account

0 F

Several Travels

Through a great part of

In Four Journeys.

I. From Norwich to Cohn.

II. From Cohn to Vienna , with a particular' Defcription of that Imperial City,

III. FromTirwna to Hamburg.

IV. From Cohn to London.

WHEREIN

The Mines, Baths , and other Curiofities of thofe Parts are Treated of.

Illuftrated with Sculptures .

By EDWARD BROWN U.D. Fellow ®f the College of Phyficians of London, and of the Royal Society.

LONDON ,

Printed for Benj. Teeke, and are to be fold at the Sign of the ship in St. Raul's Church-yard. 1677.

Imprimatur,

G.fane R.P, D. Hen. Epi Cc.Lond. a Sacris Dom.

Sept. 2 <5, 167 6.

to THE

READER.

^^^^Aving given the Englijh World i|g|i an Account of form remote and feldome travelled Countries of Europe } in the Year , 1675. I remained indifferent ,as to the publishing any thing more , concerning nearer y or bet- ter Jptown placer; a great part whereof hath been delivered by fome good 3 and obferving Writers ; upon which confide- ration3 though written fome years fence , thefe Papers have not come abroad and had (till remained private , had not the defires of Friends folicited this Publica- tion, and alfo a Promife in my former B>oo\obligdme to fay fomethingof Vi- enna , as libgwife my Journey unto that Place from England^ the Belgian Pro-

A 2 vinces

To the Reader.

vinces and Germany • and of my Return from Vienna by Auftria Trans- Danu- biana , Moravia , Bohemia, Mifnia, Saxonia, unto Hamburg ; hereof l have therefore given fome Account in this Wor if, not much engaging into the Policy and State Government of Places , -which have been fo largely delivered, as to maty; up juft olumesfiut have rather fet down what is Naturally , Artificially, Hiflori- cally , and T Geographically remarkable ; together with fome Cufomes and Oc cur- rencies which might be acceptable unto the Inquifitive Reader, or ferve as hints of further Enquiry , to fetch Perfons as may hereafter Travel into thofe Parts.

A

C « ) A

JOURNEY

FROM

NORWICH

T O

COLEN in GERMANY .

N the year 1668. 1 left the large and pleafant City of Norwich ? and went by land to Yarmouth a Port Town in Norfolk , at the mouth of the River Hierus or Yare$ large, fairly built and populous , very confiderable for the great Herring fifliing in the Au- tumn, and the commerce it maintain- eth in theStreights ; Baltick , Britijh and German Sets: With Italians , Frenchy Spaniards, Dutch , Vanes, and Swedes ♦ I was here nobly entertained by that worthy and obliging perfon , Sr. lames Iohnfon , who alfo fur- nifh’c me with letters of Credit , to Amfierdam 5 Franck- fort , Venice and Vienna $ Whereby I was readily and handsomely accommodated in all Parts where I had af- terwards occafionto travel,

B -Augufi

(Oi

Augufi the 14. about fix a clock at night I went a- board the Jngel-Ketch in Tarmouth Road , a VtfiTel of a- bout^sTuns, and we immediately fee fay I for Rotter- dam', we left St, Nicholas- Savd on the Larboard, arid after th at the Nowlcs , a new Sand , 'nos taken notice of to be ras fed above twelve years before. We kept our courfeall mght , Eaft and by South and Eaft South-Eaft. The Sea burned at the head of the Ship at (he beginning of the night, but the Moon nfvng there appeared nothing but froth. In the morning we difeovered Gravefandt Steeple- It is theenftom upon all this coaft to fend out Pylot-boats continually to meet all Ships at Sea , and iurnifli them with Py lots to bring them through the lands, and no Ship is torefufeone: Having taken in our Pylor, wefoon difeovered Goree Steeple, and then the Erie/. We entred the River Mo ft , or Maes , a Large and noble Stream, which arifing in the Mountaines of Vauge , or Vfgefas , pafiing by Verdun , Dinant , Namur, Liege , Maejlricbt , Ruremond , Venlo , and many confiderable Places , doth here fail into the Ocean, we had a very pleafant paflage up the River , fay ling by many neat Vil- lages , as Maefe-jiuySy Schedam , Delfshaven , andhand- fome rowes of Trees upon the fliore, and arrived at Rot- terdam about fix at night. This is one of the three chief palTages by Sea into Holland^ the other being by Flujhing and the T exelL The neareft cut out of Eng • land into Holland is from Laifloffe Point to Grave - fandt , which is 28 Leagues., and the deepeft part of the Sea is about 28 Fathoms. There lay two of thegrea- teft Ships in Holland at that time near Rotterdam , the Crane and the WaJJenaer ; this latter built in lieu of that in which Admiral Of dam was blown up, fighting againft his Royal Highnefs the Duke of Torke. The Heads or Keyes between which we entred the towneby w ater are

handfome

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bandfome , and Ships of great burden are received into the middle of divers ftreets without difficulty , ( their Channels being deep and large) the houfes are well built, and the town Populous , they have an Exchange or place for Merchants to meet at , the ftreets are fo clean that the Women goe about in white Slippers, they being paved with Bricks laid edgwife. The Landthuife hath a fair front. In the great Church the Organs , the Tower and the Monument of De wit , upon the Bridge the Statue of Erafmus , as alfo the houfe where he was born , and the Pleafure boats of the States are worth the feeing* It be» ing then the timeof theii Kermis or Faire , there were playes afted and many rarities fhewn.as Lions , Leonards, 8cc, and a great noife was made about a tall Woman to be fhewn offeven foot high ; but the Boor of Leckertyrk^ not far from this town , was higher Parfons and Evans , porters to King Charles the firft,did a’fj exceed her , but I have feldom heard of any that was taller than ^Martin Wierwfki a Polander, who at the age of forty two years was prefented to the Emperour ^Maximilian the fecond* as a rarity of nature, and was full eight foot high ? whofe pifture,as big as the life, I faw,near to the Francifcans Con- vent at Vienna in Auftria.

From Rotterdam I pafled by Overfchee to Delft , by the Powderhoufe , which is a handfome one , built now at fomediftancefrom the towne to prevent the like acci- dent which befell when the former took fire and blew up part of the town. The Piazza or market- place is a very fairone, having the front of the town houfe at one end of it, and the highfteepleof the new Church at the o- ther. In the old Church, Van-Tromps Tom.be is very well carved upon thefideof the Wall , himfelf lying up- on a Canon encompaffed with Arms and trophies. In the middle Ifle of the new Church there is a noble

B 2 monument

<4)_

monument, the Tombe of William of PJaJJaw Prince of Orange, together with his Wife and Son, Prince Maurice^ his Statua is in armour with bisDog at his feet, and four Obelisks are fupported by ten Marble pillars. In a houfeofthis Town there were fhewn me in aWali the marks of the bullets (hot at Prince William , who was thereby munhered 1584. and in another Church which was broad and fpacious I faw a handfome Tomb for Sr. Charles Morgans Lady, and the Monument of Veter Hein the Admiral , who took the Spanijb Silver- fleer.

The Hague, Haga Comttis , the ancient place of Refi- dence of the Counts of Holland , and now of the States ge. neral; is about an h:ursgoing diftant from Delft ; in which pa(Tage,at fomediftance,\ve had a fight of two of the Prince of Orange's houfes. This placeis well built; the Prince’s Court handfome ; The Piazza by it full of green trees ; many fair Houfes. TheCourfe where the Coach- es meet, the Pall-mall , the Wood, the Fark, do much beautify it, and the way from hence to Scheveling , from whence his Majefly returned into England^svexy remark- able , it being a (Wight way cut [hrough the Sand-hills, and paved with Brick for three miles, having on each hand four or five rows of Trees , and Scheveling Steeple at the end ofir.

The Hague and Madrid in Spain are accounted the greatefi: Villages, or open unwalled places, in Europe, and the Hollanders have thought it more honour to be Malleus of the greatefi: Village, thanofaplace which, if it were walled , would come fliort of many Cities; but this may prove a dangerous refolution, for formerly upon this ad- vantage, Martin van Roj[em, Captain to the Duke of Gueldres , facked the Hague 3 and it was lately in the like danger when the French Forces lay at Utrecht and \Vor-

C 5 )

den> if chey had forced a pifTage into shit part of Holland , Leyden is three hours or three Dutch miles from the Hague , ac prefentoneof theneateft Towns in Europe \ Well built , hath divers large Streets, beautified with rowes of Trees , and the water pafling through the middle of them . andalfo well fortified after the modern way; I took notice ofihat Antiquity called Ihngijt Caftle , or the Berg , faid eo be built by Hengijl ih % Saxon, and went up to the top thereof ; Upon the top there is now an Arbour, and a Maze or Labyrinth round it, and a We ll, out of 'which , they told us, they took a Fifh alive- when the Town was almoft faimfhed during thefiege, which was Hie wed to the Enemy over the wail , endeavouring to make their condition to appear better than it was , and to difhearten the befiegers. There are now handfon e fiairs from the top to the bottom, and a good houfe built by it , where they have their publick Tales and en- tertainments* But a nobler Antiquity lie r h under the Sea, than any above ground ; not far from hence near Catwyck is a fquare fort rtfs called Jrx Britannia, built by Caligu* U\ in the declining of the Romm Empire ruined in part by the Normans, and afterwards negieded5& overwhelm- ed by the Sea. But imfome years* and great retire of the Sea , the mines have been difeovered , and many no- ble Antiquities brought from it, fume having this in- feriprion Ex. Ger> Inf. ex Germania inferiori. The Stadthuije hath a fair front towards the ftreet. In the Anatomy Schools are a very great number of Skeleton s. Two legs of an Elephant. The Skeleton of a young Whale , ofa Horfe , Deer , Cow , Cat, Eox , and many other Animals; divers Skeletons of Men and Women, fome bodies preferved with their Mufcles, and one intire , the flefii , skinandal! parts defended from corruption* I fawalfohere what Monfieur de Bils pretended towards

the

C 6 )

the prefervation of Bodies , but more accurately after- wards at Dr. Ruifch his houfe at Amjlerdam The Pbyfick- garden, although but final!, is well filled with Plants, where are alfomany other both natural 3 and artificial! Curio- fities to be feen, and many forts of Of tick -glaffes. Near the garden are the Schools built of Brick with the Officina Elzevirian* on the top. In the Churches I faw the Monuments of many famous men. There is a Pifiure in the Chamber for the Burgermafiers, reprefenc- ingtheday of Judgment, drawn by Lucas van Leyden , fomuch efteemed that, it is faid, the Emperour Rn» dolfhus would have given for it as many Ducats of Gold as would have covered it. The Table alfo upon which John of Leyden wrought whilft he was a Taylor, is a Curiofity, becaufe he proved afterwards fo confiderable a diffurber of Germany, and came to be King ofth t Anabaptifls.

This City endured a hard fiege by the Spanijh forces, and they were reduced unto great extremity, but they faved chemfelves by overflowing the Country, and fo forcing the Enemies to make away with great lofs ; and afterwards coy ned a memorial-Medalt with thislnfcrip- tion.

Ut Senacherib a Jerufalem, /ic Hifpani a Ley da noffu fa- gerunt * 1574.

From Leyden I came to Haerlem , a neat City , plea- fantly feated and having a Grove near it. The great Church is efteemed the largeft in Holland, with a very high Lanthorn upon it. Within are many Infcriptions and Monuments , moft of which are tranfcr bed and fet down in Gotfr* Hegenitii Itinerarium Hollandicum . In the Prin- ce’s houfe are aM the Ear es of Hoi and Painted upon the wall, and in the Garden in the Summer-houfe , the Pift- ureof Laurentius Cojlerm , who is faid to have firfi: in- vented the art of Printing in this Town 3 but others attri- bute

( 7 )

bute it to Johannes Gottenberg , a German, On the ci- ther fide there is a Figure of a Ship with Saws , in* memo- ry of the manner how Damiata in Egypt was formerly ta- ken by thofe of this Town , who, as they report, accom- panied Frederick E a? bar ojfa in an expedition againft the Saracens , and w hen the men of Felujium or I) ami at a had chained up their Port, by this invention of fanning (hong Paws to the keels of their Ships , they cut the chains in funder 5 and fo took the Town, fn the rooms are very good Paintings by liemskerk , and Goltzius , as his J Prometheus and other Peeces ; but Cornelius van Haerlem rnoft delighted me, in his peeces of Rerods kil- ling the Innocent Children; his feaft of the Gods, in which Vu leans foot, is eftcemed at a great rate 3 and ano* ther Picture of a Frier and a Nunata Collation, not infe- riour to the reft.

The old Mens houfe , or an Hofpital for fixty aged perfons , is large and handfome ; having a good Qua- drangle and a Garden in it. The Hofpital alfo for the fick is very cleanly kept.

Here 1 fir ft faw the manner of punifbing Malefaft- oursby whipping them with rods , which is more fe- vere than I imagined ; they lead them to a Port upon a fcaffold , their hands tyed and by a pully drawn up as high as they can be extended, and then an Iron faftned a* bout their waft to keep them fteady; in wTich firetched’ out poll ure they receive fometimes fifty or fixty ftripes or more , according to the merit of t heir offence*

Not far from this place there is a great Water , or no. ted Lake called Haerlem Meere about twenty miles in length , w’hich is frozen over in hard Winters , and men fwiftly travel over it by Aiding, or in fleds. When Haer- lem was befteged there was a Naval fight upon it ; The Dutch having about an hundred and fifty Veffels, and the

Spaniards

C 8 )

Spaniards not many fewer. The Town was afterwards taken by Compofition , but fuch cruelty was ufed by the Spaniards that they have not yet forgot it.

From Haerlem 1 went to Jlmjlerdam , a City at pre* fent for Riches, Trade, Shipping , fair Streets, and pleafant habitations, fcarce yielding to any other of the World .It is feared upon the River Y e , and hath its name^ as Vis reported, from a CafHe appertaining longfince to the Lords of to whomthis place a lfo belonged:

At the beginning, the feat of a few fifliermen ; but after- wards increafmg, it received many priviledges from the Counts of Holland, and was made a Town or City by the favour of their Grams and Charters. In the year 1470. it was walled about with a Brick-wall ? to defend it a- gaintt the Citizens of Utrecht, they having been in great danger to have fallen into their hands , if thofe of Utrecht had purfued their victories* la few Months after alfo, the whole Town was altroft reduced to Afhes by fire, but by the incre3fe of their Traffick they eafiiy overcame thefe loiTes , waded through all difficulties, and rcndred good fervices to their Counts , and received the honour afterwards from Maximilian theEmperour to have the Imperia 11 Crown over their Armes, which are three Crofi fes on a Pale

About the year 1525. Gelenfcnt from the new King ofMu n [ier, pa (Ted chr ov.ghFr iejland and came to thisCity; where having made a party, and communicated his de- fign 3 herefolved to furprize the Town by night , at the time of the founding of the Bell ; to which intent they were already cntred the Market place , had fet upon the Town houfe ; and cut in pieces thofe who refitted them. When by great providence the rope to the great Bell was taken away ; the Magiftrateshad notice of it, and caufed all the flreets and Avenues leading to the Market-place to

be

CO

be flopped up with Woolfaeks and Hopfack^ whereby they werehindred in their defign of taking the Town by Highland the next morning their number being difcover- ed to be inconfiderable, they were Pet upon, driven into the Stadthutf,and defeated.

Of late years this City is mightily encreafed and en- .compared with a new Wall5and fortified after the modern way* Thenew Streets are large and uniform : and the /whole Town being in a low Marfiy ground, the water is let in through all the confiderable Streets. The River jimftel pafTeth through the City, being let in under a handfome well-contrived Bridge of Eleven Arches, which is fo built as to make part of the Wall and Rampart, and is 26 paces broad. The whole Town is built upon Piles, or high Firr-trees, driven down perpendicularly into the Earth fo thick together, that nothing more can be forced in between them : And by this means they build Houfes in the Sea, and lay Foundations ftrong enough to fupport the greateft Buildings wbatfocver, in places where no folid bottom is to be found. But they mufl: needs be at a great expence and labour before they can lay the firft Scone : And the number of Trees required to each Foundation is confiderable 5 fincefor the Foun- dation of one Tower or Steeple alone, over againft the Church of Sc. Katherine , Mr. J. de Pariva[l,whQ wrote Les Delicesdela HoUande , reckoneth that there was ram- med into the ground a ForreJly as he calls if, of Six thou- fand three hundred and thirty four great Trees. About this manner of work, for the fixing their Foundations* I fa w them employed in divers places, particularly at the Eafi- India* honfe y and at a place where a Lutheran Church was thendefigned to be built. So that it was not improbably Paid, That if a man could fee all under thk

r eater Forreft. C

The

hoy

The StaMuuor TcwK-houfe, is the nobJeft Building in all theft Countries. A Pile of Freeftoneof an hundred and ten paces in Front, being larger than the Magnified Front of the Church of St. Peter s at Rome > and eighty one paces deep, or on the Tides. The Chambers in it , the Figures and Statues are worthy to be Teen and admi- red, The firjft Room on the right hand, or 'judgment- hall, where the Malefactors receive their Sentence, is a- dorned with large Statues, hanging down their heads in mournful poflures, as if concerned or grieving at what was then pronounced. The Floors are of Marble ; the Roofs are richly giTc and painted. Upon the top of all ftands jftlas or Columlm, holding a Globe upon his fhoul- dtr made of Copper, of about ten foot Diameter, which Isas large perhaps as any Ball or Globe what foe ver em- ployed to this ornamental ufe. That upon St. Peter's at Rom, as having been in it, I judge to be lefts as like- wife that at Florence. The Turkifh Ornament to the Tower of their Mofqttes-, is three Balls one above another, and ah half Moon over them, but they are lefs by far, at leafl fucbas I havefeen : and by relation from Eye wic- nefies, the largefl: of the three noble gilded Balls atMo- ncco are inferiour to this. But I will fay nothing more of this great building , the Stadthuis , fi nee there is a peculiar defeription of it in Folio , with Cuts and Figures of the moft remarkable Curiofities in it. The Exchange is fair and large, and above it are Shops:*, it is very well frequented5and he that cometh after twelve pay eth fix ftivers*

Divers oftheir Churches are fair: In the new Church, ! the partition with Ballifters of Brafs, and the carved Pul- .pit, are noble. In the old Church the Tomb of Van Bulfr and Heemker 4 are remarkable* Heemskerk did lis Country great Services in their firft attempts upon in*

^ dia tz ;

(llj

dia : for the King of Spain having confifcated fotue of the Hollander $ Ships, who traded to his Dominions , which were then the Staple for the India Trade. 1 1 was refol ved by thepermiffion of Prince Maurice and the States, to fee out a Fleet of eight (hips for the Indies ; four of which were to pads by the way of the J.tlantick Ocean, and the Cape of Goo^ hope : And the other four were to fearch a paffage towards the Kingdoms of Cathay and china by the North*eaft, whereby the paffage alfo into thofe parts might be expected much (barter chan that which was known to the Spaniards .

To this intent thefe four Jafi vefiels failed out of the 2Vjc ely June 5. i <94. and returned in September , not be- ing able to proceed by reafon of the Ice. But upon the relation of the Voyage by William Barenfon, there were two ocher Expeditions afterwards to Nova Zembla\ in tbeiaftof which they wintered there, and Barenfon loft his life. Heemskerk was the chief of the twelve which returned from that cold habitation, where none but Bears and Foxes could well endure the Winter, where he had been twice, and afterwards made two rich Voyages into India^Upon whofe happy returns the Holland. Eajl-lndia Company was firft eftablilhed, and a prohibition made for any other of that Country to trade thither for the fpace of One and twenty years.

But to proceed to other publick Buildings in thisCi- ty. The ‘luchthuis or Rajpelhuk , or Hou fe of Correftion for debauched young men, fuch as are incorrigible and dif- obedient to Parents or Laws, hath at the entrance of the Gate two Lions bridled, a proper Embleme^ with this Infcription, Virtutis eftdomare qu£ cuntii pavent* This was formerly a Monaftery belonging to the Nuns of the Order of St, Clare, and converted to this ufe 1595* They who are put in. are forced to work and gain their Bread

C 2 with

with hard labour, I faw thofe who rafped Brazil, having* a certain task fet them every day, work fo hard, that be- ing naked and in a fweat,and the duft of the Brazil* wood flying upon them , they were all over painted of a beau- tiful red colour. Which odd fight made me call to rhind' thePhanfieof my Lady Marcbionefs of Newcajile , of a Nation wherein the People were ofOrange-tawny colour, and the King of Purple.

They told usthatfome that were committed to their charge, and rsot to be brought to work by blows , they placed in a large Cifrern, and let the water in upon them, placing only a Pump by them for their relief, whereby they are forced to labour for their lives, and to free thcmfelves from drowning. One we faw put into a* sarrow Dungeon, and kept from mear. Some are put into this Houfe for a longer time, fome for a fhorter. Ic hath’ been a punishment for fuchas have drawn their Daggers, or offered to flab any one. And fome Citizens , though able and ricfrenough, contrive it fo, that when their Sons are extravagant and mafterlefs, the Officers feize upon them, and carry them into this Houfe, where they are not forced to any hard labour, but kept in till theyfee fbf- ficient figns of amending their life.

This way of Correftion may feem fevere to many , yet is not comparable to that which isfaidto have been for- merly ufed in Germany Particularly at Cohn, in the white Tower $ at the North end of the Town, near the Rhine ; where it is reported, that fuch Youths who were not otherwife to be reclaimed, were in a barbarous manner fliuc up in the white Tower. The height and tbicknefs of the walls fecured them from efcaping, or from their complaints being heard. Near the top was placed out of their reach a loaf of bread, the laft remedy againfl flarving, which while their bold' necefficy forced • v'v. " ’ •• 0“ ' them-

*3 )

med their- laft ftntence Upon themfelves, andmiierably brake their own necks.

