Roose Tor, and on the nearer side of the Walkham Valley, is Great Mis Tor, one of the finest of the rock-piles on Dartmoor. Just below is Little Mis Tor, a square mass of granite, and quite near to us. at the foot of Hisworthy, is Rundle Stone Tor.
To the R. of Mis Tor, and in a direction a little W. of N. we look away to the ridge above the Rattle Brook, from which Hare Tor, Sharp Tor, and Great Links Tor rise in succession. The first-named is of a pyramidal form, and will be easily recognised, as also will Links Tor, the rocks of which rise to a considerable height above the turf. The rounded hill below it, and three miles nearer to us, is Standon, or Stannon, as it is usually called ; on its summit is a cairn presenting from this distance the appearance of a small mound. A little to the R. of Links Tor, the Dunnagoat Tors are seen, and R. of these is Amicombe Hill. From Links Tor the ground dips towards the north, where there is a great opening in the hills. This marks the deep gorge of the West Ockment, and above it to the R. is High Willes, the most elevated of the Dartmoor eminences. This height is exactly nine miles from the point on which we stand as measured on the map.
In a line with Amicombe Hill, but much nearer to us, being in fact only four miles distant, is Walkham Head, and if we look beyond this, and to the R. of it, we shall see the rocks of Fur Tor, with Cut Hill rising still further R. Peeping over its shoulder, far away in a direction N.N.E., is Newtake, the hill near Cranmere and East Dart Head. Less than two miles south of the summit of Cut Hill, and hi a line with it and our standpoint, is Cowsic Head. On one side of this, the L., we may see Conies Down Tor, and on the other side Devil's Tor. Quite close to the latter is Bear Down Man, but this can only be made out with the aid of a glass.
Rising against the sky to the R. of Devil's Tor is Row Tor, and under it, but more than a mile nearer to us, is Lydford Tor, at the
*This is known as Cocks' Tor Hill.
i8 PRINCETOWN AND TWO BRIDGES DISTRICT.
northern end of Bear Down. To the R., but further away, is Crow Tor, and then the Bear Down Tors, with White or Whitten Tor, seen between. It should be noticed that in Row Tor and Crow Tor the " ow " has the same sound as in crowd. One form of spelling the latter is Crough. To the R. of the Bear Down Tors, and on the ridge above the West Dart, we see Longaford and L,ittaford Tors, the former rising like a pyramid from the down.
Beyond these tors, and some four miles further away, is White Ridge, with Waters Down to the right of it. Near the latter the Moreton road is seen climbing the shoulder of Meripit Hill. Below us, and only two and a half miles distant, is Crockern Tor, close to which the Moreton road is also seen, as well as the Ashburton road between Two Bridges and Prince Hall. Further distant, E. by N., is Bellaford Tor, and bounding the view in this direction is the huge ridge of Hameldon.
Three quarters of a mile from Bellaford Tor is L,ough Tor — Lafter Tor, as it is generally called — and this is in full view to the R. of the former. Far away beyond these is seen Chinkwell Tor and Hey Tor, with the steep road leading up from the village of Widecombe. To the R. of Hey Tor is Saddle Tor, and R. of that Rippon Tor.
Much nearer than Rippon Tor, but seen a little to the R. of it, is Corn Down, with Yar Tor, the fine height that rises above Dartmeet ; and in the distance above the hanging woods that line the valley of the Dart, the granite boss of Buckland Beacon, and amid the trees below, the crag called Auswell Rock.* The road winding up the hill from Dartmeet is plainly visible, and above it Sharp Tor, and the crest of its neighbour, Mil Tor.
And now we look upon a part of the moor westward of the Dart. Four and a half miles away in a direction E. by S. the road running from Sherburton Bridge to Gobbet Plain is seen, and in a line with it and nearly three miles further distant, Bench Tor, on Holne Moor. Right of this we see the Holne road, where it climbs the steep hill above the eastern bank of the Wo Brook. The hill to the right of this is Down Ridge, above Hexworthy, and the next the swelling eminence of Cater's Beam, rising from the fen beyond Fox Tor, the piles of which are placed about midway up the hill-side. The direction of the tor is about S.E.
Peeping over the hill that bounds the view to the R. of Fox Tor are some distant heights. The first of these is Eastern Whitaburrow, and the next Western Whitaburrow, the high land between them being the summit of Bush Meads, at the foot of which the Avon runs. A little further to the R. is the prominent hill known as Three Barrows, •eight and a half miles distant.
Less than two miles from our standpoint is South Hisworthy Tor. Its direction is S.E., and it is in a line with Eastern Whitaburrow.
Looking in a direction S.S.E. we notice a combe on the hillside beyond the first ridge. This is Langcombe Bottom, through which runs a tributary of the Plym ; it falls into that stream at Plym Steps. The high land on this side of the combe is Eylesbarrow, and the distant point to the right of it is Shell Top, a fine height overlooking the in- country in the neighbourhood of Cornwood. On the side of the hill
* This is sometimes known as Hazel Tor.
VIEW FROM NORTH HISWORTHY. 19
under Shell Top, and a mile nearer to us, is Hen Tor. This rises above the Plym, and gives name to one of the warrens in the valley through which that stream runs. Rather over two miles nearer, and in a line with it, is Combeshead Tor, so named from its situation at the head of the Dean Combe valley.
To the right of Combeshead Tor is Down Tor, and a mile and a half beyond, with same bearings, is Gutter Tor, a pile at the eastern end of Ringmoor Down, and overlooking Ditsworthy Warren. The same distance beyond Gutter Tor, and in a line with it, are Great and I/ittle Trowlesworthy Tors, which are situated on the common lands belong- ing to the parish of Shaugh. The name of these tors is pronounced as though it were spelt without the first " w," and with the " o " long. The high land to the R. of these tors is that part of Shaugh Moor known as Saddlesborough.
But the most striking tor in this direction is Sheeps Tor, whose giant mass is only three and a half miles distant. It rises boldly S. by W. Below it, to the R., is the Heavy Valley, above the western side of which we see Lether Tor, and close to it one of the numerous Sharp Tors on the moor.
Now we must let our eyes wander a little to the L., and on the common below us we shall observe three tors. The first, which lies S. by E., is Cr amber Tor ; the next, and nearer to us, is Hart Tor, always called Harter Tor, which, however, is probably only a duplica^ tion of the final syllable ; and the other is Black Tor, which is quite near to the Plymouth road. The latter is at the same point of the compass as Sheeps Tor.
Once more we look towards Sharp Tor, and on the common to the R. of this shall notice another pile. This is Leedon Tor, and below it to the R. is Inga Tor, close to which is the Princetown Railway. Nearer to us, to the R., is Swell Tor, and further in that direction, and less than a mile and a half from where we stand, the fine pile of King Tor.
Below King Tor is the beautiful valley of the Walkham, and beyond this, and nearly in a line with the pile named, we see Pu Tor, conspicuously placed on the common near Sampford Spiney. Right -of this is Feather Tor, and then the curiously-shaped mass of Vixen Tor, and near it the Tavistock road, where we began our survey.
Although many of the Dartmoor hills attain an elevation of 1,700 or i, 800 feet, and some an even greater height, there is not one from which an uninterrupted view of half-a-dozen miles in every direction can be obtained. There is always another hill rising within that distance to obstruct the range of vision. Even High Willes and Cut Hill are not exceptions.
The view from North Hisworthy — or Ysfother, as the perambu- lators of 1 240 have it* — cannot fail to impress, on account of its extent. But while it reveals so much of the moor it does not convey that idea of it which is obtained from High Willes, or Great Links. Tor, and a few other prominent hills. The wilder parts of the moor are hidden from the beholder on Hisworthy, or when glimpses of such are afforded it is
* By the jury who surveyed the bounds of the forest in 1609 the tor is mentioned as Hisworthie. In 1786 another jury refer to it by the same name, but with the modern terminal " y."
20 PRINCETOWN AND TWO BRIDGES DISTRICT.
of spots too far off for the nature of them to be properly estimated. He cannot look down as from the heights mentioned, or as he may from Three Barrows and from Ryders" Hill, upon a scene of wildness and desolation ; the eye has to range over the enclosed parts of the moor before it can rest upon the heathery slopes that cultivation has not disturbed. He sees, indeed, scarcely anything of the remote parts of the south quarter of the forest, and not much of the recesses of the north.
Westward of Hisworthy, beyond the commons, is a wonderful riew of the south-western part of Devon, with the Channel off Ply- mouth, and of East Cornwall. Pasture lands and woods, towns and villages, make up the picture over which the eye wanders till it lights upon the Cornish hills that rise up against the western sky.
On the slope of Hisworthy, and not far from the tor, is a rain- guage, placed on the line bounding the water-collecting area of the Burrator Lake. This suggests the question of rainfall, one into which it will perhaps be wise not to enter. A town cannot very well occupy so elevated a site as Princetown, which is placed about i ,400 feet above sea level, without receiving its full share of moisture, but it may perhaps be some consolation to the visitor if we assure him that by far the greater proportion of the rain is reserved for the inhabitants : during the holiday season blue skies are usually above it.
And now, having looked upon so many of the Dartmoor tors, we will bid adieu to Hisworthy, with its overhanging rock, and set out on our way to make closer acquaintance with them, or at least with such of them as present features more than ordinarily interesting, as well as to examine others not seen from its crest. But, though we bid the tor good-bye, we shall not readily forget it, for much that we see will recall our visit to it. Often, too, our eyes will rest upon it when we are in distant parts of the moor, so that it will be neither out of sight nor out of mind.
(It was thought that to burden this description with references would be inconvenient to the reader ; the Indexes will show where a notice of each tor named is to be found).
[Prom Two Bridges the visitor will take the left hand road to Princetown, passing the Ockery on his way, but he will find it a good plan to return by the Tavistock road. To do this he will descend the northern slope of Hisworthy, keeping near to the wall, to Rundle Stone (Ex. i), whence the highway from Tavistock runs due E. to Two Bridges (2 m.) Just before reaching the road Rundle Stone Tor is passed ; the tor seen to the left, and not far off, in descending the side of Hisworthy, is Hollow Tor.]
EXCURSION I. WALKHAMPTON COMMON.
Ex. i. The Soldiers' Pond — Devil's Bridge — Stone Rows near Sharp Tor — Routrendle — Yes Tor Bottom — Ward Bridge — Okel Tor — Merivale Bridge — Mining Houses on the Walkham — Merivale Antiqui- ties— Rundle Stone. About 12 miles from Princetown. Add 3-^ m. if from Two Bridges.
Among the interesting objects in the vicinity of Princetown not a few are to be found on Walkhampton Common, and to a brief examination of some of the more striking of these we shall first devote our attention. For the present our ramble will extend only over that part of the common lying between the Plymouth road, the Tavistock road, and the Walkham river. Other divisions of it will be noticed in future excursions. We leave Princetown by the first-named high- way, and shortly after passing the corner of the enclosures R., where the old path known as the Frenchmen's Road branches (T. 5), shall reach one of the row of stones marking the forest boundary where it runs from South Hisworthy to North Hisworthy Tor. Here we leave the ancient royal hunting-ground and enter upon Walkhampton Common. About 200 yards further on, and L. of the road, is an object associated with one of Dartmoor's sad memories. It is a small hollow filled with water, and surrounded by a bank rising above the level of the common, which goes by the name of the Soldier's Pond, and marks the spot where a corporal of the 7th Royal Fusiliers perished hi the snow, in February, 1853. The bodies of two privates who were accompanying him were found at a spot known as Double Waters, where a little stream runs under the road. The event is recorded on a tablet in Princetown Churchyard. The grave in which these "three valiant soldiers" lie was restored in 1908.
The road now descends into a hollow where it crosses the springs of the Mew at Devil's Bridge. The name suggests a legend, but in reality became attached to the spot in a very prosaic manner. The bridge, which is merely a culvert, was built by a labourer who rejoiced, or otherwise, in the sobriquet of Devil. That is all ; " story, I have none to tell." His Santanic Majesty has left his name in other places on Dartmoor, but not at this particular spot.
On the slope above Devil's Bridge, that is to the N.W. and W. of it, are a number of hut circles. One group is close to the railway. In connection with the other there is a pound, overlooking Yes Tor Bottom. In this combe fragments of a vessel of highly glazed ware were discovered a few years ago under some slag, and also the bottom of a cooking-pot, as well as sherds and charcoal.
Proceeding on our way we soon reach Double Waters, which is about half-a-mile from the hollow. Here we notice Black Tor, a short distance across the common to the L. Near it are some prehistoric antiquities, and also an extensive stream work with two mining houses, which are noticed in our next excursion. West of Double Waters, and about a quarter of a mile from it, are several hut circles ; in fact, these ancient ruined dwellings are exceedingly numerous in that part of the common now under notice.
22
PRINCETOWN AND TWO BRIDGES DISTRICT.
Black Tor.
Lether Tor.
Sharp Tor.
FROM DOUBLE WATERS, I.OOKIXG S.VV.
As we pass on, we shall be struck with the bold appearance of two tors immediately in front of us. The one L. is the principal pile of Lether Tor ; the other is Sharp Tor, which has a rather greater eleva- tion. R., and much nearer to us, is L,eedon Tor, consisting of several fine groups of rocks in which the granite is fantastically piled. Looking back in a northerly direction we see the pound just mentioned. It is situated on the slope below the railway, where the latter begins to hide itself behind the hill on the nearer side of which are the granite quarries. Below us, L., are the enclosures of Stanlake Farm, the house itself also being visible. On the hill beyond it is Cr amber Tor (Ex. 2), and across the valley to the R. of the farm, is Down Tor (Ex. 2, 38), with the fine mass of Sheeps Tor (Ex. 38) still further R. One of the enclosures of Stanlake is built on a stone row. This is noticed in Ex. 39.
At a point about 2\ miles from Princetown our road begins to ascend the flank of Peak Hill. Here it is crossed by a track (T. 4) coming up in front of us from the direction of Walkhampton, and running down the hill L. to Stanlake. Half mile further on we reach the twelfth milestone from Plymouth. This is known as Goad's Stone, and on the upper half of the face are some markings, but they are not readily distinguishable. Passing up the hill we soon reach a pond on the L. of the road, on the brink of which is a double stone row. It is in a very ruined condition, but may be traced for some distance. It appears to terminate at a boulder, but is really continued, as a careful examination will show, to the remains of a kistvaen at its northern end. Near it is also a single row. Prom the pond, which, by the way, has never been known to be dry, we may ascend Sharp Tor and the summit of Peak Hill, the view from which points is exceedingly fine, and is noticed in our Excursions from Yelverton. (Ex. 39).
In his progress towards Sharp Tor from Double Waters the rambler will probably have noticed a reave running from the pile down the hill towards the road. From our station near the pond we shall, on look- ing north-eastward, perceive another of these objects on the left. It runs across the track we saw at the foot of the ascent, and like the
24 PRINCETOWN AND TWO BRIDGES DISTRICT.
former, climbs the hill capped by Leedon Tor. These reaves have been said to extend for a very conisderable distance ; one of them, indeed, as far as Chagford. If the visitor considers that a hiatus of a few miles here and there does not render this doubtful, and is quite ready to believe, if he picks up a line anywhere to the north or south of the point at which all traces were lost, that he is still following the same reave, he may, if he cares for a long tramp, satisfy himself that it really does go to Chagford. It may, therefore, be as well to inform him that it is the Sharp Tor reave that was once said to lead to that moorland town, although it is highly probable that if he chooses the other reave the result of his endeavours will be precisely the same.
Hut circles occur between the track before-named and the summit of Leedon Hill. To the fine rocks crowning that eminence we shall now make our way, and strike thence towards Inga Tor, which bears N.W., and is close to the Princetown Railway. When about 300 yards from the last-named tor, and in a direct line between the two, we shall come upon a kistvaen surrounded by a circle of stones about 20 feet in diameter. Both are unfortunately in a dilapidated condition. The cover of the kist is four feet in length, and nearly three feet in width. Turning southward towards the railway we shall direct our steps to a crossing-place to which two white gates give access, and which forms an approach to Routrendle, a moor farm in full view from the road at Goad's Stone. On reaching the further side of the railway we shall follow a road that will lead us to the farmhouse. This we leave on the I/., and shall shortly regain the open common, not far from Inga Tor, which we see rising immediately above the line. On passing this pile, the rocks of which are poised in a similar manner to those of Leedon Tor, the line makes a bend towards the east, and crossing the lower end of Yes Tor Bottom,* turns again to the west, and runs out to King Tor.
[This spot may be reached from Princetown direct by following the road to Devil's Bridge, and then striking up over the common westward, with the railway on the R., or by crossing the bridge near the station from the Frenchmen's road (T. 5) and then turning L. If the latter route is followed the visitor will pass under the line at the first cattle creep he comes to, where is a little stream. From this point he will see the railway far down below, as it sweeps round towards Inga Tor. He must then make for it, keeping well to the R. Should the way by Devil's Bridge be chosen, the railway will be similarly seen below.
From Yes Tor Bottom the rambler may make his way around King Tor, noticing Little King Tor on the L., to the Royal Oak level, by taking the railway for his guide. He will keep it on his R., crossing it on reaching the tor if he wishes to ascend the pile. If he desires first to see the quarries he will ascend the hill above the line, whence he may look down upon them. Granite quarrying on this part of Dartmoor commenced on the opening of the Plymouth and Dartmoor
* Apparently a corruption of East Tor. Yes Tor Green, below the bottom, is shown on a map of Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt's projected railway as Easter Green. The date of this is 1818. Here is Crip Tor Farm, and adjoining it are the ruins of another Dartmoor homestead.
EXCURSION I. WARD BRIDGE. OREL TOR. 25
Railway in 1823. [100 Years, Chap. III.] From the Royal Oak level the visitor may return to Princetown either by way of the Red Cottages and Rundle Stone, or by following the line to the station. If the former route be chosen he will make his way to the cottages, which are seen near by, and passing them will gain the high road from Tavistock, just above the Mission Room. Directions for reaching Princetown from this point are given at the end of the present excursion.]
Making our way over the common from Routrendle, with the wall of the enclosures on our I,., we shortly reach a moor gate opening upon a lane. This we descend, and shall soon find that it is crossed by another, which comes up from Walkhampton and runs on to Merivale. Here we turn R., the latter now becoming our road, unless it be desired -to visit Ward Bridge before proceeding up the valley, in which case we continue to descend the hill. The bridge, which is not far distant, is situated in one of the most charming parts of the valley of the Walkham, and is noticed in our excursions from Tavistock (Ex. 7).
At a distance of less than 4- m. from the point where the lanes intersect each other we shall reach Whithill Farm, where the road crosses the Yes Tor Brook by a clapper of two openings. It is of comparatively modern date, and presents nothing remarkable. Be- yond this we pass Davy Town Farm (see Town in the list of terms), when our road becomes exceedingly rough. But we shall regard the inconvenience of traversing it as a very light matter when we arrive at Okel Tor Gate,* for we shall then have reached one of the most beautiful of the rock piles of Dartmoor. [Gems, Chap. XXI.] The gate, which is at the top of a slight ascent, is hung to the rocks of the tor, and, having passed through it, we find ourselves in their midst. The piles do not rise high above the ground, and there is nothing of the grandeur that belongs to such granite crowns as Mis Tor, or Staple Tor, or Hound Tor ; but the masses are so delightfully shrouded in dwarf oaks and mountain ash, tufts of heather, and patches of the bright green whortleberry plants, that they present an appearance that cannot fail to enchant the beholder. In place of sternness we have beauty ; the rugged is lost in the softening effect of the foliage that so happily mingles with the weather-stained rocks. A number of tors are in view, and away to the south, beyond the farm lands, rise the heights that look down upon Plymouth Sound. Beneath us is the charming Walkham Valley, but the length of our present excursion will prevent us from visiting it now. To do so it will be better to proceed by the road from Princetown to Merivale (R. i), and on reach- ing that place to follow the directions given in Excursion 7.
Leaving Okel Tor, with its drapery of living green, we continue on our way, and soon the sound of falling water strikes upon the ear. Coming down from the moor in the neighbourhood of Rundle Stone, the Long Ash Brook here crosses our track on its way to join the Walk- iam. The road is carried over it by a clapper, which, though not of great size, is yet an excellent example of these rude bridges. The banks of the stream being so thickly covered with bushes little of the structure can be seen in crossing, but a good view of it is to be obtained
* Often called Hucken Tor.
26 PRINCETOWN AND TWO BRIDGES DISTRICT.
from a point a few yards below it on the southern side. The clapper has two openings, and the centre pier and buttresses are formed of massive stones. Just beyond we reach Long Ash Farm, and shortly afterwards find ourselves on the Princetown and Tavistock road, near Merivale Bridge. Our walk from the cross lanes has been a rough one, but it has brought us through some of the finest Dartmoor border scenery. [If the visitor does not desire to go to Merivale he may strike up across the enclosures from Long Ash Farm to the common, on which the stone rows shortly to be noticed are situated. The distance is very short.]
Merivale Bridge spans the Walkharn, which stream here forms- the boundary between Walkhampton Common and the common lands belonging to the parish of Whitchurch. The hamlet of Merivale is- situated in the latter parish, and consists of a roadside house of enter- tainment called the Dartmoor Inn, a few cottages, a modern Wesleyan Chapel, and a row of dwellings erected during recent years for the men working in the adjoining Tor Granite Quarries of Messrs. Duke and Company. The stone is conveyed by road to the railway at Tavistock, which town is 4^- miles from the bridge.
On the common between the road leading from the bridge towards Princetown and Great Mis Tor, which rises high above the left bank of the Walkham, are some deep cuttings of the tinners, and close to the stream the remains of two small buildings in which they smelted their ore are to be seen. The rambler will find these on the left bank, the first being about a furlong above the bridge. A door jamb marks the entrance, and near to this is a mould stone. The mould is a large one, being about 18 inches in length, and as usual has bevelled sides. In one end of it is a notch, no doubt intended for the more easy with- drawal of the block of metal. In the stone there is also a tiny mould, four inches long. Similar small cavities are to be seen in other mould stones on the moor, and it is thought they were intended for sample ingots. Above the house traces of a leat are observable, by which water was probably conducted to a wheel. Under the house is a small culvert leading from that part of the building in which the wheel appears to have stood. Another stone will be noticed in this blowing- house which has been hollowed out in the manner of a shallow trough. This it is not unlikely formed the bottom of the furnace, in the midst of the remains of which it lies. The second building will be found about half-a-mile further up stream. Here also is a stone with a large and small mould, as well as the remains of a leat.
Near the head waters of the Walkham are other mining remains ; these are briefly noticed in the excursions from Lydford. (Ex. 10).
In making his way back to the road the rambler may forsake the guidance of the river, and keeping a little up the hillside pass Over Tor, where Mrs. Bray alighted upon a rock basin filled with water, and having washed her hands in it her husband bestowed upon it the name of " Mrs. Bray's Wash-hand Basin."
On Long Ash Hill, above Merivale Bridge, are the well-known stone rows.* To reach these from the bridge the rambler will pass up
* This group of remains was formerly known in the neighbourhood as the Potato Market, and also as the Plague Market, and a tradition stated that provisions were brought here by the country people and
EXCURSION I. ANTIQUITIES AT MERIVALE. 27
the Princetown road for a short distance, and will then strike up across the common to the R., when the tall menhir near the Long Ash enclosures will come in sight and serve as a guide to the other objects of which he is in search. There are two rows, both being double, and some faint indications of a third nearer to the menhir. The direction of the two former is nearly due east and west, and they are roughly parallel to each other. The length of these rows of stones has been variously given, showing discrepancies of about 200 feet in the northern row and about 300 feet in the southern. This reminds us of what used to be said of the Giant's Grave, near Kenford. It was formerly marked by two stones, and the country people declared that no matter how often the distance between them was measured the result was never the same. But some who have used the tape at Merivale have proved a little more fortunate, for the measurements of the rows given by Sir Gardner Wilkinson have been verified by more than one.j The length of the southern row is 850 feet, and that of the northern 590. About the middle of the former is a stone circle, and at the eastern end of the latter a large stone. This is placed between the lines, and closes the end of the row, as it were. Near the north-western end of the southern row is a small cairn, much dilapidated, and about 600 feet south-east of this, and also near the same row, is a ruined kistvaen. This was formerly regarded as a dolmen, or cromlech, and is marked as such on a plate illustrating a paper by the Rev. Samuel Rowe, in the first volume of the Transaction of the Plymouth Institution (1830) ; and it is also so marked on a plate accompanying the paper in which these remains are mentioned by Sir Gardner Wilkinson. Unfortunately the cover stone is broken, and one of the side stones also. This damage was done about the year 1860 ; gate posts being cut from the former, and part of the latter being removed. Over thirty years later an examination was made of the kist, and a flint scraper and flake and polishing stone were found. About 300 feet southward of the small dilapidated cairn previously mentioned, and not far from the menhir, are the remains of a stone circle. The menhir, which stands on the line of the old Tavistock and Ashburton track (T. i, 7, 56), and which was in this part of its course identical with a branch of the Abbots' Way (T. i), is a good example. Its height is ten and a half feet.
Near by is a corner formed by the walls of the Long Ash enclosures, and here there is a gateway, whence a path leads towards the farm house. Built into this wall is the half of a large circular stone, about ten feet in diameter.
North-eastward of the rows, and not very far from the road, is a small enclosure formed of upright blocks set on their edges in the ground. Hut circles occur within and without it, and in some of these charcoal has been found. A large number of these ruined dwellings are also to be seen northward of the road, on the slope above the
deposited as supplies for Tavistock, at a time when the plague ravaged that town. See Tamar and Tavy. Letter IX.
f The Merivale remains are drawn to scale and figured in Sir Gardiner Wilkinson's paper, entitled, The Rock Basins of Dartmoor, and some British Remains in England, Journal of the British Archa?o- logical Assoc., 1860.
PRINCETOWN AND TWO BRIDGES DISTRICT.
Walkham. (Ex. 6). Near the enclosure is a round stone resting on some supporters. Visitors are cautioned not to allow their antiquarian zeal to carry them so far as to suppose this to be a dolmen. It is true that a well-known archaeologist once made this mistake, but with the history of the stone before us there can be no danger of our doing so. He afterwards discovered that what he had regarded as an ancient monument had been fashioned by a man then living in the vicinity. The piece of granite had been intended for a millstone, but was found to be unfitted for the purpose.
The stones in the Long Ash rows and circles are small, and the general effect cannot be said to be particularly striking. Finer examples of the stone row exist on Dartmoor, as we shall see, but at the same time it must be confessed that the megalithic monuments on the moor are not imposing. Of pounds and remains of ancient habitations fine examples exist there, but the same cannot be said of the sepulchral circles, while the stones in many of the rows rise only a foot or so above the turf. This is the more surprising seeing that in so many parts of the moor stones of large size and of suitable shape are scattered abundantly over the surface of the ground. One has only to look upon the clatter on the slope of Mis Tor to see what a striking effect might have been produced had choice been made of the kind of stones found there instead of such comparatively small ones as compose the rows. It is the vast number of its stone remains that renders Dartmoor remarkable from an archaeological point of view, and not the size or importance of individual groups of antiquities.
But though the visitor to Merivale may be somewhat disappointed when he views the long lines of stones, and remembers what he has read of Carnac, he will certainly not fail to be pleased with his sur- roundings. And after all, it is the scenery of Dartmoor and not its antiquities that constitutes its chief charm. In its wildness, its old associations, and its stories of other days, the visitor will probably find an attraction far greater than in the mouldering monuments of its early people, important as these may seem to the antiquary. As the late Mr. W. F. Collier has well observed, " in comparison to the work of nature all interest in them vanishes."
From the plateau near the menhir we look across the Walkham valley, and in a direction about W.S.W. see the piles of Pu Tor ; to the right of these, and much nearer to us, is the granite mass of Vixen Tor, and still further to the right, and immediately below us, the hamlet of Merivale. On the ridge above it are placed Mid Staple Tor and Great Staple Tor, and further north, Roose Tor. To the N.N.E. Great Mis Tor, the giant of the moor, uplifts his rocky crest. Turning to the south we see King Tor, with the Princetown Railway winding round its base.
The guide stones marking the old Tavistock and Ashburton track (T. i, 7, 56) and bearing the letters T and A [Ancient Crosses, Chap. XIV.] may be seen on this part of the common, leading from the menhir eastward.
These guide stones run towards Yellowmead Farm, which will be noticed on the hillside, E. A short distance from the lower corner of the farm enclosures is a pound having hut circles within it.
Leaving the rows we make our way to the road, and passing up
EXCURSION I. BUNDLE STONE. 29
the hill shall shortly reach the Mission Room. Just beyond this we cross the Long Ash Brook near its source, and here a road turns R. to the Foggin Tor granite quarries, passing the Red Cottages. About a quarter of a mile further on we reach the first of the dewllings at Rundle Stone. Opposite to a row of granite posts on the right of the way is the wall of an enclosure. It was close to this wall that a school- master belonging to the prison at Princetown lost his life in the snow many years ago. When on his way home from Tavistock snow com- menced to fall, and though urged to remain for the night in a cottage at which he called, near Moor Shop (R. i), he determined to continue his journey. I have been told by one who was present that he appeared very anxious to get to his home, saying that he feared his wife would be alarmed if he did not return that night. After his departure the storm increased in fury, and the next day his body was found at the spot indicated. It was said that he possessed some artistic skill, and that the very last picture he produced represented a man meeting his death in the snow. [100 Years, Chap. X.]