Somewhat like th zRaJpelhuit is t\\z-'$pwhuisjQi Houfe of Correction, for the young women who live loofely, are taken in the nights or can give no account of their living. They are put in for a certain time, according as their fault meriteth, and are bound to make lace, few, or* employ their time perpetually in fome boneft labour,

Thofeof the better fort are permitted to have Cham- bers apart. In one large Room 1 faw about an hundred of them, and fome very well drefled and fine, which was an unexpected fight to me, and would fure be more4 ftrange to behold in France and England.

The WeeJhuM) or Hofpital for Children , where there are Six hundred Orphans carefully looked afcer,and well educated.

The Dolbm, or a Houfe for iuch as are Delirious , Mas jriaca!, orMelan'cholical of both Sexes.

Th t'Gaflhuk, or Hofpital for the Sick, being 'large, and hath a great Revenue.

The Mannenhuu, or Hofpital for old Men , and fucbf as are no longer able to labour towards their own fup- port.

Belides all which , there are great Sums of mony col- le&ed for the poor, fo that there is not a Begger to be' feen in the Streets, and upon all afiignations or appoint- ments of meeting at the Tavern, orelfewhere, and uporf many other occafions, whofoever faileth to come at the exaft time , forfeiteth more or !ef$ to the ufe of the Poor,

ThtEafi-lndUEmfes are remarkable 5 and the great Stores of their Commodities , Cinamon , Green-ginger , Gmphire , Pepper, G/tlecnts , Indico, &c. The (hips are of a great burden ? their Houfe was then enlargtngjakfrouglt

them to reach at, they exe<

04)

it was great before; andaperfeft Town for all Trades within it felf.

The Admiralteyt, or Admiralty where their Stores for War and Shipping are laid up* is encompaflfed with wa- ter* near to it there lay then 7 2 Men of War. In theHoufe we faw their Cables, Grapling irons, Pullies, Oars, Char- ges for Powder, Lanthorns for (hips, &c* At the en- trance of the Gate hangeth up a Canoe with a man in it* dryedup, fo as to be preferved from corruption, and a Paddle in his hand : he was enclofed up to the v/afte in the Canoe , in fuch fort, as the Fifii-skins, which were the cover to it, being fo fewed together that no water could get in, he might keep the Sea in the greateft Storms with- out danger. The top of this Houfe, as of divers others alfoin this City, is aRefervatory for Rain-water , ..which they have the more need of, becaufe they have little good water hereabouts.

Thefaireft Streets in the Town are Rarlem-fireet , the Cingel , Princes Graft , Kaifers Grafts and the New Build- ings in the lfland towards Gottenburg. And if they con- tinue to build with Freeftone.they will flill furpafs thefe, which, rle aflureyou, are in no fmall meafure beauti- ful.

I faw a Globe to be fold, made by Vingbomes , between fix and feven foot Diameter, valued at Sixteen thoufand Guldens: The Meridian alone, being of brafs, coft a thoufand Guldens. The Globe is made of Copper-plates excellently well painted , with all the new Difcoveries in it, as that of jlnthony Van Dimom Land, found out 1 642. in 42 degrees of Southern Latitude, and 1 7oof Longitude, thofe towards the Northweft of Japan, and thofe places both about AT* Z. and alfo in theTartarian Sea beyond the Streights of Vojgais, New- Holland, WeJl-FrieJland^Cape d'Ryveri&c, but 1 have fince met with a Book , which

doth

(r$ )

doth fomewhat contradift this; entituled ATi>yage into the Northern Countries by MonjieurMdiXtiMexz, who went in one of the three fhips belonging to the NoribernCompany of Copenhagen^ in the year 1653. and by that means had occafion toconverfe with the Norwegians,] (lander s\ Lap- landers} Kilops , Borandians , Siberians, Zemblians , and Samojedes, who are Neighbours to the Tartars and Tin* gorjes , in his 46 Chapter he exprefieth himfelf after this manner. There having fallen into my hands feveral Geo- graphical Charts of fundry eminent and much celebrated Authors, I am much amazed to fee how they are miftaken in the pofitionof Zembla , which they place much nearer the North Po’re than really it is ; they divide it likewife by the Sea from Greenland \ and place it far diftant from it, when as indeed thofe two Countries are Contiguous * theCoaftsof Greenland buttingupon the Coafts of Zem- bla, fo as did not the great quantity of Snow 3 and the violence of the cold render thofe Borders uninhabitable, thepalfage would be very eafie by Land from Greenland to Zembla , and from Zembla paffing the Pater-nojler Mountains to enter into Samojedia, from thence into Tar* tary or ^Mufiovy, as one pleafed : But of the truth of this weffiallbe further informed at the return of Captain Wood,

I was amazed likewife to fee they had deferibed the Streight called Voygat , not above ten French Leagues in length, whereas it contains above five and thirty Dutch Leagues, which is fix times as much. Again, they would

perfwadeus that through that Streight our fliips might pafs into the great Tartarian Ocean , which is a miftake. And although they indeed do affirm that in the time of Prince Maurice of Najfau, a Dutch VefTel pafied that way into that Ocean, yet it is a manifeft errour , that Streight being bounded %- as I faid before, by the JPater-nopp

Mountains^

- * (16)

Mountains, which are half a League high, and the tops of them covered with perpetual Snow, which never dif- folves. And of this I can give a pofitive teftimony, ha- ving beenmyfelf in that Streight under thofe Mountains in the Dog-days, which is the hotted time of the year.

From the Steeple of the Old Church of Amjlerdamy I had a good profpeft of the Town, and the great number of (hips lying upon one fide of it, like a Wood; and all the Towns about it. The Roofs .of the Houfes being iharp , it is a moft uneven Town to be looked upon downward, as it is a handfomeoneto be looked on up- ward; and is not fodivertifing or pleafing to the fighr? as fome Towns in France and Italy, which have flatter Rooftj or elfe are covered with a fine black Slat or Ar- doife. Upon this, and all other Towers of the Town, a Trumpet is founded at Midnight, and in other parts of the City at fix a Clock night and morning* At eleven a clock, the time of going on to the Exchange , there is vgood Mufick at the StadthuU^ given by the Earl of Lei - eejler . They make good Harmony alfo every hour in playing upon their Chimes and Bells in moft Steeples, And there is a Mufick-houfe or Enterraining-houfe, where any one is admitted for a Stiver, hears moft forts of Mu- fick, feethmany good Water- works, and divers motions by Clock-work, Figures, and other Di ver tifements.

During my flay at Amjlerdam, I had the opportunity of feeing divers Learned Men , and Perfons of Note, Dr* us many Curiosities in Anatomy , . as

the Skeletons of young Children, and Eatw’s of all A- gcs, neatly fet together, and very white ; the Lywpba- tick veffels fo preferved, as to fee the valves in them* A Liver excarnated, fhowing the Minute veffels, all fliining vand clear. The Mufcles of Children diflefled and kept

(17)

from corruption : entire Bodies preferved ; the face of one was very remarkable, without the lead fpot or change of colour or alteration of the lineaments, from what might be expefied immediately after death : he had then kept it two years, and hoped it would fo continue. Dr« Swammerdam flhewed us divers of his Experiments which he hath fet down in bis Treatife De Re (pir&tione ; and a very fair Collection of Infefis brought from feveral Countries; a Staggfly of a very great bignefs ; a w Indi- an Seolofendria, or forty feat ; a fly called Ephemeron , and many other Curiofities. Old Glawber the Chymifl fliew- ed us his Laboratory: And we received much civility from Elafm the Phyfick ProfefiTour who hath wrote a -Comment upon Vefltngm ,

The Jews live more handfomly and fpfendidly here , than in any other place : Their chief Synagogue is large, adorned with Lamps of Brafs and Silver, We happen- ed to be there at the Feaft of their Newyear ; fo that their blowing of Horns , flhowting and Tinging was not omitted : Some of them underftand divers Languages.

I faw one Mofes di Pas, a Learned young Man,and Orobu a Phyfician of Note, And I was forry to fee divers here to profefsthemfelves publicity Jews, who had lived at leaft reputed Chriftians, for a long time in other places.6 One who had been a francifian Frier thirty years ; and another who had been ProfeflTour fome years at iholouze , and before that Phyfician to the King of Spam. Judo, Leo a Jew, hath taken great pains in making a Model of the Temple of Solomon , of Solomon's Houfe, the Fort of the Temple, the Tabernacle, the Ifraelites encamping , and other Curiofities. I was prefent at the Circumcifi- on of a Child 3 which is performed by thrufting a Probe in between the Gians and Pr<eputium, and feparating it, or dilating the Pr<epttfim, fo as the inward Skin may be

D drawn

08)

drawn forward as well as the outward; then by apply* ing an Inftrument joynted like a Carpenters Rule, or a Seftor, the Skin is held faft beyond the Gians, and with a broad Incifiomknife, or Circumcjfion- knife , the Foreskin is cat off clofe to the Inftrument ; and what remains of Skin is immediately put back, the blood flop- ped with Powders, and a Plaiflerapplyed $ the Relations and Acquaintance finging al! the while , whereby the cries of the Infant are lefs heard.

Leaving AmJlerdam , I palled by a peculiar Burial- place of the Jews, who are not permitted to interr their dead within the Walls , by Overskerk , Earn burg, and in fix or feven hours arrived at Utretcht , in a Boat drawn with Horfies through artificial Cuts of Water, which is the way of Travelling in Holland , Utretcht , and divers other Provinces of the Lorn- Countries.

Utretcht is an ancient, large, handfome City, and chief of the Province of the fame name, called formerly Anto- nina, and afterwards Mltraje&um . Long famous for its

Epifcopal See founded by Dagobert King of France , who endowed it richly with Lands and PofiefTions: Wtliebald , \

oi Willebrode an Englifhman, was their firft Bifliop, who converted thefe Countries unto Chriftianity ; and tte following Biiliops grew fo powerful, that they were able to bring many choufand men into the field, and to wage great Wars againft the Counts of Holland: Their Suc- ceffion alfo continued for above Nine hundred years* It is now an llniverfity, founded by the States in the Year 169 6-* f fiiall not trouble you with the Names of the Pro* fefiTors 5 the Learned Mr, Ray, whom I had the honour to meet in divers places abroad , having already caufed to be printed the Series Leffionumof this and many other ilniverfiues in the Low-Countries, Germany , and Italy , in his Observations topographical, Moral, Fbyfiological ,

fet

C r9 )

fet forth 1673. The great Church hath a very high Tower, or three Steeples one above another : From the higheft of which I had not only a good fight of the Town it felf, which lay under mine Eye like a Platform, but of many others a! fo 3 Utretcbt being in a plain fiat Country, and fo well feated,and encompaffed with fo populous a Country, that in a days Journey a man may go from hence to any one of fifty walled Towns and Cities. The Engli(h Church here is an ancient Building; the Pillar in the middle of it, whofe Foundation could not be laid but upon Balls- hides, is muchtaken notice of: ft was built 1099. and hath the PiSureof a Bull upon ic with this in- fcription s

Accipe Pofteritas quod per tun fiecula narres r

T aurink ctti'ibus fundo fo lid at a columns eft.

There is an old Library belonging to this Church, which containeth divers old Books and Manufcripts, A large Bible in fix Volumes, painted and gilded after a very ancient manner: Two Idols taken (in time of war) long fince in Germany, and given to this place by the Emper- our Henry the Fourth, are worth the feeing, not fo much for their neatnefs, as their Antiquity and odd fhape: As alfo a Horn made out of a Tooth, faid to be given at the fame time* There are alfo three Unicorns Horns, little differing in length $ the longeft being five foot and an half : I drank out of one of them, the end being tipp’d with Silver, and made hollow to ferve for a Cup. Thefe were of the Sea Unicom , or the Horn or long wreathed Tooth of fome Sea- Animal much like it, taken in the Northern Seas; of which I have feen many , bothinPublickRepo- fitories, and in Private Hands. Two fuch as thefe, the one Ten foot long, were prefented not many years fince

D 2 * to

(20 )

to the King of Denmark , being taken near to Nova Zem* bU ; and I have feen fome full fifteen foot long ; fame wreathed very thick, fome not fo much, and others al- moft plain : Some largeft and thickeft at the End near the head; others are largeft at fome diftance from the Head; Some very fharp at the end or point , and others blunt. My honoured Father SirT. B. hath a very fair piece of one which was formerly among the Duke of CurUnds Rarities, but after that he was taken Prifoner by Doug «* tm in the wars between Sweden and Poland^ it came into a Merchants hands, of whom my Father had it , he hath alfb a piece of this fort of Unicorns Horn burnt black, out of the Emperour of Ruffians Repnfitorie, given him by Dr. Arthur Dee , who was Son to Dr. John Dee 5 and alfo Ehyfician to the Emperour of Ruffia, when his Chambers were burned, in which he preferved his Curioftties. I have feen a walking Staff, a Scepter, a Scabbard for a Sword, Boxes, and other C'uriofities made out of this Horn, but was never fo fortunate as from experience to confirm its Medical Efficacy againft Poyfons, contagious Difeafes, or any other evident effeft ofir, although I have known it given fieveral times 5 and in great quanti- ty; But of thefe Unicorns Horns no man fure hath fo great a Colleftion as the King of Denmark 5 and his Fa- ther had fo many, that he was able to fpare about an hun- dred of them, to build a Magnificent Throne out of U- nhorm Horns.

I had the honour to fee divers Ferfonsof Note in this City ; as D. Cyprunus ab Oojlergo , Dr. Regius , Voetius , the only Member then left alive of the Synod of J9*r*,and others; but miffed the fight of the Learned Anna Maria SkurmtM) who was then gone outof Town, and was for- ced to content my felf with beholding her Pifiure, well drawnfcy her own hand, with this Infcripxion ©f hers un- iter it o° Gernitu

f2r)

CernitU hie filta nofires in Imagine vultm\

Si negat ars formant gratia veltra dabit.

The Painters Hall is confiderable, wherein are many good pieces to be feen of fevera] Matters ; Amongft which there are good Heads by Van Colw and Trnrt ; Land* skips by Soft-lever *, and good Drapery, efpecially in feme Turkish Habits, by Van der Mere .

This Town is alfo beautified with a fair Piazza of Market-place, divers long Streets, and a Fall-mail with five rows of Trees on each fide. In the Church of St. Katherine is the Tomb of my Lord Gorge* Though I had feen France and ltaly> and the Noble Cities thereof, which are worthily admired by all, yet I was much far- pmed upon the firft fight of the United Provinces , efpe* dally of HcHand, and the adjoyning places. He that bathobferved the eafie accommodation for Travel there- in, both by Land and Water , their excellent order and regular courfe in all things; the number of Learned men; the abundance of Varieties in all kinds $ the induftry , frugality , and wealth of the people ; their numerous good Towns; their extraordinary neatnefs in their Build- ings and Houfes $ their proper Laws and adminiflration of Juftice; and their incredible Number of Shipping and Boats, will think it an omiflion to reft in the fight of other Countries without a view of this* A Country of little extent, and foon travelled over, Jbut fo replenifhed with People, with good Cities, fair Towns and Villages* as not to be met with upon fo little a compafs of ground, except perhaps in China .

From Utrecht, in two hours, l came to Frijwkk9 and paffed over the River Leek to Vimcn, where there ts lit- tle- remarkable befidesthe Houfe and Gardens of Gount

(22)

Brederode , one of the Ancient Nobility of HolUnd} or, according to common efteem, of the moft Noble Family of all ; the Family of the Egmnds being formerly efteem- ed the Richeft ; thcWajfenaer s the moft ancient, and the Brederodes the Nobleft. The Mount in this Garden fer- veth for the Rampart to the Town, and on a round Bull • rvark are divers finall brafs Guns planted. The Statua's of the twelve Cafars, of AriJlotley the Pyramids and Par- titions, with the Paintings upon the wall, are the reft of its Ornaments,

From hence I pafled ft ill by Boat through the Land of Arkel^ fome Fay, derived from Hercules , belonging for- merly to the Lords of Gorchom and Jrkeland , till by $jMa- ry , daughter to the laft Lord of Arkeland \ it fell to John Lord of Egmond , and afterwards was fold to William the fixth Earl of Holland I arrived this night at Gorchom , a Town well feared, near three Rivers, the Ling , the Wael, and the Maes. The Market-place is fair ; the Stadt - huts is funk fomewhat on ooefide. The Governour hath a good Houfe, and the Church a very high thick Steeple; the Works are of Earth ; the Warer-gate is handfome, and over it in Great Letters is this Infcription $

Chit as in qua maximi Gives legibus parent^ & in pacebeata, & bellotnvi&u, 1642.

The more remarkable becaufe it made good its Infcrip- tion in the year 1672. when Louis the Fourteenth, King of France, came down with fo powerful an Army into the Low-Countries, that in that Summers Expedition he took thirty walled Towns and Cities , this Water-gate being the Limit to his Conquefts this way, beyond which Siis Forges were not able to attempt any thing.

Leaving

(23)

Leaving G or cum, I pafied by Worcum , on the other fide of the River, and then by the Caftle of Lovejleyn , ftrongly feated and well fortified; and therefore hath been often made ufe of to fecure Ferfons of Note. Sir George A [cue of late years fuffered his Imprifonment here- in, and formerly Barnevelt ; upon which occafion this Caftle hath been much fpokenof, and hath given the name to that wholeparty who fided with him, well knowaatpre- fent by the name of the Lovejlein Faftion. Faffing on fur- ther up the Mats, l 1 tkProye on the left hand, and Hue [den on the right, and the next day morning arrived at th eBefch.

Hertogen Bofch , Sylva, Ducts , Bo [cum Duck, Eoijle - due , Bolduc , takes its name from a Wood belonging to the Dukes of Brabant : It is a ftrong pleafant City , feated upon the River Dija or Deefe 9 which entreth the Maes, about two Leagues below it ; one of the greateft Cities in Brabant-, and for its ftrengtb, for which ’c is be- holden both to Nature and to Art, the States of the Uni* ted Provinces po fiefs not any one more confiderable , and is a very good Frontier againft all Enemies on this fide It is encompafied on all Tides with Fenns and Marfhy Grounds. The Avenues to it are by narrow Caufies , made turning and winding, to be commanded in all pla- ces by one or other of the fix Sconces or Forts built at fomediftance without the Town for its greater Security. Befides which, the Hollanders having fome reafon to be jealous of the Inhabitants, whofeafFeflions might incline them towards the neighbouring Princes, of whofe Reli- gion moft of them are, they have built a Citadel within the Town, a Briel or pair of Spe&acles to look more ac- curately into their Affairs. It is a handfom regular Fort of five Baftions, each Curtain is 84 ordinary paces long 1 the Faces of each Baftion 6 35 and the Flank or Neck 24, There is a handfome Houfe of Stone for the Gentry

04)

at the point of each Baftion, and the middle of each Cur- tain* every one of which coft Seven hundred Guldens. Here is alfo a Field Canon of an extraordinary length, faid tobe able to fting a Bullet almoft as far as Bommel. The Piazza in this Town is Triangular,,

ThisGity was made an Episcopal See, 15 59. The Ca- thedral is Dedicated to St. John. In the Quire are paint- ed the Arms of many of the Knights of the Golden Fleece ♦ And over the upper Stalls or Seats, an Infcription in French , which contains the Hiftory of the firft Inftituti- on5 and Model of this Order 3 by the'moft High and mighty Prince Fhilip the Good, Duke of Burgundy , Lc- rain, and Brabant: Befides divers Statua’s and Pillars. There arealfo feveral Monuments of the Bifhops of Bojche .and others.

This Town was taken from the King of Spain by the Forces of the Confederate Effaces, intheyear 162S. af- ter a long and chargeable Siege ; in which the little Sconce, one of the Forts towards the South, did excel- lent Service.

Diversof the Nuns were ftill alive in this Town, but at Utretcht they were all dead.

From the Bojche we travelled through a plain Country, fomewbat Sandy, to Breda upon the River Merc\: A place very confiderable, pleafantly feated, and well- fortified. It hath formerly had more Outworks than at prefent : For they have taken away the Crown-works, and left only the Half-moons and Horn* works* and Con- ferves or Contregards about the Half-moons. There is a large Ditch of Water round the Counterfcarp, and a finall Ravelin between each Baftion, joyned to the Ram- part within fide of the Ditch. There is alfo a double Hayeor Quickfet hedge almoft quite round the Town,be* fides Palifados.The P^^is very thick, and ftrengthned

with

C if )

wUh a row of litm- and feconded with soever row it three or four yards diftance, round the Town} the bo* dies of the Bafliws are funk down or hollowed away, and filled with a thicket of Elms. The Half Moons are the like without the Town, and after all, a brelt-work between the Town and the Bafims $ and Cavaliers upon feveral places of the Rampart.

This Town belongeth unto the Prince of Orange , un- to whom it hath defcended by the right of the houfe of Najfaw , by the Marriage of Engelbert the feventh Earle of that houfe , with §J Mary daughter and Heir of Philip the laft Lord thereof, about the year 1400. It was taken by th $ Spaniards in the beginning of the Low Country Wars , and was afterwards Surprifed by the Dutch , by a ftratagem performed by eighty men bid in a Boat covered over with Turf , and fo let into the Caftle. In the year 1625. the Spaniards took it again, as by la* fcriptions and Chronograms are to be feea in divers places, as that over the door of the Church,

aMbrefl fplmhce PigihaniU breDa eXpUgmts.

As alfo this,

PhlLlppUs hlfpmU reX gUkernante IJabeLLa Chard EUgenla Infanta , obflDente fplwLa Maternls regl*. bUs frit fir a Cm\Urmt\hUs he Da ViGtor pot It Ur,

Afterwards it was befieged and taken by Frederhk Hess- drhk Prince of Orange , as an Infcription at the Weft end of the Church fets it down.

Jnxilu film Dei , Mfpmh eesrftderaU Belgij, Ferdwm-- da Anfirmo Hifiams infanta em ingentl exemtu fmftu

E fuseurrent §

OO

j fuccurrente,* lulij 2 3 obfejjamad 19 Angufli eppugnatam. Fredericus Henricus i'rinceps arallflUs breDaM eX- pllgnatfeXta OCtobrls .