It is not so very long since that the dwellings at Rundle Stone were mere miserable huts, as the ruins of some still attest. Passing on, with Mount View, a modern house, on the I/., we soon reach the site of the object that gave name to this spot. This was a granite pillar known as the Rundle Stone, which stood on the forest boundary line. It is not named as a bondmark in any of the surveys, but was, however, recognized as such in 1702. It was formerly to be seen on the S. of the way, immediately opposite to the modern boundary stone, which we shall observe on the L. This bears the names of the parishes that here meet each other — Lydford and Walkhampton — and on passing it we again enter the forest. The Rundle Stone was broken up several years ago, when a wall was being built near by. It is much to be regretted that an ancient landmark should have been wantonly destroyed ; unfortunately the spoliator has been busy on Dartmoor,, and has swept away many interesting objects. About the year 1881 I took measurements of the Rundle Stone. It stood 7 feet above the stones in which it was set, and was four feet in girth. Near the top was the letter R, cut in relief. It is marked on a map dated 1720 as a " Great stone call'd Roundle." Rundle Stone Tor is a short distance up the hill to the south.
A few yards further on, and exactly six miles from Tavistock, is Rundle Stone Corner, where a road branches R. to Princetown ; the Duchy Hotel is i-J- miles distant. This we shall follow, and shortly after passing the prison shall enter the town. If our destination be Two Bridges, 2 m., we keep straight on from Rundle Stone, crossing the Blackabrook on our way.
[A direct route from Princetown to Yes Tor Bottom has been given. Direct route to Ward Bridge : First to Yes Tor Bottom — thence down the common W. by S. to the moor gate near Withill Farm. Those who prefer to do so may make their way from Princetown to the Long Ash Rows by North Hisworthy Tor, instead of taking the road to Rundle Stone as described in S. Ex. 3. From the tor the way lies N.W. to Hollow Tor, which is near by and in sight, and then down by the Red Cottages. Thence down the hill W., crossing the Long Ash Brook, to the rows. The road to Merivale Bridge is described in Route i.]
30 PRINCETOWN AND TWO BRIDGES DISTRICT.
Ex. 2. — Hart Tor — Cr amber Tor — Crazy Well Pool — Roundy Farm — Lcther Tor Bridge — Riddy Pit — Mining Houses on the Mew — Raddick Hill — Stone Rows near Black Tor. About 7 miles from and to Prince- town. EXTENSION to Hingston Hill Stone Rows add 2 miles. ALTERNATIVE RETURN ROUTE from Crazy Well by Older Bridge and South Hisworthy. DIRECT ROUTE to Siward's Cross, 2^ m. from Princetown.
One of the curiosities of Walkhampton Common is Crazy Well Pool, which, unlike the more famous Cranmere Pool in the northern part of the moor, is really deserving of its title. Between the pool and Princetown, from which it is distant about 2-i- miles, are several objects of antiquarian interest, and the border scenery being of a fine character, the rambler should not neglect to visit it.
We leave Princetown by the Plymouth road as in Ex. i , but when reaching a gate on the R. near the top of Devil's Bridge Hill, shall forsake it and strike across the common L., our course now being .almost due S. Ahead of us are seen two tors, the left hand one being Sheeps Tor and the other Lether Tor. We make for a point about midway between these two, and very soon Hart Tor, which is quite near to us, comes into view, in a direct line with Sheeps Tor, but much under it. Other rock piles seen to the R. of Lether Tor are Sharp Tor and Leedon Tor, with Inga Tor far down below the latter. Beyond Hart Tor, and on the further side of the Mew, is Black Tor. A straight line to Crazy Well Pool would leave Hart Tor a little to the right, but the rambler will perhaps hardly pass it by without a visit. As we progress other tors come into view. Pu Tor and Heckwood Tor (Ex. 7), on the downs beyond the Walkham Valley, will be observed on the R., as also will Swell Tor, the latter marking the site of the granite quarries, which are comparatively near to us, while behind us the summit of North Hisworthy is seen. On the slope down which we pass before commencing the ascent of the tor is a cluster of hut circles
In itself Hart Tor presents nothing remarkable, though it is rather striking when seen from some points, particularly from Black Tor, but the view from it is good. In addition to the tors already named a dozen others, are in sight, including the range beyond Merivale, with Mis Tor, and Higher and Lower White Tor. Brent Tor, with its little church, rises N.W. by W., and far awav to the N. is the summit of the lonely Cut Hill.
On the slope south-westward of the tor are a pair of stone rows. These are noticed further on.
Our next point is Cramber Tor, which is about half-a-mile distant, in a direction S. by E. We therefore descend to the Hart Tor Brook, which we shall cross at a ford, and find ourselves on the Princetown and Kingsett track (T. 3). This will, however, afford us little guidance here, as it is by no means clearly defined ; but we shall hardly need any, for ere we have proceeded very far up the hill in front of us we come in sight of the tor. On reaching it we shall find that our view southward is greatly extended.
Hen Tor and Gutter Tor, in the Plym Valley, are seen, with Shell Top, the height overlooking Cornwood, beyond. Across the valley below us is Down Tor, with Combeshead Tor to the L. of it. Between these two tors and Sheeps Tor, whose giant bulk here looms largely, is the beautiful Dean Combe (Ex. 38). To the L. of Sheeps Tor we
EXCURSION 2. CRAZY WELL POOL.
look far away to the Staddon Heights, on the eastern side of Plymouth Sound. A striking feature in the scene is the Burrator Lake (Ex. 39)
BURRATOR I.AKE FROM CRAMBER TOR.
•with Lether Tor, the fine proportions of which are strikingly presented from this point, rising above its northern shore. We get a glimpse of Yennadon, and a view of the distant Kit Hill, on the Cornish side of the Tamar, an eminence conspicuous in all this part of the moor. It is marked by a lofty mine chimney on its crest.
Leaving this spot, the view from which is rendered so impressive t>y the fine grouping of the nearer tors, we shall make our way to Crazy Well Bridge, where the cart track to Kingsett crosses the Devonport Leat. This is about three furlongs distant, and if we pursue a course due S. we shall not fail to strike it. The pool is situated just below, but is not visible until we reach the edge of the deep hollow in which the waters are gathered. That this hollow is artificial is evident at a glance. It is an excavation of the tinners, who were once very busy on this part of the common, as even a cursory examination will show. It is said to cover about an acre of ground. Its depth is about 1 5 feet, though it used to be related on the moor how the bellropes belonging to Walkhampton Church were once tied together and let down into it, and yet no bottom was found. It was also said to rise and fall with the tide ; but that was " yeers agone." That the water does, however, sometimes rise very rapidly, we shall probably not care to dispute if we have ever experienced a true Dartmoor downpour.
In my Ancient Stone Crosses of Dartmoor there is a brief notice of Crazy Well Pool (Chap. X.), and in connection with it mention is made of a poem by the Rev. John Johns, entitled, Gaveston on Dartmoor. There was formerly a tradition in the forest that the favourite of Edward II. sought concealment there during one of his banishments from Court. Mr. Johns, with a poet's license, discovers Gavestoii at early morn beside the waters of Crazy Well, where he meets the Witch of Sheeps Tor, and his fate is revealed to him, though he does not read the prophecy aright. But no tradition regarding Gaveston is found in the neighbourhood of Crazy Well ; the choice of the spot for the scene of the poem was merely fanciful on the part of its author. Whether another story of a knight who came secretly to Dartmoor, and which is related further on (Ex. 20), has any reference to the favourite I cannot say, but it belongs to the eastern side of the forest
32 PRINCETOWN AND TWO BRIDGES DISTRICT.
and not to Walkhampton Common. Gaveston held the forest under grant from Edward II. At his death it reverted to the Crown.
A short distance southward of the pool is the track leading from Lowery to White Works, which is formed on the line of an ancient one running across the forest to Dartmeet and Holne. This is the track which, as already mentioned (T. 2), the discovery of certain stone crosses revealed to me. A portion of one of the objects that evidently marked its course, consisting only of the head and arms, is to be seen near the N.E. corner of the pool. Its original site was probably a little nearer to the old path. [Crosses, Chap. X.]
Not far from Crazy Well Pool are the ruins of Roundy farmhouse, and thither we shall now direct our steps. A gully will be seen ex- tending from the S. side of the pool, and this we must leave on the L as we descend the slope. We soon come in sight of some enclosures, R., within which, and a short distance above the track just referred to, the remains of the ancient homestead are situated. The building below us, and on the further side of the track, is Kingsett farm house, and a little over a quarter of a mile to the E., or I/., of this, though not in sight, are the ruins of another, which bears the same name as the pool. In the valley is the Newleycombe Lake, a stream that joins the Mew immediately below Nosworthy Bridge, and very near to the upper end of the Burrator Lake (Ex. 39).
Roundy Farm is interesting as an example of an old Dartmoor dwelling, though there are several on the moor that boast a far greater antiquity. A stone over the doorway bears the letters R.C., and the date 1668, cut in relief, and about six inches in height. The initials have been thought to be those of Richard Cryrnes, whose family were long seated at Crapstone, in Buckland Monachorum parish, and to which the manor was granted at the Dissolution. Crapstone was built by them, and afterwards became the property of the Elfords by purchase. (Yelverton District). If the date on the stone is that of the erection of the house, and not of a restoration, it is not improbable that the latter was built on the site of a still older dwelling. There were farm enclosures on this common at the beginning of the seventeenth century, and it is more than likely that Roundy was one of these. The jury which made a presentment respecting the forest, in 1609, refer to this part of the moor, and speak of " certayne howses " that had been erected there, and of land that had been enclosed. In going through the ruins the large fireplace will be noticed, also a recess in the wall, and in the garden what was evidently a cooling-place for butter.
Northward of the farmhouse, and inside the enclosures, are a number of hut circles, some of them being good examples. There is one small circular enclosure of a kind not usually met with. This will be found a short distance above the ruin.
Before setting out on his return to Princetown the visitor who is interested in mining remains will do well to visit Riddy Pit, where are some stones with hollows in them. To do this he will make his way down to the track below Roundy, and turning right will follow it to Lether Tor Bridge, a clapper of two openings, but evidently not of very ancient construction. Just above the bridge he will notice a track run- ning up on the left bank of the Mew. This will lead him to Riddy Pit, which is indeed quite near, and where are the ruins of two houses. A little beyond these he will find the stones with the cavities. They
EXCURSION 2. REMAINS ON KINGSTON HILL. 33
now form part of the paving of the rough track. Close by is an old wall, and near to this, and built into the hedge, is a stone in which there is a circular cavity on each side. Another curious stone having a rounded top, and with a small piece of iron leaded into it, will also be seen. This was probably the upper stone of a crushing mill. On his way back the rambler may strike L. at about a quarter of a mile from the bridge, into Raddick Lane, and so gain the common northward of Roundy Farm.
Below Lether Tor Bridge the Mew flows between farm enclosures, and by the edge of the common, to Nosworthy Bridge. The latter we have named as an important point in the Princetown District, as it marks the confluence, as already stated, of the Mew and Newleycombe Lake. A track opposite to Raddick Lane leads down to it (R. 8), but the approach most frequently used branches from the Lowery road at Cross Gate. The bridge is noticed in the excursions from Yelverton. (Ex. 39),
[Extension from Crazy Well Pool to Hingston Hill. On that part of the common bearing the name of Hingston Hill, and situated to the south of Newleycombe Lake, is an interesting group of pre-historic remains, and these the visitor may very well include in the present ramble. Having examined Roundy Farm he will make his way to the track before referred to (T. 2), and leaving Kingsett on the R. will pass down by the ruins of Crazy Well Farm, to which a path branches, and descend to Newleycombe Lake. There is a fording place where he will strike the stream, but usually it can be crossed at any point without much difficulty. If preferred the rambler may turn R. on reaching the track, and then L. to Kingsett. If he does this he will find just across the stream, and opposite to the farm house, a ruined building, very much overgrown. It is so decayed that it is not possible to determine its character, but it may have been connected with mining operations. A stone with a cavity will be observed in the doorway, and this seems to indicate that such was the case. The hollow has all the appearance of an unfinished tin mould. But whether the stream be crossed below Crazy Well or Kingsett, the visitor will have no difficulty in discovering the object that has brought him to this part of Walkhampton Common. He will mount the hill, keeping a course about S.E., with Down Tor on his R., and the remains, which are less than half a mile from the stream, will soon come in sight. These consist of a single row of stones running nearly east and west, with a menhir at each end. Very near to the western menhir, which is much the higher of the two, is a stone circle about 36 feet in diameter, enclosing a barrow. About 300 yards from the eastern menhir is a cairn 50 feet or more in diameter, and not far distant is a pound. Some of the stones is the row are of large size, and the monument is more than usually striking. The menhirs, which had fallen, were set up in the summer of 1894. The length of the row is about 340 yards. South of the row is Combeshead Tor, and below this is the charming Dean Combe, both of which are noticed in the Yelverton Excursions. (Ex. 39). Returning to the stream we may cross it at Kingsett Steps, below the farm, and, mounting the hill, shall once more find ourselves on the common near Roundy.]
Passing onward from Roundy with the enclosures L., our course at first being northerly and then N.W., we soon come in sight of
Dl
34 PRINCETOWN AND TWO BRIDGES DISTRICT.
Stanlake Farm (Ex. i), on the opposite side of the valley. Shortly after we reach the Devonport leat, where it runs down the side of a steep hill, the water forming one long rapid, to an aqueduct known locally as Iron Bridge, which carries it over the river. We follow it to that point, where it is easily crossed, and shall then make our way up the L. bank of the Mew to its confluence with the Hart Tor Brook, in the midst of an extensive stream work. We cross the brook, and then the Mew itself, and shortly afterwards reach one of the beauty spots of Dartmoor. This is Black Tor Pall, where the stream comes swiftly round a heathery bank to glide over moss-covered stones ; where dripping ferns margin the waters, and the mountain ash waves her branches gracefully above them.
In this charming little dell are two mining houses, one on each side of the stream, and both are worthy of examination. The one on the eastern bank has the doorway in a particularly perfect state. It is about 5 feet high, and rather over 3 feet wide. There is a groove in the jamb and the lintel for the door. On one side of it is a wheel pit, the wall of which is built of very large stones. The building measures 22 feet by 16. The ruin on the western bank is not so large, measuring only 1 6 feet by 12. In this one the chimney to the height of several feet was until recently intact. In August, 1907, a colt belonging to Mrs. Gill, of Stanlake, fell into it, and was imprisoned in the wide hearth for three days, when it was rescued by Mr. Pearse, of Kingsett, who noticed its dam grazing near by. This, however, could only be accomplished by destroying the chimney. Two stones having circular cavities in them are to be seen here ; these were probably mortars in which the tin ore was pounded. To reach this spot direct from Prince- town the rambler will proceed as in Ex. i, and soon after passing Double Waters will leave the road and make his way to Black Tor, which he will see on the common left. The Mew is just below the tor, and by following it downward for a short distance he will be led to the dell.