The Church is fair a.id hath many good Monuments, as Reneffes Tombe ; a Monument for Sir T homas Alejbury fetup by the Lord Chancellor Hide ; an old Tombe e- refted 1349, for John Lord of Lech and Breda, ; the Tombe of Grave EnglebergVan Aajjarr and his family on the fide of the Wall ; the Here Van Horne and his three Wives; but the Principal Monument is that of Grave Hendrick Van Naffaw y whofe Armour is fupporc- ed by four Warriers upon their Knees ; he built theCa- ftleof Breda , which is at prefent both ftrong and beau- tiful ; 1 obferved the place where the Turfe-Boat came in, and where the Prince cameover into the Town. The Gallery, the Garden, theWaks, and Dials are worth the feeing, the Town is handfomely built , populous, and generally hath a great Garrifon in it.

Leaving Breda we footi came by Land to St . Gertruyden - berg the iaft Town on the North of Brabant , where it joy neth to the Province of Holland , a fmall place, but a good Town for fifliing , lying upon a Hill near the great broad Water called de Waert , made by the falling of the Mats and many other Rivers into it. This Town is fortified and Garrifoned. The Church and Steeple have been Large and fair , and the ruines of the latter are obfervable,in regardtbat this Steeple was (hot down by a Stratagem of the Prince of Orange , while the Governour and chief of the Town were upon it , to obferve a falfe a- larm In the Prince’s Gamp , and fo loft themfelves and the Town. We Paffed from hence over a large Water which hath overflow’d a great part of the Country upon #nefideofit, aolefs than feventy two Parifhes being

drowned

( 27 )

drowned at once , the Village of Ramfdun onefy efcapi ng, and fo by an old Tower called the houfe of Murney , to the Maiden To wn of Dort , or Dordrecht.

Dordracum , fo called by fome from Duriov Dureti forum , at prefent ZVf , being feated in the Waves of thofe great Lakes made by the Maes and Waal, is not unaptly from its fituation compared to a Swans neft, it is reckoned the firft and chief Town of South Holland, in refpeft of its antiquity , as having ferved to fecure Odo~ cer in his retreat almoft: eight hundred years fin ce , and alfo inrefpeft of its Priviledges, in having the Mint here, and being the Staple for Rhenifh wine and Englifli Cloath.

In this Town are many fair honfes and pleafant Gar- dens. The great Church is large, the Steeple 312 fteps high 5 the top thereof being made of four large Dy~ alls. There is alfo an Exchange or Place for Merchants to meet. The English have two Churches , and the French one. The Key or Head to the water fide is handfome, and the Country about very pleafanr«we faw the Chamber wherein the Synod of Dort was affembled 16 r i. a large fair room ; and took a collation in the fame houfe , in a high turret overlooking the Town and Coun- try: Our feats Moving round about the Table continu- ally; fo as the diverfity of the profpeS made it more delightful. The great VefTels round-bellied, which trade between Coin and this City feemed ftrange 5 as alfo the long Lujck or Liege- boats ; and the number of Peo- ple that continually live in them. At my going a way from hence I embarked in a VeflTel bound for the Ifland of Walcheren , fayling by mod of the Iflands of Zealand and in fight of divers good Towns, as Willemjtadt, Zirick - ze, Tergoes \ observing in fome places where the Sea bad overflow’d the Land, and in others where the Induftry of

E 2 the,

<2i)

the Inhabitants ftill keep it out , by keeping up theit banks , and thatching he Shoars of the Sea. We Land- ed at ter- Vere, where there is a good Haven and Harbour for Ships, the Walls were built in the year 1357, to- wards the Sea are round towers. The Piazza is long. The Scotch have had a Factory here for above two hun- dred years, and the Marquifs of this Place did formerly make one of the three States, by which Zealand was Go- verned. The Abbot of St Nicholas in Middlehurg re- prefenting the Ecclefiaftical jurifdiftion , and the Towns of Middlehurg, Zirickzee , Ter- V ter , fluffing , Tolen, Martins- di^e , Romerfival and Tcrgces , fupplying the Third: over againft this place where a Town had former- ly funk into the Sea, the Steeple only remaineth to be feen. From hence to Middlehurg the way is Paved with Brick ; as it is alfofrooi Town to Town in moft places of Holland.

Middlehurg is the chief Town in the Ifland Walacbria, feated almoftinthemiddleofit, being well built , large, rich , and Populous, it is the fourth Port for the Eafi- India trade : hath a large, broad Water within the Town, and a {freight cut through the Land to carry VefieTs ourto Sea , the whole is very w'ell Fortified , the Officers here are chofen by Strangers or Foreigners , the Churches are many and remarkable, the new Church is of aneight- fquare figure with a Cupola, the Tower of the old great Church very high, the Stadthuife with the old ftatuas, a* bout it , the round Piazza, and many private buildings are Confiderable , and the whole Country about it is fruitful; either divided into Gardens and Orchards, or Planted with Madder, Pompons, ox Grain and Fruits. The Zealanders are generally addifted to the intereft of the Prince of Orange , and great Lovers of his Perfon. I found them not a little delighted that the Prince had beea

witfe

(29)

with them fome days before, and was made Premier Noble, or chief of the Srares of Zealand ; which was chiefly brought about , as I was informed , by Penjicner Hubert^ Le Sage, Duvelaer and Frit bergen , formerly no great friends to the Prince, efpecially Vruhergen , who was the mod earned of any to bring him in , in defpite to the Hollanders , for Genera! Worts his fake , who be- ing fee over the Zealand forces by thofe of Jmjlerdam , lately affronted Vriebergens Son who was a Colonekac the head of his Regiment. I w as entertained at Middle - burg very courteoufly by Mo Hill the Minifter, who alfo fent his Kinfman with me to Fluffing. Flijfinga or Fluf- fing, hath Srone-WaIs towards the Sea, and Mudworks towards the Land ; a very good Port , and a ftrong Town; the waves of the Sea wafting its walls-, it was oneof the firft Towns which the Low Country men took from the Spaniards , in the year i $72 , and was made Cautionary to Queen Elizabeth together with Rammakins and the Briel [ 1585. The renowned Sr. Philip Sidney be- ing the firft Governour of it , and furrendred by King James to the United ftates* 16 r6* The Sea ftoar here a* bouts is not only faced with ruftes, fliggsand reeds flaked down as high as the Tide ufually arifeth, but it is alfo ftrongly bound over withOfiers and hurdles and great Pofts driven in t© break the force of the Water, and fecure the Piles which make the Harbour or Havens mouth. The Town-houfe is handfomely built , fhnding in the Piazza , having three rowes of Pillars in the Front one above another ; the Lower Dortch , the fecond l<b nkk , and the higbeft Corinthian ; and on the top there is a Gallery or Balcony to Difcover ftips at Sea. This is the third Port for the Ea fr-lndi* trade ; Amfterdam and Rotterdam being the firft and fecond : here lay many great ftips in the middle of the Town, and eonfiderable

mm

( 3° )

men of War ] as the St. Patrick , and the Admiral of Zealand : we faw them alfo building of divers fliips, and when the Prince was here, they Lanched one to diver- tife him , to which he gave the name of William Frederick , they alfo prefented him with a Golden Bottle $ that be- ing the Arms of the Town : the Prince Landed at tnuyden and went from thence to Tergoes , and thence to Breda 3 they reported his entertainment in IValcheren a» mounted to fifty thoufand Gu'dens. The Women in this Jfland wear moftof them red Gloth and ftraw-Hats , if a Man dies a great bundle of Straw is layd at the Door, ifaBoy , a littieone , ifa Woman, the draw lies on the left fide of the Door : when any Woman is brought to bed; they fallen a piece of Lawne to the ring and rapper of the Door ; and make it up into a little baby or puppet finely pleated, and in fuch manner , as todiftinguifh of what fex the young Child is.

Returning to Middlebttrg by Land I obferved there was a row of Trees round the Town between the moat and rampart, where ordinarily there is only a bread- worke or a hedge, and embarked at Middleburg again, and pa{Ted down the River by the fort Rammakins , and fo for the Schelde^ Sayling up that noble River till we had patted the Fort Frederick lienrick and came to Lille; where we ftayd till the Vetted was fearched. Over a* gainft Lille 9 lyeth another Fortification, called Lifgens %eek ; the Fort de la croix is the lad that belongeth to the Hellanders , and lieth on the Norih fide of the River;the Banks are cut nigh to it , and the Country drowned for its greater fecurity. The Spanijb Forts hereabouts to defend the Frontiers, are the Philip ji\\t Pearl, and the Maria .

The River Scaldis or Scheld mentioned by C<efar is ft gallant River^affording plenty of fifh , and convenience

for

(30

for Navigation and pafTageunto feveral noted places: It arifeth in the Country of Vermandois, palling to Cambrap Valencienne , fo to 'tour nay or Vornick , Qudenard , Gaunt , Rupelmond and Jntwerp 0 and pmrfuing its courfe is afterwards divided into two dreams , w hereof the Southern is called the Hont^he other runs by Bergen apZome , and fo into the Sea between thelfles of Zea- land.

The next day morning we w>ent on our Voyage ftillup the Scaldis or Schelde , and arrived at dntvperp „ Where I had the good fortune to fee Mr. Ilartop^ one very wed known in all thofe parts and of high efteem for hisperfo* nal ftrength and valour. A Gentleman alfofo courteous chat he makes it his bufinefs to oblige Grangers; he fiiew'd me many curiofities in this City, carrying me with him in his Coach.

The Walls of Antwerp are very large, faced with Brick and freeftone, having divrs rowsof Trees upon them* broad walks 3 and conveniences for the Caches, to make their tour upon. The Bajlions are not fo large as generally they build now a dayes, yet after the modern way. The Ditch is very broad and deep5the Country about it, all Gardens^ The Chtadel is a regu-

lar fortification of five Bajlions , wherein liesalwayesa Garrifon of Spanijb Soldiers: upon every curtain there are two mounts or Cavaliers; and between them below* a row ofbuilding or lodgings for the Soldiers ^ the ears of the Bafiions are cut down, and Cafamates made, and Palifados fet round upon the Efplanade; the Walls are lined yvith excellent Brick andftone, nor is there any where a more regular beautifull Fortification of five Ba* fitons that is finished: it commands the City, the Rk- ver and the Country : befides this Cittadtl there is ana® ther Fort within the Town near the Schcld> to command

the ■

Cp)

the River , having eight Guns in it » called St, Lamm

Fort.

The Exchange is handfome,fupported by 36 Pillars e» very one of a different carving, four ftreecs lead unto it, fo that Handing in the middle we fee through every one of them. TheMeer or Largeft ftreet isconfiderable for the water running under it, and for the meeting of Coaches upon it every evening to make their tour through the ftreets of the City, which are clean and beautiful; at one end ofit ftands a large Brafs Crucifix upon a Pedeftall of Marble.The JefuitesChurch goeth far beyond any of that bignefs that 1 have feen out of Italy. The Front is noble, wuh the Statua of Ignatius Loyola on the top, A great part of theinfideof the Roof was painted by Rubens, and forae of it by Van Dyke : there be many Excellent peeces of flowers done by Segers a lefuite \ the Carving and gilding of all the works is exquifice; The Library of the Colledge is great,& the Books difpofed handfome- ly into four Chambers | the Founder hereof was God- fridus Houtappel, wbofe Monument, together with his Wife and Children are worth the feeing, in a Chappel on the South fide of this Church. In the Church of the Carmelites is a large Silver Status of our Lady , and models of Cityes in ftone. Onfar Lieven Vrorvcn Kerch , or the Church of our hleffed Lady is the greatefl in the City 1 and the Steeple one of the feireft in the World, five hundred foot high ? one of their feet is eleven of our inches 1 fo as it is 459 of our feet, Jn this Church there

is much Carving , and a great number of PiSures highly efteemed , among which one piece is much taken notice of, drawn by jgji wint'tn , at firft a Smith , who made the neat Iron work of the Well before the Weft door § and afterwards to obtain bis Miftrefs, he proved a famous Painter ; bis head is fee up in Stone at the entrance of

the

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the Church , with an infcription and this verle.

Conmb'ulu mor de Mnlcibre fecit Apeilem.

I was at the famous Abby of St. Michael , pleafantly fea ted upon the Scheldt where among other curiofities, Ifawaglafs, which reprefented the Pi&ures of our S*~ viour and the Virgin Mary , colle&ed from the Putting together of divers other heads : One was reprefented from a Pidlure wherein were thirteen faces , and another from one of twelve- over the blefTed Virgin was this In- fcription.

Diva nitet variis exprejfa Maria Figuris .

The Countefs ofFr^/tf *Tombe,who was drowned, and her Statu a , as alfo the Monument of Qrtelius, are here ILewn. Macarius Stmoneus was then Abbot, the Monks 63. Near unto the Wharf-gate is the Church of St. Wal- hurgis an English Saint , who contributed much towards the converfion of thefe Countries.

TheTown-houfe is fair, the Houfe built for the Eaft- country Merchants is very (lately and large , but runneth now to mine, in this I faw among other curiofities, divers ftrange Mufical inftruments, which at prefent are not underftood , or at leaft not made ufe of; The Heffen houfe hath been alfo formerly confiderable. The water which they make ufe of in Brewing, is brought by an Aquedudt from Her entail about thirty miles diftant from hence; and is conveyed into the Town by a large Chan- nel , peculiarly walled in by it felf where it pafTech the Ditch 3 in this City are many good Colleftions ofPift- ures both Ancient and Modern, and excellent Mini- ature or Limning b yGon[ol> one fine piece , which !

F faw

( 34 )

faw was peculiarly remarkable s it being the work of 35 feveral Matters.

From jdntwerp , I paffed to Brujfels by water, chang- ing Boats five times , and going through divers locks, by reafon that the Country is fa much higher about Brufiels, and the water above two hundred foot lower at Antwerf. At Fontaine aledgueandhalf from Bruffeis, three Rivers crofs one another: one of them being carried over a bridg. The Piazza of Brujfels is fair . and oblong in fi- gure j upon one of the longeft fides ftands the Town- houfe, and over again fi it the Kings-houfe, whereupon a Scaffold hanged wiih Velvet, Count, Fgmoni and Horne were beheaded , the whole Piazza being hanged with BkckCloth.Upon the top of theTown-houfe, (lands St Michael the Patron of the City in Brafs, Count Marfins houfe formerly belonging to the Prince of Orange $ hath a fair Court, and overlooks a good pare of the City , but a quarter of it is ruined by Lightning. The Thunderbolc or Stone which they affirm to have effeOed it, is bigger than two Mens heads , and hangs up upon the door at the ^entrance. The lejuites Church is hand Pome , and in it the fair white Tower is beautifully gilded' a- the top. The Carmelites Church hath a noble Altar , and near unto the Church is the Statua ofa piffingboy , which isacon- tinual Conduit. The Armory was well furnifhed, as we were informed, before the Governours of the low Coun- tries fold the Arms, and Cafjel Roderigo theGovernour left it very bare. There remains the Armour of Charts the fifth, of Duke Albert, of the Prince of Parma , £>- nejius , and of the Duke £ Alva and of the Duke Alberts horfe who being (hot Paved his Matter , and died the fame day twelve month ; Spears for the hunting the wild Boar, one with two Piftols ; The Armour of Cardinal Infan- te 1 and of an Indian King > A Polijb musket which carri

C 35 )

! eth fix hundred paces 5 Charles the Fifth's Sword for the I making the Knights of the Golden Fleece , and Henry the | Fourth's Sword fent to declare war , Good Bucklers for Defence, and fome well wrought; efpecially one with the Battel of Pyrrhus and his Elephants ; and Banners ta- j ken with Francis King of France , at the Battel of Pa- via.

Somewhat like Godfrey of Bouillons floating the three Pigeons near the Tower of David, [$ the fhot which Infanta Ifabella nude, when with an Arrow fhe killed a

I Bird, in memory whereof, a Bird pierced with an Ar* row is fee upon the top of a Tower in the Court, which is large ; and if the New Buildings and Defign were con- tinued, it would be very handfouie. Before the Court (land five brafs Statues. The Park is pleafant , with Trees fet in order, and adorned with Grotto’s, Foun- tains, and Water-works, which come very near the Ita- lian ; one piece fomewhat imitating Frafcati , in which | all Mufical Infirumcnts are imitated, and a perpetual mo* non attempted ; and on the Front of the Buildings (land the Cafars head^. But the Eccho is mofl remarkable ; which may perfefily be difiinguifhed to ten or twelve Replies. The greateft Church is that of St. Gudula in j which is her Statua, the Devil flriving to blow out the Light of her Lanthorn. Two Chappels therein are re- markable ; the one built by Leopoldus, very fair on the outfide: the other towards the North, hath been vifited by five Kings; in which is the Hofi: which bled being ftabbedby the Jews. In the Dominican Church is the Monument of the Duke of Cleve and his Dutchefs, in Co- rinthian brafs. But for a New Church that of the Be- gennesy or Pious Maids, is very confiderable ; there be» Eight hundred of them in this City, whohavea par- ar place allotted to them, where they have built this

F 2

milk

(3 6 )

milk white Church. The Plague was much in this place at that time, three hundred Houfes being fhut up, and a Garland placed on the doors , in the middle of which

t _

was written IHS. I faw the Englijb Nunnery , and o- ther confiderable Buildings. And after 1 had refrefhed my felf at the Fifii-Tavern, which is worth the feeing, efpecially for two Rooms in it , furniflied from top to bottom with very good Piflures , I returned to Jnt* werp.

QUoh* 4. I travelled through an open Country , and jodged at Molin brujle * The Spamjh Souldiers met us upon the Road this day, feme of them well mounted and armed, and begged of us, and were well fatisfied with a final! Benevolence. The next day we entred the Country of Liege , and pafled great Heaths, and on the Sixth, in the morning, arrived at Maefireicbt.

Trajeffumad Mofam , or Maejlreicbt>\s a ftrongTown, feated upon the Maes, four Leagues below Liege. The Gut-works are very confiderable 3 the Wall is old. To- wards the South- ea-ft lyeth a Hill , which ariferh gently , and overlooks part of the Town. Under this Hill is one of the noblefl: Quarries of Stone in the World. To fe- curethe Town from the disadvantage it might receive from this Hill, there was formerly a Fort built upon it, but it hath been long fince flighted ; and they have made out an Horn- work within Musket- fhot of it, and the Ba- il ion anfwering to it is made very high, to cover the Town. On the other fide of the River ftandeth Wicke , very well fortified alfo, and rather ilronger than Mae- ftreiebt, into which they might retire if the Town fhoulcf be taken by Storm , it being united to Maejireicfo by a handfome Bridge over the Maes f confifting of Nine Ar- ches. All about WkJce the Country is flat : there are

many

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many Inhabitants in it, and a handfome Glafs hotsfe.

The private Houfes of Maejlreieht are generally cove- red with a black Slat, or Ardoife, other wife not very beautiful. The Town houfe is fair,, feared in one of the Piazzas, built of white Stone *, it hath Nine large Windowes in a row On each fide, and within is very well painted by Lbeodorus van der Sehuer , who was Painter to the Queen of Sweden. In another j Piaz- za is a Fountain , rows of Trees , and the great Church. This Town was befieged and taken from the King of Spain by the Confederate States , in the year 1632-

October the Seventh I dined at Gallop , a ftnall place * and came that night to Jken , Jix la Chapelle , or jfqutfi grane , an ancient noble City, the Inhabitants Courteous, and much frequented by reafon of its hot Baths, of which I fhall fpeak more particularly in my Journey from Colen to London . Leaving Aken 1 travelled to- wards Juliets or Gulie ^ , but it being late before we arrived , the Gates were flhut up, fo as we went on- ly under the Walls, leaving it on our right hand. Near unto Gulick runneth a fiiallow fwift River, called the Roer. At the Mouth of it, where it fal~ leth into the Maes , is feated a confiderable Town, called Roermonde , through which I pafTed in the year 1673, when Sir Lionel Jenkins and Sir Jofiph Wtl - Ham fin were fent Plenipotentiaries to Cologne , in our Journey from Antwerp to that City. We then paf- fed the Country of Brabant \ by the way of Ikornhaut ~ Weert , Roermonde , and the next Night palling by Erke* lens , lodged at Caftro , or Cafter, in Gulickland, , where there are ftill the remains of an old Caftle, formerly built for the Defence of that part of the Country* Roermonde is feated upon a rifing Hill , near the River

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Reer, hath a Colledge of Jefuits in it, a bandforoe f *#. azza , and an old Abby with divers Monuments very- ancient , founded by Gerard Earl of Guelderland. From this Town their Excellencies w.ere faluted with the Guns from their Walls, charged with Bullets. The Spaniards in moft places ft riving to exprefs the higheft of their refpefts.

From Gulick I travelled to Cologne , where I arrived October the i o th, r 668.

A

COLE ‘N

T O

VI EN

Oltfii Coin, or Colonic Agrippina , was anciently the Capital City of the Ubii, a people who were at firft poflelTed of the Countries now called Berg and March , but being over run by the Ger* mans next to them, Jgrippa , Lieutenant o( Gallia, received them into protefii- on, and placed them upon this fide of the Roman fhoar of the Rhine> where they built this place, and called it Oppidum Ubiorum , and the Romans fearing themfelves here for the defence of the Country, in Honour of A- grippina , daughter to Germanicns , and wife to Claudius , whofe Birth-place it was, gave it afterwards the Name of Colma Agrippina* It isat prefent one of the largeft, if

not

C 4® )

not the greateft, of any City in Germany f fecured to- wards the Land by a high Wall, and two deep Trenches , and towards the Water by a Wall of Stone. The Rhine renders it delightful upon one fide, and divers rows of Trees enclofe the Town towards the Land. They have forne Out-works, as Half-moons and Ravelins* but their bed fecurity is in the great number of men which they are able to raife within tbemfelves. Many of theStreecsare broad, and paved \yith broad ftones.

It received the Chriftian Faith very early, and Ma- ternus was their Bifhop above 1350 years fince , who fubfcribed3amongft others, to the Council of Arles. They have a great number of Churches, and well endowed, which take up a great part of the Town 5 The Prebends 2nd Canons Houfes having in many places Vineyards, and large Gardens adjoyning. Towards the North end of the Town, the Church of Sr* Kunibald is confiderable. The Convent of the Dominicans is fair, and newly built, with a Garden in the Court, and all the Chambers uniform. The jefuites Church is well built and ftored with rich Copes, Altar-pieces, and other Ornaments. In the Church of Sr. Gereon , a Saint of great name here, marty- red about Golen in the time of Maximianus , are about a thoufand Saints heads, and on each fide of the Altar a largeStatua, whereof oneisof a Moor$ and under the Quire another Church. The Convent of the Carmelites is alfo confiderable, wherein the Treaty of Peace was held with good accommodation in it , though with no fuccefs, in the year 1673. In the Church of St. Urfula is her Tonib, and the Tombs of divers of the Eleven thoufand Virgins , martyred by the Huns. Upon the Monument of Sc .Ursula is this Infcription ;

Sepulcrum Santl* Ur fuU indict* Golumb* detetfum*

Upon

C 4* )

Upon many of the Tombs which are old are Croffes and Lamps. Many Bones and Heads of the Martyrs are a!fo kept in thisChurch. The Cathedral is dedicated to St. Peter, and is very large, but not finished. The Body of the Church hath four rows of Pillars within it* The Quire is bandfomeand very high : behind it are believed to be the Tombs of the three Wife men which came from the Eaft to worfhip our Saviour, or the Kings of Arabia, of whom it was prophefied that they fliofrld bring Gifts, commonly called the three Kings of Co ten i Melchior , who offered Gold , Gajpar Frankincenfe, and Balt ha far Myrrhe. Their Bodies, as the account goech, were firft removed to Conjlantinople by Helena the Mother of Cox* jlantine the Great; then to Milan by Euftorfius Bifhop thereof $ and they have now refted at Colen for above five hundred years, being rranflated from Milan hither by Rainoldus Bifiiop of Golen , in the year 1 164. There are alfo. divers other Monuments of Bifhops, and Noble Perfons in Brafs and Stone, and one in the fliape of a Caftle with fix Towers. The Canons of t hisChurch are all Noblemen j among whom the Duke of Nexvhurg , who ordinarily refides at Duffeldorff, about twenty English miles below this City, upon the Rhine , hath two Sons. In a Church dedicated to all the Apoftles, they fhew a Tomb, which being opened by Thieves, intending to plunder it, the woman buried in it arofe up and went home, and lived with her Husband divers years after. In one of the Streets is a Tower, or rather one Tower upon another, which feems to be ancient, now made a Prifon. Upon another Ruine alfo in the Streets lies a Tombemade out of one Stone ; of which fort of Tombs there are ma® ny in this City and other places ; but the greateft number of them I ever faw was at Arles in Provence .

The Senate Houfeis Noble, having a fair Tower upon

O it.

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it, from whence there is a good profpeft over the City. Upon the Front of the Senate Houfe is a Man in Bajfo re - lievQj fighting with a Lyon, who, as it was related to me, was formerly one of theConfuls, who having had a conteft with fome Clergy-men about the Government of the City, on a fuddain they caufed a Lyon to be let in up- on him ; upon which occafion he behaved himfelf fo well* as he delivered himfelf, and flew the Lyon*

The Eleftor or Archbifhopof Golen hath two Palaces in the City,but by agreement between him and the Town* he is not to flay here above three days together. Only this prefent Archbifliop, upon the coming down of the Im- perial Forces, and his lofs of Bonna, rook Sanftuary here in the Convent of Sr, Pantaleon , where he continued a great while.

The City is Imperial and Free, and yet it doth Ho- mage to the Ele&or , much after this Form : We free Ci- tizens of Golen promije to the Archbifbop 5 to be faithful and favourable unto him as long as he preferves us in Right and Honour , and in our ancient Priviledges , Us, our Wives , our Children, and our City of Colen. Moft of the City are of the Roman Church , and the whole Town fo full of Convenes, Churches, Church-men and Reliques, that it is not undefervedly ftyled the Rome of Germany . The Lutherans have alfo a Church within the Walls , and the Calvinijls at Mulheim , half a League down the Stream on the other fide of the Rhine .

Over againft Colen lieth Dutz , a fmall Village, inhabi- ted chiefly by Jews. The VefTels which come out of the Lovo-Countries hither are long, round bellied, and of great burden. Near to the Wall of the Town, upon the Quay or Key, is a kind of Harbour made for them, into which they may be drawn, and efcape the Injuries they would otherwifefufferbv the Ice in Winter*

Befidef

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Befides the rich Clergy, there are many wealthy Citi- zens and Merchants here, and they maintain a Traffick and Correfpondence with divers Countries, efpecialiy by the convenience of the Rhine* They fpeak not the beft High-dutch 5 but Latin and French are underload by many : Divers Hefts in Inns fpeak Latin , and the Ser- vants French ; which proves a good help unto Travellers It was made an llniverfity about the year rgS8, Befides the General Hofpitalsforyourjgand old pe-rfons, there are two for the Sick, and well accommodated. They have a Fharmaccpxa Colonienjis , or a Difpenfatory proper to the place, whereby Apothecaries compound their Medicines.

1 wasacquainted with one of the beft, Mr, Elburg ^ a knowing and obliging perfon, who was his Majefties A- pothecary while he refided at Colen 5 and whom my honoured Friend Sir Alexander Frafer , his Majefties chief Phyfician, made ufe of, who lived in great reputation in this City,

Two hundred years fince sALneas Sylvius left an high expreffion concerning this place, Colonid c/u<z de conjuge Claud ii 024/re Neronis , Agrippina diffa eft , & triam Magorum ojjibusilluftrata , nihil magnificent i us, nihil orna - tins 5 tot A Europe reperm : which though, if ftri&ly conftrued, will hardly be admitted by any who hath be- held Faris, Naflesi Venice , &c.yet doth it declare the no- blcnefsof this City, even in former times.

We left Colen about four a Clock in the Afternoon, {be- ing drawn up the Stream with Horfes, they being made faft by a very long Rope to the Maft; we lodged in a final! Village, having had a good profpeft of Colen all this Evening from off the water. Near to this Place Ju- lius Cafar made his Bridge over the Rhine . The next day we came to Bon , the Seat of the prefent Archbifhop andEleftorof Colon, Maximilianus Henricus , Duke of

G 2 Bwtria,

£44)

Bavaria , Bifihop of Eildtjheim and Liege, and Arch- Cbancellor of the Empire throughout Italy. This place was formerly called Bonna, or Cajlra Bonnenji^ the win- tering place, in the time of Tacitus, of the fixth Legion. It was not long fince very well fortified by the order of the prefent Archbifhop, and the direfiion of Colonel Bi - fer , a blind man, having Cataracts in both his eyes. The Archbifbops Palace is very Noble , and there is a Cham- ber feated a good way into the Rhine, to which they pafs thorow a Gallery. This Night we lodged at the foot of thehigheft of the feven Hills by the Rhine , which are feen at a great diftance; and upon divers of them (land old ruined Caftles. On the 1 5 th we paffed by a pleafant Ifland with a Convent in it: at Remagen is alfo a Con- vent upon a Rock, fortified with round Towers. Jnthe Evening we lodged near to a Caftle, ruined four years before by the Elefiorsof Triers and Colen, it belonging at that time co the Dukeof Lorrain. On (he 1 6th early in the Morning we came to Andernach, where the plague was very much at that time, and they kept a great many of their fick in Boats upon the Rhine .

jindernach, of old Antcnacum , was one of the Roman FoifretTes, Upon this River, fome think that G*/*g#/* was born, and that Valentinian was buried hereabouts* Near unto this place are alfo Mineral Springs , well fre- quented,and much made ufe of.The Town is encompafled with an old Wall ; and the Gates were fhut up by reafon of the Plague Notwithftandiog, there being divers Fri- ers in our company, feveral of the Towns men Pent out difhes of Meat to them, which we eat in the Field upon Trees which were laid along near the Town. This day the pafTage by water Teeming tedious to us^Mic.MtiJJlroth, a worthy German Gentleman, with whom I travelled as fe as Sf ire, was willing we fliould hire a Coach toge-

(45)

ther, which we did, and invited the Friers with whom we had breakfafted, to go along with us in it to Coblentz » We paffed through a very pieafant Country, between rows of Walnut-trees , in fight of two of the Eleflor of Tr/wHoufeSjand near to a Houfe belonging to the Count de Wert.

We paded the MofeUa overa handfome Stone-bridge of thirteen Arches, built by Archbifhop or Baldui •

n»s , in the year 1344, and coming into the Town, we went to the Dominican Convent , which is pleafantly feated near the Banks of the River MofeUa ; but the Pri- or of the Convent, whom we had brought with us , was fo obliging, that he would not part with us that night ; and we were very civilly entertained by him in his Lodg- ings: He invited alfo fame of the Convent to bear us company 5 and after a handfome Supper, with plenty of excellent Mofelle wine, we went to bed between two Feather-beds*

Coblentz , or Confiuentia , is a Town of a Triangular Figure, feated at the meeting of two great Rivers, the Rhine and the MofeUa, which make two fides thereof, and the third is made by a Line drawn from one River to the other ; which is now well fortified after the mod re- gular Modern way. The Wall within thefe Works had many old high Towers *, and formerly there was another ftill nearer to the uniting of the Rivers, and confequent- ly containing a lefs fpace of ground. This Town is un- der the Ele&or and Archbifhop of Triers, Carolus Cajpar r of the Noble Family of the Leyen , Arch-Chancellour for the Empire in Gallia Belgicay and the Kingdom of j(rles% It was given to the Church of Triers when Me - doaldus was Archbifhop above a thoufand years fince , in the time of King Dagobert . The Situation is pieafant and convenient, and Ueth over againft the Caftle of Her-

(♦< )

manjlein, or Ethrenbreitjlein, that is \ the Stone of f at extended Honour ; at the foot of which Caflle, upon the Choarof the Rhine, under a great Rock , frauds a very Noble Palace of theEleftors, two large Wings and the Fronc with five Pavilions (landing towards the River,and from it a long Bridge of Boats over the Rhine to Cob - lentz : when any great Veil'd pafieth by, they let flip three Boats, whereby the paffage lieth open, and make them fafi again afterwards. In the German wars the Spa- niards thruft in a Garrifoninto this Town ; which was af- terwards beaten out by the Rhinegrave for the King of Sweden ; and the ftrongCafileof EthrenbreitJleinbeiDg put into the hands of the French, the Emperours For- ces feized upon the Archbifhop of triers , who then was Philippus Chrifiophorm y and carried him away to Vienna*

In places where th eRhine runneth through a low Coun- try and a fat Soy 1, it wafheth away the Banks : tofecure which, in divers places they have made great Works of Wood 3 and alfo to fecure Veffels from the danger of the Ice. And I remember, ridingnear the Banks of the Ri- ver Loire in France, Iobferved them in fome places to be handfomly defended for a long way together with Free- Hone.

Near unto Goblentz, upon a Hill, is a Convent of Car- Jbufians. October the i -jtb we went up the Rhine to Bop- part, a walled Town, upon the weftern bank, where Van trump was ^ that time : It is a very old Town, one of the Roman Fortreffes againft the Germans , called anci- ently Bodobriga $ fome would have it called Bopport from Beauport , Fair-haven , or Bonport, a good convenient place for Veflels to retire into, or to ride in.

On the 1 %th vve dined at Sc. Guer , a pleafant Town belonging to the Landtgravc of Hejfe, who hath a Caftle

here*

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here. Coming on flioar we met with an odd cuirome v for upon the Wall fide there is fanned a Collar of Brafs ac prefenc, but was formerly of Lead, and given by Charles the Fifth; into this moft Strangers that come put their Necks, at which time they ask them, Whether they will be (prinkled with water, or drink wine? and if they choofe the latter, they give an entertainment of wine to the Company. The Queen of Sweden puffing by this place, gave a great Silver Gup, out of which they now drink at this Ceremony. We lodged this nights tWefel, a Town fituated between a high Hill aid the River, belonging to the Archbifliop of Triers. Here in the Market-place they ftew us the print of St, Huberts Hor- fes foot in a Free-ftone.

On the 1 9 th we came to Baccharach , or ad Bacchi arae ? belonging to the Eleftor Palatine^ place famous fcr Ex- cellent Wines. Wre pafifed by an old Caftle feated upon a Rock in the middle of th zRhine, being of an irregular figure, called Pfalts 5 where formerly the Prince Pah*- tines of the Rhine were born, the PrincefTes being fent hither to be brought to Bed. We came this night to Dreickfhaufen j the next day we went by a dangerous Paf- fage, there being many Rocks under water, which caufe the River to run very rapid and unequally. A little a« bove this we came to a round Tower, on a Rock in the Rhine , called the Mcufe-tower, built by Hatto Archbi- fhopof Mentz, in the year 900. who, as the Story goetb, in a time of great Scarcity,pretending to relieve the poor who wanted bread, invited them together into a Barn, where he burnt them all, faying, They were like the Rats and sJtllce which would devour the Corn. After which he was fo perfecuted with Rats and Mice, that to avoid them hecaufed this Tower to be built in the middle of the Rhine, which did not avail him, for they followed him

thither

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thither alfo, and at laft devoured him. A little above this lieth Bing upon the Wefternihoar* a confiderable Town, belonging to the Eleftor of Mentzi heie our Boat ftayed to pay Cuftome, as it had done alfo at Eonna, Liutz, Hammerfiein, yindernach, Coblent z9 Lodejheim, Bopport, St, Gower, Cub} and Baccbarach. For the trade of the being great, Princes and Lords, who have Towns upon it, make ufe of that advantage, which, though itabateth the gains of the Merchant, brings confiderable profit to themfclves.

Bing, or Binginm, .was an old Roman Fortrefs upon the Rhine, where the River Navusov JVarv entreth into it ; over which latter there is a handfome Stone-bridge : In this Town were many of the Duke of Lorrains Army fickand wounded, who three weeks before had main- tained a fight againft the Forces of the Elettor JPalatine , near this place. From Bing we continued our Journey to Mentz : at Rudejbeim in Rhinegaw , a place noted for good Wine, they fhewed us a Boy, whofehair was thick and woolly, like to the African Moors, but of a fine white colour, which being fomewhat an odd fight5I took away fome of his hair with me.

^Mcntz, Moguntia , Moguntiacum, and by the French Mayence , is feated over againft the Confluence of the Ri- ver Main , with the Rhine, or rather a little below ir$ in a fertile Country, abounding in all Provifions and good Wine; it lieth at length, and is moft extended towards the River 3 and that part excelleth the other towards the Land, which is not fo populous or well-built; It is a ftrong place, and well guarded ; it hath many Churches and Monafteries, and fome fair Buildings, efpeciaJly thofe of publick concern, as the Palace of theEledtor, and o- thers : But the narrownefs of the Streets, and many old Houfes, take away much from the beauty of the City,

It is an Univerfity, begun about the year 1486. or as 6* thers will have it 146 1. This place alfo challenged the Invention of Printing, oratleaft the firft promotion or perfeftion thereof : And the Territory about it is famous for the deftru&ion of the Roman Legions under Varus, by the Germans, Gttftaphtts Adolphus , King of Sweden, was wonderfully pleafed upon the taking of thisCity, i6^r. entring into it in Srate upon the r 4 th of December, it be- ing his Birth-day, which began the 38 th year of his life, and kept his Court and Ghrifimas here ; where at one time there were with him fix chief Princes of the Empire, twelve AmbafTadours of Kings ,' States , Elefiors , and Princes 5 befides Dukes and Lords, and the Martial men of his own Army. At the taking of the Town,they found great ftore of Ordnance and Powder ; and the City re- deemed it felf from Pillage by giving the King a Ranfome of Eighty thoufand Dollars ; and the Clergy and Jews gave Two and twenty thoufand more , of which the Jews paid Eighteen thoufand 5 Archbifliop Wambold faving himfelf upon the Rhine, and retiring to Colen. The King caufed alfo two great Bridges to be made, one over the Main, founded upon fifteen great flat bottom’d Boats, the reft being built upon great Piles of Wood : Another over the Rhine fupported by fixty one great flat Boats , each lying the diftance of an Arch from one another ; and many Families of people living fomecimes in the Boats un- der the Bridge, The Bridge over the Main is taken a- way; but that over the Rhine is (till continued: Upon which I faw the prefent Eleflor paffiig in his Coach; a Perfon of great Gravity, of a middle Stature, having long grey Hair, and was very Princely attended; his Name Joannes Philippas of the Noble Family of Schoen- &wg,EIe£korand Archbifliop of Mentz , Bifliop of Wurtz- burg, and BiffiOp of Worms^ Arch-Chancelibur of the i'diil H Empire

Cs®>

Empire for all Germany) the firft of iht EletforalColledge$ in all publick Conventions he fits at the right hand of the Emperour, and is a SuccefTour of the famous Boniface , an Englifb man, Bifliop of M^/r, whofo much promo- ted the Chrifiian Religion in thefe parts. But though his Dignity and Place excelleth the two other Ecclefiaftical Ele&ors of Coltn and Triers, yet his Territories come fhort ; and they lye not together, but fcatterirgly with thofe of the Palatinate, Spier , Franck fort, and divers places in Franconia . But of late he hath much encreafed his Power , by feizing the great City of Erfurdt in Turingia, which he hath fince much beautified and ftrengtb- ned by a Citadel built upon St. Peters kill.

From Mentz l pafied by water up the River Main , to Franckfort, a free City of the Empire, called Fray Hum Franconim , a Paflage or Ford of the Franks > as ferving them for a Retreat, when they entred or returned from Gaul ; at prefent Franckford upon the Main , to differ- ence it from Franckford upon the River Oder, which is an Univerfity .* It is a large Town, divided into two parts by the River; the lefier called Saxonhaufen , or Saxon* houfes, united to the other by a Stone-bridge over the eJ Main of twelve or thirteen Arches. It is a place of good Trade, and well fcated for it, as having the ad- vantage of the River Main, which pallet h by Bamberg, * Scbminfurt, Wurtzburg r Guemund, or Gaudia mundi $ and alfo the Tauber , and other Rivers running into it, af- fordeth conveniency for Commerce with the remoter parts of Franco#ia$ and the Main running into the Rhine ^ makes a large communication both up and down that Stream.

But this place is moft remarkable for the Elefiion of the Emperour, which, by the Laws of the Golden Bull , ftouldbe in this City, as alfo for two great Marts or

Fairs

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Fairs kept in March and September, at which times there is an extraordinary concourfe of people from remote parts, in order to buying and felling of fevera I Commo- dities, efpecially for Books, as well printed here as in other parts, whereof they afford two Catalogues every year, and have no final 1 dealings that way, by the Fa* ftorsof the Germans, Hollanders, kalians, French, and Englijb: although at other times their trading in Books feems not great ; for when I was there out of the time of the Mart, the Stationers Shops being (hut up, made but a dullfliow, Here are alfoa great number of good Horfes bought and fold : and on the North-fide of the City there is a fpacious place for a Horfe- Fair, The City is ftrong and well fortified ; and moft part of the Town are Luthe- rans. Tn the German wars, the King of Sweden having taken Hanat v. Pent a Meffeoger to Franckfort to know whether the City would peaceably and fpeedily fet open their Gates unto him* and accept fairly of a Garrifon, or Hand to the hazard of a Siege : And although they were unwilling to yield, yet for fear of the worft, they con- fented, That the King fhould have free paffage for his Army through the City ; and that for the better affurance of it, fix hundred of his men fliould be received for a Garrifon into Saxonhaufen ; and alfo that the Magiftrates and People fliould take an Oath unto his Majefty. So that upon the 17 th of November, 1631. the Kings Army paf- fed through Saxonhaufen over the Bridge , quite through the Town. Colonel Vitzthumh was left Governour in Saxonhaufen; and the King himfelf rode bare-headed through the Streets : and by bis obliging behaviour did generally win the affeftions of the beholders ; and three days after returned thither again with the Landtgrave of Heffcn-Caffell, and the Landtgrave of Hejfen-Darmftadt t where they met the Seventeen Earls of the Wetteraw 9 or

cht “c" 4 h a

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Feteravia, and were feafted in the fame room where the Emperours at their Coronation ufe to be entertain- ed.

In Saxonhwfen there is a Houfe anciently belonging untotheKnigh s of xhGteutonicJ(Order , whichhaththe priviledge of a Sanfluary for Man- flayers and Bankrupts ; but it is a fecurity but for fourteen days. Upon this fide there is the largeft portion of Land belonging to Frank- fort 5 on the other fide very little.

This being a trading place, it is no wonder that there are fo many Jews in it ; for a diftinflion they wear great Ruffs, their Sons Bonnets, and their Wives a peculiar drefs of their Head.

The Collegiate Church of St. Bartholomew , where ma- ny of the Emperours have been crowned, is large, hath a high Steeple, and is built of a red ftone. There are divers handfome Fountains in the Town, and good Hou- les; in one of the beft of which liveth Monfieur Pitrn Nenfville, a great Merchant, and a civil worthy perfon, well known in moft places of Commerce ; who obliged me with Letters to Venice , and other places.

From Frankfort I continued my Journey through the BergfiraeSy pafling by Darmjladt , which belongs to one of the Brothers of the Houfe of Heffen, commonly known by the name of the Landtgrave of Beffen Darmjladt $ and afterwards through a fruitful plain Country, in the fight of Hills, and fomecimes near them : the whole Country planted with Wallnut- trees, Vines, Corn, and in fome places with Tobacco; till I arrived at Heidelberg.

In coming into this Town we paffed over the River *Nma^ Nicer , otNecarue, upon a Bridge covered over fto© one end to another, with a large Roof of Wood : m the lame manner is the long Bridge covered at theen- mm of t heCity of jdUfJwdti* della faglia in halt.

-i " “ ° The

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The River Nectar arifeth near the Martkm r

mvr Swartz^ld^ or Black Forejt, and paffing through the Territories of the Duke of Wittenberg , runneth into , the Rhine at eJA&nheim ; This, thoagh none of the great- eft, yet is a confiderable River of Germany ; arid hath di- vers good Towns upon it and near it, as Sultz, Tubingen^ Wirtingen , FJJingen, Stutgard , Canfiat , Laujjen , Hailbrun 5 Heidelberg.