[On the further side of the stream work, in a S.E. direction, is a pound of an irregular shape on the slope of Raddick Hill. It contains several hut circles, and in one of these a fine vessel of rude hand-made pottery was found intact by Mr. Robert Burnard, when exploring the remains in 1895. It measured ioi inches in height, and was 10 inches in diameter at the top. Unfortunately, the bottom of the vessel went to pieces when it was taken out of the cooking hole in which it was discovered. In the other huts cooking stones, flint, and sherds were found. On Raddick Hill there are also several barrows. Should the rambler desire to visit Raddick Hill on his way from Roundy Farm, the best plan will be for him to cross the Devonport leat at Crazy Well Bridge, and then proceed north-westward with the leat on his L. To reach the hill direct from Princetown he can go either by way of Black Tor, or Hart Tor. From the former the pound bears about S.E., and from the latter about S.W., and is plainly visible from both points. It is on the hillside just above the Hart Tor Brook.]
Passing upward from the little dell we speedily reach Black Tor Ford, where we shall cross the stream. On the slope between the ford and Hart Tor, but much nearer the former, are two stone rows, one double and the other single. They each start from a cairn, the one at the commencement of the double row being placed within a stone
EXCURSION 2. The Newleycombe Valley. Older Bridge. 35
circle. They are here about 36 feet apart, but they do not run parallel, and that distance is doubled at their termination. The length of the double row is about 460 feet, and of the single one 260 feet. A tinners' working crosses these remains. The visitor will have no difficulty in finding them whether they be approached from the ford or from Hart Tor, if he follows a straight course from one object to the other.
Passing Hart Tor we regain the high road at the top of Devil's Bridge Hill, where we left it on setting out on our excursion ; or, if the rambler prefers it, he may make his way to the road by tracing the stream upward.
[ALTERNATIVE ROUTE from Crazy Well Pool to Princetown. Older Bridge — Siward's Cross — South Hisworthy Tor. Add 2 m.
If the remains in the valley of the Mew have already been visited, or if it is intended to visit them direct from Princetown, the rambler may prefer to return from Crazy Well Pool by another route than the one already sketched, as offering a change of scenery. Supposing this to be decided upon, we shall follow the track (T. 2) below the pool up the valley, our direction being easterly. When we have advanced about half a mile we shall pass a broken cross lying on the ground a short distance to the R. of the way. Only the head and arms, and the socket stone in which the shaft was fixed, now remain. [Crosses, Chap. X.] The view from this point, looking down the valley, is good. Among the tors Sheeps Tor and Down Tor are conspicuous, while Lether Tor, and its companion Sharp Tor, present a particularly fine appearance.
As we proceed along the track we shall not fail to be struck with the great amount of work the " old men " performed here. On every hand are evidences of their labours in search of tin, and that they were rewarded with success can hardly be doubted. That the valley was rich in the metal is shown by the fact that where they delved the more modern mining adventurer has also conducted operations. Less than half-a-mile from the broken cross we reach a ravine, called in the neighbourhood Drivage Bottom, near the head of which our track crosses the Devonport leat at Older Bridge. We are, however, not now on the line of the ancient track. That kept a little lower down the hill, and passed direct from the cross just noticed to Siward's, or Nun's, Cross, the interesting object already mentioned as a forest bondmark. (T. 1,2). It may be reached from Older Bridge by follow- ing the Devonport leat upward, and will be found very near where this enters an adit, or tunnel, 1,400 yards in length.
Before describing this cross it will perhaps be well to sketch the route to it from Princetown direct. Should the rambler not include it in the present excursion, he will pass up to the head of the ravine above Older Bridge, and pursuing a northerly course will soon come in sight of an enclosure. The wall of this he will keep on his R., and, passing South Hisworthy Tor (rather over i m. from the bridge), will reach the gate opening upon Ivybridge Lane. (T. 6). For the pathway inside the wall see post.]
[From Princetown to Siward's Cross. Leaving the town by way of Ivybridge Lane (T. 6), we soon gain the common, and ere we have proceeded very far shall notice a stile in the wall on the L. Here a
36 PRINCETOWN AND TWO BRIDGES DISTRICT.
path leads to South Hisworthy Tor and Peat Cot (Ex. 3), and we may avail ourselves of it if we will. It is carried along a bank raised to the level of the top of the wall, and will bring us direct to the tor named. As we proceed we notice the bond stones that mark the limits of the forest between this pile of rocks and North Hisworthy Tor, and which we were able to see when on our way to the latter. On the top of South Hisworthy, which is usually known in the vicinity as Look Out Tor, is an iron spike. From the tor the path to Peat Cot (Ex. 3)
Ter Hill.
PEAT COT FROM SOUTH HISWORTHY TOR.
runs down across the newtake L., but we continue on our way by the wall, and on reaching the corner of the enclosure, climb over it and regain the common. Those who do not care for the work of scaling had perhaps better make their way along the common outside the wall. At the corner referred to this wall must be left, and a course the same as that previously followed from the tor, that is to say about S.S.E., must be kept. Very soon we shall strike a reave which here marks the forest boundary, and by following this we shall be led directly to the cross, which is under 2\ miles from the Duchy Hotel. The track passed about 4- mile S. of the newtake corner leads to Peat Cot, and a branch passed further on to the White Works (Ex. 3). It comes up from Older Bridge, to which point we followed it in the previous ex- cursion.]
More than one of the Dartmoor crosses is referred to in documents relating to the forest and commons, but none receives so early a mention as Siward's Cross. It is named as a forest bondmark by the perambulators of 1240, who draw the line from " Elysburghe " (now Eylesbarrow) " et sic linealiter usque at crucem Sywardi," but that it was in existence long before that time there is good reason for believing. Standing on the line of a branch of the Abbots' Way (T. i), it may possibly have been set up by the monks of Tavistock as a mark to that path, and their house was founded before the close of the tenth century ; but it is quite likely that it is of rather later erection, and that its name is indicative of the period. There could never have been much traffic over this branch of the Abbots' Way, and during the earlier years of Tavistock Abbey it is questionable whether there was any. We may with more probability look upon the cross as having been erected in the time of the Confessor, when Siward, Earl of Northumber-
EXCURSION 2. SIWARD'S CROSS. 37
land, held the manors of Tavei and Wifleurde. The former was prob- ably the manor of Mary Tavy, in the parish of that name, and the latter has been thought to be Warne, a former manor in the same parish, but I am now inclined to regard it as being the manor of Willsworthy, in the parish of Peter Tavy. Worthy, a farm place, appears in the Devonshire Domesday as orda, orde, and urde, and while Wifleurde might become Willsworthy, it is difficult to see how the name could have changed its form to Warne. The manor of Wills- worthy includes a considerable portion of the moor (see L,ydford District), and abuts on the forest, which latter was also probably held by the earl. There are several instances of the royal hunting ground having been granted temporarily to a subject. It will be noticed that the earl's name is graven on that side of the cross which looks towards the forest. The letters are not particularly clear, but there is no uncertainty about them except that the second may be either an "i" or a "y."
The inscription on the western side of the cross is one that puzzled antiquaries for a long time, and it was not until my book on the crosses of the moor appeared (ist Ed., 1884) that this was understood. It had been variously read as Roolande, Bod Bond, and Booford, but after much careful examination of the letters, coupled with various refer- ences, I was able to decipher them. The inscription is BOC LOI1D, the ancient form of Buckland,* and the name was in all probability cut on the cross by the Monks of Buckland Abbey to mark the limits of their lands, which included the manor of Walkhampton, which extends as we have seen, to the boundary line of the forest. These lands were given by Amicia, Countess of Devon, to endow the abbey, and the gift was confirmed by her daughter, Isabella de Portibus. Immediately above the name a small incised cross will be observed.
This interesting relic is seven feet four inches in height, and measures two feet eight inches across the arms. It will be noticed that the shaft is broken, and is now held together by an iron clamp on each side. This damage resulted from the cross being intentionally thrown down by two lads when searching for cattle in this part of the moor. This was in 1846, but it was soon after repaired by a stone mason, named John Newcombe.
I have ventured to suggest elsewhere that the second name of the cross may be derived from the Cornu-Celtic word nans, a valley, dale, or ravine, standing, as it does at the head of the Swincombe valley. But it is quite possible that Nuns is a comparatively modern name, or corruption of one. The earliest record of it is in 1699, when it appears as Nannecross. A full account of this interesting object is given in the book to which reference has just been made. [Crosses, Chap. IX.]
Quite near to the cross is Nun's Cross Farm, enclosed about 1870 by John Hooper. Some years ago a modern dwelling-house took the place of the quaint little thatched cottage that he erected. Near by are the remains of Nun's Cross Mine.
(For route from Siward's Cross to Childe's Tomb, see Rx. 3).
To return to Princetown we follow the reave northward, with the farm enclosures on the R. When these latter are passed we continue
* Boc Land, i.e., Book Land, or land held bv charter.
3§ PRINCETOWN AND TWO BRIDGES DISTRICT.
on the same course, and at the distance of nearly a mile from the cross shall reach the corner of the newtake already noticed. The wall will then become our guide to South Hisworthy Tor, and to the moor gate at the end of Ivybridge Lane. (T. 6).
(This excursion may be extended to Childe's Tomb. See Ex. 3).
Ex. 3. Peat Cot— White Works— Fox Tor Mire— Childe's Tomb- Fox Tor — Mining Remains — Kists in Tor Royal Newtake. 7 m. from and to Princetown. With route from Siward's Cross to Childe's Tomb, 1 4- m. ; from Peat Cot to Princetown by the leat, 2 m. ; and direct route to the kists in Tor Royal Newtake.
Leaving Princetown by the road leading to Tor Royal we shall make our way to Peat Cot, as in T. 7, for the purpose of visiting the Swincombe valley, in which are several objects of interest. (On reach- ing the entrance to South Hisworthy House, R., which is just beyond Tor Gate, L., we shall notice a gate L. of it, and into this it will be worth while to turn for a few minutes. In the second field is a circle resembling the fringe of a turfy mound, 36 yards in diameter, and within this is another, across which is a short piece of wall cutting off a segment of it). Shortly before the road reaches Peat Cot we leave it and enter a field L., where a footpath runs to the hamlet.
Peat Cot may also be reached by way of Ivybridge Lane (T. 6, Ex. 2). At South Hisworthy Tor strike into the green path L., and descend to Castle Road. Vide supra.
From Two Bridges Peat Cot may best be reached by way of Round Hill Farm. The visitor will cross the Blackabrook at the steps S. of the farmhouse, and then strike S.W. over Tor Royal Newtake, leaving Tor Royal House R., to the corner of the enclosures in front of the latter. Thence as in R. 34. To go direct to Childe's Tomb from the steps a course S. by E. must be followed across the newtake, keeping Royal Hill R. This will bring the rambler to the hunting-gate mentioned post. From Prince Hall Lodge to the tomb, see R. 27.
Peat Cot, though not dating back to early times like Babeny, or Pizwell, or Hexworthy, is yet not devoid of interest. It shows what the nineteenth century settler has been able to accomplish on Dart- moor, and is a realization of a small part of Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt's dream. The mother of Peat Cot, Charlotte Worth, died in March, 1906, aged ninety-four, and in possession of all her faculties. She came of a long-lived stock ; not, however, natives of Dartmoor, but of Wembury, on the coast near the mouth of the Yealm. Mrs. Worth's father, Richard Edwards, died at White Works, aged ninety-nine ; his mother lived till she was over a hundred, as also did his brother. Peat Cot, which is fairly sheltered from the westerly winds that are so detri- mental to the agriculturists on the moor, consists of a few small farms. The Devonport leat runs quite close to it, and is carried round the hill on the side of which the settlement is situated.
Leaving this little group of Dartmoor dwellings we pass over the hill to the S.E., and make our way to White Works, which place is less than half- a- mile distant. Just before reaching the first of the cottages we again meet the Devonport leat as it comes round the hill from the E., and this we cross by a granite footbridge. White Works owes its
EXCURSION 3. WHITE WORKS. FOX TOR MIRE. 39
existence and its name to a mine. This has been closed for some years, hut the evidences of it are abundant around the few dwellings that now constitute the place. We remember when two large waterwheels were to be seen revolving here, and when the blacksmith's hammer was constantly heard ringing on the anvil. For some time the mine was worked by Mr. Moses Bawden, of Tavistock, a gentleman who has been connected with other similar operations on the moor of an exten- sive character. Those who now live at White Works look not to the bowels of the earth for their support, but to its surface. By breeding ponies and rearing other stock, and doing such labour as their hands may find for them to do, they contrive to get a living, and if the prize of wealth is not to be obtained, they have what is far more than its equivalent — health.
The cottages fir;?t reached are of recent erection, and take the place of older ones that had gone to decay. Those seen lower down are part of the original settlement, and with their thatched roofs present a picturesque appearance. Around them are the grey walls of a number of small enclosures.
The wide flat in front of White Works is Fox Tor Mire, and looking across this in a S.E. direction, a tor will be observed, the only one that is here in sight. This is Fox Tor, and below it, and a little to the L., a plain piece of ground will be seen, which is known as Sand Parks. Here, if the visitor looks carefully, he will notice a dark object. Its form cannot be distinguished at this distance, but it is the tomb to examine which is one of the objects of our present excursion.
[Before leaving White Works it will be well to mention two objects described post (in the route from Siward's Cross to Childe's Tomb), as the rambler may wish to take them on his way to Sand Parks, instead of proceeding by the more direct way hereafter sketched. The first of these is a cross on the further side of the mire, and the other a stone pillar near Wheal Anne Bottom. To reach the cross, which is about half-a-mile S.E. by S. of White Works, the visitor will pass over the upper end of the mire. This he may readily do, as the few swampy places in this part of it are easily avoided. He should not, however, attempt to cross it lower down. Though not so dangerous as formerly, there are yet many parts of it where the ground is treacherous, and it is as well to give it a wide berth. A branch of the Swincombe river, here only a small brook, runs through the middle of it. On the further side, i.e., the south, the ground rises, and some short distance up the slope is a new newtake wall. The cross is about midway between the edge of the mire and this wall. It is set up on a rock, and around it is much scattered granite. Wheal Anne Bottom is westward of the cross, and in full view ; a little stream courses through it, and joins the Swincombe river. By following this up for a short distance, and then striking R., the stone pillar will be seen.]