There being wars at that time when I w as in this Coun- try, between the FU&or Palatine and the Duke of Lo- rain: The Eleftor refidedfor the moft part at Franken* dale , to be near his Forces.

Heidelberg is feated on the South*fide of the River Neccar , between it and a ridge of high Hills, ib as it cannot well admit of a modern Fortification, or hope to be extraordinary fheng, as being over-looked by the ad- jacent Mountains: It lieth moft at length from Eaft to Weft : It hath been an Univerfity fince the year 1346, at w hich time it was begun by Rufertm^ Count Palatine^ and at prefent is much frequented. In the great Church was kept the famous Library, which, after that the sp&«- niards had taken this Town 1620. was carried to Rome % and added to the Vatican , where I faw it in the year 1 66^» being placed upon one fide of a very long Gallery be- longing to the Vatican Library $ and the Duke of Urbiri% Library placed on rhe otherlide, over-againft its both which made a notable addition to the Papal Library* In this Church and the Church alfoof St .Peter, are divers Monuments of Frinccs of the Palatine Family , and of Learned and Famous Men. The French have a Church here, and the prefent Eleflor is of the Order of the Holy Qhoft \ and his Son a Marefchal of Frame 1 and good French High htch are both generally fpoken here® Th e Lutherans have aifo a Church in this Town , by the

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favour of the prefent ILIefior ; although he himfelf be a Calvinijl : and to exprefs his generous kindnefs the higher in this point , the firft Scone was laid by himfelf and his Son ; and ic is called the Church of Providence , according to the Ele&or’sMotto, Domims Provide bit.

Upon the Town-houfe is a Clock with divers Moti- ons, and when the Clock ftrikes, the figure of an Old man pulls off his hat, a Cock crows, and (hakes his wings, Souldiers fight with one another, and the like. The Prince’s Stables for above a hundred Horfes are feat- ed upon the River very conveniently, but were fairer formerly, above half thereof having been ruined by the Ijnperialifb ; as alfo divers of the Statues on the out- fide of the Caftle, which is feated high above the Town*

The prefent Eleftor is Carolus Ludovicus , Son to the KingoF Bohemia , Frederick the Fifth; he was born in the year 1617. and paffed his Youth an Exile from his Fathers Kingdom and Eleflorate : and at the pacification at Prague 1635. he was excluded from any reftitution to be made to him. But at length, in the Treaty of Mun- fter 1648. he was reftored to the lower Palatinate , and i65?.returned to the poffeflion of his Fortunes : a highly accomplished Prince , much honoured and beloved by his Sub;e6s. In the year 1650. he married Charlottas Daughter to William the Fifth, Landgrave , and to the famous Amelia Elizabeth, Landgravefi of Haffia 5 by whom be had the CWPrince,or Electoral Prince Charles , and a Daugbtersthe Princefs Charlotte Elizabetha\but up- on fome difcontent the Princefs Eleftrefs ft nee returned to her own Fnends and Count ry. This Eleftor is alfo Knight of the mqft Noble Order of the Garter, Great Treafurer of the Empire, and together with the Eleftor of Saxon/, Yicar of the Emgin?. •

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In his Palace or Gaftle at Heidelberg, are divers things remarkable ; a very great Tower to be equalled by very few 5 within which isa Theatre for Comedies. This Was formerly called frut&kaifar , or the Tower that bad- 'Defi- ance, or ihreatned the Emperor 3 but fince the Reftaura- tionof the Eleftor, there are fonie Works drawn about it in the figure of aS'ar, and theolddifobliging Name is by Proclamation forbidden to be continued, and it is at prefent called the Sternfchanz, or the Star f erf 9 By k

is a handfome Garden ; in the Ditch whereof there was then kept a great Bear, and a very large Wolf. The Grotto's and Water- works are very handfome : they were alfo making divers others , having the advantage of the fide of the Hill to bring down the water, and to make Grots and Caves in the Rock. Amongft other Fountains; thatof the Lions head with a Frog in his Ear, is taken notice of. The Cellars are very large and cool, filled with Veflfelsof no ordinary fize ; yet inconfiderable, if com- pared to the great Tun kept in a great Building joyning to the Cellars; it was built by this prefent EleStd^s Or- der, 1664. andgoethfar beyond any made before*9 It contains 204 Faiders and odd meafure, or about two hundred Tuns infteadof Hoops it is built with large knfce Timber, like the ribs of a Ship, which are painted and carved, and have divers Infcriptions upon them 3 and fupported by carved Pediflals. Upon one fide of it is a handfome Staircafe toafeend to the top of the VeD fel 3 upon thetopof which is a Gallery fee round with* Baliifters, three and forty fteps high from the ground.

Aboutan Evgli[h mile from Heidelberg ; between- the Hills, is a folitary place, where three large Streams or Springs gufh out of the Mountain, and prefently filfr five Ponds, have three handfome Cafcates or Falls, and after run into the Plain , and are Tirong enough in &

final!

final Ifpace to turn four Mills j this i* called Wei f shun] or the Wolfs Fountain , from a Priacefs who formerly re- tired into a Cave in this defart place, and was here de- voured by a Wolf.

While I was at Heidelberg^ two Englifb men came kind- ly to me, Mr. Fillers, and timothy Middleton, belonging to Lobensfeldt Clotjler, a Convent formerly of the Jefu- its, butfiaceletout to about an hundred Engltfh , who left their Country r 66 1 . catne up the Rhine, and by the permiflion of the Eledtor, fetled themfelves a few miles from hence, living altogether, men, women, and chil- dren, in one Houfe ; and having a community of many things: They are of a peculiar Religion, calling them- felves Chriftian Jews j and one Mr. Poole , formerly li- ving at Norwich, is their Head. They cut not their Beards, and obferve many other Ceremonies and Duties, which they either think themlelves obliged to from fome Expreflions in the Old Teftament,or from fome New Ex- po fuion of their Leaders.

From Heidelberg I made an excurfion, and had a fight of Spire, feared in a Plain, on the Weft .-fide of the Rhine', a place of Antiquity, conceived to be Urbs Nemetnm of old ; a large place and populous. The King of Sweden in the German wars demoliflied the Works about it , not willingtofparefo great a number of his Souldiers as was required to Garrifon it, and make it good. Ic is an Epifcopal See under the Archbilhop of Mentz : there are many fair Houfes in it, divers Churches, and a fair Cathedral, with four large Towers, The Romani/ls, the Lutherans, and Cdvinifs preach in it at feveral hours. It is the more populous, and filled with people of good quality, byreafonof the concourfe of perfons from o- ther parts of Germany, for the decifion of Law Suits: For here the Imp^il ^hamfe)er jis.beld, and many differ- ences

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ences which arife in the Empire are determined, and the Elefiors and other Princes, in force tryals at Law, may be called hither. It is a fettled Court, which Maxims* lun theFirft, for the better eafe of all perfons , placed firft at Worms, and not long after it was fixed at Spire , from whence it cannot be now removed, but by the con- fent of all the Eftates. Things Cognofcible in this Court are determined by an Imperial judge, and fealed with the Emperours Arms , fo that there lieth no appeal unto the Emperour.

Another day I went to Manheim , formerly a Village, feated at the Confluence of the Rhine and Neccar ; but walled about by the Ekflor Frederick the Fourth, and fince is much encreafed ; all the Streets being large and uniform, and a Noble Citadel built ; within which, over- againft the G3te, the Elefior defigns a Palace, the Mode! of whicblfaw: and at prefent, on the right hand, there are three Pavilions of Lodgings: in one of which lodgeth the Elefior Palatine’, in another the Prince his Son ; and in the third the Princefs his Daughter : behind thefe there is a handfome Garden and Lodgings for Degen Felderen, the Churfurjls Miftrefs. Here are fome good Pictures, as a Head of Hans Holben, and a Landskip with the Sto- ry of the Union of the Sniffers. The Bridge over the Moat of the Citadel into the Town, is alfb remarkable, as having fix Draw-bridges upon it, three great ones, and three fmill ones on the fide, There are Palifado’s all a* long the bottom, in the middle of the Ditch, and with- out upon the Efplanade.

FromHeidelberg I travelled to Nurnberg in the Compa- ny of Captain Wagtnfeyl, who had been in the Ptlifi and Hungarian wars, and was employed a little before in blowing up the Gaftle of Launfleyn, belonging to the E- lettor Palatine, to prevent its furprifal by the Duke of

I Lorrain.

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Lorrain. He was then employed to raife a Company at Nurnberg, for the Service of the Eleftor Palatine. I had a good ad vantage in my Journey by his Company ; for he travelled with Authority, and was a generous, knowing, and courteous perfon.

The firft day we travelled near to the Keccar , in ftony and rocky way; and it being dark before we came to Mojpach, the Feafants conduced us from Village to Vil- lage with bundles of lighted Straw.

The next day we came to Voxberg , w here there is an old Cattle, and in the afternoon reached Morkenthal or Mcrgetbeim , the Seat of the Grand Matter of the Herrhn Deutchern, or the Teutonic/: Order. The Town is well- built, hathafairPM^ci, with a large Fountain in it, and a Statue of one of the Grand Matters, with a long Corridore from his Palace. This Order hath been of great Fame, and hath had large Poflefiions, as may be feen in tbeexaft Account of iht Teutonick Knights of Pruffia, made out from the beft Authors, by my worthy honoured Friend Mr. djhmple, in his Noble Defcription of the Order of rhe Garter ; and as Lewi* du May , Counfellor unto the Duke of Wirtenberg, hath fet it down. For the Knights Templars and of St. John .having fought profperoujly againfi the Infidels, raided an Emulation in fome German Gentlemen T who waited upon the Emptrour Frederick the Firfl, in hi s Expedition to the Holy Land, to take the Croifado. And becaufe they were inft ailed in the Church and Hojpitalof St. Mary at jerufakm, they were called Marianites. Their Order differed nothing from thofe above-mentioned , but in the form and colour of their Crofl ’ and was approved by Pope Celettin the Third . Afterwards when Jerufalem was ta- ken by Saladin, thofe Knights betook themfelves to Ptole- mai s,from whence the Emperour Frederick the Second fent them bac\ into Germany, and employed them againjl the

Pruffians

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Pruflians and Livonians, who at that time were fill Pa- gans- But by the Valour and Piety of thofe Knights , their Souls were brought into fubjeff ion to Chrijl , and their Boy dies to the Order which began that war tn the year 1 22c. a little while after thefe Knights found themjelves Jlers of a Country of very large Extent , which obeyed the Order , till the year 1*25. at which time Sigifniond, King of Poland, gave the invejiiture of Pfuflia unto A be a Mat* pdf of Brandenburg. In the year 1 563. the Great <tMa~ Her became Secular again , and took a fart of the Lands fub~ Jeff to the Order , with the name of Duke of Cur land* And Livonia having been the Subject and Theatre of many wars between the Po!anders3 Mufcovites3 and Swedes 5 thefe DJI did at length become Majiers of it, and have it in poffe/fion Jlill. So that there is no more remaining of the Teuton ick Order, but fome Commander tes fcattered here and there in Germany. And the Great Majler hath his Seat and Reft - dence at Mergenthal.

They wear on a white Mantle a plain black Crofs. The Dignity of Grand Mafter is generally held by fome Great and Honorable Per fon s, and in the Great Aflemblyhe ta- keth place of all Bifliops-The prefent is the Baron of Am- ring ; and the Grand Mafter before him was Leopold Wil- liam, only Brother to the Emperor Ferdinand the Third.

From hence we travelled to hauterbach^zt which we paflfed through a Wood, and found a Noble Church up- on the top of a high Hill, which being much frequented by Pilgrims, they have made handfome ftane Stairs from the bottom to the top : then to Rotenburg, and lodged at Burgperner , and the next day by Schantzbach we came to Nurenberg. Rotenburg is an Imperial City, which fome have likened unto Jerufalem for its Situation upon hilly .places, and many Turrets in it. It is Situated near

I 2 the

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the head of the River lauber^ which may be accounted the iecond River of Franconia, palling by Rottingen,Lan. den , and Wcrthaim, where it runneth into the Main, Nurenberg is the faireft City that I faw in Germany 5 the Houfesmoft of them of Free-ftone, very high; and d i vers of them painted on the outfide, and adorned with gilded Balls on the top ; many are of fix or feven Stories high. Der Herr Feller hath one of rhe faireft. The City is very populous and full of Trade , although it fiands in a barren Country, and wants a Navigable River0 The three beft Churches are the Hofpitat Church , lately built very fair ; Sc* haurence^ which is very large, with two high Steeples in the Front ; and Sr. Sebald the beft of the three. The Body of St. Sebald being laid upon a Cart drawn with Oxen , in that p!ace where the Oxen ftood*ftill,they buried the Body, anderefled this Church in his memory. In this Church is a Crucifix of Wood , very well carved, and efteemed at a high rate. The Cru- cifix without the Church is very great, and of a black colour : and fome fancy that the Raht Herrn , or Magi- ftratesof the Town, haverepofiteda Treafure within ire The Pulpit is well carved and gilded, and the whole Church foftately, that it may pafs in the firft rank of Lutheran Churches y that Religion being here prafti fed in its fp!endoure ThePrieft every morning reads the Scripture to the people for half an hour, or preacheth a Sermon. The Town*houfe is well worth the feeing: In it the Hall is fpacious* as alfo the Chambers, andfurniflh- ed with good Pictures, and Stones well gilded and pain- ted with white and goldj green and gold 5 dark coloured and gold, and the like. There isone Pifture of moil of the Great Perfons in Germany entertained in the Great Mall ; another of the three Brothers of Saxony 5 one ©f an Elephant as big as the life 1 a piece ofSt* JobmtA

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$u Mark, and another of St. Peter- and St, Fmt^ both by Albert Durer: but themed rare piece is that of jfdam and E*vcy by the fame Matter, with this Infcription *

Albertus Durer Almang facie bat pojl Virgins part urn $ 1507-

Another excellent one is that of St. Luke drawing the Picture of our Saviour and the ‘ bleffed Virgin. Over the Gate at the entrance of the Shambles is a large Oxe carved in Wood, and painted over, with this Infcripv tion ;

Omnia, hahent ortus fuaque increment a, fed ecce Quern ctrnis , nunquam Bos fait hie, Vitulns .

The Caftle fiandeth upon a high Hill, from whence the Town makes a handfome fliow : In it are obfervable a very deep well, the Emperors Chappel, his Pifiure, and the Pifiuresof the Elefiors ;good Night, pieces 5 and one of a man behind a white Curtain tranfparent, very well exprefTed. The Armour of Hebbelevan Gdlinghen the great Sorcerer is here Iho wn ; and in the Wall of the Ca- ftle the marks of his Horfes feet, when he leaped from thence over the 7l oven ditch.

The new Fountain was not then finished $ but the Sta- tua’s in Brafs made for it were excellent $ the Sea-Horfes large, the Sea-Nymphs much bigger than the life $ and Neptune^ who was to ftand on the top, is above three yards and a half high. When I came firft into this places I was not a little furprized to behold the fairnefs of the Hcufes, handfome Sreets, different Habits, induftrious People, and nearnefs in all things, more than I had ob- ferved in German Cities before ; and no place hath grea 3 ter number of curious Artificers in Steel, Brafs, Ivory *

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Wood, wherein they work at an extraordinary cheap rate; and there are Officers to infped: and enquire into the works of Artificers, that they be true, perfeft, and without fraud : they make flrong and handfome Clock- work. The King of Poland prefented the Grand Signi- or with a very noble Clock, who took fo much delight in it, that when it required fome mending (the lurks be- ing ignorant in Clock-work) he fcnt it from Adrianople as far as Nurenburg , to be fet in order again.

Gufiavm Adolphus, King of Sweden , was more magnifi- cently received and entertained in this City, than in any other of Germany ; which fo incenfed Wallenfleyn, that he afterwards encamped before their Town, and did great fpoil upon their Territories ; But the King of Sweden marched thither towards their Relief, and from thence towards Lutzen , where in a bloody Battel he loft his life.

The River Pegnitz runneth through Nurnberg , and hath divers Stone Bridges over it ; and below the Town, joyning with the River Rednitz3 runneth into the River $J\law at Bamberg $ and the Main runs at laft into the Rhine . The Reduitz arifeth at Weiflenberg, and is not

far from the River Altmul, which runneth into the Da- nube > towards Regenfburg \ Upon this convenience, Charles the Great defigned to make a Communication of pafifage bet ween the Danube and the Rhine ; and made a Canale thirty paces broad between the Rednitz and the Altmul , to joyn thole Screams for the commodity of Paf- fage by Boat ; but after he bad proceeded two German miles in this work, Boggs, Rains, and his warlike Di- verfions made him give over that noble Defign , whereby there might have been a Commerce by water, from the Low- Countries to Vienna , and even unto the Euxine Sea.

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The Roman Lieutenant in Nero’s time, had a defire unite the River Sonne and the MofeUa ; and to make a paflage between the Mediterranean and the German Oce- an \ having been at the mouth of the MofeUa by Goblentz* and pafiedfrom Chaalon upon the foft and noble River jlraris or Soane unto Lyon, [ cannot but think thefe ve- ry goodly Streams, and fit for fuch a purpofe* The prefent King of France hath a defign to unite the River Aude with the Garonne , and fo to have a paflage by Boat from the Mediterranean Sea by Fholoufe and Bourdeaux , into the Ocean. When I travelled in thofe parts , view- ing the Country well, I thought it would be a difficult work, and foit proveth but the King hath proceeded already very far therein.

About four Leagues from Nurnberg lyeth Altdorff, be- longing unto it, madeanllniverfity in the year 1623*0011- taining, when I was there, about 150 Scholars. The Phyfick Garden is bandfome , and well flocked with Plants, to the number of two thoufand. Dr. Hoffman the Botanick and Anatomick Profeffour , fliew’d me many of the mod rareof them ; and prefented me with divers*. The Anatomy School is notlargejyer the only one in thofe parts of Germany : And they have divers Curiofiries pre- served in it, as the Skeleton of a Harr, of a Hode, of a Man, of a Bear bigger chan a Horfe: And fome Pifltires,

as one of a Ninivite,m& another of Mofes , which they take to be Ancient. Dr. Wagenfeyl , ProfeflTour of La w and Hiftory, brother to Captain Wagenfeyl , who travel- led with me from Heidelberg , invited us to lodge at his Houfe, and fhew'd me his Library , and all his Rarities and Coyns, whereof he hath a good Collection, having lived in moft places of Europe , and fpeaks many Lan- guages well; he gave me a piece of the firft mony that was coined in Germany . In the Univerfity Library I

few

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faw a fair Hortus Eyjletenjisr and Youngermn's Golle- ftion of Plants by his own hand.

At Nurnberg I met with the Son and the Secretary to the Holland AmbaflTador in Turky , who had travelled hi- ther over-land from Conjlantinople , in their return into the Low- Countries, travelling in Greek Habits.

From hence I went to Newmarkt, a good Town in the upper Palatinate belonging to the Duke of Bavaria , and the next day through Heinmaw, fubjeft to the Duke of Newburg, to Regensburg.

Ratijbom , Regenfburg, Jugujla Tiber ii} CoJonia Quart a- mrum 5 the chief place of the Roman Forces in this limit of the Empire, where the fourth Italick Legion had a conftant Nation \ was made a Colony by Tiberius in the year, as fome conceive, of the Paftlon of our Saviour. It was much augmented and adorned by the Emperour jirnulphm, who had a great aflfeftion for this place, fo pleafantly feated, and in a good Country* Here the River Regen runs into the Danube 5 from whence it was called Regenfburg . There are two Bridges, one of wood below the Town, and another Bridge of ftone of about fifteen Arches ; which is the faireft ftone Bridge o- ver the Danube. It is an Imperial City, but not with- out fome acknowledgment to the Duke of Bavaria : And although it be ftrongly fortified, yet it was taken by the Swedes in the German wars. There are many fair build- ings in it, both private and publick; and though I am not able to confirm what fome report, that there as many Churches and Chappels in this City, as there are dayes in the year$yet are there many fair Churches and Convents : As the Cathedral of St. Peter , in the South* fide of which is the Pifture of St .Peter in a fliip ; and on the North a- otherof the Apoftles firft Miflion. In the Piazza ftand s a neat little Church, the Convent of St. Paul , founded

by

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by St". Wolfgtngut Bifliop of this place, the Convent of St. Emermmus Bifliop of Rat if bone, a Saint of great Ve« neracion here, though but of little mention or name in ther parts. The name of Albertus Bifliop of this

place, hath alfo added unto the Fame of Regenfburg,

But that which chiefly promoteth its iuftre, is the General Diet or Parliament, which is often held in this City, and is not to be called in any part out of Germany, and the place is not unfit for the accommodation of fuch a noble Convention, as are the Effaces of Germany. The Vice-Marfhal taketh care to provide Lodgings refpe- Gively to their perfons v and feeth that all things be brought hither, and at a juft price 5 that the Hall or Place of Affembly befurnifhed and adorned futably to the dignity of the Perfons convened, and hath an efpeci- al eye and regard towards the Publick fafety. By this Convention the great Concerns of Germany are much fecured, and their peace and quiet Eftablifhed. Wherein Germany feems to have a better advantage than Italy \ For Italy being likewife divided into many Dominions and Principalities, hath no Common Diet or Great Council , whereby to proceed for their Publick fafety : Which makes them often fo divided in their common Concerns in times of Danger, and when they moft need a joynt Combination.

I entred the notable River Dambius at this place 5 which hath already run a good courfe, and pa(Ted by ma- ny fair Towns or Cities ; as the large City of Ulme in Swabenland , where it beginneth to be Navigable ; as alfo Donarvert 5 Neubttrg , and Ingolftadt , and hath already received the confiderable River of Liens or Leek, where- by the Commodities of that great Trading City of Jugp burg are brought into it. When I firft embarked at Re- genjburgy I thought I might have taken leave of the Da- 1 K nube

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nub* not far below Vienna, but an opportunity made me fee this great Stream beyond Belgrade , as I have declared in another Account qf my Travels

The fir ft day we paflfed by Thonavpjleyn , where there is a Caftlefeateduponahigh Rock, and came to Pfeter or Vetera Cafira of old, now but an ordinary place. The Boats upon the Danube are generally painted black and white, are flat bottom’d, and broad at the Head and Stern; there is a Chamber built in the middle ; and the Rudder is very large, to be able to command the Boat where the River is rapid, and of a fwiftCourfe.