Making our way down by the lower cottages at White Works, and crossing the Strane, a small tributary of the Swincombe, we pass onward with the wall of Tor Royal Newtake I,. Ere long we reach Stream Hill Ford, close to the Wheal Emma weir, where we shall cross the Swincombe, and by directing our steps a little to the L. of Fox Tor shall reach Sand Parks. We shall find the object of which we are in
40 PRINCETOWN AND TWO BRIDGES DISTRICT.
quest about -]- m. northward of the tor. To be exact, jt is £ m. from the confluence of the two streams near the weir, S.S.E. by E. But unfor- tunately what the rambler will see is not the ancient monument spoken of by Risdon in the early part of the seventeenth century as one of Dartmoor's " three remarkable things," but a late nineteenth century erection that bears little resemblance to it. I have elsewhere given a full account of Childe's Tomb, and the legend of the luckless hunter; and have also related how I found the kist, and the stones that once surmounted it, * but it is perhaps necessary that my notices ' of this object should be briefly recapitulated here. Before doing so, however, we will sketch the route to the tomb from Si ward's Cross.
[Siward's Cross to Childe's Tomb, i£ miles. Passing down with Nun's Cross Farm on our L., we cross the little brook of the same name, and then the Plym road S. of Nun's Cross Ford. We pursue an easterly direction up the slope, keeping rather higher than a direct route would necessitate, in order to examine the stone pillar already referred to. Presently we shall reach a reave running along the side of the hill, and following this toward the E., shall soon arrive at the stone. This we shall find to be an ordinary shaft, about 5! feet in height. The head, which was discovered near by a few years ago, has part of a cross cut in relief upon it. Eastward is the little stream running down Wheal Anne Bottom, and when we reach this we must make for the newtake wall below. (The latter was erected about 1904 ; it runs on the line of an old reave). Reaching the newtake we strike about E., gradually leaving the wall on the R., and when nearly opposite White Works, shall come upon the cross already mentioned as being set up on a rock. There is much scattered granite near by, but if the directions here given be followed, the object will not be missed. It was discovered by I,ieut. M. Lennon Goldsmith, in 1903, after the latest edition of my book on the Dartmoor crosses had appeared. He found it lying on the ground near the rock in which the socket was cut, and afterwards had it re-erected, and secured in its place with cement. A portion of the shaft appears to be missing, but otherwise this ancient relic is in an excellent state of preservation. It faces E. and W. It is 41 inches high ; the bottom of the shaft is 43 inches in girth ; the arms measure 22 inches across ; and the head rises 7 inches above the shaft. Near the cross is a kistvaen within a circle of stones.
The discovery of this cross adds another to the line of those objects extending from Buckland Abbey across the forest (T. 2), and, as Lieut. Goldsmith observed when acquainting me with his find, tends to confirm my contention that they marked an old track. [Crosses, Chap. X.] Since this cross was discovered another on the same line has come to light ; it is described further on (Ex. 39).
Continuing on our way eastward to Sand Parks, with the newtake wall R., we soon reach the tomb, which is distant only a little over £ m. from the cross.]
The story of Childe, the hunter, which I have frequently heard in the forest, was first related by Risdon nearly three hundred years ago.
* Ancient Stone Crosses of Dartmoor. Chap. X. Folk Rhymes of Devon, p. 4.
EXCURSION 3. CHILDE'S TOMB. 41
It is to the effect that one Childe, of Plymstock, " a man of fair possess- ions," being overtaken by a snowstorm when hunting on Dartmoor, slew his horse and disembowelled him, hoping to preserve himself by seeking shelter in the carcase. But he was there frozen to death, and having, as our old topographer states, " ordained, by his will, that wheresoever he should happen to be buried, to that church his lands should belong," he was carried by Tavistock men to the Abbey Church for interment. They were, however, able to accomplish this only by a stratagem. The people of Plymstock having learnt what was taking place, assembled at the bridge over the Tavy, with the intention of preventing the Tavistock men taking the body to the Abbey. But the latter, hearing of this, threw a slight bridge across the river, and carrying over their prize in triumph, became the possessors of Childe' s lands. The people of Plymstock "were deceived," says Risdon, " by a guile " ; "in memory whereof the bridge beareth the name of Guilebridge to this day." Our author also tells us that Childe's Tomb was to be seen on the moor in his time, though he does not say in what part of it, and that it once bore the following lines :
" They fyrste that fyndes and brings rnee to my grave,
The priorie of Plimstoke they shall have."*
This story is probably a version of some early legend. Childe does not seem to have been a proper name, though some writers not only apparently think it was, but have gone so far as to furnish the supposed hunter with another — indeed, he has had no less than three Christian names given to him, Amyas, John, and Oswald. In all probability it was the Saxon Cild, a common appellation. Further, nothing is known of any Priory of Plymstock, and this perhaps accounts for the word " lands " being substituted for " priorie " in later versions of the couplet. Tavistock Abbey possessed the manor of Plymstock, but it belonged to it at the time of the Domesday Survey. That Guile Bridge was simply the Guild Bridge, or bridge that led to the Guildhall of Tavistock, is much more likely to be the case than that it obtained its name in the manner the tradition states. It is difficult also to understand how we find the hunter's grave in the forest, when the story says he was buried at Tavistock. It is true that the body of a stranger found on the moor might have been interred on the spot, and afterwards exhumed on his identity being discovered, but that could hardly have happened at so late a period as the end of the tenth century, when Tavistock Abbey was founded. The grave, consisting of a kist within a stone circle, is precisely sitniliar in plan to those which we know to belong to pagan times, and there can be little doubt is very much older than that religious house, though there are indica- tions that the kist itself is not of such great antiquity as those generally seen on the moor. That a Christian monument should have been erected upon it is not inexplicable, since we know that the cross was frequently planted in similar situations in early times. Menhirs have been fashioned into the symbol of that faith, or have had it graven upon them, as we shall see in places on the borders of the moor. The story of Childe the Hunter must be regarded as a myth, but at the same time there is no doubt that, like most legends, there is an element of truth underlying it.
* Risdon's Survey of Devon, p. 223. Edit. 1811.
42 PRINCETOWN AND TWO BRIDGES DISTRICT.
Although Risdon does not state in what part of the moor Childe was said to have been buried, forest tradition has always pointed to- the tomb under Pox Tor as that of the unfortunate lord of Plymstock. This tomb remained intact until about 1812, when it was destroyed by a Mr. Windeatt, who enclosed Fox Tor Farm, and built the house, the ruins of which will be seen on the slope eastward. It consisted of a calvary of three stages, surmounted by a large worked stone in which a cross was fixed. In the first edition of Carrington's poem Dart- moor (1826), the tomb is figured, but as this was probably drawn from memory, it is not a true representation of it in every particular, though no doubt correct in its main features. A note to the poem states that Mr. Windeatt removed some of the stones from the tomb, and used them for building purposes and for door steps. More than half a century after this was written I discovered the whole of the stones with the exception of three, but not in the place the note would seen to indicate.
When I was engaged in my investigations of the Dartmoor crosses in the seventies, Childe's Tomb naturally attracted my attention. But its exact site appeared to be then unknown, and it was not without some trouble that I discovered it. I was, however, aided in my search by some information obtained from Richard Eden, a moorman with whom I was well acquainted, and who was born at Fox Tor Farm. All that was then to be seen was a small mound, and some half buried stones. An account of my exploration is given in my book on the crosses, and it is therefore only necessary to state that I discovered the greater part of the missing stones. Some of these yet form a bridge over the brook below the ruined farmhouse. With the " restoration " I had nothing to do, beyond raising my voice against the manner in which it was carried out. The present cross and stone in which it is fixed were cut at Home, in 1885.
Mining operations near Fox Tor were evidently of an extensive character. Fox Tor Gert, as the deep gully running up to the tor is named, has been worked for tin, as also has the branch of the Swin- combe that runs down in front of the farmhouse, and which rises not far from Little Aune. (Ex. 43). The visitor to Childe's Tomb will probably wish to ascend Fox Tor, and here he will see the gert on the eastern slope of the hill, and also behind, or to the S. of the tor.
He will likewise be able to examine an old mining house, which is not wanting in interest. It will be found at the end of Black L,ane (T. 61), where that old path runs into the gert, and S. of the tor. It stands on the W. side of the way, which here passes through a gully, and consists of the walls of a building, 23^ feet by 14 feet on the outside. The doorway, as is usual in these houses, is near one corner, and the fireplace appears to have been at the opposite end.
Adjoining the southern wall of the farm enclosures, and near the bank of the Swincombe branch that flows in front of it, are the remains of another mining house, about the same width but a little longer than the one just noticed. It is built against a bank, a plan often followed by the constructors of these huts on the moor. Most of the wall that formed the western end has disappeared.
The path known as Sandy Way (T. 56), runs from Sand Parks up the hollow to the E.S.E., down which the stream comes. This it leaves on the right in ascending and goes on to Aune Head, where it becomes a plainly-marked track.
EXCURSION 3. KISTVAENS. THE CROCK OF GOLD. -
Fox Tor farmhouse presents nothing that will detain the visitor, unless it be that he desires to look more closely upon the building with which so many of the incidents of Eden Phillpotts' novel, The American Prisoner, are associated. If such be the case he may amuse himself for half-an-hour in searching for Maurice Malherb's wine cellar, but we fear the result will be disappointing.
Passing down to the ford on the Swincombe we again cross that stream, but instead of returning te White Works shall make for a hunting gate in the wall of Tor Royal Newtake, which we see near by. Our first point will then be a tumulus about i m. N.N.W., and which will come in sight as we mount the slope. On our R. are some other enclosures near the river, one of which is known by the name of Joan Ford's Newtake, in which are three small upright stones standing in a row.
A few hundred yards in a north-easterly direction from the tumulus we shall come upon a ruined kistvaen, close to the source of a rivulet ; and a little further on, but in a more northerly direction, are two others, also dilapidated. Here we are near the summit of Royal Hill, the highest point in the newtake, and if we leave this a little to the L., and proceed in a north-westerly direction for about \ m. beyond it we shall reach the kistvaen known as the Crock of Gold. It is situated close beside the track leading from Princetown to Hexworthy (T. 8), and is a well preserved kist, with some of the stones that once encircled it yet remaining. The track we shall now follow W. to Bull Park, where, passing through a gate, we soon reach the entrance to Tor Royal, the residence of Mr. A. E. Barrington, the High Bailiff of Dartmoor. Passing upward we bend R., and speedity find ourselves at Princetown.
[A pleasant way of returning from Peat Cot is by the Devonport leat. The best plan is to cross it at the bridge at the little settlement, and passing for a short distance over the newtake, strike it again above the bend. There is a path on the bank which the rambler may follow. Just before reaching Tor Royal the woods are passed, and when the trees are in leaf the contrast between the slope on which they grow and the bare moor around it is very striking. A short distance beyond Tor Royal the road from Bull Park (supra) is reached.]
[The kistvaens in Tor Royal Newtake may be visited from Prince- town direct by following the Hexworthy track (T. 8) to the Crock of Gold, and then crossing over Royal Hill to the others. This will be the reverse of the latter part of the homeward route from Childe's Tomb just sketched. The walk may be extended to White Works, and the return made by way of Peat Cot and the leat.]
Ex. 4. — The Ockery — Antiquities on Round Hill Farm — Prince Hall — Swincombe — Crock of Gold — Bull Park. About 9 m. from and to Princetown. WITH ALTERNATIVE RETURN ROUTES from Swincombe, via White Works or Tor Royal Newtake, and from Prince Hall, via Moorlands and Bachelor's Hall.
From Princetown our way takes us along the Two Bridges road past New London. This is the name given to the four blocks of dwell- ings on the R., and considered to be appropriate since they were
44 PRINCETOWN AND TWO BRIDGES DISTRICT.
erected under the superintendence of a London man ; much of the material of which they are constructed was brought from there, and being several storeys in height they much more resemble town houses in plan than they do those usually seen on Dartmoor. Beyond them
FROM MAIN ROAD NEAR NEW LONDON.
we descend the hill to the Ockery, having Arrow Head Field on our L., so called in consequence of the finding there of some flint implements. We cross the Blackabrook by a modern bridge, formerly known as Trena Bridge, and turn R. On the R. bank of the stream is the Ockery, the approach to it being by means of a clapper. Though not of great size this is a good example of these structures, and consists of buttresses with centre pier, but the addition of parapets to some extent destroys its primitive appearance. The Ockery was formerly a very picturesque building, having an exterior gallery ; renovation has altered it, but has not altogether destroyed its old-time air.
Entering Lower Watern Newtake by a gate near the bridge, we pass down by the Blackabrook, and noticing some low tumuli near the bank as we proceed, shall shortly reach the wall of one of the enclosures belonging to Round Hill Farm. On the further side of this, and quite near to the stream, is a group of kistvaens, and less than 200 yards from these in a N.E. direction are the remains of two others, placed side by side. Further on in the same direction, and on the slope of Round Hill where it declines towards the Dart and the lower part of the Blackabrook, are other examples of kists, as well as tumuli and hut circles. Having examined these we shall turn westward, and leaving Round Hill Farm to the L., shall reach the track by which it is approached from the Two Bridges road. This we follow N. to Round Hill Cottage, once the home of Jonas Coaker, locally renowned as the Dartmoor poet, where we regain the road we left at the Ockery, within a short distance of Two Bridges.
In Lower Watern Newtake the Princetown and Hexworthy Races have been held. These consist of races for ponies, galloways, and horses.
[As the Round Hill antiquities are situated in enclosed land, it will be well for the visitor to obtain permission at the farm to examine
EXCURSION 4. PRINCE HALL. 45
them. From Two Bridges they are, of course, reached by way of Round Hill Cottage.]
On leaving Two Bridges we pass up the hill behind the hotel. On the brow the road forks, the L. branch running to Moreton and the R. to Ashburton. We follow the latter, with Muddy Lakes New- take on our L., and during our progress towards Prince Hall Lodge shall look upon several fine tors. Across the newtake, and at no great distance from us, is Crockern Tor (See post.] To the R. of this, and standing up boldly on a lofty ridge, is " Longaford's strange mitre of earth and stone,"* and beyond it Higher and Lower White Tors. In front is Bellaford Tor, a prominent object in every view in this part of the moor. Away to the R. we see the high land of the south quarter of the forest rising like a huge barrier from the Swincombe valley, and extending from Cater's Beam, L., to Hand Hill and Kylesbarrow, R. If we look carefully at it we may discern a pile of rocks, not defined against the sky, but rising from its dusky side. This is Fox Tor, already noticed [Ex. 3], which, like Crockern Tor, is chiefly interesting on account of its associations, in this instance only legendary.