The next day we came to Straubing ,a hand force walled Town, belonging to the Duke of Bavaria • the Streets are ftreight- and there is a Tower in the Market-place, paintedaH over with green and gold-colour: There is alfo a Bridge of wood over the Danube. We pafied by Swartz, in the Afternoon, where the Church is feated up- on a Hill, and is frequented by Pilgrims, and lodged at Deckendorjf, where there is another Bridge. Near this Town comes into t he Danube that confiderable River Ifer, or Ifara, having -pafied by divers confiderable Towns $ as Landjhut , Frijing, an&Mmchen, the Seat of Fer divan* Am Maria , Ele&or of Bavaria , Great Steward of the Empire, and at prefent the firft of the Secular Elefiors, and he is to take place immediately after the King of Bo- hemia, it being fo concluded on at the Treaty of Munfier^ where Maximilian Duke of Bavaria was allowed to hold the Eleftorflhip, which was confirmed upon him by the 'Empetour Ferdinand the Second, when be excluded Frederick the Fifth, Count Palatine^ and in lieu hereof there was an eighth Eleftorfliip erefied for the Palatinate Family, who alfo, if the Bavarian branch doth fail, are to re-enter into their ancient Eieftorlhip, and theotber newly erefted is to be aboliflbed.

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Thwfday, November the fifteenth, we came by Wiljho- ven to Pajfaw, Patavia , or Boiodurum, a long and no- ble City in the lower Bavaria, or Bayern , made up of three Towns, lltftadt , Pajfaw, and Innjladt , at the con- currence of the River tone, the Danube, and the lltz. As Towns are commonly of great Antiquity which are built at the Confluence of great Rivers, for the Strength of the Situation and convenience of Commerce ; fo is this accounted ancient , as being a Roman Co- lony, and the place of the Cajtra Ratava in old cime%

The Church of St. Stephen is (lately , befides or her fair Churches. The Bifhop, who is Lord of the City, hath a ftrong Palace upon a Hill ; his Revenues are large, and befides what he poffefTeth hereabouts, he hath the tenth part of the notable great Lead-Mine at Bleyberg in Carinthia . This place had lately fuffered

muchbyfire$ but a good part was rebuilt, and very fairly after the Italian manner : So that this may well be reckoned as one of the ten considerable Cities , which are upon the Danube, accounting from Ulme unto Bel- grade, as Ulme , togoljladt , Ratifbone , Paffaw, Lintz , Vienna , Prefburg , Strigonium , Buda , Belgrade ; all which from Ratifbone I had the opportunity to fee be- fore the end of my Journey. Near to a Wall over a* gainft the great Church at Paffaw, which was then re- pairing, I faw a vaft Head cut in ftone , the Mouth whereof was two fpans wide 3 and the reft proportion- able. The River lltz, which runneth in here from the North, is confiderable for the Pearls which are found in it ; and the noble River tone or Oenus , from the South , is the greateft River which hath yet entred the Danube ; having patted by tofbrug , and taken in the River Saltz , upon which ftanas Saltzburg $ anda- rifipg in the jilpes in fuch a high Country as I irolis ,

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it runneth in herewith a great force, and addeth much unto the fwiftnefs of the Danube,

Upon the Sixteenth we came to hintz , the chief City in the higher Jujlria , not very great , but as neat and handfome a City as moft in Germany . There is in it a very great Market place , with never a bad Houfe in it * the whole Town built of a very white Free ftone; and the Caftle upon the Hill is of Modern Building, and very large. There is alfo a Bridge o- ver the Danube, The Imperial Forces rendezvoufed here when Solyman came to Vienna > This was alfo

befieged by thePeafants of jfuftria in the time of Fer- dinands Second; they having got a Body together of Forty thoufand men, and many pieces of Ordnance , but were ftourly repulfed after many AfTaults, and at lad overcome by Papenheim, Not far below hintz the River Dr&un enters the Danube 5 this cometh from the Gemundner Sea , or Lacus Felicis , paffingby Lam- pack , Weltz, and other Towns, and hatha noted Cataraft or Fall of Waters.

The next day we pafied by Ens 3 Anijia , upon the River Anifws , or Onafus , which taking its original m the Borders of Saltzburgland , runs into the Da- nube, and divides the higher from the lower Aujlria , having received into it felf the River Saltza , upon which ftandeth Cell , or Maria Cell , a place of the greateft Pilgrimage in yiujlria , Near this Town are many Roman Coynsand Antiquities found , and Lauria - mm Rood of old , a Roman Garrifdn, and afterwards a Bifhop’s See x we came to a Village on the North flxoar of the Danube , called Greim, where the Graff vm Leichtenfieyn hath a Houfe. A little below this are two dangerous paflages in the River ; the one cal- isdkthe Strudel1* where the River running among# vaft a 1 Rocks?;

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Rocks j feme Under water, and fome above, the waves are broken with great force, and the Current is ra- pid, foaming 5 and troublefome$ and fotne skill is rej quired to pals between the Ledges of Rocks which are under water, and when the water is low the paf* fage is very difficult. The other is the Wurbel 7 ora kind of a Whirlpool , where the water turneth about with great force , being hindred in its direft Courfe by a great Rock. Upon the top of a high craggy Rock ftands a large Grofs, and at the foot a little Church, dedicated to St* Nicholas , who is Patron of this dangerous place, and is believed to take peculiar care of fuch as pafs this way, and therefore a little Boat comes to you as foon as you are out of danger^ and receives what Acknowledgment you pleafe, or what perhaps you may have promifed to give , when you were in fome fear. This night we lodged at //m, lpfium , or lbi([a9 a Town on the Souch-fide of the Da - mbe: over againft it lieth Befenbeug , or Ufbium Ftolo- msu Two German miles below lps ftands Pechlam , conceived to be Arlape in former times 5 and here the River Erlaph entreth the Danube: A mile and a half below this lies Melcke 9 Nomale , or Mea dileCia , in.-* former days the Seac of the MarquefTes of Jufiria s until Sr. Leopold removed to Kalenburg , and his Sue- cefTours to Vienna . The Town lieth at length upon the South*fide of the River ^ but the noble Cloifter of Benedictines , which taketh place of any other in Aujlria , ftands upon a Hill which over-looks theTown5 the River, and the Country about* is richly endowed^ and remarkable for the Monuments of many great Per* fons, and the Tomb of St. Gdmm , much honoured in thefe parts. We dined at Sfcyw, where there is a Bridge over the Dsmht, Near to thfe lieth Grmbs , another

walled 3

C?o>

walled Town; and over the water Mdutern; and not far from it the rich Convent of Ketrvein ; After this the River Traifn, or fragiptm , cometh in from the South* Having paiTed by the noted Town St. PM, or St Hiffolitus, we lodged this Night at St. Eldorff , and the next day pafled by Thuht , Stocker m, and Cloifier Neuburg , to Vienna.

\

THE

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THE

DESCRIPTION

O F

VIENNA.

/ E N N A , or Wien, which the Turks cdWBerch, is the chief City of Jujlria, in the Latitude of forty eight Degrees, twenty Minutes, not much differing from the Latitude of j Park. The old Seat of the Dukes of Aufiriay and for a Jong time of the Emperours of Germany. Ac- cording to ancient account it ftandeth in Pannonia fupe- rior , the Bounds of Pmncniaexier\d\r\gmtoKalemburg, or Mons Cetius9 five or fix miles Weftward of Vienna 5 beyond which ftill Weftward all that lieth between that Hill and the great River Oenus, or lnne, which runneth into the Danube dX Paffaw, or Cajlra Batava , w7as anci- ently called Noricum.

It was an ancient place of Habitation in the time of the Romans, and called Vindobona, as the Learned Petrus Lmbechs hath at large declared , where the Clajfts IJlrm

fome~

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fomctimes lay, and the tenth German Legion hadits fta- tion; all this fhoar or fide of the Danube being famous for the aftions of Roman Etnperours againft the Marco - manni and ^uadiy who pofTefled the Country on the o- ther fide of the River, and efpecially for the wars of Marcus Jure tins Antoninus Philofophus^ who notably de- feated thofe Nations, and who, as Aurelius Viftor (who was Governour of Sirmium i n Pannonia inferior , in the time of Conftantius ) affirtneth, fell fick at Carnuntum , now Petronel, and died at Vindobona, now Vienna \ And

to confirm the Antiquity hereof, befides what Wolfgangus Lazius hath delivered, not many years fince fome Anti- quities were found. For in the year 1662. when a wall was digged up near the old Palace, the workmen digging ftill on below the Foundation, found a Stone Trough or Coffin, containing hard Earth and Bones, with a fmall Gold Coyn, aGlafs Urnenclofed in a Brafs one, an Iron Knife like a sicefpita , or Knife ufed about Sacrifices, a little Roll or Scroll of pure Gold, fliut up with a Gol- den coverat both ends, wherein was an Infcription in ftrange Charafters : Not far from the Sepulchral Monu- ment were found a Head in Brafs, a Brazen Patera , Lamps, Lachrymatories, and other VeflTels , and a Copper Coyn of Antoninus Caracalla. The writing in the Golden Scroll, which no man could read, was conceived by the Learned Lambeciust o be the old T&nnonian Charafler, and that this might be the Monument of fome Pannontan Prieft in the days of Caracalla , who, as good Authors deliver, fpent fome time about thefe parts.

It is feated on the South-fide of the Danube , on the rifa Roman*) that fide neareft to Rome , and many Roman Colonies, according to the ufual pofition of Roman Sta- tions, both upon this River and the Rhine9 as may be ex- emplified in Colon, Bonna , Andarnach , Coblent zy oJMents ,

v " ’ - " Wormes ,

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Wormes, Spier , and Strafburg. And in like tanner in the old Romm Stations , on the South or Roman fide of th z Danube, which were in no ftnall number in or near the Aufirian flioar, as Carmntum , or Petronel, Vifchmund^ or Aquwo£tiumt Eberfdorjf , or Ala Nova, , Melck , or No- mate) Arlape,ov PechUrney Lentia, or Lsnt&i for here- by they better fecured their Conquefts, and hindred the incurfions of the Barbarians before them.

It is not fea ted upon the main ftream of the Danube^ but by a branch thereof; for the River running through a low Country; it is divided into fever a 1 Screams, and gnaketh many Iflands* A fmall River named Wien , run- neth by the Eafl part of this City, and entreth the Da- nube below it, which upon floods doth often much hurt , yet fometimes low and very fhallow, fo as I have flopped over it ; feme will have it to give the Name unto this Ci® ty; it divideth part of the Suburbs from it, and hath divers Bridges over it. For that we may have a diftinft

apprebenfion of Vienna, we muft confider the City and Suburbs thereof 5 the Suburbs are very great, and not without fair Houles, Gardens, Walks, and all Accommo- dations at large.

The City it felf is that walled and fortified part , de- signed not only for convenience of Habitation, but alfo to fuftain a Siege, or any Attack from the Turk , and is now feparated from the Suburbs by a fair EJplanade 5 or open Ground, above a Musket (hot over. The Houfes near the wall were pulled downfince the laft Fortificati- omin the Turkish war, when they were in fome fear that the Turkijh Forces about Gran and Nerv-beufel , would move towards them. It is fortified a lamoderna^ with ten Baftions towards the Land, and a very deep Ditch , into which they can let the Danube: and with two other Baftions towards the water, on that part of the River

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which lieth on the North*fide of the Town. The Baftions are large ; upon one of them I faw Count Souches mufter a good part of the Militia of the City. The Ditch is large and very deep, into which although they can let in the River, yet it is commonly kept dry, left they might incommode their deep Cellars. There are two walls , the one old and inward, little confiderable at prefent , built at firft with the ranfome of our King Richard the Firftj who in his return from the Holy War, was detained Prifoner by the Duke of Aujlria upon the 2-oth of Decem- ber ^ 1 19 2* The Anjlrians pretending they had received fome affront from the King at Joppa, and that he had taken clown the Enfign and Banner of Duke Leopold in a con- temptuous way. The other outward of a great breadth, made of Earth, and faced with Brick, edged with Free- Hone, fo well built, as to render this City one of the moft confiderable fortified places in Europe . The Ejjla* made gently defeendeth from the Town for three hundred Faces 5 there are very few Out-works.

It is very uncertain who was the firft Builder of Vien- na, and after it had been long built, it ran to decay a- gai-n for Four hundred years together, till Henry the* Firft, Duke of Aujlria , in the year i 1 58. did much re- pair it ; and the ranfome afterwards of King Richard beautified it.

The whole compais, taking in the Suburbs, makes a very large Circuit , but the City it felf, which is walled in5 may be about three miles in Circumference, and is exceeding populous as full of People, for the bignefs of the place, as moft of the great Cities. And I could not but take delight to behold fo many Nations in it, as Turks , Tartars,, Gmcians , 2 ranjylvanians, Slavonians , Hunga - ***** 9 Cr oat ians , Spaniards , Italians , French , Germans, Mknden, d?*. all in their proper Habits*

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The chief Gates are fix; i. Stubnth tr9 or the Stuben Gate towards the Eaft. 2. Karntertbor^ or the Gate of Garinthia towards the South. 3. Burgthor , the 3 ’oven Gate , or Gajtle Gate . 4. Schottenthor , or the Scotch

Gate * 5. Newthor, or the Newgate ; thefe twolaft to-

wards the Weft : And 6. the Gate of the red Tower to* wards the North, which leadeth unto the Bridge over the Danube : and towards the water fide, there is alfo a Port by the Eraperours palace, and aCloyfteror Nunnery in the Town hath the Name of a Port called Himmel port , or the Gate of Heaven ♦ The five firfl of thefe Gates are vaulted and arched with long paflTages through the Town- wall, and have good Bridges of Wood , with Draw* bridges to pafs over the Town ditch : The fixtfo is un- der a Tower, and leads to the Bridges of the Danube : For that River running here in a flat low Connery, diyi- deth its dreams, fotbat to pafs it quite over, there are at prefent feven long Bridges made up of many thoufand Trees laid one by another , after their way of making Bridges. There is alfo a Bridge within the City of Vi - enna , called the Hochbrug ,• or High- bridge 3 which is made by the eroding of two Streets at equal Angles ; the ground of one ftreet being as high as the tops of the Hgu~ fesof the other, fo that to continue it, they were for- ced to build a Bridge or Arch in the Lower fireet^ to let the upper pafs over it.

The City is fairly built of ftone, and well paved ; ma- ny Houfes are of fix ftories high ; they are fomewhat flat roofed after the Italian way ; the Streets are not narrow, but the compafs of ground will not admit them to be very broad *, and their Buildings are remarkable both above and below ground ; their Cellars are very deep. To fa- tisfie my curiofityj I went into fome of them, and found four Cellars one under another 5 they were arched, and

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fead two pair of Stairs to defcend into them. Some have an open fpace in the middle of each roof, to Jet the Air out of one Cellar into another, and from the loweft an adit ot tube unto the top, to let the Air in and out from the ftreer, fomewhat after the manner of the Mines, oMnaas Sylvius , about two hundred years fince, com- mending the City of Nurnburg) among o^her exprefllons lets fall this: Guperent Scotorum Reges tam egregie quam mediocre s Gives Norinbergenfes habttare . The Kings ,of

Scots would be content to dwell fo well as the middle fort of Citizens of Nurnburg . I muft confers, when I

firft entred Nurnburg, I was muchfurprifed to fee fuch a noble, large, fpruce, rich, and well built City : Bu {Vi- enna doth alfo deferve the commendation which he af« fordethit: Ubi Palatia dign a Regibus &Templa qua mi - rari Italia poffit. Where there are Palaces fit for Kings and Churches, which Italy may admire. And this being fpo- ken fo long ago, is now better verified of ir.

The Imperial Pa 'ace is very Noble', Subftential, and Princely furniflied 3 confining chiefly of two Courts ; the one very large, the other lefler, wherein the Emperour lodgeth. At the Entrance over the Gate, are fet in Ca- pital Letters the five Vowels, J, E , /, O, U v whereof the Phancies of men make various Interpretations. That which was told me was this , Aufiru ejl imperare Orbi Universe , ox, A lies Erdreich IJl Ofier retch Uni er than $ i<e. All the World is fubjeft to Auflria. Although I could hardly believe this was the firft intended meaning. Be- fides thefe two Courts is another final! one, where fome of the Pages Ipdge. I took notice of a large rough Jajpis ftone lying upon the ground, little regarded or obferved: it is about nine foot Diameters it was prefented unto the Emperour by the Archbiflhop of Saltzburg, whole Coun- try affordeth notable Quarries, and ftones of many forts ;

a

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a little piece of icpoIi(hed,afFordeth fine yellow, red, black, and white Veins. The Paface^pf the Count de Draw, and that which Count Rofhal hath lately built and nobly furniflied^ are very confiderable ; with many others.

There ate alfo many fair Churches , rich Convents, and Conventual Churches j as that of the' CaYmefitetS dr the Franciscans, of the BenediSines, of St* Nicholas ; In this Church I could not but take notice of the late Sepul- chral Monuments of Count Strozzi and Cardinal Ha - rack. The Dominican Convent is very fair* The gujiines have a large Church, in the middle whereof they have built a Chappel after the manner of the Holy Houfe a tLoretto', upon the top of which hang the Colours ta- ken from the Turfy and Tartars 9 many of which Enfigns are not fquare like ours, but made Efcucbeomwife, fome fil- led withCircles, wherein are expreffed half Moons* The Jefuites Colledges are large, who feldome fail of noble Convents, efpecially in places where they have fo good footing as in this. The Front of one of their Colledges openeth into a fair Piazza , in the middle whereof (lands a large and high ccmpofite Column of Copper uponaPe- deftal of white {tone, with four Angels with EfcucheonSs and on the top the bleflfed Virgin ; Infcriptions alfo, in which the Emperour dedicates yiujlria unto her Patro- nage and Tuition. In another Market-place, where the Town-houfe is, there is a handfome statua of Juftice in Copper.

I could not but obferve the Scotch Church and Cloy- fler, which gave alfo the name unto the Scotch Gate of the City, becaufe I fomewhat wondered how the Scots in old time fhould be fo confiderable in this place, but I found by Information , 2nd the Account of Lazius and Matthaus Merian in High' dutch, that this Convent was m

former

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former times a great Receptacle for the Scots in their long Pilgrimage unto Jerusalem , founded and endowed by Duke Henry the Firft, in memory of St. Gregory : and it may feemlefs flrange that the Scots (houid have a Convent here, and be numerous in thefe parts in former Ages , if we confider that St. Colman , one of the Saints of the greateft Veneration in this Country was a Scotchman , and fa id to be of the Royal Blood of Scotland , who, in his pafTage to Jerufalem was murdered by the Eaurs or Coun- try people at Stcckerau, four German miles from Vienna , and hanged on a Tree, where, as the Story goes, his Body remained uncorru'pted for a year and a half, and divers Miracles being affirmed of it, it was taken down, and honourably interred near Stocker an $ but by Meginhard Bifoop of Jichjiadt it was tranflated unto Me Ik , and af- terwards fent into Hungary and his Head kept a long time at Stullweij^enburg, or "jiUm Regalis, according to the Account which is here given of this Saint.

The Church of St. Peter is alfo confiderable , not for its Splendour but Antiquity , as being accounted the ol- deft in the City, landing in a place where in old time there flood an Altar in honour of Domitian , called Ara Flaviana . In this Church Jieth the Body of that famous and learned Perfon Wolfgangus Lazius, with this Epitaph or Infcription:

Magntfico Nohili ClariJJimo atjue fummd eruditione or- mtiffimo viro Domino Wolfgango Latzio Vien. Philofo - phis atquc Medicins Doltori dr Profeffori Primario , Ce- lehenimi Archigymnafn Viennenfis Retfori dr Superinten- dent Caefareo, dr ejufdem Sacra Caefarea? zTtfajeJl. Fer- dinand! SanttiJJima memoris Conjiliario dr Hifiortco Pe ritijjimo , default 0 Anno Domini MDLXXXVI*

In

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In the Church of the Gapucines Convent, are interred the Emperour and his Emprefs, and the En>

prefs Maria, wife to Ferdinand the Third, who out of their Devotion and Humility, chofe to be buried io a Church of this poor Order. And the Cap mines not ad-

mitting of Magnificent Monuments in their Churches, as in the Churches of other Orders, no Tombs are ereded worthy fo great an Emperour, and fuch bmprefies.

But the Cathedral Church of St. Stephen, contained divers Monuments of many Princes and Great Perfons, and is a large {lately Building , but fomewhat dark by reafonof the thick painted Glafs: not covered with Lead, but with Tiles of w ood, which is the only blemifli thereof, yet makes a good (how. The Steeple and Spire are very remarkable, as being high^ large, ftrong, and handfome. On the top or Weathercock-place of the Spire ftandsaCrofsunder a Star and half Moon, according ea the Figure I haveelfewherefet down, which the People think to be of Gold, orat leaft very well gilded : and in the time of Thunder and Lightning it looked pale and whitiflh.

They have this Account how theie came firft to be fet up in this place : That when Solyman the Magnificent be-* fieged Vienna , perceiving the Forces in the City to be obftinate, he had an intent to batter down the Steeple a- bout their ears : But fomeof the Baffa's and great Com- manders , advertifing him how unprofitable a bufinefs it would prove, and withal when he took the City, what an honour it would be unto him to have fuch a Noble Py~ ramid in his Dominions : He fent word into the Town, That he was willing to fpare the Steeple, upon condition that they would fet up the half Moon and Star (the T#r= kifh Arms) upon the top thereof. They returned An- fwer that they would , if he would fend the iame

unt©

(8® )

onto them , which he did , and they placed it where it ftandech.

This Spire hath the largeft Crockets I have obferved in any, they being above a yard long, and adorned with foliage work. The Spire of Landfhute in Bavaria , is accounted the higheft in Germany ; that of Strafburg the neateft and faireft ; and this of Vienna the largeft and ftrongeft. And therefore it is no wonder that when the Ambafladours of Befna formerly came unto Vienna , they fo often viewed and admired this Fabrick, and plainly faid that all themony in their Country was not fufficient to have built it.

This Steeple is accounted about four hundred fixty and five foot high, being about half way up three hundred and thirty eight fteps. Befides other Hills, I could fee Hamburger Hill within two miles of Prefburg, and a great part of jiujlria , which the long Courfc of the Da- nube rend red verypleafant and delightful unto the eye. In theChamber or Room from whence I had this proipefl-, there is a Clock, whole Cafe being of wood, was in part burnt down by Lightning , and therefore there is water always kept in this placeto extinguilh the fire, and a man continually watcheth in the place where the Bells hand. There is alio an Inftrument of wood, or wooden

Bells or Hammers, which they make ufe of from Good- friday till Eajier-funday, all the time that our Saviour was in the Grave, during which time they permi t no Bells to ring.

At one of the doors of the Church there is a Hone pla- ced in the wall, which is generally conceived to be one °f the ftones wherewith St.Stephen was ftoned. Itfeem- ed tome fome kind of pebble, and is worn andpolilhed by the hands of the people , who when they enter at that door, do touch it with their fingers* I was alfo flawed

one

(It)

one of the ftones which killed St, Steven at St. Sernine] or St. Saturnine's Church in I hclcufe in France , which isr aChurch abounding with Relique-Raiities, and where they alfo think they have the Bodies of fevrn of the A~ poftles, of St. George, of our King St. Edmund , and of forty Saints.

In this Church of St. Stephen, befides many Monu- ments of great Princes and famous Perfons, divers learn- ed men have Sepulchral Infcriptions ; as Johannes Faber Bijhop of Vienna ; Johannes CufpiniantM, and Sebaftiamss Fengnageltus , formerly Library- keeper , Hilloriogra- pher, and Counfellor to theEmpercur , an extraordina- ry learned man, and skilful in fifteen Languages , as the Jnfcription delivers 5 as Hebrew , Syriack 9 Chaldee , Perjian , Arabick , Turki(h$ zrflthiopkk 5 Greek ? Latin 9 Italian , French , Spanijh 5 German, Belgick and life'

The Univerfity of Vienna is alfo remarkable, if we confider the Antiquity thereof, the number ofSchclars^ their courfe of Srudies, their accommodations, privi* ledges and advancements. This is Paid to have been be- gun by Albertus the Third, above three hundred years part 5 and their Rules, Orders, and Statutes to have been borrowed from the Univerfity of Paris, and the Students were did inguifhed into four Divifions or Nations ; who, befides the General , have their particular Rules and Officers, and were comprehended under the Claffis of Auftrians 5 Nations of the Rhine , Hungarians , and Saxons,

In the Aujlrian Divifion were contained the Friulians , all of the Dtoccfe of all with the other Pro* vinces beyond the Mounta ns.

vian the Glafis of the R bine were comprehended Sue - * Jlfatians , Franconians , Hafians, 1 all the Pro*

M vinces

0»*>

winces to the South-weft, as France, Spain, Navarre , Holland , Brabant.

In the third Claffis , ot Nat io Hungariae, were contain- ed Hungarians, Bohemians , Polonium , Moravians , SW*- vonians, all that fpeak the Tongue^ and airo

Germans.

To the CUffis , or Natio Saxonum, were reduced 5W#- w , Weftphalians , Friflanders , Turingians , Mifnians * Brandenburgers , P ruffians. Livonians 5 Lujatians , Pome- ranians, with the Ultramarine Kingdoms of England , Scotland 3 Ireland , Sweden , Norway , and Denmark.

Thefe Diviftons take up all the Nations of Europe 5 and indeed there are Students hereof many Nations: and upon Contentions and Differences the feveral will

hold unto their own, and take parts, and bandy againft each other, but will all unite and hold together in differ- ences with Towns-men or Jews, which happen fome times unto an high degree.

They foilow here the old beaten way of Knowledge : and I tnet with few who had any good infight in new Pht- lopfhy ; but there are many good Philologers , and are well verfed in Languages, Hiftory and Antiquity : and there are many Learned Men either educated here, or come from other parts.Some who had taken notice of the Royal Socie- ty in London 5 were very inquifitive after it 5 and when I bad fatisfied them in a!! particulars, were very much pleafed therewith. If they flhould fall into the way of Experimental Philo fophy, being very induftrious, ’tisve- ry probable they may do much therein* and they were fare to have the countenance of the Emperour. I found them alfo much affefted with the EngUJh Society in other parts of Germany. At the Univerfity of Altorff I was much enquired of concerning it : and a Magiftrate of Nwnbmg , who had got a Telefcope from London, invited

me

(§3)

me to his Houfe, topra&ife the way of ufing it* Her Herr von Adkrfhelme of Leipficky a Perfon of great Cu~ riofity, was very inquifitive after the fame Society. And of late years the Curiofi of Germany have held Learned Con- ventions and Correfpondence, and printed their Obfer - vations at Leipfick. And fince my Return into England , I have been folicited from CaJJovia in Upper Hungary , to fend the 2 ranfatfions into thofe Parts*

During my (lay at Vienna , 1 went unto a publick Ana- tomy of a Woman that was beheaded : the LeElure lafted folong, that the Body, was Nineteen days unburied, it was performed by a Learned Phyfician, Dr. Wolfftregel , who read in Latin to the fatisfaftion of all perfons. What I moft particularly obferved therein was this3 The Pyra midal Mufcles very plain and larger the Uterus larger than is ufually obfer ved $ the Carlihgo Enfiformis double; the Lungs very black ; the Eye was very well fhown 5 he produced an artificial Eye of Ivory, and another large one of Paflboard and Paper, contrived and made by him- (elf; the Mufcles of the Pharynx, Larynx , Os Hyoides s and the Tongue , after their diffeftion , he reduced very handfomely into their proper places again, to (hew their natural fituation and pofition. The Anatomy-Theatre was of capacity to receive above an hundred perfons ; and according to the cuftome of other places, to avoid imper- tinent Speftators, a piece of Mony was given for admif- fion. Of Anatomy-Theatres , until of late, there have been few in Germany >or none. And when I was in the Anato- my-School at Altorjf , near Nnrenburg , that learned and ci- vil Profeffor, Dr. Mauritius Hoffmannus , told me that the fame was the Firft in Germany.

Paulas de Sorbait , Prime Profeffor, Phyfician unto £- leonora the Emprefs Dowager, and Knight of Hungary 3 was the Re&or Magnificat* Zwelfer3 who writ Animad «

M 2 verfions

f«4>

vtrfions upon the DiJpenfatorj/ of Aufiurg, was in great re- pute in Vienna^ and had built for himfelf a noble Houfe in the City, but he died fome time before my coming thi- ther*

In fine* the Tlniverflty is noble, their Advancements confiderable * their Priviledges greats and they have the power of life and death* from ancient and latter Concef- fions of their Dukes and Emperours,

But the greatefl: luftre unto Vienna is the Refidence of the prefent Emperour Leopold its ; he was born in the year 1638. he was Son unto the Emperour Ferdinand the Third • he was baptized by the Names of Leopoldus , lg* natm, Francifcus, Balthazar , Jafephus, Felicianus. His eldeft Brother Ferdinand 9 King of the Romans , died of the Small Pox in his Fathers time. His Brother Carolus Joftphus, Matter of the Teutonkk Order ± dyed 1662. He married Margarets Infanta of Spainy daughter unto King Vhilip the Fourth, whofe Children died Infants; a ver- tuous, affable, grave, and worthy Prince, and feeraed to me to live very happily herein the love and honour of his People, Soldiers, and Clergy.

His Perfon is grave and graceful 5 he hath the Aujlrtan Lip remarkably, his Chin long, which is taken for a good Pby ftognotnical mark* and a fign of a conttant, placid*and little troubled mind. He is conceived to carry in his Face the lineaments of four of his Predeceffours, that is, of Rudolpbus the Firft, of Maximilian the Firft,of Charles the Fifth* and Ferdinand the Firfir. He was very affefli- onateunto his Emprefs, who, though but young, was a modeft, grave Princefs, had a good afpeft, was zealous in her Religion* and an Enemy unto the Jews. He (hewed alfo great refpedt and obfervance unto the Emprefs Dow- ager Eleonora, who was a fober and prudent Princefs * weltskittedinall kind of curious Works, and delighted

fometimes

<&s)

fometimes to ffioot at Deer from a Stand, or at other Game, out of her Coach, He was alfo very loving unto his Sifters, beautiful and good Ladies ; whereof one, the eldeft, wasfince married unto that Noble Prince Michael Wifnowitzski, King of Poland.

He fpeaks four Languages, German 5 Italian, Spanijh , and Latin* He is a great countenancer of Learned Men, and delighteth to read , and when occafion permitted}, will pafs fome hours at ir* The worthy Petrus Lambe- clm his Library Keeper, and who is in great efteem with him, will ufuaily find out fome Books for him which he conceiveth may be acceptable. While I was there he re- commended a Tranflation of Religio ^Medici unto him , wherewith the Emperour was exceedingly pleafed, and fpake very much of it unto Lambecim , infotnuch that Lambecm asked me whether I knew the Author, he be- ing of my own name, and whether he were living: And when he underftood my near Relation to him, he became more kind and courteous than ever, and defired me to fend him that Book in the Original Englijh , which he would put into the Emperours Library / and prefented me with a neat little Latin Book, called Princeps in Com- pendio, written by the Emperours Father , Ferdimndm the Third.

He is alfo skilful in Mufick, compofeth well , and de- lighted much in it, both at his Palace and the Church , which makes fo many Muficians in Vienna *, for no place abounds more with them ; and in the Evening we feldoim failed of Mufick in the Streets, and at our Windows % And the Emperours delight herein makes the Church- men take the greater care to fee off their Church-mufick , for he goeth often to Church , and not to one, but divers, e- fpecially the beft Conventual Churches ; and in his own Chappel fome of his own CQmpofitions are often play’d*

OO

He hath alfo excellent Mufick in his Palace , both Vocal and Inftrumental ; and his private Chappel is well fer- ved, where befides the excellent Mufick, there are al- ways eight or ten Counts, Pages to the Emperour, who ferve at the Altar with white wax Torches in their hands 5 and after the manner of the Italian Princes, divers Eunuchs to fing.

For his Recreations abroad, he delighteth much in Hunting, efpecially of the wild Boar in due feafors ; I have known him bring home fix Boars ina morning. Some ftout perfons, particularly Count Nicholas Ser ini, would encounter a wild Boar alone, but at laft he unfortunately perilled by Qne, which hath made others more wary fince 5 and therefore when the Boar is at a Bay, the Huntf- men fo ftand about him, that the Emperour, or other great perfons, may more fafely make ufe of their Boar- fpears upon him*

Surely there are great numbers of them about the Country, for they are no unufual or extraordinary Dill in the City, though of a delicious and pleafing cafte* They feed upon Acorns, Beech-majl, and Chefnuts , upon the fpring or fprout of Broom , Juniper , and Shrubs , and up- on the roots of Fern, and will range into Corn-fields, and come out of Forrefts into Vineyards. The Huntf- men are notably verfed and skilful in that Game; for though they lee it not, they will diftinguilh a wild from a common Swine, and ghefs whether that which they hunt be Male or Female, old or young, large or .final!, fat or lean ; and this they chiefly conjefiure from their tread or foot, and the calling their hindfeet out of the track of their forefeet.

The Emperour being fo good a Huntfman, it is the lefs wonder that he is efteemed a good Hodman. Certain it is5 that he hath a very noble Stable of Horfes, procured

from

(%)

from all patts^Turkijb^ Tartarian Polonian, Tranjyhanim^ Saxon,Bohemian,HHngarianNAfkS'>&c and they are well managed ; and they ride than to the faiisfadion of the Beholders.

Having feen the Arfenal at Venice , the Stores at Chat- faant^ and the Naval Provisions at Jmfierdam , l ani not like to admire any other* efpeeially fo far from the Sea r and looked for nothing of that nature in this place. Not- wichft&nding I found an A'rfenal * and place for Naval VefTels to be fet out upon occafioo, and fome thereof were employed in the laft Turkijh war, when they at- tempted to deftroy the Bridge of Boats which the Turks had made over the Danube * a little above Gran and Bare * han. They are built fome what like Galleys , carry great Guns, and a good number of Souidiers, and will make a fight upon the broad deep dream of the Danube t and may be handfomely brought into the Town behind one of the Baftions, when the River is high ; and hereof there are fome at Rah and Komora , as I have declared elfewhere.

The Emperour hath many Counfellors, great Souidiers and Courtiers about him $ among which thefe feemed of greaceft Note.

Eufebins Wence flans Duke de Sagan , Prince Lob fa - mtz , Pirme Counfellor , Hoff-meifter , of the Or- der of the Golden Fleece 5 a perfon of a grave and fober Afpeft, fomewhat blunt in convention, but of a gener* ous temper, and free from all covetoufnefs, who fpent his Revenues nobly, and unto his great reputation : He was chief Favorite unto the Emperour* and though fome had no great opinion of his Abilities, yet he was the firft that discovered the laft Hungarian defefiion and revolt , whereby thofe Noble Perfons , Count Peter Serins and NadaJH (whom I faw at Vknna) were brought unto their ends*

Betirkm

Henrkus Gulielmus, Count of Stahrenberg , Ober-hojf Marefchal , or Lord Marjbalof the Court .

Johannes Maximilianus , Count of Lamburg , Obey ft - Rammer -Herr , or G#/*/ of the Chamber , a Perfon of great efteem. The Gentlemen of the Bed-chamber are numerous, and many are in extraordinary ; there may be an hundred of them, all Barons and Counts . Every one of them wears a Golden Key before his Breaft : and the Grooms of the Bed-chamber wear one of Steel : Two of each attend every Night*

Gundakems , Count Dietrichftein,Oberft-staIl-Meifier9 or Mafter of the Horfe .

Thefe are the Chief. Thefe following are alfo confi-

derable.

Count Sinzendorff, Oberfte-Jag-Meifter , Grand Vt* neur^ or Hunts- Mafter , a Perfon in good favour with tbeEmperour, who very much delighteth in Hunting, as have moft of his PredeceflTors.

The Count of Aver [berg Oberft Falken-Meifter , C&/// Falconer , who hath twelve Falconers under him.

The Count of Paar , Chief Mafter of the Emperours Foft ;

Leopoldus Wilhelmus , Marquifs of Baden , Captain of an hundred Hartfhires , who are the Horfe-guard , and ride with Piftols and Carabines out of the City ; but within Vienna they cary Launces and Javelins with broad points.

Francifcvs Auguftinus , Count of Wallenfteyn, Captain of an hundred of the Foot guards of a good Perfonage , and well efteemed of by the Emperour.

Sixty, or more, for the number is uncertain, and not limited 5, mod of them Counts and Barons .

Raymundusi Count de Montecucult, was his General, Prefident of the Council of War, Governour of Raband

the

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the Confines about it, and of tb e Order of ’the Golden Fleece y a tall Perfon, fomewhat lean, but bath a fpittit in his look : he is one of the oldeft Commanders in Europe , and performed good Service in Poland , Hungary , Ger- many in many places, and is efteetned a prudent, valiant, and fuccefsful Commander.

The Count de Sanches was a!fo a Commander of great Fame, and in high efteera with the Emperour. He was a Native of Rochelle \ he firft ferved the Swedes in the German wars, and was a Colonel, but upon fame difguft he forfook the Swedes, and ferved the lmperialijls , and was made Govern our of Brin, thefecond Town in Mo- ravia. After the taking of Cremhsm Juftria , General Torjlenfon befieged Brin , and fent word unto theGovern- our de Souches , That if he refufed to deliver up the Town he would give him no quarter. Who anfwered him. That he would not ask any, and alfo give none : and defended the place with fu£b refoiution, that after many AfFaults, Underminings, and Attempts by Granadd* s , Torjlenfon1 was forced to rife, after a Siege of four months, which was fp advantageous unto and the Imperial affairs,

that the Emperour took efpecial notice of him, made him a B<*r0*, andof his Privy Council . He commanded alfo all the Forces in Vienna, and did notable Service in the laft lurktjh wars. He took the City of Nitrapv Nitria „ not far from Strlgonium or Gran ; and took and flew fix thoufand Turks which were fent by the Vizier of Buda a* gaipft him : a worthy Perfon , and of a good Afpedh Cojunt Souches the younger his Son, an Heroick Com- mander,is Goverqour of the ftrong fortified place Leopold - Hadt by Freijladt, a Perfon of great Civility, unto whom I was much obliged.

. . .£$$$. Cpuat • Lefy who was fent

Apbgdfadour tqGonJantinofle to the Suit fin, from the Em-

^ perour,

(9°)

perour, is a Commander worthy of that efteem he hath with the Emperour; a Perfon of great Courage, Civility and Humanity, whichlmuft ever acknowledge.

The Courts of the Emprefs, and of the Emprefs Dow- ager, are filled with Perfons of Note; and there are a great number of Souldiers in this place of great Fame, as the Marquifs Fio , Sfork , Cops , and many more* Many of the Clergy and Men of Learning, are in good efteem with the Emperour ; but tb ejefuites <L "Milner and Bocca- bell* are his near Favorites* Many Strangers, both Soul- diers and Scholars, have built their Fortunes here* And Purely Strangers of parts and induftry, Jo they be of the Reman Churchy are not like to raife their Fortunes any where better than in thefe parts.

Though the Emperour goeth not to war .in Perfon, yet hath he been fuccefsful in his wars, efpeciaJly in thelaft Battel with theTurksat Sr. Gedart , where the bufinefs was bandfomly and aftively managed, to fee upon the body of the Turks, which had paffed the River before the whole Forces of the Vizier could come over, to the great Daughter of the Januaries and Turks, who fought ftout- ly, and were firft pur to a Retreat by the French Caval- ry. Foratfirfl the Turks feemed to prevail, and had flain a great part of two Regiments of the Auxiliaries which came out of Franconia^nd after their cuftome, had cut off their Heads.

Among the many notable things in Vienna, the Itnperi - al Library is very remarkable. He who hath feen the Bodleian Library at Ox ford , and the Vatican at Rome , would be much furprifed to find fuch a notable one here, as may compare with them ; efpecially upon the extreme Borders of the Learned part of Europe .

The number arid noblenefsof the Books doth much ex- ceed the receptacle or place which confaineth them, as

making

-* \

'I

(90

making no fair ffiew at the entrance, and fomewhat want- ing light* But as for the number and value of the Books* they are of opinion here that it yieldeth unto none , but rather excelleth any other Library in Europe. There was a place defigned for the building of a fit receptacle for them; bur, I know not how, a Theatre for Comedies is now built in that place*

ft is divided into eight Chambers or Rooms, which are fo well filled, that many Books are fain to lye upon the Floor 5 and the Shelves ftand foc'ofe, that there is but juft room topafs between them. The Manufcripts ftand diftindt from the printed Books, according to their Languages, being divided into fix Claffes , Theological , Juridical, Medical , Philo fopbical , Hifiorical , Philology cal. There can Pearce be a more admirable Colkdiion than the Manufcripts in part of the firft Chamber, of He- brew, Syriac J^, Arabic k, Turkijh, Armenian, zAEthiofick^ and Chinefe Books.

It was begun, at leaft the Books began to be placed in this receptacle, by ^Maximilian the Firft, but hath been much encreafed by fucceeding Emperours, moft of them, fine e Rodolpbus the Firft, being much addi&ed unto Learning, there having been large acceflions from many noble Libraries, and moll upon the coll of the Emper* ours. The cboiceft Books in the famous Library of Bit - da, of King ^Matthias Gorvinus , Son unto Huniades , are now in it. The norable Library of Wolfgangus La zius , who was Library- Keeper, was brought hither, and Three thoufand Books of Johannes Sambucus are now in this Repofitory*

Jugerius Bujbequius , fometime Library-Keeper hereof, added much unto it ; and in his two TurfyJIj Embaffies procured great number of noble Greek Manufcripts at Gonfiantinople^ which are inferibed with his own hand, r ad N 2 Aug.

(92)

'Jug. de Bufl>eck*emit GwftanwtoPoU- A great many were added from the Library of the Learned Johannes Cujpint • anus , Library Keeper, and Counfellor unto the Emper- our. The notable Libraries and Mathematical Inftru- ments of Tycho Brahe , Kepler , and Gaffendus , were pur- chafed for ir. But the larged acceffion was made by the noble Library of Count Fugger , which confiding of fix- teen thoufand Volumes , was purchafed by Ferdinand the Third. , Many were brought, fome few years pad, from the KAmbrrfun Library by Inftruck, by the Learned Pe- trus Lambtcius, Library Keeper, Hidoriograpber, and Counfellor unto the prefent Emperour^ who hath alfo an excellent Library which is like to be added unto the Imperial . he then reckoned the Volumes in this great Library to amount at lead to Fourfcore thoufand; and by this time that number may be increafed, for he ad- deth fome yearly. And. the number might almoft be endlefs, if they would make ufe of their priviledge, for theEmperour loath a right to have two Books of all that are printed in Germany .

They have alfo a great advantage at Vienna , to acquire good Manufiripts from the Turkijh Dominions , for the Emperour is obliged to have a Refident w ith the Grand Signor wherefoever he moveth or ordereth him to bejeven at the lad fight of St. Godart , the Emperour’s Refident was in the JurkiJbC amp. And when I was at Lariffa in Thejjaly , the Refident Signor diCafa Nova , was inquifi- tive after Books to be found among the Greeks in Mona- fteries and other places. And this Emperour , like his Father, will fpare no cod toward fuch Acquiries.