At the distance of about i m. from the fork of the roads we arrive at Prince Hall Lodge, R., and passing through the gate make our way along the road that leads to the house (T. 10). This is bordered with trees, but they have bowed before the prevailing westerly winds. Stunted in growth they tell but too plainly that it is only in the sheltered spots on the moor that planting can be undertaken with any success.
Prince Hall was one of the ancient tenements of the forest [see Ancient Tenement in the Terms section], and was known by the name it at present bears several centuries ago, being mentioned as Prynshall in a forester's account of the time of Henry VIII., while in a document of a later date it appears as Prynce Hall. In 1702 it was in the possession of William Gidley, and in the last quarter of the eighteenth century was held by a Mr. Gullet, one of those who about that time entertained hopes that the forest might be profitably cultivated. From him it passed to Judge Buller, and was afterwards held by Mr. G. W. Fowler, whose operations on the farm were on a very large scale. [Dev. Alps, Chap. 3.] But they proved unsuccessful, except in one respect ; he certainly showed that such a style of farming as he adopted was not suited to Dartmoor. Some of the older people still speak of him, and will tell you that there was one thing Mr. Fowler deserved special praise for : he grew the largest turnips ever seen on the moor. " Proper gert benders, zure 'nuff — but most o' mun was holla."
The road will conduct us by the side of the house, which is large, and, for the moor, of imposing appearance, and down the lawn in front of it to Prince Hall Bridge, which spans the West Dart. Here the scene is of a very attractive character, particularly in the summer, when the trees are in leaf, and the hedgerow that borders the little lane that leads up from the bridge on the southern bank of the river is bright with young ferns and wild flowers. Near the top of the ascent the lane turns R. to Moorlands, a farm close by, but our way will be as
* The River. Book I., Chap. XIII.
46 PRINCETOWN AND TWO BRIDGES DISTRICT.
in T. 10. Crossing the little Rue Lake, which falls into the Dart below Cherry Brook Foot, we enter Swincombe Newtake, and soon reach the gate at Swincombe Farmhouse. This building formed one of Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt's lodges, and appears to have been erected on land long enclosed. In a list of the newtakes in the forest made over two hundred years ago there are three enclosures named respectively Swancombe Head, Swancombe, and Swancombe Ford.
A short lane leads to Swincombe Ford, over the stream of that name, the farmhouse being on the R. as we proceed, and a cottage on the L. The latter was the abode for many years of John Bishop, a true specimen of the old style of Dartmoor man. He retained his primitive manners to the last, insisting on using a flint and steel in place of matches, among other things, and " couldn' abide any new fashioned notions." The footbridge at the ford is usually known as the Fairy Bridge.
We shall return to Princetown by the track running between that place and Hexworthy (T. 8), and for this purpose shall either retrace our steps to the gate of the newtake, and then turn L. behind Swin- combe farmhouse, or pass in front of it. Though we now pass over the track the reverse way of that in which it has been described, it will be followed without difficulty, and we shall soon be led to the gate opening upon Tor Royal Newtake, across which the green path is well denned. About midway we shall pass the kistvaen called the Crock of Gold, noticed in Ex. 3, from which point we make our way to Bull Park, and thence by the road to Princetown.
[To return by way of the Swincombe Valley, noticed in the Hex- worthy District, will be found very interesting. The visitor will cross the stream by the footbridge, and follow it up to the point where it receives the tributary that comes down from under Fox Tor farmhouse, whence he may make his way to Princetown either by the White Works or by Tor Royal Newtake (Ex. 3). The walk may be shortened by returning direct to Princetown from Prince Hall Bridge. The visitor will follow the postman's path from Moorlands (T. 9), which will lead him across the northern side of Tor Royal Newtake, where he will pass over the Cholake and the Lanson Brook, the former a tribu- tary of the West Dart and the latter falling into the Blackabrook. The path will bring him to Batcheror's Hall, whence the road will lead him past New London, R., to the highway on the outskirts of Prince- town. The view from Bachelor's Hill Newtake, above New London, is very fine. It embraces Mis Tor, Maiden Hill, Cowsic Head, Bear Down, Row Tor, Meripit Hill, Hameldon, the valley of the Dart, Holne Moor, and many other prominent objects.]
EXCURSION 5. WISTMAN'S WOOD. 47
Ex. 5. Wistman's Wood — Foxholes — Crow Tor — Row Tor — Bear Down Man — Antiquities on Conies Down — The Cowsic Valley. 8^- m. from and to Two Bridges. FROM THE Cowsic TO PRINCETOWN : Black Dunghill — The Blackabrook — Rundle Stone. IF To BEAR DOWN MAN BY WAY OF Crockern Tor — Littaford Tors — Longaford Tor — The White Tors — Brown's House, 9 m. IF BY WAY OF Bear Down Clapper — Bear Down Tors — Lydford Tor, j\ m. IF FROM AND TO PRINCETOWN (re- turning by Black Dunghill) add ij- m.
For Cut Hill see Ex. n.
From the southern edge of the great fen hereafter described as covering so much of the N. quarter of the forest, two lofty ridges, each about i m. in width, extend for about 3 m. in a southerly direction , and terminate at Two Bridges. These ridges, which are crowned with tors, forming prominent objects when viewed from the road at Prince- town, are separated by the valley of the West Dart. Along the foot of the Western ridge runs the Cowsic, the other being bounded on the east for some distance by the Cherry Brook. The three streams here flow southward, their courses being roughly parallel. The greater part of the western ridge and the whole of the eastern, are now enclosed within newtake walls. Those who, some century ago, took in these large tracks of land — " improvers " they delighted to call themselves — under grant from the Duchy, were careful to select the best parts of the forest, and pushed their walls out to the verge of the fen, thus leaving those who possessed an undoubted right to the pasturage of the moor, only the boggy parts of it. In this excursion the rambler will see much enclosed moorland, and will be able to form some idea of what Dartmoor would have been reduced to had those, of whom Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt was the chief pioneer, been permitted to realize their idle dreams.
In the valley of the West Dart, about ij m. above Two Bridges, is situated one of the curiosities of Dartmoor. This is Wistman's Wood, and consists of three small groves of dwarf oaks growing from the midst of a clatter, and extending for about -I- m. along the L. bank of the river. Several suggestions as to the derivation of the name have been made, one being that it is a corruption of the Celtic words uisg maen coed, signifying the stony wood by the water, but there is also reason for believing the word to be derived from wealas, meaning foreigners, a term applied by the Saxons to all not of their race. At all events, the older people living on the moor used to speak of this oak grove as Welshman's Wood, and it seems not at all improbable that Wistman is merely a corruption of this. Wealasman's Wood would thus be the wood of the Celts, regarded as foreigners by the Saxon settlers. [Gems, Chap. I.]
The path from Two Bridges to the wood lies through the enclosures
48 PRINCETOWN AND TWO BRIDGES DISTRICT.
of Crockern Farm, at one time known as Board'n House, and these are entered at a gate on the L. in ascending the hill immediately behind the hotel (T. n.)* No directions are needed, as the path is followed through the enclosures beyond which the wood is seen. The oaks grow quite near to the Dart amongst the rocks forming the clatter, and are so dwarfed that their boughs will often be seen resting upon the blocks of granite. The site of the wood, a stone-covered slope, seems altogether unsuited to the growth of trees, but in reality it is to the presence of the boulders that the oaks owe their preservation. These have not only sheltered them, but have probably prevented their being cut down for fuel by the tinners. Trunks and boughs are thickly coated with moss, and consequently appear much larger than they really are. In 1886 the central grove took fire, by what means was never satis- factorily explained, and much damage was done. Time has, however, healed the wound the flames inflicted.
When the belief was held that the Druids once turned Dartmoor into one wide temple, Wistman's Wood was regarded as being a spot they particularly patronised ; indeed, it was said to have obtained its name from them, this meaning neither more nor less than the wood of the wise men. The Druids, by the way, showed their wisdom by cutting mistletoe (though where they found it on Dartmoor it is rather difficult to say) and by making stones rock, end other similarly useful acts. The valley, with its ruined hut dwellings, its oak groves, and the Dart perhaps as its oracle, was presumably regarded as another Dodona. But the Druids have gone now, and left only snakes and foxes to occupy the wood. As a holt for the latter it probably serves a much more popular purpose than when it was given over to the white-jjearded priests. Many a fox has been bolted there, and one game little terrier, who often showed his prowess among the moss- covered rocks, now lies beneath one of its aged trees. This is Jumbo, which belonged to Mr. Sam Adams, a former Master of the Lamerton Hounds. One day in April, 1 904, after being as active as ever in the field, the game little animal died suddenly, and was buried in the wood.
To reach the higher end of the wood it will be better that we keep on its upper side, that is to say, along its eastern verge. About 50 paces above the central grove is a large triangular-shaped stone in the midst of the clatter, on which is an inscription setting forth that a tree was cut down on this spot in 1866 by Mr. Wentworth Buller. A section of the trunk is now in the Albert Memorial Museum at Exeter.
About a third of a mile above the higher oak grove, which is due W. of Longaford Tor, is Wistman's Wood Ford on the Dart, and to this we shall now direct our steps, f On our way we pass a small deserted dwelling, constructed of wood, once the abode of a warrener, and in which readers of the River will recognise the home of Nicholas Edgecombe. In full view as we descend towards the stream is Crow
* The public right of way, as already stated (T. n), is now disputed. This is one of the results of the work of the forest " im- provers." Board'n is equivalent to wooden.
t Here the rambler passes over what was formerly Wistman's Warren. If he cannot cross the river at the ford he wifl perhaps be able to do so at the weir where the Devonport leat is taken from it.
50 PRINCETOWN AND TWO BRIDGES DISTRICT.
Tor, placed on the southern extremity of the hill peninsulated by its two branches. (Crow rhymes '.with now. See View from North Hisworthy). The ford is situated about 200 yards below the con- fluence, and it was here that the Lich Path (T. 18) crossed the Dart.
The side of the valley in which Wistman's Wood is situated is included within Longaford Newtake, the wall of which is carried along the L. bank of the Dart. We shall find ourselves in Bear Down Newtake, after having crossed the river at, or near, the ford, which, unless it be in flood, is not difficult. Passing up the R. bank we soon reach the smaller branch of the Dart alreadv referred to
FROM ABOVE WISTMAN'S WOOD.
and which is immediately without the northern wall of the last- named enclosure. This stream flows down from a hollow called Dart Hole, and is sometimes known as the Foxholes Water, and also as Methern Brook. It forms the boundary between the east and west quarters of the forest, the line running from Horse Hole southward to Dart Hole, and thence down to the West Dart. (See Quarters in the Terms section). Just above the confluence the northern wall of Longaford Newtake runs off in a direction E. by N., crossing the Dart and passing up the hill to Higher White Tor. At the point where this wall leaves the little stream another will be seen running up the hill in a direction N. by E. through a clatter, known as Foxholes. This we follow up the slope to Crow Tor, about | m. distant, not far beyond which it terminates. Many years ago I learnt from one whose memory carried him far back into the nineteenth century, that it was intended to take in more land here from the forest, the example of those who had enclosed Longaford and Bear Down, and the other large tracts in the vicinity, presumably inciting others to follow in their steps. Much of the wall was built, but fortunately it was never completed. The fragment at Crow Tor forms a part of it, and another, and larger part, is to be seen near Row Tor, whence it runs down to the Dart, and up the hill in a N. easterly direction, for about f- m., to a point not far from Cherry Brook Head, and then turns southward, and is carried for some little distance down by the side of that stream. This part of the enclosure is known as Wild Banks Newtake.
Crow Tor we shall find to consist of several lumps of rock, one of which, placed exactly on the brow of the hill where the latter drops
EXCURSION 5. ROUTE TO ROW TOR. 51
rather suddenly to the streams, is a conspicuous object from some parts of the lower valley.
Less than £ m. almost due N. from Crow Tor is Row Tor, to which, as it affords a good view of the moor, the rambler up this valley will no doubt desire to make his way. The ground is good, and the rise gradual, the tor being only about 150 feet higher than Crow Tor. It is, how- ever, of considerable elevation, being no less than 1,793 feet, and is seen standing up boldly from the surrounding moor from the street at Princetown. The tor gives name to that part of the forest extending a little to the N. of it, and a considerable distance to the E. This is known as Rowtor, and it abuts on Broad Down, about i\ m. in the latter direction. At that end of it is Rowtor Gate, hereafter mentioned (T. 1 8, 78), and to a miry spot near this, and a small stream issuing from it, have been given the name of Rowtor Marsh, and Rowtor Brook, though I have not heard them so spoken of by the moormen. JThe latter is sometimes called Middle Brook.
The name of the tor became attached to this area in consequence of the latter forming what was probably to have been called Rowtor Farm, and of which Wild Banks Hill would have constituted a part. Rowtor Gate was the approach to it from the Post Bridge district. A ruined dwelling (see post) stands within this uncompleted enclosure, and is now known as Brown's House.
Before proceeding to Bear Down Man from Row Tor we shall sketch the route to the latter by way of the ridge between the West Dart and the Cherry Brook. This will lead us first to Crockern Tor, which is reached from the hotel at Two Bridges by following the Moreton road for about 4- m. to Parson's Cottage, close to which a gate gives access to the newtake in which the tor is situated. The cottage, which is now in ruins, was built in the early part of the nineteenth century by the Rev. J . H. Mason, Vicar of Widecoinbe, who held land here under a grant from the Duchy. It is also known as Billy Clack's Cottage, having once been in the occupation of the Rev. William Clack, a sporting parson, of Moretonhampstead.
Crockern Tor will be seen on the brow of the hill behind the cottage, from which it is distant only about 300 yards. In itself it presents nothing remarkable, consisting only of a small group of rocks, and attaining an elevation of no more than 1,295 feet. But it is one of those objects to which interest is lent by its historic associations. Without these it would fail to appeal to the beholder, but viewed in its connection with the Stannaries it at once claims attention. We shall, however, defer our notice of it until we have finished our excur- sions in this district, as it will be more convenient to deal with it separately.
Passing Crockern Tor and proceeding along the ridge in a direction a little W. of N., with the wall on our R., we shall, at the distance of about £ m., reach Longaford Newtake, just within which are the three groups of rocks known as the Littaford Tors, of which mention is elsewhere made. (T. 18). On a map drawn from a survey made at the beginning of the last century, and which was spoken of soon after its publication as being defective in names, these groups of rocks are marked as Little Bee Tor, although the name as we have it to-day was that by which they were then called on the moor. In a book published in 1832 this name occurs, only it is there rendered Littleford.
52 PRINCETOWN AND TWO BRIDGES DISTRICT.
Prom this it seems probable that the error on the map occurred in the transcription of the name, and other mistakes on it may perhaps be explained in the same way ; or they may in some instances be due to a wrong reading of his copy by the engraver. This was very likely the case with regard to Beetor Cross (R. 4), which is shown on the map in question as Sector Cross. But though these errors are to be deplored, they have nevertheless served one useful purpose. They have been re-produced in more than one book dealing with the moor, and thus have shown the Dartmoor student that their writers have not gathered their information on the spot, but have adopted the much easier plan so delightfully described by Captain Marryat in his article on writing a book of travels.
Passing the northernmost of the Littaford Tors, we make our way to Longaford Tor, less than £ m. distant, with the Dart valley on our L., and the great dun slope that stretches away to the Cherry Brook on our R. The rambler will do well to ascend Longaford, which attains an elevation of 1,595 feet, for the view from it is exceedingly fine. The pile is rather different in character from most of the tors on the moor, consisting not of rocks alone, but of rocks and turf, and is thus very easy of ascent. It is somewhat of a conical form, and a conspicuous object in all those parts of the moor centring round what we have called the Great Central Depression. (See Situation and Extent, etc.) From Cut Hill it at once arrests the attention of the beholder who looks down upon the valley of the West Dart by its striking form, though it is 400 feet lower than that eminence. Cut Hill is seen rising against the sky in a direction about N.N.W. (Ex. ii).
The next pile on this ridge is Higher White Tor, or Whitten Tor, as it is usually called, and which, like Longaford, is also a conspicuous object. It is of greater elevation than that tor, being placed on the highest part of the ridge, which is here 1,712 feet high. Its distance from Longaford is about the same as the distance of that tor from the nearest of the Littaford group. To this pile we make our way, and thence to a gate in the northern wall of the newtake, a short distance due N. of which is Lower White Tor.
The masses of rock so named are placed upon the brow of a steep declivity forming the western side of Hollowcombe Bottom. The tor is interesting as being the point where a reave of stone and turf, which may be traced for some distance eastward, has its termination. This is noticed in the Excursions in the Post Bridge District. (Ex. 46).
Leaving Lower White Tor we turn our steps in a north-westerly direction, or, to be more precise, N.W. by N., and crossing a slight depression in the side of the hill shall reach Brown's House, which is about •§• m. distant. The situation of this ruined dwelling is such as would certainly satisf}' the greatest lover of solitude. From what I have been able to gather it never became what its builder intended it to be. As we have already seen, the work of enclosing the land around it was never completed, and consequently, instead of becoming the home of a settler, it was suffered to fall to decay.
Across the valley of the Dart, and in full view, is Row Tor, and to this we now make our way direct. Should the river prevent the visitor striking a beeline it must be followed upward for a short distance, when a means of crossing it by the natural stepping-stones will no
EXCURSION 5. BEAR DOWN MAN. 53
doubt present itself. The distance from Brown's House to the tor is rather over 4- m.
We have already stated that Row Tor is a prominent object in , the view from several points in this part of the moor. It does not greatly exceed in elevation the stretches of heath surrounding it, except on one side where the ground drops some 200 feet to the Dart, but the form of the hill renders it conspicuous. The rocks of the tor are disposed in a form approaching that of an oval, and enclose a small area. Almost due W. of the tor, and less than 4- m. from it, are the springs of Summer Brook, a feeder of the Dart, which pursues a course directly opposite to that of the river into which it falls. Just below its source, and near its L. bank, is the bottom known as Horse Hole, where is the junction of the north, west, and east quarters of the forest, as hereafter mentioned. (See Quarters in Terms section). This is about 4; m. N. W. of Row Tor. A short distance to the N. of it is Summer Hill, on which are some rocks known as Flat Tor, but they present nothing remarkable. Still further N. is West Dart Head, distant, if the line via Crow Tor be followed, about 2 m. from the ford above Wistman's Wood, or 4 m. from Two Bridges.
Bear Down Man is a little over 4; m. from Row Tor in a south- westerly direction. Our way thither will lead us across a part of Methern Hill with Dart Hole on our left. The menhir is quite close to Devil's Tor, which does not consist of piles of granite, but merely of flat rocks scattered about the hill. Although it bears a name sug- gestive of some tradition I have never been able to gather any in connection with it. It was the opinion of one moorman whom I consulted that the pillar represented the Devil, and that the tor, which can hardly be truly regarded as such, " was plenty good enough vur he."
Man is, of course, the Celtic maen, stone, and the word is found so corrupted in all parts of the country. The pillar is nearly 1 1 feet high, and about 8 feet in girth.
Horse Hole is about \ m. N.N.E. of Bear Down Man, and Cowsic Head 4- m. N.N.W. The course of the Cowsic is at first almost due S., and the Walkham, a little over i m. to the W., runs parallel to it. Between the springs of the Cowsic and Spriddle Lake, W., is Maiden Hill, 1,774 feet, and southward of this is Conies Down, which is pro- bably the Condyshull of a fourteenth century document. The Lich Path (T. 1 8) runs along the southern verge of this. Rather over 4 m. due N. of Cowsic Head are the upper waters of the Tavy, and between the two the ground is very heavy, this being the southern edge of the great fen that extends northward to Ockment Hill.
The rain gauges seen in this part of the moor are in connection with the Devonport Water Supply.
[Should the visitor desire to make his way direct to Bear Down Man from the ford on the Dart above Wistman's Wood, he will follow the Methern Brook for about J- m., keeping it on his R. Then, leaving it, he will pursue the same course, i.e., N.W., up the hill, and will soon reach his objective.]
On leaving Bear Down Man we shall strike S.W. to the Cowsic, which we cross, and make our way down the stream with Conies Down Tor (T. 1 8) on our R. Just below this is a group of hut circles, and J of a mile to the W. a double stone row, but the stones of the latter
54 PRINCETOWN AND TWO BRIDGES DISTRICT.
are not very large. It is close to the L/ich Path, and extends for a distance of about 350 feet, running nearly N. and S. Not far from the • southern end of it are what appear to be the remains of a small cairn, probably despoiled by the builders of the Bear Down enclosures, which are not far off. A little way below the hut circles is Travellers' Ford, where the Lich Path (T. 18) crosses the Cowsic, and if, on reaching this old track, we follow it for a short distance towards the W., we shall observe the row on the R., or northern, side of it.
Continuing on our way down the stream we soon arrive at Cowsic Fork, which is just below the ford. The branch which comes from the N.W. rises close to the Lich Path, and is sometimes known as the Conies' Down Water. The Cowsic here runs through a deep hollow, called Broad Hole, where, in the year 1831, the remains of an oak were discovered in the bank. When dug out the tree was found to consist of the trunk, with a part of the root and a branch, and was thought to be larger than any of those in Wistman's Wood. In Broad Hole is Bear Down Newtake Corner, where the northern wall joins the western one. The former runs up the hill eastward, and passing close to Lydford Tor is carried to the West Dart, which it reaches near the confluence under Crow Tor, as we have already seen. A few hundred yards below the corner the western wall leaves the eastern for the western bank of the stream, so as to include this part of the Cowsic within the Bear Down enclosures. Passing down through Broad Hole we soon after cross a small tributary rivulet, and find our- selves on the eastern edge of Holming Beam, or, as the name is now often rendered, Omen Beam. This comprehends that part of the moor lying between the Cowsic and the upper waters of the Blackabrook. A considerable portion of it is now included in that part of the prison enclosures to which the name of the New Forest has been given. Holm- ing Beam is noted for the abundance of its whortleberry plants, and has long been a favourite place with the gatherers of that fruit. Old mine workings exist here, as the name would indicate, and much peat was formerly cut near the Blackabrook. About i in. below the Bear Down Newtake Corner the wall is carried to the eastern bank of the Cowsic, and very near to this point the Devonport leat crosses that stream. Making our way southward with the leat and the river on our L., and the prison enclosures on our R., we reach the Tavistock road at a point \ m. W. of Two Bridges, and exactly 2 m. from Travellers' Ford.
This excursion will be found particularly interesting, and will enable the visitor to gain a good idea of the upper valley of the West Dart as well as of the Cowsic valley. To reach Bear Down Man by way of the latter it will, of course, only be necessary to follow the stream upward, and cross it at, or above, Travellers' Ford.
[If our destination be Princetown we leave the Cowsic just where the Bear Down wall is brought across it, near the lower ned of Broad Hole, and climbing the steep on the R., make our way to Black Dung- hill, the summit of which (1,615 feet) is a little over | m. distant, in a direction S.W. by W. A quarter mile beyond this we reach a track (T. 12), and this we follow southward with the Blackabrook on our R. Soon we arrive at the wall of the New Forest Prison enclosures, and entering them shall cross the stream. Still following the track we shall pass Fitz's Well (Ex. 6), and speedily reach the high road a short distance from Rundle Stone (Ex. i, 6). When the convicts are at work
EXCURSION 5. ROCKS IN THE COWSIC. BEAR DOWN. 55
in the enclosures here it is very likely that the visitor will not be allowed to pass this way. In that case he will turn R. on reaching the wall, and follow it up the hill to the corner, near Little Mis Tor (Ex. 6). Here he will turn L., and still keeping close to the wall will, at the distance of i m., reach Rundle Stone. (Ex. i, 6) ]
Another route to Bear Down Man from Two Bridges is by way of Bear Down Hill. The distance from the hotel is 3^ m. On leaving the latter the visitor follows the Tavistock road, and just after passing the entrance to Bear Down Lodge will reach a gate on the R., where a road leads direct to Bear Down Farm. The bridge over the Cowsic takes the place of one erected by Mr. Edward Bray, the encloser of the farm, and who died in 1816. This was swept away in the great flood of July, 1890. Some of the rocks in the bed of the stream near here, and on its bank, bear inscriptions. These are the work of Mr. Bray's son, afterwards Vicar of Tavistock, who, presumably lamenting the absence of the Druids, and the stir and bustle consequent upon their frantic endeavours to discover mistletoe on Dartmoor, conceived the idea of consecrating the rocks in this part of the valley to Theocritus and Virgil, and to British bards, and suitably inscribing them, and thus, as he says, " give more animation to the scene." His method of proceeding was to trace the letters on the stone with a paint brush, and then get them cut by a labourer with a pick. It is fortunate that he recorded what he had done, for had this been omitted he would have caused no end of trouble. The speculations of the antiquaries upon the work of Mr. William Stumps would have been as nothing compared to the theories that would have been advanced by the modern Dryasdusts. In sparing us these Mr. Bray has proved more fortunate than in his endeavours to impart " animation " to the district.
A very short distance above the bridge, and in the beautiful dell that renders this part of the Cowsic so charming, is an interesting clapper. It was swept away in 1873, but the stones were afterwards replaced, and some of them secured with iron clamps. In 1890 it was again partly destroyed by the flood that did so much damage in this part of the moor, and was then rebuilt by the Dartmoor Preservation Association. Its length is about 37 feet, and its breadth rather less than 4 feet, while its height above the stream is 3^ feet. There are five openings.
Ascending the hill we soon reach the farmhouse, where we shall be readily accorded permission to pass up through the enclosures. Above the house is the Devonport leat, here crossed by foot bridges, and just beyond that is the great bare hill. Our first point is the chief of the Bear Down Tors, which is exactly i m. distant from the spot at which we cross the leat, and in a direction almost due N. On a small map in Bellamy's Natural History of South Devon (published in 1839), illustrative of the zoology of Dartmoor, Bear Down is shown as the principal station of the stone-chat. Whether this bird is now to be observed in greater numbers here than in any other part of the moor I cannot say, but so far as I have been able to discover they are as plentiful on Lakehead Hill, between the Cherry Brook and Post Bridge, as anywhere. Two-thirds of a mile from the leat we reach the outer, or northern, Bear Down Newtake, within which the tors are situated. They consist of a group of four, the southernmost being the smallest. Very near to it is the principal pile, which rises to a
56 PRINCETOWN AND TWO BRIDGES DISTRICT.
height of i, 68 1 feet, and forms a conspicuous object from many of the hills in the surrounding parts of the forest. Viewed from a distance from any point from N.E. to S.E., it presents the appearance of a huge cairn, with a small conical pile in the centre of it. This is especially noticeable from the slope of the hill above Broad Marsh (Ex. 46) on the East Dart, and from the high ground round Aune Head (Ex. 43). Another of the tors is placed on the brow of the hill nearer the West Dart, and the fourth is a short distance northward of this. Lydford Tor, which is the last we shall pass, is about |- m. N.W. of the latter, or less than \ m. N. by W. of the chief of the group. As already stated, the northern wall of the Bear Down enclosures passes close to Lydford Tor as it runs across the hill from the Cowsic to the West Dart.
In the Rev. E. A. Bray's journal mention is several times made of Hannaford, who was his tenant at Bear Down. From his two grandsons I have been able to learn something respecting him. His Christian name was John, and he was the father of James Hannaford, who lived for so many years at Headland Warren (Ex. 22). John Hannaford, it appears, built a great part of the newtake wall at Bear Down, but for some reason that I could never discover, was unable to obtain payment for his work. Having spent a considerable sum upon it the loss so crippled him that he was compelled to relinquish the farm. He was buried at Mary Tavy.
Bear Down Man is rather under a mile from Lydford Tor, and lies a little W. of N. Our way thither will take us over gently rising ground, with Dart Hole to the E. and the Cowsic to the W. The return to Two Bridges may be made by way of the Cowsic Valley, as already described, or by the valley of the West Dart. As the latter route has been given from Two Bridges to the menhir, the objects named in it must, of course, be looked for conversely as the rambler makes his way to the former. In a similar manner he will be able to vary any of the excursions here described.
Several objects, indicative of a prehistoric and medieval popu- lation, have been discovered in the vicinity of Two Bridges. Fhnt flakes and chips have been found near the bridge, as well as in Lower Watern Newtake (Ex. 4), at Crockern Farm, and in the track leading to it. John Hannaford, the occupant of Bear Down, told Mr. Bray in 1827 that his uncle had found silver coins about the size of a sixpence in some of the cairns on the moor, and that he himself had found human hair in a kistvaen that he had destroyed. Hannaford, by the way, was, on his own confession, guilty of many acts of vandalism, a statement that will perhaps incline some to think that since he was so prone to interfere with the erections of others he was justly re- warded by the failure of his own building operations. Some human bones are also said to have been found near the road under Bear Down Farm. In a kist not far from the same place, which Mr. Bray opened in 1832, a small fragment of pottery of coarse texture was found. Some oak bowls were dug up many years ago in that part of the moor lying between the Moreton and Ashburton roads, and which is now enclosed and known as Muddy Lakes Newtake. In Gawler Bottom, much nearer Post Bridge (Ex. 46), an oak bowl was also found about the year 1891. These were probably used for measuring tin. In February, 1905, Mr. F. Rounsfell, when raising stone for road mending a little to the E. of Parson's Cottage in the newtake below
EXCURSION 6. RUNDLE STONE.