By the efpecial favour .of my noble Friend Lambecmy I went many times into this Library * and he was fo cour- teous as to Jet me have what Books I defired unto my pri- vate Lodging t He^ would flaew me divers Books upon

what

(93)

what Subjeft I required, and offered me a fight of what Books he thought rare and eft unable ; and amongft others I could not but take notice of thefe following.

A Letter of the prefent Emperour of China, in the Chinefe and Tartarian Languages > unto the prefent Em* perour of Germany , weaved in a very fine Roll.

Another old Roll written in unknown Letters, yet a little refembling the Greek ♦

A Book^'in the Runick Language.

A very fair ^lanufcript of Ptolemy , with the Mapps drawn in Colours.

The oldejl Manujcript and true Exemplar of Livie , in large Letters, without diftindion of Words or Sentences , very uneafie to be read , a thoufand years old , and brought, not many years fince, from the Library near Injpruck.

An old fair Greek Manujcript of Diojcorides, written eleven hundred years fince, in very large Letters, w itbout diftance of Words , or Accents, wherein ail ch e Plants are lively painted ; alfo the Figures of Diofcoridcs , Galen , Pamphilus , Cratevas, and other ancient Phyjicians, bought of a Jew at Constantinople for an hundred Ducats by Eufi bequius.

A Book of Geometrical Proportions demonftrated in the China Language.

Another fair one in the China Tongue with Pi- ctures.

A noble old Greek Manujcript in great uncial Letters , without flops, points, or diftance of words.

An ancient Greek Manujcript of the Book^o f Genefis , in large Letters, without diftance or accents, thirteen hun- dred years ago; wherein are Forty eight Pictures or Draughts in Miniature or Water colours, much conducing to the knowledge of ancient Habits, the manner of Feajl-

**g*

04)

ifigy poftures at Meals f waiting of Servants and Muficol Injlruments: Wherein I could not but take notice of the Golden Spot upon Jofephs breaft ; and the manner of the Execution of Pharaoh*s Baker , his Head being put through a forked piece of wood , and his Hands tyed behind him.

A fair Book of Albert Durer , wherein are many fine Paintings in Miniature or Limning ; as alfo a Sphere , and within ic a Globe carved and painted by him.

A fair Book of Michael Angelo^ wherein, befides many rare things in Architecture, are all the paintings and de - figns of the Belvedere in little.

A fair Alcoranin Arabick, interlined with the 7 urfyfb to explain it.

The Bible in the Goptick and Perfian Languages.

Luther s own Bible , marked with his own Hand i and interlined by him with Notes in ma.ny places.

A fair Greek Manujcript of the Nevp lejlament , fifteen hundred years ago written in Letters of Gold upon Pur- ple.

Ther$ was a\fo a Magical Glafi, obtained by the Em- perour Rodolphus , whereby to fee Apparitions , and con- verfe with Spirits ; which fome conceive to be the fame* or of the like nature with that ufed by Kelly.

Of ancient Greeks Roman, and Gothick Medals and Coyns , in Gold, Silver, and Copper , to the number of fix- teen rhoufand. Among the Copper Coyns they pretend to have two of the Emperour Marcus Otho .

I let fall fome Drops into this Ocean , adding fome €oyns. Intaglio* s} and Inscriptions not to be found in that large work of Gruterus ; which having found in the Em- perours furthefl: Dominions and Tnrkijhpansy long out of his pofTeffion, where there had been no great enquiry af- ter them ; were iffcewed unto his Imperial Ma jefty by Pe- trus

(95)

trus LmbcciuS) and fo well accepted by him, that hefaid I might have the ufe of what Books I de fired ; and at my return into England he gave me a formal Pafs in Latin for my fafe Travel, and that myTrunksor Goods might not be fearched, which takes off a great deal of trouble in pafling fo many Principalities and free Cities , Command* ingall in his own Dominions and Requeuing all Princes in Germany to favour me, and permit me to pafs freely without moleftation; It was thus Subfcribed ,

Leopoldus Gulitlmus Comes in Kinigfeggs.

Ad mandat um Sacr. Cafi Majejlatis proprinm Better*

The Rarities of the great Duke of Tufcany , Thelrar- fure of Loretta , Ss Mar 4, St. Denis in France , of the Duke of Saxony at Drefden, and others, were very fa- tisfaftory to me. Yet having a fair opportunity, 1 would not leave Vienna without a fight of themoft noble Trea~ fury or Repojitory of his Imperial Majefty ; efpecially ha- ving heard fo much thereof, and knowing it to be the Collection of many fucceeding Emperours. I therefore took a fit opportunity to remain divers hours in it, and was extremely delighted with the rich and magnificent Curiofities thereof. To fee down all I fa w, were a work too large for this Volume ; and the Catalogue of them * which is kept in this place, taketh up a large Volume in Folio* I fhall therefore only mention theft following 5

where-

C?6)

whereby feme conjefture may be made of the reft.

In the firft Cupboard or Cafe were many noble Veflfels* turned and lhaped out of Ivory , a Cup turned by the Emperours own Hand ; another turned by Ferdinandus the Third* Gallant Cups of timber ; Spoons and Veffels of Mother of Pearl ; many noble works in Coral j a fine Galley in Ivory > and Cups made out of Rbinocerot's horn.

In the fecond,

An Elephant of Ivory with a Cajlle upon his back, and over the Cajlle a Ship, with much other fine work in the fame piece* Two fair Pillars of Ivory ; good Baffo Re- lievo in Ivory 5 a fair Cranium or Deaths- bead 9 and much other variety of Ivory work. A Pifture in Oyl of Ga- nimede , by Corregio .

In the third,

A fine Picture of an old Man's head in Oyl by Albert Dureri great Variety of Watches and Clock -vcor\ in Sil- ver : a fine Centaur in silver , which is a curious Watch .

In the fourth.

More Watches and Clock-work ; a gallant Ship oi Silver, a Triumphal Chariot, a Turk riding apd attended, a Globe and a Sphere in Silver , a curious Landslip in Oyl by Cor - regio, a Cupid by the fame hand, with a fine Copy of it.

In the fifth,

A curious Filigrane Handkerchief , and two fair File* graneVlatesbxox\$ti.outofSpainby the Emprels Mar- garita 3 an Indian Basket of an Indian fort of Filegram mixed with Birds > a Bafon of Agate finely wrought with filver Craw fifhes in it.

t To

(97) to-tfee fixth,

Is contained a ftrange Collection of Intaglie and old Ro- man Stones , admirable for their work and Jargenefs. A large Agate whereon is wrought theHiftory of that Victory which Augufius Gafar obtained over the Dalmatians and Pannonians in the ninth year of our Lord ; about five inches long, and four broad, highly valued.

An Onyx with the Head of Alexander and Olympia.

A Shell with a Battel carved in it.

A Chain with the Heads of all the Aafirian Family.

A Dog in a very large Sardonyx,

In the feventb,

A noble Head in Oyl by Hans van Ach. The Head of Maxi mill anus the Firft in Plaijler, with a lock of his own Hair. Mother of Pear I m many fbapes. Fine Baf kets, and the twelve Cm far's Heads.

In the eighth, moft of Chryfial,

A noble Veffel about a yard and half high, made out of one piece of Chryfial , An Urne. The Head of the Emprefs. A fair Dragon ♦ The Head of the Queen- Mother of France. A Chryfial in which the Picture of our Saviour may be feen thrice one way, and once another way*

The ninth of Chryfial alfo,

A noble Eveer- A fair Veffel of very clear Chryfial , lately bought. A large Head. Fair Crofjes, and other Varieties.

The tenth of Gold and precious Stones.

Five Crowns. The Imperial Crown ; rich in Jewels , and hath a very large blew Saphir on the top* A Model of that Crown with which the Emperour is crowned , much

O richer

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richer than the Original* A “Paragon Diamond of feven- teen Carats and a half Very large Rubies. A Scepter of Unicorns horn , fet with rich Stones. A of the

greateft Diamonds. A magnificent Scefter , Globey Crofl, and Crown, which coft feven hundred thoufand Crowns. An O^/ bigger than my hand, as it was take*! out of the Mine ; and many other fair Opals , A very large Emerald A S^//> in an Emerald . A fair Ring-Dial.

The eleventh of G^.

A noble £4^# ufed at the Baptifm of the Aujlrian Fa* mily . Scepters, ScimetersyKnives, and other rich Pr*- fents ham the Turfa Three rich Dog-Collars , fent with three out of England , with this Mark on them DC DC* A large lump of pure Gold, as it was taken out of the Mine, as broad as my hand. A fair piece of Gold Ore , wherein the pure Gold fhooteth upon a white Stone . Divers great Bafons of Gold and Coral.

In the twelfth*

Veffels of JaJpis, Agate, Lapis Lazuli, Oriental Gran dies, §ups of Onyx, Sardonyx. Large ones of Lapis Nefhriti - ms a and a great one of an methyfi .

In the thirteenth.

A large high Veffel of Bohemian Topaz. Flowers well made out of precious Stones* A Cup of an Hungarian Dia- mond. A piece of Ambergreece as big as a mans head,fent from the Grand Signor* A noble jf afpis-Jlone. A large Stone of Agate on the outfide, and a bed of large J.me~ thyjls .naturally in it in the middle, which is an extra* ordinary andpleafint Rarity,

la the reft,

Noble Chrysolites , Jacynths , Oriental Granates, Beryls or Aquamarines. The notable rich Smaragdus , or

or a Cup out of thatSV<?#r. Three great ones ha~ viog been already taken out, valued at three hundred tboufand Crowns, A Picture in Oy/ of the little King Uladijlaus Lokyh, King of Hungary . Tee rich Turkijh Saddles with Furniture for Horfes, fet with fair Turcots Stones 4 A great number of Go/d' fVjj/eZf and fine Figures in Coral, Turkijh Knives, Gauntlets, and Table men of Gold. Delicate Pictures in Wfo#. Very large Bezoar- (tones. In- dian-gold Cards and Counters ♦ A vaft Medal of the £#5?- for ours Arms, weighing two thoufand two hundred D«- otf/, or a thoufand pounds Englijh. A Cup out of Solo- mons Temple . Fair Amber* Rare Inlaying in fTW.

and other St atm's out of a very high Rhinoceros' s horn. A fine Figure of the Mountain Vefuvius. Jewels with black Feathers given by the Turkifh AmbaJSadours . A notable Figure of a lean Skeleton Priejt , who lived fo four years. A noble Cabinet-clock with large motions. A fair £4/0# and Ewer of carved King Philip the

Second of Spain in Diamond Armour, fet in Gold . A neat Picture of an old Man courting a young Woman , with this

JrCtum Annulum negejtato .

A (wallowed by a Peafant near Prague , which was nine months in his £*<w*I^,and fafely cut out 1 602. The like happened alfo to a perfon in PrimayA which Daniel Becker hath written a peculiar Trad under this Title, De Cultrivoro Pruffiaco. A fair Crucifix of Pearl. Indian Pictures made of Feathers. The King of Sweden , Gufta- vus Adolphus's Buff coat in which he was killed at the Bat- tel of Lvt&en. Till/s Sword. An Angel in Ivory with

O 2 Hair

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Hair and Clothes of Filegrtme of Gold. A neat Crucifix of Wood by Albert us Durer , Two very large Looking-

glajfes with the Frames of Silver * All the GcJJels writ- ten and painted. Many brave Status's and Figures e- very where. The Head of Charles the Firfr King of Eng- land, in white Marble * A Pedijlalof Amber, over which a Groff. The Head of Sc. Valerius Bifhop of Triers. The Picture of St. Katherine of Sienna , d\ awn by Sigifmund King of Poland. APiftureof the Emperour as hegiveth Audience , to be looked upon through a little round hole. A neat Table of Inlay9 d Stone made by the prefent Emprefs Dowager Eleonora . A Nail of our Saviour *s

Groff almoftafoot long; our saviour* s Blood $ and two Thorns of his Crown, the one whiter than the other. Prteffs Garments covered all over with large Pearl . The great and high efteemed Agate Dijh , between three and four fpans Diameter, with X R ISOS naturally in it. Unto which one applied that of St* Luke, Dica vobis quia fi hi tacuerint, lapides clamabunt ,

Unto which magnificent Rarities there is one more added, the noble of Pearlof eight yards long, ta- ken from the Graff T}k&ly in the late Hungarian war, as I underftand fince my Return.

I went unto divers noted Places about Vienna : I walk- ed unto the Hill of Vienna, two Englijh miles diftant from the Town, going up all the way by an eafie Afcent 3 from whence I had a profpeftof the City5and the Campagnia about ir, together with the high Mountains in Steirmark covered with Snow : and in my return faw the Palace of theEuiprefs Dowager without the Town, called la Favo- rita , and palled by the Convent of the Paulint.

About two Englijh miles Eaftward from Vienna , there is a very noble Garden-place belonging to the Emperour, built by Rodolphus the Second, which hath been formerly

well

(roi)

well furnifhed, and provided with Plants, but now feems to be neglefled, and fomewhat ruinous. It confifieth of an inward and an outward fquare Garden : The inward is two hundred ordinary paces fquare, aboutthefame big- nefs with the Place Royal at Paris i It hath a Portico or Cloyjler , fupported by Forty Pillars of white Stone on each fide, and is covered with Copper $ as are alio the Pavilions which the common people think to be Gold. Befides this, there is ah handfome row of Buildings well feated, called ItieW’gabm , in which at ptefent are many wild Beads kept. Lions aod Tig^es b;eed here, and have y oungones* Some fay this was the place of Solymm the Magnificents Tent when he befieged Vienna*

There isalfo, about two or three miles from Vienna^ a noted place of Devotion, called Arnols , much frequen- ted, efpecially in Lent, divers carrying Croffes very heavy all the way upon their fhoulders. There is here a httleHoufe built exaftly after that of the Sepulchre at Jerufaiem$ and alfoa handfome Copy of the Pidure of our Saviour and the V irgin Mary, with their exad heights That of our Saviour is about two yards high j that of the blefTed Virgin three or four fingers breadth lower : Thefe are taken from the Original in St.Johnde Lateran at Rome. Hither the Emprefs defired to go one morning from her own Palace on foot, out of Devotion, which fhe perform- ed, though with a great deal of difficulty , fhe being not ufed to walk , and the way was dufty. The Emperour accompanied her, and all the Court followed on footr which made a handfome fhew.

Nearer unto Vienna there is alfo a remarkable place for Devotion, called Itzing: and in the way from Vienna unto it, the twelve Stai ions of theCrofsare marked cut in imitation of what isobferved near Jerufalem , in the VkCrmSj ovDolorofa , in our Saviours proceeding from

the

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the Gity unto Mount Calvary \ the Figures thereof are printed, and the feveral paces between every Station fet down. The Emperour hath a handfome Park near Vien- na, called th zBrater, wherein I beheld theeffefis of the great Lightning and Thunder which happened three daysbefore, upon many great Trees which were torn , fplic, or twifted. There is a Houfe of Pleafure in it, where among other things, I could not but take notice of a Mufical Inftrument which I had not feen before , a sea or Chepdrum 5 it hath a Cord like that of a Sea-trumpet? but fouodeth like a Kettle-drum ,

I wentalfo unto haxambourg, whither the Emperour often retired} ; he hath a Houfe in this place, but it is old, and not large. There is alfo a Houfe of Pleafure in the Mote.into which there is no ocher pafTage but through a high Corridor e. The Caftle is commodioufly feated for the Emperours recreation ; and there is an eight-fquare Houfe in the Marjb , from which the Nobility and the Emprefs Dowager fometimes ufed to Choot,Che being very expert therein. Over the Gate of the Emperours Houfe hangs a great Rib and Jaw-bone, whereof I could get no better account, then they were the Rib and Jaw-bone of a heathen- maid. They feemed to me to be Bones of an Elephant But many things that areold or obfcure, they call, in this Country, Heathen:asi?o?w4^Coyns, they call Heathen mony. And the Peafants brought me , in a place which had been formerly an old Roman Station, part of the bit of a Bridle digged up, which they concluded to be a Heathen Key, From hence I went unto Maanerfdorjf , feated not far from the River Leyta, where there is a natural^ Bath , called th etvildekath] it arifeth under a Church, the Church being built over the Spring-head. The water of it is but Lukewarm, and therefore when they defire it hotter, they boy 1 it, and fo bathe in Tubs in a large room.

From

(log)

From that Subftance which fticketh to the fides of tffe Coppers-in the boy ling- of it, they judge it to be impreg- nated with S'uifhur , Saltpeter , and Chalk. The water colours the (tones, and makes them look, when wet, like fine Turquiifes. And the vapour of the Bath hanging up- on the Mofs on the Tides, gives it an Amber or Gold co* lour. The Phyficiansof Victim have given a good ac- count concerning the ufe of thefe Baths in High-dutch. Mot far from hence is a noted Quarry of Stone , out of which a great part of Vienna is built. The Stones being large they cut and fquare them at the Quarry.

From hence 1 proceeded to the Netvjidler-fea or Lake,, fo called from Newfidle, which is a Town feared upon the Northern part of it, confiding of one fireet and foroe back=houfes,andafmaH, fquare, old Caftle upon a Hill, from whence I had a good propped; over the Lake. 1 1 is about three German miles broad, and feven miles long. The faired Lake in thefe parts, affording plenty of Fifh ; encompaffed and thickly fet about with fmall Towns and Villages; and hath no River, at lead not confiderable , running into or out of it. A little way from the Gate of Nervjidle they dig out a black earth, out of which they make Salt peter. In this Journey, not far from Himburg , we paffed by a place called Raudyeard, which, though ic ' feems not high, looks over a great pare of Juftria. and as far as Erin, thefecond City of Moravia , a part alfo of the Kingdom of Bohemia, and a part of the Kingdom of Hungaria. I went afterwards four English miles up the Stream of the Danube , to fee a noted Quarry of Stone in a Hill called Jltenburg. The beds, rows , or cafes of the Stones lye not horizontally , but rather elevated Northward, about the height of the Angle forty, yet are not always fo regularly placed, but rather follow the Ihape of the Hill , and according to that are differently

fit uated.

(i°4)

fituated. Here I alfo obferved a Subftance between a Clay and a Stone called Leberjlein, or Liverftone ; and upon many of thefe Stones I found the figures of Trees and Leaves5though not fo deep or neat as upon the Stones by Florence ; yet very prettily marked, and often with broader Leaves than l had elfewhere obferved. I pafTed forward to Clofter-Neuburgy a Town mod of it belonging to that notable rich Monastery feared here, founded by St* Leopoldus Marquefs of Aujlria,and fince much enriched by fucceeding Donations*

Matthaus Merian hath a goodcut oftheProfpeft of the Danube here abouts, and in what manner it paffetfc down- wards between the two great Hills of Kalenburg and Bifn- burg. Upon one Peak of Kalenburg live divers Carnal- dulenfes , of an Order the mod fevere of any, living mod upon Roots and Herbs, in the manner of Hermites, Near their Cells they had paved the ground with thole Stones I mentioned, which were naturally marked with the Chapes of Trees and Plants.

After an open Autumn there followed a flharp Winter at Vienna , in the months of December and January. The branches of the Danube were foon frozen over.The main Stream, by reafon of itsfvvift Currenr,held out longer,but was afterwards alfo frozen. Some have thought that this River is more apt to freez than others. And we read of Battels which have been fought upon this River frozen ; but I could not make any regular Obfervation thereof. This hard weather the ground being covered with Snow, afforded handfbme Recreations untomen, andfome unto the Ladies, in running Courfes in handfome Sleds and Devices upon the Snow. Their Sleds were well contrived in the Chape of Gryphins , ligers , Swans , Scallop Shells , Dolphins , Peacocks, and the like Guriofities, carved, paint- ed, and gilded. The Lady fits in one of thefe, richly ha- bited

bited in Velvet, lined with rich Furrs, fet off with Lace and Jewels, in a Velvet Gap lined with Sables. The Sled is drawn by a Horfe, dreffedupwith Feathers of all co- lours, and Bells hanging about him, a pair of Stags horns behind his head, Ribbons and other Ornaments : one or more Pages ride by on Horfe-back with Torches in their hands. And after this manner they perform their Courfe upon the frozen Snow about the /free is of Vienna, in the night, with good fpeed one after another. A Gentleman fits behind the Lady and guides the Horfe. But the Froft breaking up put an end to thefe Recreations. The Froft began and ended here the fame day that it began and end- ed in England.

The Feftivity of chriflmas was obferved much after the fame Manner, Ceremonies, and Solemnities as in Italy, On Chrifimai-day the Emperour dined publickly, attend- ed with many Nobles and great Perfons, and three re- markable low Dwarfs. Upon St. Stephens-day he went to the Cathedral of Sf. Stephen , and went up to the Altar, kneeled, and kiffed the Plate whereon the Hoftia had lain. At the Epiphany or Twelfth-tide, the old cuftome of choo- fing King and Queen was obferved at Court.Count Lejley happened to be King, the Emperour laid the Cloath , and the Emprefs filled out Wine, together with other old Cuftomes.

Before chrifimaa there was extraordinary mirth and jollity at the Court upon occafion of a Marriage: For Count Seratt, Governour of Gratz in Styria, married a natural Daughter of Philip the Fourth , King of Spain , which was obferved with many noble Solemnities and Bravery. And the Nobility and Ladies were fo fub- ftantially fplendid, that I was much furprifed there- at.

P

This

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This was followed by a Funeral Solemnity for the Count of Draun , who was Colonel of the Forces in Vienna, and who had one of the nobleft Houfes in the City; his Corps was brought out of Italy, and interred in the Dominican Church, where he formerly built a very fair Altar, there was raifed for him a Cajlrum Do- Uric, handfomely contrived and fee round with white Wax Torches and Candles.

While I was in Vienna, the Emprefs Margarita was delivered of a Daughter , which was Chriftned by the Name of Maria , Antonina, Jofcfha, Benedict a, Rofalia , Petronella, but fire lived not many months. When the Emprefs came abroad, fhe brought the Child to the Au- gufiines Church, where Cardinal Carlo Carajfa, the Pope’s Nuncio, received it, blefled it, and laid it upon the Altar.

During my flay here, the El eft ion was in readinefs for