57
Crockern Tor, found, a stone axe-hammer head. While engaged in his work he came upon a flat stone about 18 inches square, just below the surface, and on breaking this up discovered the implement beneath it. In the centre of it was a neat perforation for the reception of a wooden handle. It had been ground and polished, and one end was fashioned as a celt, with a cutting edge, and the other as a hammer. Its weight was i pound 9 ounces.
[For the route to Cut Hill from Princetown or Two Bridges see Ex. ii.]
Ex. 6. — Rundle Stone — Great Mis Tor — Greena Ball — The Walk- ham — The Blackabrook — Holming Beam — Fitz's Well. About yf m., Princetown. Two Bridges add about i m. EXTENSION To Sandy Ford, the Lich Path, and the Cowsic.
To Fitz's Well direct (return) 4^ m.
Black Dunghill.
Maiden Hill
Conies Down
Tor.
FROM ROAD ABOUT IOO YARDS S. OF RUNDI,E STONE.
If our starting-point is Princetown we take the road running past the church and the prison to Rundle Stone, and if we set out from Two Bridges we follow the Tavistock road to the same spot. As we have already spoken of the Rundle Stone (Ex. i ), there will be little to detain us now. The destruction of the monolith is greatly to be deplored, for, though we hear nothing of it until 1702, it is highly probable that it was standing long prior to that time. It was one of the few objects set up on the forest boundary line, most of those by which it is marked being natural ones. The house near by, on the R. as we reach Rundle Stone Corner from Princetown, was formerly an inn, and near here at one time there was a gate across the road. Several years ago the house was greatly damaged by lightning.
58 PRINCETOWN AND TWO BRIDGES DISTRICT.
Proceeding a short distance on the Tavistock road we take the first turning on the R. and make our way towards Mount View, a house which stands not far from the highway. After passing some enclosures beyond this we emerge upon the common with the wall of the New Forest Prison ground (Ex. 5) on our R. This wall is built just within the forest bounds, and our way lies along by it. On our L. is that part of Walkhampton Common which, together with a tract on our R., formerly bore the name of Mis Tor Moor. It is spoken of as such by the jurors who surveyed the bounds of the forest in 1609, but is seldom so referred to now. Ancient workings extend from near Rundle Stone to the Walkham, and in close proximity to these are a number of hut circles and some small pounds The latter are on the side of the hill below Wain Tor, or Little Mis Tor, and almost due W. of it. This Tor will be seen a little to the L. just before we reach the corner of the prison enclosure (Ex. 5). Though not of great size, Wain Tor is a conspicuous object from many points, owing to its situation, and square, compact form.
Passing upward, and still pursuing the same course we have been following from Rundle Stone, we speedily reach Great Mis Tor, one of the grandest of the rocky crowns of the moor. From whichever side it is seen it presents an imposing appearance, but the best view of it is probably that obtained from near Merivale Bridge. It is also seen to great advantage from Langstone Moor (Ex. 8), while from Roborough Down the grouping of this fine pile, with Roose Tor and Staple Tor and Cocks' Tor Hill, presents all the appearance of a mountain chain. The view from the tor is extensive and varied. On one side is seen the whole of West and North- West Devon, and much of the eastern part of Cornwall. Away to the south is Mount Edgcumbe, and the Tamar at Saltash, with the masterpiece of Brunei which spans it. Thence ranging northward the eye lights upon the hills of " rocky Cornewaile," and the tors that rise from the midst of King Arthur's
LOOKING N.N.E. FROM MIS TOR.
Land. On the other hand, we look into the great moor we are per- ambulating, and see much of the old-time hunting-ground, and if we have learnt to recognise the forms of the chief of its tors from the lofty summit of North Hisworthy, we shall here see many that are known to us. Westward of the Walkham are several fine piles, which are
EXCURSION 6. IVIES TOR.
59
noticed in the excursions from Tavistock. The one nearest to us, in a direction W. bv S., is Roose Tor ; southward of that is Great Staple Tor, and beyond them the rounded Cocks' Tor Hill (Ex. 8). To the N.W., and on the further side of Langstone Moor, is another pile. This is White Tor (Ex. 8), or Whittor, as it is more often called, and beyond it i» the valley of the Tavy. The stone circle on Langstone Moor, noticed in Ex. 8, is not very far from Mis Tor, and when the river can be crossed may readily be reached from it. It is about £ m. from the Walkham, and N.N.W. of the tor. Should the visitor decide to include this object in the present ramble he may, after having examined it, make his way to the point we shall presently reach, by following the Walkham and crossing it at Shallow Ford. Or he may return to the Rundle Stone by way of Men vale, first visiting Roose Tor and Staple Tor (Ex. 8), and then descending to the hamlet.
The meaning of the name of this tor is not apparent. The sug- gestion concerning it offered in the days when the Druidic theory was
LOOKING N.E. FROM MIS TOR.
rife, is not worth consideration. The tor was known as Mystor, or Mistorr, in the thirteenth century, and is mentioned during succeeding centuries in documents relating to the forest.
As elsewhere stated (see Bondmark in the Terms section) the boundary line between the forest and its purlieus seems to have been drawn through the tor, so that part of the pile was within the royal hunting-ground and part without. In the survey of 1609 the bond- mark is specified as " a rocke called Mistorrpan," and this name also occurs more than 300 years earlier in the deed of Isabella referred to below. Mis Tor Pan is undoubtedly the large rock-basin on the mass of granite forming the southern part of the pile, and yet by some strange mistake the name has been affixed in the Ordnance Maps to Mis Tor Marsh, some third of a mile to the N.E. of the tor. That this should be corrected is important, as the forest boundary is expressly stated in the deed above referred to to be drawn from Mistorpanna, and if this be identified with the marsh the forest line is thrown considerably back. But the rock is evidently meant, and as we have seen, was specially mentioned as Mistorrpan in 1609. By this name also was the rock known to the peasantry early in the nineteenth century, and has con- tinued to be so called. The basin is a very fine example. It is about
Oo PRINCETOWN AND TWO BRIDGES DISTRICT.
3 feet in diameter, and 8 inches in depth ; the bottom is flat, and there is a small channel leading from it to the edge of the rock.
But the basin also bears another name. It is sometimes referred to as the Devil's Frying-pan, and several stories are related in con- nection with it in which the Evil One figures.
As we have already seen, the forest boundary is drawn from North Hisworthy Tor to Mis Tor. Looking southward towards the former we have the forest on the L,. of an imaginary line running from one to the other, and Walkhampton Common, as previously mentioned, on the R. The latter formed part of the lands given by Amicia of Clare, Countess of Devon, in 1280, to found the Abbey of the Blessed Mary and Benedict of Buckland. The gift was afterwards confirmed (in 1 291) by her daughter, Isabella de Fortibus, Countess of Albemarle and Devon, and Lady of the Isle of Wight. Isabella was left a widow at the age of 23, and two years after succeeded to the possessions of her father, Baldwin de Redvers, her brother dying without heir male, and thus became the richest heiress of her time. Among these pos- sions was included the Isle of Wight, the lordship of which had been bestowed upon Richard de Redvers by Henry I. She died in 1303, and on her deathbed sold the island to Edward I. for 6,000 marks. With her the line of De Redvers became extinct, and many of the estates passed to the Courtenays.
Another considerable tract of land on Dartmoor, forming part of the Chase of Okehampton, was also held by the De Redvers. (Oke- hampton District). It is not a little curious that in the names of these commons the termination Hampton appears, and yet is found nowhere else on the moor, or in the border parishes. Many of the names of the latter exhibit the oft-found Saxon termination ton, though in more than one instance the word is apparently traceable to the Celtic dun, a hill, the heavy sound of the initial letter having given place to a lighter one. But hampton is found only in Walkhampton and Oke- hampton— locally pronounced Wackinton and Ockinton — though in neither does the word seem to possess its usual signification. It would, however, be unsafe to conclude that it does not. Ham and ton may, together, be taken to mean a farm, or enclosed land, with its dwelling- house and outbuildings, the house town, as it were, and the term came to signify an inhabitated settlement. In Walkhampton the second syllable does not appear to have any connection with the third, but only with the first, the name being derived, we may reasonably suppose, from the river Walkham. Risdon, writing early in the seventeenth century, calls this river the Store [Gems, Chap. XXI.], but even if it were then so known, it is certain that at a much earlier time it bore a name closely resembling the one by which it is called to-day, being referred to as the Walkamp in the deed of Isabella de Fortibus. Thus, Walkhampton would mean the town, or settlement, on the Walkham, if we could be sure that the deed gave us the earliest form of the name of the river. But this is doubtful. There are many Dartmoor streams bearing the name of Walla, or Wella, and one that of Wollake, and I should be inclined to place Walkham in the same category, and to regard its early name to have been either Walla or Wollake. In Saxon times the settlement on the stream would be called Walla- hampton, or Wollakhampton, and by an easy transition Walkhampton. But it is also very probable that we do not see the word ham in this
EXCURSION 6. THE HANGING ROCK. FITZ'S WELL. 61
name at all ; that the early name of the river was the Walla, and that Walkhampton is Walla cwm ton, the town in the combe, or valley, of the Walla. (Gems, Chap. XXI.)
Leaving Mis Tor and its interesting traditionary and historic associations we shall make our way down the hill to the Walkham, our course being a little E. of N., thus following in the footsteps of the old perambulators. On our R. is Mis Tor Marsh, already mentioned, where the ground drops towards the Prison Leat. About ^ m. from the tor we reach Greena Ball, where are three cairns, situated a short distance to the R. of the line we are pursuing ; then descending the /V /) steep slope we reach the Walkham at what is known as the Hanging Rock, and immediately opposite to a combe down which flows a little stream called Dead Lake. To the Hanging Rock, which marks the extreme northern part of Walkhampton Common, the river forming its western boundary, the oft-repeated story of the sheep-stealer attaches. In the attempt to climb over it with the sheep on his shoulders he slipped, and the animal's legs being clasped round his neck, he was strangled. From the Rundle Stone to this point we have been traversing the boundary line of the forest, which here crosses the Walkham and runs up Dead Lake, but now we leave it. The suggestion that has been made that the line was once drawn from Mis Tor to White Tor rests on nothing but supposition, and is directly contrary to such evidence as we possess concerning it.
We turn eastward and trace the Walkham upwards. Soon we shall find it makes a great bend, the stream flowing from the N. Jiist above this bend the track leading from the Blackabrook to Cudlipp Town Down and Wapsworthy (T. 12) crosses the river at Shallow Ford. But we do not go quite so far as that, for OP reaching a rivulet that comes down into the Walkham from Black Hole, R., we turn up by it, and following it for about 100 yards, shall find ourselves on the track. Following this up the hill we shall cross the Prison Leat at a fording-place, and about £ m. further on shall reach the springs of the Blackabrook. From this point the route to Princetown and Two Bridges has been given in Excursion 5, in which it was also stated that the path through the Prison ground lies by Fitz's Well (T. 12).
This object we shall find about | m. S. of the point at which our track by the Blackabrook enters the New Forest enclosure (Ex. 5). Since the formation of the latter a wall has been built round the well, otherwise it is the same as ever it was, except that it is less striking now than when it stood, as I remember it, on the open moor. Fice's Well, as it is locally called, used to be spoken of as being warm in winter and cold in summer, and according to Bellamy is a spring of the kind that are in evident connection with rivers, and which, he j>ays, " to have attained their elevated temperature, must have descended through some passages of the river-bed to a great depth of the earth before reappearing at the surface."*
A little structure formed of slabs of granite, about 3 feet high, is raised over the well, the cover stone being oblong, and measuring nearly 4 feet in length, by rather over 3 feet in width. In the front part of this cover is a sunken panel, in which are carved in relief the letters I. F., and the date 1568. John Wilson, the Christopher North
* Natural History of South Devon, p. 146.
»2 PRINCETOWN AND TWO BRIDGES DISTRICT.
of Blackwood, noticed this well when on a visit to Dartmoor, and mis- read the date as 1168, " which," he says, " must be a lie." But had he been more careful in his examination he would have found that the inscription does not lie. The second figure is rather curiously formed, it is true, but this is only characteristic of the manner of writing it in the sixteenth century, and it would be recognised by anyone to-day as 5.* The letters are supposed to represent the initials of John Pitz, and there is good reason for believing this to be the case. [Crosses, Chap. XI.] Early in the last century there was a moorland tradition to the effect that John, or James, Fice, a traveller, experienced some great relief from the spring, and in gratitude raised the little edifice over it, while another story, related in Tavistock, told how this was set up by John Pitz, of Fitzford. He and his lady being " pixy-led " when riding over the moor, found, on drinking the water of a certain spring, that the spell of the mischievous elves was broken, and that they could no longer lead them from their way. Grateful for this deliverance he placed the granite covering over the water that possessed such miraculous power (Ex. 15). Two or three other stories are related of this well.
Quite near to it a clapper spans the Blackabrook. It was swept away in 1873 by the same flood that so greatly damaged the one under Bear Down (Ex. 5), and remained in a dismantled state for some years, but has fortunately been restored. The path that evidently passed this way seems to have been the precursor of the one on which the present high road is formed, for in the eighteenth century we find that the track which then ran across the forest passed the Rundle Stone. Con- tinuing on our way we shall soon reach the road, which is exactly \ m. from the well.
[Should the visitor desire to extend this walk he may, instead of returning from the Walkham by the Blackabrook Head path (T. 12), make his way up that river to the Lich Path (T. 18), where it crosses it at Sandy Ford.
This is rather less than \ m. above Shallow Ford. Following the Path eastward he will cross the Prison L/eat at a bridge, and make his way along the edge of Conies' Down to Travellers' Ford on the Cowsic, which is about i m. from the Walkham. Instructions for reaching the head waters of the Blackabrook from this point are given in Ex. 5. This will add about 3 m. to the ramble.]
To reach Fitz's Well from Princetown direct the first point will be the Rundle Stone ; then turn R. into the Two Bridges road, and take the first turning on the L. Here the Prison ground is entered, the path running through it as described above. From Two Bridges the way will lead the visitor along the Tavistock road to within a few hundred
* " During the whole of the sixteenth century, in inscriptions, the 5 took different forms, resembling more or less the same figure as commonly written in France at the present day, and in many instances it is easily mistaken for a i, particularly in inscriptions of the middle and latter half of the century." Thomas Wright's Essay on the Antiquity of Dates expressed in Arabic Numerals. But Christopher North ought to have known that the figure could not be i .
EXCURSION 6. THE WALKHAM. MERIVALE. r;3
yards of Rundle Stone Corner, when he will enter the Prison ground on the R. Although the path to the well existed long before there were any prison enclosures on the moor, and the public have an un- questionable right of way there, visitors are, as previously observed, generally warned off when the prisoners are at work near where they may happen to be passing. It would be well therefore that the rambler should so time his visit to those parts of